文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月11日
Climbing hydrangea (hydrangea anomala petiolaris) provides all of the beauty of a traditional hydrangea bush, but in a trailing variety used to add visual interest to walls or fences. Native to Asia, this hydrangea species yields flowering deciduous vines and is best planted or transplanted in the late spring. A true climber, hydrangea anomala petiolaris contains holdfasts (suckers) on its branches, allowing it to scale structures without the use of a trellis.
Climbing hydrangea plants grow very slowly and may take up to three to five years just to reach the flowering stage. That said, once the plant is established, this eye-catching centerpiece can reach a height of 50 feet or more at maturity, and produce fragrant, lacy white flowers all summer long. However, be careful where you plant it, as all parts of hydrangea plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.1
Common Name Climbing hydrangea
Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Family Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 30 to 50 ft. tall, 5 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4–8 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats1
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Hydrangea vines are often trained to grow up the side of houses, fences, pergolas, or trellises, or over the top of a garden arbor. Because the vines grow to become large and heavy, it's important to make sure that the host structure can support the plant's weight, and that you prune it seasonally.
Climbing hydrangea can also be maintained in shrub form or used as a ground cover, as it takes root wherever the suckers make contact with the ground. Cultivating the plant in this way makes for a decorative garden floor and also cuts down on weed growth.
Light
Climbing hydrangea grows best in full sun to part shade. However, unlike other flowering vines, this variety can tolerate quite a bit of shade, especially in hot climates where they actually prefer at least partial (or even full) shade at some point in the day. In sunny regions, make sure your plant is consistently and adequately watered. One note: Any hydrangea exposed to full sun will bloom more vibrantly and fully than one that experiences a lot of shade.
Soil
Plant your climbing hydrangea in garden beds that contain rich, moist soil with good drainage. Depleted beds may need amending with a nutrient-dense compost before planting or transplanting. Climbing hydrangea isn't particular about its soil pH level but will grow and bloom best in a mixture that is slightly acidic in nature. In order to help maintain moisture in the soil (and to curb overwatering), maintain a 3-inch layer of mulch around the root zone seasonally.
Water
Similar to other hydrangea plants, climbing hydrangea likes its soil consistently moist. In fact, the Greek root hydr- in the name refers to "water," while angeon comes from the Greek word "vessel." The plant needs to receive at least one inch of water weekly (either by rain or traditional watering methods), and can sometimes require more if the weather is especially hot or dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Climbing hydrangea plants do well in temperate climates, but they don't like hot and humid conditions. The plant can be damaged easily by intense sun and prefers daytime temperatures that hover around 70 F, and night temperatures around 60 F. Additionally, climbing hydrangea vines will only set buds if they experience at least six weeks of temperatures below 65 F. Lastly, a sudden frost can damage buds, impeding your plant's flowering the following year.
Fertilizer
Climbing hydrangeas are considered "low maintenance" when it comes to fertilizing. In fact, you can usually just let your plant be for the first three years. After that, fertilize it in the spring before the leaves begin to bud, only if you are noticing issues with yellowing leaves. If so, use a 10-10-10 product at just below the suggested amount on the label. Fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will also help create beautiful blooms. In the late summer or fall, make sure to spread a 1-inch layer of compost around your plant, topped with an inch or two of mulch.
Types of Climbing Hydrangea
The Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is the most common variety of climbing hydrangea. It yields white flowers and has excellent frost and heat tolerance.
The Miranda variety has variegated leaves that are part yellow and part green. One of the more decorative varieties, Mirandas can grow up to 50 feet tall and 6 feet wide.
The Silver Lining climbing hydrangea produces silvery-grey variegated leaves. This variety is finicky, however, preferring partial shade over full sun or full shade.
The Flying Saucer variety is known for its inflorescences that resemble flying saucers. These showy white blooms look fabulous against their backdrop of bright green foliage.
Pruning
Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom, but it's worth the wait for the years of enjoyment they bring. Start out with the largest plants possible—of course, you will pay extra at the garden center for larger plants—and prune only the dead and damaged branches each year, in late spring or early summer. Once the plant is established, climbing hydrangea grows vigorously and may need summer pruning or shaping to your liking.
Cutting and drying hydrangea flowerheads is a favorite pastime for seasoned gardeners. Once dry, climbing hydrangea flowers turn reddish-brown, and the heads can be used in crafts, dried bouquets, or incorporated into a dried arrangement for the home.
Propagating Climbing Hydrangea
Propagate climbing hydrangea in May or June by taking a cutting from the stem of an established plant. Propagating an already thriving hydrangea offers a way to shape and prune your existing garden treasure, while also assuring any additional plants will maintain the same look. Climbing hydrangea is simple to propagate and transplant with a few trusty supplies. Here’s how:
Gather your sharp garden shears, an alcohol wipe, potting soil, rooting powder, a potting tray, clear plastic wrap, small plant stakes, and a spray bottle.
Wipe your shear blades with alcohol. Select a healthy green stem without buds. Cut a stem 3 to 5 inches long, making your cut 2 inches below the leaf node and high enough on the stem so that you don't encounter the woody part.
