文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
A plant for pond edges, bog gardens and other wet sites, horsetail (Equisetum hyemale) grows in stands of bamboo-like, dark green stems. Also called scouring rush, horsetail is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 11, and is a member of an ancient plant family that dates back 350 million years, notes the Missouri Botanical Garden. One reason for this perennial's long survival is its extremely aggressive spreading habit, but growing horsetail in containers gives you some control.
Containing Horsetail
Horsetail spreads outward through underground stems called rhizomes, and containers provide a barrier to these rhizomes. Plant horsetail in a container, with drainage holes, that's just large enough to accommodate the plant's root ball. Place a sheet of fine mesh, such as screen mesh, over the drainage holes to prevent horsetail rhizomes from growing through them, and spread a layer of general purpose potting soil over the mesh. Place the horsetail in the container. The top of the root ball should be 1 inch below the container rim. Fill in gaps around the root ball with more potting soil, and apply water until it runs though the drainage holes.
Planting in Water
Horsetail thrives in water gardens and on stream banks. Providing year-round color and structure in wet, full-sun and partial-shade sites, horsetail tolerates water to a depth of 4 inches over its roots. To add horsetail to your water garden or pond site, spread a 1-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil in the horsetail container to protect it. Place bricks on the bottom of the planting site to provide a firm, level base. Sink the horsetail container into the water slowly until it's submerged and resting firmly on the bricks.
Planting in Soil
Horsetail provides strong, vertical lines in Japanese gardens and can grow where few other plants survive. Dig a hole 2 or 3 inches wider than the horsetail container and 1 inch less deep. Place the container in the hole, and check that it's level. Twisting the container and pushing down gently helps level the container and firm the soil beneath it. Check that the container rim is protruding from the soil by 1 inch, and fill in the gaps around it with dug soil. Water the ground around the container to settle the soil, and fill in any hollows with more soil.
Controlling Horsetail
Prune regularly to control horsetail's spreading habit. Horsetail grows 2 to 4 feet tall and spreads indefinitely in favorable conditions. Check the horsetail monthly, at least, for rhizomes climbing over the container rim and stems with cone-like, spore-producing heads, which usually appear in spring. Clean pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and prune escaping rhizomes and fruiting stems at ground level. Wipe the pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol again after use. Place pruned horsetail debris in a sealed plastic bag in the trash. Don't grow horsetail in areas accessible to pets or livestock. Horsetail can be deadly to animals when eaten.
Containing Horsetail
Horsetail spreads outward through underground stems called rhizomes, and containers provide a barrier to these rhizomes. Plant horsetail in a container, with drainage holes, that's just large enough to accommodate the plant's root ball. Place a sheet of fine mesh, such as screen mesh, over the drainage holes to prevent horsetail rhizomes from growing through them, and spread a layer of general purpose potting soil over the mesh. Place the horsetail in the container. The top of the root ball should be 1 inch below the container rim. Fill in gaps around the root ball with more potting soil, and apply water until it runs though the drainage holes.
Planting in Water
Horsetail thrives in water gardens and on stream banks. Providing year-round color and structure in wet, full-sun and partial-shade sites, horsetail tolerates water to a depth of 4 inches over its roots. To add horsetail to your water garden or pond site, spread a 1-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil in the horsetail container to protect it. Place bricks on the bottom of the planting site to provide a firm, level base. Sink the horsetail container into the water slowly until it's submerged and resting firmly on the bricks.
Planting in Soil
Horsetail provides strong, vertical lines in Japanese gardens and can grow where few other plants survive. Dig a hole 2 or 3 inches wider than the horsetail container and 1 inch less deep. Place the container in the hole, and check that it's level. Twisting the container and pushing down gently helps level the container and firm the soil beneath it. Check that the container rim is protruding from the soil by 1 inch, and fill in the gaps around it with dug soil. Water the ground around the container to settle the soil, and fill in any hollows with more soil.
Controlling Horsetail
Prune regularly to control horsetail's spreading habit. Horsetail grows 2 to 4 feet tall and spreads indefinitely in favorable conditions. Check the horsetail monthly, at least, for rhizomes climbing over the container rim and stems with cone-like, spore-producing heads, which usually appear in spring. Clean pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and prune escaping rhizomes and fruiting stems at ground level. Wipe the pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol again after use. Place pruned horsetail debris in a sealed plastic bag in the trash. Don't grow horsetail in areas accessible to pets or livestock. Horsetail can be deadly to animals when eaten.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Disocactus phyllanthoides (DC.) Barthlott
Common Names
German Empress, Giant Empress, Pond Lily Cactus
Synonyms
Cactus phyllanthoides (basionym), Cereus phyllanthoides, Epiphyllum phyllanthoides, Nopalxochia phyllanthoides, Phyllocactus phyllanthoides
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Hylocereeae
Genus: Disocactus
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Mid spring
Description
Disocactus phyllanthoides is an easy to grow jungle cactus with green or reddish stems, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) long or more, branching, primary stems up to 16 inches (40 cm) long, 0.2 inch (6 mm) thick, woody at base, flattened at apex. The secondary stems are flat, lanceolate, acute with coarsely scalloped margins, toothed, up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and up to 2 inches (5 cm) wide. The flowers are funnel-shaped, pink in color, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long and up to 3.5 inches (9 cm) wide. The fruits are ellipsoid, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long with low ribs, green at first, later red.