Use your shears to carefully remove all but the top two leaves on the cutting. If you damage the stem, discard it and start over with another cutting.
Prepare a potting tray with potting soil that contains a mixture of loam and perlite.
Dip the end of your cutting in your rooting powder and stick it into a prepared hole in the moist soil.
Cover your planting with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, and use plant stakes to support it. Place your tray in an area that receives low light and maintains a stable temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Mist the soil regularly with a spray bottle.
In one month, your cutting should begin to root. At this point, expose it to the morning sun for a few weeks by taking it outside, and then bringing it back in.
Plant your cutting in your garden bed in the spring, once temperatures have warmed.
How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed
Growing climbing hydrangea from seed involves filling a pot with soil and placing the seeds on top (not buried beneath). Keep the soil moist and place your pot in a sunny window. In approximately 14 days, your seeds will germinate. When you begin to see shoots, it's safe to transplant your seedling into your garden bed when spring temperatures become warm.
Overwintering
Make sure to water your climbing hydrangea up until the bitter end of the season. These plants need a good drenching before going to sleep for winter. Once the ground has frozen, dress the base of the plant with manure or another organic compost mixture, as this will provide the plant with nutrients come spring. (In warmer zones, you can add compost when the weather starts to cool.) Next, apply a substantial layer of hardy mulch to keep the plant's roots warm. Decorative mulch will work, as will straw, hay, or fallen leaves.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Climbing hydrangea faces similar issues to those of traditional hydrangea plants. Because of the density of the foliage and blooms, this variety can become afflicted with mildew and leaf spot. As for pests, you may spot signs of spider mites, scale, and aphids, all of which can be treated with a mild insecticide or, a non-toxic alternative, neem oil.
How to Get Climbing Hydrangea to Bloom
Climbing hydrangea is an exercise in patience, as the foliage will grow with abundance long before the plant flowers. Once established, assure summer blooms by pruning your hydrangea in late June or July, as new blooms will develop on the prior year's branches. Cutting in the fall, winter, or spring may cause you to snip off buds before they would otherwise flower.
Common Problems With Climbing Hydrangea
Once a mature vine has covered a surface, cracks in the surface can develop and become difficult to see or access for repairs. Also, the weight of the vines may loosen surfaces like shingles, siding, and clapboard, and you won't be able to access the surface to paint it without massive pruning. Lastly, vines on a house may also grow into areas like gutters, making regular maintenance a problem. Sufficient pruning can control this, but it can be difficult to do so on a multistory home.
FAQ
How long can climbing hydrangea live?
Climbing hydrangea can live for up to five years in the right conditions and with proper care, like ample watering, afternoon shade, and mid-summer pruning.
What is the difference between climbing hydrangeas and false hydrangea vine?
Climbing hydrangea yields only white and off-white flowers, whereas false hydrangea vine comes in many different colors. Also, climbing hydrangea has four-petaled flowers dispersed around non-showy reproductive structures. False hydrangea vine has single sail-like bracts for flowers, instead.
Why is climbing hydrangea considered a four-season plant?
Climbing hydrangea looks great in all four seasons. In the spring, the bright green foliage climbs walls and trellises. In the summer, abundant lacy blooms proliferate. In the fall, the glossy leaves turn yellow with the change of seasons. And in the winter, the shedding bark adds texture to barren gardens.
Climbing hydrangea plants grow very slowly and may take up to three to five years just to reach the flowering stage. That said, once the plant is established, this eye-catching centerpiece can reach a height of 50 feet or more at maturity, and produce fragrant, lacy white flowers all summer long. However, be careful where you plant it, as all parts of hydrangea plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.1
Common Name Climbing hydrangea
Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Family Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 30 to 50 ft. tall, 5 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4–8 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats1
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Hydrangea vines are often trained to grow up the side of houses, fences, pergolas, or trellises, or over the top of a garden arbor. Because the vines grow to become large and heavy, it's important to make sure that the host structure can support the plant's weight, and that you prune it seasonally.
Climbing hydrangea can also be maintained in shrub form or used as a ground cover, as it takes root wherever the suckers make contact with the ground. Cultivating the plant in this way makes for a decorative garden floor and also cuts down on weed growth.
Light
Climbing hydrangea grows best in full sun to part shade. However, unlike other flowering vines, this variety can tolerate quite a bit of shade, especially in hot climates where they actually prefer at least partial (or even full) shade at some point in the day. In sunny regions, make sure your plant is consistently and adequately watered. One note: Any hydrangea exposed to full sun will bloom more vibrantly and fully than one that experiences a lot of shade.
Soil
Plant your climbing hydrangea in garden beds that contain rich, moist soil with good drainage. Depleted beds may need amending with a nutrient-dense compost before planting or transplanting. Climbing hydrangea isn't particular about its soil pH level but will grow and bloom best in a mixture that is slightly acidic in nature. In order to help maintain moisture in the soil (and to curb overwatering), maintain a 3-inch layer of mulch around the root zone seasonally.