How to Grow and Care
Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates such as mine. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Origin
Native to Mexico (Hidalgo, Oaxaca).
Disocactus phyllanthoides (DC.) Barthlott
Common Names
German Empress, Giant Empress, Pond Lily Cactus
Synonyms
Cactus phyllanthoides (basionym), Cereus phyllanthoides, Epiphyllum phyllanthoides, Nopalxochia phyllanthoides, Phyllocactus phyllanthoides
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Hylocereeae
Genus: Disocactus
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Mid spring
Description
Disocactus phyllanthoides is an easy to grow jungle cactus with green or reddish stems, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) long or more, branching, primary stems up to 16 inches (40 cm) long, 0.2 inch (6 mm) thick, woody at base, flattened at apex. The secondary stems are flat, lanceolate, acute with coarsely scalloped margins, toothed, up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and up to 2 inches (5 cm) wide. The flowers are funnel-shaped, pink in color, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long and up to 3.5 inches (9 cm) wide. The fruits are ellipsoid, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long with low ribs, green at first, later red.
How to Grow and Care
Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates such as mine. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Origin
Native to Mexico (Hidalgo, Oaxaca).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Ranunculus peltatus Schrank
Common Names
Pond Water Crowfoot
Synonyms
Batrachium dichotomum, Batrachium elongatum, Batrachium floribundum, Batrachium langei, Batrachium peltatum, Batrachium pseudofluitans, Batrachium triphyllos, Batrachium truncatum, Ranunculus capillaceus, Ranunculus carinatus, Ranunculus floribundus, Ranunculus triphyllos
Scientific Classification
Family: Ranunculaceae
Subfamily: Ranunculoideae
Tribe: Ranunculeae
Genus: Ranunculus
Flower
Color: White and yellow
Bloom Time: June to September
Description
Ranunculus peltatus is a herbaceous perennial or sometimes annual plant. It has two different leaf types, broad rounded floating leaves, up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter with three to seven shallow lobes, and finely divided thread-like submerged leaves. The flowers are white with a yellow center, up to 0.8 inch (2 cm) in diameter, with five petals.
How to Grow and Care
Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display.
Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results. Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season. Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Origin
Native to Europe, southwestern Asia and northern Africa.
Ranunculus peltatus Schrank
Common Names
Pond Water Crowfoot
Synonyms
Batrachium dichotomum, Batrachium elongatum, Batrachium floribundum, Batrachium langei, Batrachium peltatum, Batrachium pseudofluitans, Batrachium triphyllos, Batrachium truncatum, Ranunculus capillaceus, Ranunculus carinatus, Ranunculus floribundus, Ranunculus triphyllos
Scientific Classification
Family: Ranunculaceae
Subfamily: Ranunculoideae
Tribe: Ranunculeae
Genus: Ranunculus
Flower
Color: White and yellow
Bloom Time: June to September
Description
Ranunculus peltatus is a herbaceous perennial or sometimes annual plant. It has two different leaf types, broad rounded floating leaves, up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter with three to seven shallow lobes, and finely divided thread-like submerged leaves. The flowers are white with a yellow center, up to 0.8 inch (2 cm) in diameter, with five petals.
How to Grow and Care
Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display.
Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results. Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season. Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Origin
Native to Europe, southwestern Asia and northern Africa.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Also known as little floating heart, water snowflake (Nymphoides spp.) is a charming little floating plant with delicate snowflake-like flowers that bloom in summer. If you have an ornamental garden pond, there are a lot of very good reasons for growing snowflake lilies. Read on to learn more about snowflake water lily.
Water Snowflake Information
Despite its name and the obvious resemblance, snowflake water lily isn’t actually related to the water lily. Its growth habits are similar, however, and snowflake water lily, like the water lily, floats on the surface of the water with its roots connected to the soil below.
Snowflake water plants are hardy growers, sending out runners that quickly spread over the water’s surface. The plants can be extremely helpful if you fight recurring algae in your pond, as snowflake water lily provides shade that minimizes algae growth. Because snowflake water lily is a rambunctious grower, it is considered to be an invasive species in some states. Ensure the plant isn’t a problem in your area before planting snowflake water plants in your pond. Folks at your local Cooperative Extension office can provide specific information.