Water
Similar to other hydrangea plants, climbing hydrangea likes its soil consistently moist. In fact, the Greek root hydr- in the name refers to "water," while angeon comes from the Greek word "vessel." The plant needs to receive at least one inch of water weekly (either by rain or traditional watering methods), and can sometimes require more if the weather is especially hot or dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Climbing hydrangea plants do well in temperate climates, but they don't like hot and humid conditions. The plant can be damaged easily by intense sun and prefers daytime temperatures that hover around 70 F, and night temperatures around 60 F. Additionally, climbing hydrangea vines will only set buds if they experience at least six weeks of temperatures below 65 F. Lastly, a sudden frost can damage buds, impeding your plant's flowering the following year.
Fertilizer
Climbing hydrangeas are considered "low maintenance" when it comes to fertilizing. In fact, you can usually just let your plant be for the first three years. After that, fertilize it in the spring before the leaves begin to bud, only if you are noticing issues with yellowing leaves. If so, use a 10-10-10 product at just below the suggested amount on the label. Fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will also help create beautiful blooms. In the late summer or fall, make sure to spread a 1-inch layer of compost around your plant, topped with an inch or two of mulch.
Types of Climbing Hydrangea
The Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is the most common variety of climbing hydrangea. It yields white flowers and has excellent frost and heat tolerance.
The Miranda variety has variegated leaves that are part yellow and part green. One of the more decorative varieties, Mirandas can grow up to 50 feet tall and 6 feet wide.
The Silver Lining climbing hydrangea produces silvery-grey variegated leaves. This variety is finicky, however, preferring partial shade over full sun or full shade.
The Flying Saucer variety is known for its inflorescences that resemble flying saucers. These showy white blooms look fabulous against their backdrop of bright green foliage.
Pruning
Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom, but it's worth the wait for the years of enjoyment they bring. Start out with the largest plants possible—of course, you will pay extra at the garden center for larger plants—and prune only the dead and damaged branches each year, in late spring or early summer. Once the plant is established, climbing hydrangea grows vigorously and may need summer pruning or shaping to your liking.
Cutting and drying hydrangea flowerheads is a favorite pastime for seasoned gardeners. Once dry, climbing hydrangea flowers turn reddish-brown, and the heads can be used in crafts, dried bouquets, or incorporated into a dried arrangement for the home.
Propagating Climbing Hydrangea
Propagate climbing hydrangea in May or June by taking a cutting from the stem of an established plant. Propagating an already thriving hydrangea offers a way to shape and prune your existing garden treasure, while also assuring any additional plants will maintain the same look. Climbing hydrangea is simple to propagate and transplant with a few trusty supplies. Here’s how:
Gather your sharp garden shears, an alcohol wipe, potting soil, rooting powder, a potting tray, clear plastic wrap, small plant stakes, and a spray bottle.
Wipe your shear blades with alcohol. Select a healthy green stem without buds. Cut a stem 3 to 5 inches long, making your cut 2 inches below the leaf node and high enough on the stem so that you don't encounter the woody part.
Use your shears to carefully remove all but the top two leaves on the cutting. If you damage the stem, discard it and start over with another cutting.
Prepare a potting tray with potting soil that contains a mixture of loam and perlite.
Dip the end of your cutting in your rooting powder and stick it into a prepared hole in the moist soil.
Cover your planting with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, and use plant stakes to support it. Place your tray in an area that receives low light and maintains a stable temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Mist the soil regularly with a spray bottle.
In one month, your cutting should begin to root. At this point, expose it to the morning sun for a few weeks by taking it outside, and then bringing it back in.
Plant your cutting in your garden bed in the spring, once temperatures have warmed.
How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed
Growing climbing hydrangea from seed involves filling a pot with soil and placing the seeds on top (not buried beneath). Keep the soil moist and place your pot in a sunny window. In approximately 14 days, your seeds will germinate. When you begin to see shoots, it's safe to transplant your seedling into your garden bed when spring temperatures become warm.
Overwintering
Make sure to water your climbing hydrangea up until the bitter end of the season. These plants need a good drenching before going to sleep for winter. Once the ground has frozen, dress the base of the plant with manure or another organic compost mixture, as this will provide the plant with nutrients come spring. (In warmer zones, you can add compost when the weather starts to cool.) Next, apply a substantial layer of hardy mulch to keep the plant's roots warm. Decorative mulch will work, as will straw, hay, or fallen leaves.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Climbing hydrangea faces similar issues to those of traditional hydrangea plants. Because of the density of the foliage and blooms, this variety can become afflicted with mildew and leaf spot. As for pests, you may spot signs of spider mites, scale, and aphids, all of which can be treated with a mild insecticide or, a non-toxic alternative, neem oil.
How to Get Climbing Hydrangea to Bloom
Climbing hydrangea is an exercise in patience, as the foliage will grow with abundance long before the plant flowers. Once established, assure summer blooms by pruning your hydrangea in late June or July, as new blooms will develop on the prior year's branches. Cutting in the fall, winter, or spring may cause you to snip off buds before they would otherwise flower.