Water Snowflake Care
Growing snowflake lilies isn’t difficult in the mild temperatures of USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. If you live in a cooler climate, you can float the plants in pots and bring them indoors. Plant snowflake water lily where the plant is exposed to full sunlight, as blooming will be limited in partial shade and the plant may not survive in full shade. The water depth should be at least 3 inches and no deeper than 18 to 20 inches.
Snowflake water plants generally require no fertilizer because they take ample nutrients from pond water. However, if you choose to grow snowflake water lily in a container, provide a fertilizer made specifically for water plants every month or so during the growing season. Thin snowflake water plants occasionally if they become overcrowded, and remove dead leaves as they appear. Feel free to share the plant, which roots easily.
Water Snowflake Information
Despite its name and the obvious resemblance, snowflake water lily isn’t actually related to the water lily. Its growth habits are similar, however, and snowflake water lily, like the water lily, floats on the surface of the water with its roots connected to the soil below.
Snowflake water plants are hardy growers, sending out runners that quickly spread over the water’s surface. The plants can be extremely helpful if you fight recurring algae in your pond, as snowflake water lily provides shade that minimizes algae growth. Because snowflake water lily is a rambunctious grower, it is considered to be an invasive species in some states. Ensure the plant isn’t a problem in your area before planting snowflake water plants in your pond. Folks at your local Cooperative Extension office can provide specific information.
Water Snowflake Care
Growing snowflake lilies isn’t difficult in the mild temperatures of USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. If you live in a cooler climate, you can float the plants in pots and bring them indoors. Plant snowflake water lily where the plant is exposed to full sunlight, as blooming will be limited in partial shade and the plant may not survive in full shade. The water depth should be at least 3 inches and no deeper than 18 to 20 inches.
Snowflake water plants generally require no fertilizer because they take ample nutrients from pond water. However, if you choose to grow snowflake water lily in a container, provide a fertilizer made specifically for water plants every month or so during the growing season. Thin snowflake water plants occasionally if they become overcrowded, and remove dead leaves as they appear. Feel free to share the plant, which roots easily.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Water lettuce pond plants are commonly found in the slow moving waters of drainage ditches, ponds, lakes and canals in water anywhere from 0 to 30 feet deep. Its early origins were recorded to be the Nile River, possibly around Lake Victoria. Today, it is found throughout the tropics and the American Southwest and is quantified as a weed with no wildlife or human food uses for water lettuce recorded. It can, however, make an attractive water feature planting where its rapid growth may be corralled. So what is water lettuce?
What is Water Lettuce?
Water lettuce, or Pistia stratiotes, is in the family Araceae and is a perennial evergreen that forms large floating colonies that can be invasive if left unchecked. The spongy foliage is light green to gray-green colored and is 1 to 6 inches long. The floating root structure of water lettuce can grow up to 20 inches in length while the plant itself covers a 3 by 12 foot area typically.
This moderate grower has leaves that form velvety rosettes, which resemble small heads of lettuce — hence its name. An evergreen, the long dangling roots serve as a safe haven for fish but, otherwise, water lettuce has not wildlife uses. The yellow flowers are rather innocuous, hidden in the foliage and blooming from late summer to early winter.
How to Grow Water Lettuce
Reproduction of water lettuce is vegetative through the use of stolons and may be propagated through division of these or via seeds covered with sand and kept partially submerged in water. Water garden or container uses for water lettuce outdoors can occur in USDA planting zone 10 in full sun to part shade in the southern states.
Care of Water Lettuce
In warm climates, the plant will overwinter or you can grow water lettuce indoors in an aquatic environment in a mix of moist loam and sand with water temps between 66-72 F. (19-22 C.). Additional care of water lettuce is minimal, as the plant has no serious pest or disease issues.
What is Water Lettuce?
Water lettuce, or Pistia stratiotes, is in the family Araceae and is a perennial evergreen that forms large floating colonies that can be invasive if left unchecked. The spongy foliage is light green to gray-green colored and is 1 to 6 inches long. The floating root structure of water lettuce can grow up to 20 inches in length while the plant itself covers a 3 by 12 foot area typically.
This moderate grower has leaves that form velvety rosettes, which resemble small heads of lettuce — hence its name. An evergreen, the long dangling roots serve as a safe haven for fish but, otherwise, water lettuce has not wildlife uses. The yellow flowers are rather innocuous, hidden in the foliage and blooming from late summer to early winter.
How to Grow Water Lettuce
Reproduction of water lettuce is vegetative through the use of stolons and may be propagated through division of these or via seeds covered with sand and kept partially submerged in water. Water garden or container uses for water lettuce outdoors can occur in USDA planting zone 10 in full sun to part shade in the southern states.