Common Problems With Climbing Hydrangea
Once a mature vine has covered a surface, cracks in the surface can develop and become difficult to see or access for repairs. Also, the weight of the vines may loosen surfaces like shingles, siding, and clapboard, and you won't be able to access the surface to paint it without massive pruning. Lastly, vines on a house may also grow into areas like gutters, making regular maintenance a problem. Sufficient pruning can control this, but it can be difficult to do so on a multistory home.
FAQ
How long can climbing hydrangea live?
Climbing hydrangea can live for up to five years in the right conditions and with proper care, like ample watering, afternoon shade, and mid-summer pruning.
What is the difference between climbing hydrangeas and false hydrangea vine?
Climbing hydrangea yields only white and off-white flowers, whereas false hydrangea vine comes in many different colors. Also, climbing hydrangea has four-petaled flowers dispersed around non-showy reproductive structures. False hydrangea vine has single sail-like bracts for flowers, instead.
Why is climbing hydrangea considered a four-season plant?
Climbing hydrangea looks great in all four seasons. In the spring, the bright green foliage climbs walls and trellises. In the summer, abundant lacy blooms proliferate. In the fall, the glossy leaves turn yellow with the change of seasons. And in the winter, the shedding bark adds texture to barren gardens.
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文章
ritau
2020年03月03日
Hydrangea is a genus of 70–75 species of flowering plants native to Asia and the Americas. By far the greatest species diversity is in eastern Asia, notably Korea, China, and Japan. Most are shrubs 1 to 3 meters tall, but some are small trees, and others lianas reaching up to 30 m (98 ft) by climbing up trees. They can be either deciduous or evergreen, though the widely cultivated temperate species are all deciduous.
Having been introduced to the Azores, H. macrophylla is now very common, particularly on Faial, which is known as the "blue island" due to the vast number of hydrangeas present on the island.
‘Hydrangea’ is derived from Greek and means ‘water vessel’, which is in reference to the shape of its seed capsules. The earlier name, Hortensia, is a Latinised version of the French given name Hortense, referring to the wife of Jean-André Lepaute.
*In culture*
In Japan, ama-cha,甘茶 meaning sweet tea, is another herbal tea made from Hydrangea serrata, whose leaves contain a substance that develops a sweet taste (phyllodulcin). For the fullest taste, fresh leaves are crumpled, steamed, and dried, yielding dark brown tea leaves. Ama-cha is mainly used for kan-butsu-e (the Buddha bathing ceremony) on April 8 every year—the day thought to be Buddha's birthday in Japan. During the ceremony, Ama-cha is poured over a statue of Buddha and served to people in attendance. A legend has it that on the day Buddha was born, nine dragons poured Amrita over him; ama-cha is substituted for Amrita in Japan.
In Korean tea, Hydrangea serrata (hangul:산수국 hanja:山水菊) is used for an herbal tea called sugukcha (수국차) or ilsulcha (이슬차).
The pink hydrangea has risen in popularity all over the world, but especially in Asia. Pink hydrangeas have many different meanings, but generally mean, "You are the beat of my heart," as described by the celebrated Asian florist Tan Jun Yong, where he was quoted saying, "The light delicate blush of the petals reminds me of a beating heart, while the size could only match the heart of the sender!"
Hydrangea quercifolia was declared the official state wildflower of Alabama in 1999.
*Colours and soil acidity*
In most species the flowers are white, but in some species (notably H. macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink, light purple, or dark purple. In these species the color is affected by the presence of aluminium ions which are available or tied up depending upon the soil pH. For H. macrophylla and H. serrata cultivars, the flower color can be determined by the relative acidity of the soil: an acidic soil (pH below 7), will have available aluminum ions and typically produce flowers that are blue to purple, whereas an alkaline soil (pH above 7) will tie up aluminum ions and result in pink or red flowers. This is caused by a color change of the flower pigments in the presence of aluminium ions which can be taken up into hyperaccumulating plants. Lowering the pH of potting soils or mixes usually does not change the flower color to blue, because these soils have no aluminum ions. The ability to blue or pink a hydrangea is also influenced by the cultivar. Some plants are selected for their ability to be blued, while others are bred and selected to be red, pink or white. The flower color of most other Hydrangea species is not affected by aluminum and cannot be changed or shifted. Hydrangeas also have a nickname called 'Change Rose'.
Having been introduced to the Azores, H. macrophylla is now very common, particularly on Faial, which is known as the "blue island" due to the vast number of hydrangeas present on the island.
‘Hydrangea’ is derived from Greek and means ‘water vessel’, which is in reference to the shape of its seed capsules. The earlier name, Hortensia, is a Latinised version of the French given name Hortense, referring to the wife of Jean-André Lepaute.
*In culture*
In Japan, ama-cha,甘茶 meaning sweet tea, is another herbal tea made from Hydrangea serrata, whose leaves contain a substance that develops a sweet taste (phyllodulcin). For the fullest taste, fresh leaves are crumpled, steamed, and dried, yielding dark brown tea leaves. Ama-cha is mainly used for kan-butsu-e (the Buddha bathing ceremony) on April 8 every year—the day thought to be Buddha's birthday in Japan. During the ceremony, Ama-cha is poured over a statue of Buddha and served to people in attendance. A legend has it that on the day Buddha was born, nine dragons poured Amrita over him; ama-cha is substituted for Amrita in Japan.
In Korean tea, Hydrangea serrata (hangul:산수국 hanja:山水菊) is used for an herbal tea called sugukcha (수국차) or ilsulcha (이슬차).
The pink hydrangea has risen in popularity all over the world, but especially in Asia. Pink hydrangeas have many different meanings, but generally mean, "You are the beat of my heart," as described by the celebrated Asian florist Tan Jun Yong, where he was quoted saying, "The light delicate blush of the petals reminds me of a beating heart, while the size could only match the heart of the sender!"
Hydrangea quercifolia was declared the official state wildflower of Alabama in 1999.
*Colours and soil acidity*
In most species the flowers are white, but in some species (notably H. macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink, light purple, or dark purple. In these species the color is affected by the presence of aluminium ions which are available or tied up depending upon the soil pH. For H. macrophylla and H. serrata cultivars, the flower color can be determined by the relative acidity of the soil: an acidic soil (pH below 7), will have available aluminum ions and typically produce flowers that are blue to purple, whereas an alkaline soil (pH above 7) will tie up aluminum ions and result in pink or red flowers. This is caused by a color change of the flower pigments in the presence of aluminium ions which can be taken up into hyperaccumulating plants. Lowering the pH of potting soils or mixes usually does not change the flower color to blue, because these soils have no aluminum ions. The ability to blue or pink a hydrangea is also influenced by the cultivar. Some plants are selected for their ability to be blued, while others are bred and selected to be red, pink or white. The flower color of most other Hydrangea species is not affected by aluminum and cannot be changed or shifted. Hydrangeas also have a nickname called 'Change Rose'.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Sometimes, divide and conquer is the best way to deal with unruly established hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) or those that you planted in too tight a spot. You can use the same technique recommended for dividing most perennials -- digging up the plant at the most auspicious moment and dividing the root clump into two or more plants.
Hefty Hydrangeas
You thought your kids grew fast -- that small hydrangea pot you purchase today at the garden store won't waste any time in expanding, if you provide well-drained soil, partial sun and sufficient irrigation. A clump of hydrangeas 10 feet tall and with an even larger width is not unusual, and these plants grow fast in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, depending on species. If your established plant outgrows its space, it may be time to split the baby.
Dividing a Hydrangea
The trickiest part about dividing hydrangeas is to figure out the ideal time. Many tout spring as the perfect moment, just after the plant leaves dormancy and fine weather is just around the corner. But according to experts at Perennials.com, the only perennials that should be divided in spring are those that flower after mid-June. Those that flower before mid-June do best when divided in the fall, just before dormancy. With hydrangeas, the time the shrub flowers depends on the species and cultivar.
What Flowers When
Five types of hydrangeas are cultivated in the United States, and the most popular species is the well-known bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) that thrives in USDA zones 5 through 11. Bigleaf, as well as several other hydrangea species, begins blooming in midsummer and carries on through August or September, depending on cultivar and climate. These hydrangeas should be divided in the spring. If your hydrangea blooms before mid-June, you should divide in late fall.
Long Division
If you're dividing your hydrangea in spring, wait until you see an inch or two of new shoots, and then dig up the clump. Using a narrow, long spade -- termed a rabbiting spade -- dig a deep circle around the clump, and then pry the root ball out of the ground and set it on a tarp. Knock or wash off loose soil. Cut the clump into two or more pieces with a clean, sterilized garden knife, trying to find a natural point of separation if possible. Cut each of these pieces into sections again if the size of the clump merits it. Each section should have both green shoots above and roots below.
Replanting the Pieces
Replant the sections immediately in moist, well-drained soil in a location that gets afternoon sun. If you have a bigleaf hydrangea, remember that the flowers will turn blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. Plant each piece at about the same depth as it was growing. Water the area well after planting, and add a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost over the root area, keeping it a few inches from the hydrangea stem.
Hefty Hydrangeas
You thought your kids grew fast -- that small hydrangea pot you purchase today at the garden store won't waste any time in expanding, if you provide well-drained soil, partial sun and sufficient irrigation. A clump of hydrangeas 10 feet tall and with an even larger width is not unusual, and these plants grow fast in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, depending on species. If your established plant outgrows its space, it may be time to split the baby.
Dividing a Hydrangea
The trickiest part about dividing hydrangeas is to figure out the ideal time. Many tout spring as the perfect moment, just after the plant leaves dormancy and fine weather is just around the corner. But according to experts at Perennials.com, the only perennials that should be divided in spring are those that flower after mid-June. Those that flower before mid-June do best when divided in the fall, just before dormancy. With hydrangeas, the time the shrub flowers depends on the species and cultivar.