Care of Water Lettuce
In warm climates, the plant will overwinter or you can grow water lettuce indoors in an aquatic environment in a mix of moist loam and sand with water temps between 66-72 F. (19-22 C.). Additional care of water lettuce is minimal, as the plant has no serious pest or disease issues.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Japanese sweet flag (Acorus gramineus) is a striking little aquatic plant that tops out at about 12 inches. The plant may not be statuesque, but the golden-yellow grass provides plenty of bright color in soggy garden spots, along streams or pond edges, in semi-shady woodland gardens – or nearly any area where the plant’s moisture requirements are met. It is a good choice for stabilizing the soil in damp, erosion-prone soil. Read on for more information about Japanese sweet flag.
Arorus Sweet Flag Info
Japanese sweet flag, also known as Calamus, is native to Japan and China. It is a cooperative, slow-spreading plant that attains a width of 2 feet in about five years. Miniature greenish-yellow blooms appear on spikes in spring and early summer, followed by tiny red berries. The grassy leaves emit a sweet, rather spicy aroma when crushed or stepped on. Sweet flag is hardy to USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9, although some Acorus sweet flag info indicates the plant is tough enough for zones 5 through 11.
Sweet Flag Care
It doesn’t take much effort when growing sweet flag grass. Sweet flag plants tolerate light shade or full sun, although the plant benefits from afternoon shade in hot climates. However, full sun is best if the soil is extremely boggy. Average soil is fine, but be sure the soil is consistently moist, as sweet flag doesn’t tolerate bone dry soil and may scorch. Similarly, the leaf tips may turn brown in periods of extreme cold.
To grow sweet flag in a pond or other standing water, place the plant in a container and set it in water less than 4 inches deep. Sweet flag plant benefits from division in spring every three or four years. Plant the small divisions in pots and let them mature before transplanting them into their permanent locations. Otherwise, growing sweet flag grass is nearly effortless.
Arorus Sweet Flag Info
Japanese sweet flag, also known as Calamus, is native to Japan and China. It is a cooperative, slow-spreading plant that attains a width of 2 feet in about five years. Miniature greenish-yellow blooms appear on spikes in spring and early summer, followed by tiny red berries. The grassy leaves emit a sweet, rather spicy aroma when crushed or stepped on. Sweet flag is hardy to USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9, although some Acorus sweet flag info indicates the plant is tough enough for zones 5 through 11.
Sweet Flag Care
It doesn’t take much effort when growing sweet flag grass. Sweet flag plants tolerate light shade or full sun, although the plant benefits from afternoon shade in hot climates. However, full sun is best if the soil is extremely boggy. Average soil is fine, but be sure the soil is consistently moist, as sweet flag doesn’t tolerate bone dry soil and may scorch. Similarly, the leaf tips may turn brown in periods of extreme cold.
To grow sweet flag in a pond or other standing water, place the plant in a container and set it in water less than 4 inches deep. Sweet flag plant benefits from division in spring every three or four years. Plant the small divisions in pots and let them mature before transplanting them into their permanent locations. Otherwise, growing sweet flag grass is nearly effortless.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
There’s nothing as annoying in the garden pond as watermeal. This tiny, loathsome plant can quickly take over, ruining your beautiful landscape and forcing yet another manual cleaning of your pond to clear it up. Learn some easier ways to manage watermeal weeds long term in this informative article.
What is Watermeal?
Experienced garden pond owners shutter when the name is uttered because watermeal in ponds is big trouble for the backyard gardener. This aquatic weed can be a serious pain, but watermeal in ponds doesn’t have to mean draining your pond, yet again, to kill it back. There are several methods of effective watermeal control that work against the plant’s basic biology.
Watermeal (Wolffia spp.) are holds the unique position as the world’s smallest flowering plant, but it’s also one of the world’s most annoying pond weeds. This 1 to 1 1/2 millimeter long, grain-like plant is commonly found embedded among colonies of duckweed, where it’s barely visible to the naked eye. If you dip your hand into the pond, remove some of the duckweed and rub it between your palms, you’ll feel a grainy sensation – that’s the watermeal. It can occur on its own, but this is a much less common situation. Watermeal removal is most effective with a two-fold approach that includes eliminating the material that the watermeal is feeding on and employing pond creatures to feed upon the weed itself. Prevention is a much easier process than control, but both require the same tactics. Once watermeal is choking the pond, it may be much easier to drain the pond and clean it completely before implementing protective measures.
Controlling Watermeal Weeds
Watermeal feeds greedily off of rotting material on the bottom of your pond. This black sludge may not look like much to you, but for watermeal, it’s a veritable buffet. Any program of watermeal control has to include management of that build-up, so if there’s fertilizer or agricultural run-off moving into your pond, or the leaves from the tree above end up in your pond every year, the first step is to slow this input. Surface netting can help trap leaves, or you can fish them out of the pond daily with a pool net. Run-off may be slowed by building an earth berm around the pond. Once the addition of nutrients is managed, it’s a good idea to add a bubble aerator to the deepest area in the bottom of your pond to eliminate the stratification. The lack of oxygen in deeper waters can make it hard for bacteria to break down whatever waste does accumulate. By adding a bubbler, you’ll increase oxygen and pond circulation so that your pond plankton can consume the excess nutrients before watermeal has a chance to set in.