What Flowers When
Five types of hydrangeas are cultivated in the United States, and the most popular species is the well-known bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) that thrives in USDA zones 5 through 11. Bigleaf, as well as several other hydrangea species, begins blooming in midsummer and carries on through August or September, depending on cultivar and climate. These hydrangeas should be divided in the spring. If your hydrangea blooms before mid-June, you should divide in late fall.
Long Division
If you're dividing your hydrangea in spring, wait until you see an inch or two of new shoots, and then dig up the clump. Using a narrow, long spade -- termed a rabbiting spade -- dig a deep circle around the clump, and then pry the root ball out of the ground and set it on a tarp. Knock or wash off loose soil. Cut the clump into two or more pieces with a clean, sterilized garden knife, trying to find a natural point of separation if possible. Cut each of these pieces into sections again if the size of the clump merits it. Each section should have both green shoots above and roots below.
Replanting the Pieces
Replant the sections immediately in moist, well-drained soil in a location that gets afternoon sun. If you have a bigleaf hydrangea, remember that the flowers will turn blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. Plant each piece at about the same depth as it was growing. Water the area well after planting, and add a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost over the root area, keeping it a few inches from the hydrangea stem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Fill patio planters and pots with hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) in spring for a summer full of flowers. Hydrangeas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 depending on the species, and they range in size from 3 to 9 feet tall. Two varieties that grow well in containers are big leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and mountain hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata), hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. While spring is the best time to plant, you can pot up hydrangeas anytime through summer.
The Right Planter
When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas.
Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in.
Disinfecting Pots and Planters
Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting.
Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles.
Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution.
Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse.
Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas.
Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
Acidic Potting Blend
Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball.
Potting Up
Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks.
Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun.
Water and Fertilizer
Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom.
Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants.
Repot in Spring
Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
The Right Planter
When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas.
Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in.
Disinfecting Pots and Planters
Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting.
Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles.
Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution.
Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse.
Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas.
Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry.
Acidic Potting Blend
Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball.
Potting Up
Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks.
Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun.
Water and Fertilizer
Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom.
Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants.
Repot in Spring
Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
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成长记
Pommy Mommy
2018年06月20日
I'm pleasantly surprised that this hydrangea bloomed any flowers this year especially since I just planted it last summer
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成长记
CAVwife08
2018年06月03日
I now added "Hydrangea" in my "garden"
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Pommy Mommy：Do you know what type of hydrangea this is? I just never have seen one with such small leaves, all my hydrangeas have large-ish "Cordate" leaves. They are my favorite "flower" so I'm just curious because I try to have as many varieties of hydrangeas possible that are Ohio hardy.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: AcidicNeutralNeutral to Slightly AlkalineSlightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Colors also beguile with clear blues, vibrant pinks, frosty whites, lavender, and rose—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!
The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
Unrivaled in the shrub world, these elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce flowers in mid-summer through fall (when little else may be in bloom). Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers.
PLANTING
Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas (see Recommended Varieties below).
Plant in spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly.
Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.
CARE
For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions are about pruning a hydrangea. And no wonder it’s confusing! It depends on the variety of hydrangea.
Common Hydrangea Shrubs
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, H. macrophylla). One type of Bigleaf is the “Mophead” with the big snowball-size blooms. The other type of Bigleaf is the “Lacecap” with the pretty flowers almost hanging down from a flat center of tiny blooms.
The Bigleaf variety, or H. macrophylla, as well as H. paniculata and H. quercifolia are pruned AFTER the flowers fade.
Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old or neglected or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also renovate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
Other Hydrangeas
Oakleaf, panicle, and smooth hydrangeas are treated differently. They blossom on the current season’s wood. They should be pruned in the later winter when the plant is dormant BEFORE bloom. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, they will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
PESTS/DISEASES
Click links for common pest pages:
Gray mold
Slugs
Powdery mildew
Rust
Ringspot virus
Leaf spots
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: AcidicNeutralNeutral to Slightly AlkalineSlightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Colors also beguile with clear blues, vibrant pinks, frosty whites, lavender, and rose—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!
The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
Unrivaled in the shrub world, these elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce flowers in mid-summer through fall (when little else may be in bloom). Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers.
PLANTING
Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas (see Recommended Varieties below).
Plant in spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly.
Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.
CARE
For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions are about pruning a hydrangea. And no wonder it’s confusing! It depends on the variety of hydrangea.
Common Hydrangea Shrubs
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, H. macrophylla). One type of Bigleaf is the “Mophead” with the big snowball-size blooms. The other type of Bigleaf is the “Lacecap” with the pretty flowers almost hanging down from a flat center of tiny blooms.
The Bigleaf variety, or H. macrophylla, as well as H. paniculata and H. quercifolia are pruned AFTER the flowers fade.
Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old or neglected or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also renovate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
Other Hydrangeas
Oakleaf, panicle, and smooth hydrangeas are treated differently. They blossom on the current season’s wood. They should be pruned in the later winter when the plant is dormant BEFORE bloom. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, they will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
PESTS/DISEASES
Click links for common pest pages:
Gray mold
Slugs
Powdery mildew
Rust
Ringspot virus
Leaf spots
3
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
How to Choose Hydrangeas
There are several types of hydrangea plants. Most grow as shrubs, although there is one vine, called climbing hydrangea. Mophead and lacecap types, perhaps the most common hydrangeas in zones 6 through 9, can fill many roles in the landscape. To grow hydrangeas as a hedge, choose panicle, smooth, or oakleaf hydrangea, which also offers good fall leaf color. If you are planning to grow hydrangeas in full shade, choose oakleaf hydrangea or the climbing type. If you’re planting hydrangeas in colder regions, panicle hydrangea (the type that can be grown as a tree) is the one you want, as it is the most winter-hardy.
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
The most important factors when choosing where to plant hydrangeas are light and moisture. In the South, plant them where they will receive morning sunlight and afternoon shade. With these conditions, you can grow the extremely popular French (also called bigleaf) hydrangea or panicle hydrangea. In northern regions, these same types of hydrangeas will grow in all-day sun.
The name hydrangea contains the root word “hydra” (like in hydration), which gives a clue about how much water these plants need. Make sure the spot you select is close to a water source. Know, too, that French hydrangeas tend to need the most water to thrive.
What Kind of Soil to Use for Hydrangeas
To grow hydrangeas in planting beds, focus on improving the native soil. One simple way to do that is to combine equal parts existing soil and Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees and Shrubs. In warmer regions (zones 7 and warmer), where winter tends to be mild, you can also grow hydrangeas in containers. Create just the right environment for them by filling pots with Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix.
It is worth noting that mophead and lacecap hydrangeas both change flower color based on soil pH, which is a measure of how alkaline or acidic the soil is. Flowers turn pink to red in alkaline soil, and lavender to blue in acidic soil.
When to Plant Hydrangeas
When you see hydrangea plants for sale at local garden centers, that’s usually the right time for planting. This timing will vary by region. For instance, in areas with winter freezing and snow, hydrangeas should be planted in early spring or early fall (as soon as summer heat breaks). In warmer regions with mild winters, the window for planting hydrangeas is longer, from fall all the way through to early spring.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
How far apart to space plants depends on what type of hydrangea you’re growing. It’s best to check the plant tag. Note that hydrangeas planted in the shade tend to grow a little larger and spread a little more. When planting hydrangeas, dig a hole that is twice as wide as the width of the container the hydrangea came in. Place the plant in the hole so that the root ball is at the same depth as it was in the original pot, then fill in the hole with the 50-50 soil mixture described above. Water well after planting.
How to Plant Hydrangeas in Containers
To plant hydrangeas in containers, again check that plants are at the same depth as they were growing previously. How large a container to use depends on how large your hydrangea will grow. Typically, it’s safe to start with a pot 2 inches larger than the container the plant is currently in.How to Water Hydrangeas
Water deeply after planting, making sure to soak the root ball and surrounding soil. If the hydrangeas are dormant (without leaves), you may not need to water again until growth resumes.
Hydrangeas thrive in consistently moist soil. Check the soil at least once a week. When the top inch of soil is dry, it’s time to water. Once hydrangeas are established, they typically survive on rainfall, except during times of drought.How to Mulch Hydrangeas
After planting hydrangeas, apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick mulch layer around (but not on) the plants. Mulch helps keep soil moist and weeds at bay by blocking the weeds’ growth and access to sunlight. Choose whichever mulch looks best in your landscape: Scotts® bagged mulch, shredded leaves, pine straw, or some other locally available material.
How to Feed Hydrangeas
Fertilize hydrangeas in early spring as new growth appears and again just before summer. Avoid feeding hydrangeas after August, especially in regions with cold winters. A slow-release plant food works well. For best results, try Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Flowering Trees & Shrubs Plant Food, which feeds for up to 3 months.
How to Prune Hydrangeas
When to prune hydrangeas hinges on the type of hydrangea you’re growing. Both French and oakleaf hydrangeas flower on old wood (last year’s stems), so you should prune plants right after flowering is finished. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas flower on new growth, which means you can prune stems in late winter to early spring. In general, as long as you give hydrangeas enough elbow room to spread and reach their mature size, you shouldn’t have to do too much pruning beyond cutting out dead or damaged wood.
How to Protect Hydrangeas in Winter
In colder areas, many gardeners erect a burlap screen around oakleaf and French hydrangeas in an effort to help protect flower buds that have already formed for the next year. The most important aspect of winter protection, however, is making sure the hydrangea you’re growing is hardy in your gardening zone.
How to Use Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas can fill multiple roles in the garden. Plant a hydrangea privacy hedge, or use them as a foundation planting around a home. A single hydrangea can be the focal point of a garden, and potted hydrangeas can bring beauty to a deck or entry garden. Hydrangeas also integrate well into mixed borders of shrubs and perennials, and make a natural-looking addition to a woodland setting.
Fresh hydrangea flowers are a favorite for filling vases and adorning wedding bouquets. If you want to dry hydrangea blooms, most experts suggest waiting to let flowers age and dry naturally on the plant. Harvest at the color stage you prefer.