While the watermeal is at least somewhat controlled, you’ll want to introduce pond fish that eat this plant, like koi or grass carp. Koi will eat watermeal readily, while grass carp may eat other plants first. Another option is to add a couple of ducks to the landscape. They’ll readily gobble up this annoying plant pest as long as it’s kept reasonably in check by other methods.
What is Watermeal?
Experienced garden pond owners shutter when the name is uttered because watermeal in ponds is big trouble for the backyard gardener. This aquatic weed can be a serious pain, but watermeal in ponds doesn’t have to mean draining your pond, yet again, to kill it back. There are several methods of effective watermeal control that work against the plant’s basic biology.
Watermeal (Wolffia spp.) are holds the unique position as the world’s smallest flowering plant, but it’s also one of the world’s most annoying pond weeds. This 1 to 1 1/2 millimeter long, grain-like plant is commonly found embedded among colonies of duckweed, where it’s barely visible to the naked eye. If you dip your hand into the pond, remove some of the duckweed and rub it between your palms, you’ll feel a grainy sensation – that’s the watermeal. It can occur on its own, but this is a much less common situation. Watermeal removal is most effective with a two-fold approach that includes eliminating the material that the watermeal is feeding on and employing pond creatures to feed upon the weed itself. Prevention is a much easier process than control, but both require the same tactics. Once watermeal is choking the pond, it may be much easier to drain the pond and clean it completely before implementing protective measures.
Controlling Watermeal Weeds
Watermeal feeds greedily off of rotting material on the bottom of your pond. This black sludge may not look like much to you, but for watermeal, it’s a veritable buffet. Any program of watermeal control has to include management of that build-up, so if there’s fertilizer or agricultural run-off moving into your pond, or the leaves from the tree above end up in your pond every year, the first step is to slow this input. Surface netting can help trap leaves, or you can fish them out of the pond daily with a pool net. Run-off may be slowed by building an earth berm around the pond. Once the addition of nutrients is managed, it’s a good idea to add a bubble aerator to the deepest area in the bottom of your pond to eliminate the stratification. The lack of oxygen in deeper waters can make it hard for bacteria to break down whatever waste does accumulate. By adding a bubbler, you’ll increase oxygen and pond circulation so that your pond plankton can consume the excess nutrients before watermeal has a chance to set in.
While the watermeal is at least somewhat controlled, you’ll want to introduce pond fish that eat this plant, like koi or grass carp. Koi will eat watermeal readily, while grass carp may eat other plants first. Another option is to add a couple of ducks to the landscape. They’ll readily gobble up this annoying plant pest as long as it’s kept reasonably in check by other methods.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Water lilies (Nymphaea spp.) are the perfect finishing touches for a garden pool or pond, adding practicality as well as beauty to a water feature. Fish use them as hiding places to escape predators and as shady retreats from the hot summer sun. Plants growing in a pond help keep the water clean and aerated, so you’ll spend less time on pond maintenance. Let’s take a look at how to grow a water lily.
Water lily plants can be divided into two types:
Hardy – Hardy types are best for northern climates where the water freezes in winter. As long as the roots of hardy specimens are below the level where the water freezes, they will reappear the following spring. Tropical – Tropical water lilies won’t survive in cold water and must be brought indoors for winter in all but the warmest areas. Many growers treat them as annuals, replanting them each year. Otherwise, remove them from the pond, clean them up, and store them in a bucket of moist sand in a cool basement before the first freeze. Tropical water lily plants can be further divided into two groups: day bloomers and night bloomers. White night bloomers look spectacular with nothing more than moonlight to illuminate them, but blues, purples, reds and pinks are very difficult to see in the dark. Avoid these colors unless the pond is illuminated by artificial light at night.
How to Grow a Water Lily
A pond or pool covered in water lilies is attractive, but complete coverage prevents light from penetrating into the water, choking out other plant and animal life. Growing water lilies in containers helps keep them from spreading and taking over a small pond and it makes water lily care much easier. When you are growing water lilies, use a large plastic pot with several holes punched in the sides and bottom. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the top with silt, loam or clay soil and mix in a small amount of slow-release fertilizer labeled for use with aquatic soil. Plant the rhizome close to one side of the pot at a 45-degree angle with the eye pointing up. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel, keeping the gravel away from the top of the rhizome as much as possible. The gravel keeps the soil from floating off or washing out of the pot.
Place the pot in the bottom of the pond, adjusting the depth to that recommended for your specific variety. Most call for a depth of between 6 and 18 inches. If necessary, you can raise the depth by placing the pot on top of rocks.