There are several types of hydrangea plants. Most grow as shrubs, although there is one vine, called climbing hydrangea. Mophead and lacecap types, perhaps the most common hydrangeas in zones 6 through 9, can fill many roles in the landscape. To grow hydrangeas as a hedge, choose panicle, smooth, or oakleaf hydrangea, which also offers good fall leaf color. If you are planning to grow hydrangeas in full shade, choose oakleaf hydrangea or the climbing type. If you’re planting hydrangeas in colder regions, panicle hydrangea (the type that can be grown as a tree) is the one you want, as it is the most winter-hardy.
Where to Plant Hydrangeas
The most important factors when choosing where to plant hydrangeas are light and moisture. In the South, plant them where they will receive morning sunlight and afternoon shade. With these conditions, you can grow the extremely popular French (also called bigleaf) hydrangea or panicle hydrangea. In northern regions, these same types of hydrangeas will grow in all-day sun.
The name hydrangea contains the root word “hydra” (like in hydration), which gives a clue about how much water these plants need. Make sure the spot you select is close to a water source. Know, too, that French hydrangeas tend to need the most water to thrive.
What Kind of Soil to Use for Hydrangeas
To grow hydrangeas in planting beds, focus on improving the native soil. One simple way to do that is to combine equal parts existing soil and Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees and Shrubs. In warmer regions (zones 7 and warmer), where winter tends to be mild, you can also grow hydrangeas in containers. Create just the right environment for them by filling pots with Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix.
It is worth noting that mophead and lacecap hydrangeas both change flower color based on soil pH, which is a measure of how alkaline or acidic the soil is. Flowers turn pink to red in alkaline soil, and lavender to blue in acidic soil.
When to Plant Hydrangeas
When you see hydrangea plants for sale at local garden centers, that’s usually the right time for planting. This timing will vary by region. For instance, in areas with winter freezing and snow, hydrangeas should be planted in early spring or early fall (as soon as summer heat breaks). In warmer regions with mild winters, the window for planting hydrangeas is longer, from fall all the way through to early spring.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
How far apart to space plants depends on what type of hydrangea you’re growing. It’s best to check the plant tag. Note that hydrangeas planted in the shade tend to grow a little larger and spread a little more. When planting hydrangeas, dig a hole that is twice as wide as the width of the container the hydrangea came in. Place the plant in the hole so that the root ball is at the same depth as it was in the original pot, then fill in the hole with the 50-50 soil mixture described above. Water well after planting.
How to Plant Hydrangeas in Containers
To plant hydrangeas in containers, again check that plants are at the same depth as they were growing previously. How large a container to use depends on how large your hydrangea will grow. Typically, it’s safe to start with a pot 2 inches larger than the container the plant is currently in.How to Water Hydrangeas
Water deeply after planting, making sure to soak the root ball and surrounding soil. If the hydrangeas are dormant (without leaves), you may not need to water again until growth resumes.
Hydrangeas thrive in consistently moist soil. Check the soil at least once a week. When the top inch of soil is dry, it’s time to water. Once hydrangeas are established, they typically survive on rainfall, except during times of drought.How to Mulch Hydrangeas
After planting hydrangeas, apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick mulch layer around (but not on) the plants. Mulch helps keep soil moist and weeds at bay by blocking the weeds’ growth and access to sunlight. Choose whichever mulch looks best in your landscape: Scotts® bagged mulch, shredded leaves, pine straw, or some other locally available material.
How to Feed Hydrangeas
Fertilize hydrangeas in early spring as new growth appears and again just before summer. Avoid feeding hydrangeas after August, especially in regions with cold winters. A slow-release plant food works well. For best results, try Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Flowering Trees & Shrubs Plant Food, which feeds for up to 3 months.
How to Prune Hydrangeas
When to prune hydrangeas hinges on the type of hydrangea you’re growing. Both French and oakleaf hydrangeas flower on old wood (last year’s stems), so you should prune plants right after flowering is finished. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas flower on new growth, which means you can prune stems in late winter to early spring. In general, as long as you give hydrangeas enough elbow room to spread and reach their mature size, you shouldn’t have to do too much pruning beyond cutting out dead or damaged wood.
How to Protect Hydrangeas in Winter
In colder areas, many gardeners erect a burlap screen around oakleaf and French hydrangeas in an effort to help protect flower buds that have already formed for the next year. The most important aspect of winter protection, however, is making sure the hydrangea you’re growing is hardy in your gardening zone.
How to Use Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas can fill multiple roles in the garden. Plant a hydrangea privacy hedge, or use them as a foundation planting around a home. A single hydrangea can be the focal point of a garden, and potted hydrangeas can bring beauty to a deck or entry garden. Hydrangeas also integrate well into mixed borders of shrubs and perennials, and make a natural-looking addition to a woodland setting.
Fresh hydrangea flowers are a favorite for filling vases and adorning wedding bouquets. If you want to dry hydrangea blooms, most experts suggest waiting to let flowers age and dry naturally on the plant. Harvest at the color stage you prefer.
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