NOTE: For those having fish in their water garden, water lilies should NOT be potted in regular potting soil, as this contains a lot of organic material that will eventually rot and foul the water. Remove any rotting organic material from your pond or water garden, as this is a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria and pathogens and may add unwanted excess nutrients to feed algae blooms. Instead, pot water lilies, and any other pond plant, in a heavy clay soil and cover with fist sized rock, and then river rock to prevent fish from rooting around in the pot and sending the planting medium into the pond. A few simple preventative steps up front are far easier to take than trying to treat sick and dying fish later.
Water lily plants can be divided into two types:
Hardy – Hardy types are best for northern climates where the water freezes in winter. As long as the roots of hardy specimens are below the level where the water freezes, they will reappear the following spring. Tropical – Tropical water lilies won’t survive in cold water and must be brought indoors for winter in all but the warmest areas. Many growers treat them as annuals, replanting them each year. Otherwise, remove them from the pond, clean them up, and store them in a bucket of moist sand in a cool basement before the first freeze. Tropical water lily plants can be further divided into two groups: day bloomers and night bloomers. White night bloomers look spectacular with nothing more than moonlight to illuminate them, but blues, purples, reds and pinks are very difficult to see in the dark. Avoid these colors unless the pond is illuminated by artificial light at night.
How to Grow a Water Lily
A pond or pool covered in water lilies is attractive, but complete coverage prevents light from penetrating into the water, choking out other plant and animal life. Growing water lilies in containers helps keep them from spreading and taking over a small pond and it makes water lily care much easier. When you are growing water lilies, use a large plastic pot with several holes punched in the sides and bottom. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the top with silt, loam or clay soil and mix in a small amount of slow-release fertilizer labeled for use with aquatic soil. Plant the rhizome close to one side of the pot at a 45-degree angle with the eye pointing up. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel, keeping the gravel away from the top of the rhizome as much as possible. The gravel keeps the soil from floating off or washing out of the pot.
Place the pot in the bottom of the pond, adjusting the depth to that recommended for your specific variety. Most call for a depth of between 6 and 18 inches. If necessary, you can raise the depth by placing the pot on top of rocks.
NOTE: For those having fish in their water garden, water lilies should NOT be potted in regular potting soil, as this contains a lot of organic material that will eventually rot and foul the water. Remove any rotting organic material from your pond or water garden, as this is a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria and pathogens and may add unwanted excess nutrients to feed algae blooms. Instead, pot water lilies, and any other pond plant, in a heavy clay soil and cover with fist sized rock, and then river rock to prevent fish from rooting around in the pot and sending the planting medium into the pond. A few simple preventative steps up front are far easier to take than trying to treat sick and dying fish later.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Swamp mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos), also known as rose mallow hibiscus or swamp hibiscus, is a shrubby, moisture loving plant in the hibiscus family that provides big, showy flowers from mid-summer to autumn. The plant performs well along pond edges or other damp areas. This stunning, low-maintenance plant is available in a range of colors, including pink, peach, white, red, lavender and bi-color varieties.
How to Grow Rose Mallow
The easiest way to grow rose mallow is to purchase a plant at a garden center or nursery. However, growing rose mallow by seed isn’t difficult. Start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost in your area, or plant seeds directly in the garden after the last killing frost in spring.
Rose mallow benefits from rich soil amended with at least 2 or 3 inches of compost, manure or other organic material. Locate the plant in full sunlight. Although rose mallow tolerates partial shade, too much shade may result in leggy plants that are more susceptible to insect infestations. Allow at least 36 inches of growing space between each plant. Crowding the plant inhibits air circulation which may result in leaf spots, rust or other diseases.
Swamp Hibiscus Care
Swamp hibiscus plants are water-loving plants that will stop blooming in dry soil. However, the plant, which dies and enters a dormant period in winter, shouldn’t be watered until it displays new growth in spring. Once the plant is actively growing, it needs a deep watering two or three times per week during warm weather. Water is especially important during the first growing season, but the plant should always be watered immediately if it shows signs of wilt.
Feed rose mallow every six to eight weeks during the growing season, using a balanced, water-soluble plant fertilizer. Alternatively, use a slow-release fertilizer after the plant breaks dormancy in spring. Spread 2 or 3 inches of mulch around the plant to keep the roots moist and cool, and to keep weeds in check. Spray swamp mallow with insecticidal soap spray if the plant is damaged by pests such as aphids, whiteflies or scale.
How to Grow Rose Mallow
The easiest way to grow rose mallow is to purchase a plant at a garden center or nursery. However, growing rose mallow by seed isn’t difficult. Start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost in your area, or plant seeds directly in the garden after the last killing frost in spring.
Rose mallow benefits from rich soil amended with at least 2 or 3 inches of compost, manure or other organic material. Locate the plant in full sunlight. Although rose mallow tolerates partial shade, too much shade may result in leggy plants that are more susceptible to insect infestations. Allow at least 36 inches of growing space between each plant. Crowding the plant inhibits air circulation which may result in leaf spots, rust or other diseases.
Swamp Hibiscus Care
Swamp hibiscus plants are water-loving plants that will stop blooming in dry soil. However, the plant, which dies and enters a dormant period in winter, shouldn’t be watered until it displays new growth in spring. Once the plant is actively growing, it needs a deep watering two or three times per week during warm weather. Water is especially important during the first growing season, but the plant should always be watered immediately if it shows signs of wilt.
Feed rose mallow every six to eight weeks during the growing season, using a balanced, water-soluble plant fertilizer. Alternatively, use a slow-release fertilizer after the plant breaks dormancy in spring. Spread 2 or 3 inches of mulch around the plant to keep the roots moist and cool, and to keep weeds in check. Spray swamp mallow with insecticidal soap spray if the plant is damaged by pests such as aphids, whiteflies or scale.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Pass by any lake, pond, river or marsh that has been left to Mother Nature’s attention and you’ll find cattails (Typha latifolia). Ask anyone responsible for maintaining these same areas as part of an artificial landscape (like a garden) and opinions on those cattail plants or cattail control will be either “Aren’t they wonderful!” or “#@*&! weeds!” Unfortunately, both opinions have valid reasoning. When it comes to landscaping a natural pond (any natural body of water within your landscape), be careful. Cattails for the pond can be both a headache and a delight, but learning how to control cattails can tip the scales dramatically in their favor.
The Good Side of Cattail Plants
From a naturalist’s point of view, cattail plants are a wonder of nature where every part of the plant can be used to benefit a variety of species, including humans. These perennials are tall sturdy plants that can grow to almost 10 feet tall (2 meters). They have heavy, rhizomatous roots; long, flat leaves and long, cylindrical brown flower spikes that can add height and texture to the aquatic garden and will grow anywhere that supplies a constant source of water. Underwater, they provide a safe haven for tiny fish and attract many of the smaller aquatic creatures that birds and other wildlife feed on. They create a shelter from winter cold and wind for mammals and birds and a source of nesting material with their leaves and seeds. If you want to attract a wide variety of wildlife into your landscape, consider cattails for the pond. Humans have always benefited from the lowly cattail. Plants have been used for rush bottom furniture, baskets and mats. The downy seeds have been used to stuff pillows and mattresses and during World War II were used to stuff life jackets.
Native Americans were experts in using every part of the plant, not only for stuffing or the waterproof qualities of the leaf, but as a reliable food source. All parts of the cattail plant, from the roots to the flower heads are edible. The rootstock can be boiled or roasted, or dried and ground into a powdery flour. The center of the stalks is thick and starchy and the flower heads can be roasted for a nutty tasting treat. Cattail plants have industrial uses as well. Plant parts can be distilled into ethyl alcohol for antifreeze or an inexpensive solvent and the stems produce a sizing for shaving cream. What a versatile plant! And yet…
Tips on How to Control Cattails
Cattails for the pond come with a set of problems you may not want to deal with. Learning how to control cattails is a must, as these hardy plants can take over a pond in a matter of a few years. The reason for this lies in the reproductive capabilities of the cattail. Plants produce those wonderful, velvety ‘tails’. These are the flower heads and each head produces around 300,000 seeds, each equipped with its own little parachute to be borne on the wind. On a calm day, these little fluffs will fall straight to the ground around the parent plant and germinate quickly. Plucking those seed heads before they ripen won’t help, however. Those rhizomatous roots produce their own sets of offspring, eventually forming dense mats. Cattail control, therefore, is essential to the health and well-being of your pond and landscape. The good news is there are several methods available to the home gardener for how to control cattails, so hopefully one of them will appeal to you.
The first method of cattail control involves the application of herbicides. There are two chemicals, diquat and glyphosate, that are both effective and approved for aquatic use. Diquat is a contact herbicide. It will kill the green part of the plant, but not the root. It’s easy to use, but you’ll have to use it every year. Glyphosate is a systemic herbicide and will kill the root, although it may take several weeks to do the job. Your gardening or pond supply source should be able to help you find the brand names that contain these chemicals. The next methods of how two control cattails are considered mechanical. Choice one is to dig them up! This isn’t as easy as it sounds. Those cattail plants have massive root systems. For larger areas of overgrowth, a back-hoe may be needed. Another alternative is the drowning method, which can only be used if the plants’ bases are completely submerged underwater. All you have to do is cut the plants off two or three inches below the water surface. This deprives the plant of the air it needs and it will drown.
Growing Cattails in a Pot
Growing cattails in a pot is another method to consider when deciding on how to control your cattails. This is particularly suitable for the small natural pond or an artificial (plastic or rubber-lined) one. Growing cattails in pots eliminates root spread, keeping your plants in a confined space. Clay pots are ideal for this. They have the weight to keep them upright when submerged and can be partially buried in a boggy area. Their downside is their susceptibility to cracking under freezing conditions. Growing cattails in pots will not, however, totally eliminate propagation. Don’t forget those fluffy little seeds! You’ll still need to be vigilant in your cattail control.
The Good Side of Cattail Plants
From a naturalist’s point of view, cattail plants are a wonder of nature where every part of the plant can be used to benefit a variety of species, including humans. These perennials are tall sturdy plants that can grow to almost 10 feet tall (2 meters). They have heavy, rhizomatous roots; long, flat leaves and long, cylindrical brown flower spikes that can add height and texture to the aquatic garden and will grow anywhere that supplies a constant source of water. Underwater, they provide a safe haven for tiny fish and attract many of the smaller aquatic creatures that birds and other wildlife feed on. They create a shelter from winter cold and wind for mammals and birds and a source of nesting material with their leaves and seeds. If you want to attract a wide variety of wildlife into your landscape, consider cattails for the pond. Humans have always benefited from the lowly cattail. Plants have been used for rush bottom furniture, baskets and mats. The downy seeds have been used to stuff pillows and mattresses and during World War II were used to stuff life jackets.
Native Americans were experts in using every part of the plant, not only for stuffing or the waterproof qualities of the leaf, but as a reliable food source. All parts of the cattail plant, from the roots to the flower heads are edible. The rootstock can be boiled or roasted, or dried and ground into a powdery flour. The center of the stalks is thick and starchy and the flower heads can be roasted for a nutty tasting treat. Cattail plants have industrial uses as well. Plant parts can be distilled into ethyl alcohol for antifreeze or an inexpensive solvent and the stems produce a sizing for shaving cream. What a versatile plant! And yet…
Tips on How to Control Cattails
Cattails for the pond come with a set of problems you may not want to deal with. Learning how to control cattails is a must, as these hardy plants can take over a pond in a matter of a few years. The reason for this lies in the reproductive capabilities of the cattail. Plants produce those wonderful, velvety ‘tails’. These are the flower heads and each head produces around 300,000 seeds, each equipped with its own little parachute to be borne on the wind. On a calm day, these little fluffs will fall straight to the ground around the parent plant and germinate quickly. Plucking those seed heads before they ripen won’t help, however. Those rhizomatous roots produce their own sets of offspring, eventually forming dense mats. Cattail control, therefore, is essential to the health and well-being of your pond and landscape. The good news is there are several methods available to the home gardener for how to control cattails, so hopefully one of them will appeal to you.
The first method of cattail control involves the application of herbicides. There are two chemicals, diquat and glyphosate, that are both effective and approved for aquatic use. Diquat is a contact herbicide. It will kill the green part of the plant, but not the root. It’s easy to use, but you’ll have to use it every year. Glyphosate is a systemic herbicide and will kill the root, although it may take several weeks to do the job. Your gardening or pond supply source should be able to help you find the brand names that contain these chemicals. The next methods of how two control cattails are considered mechanical. Choice one is to dig them up! This isn’t as easy as it sounds. Those cattail plants have massive root systems. For larger areas of overgrowth, a back-hoe may be needed. Another alternative is the drowning method, which can only be used if the plants’ bases are completely submerged underwater. All you have to do is cut the plants off two or three inches below the water surface. This deprives the plant of the air it needs and it will drown.
Growing Cattails in a Pot
Growing cattails in a pot is another method to consider when deciding on how to control your cattails. This is particularly suitable for the small natural pond or an artificial (plastic or rubber-lined) one. Growing cattails in pots eliminates root spread, keeping your plants in a confined space. Clay pots are ideal for this. They have the weight to keep them upright when submerged and can be partially buried in a boggy area. Their downside is their susceptibility to cracking under freezing conditions. Growing cattails in pots will not, however, totally eliminate propagation. Don’t forget those fluffy little seeds! You’ll still need to be vigilant in your cattail control.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
It’s a common tale, you planted a few cattails in the shallow edges of your backyard pond and now you have a dense stand of cattails blocking your view and access to your shrinking pond. Cattails spread vigorously through underground rhizomes and seeds that seem to germinate as soon as they land in the water. They can also choke out other pond plants with their aggressive rhizomes and tall height that shades out smaller plants. On the plus side, cattails are one of the best natural filters for ponds, lakes, streams, etc. As they filter waterways, they take up valuable nutrients that can be used as soil amendments and mulch. Continue reading to learn about mulching with cattails.
Uses for Cattail Plants
Many species of cattails are native to the U.S. However, a lot of the more aggressive species we see in waterways now are introduced species or species that came into existence by natives and introduced species cross pollinating. For centuries, Native Americans used cattails for food, medicine and as a fiber for various items like shoes, clothing and bedding. Leftover remnants of the plant were then worked back into the earth. Presently, cattails are being researched for use as ethanol and methane fuels.
Cattail Mulch in Landscapes
Cattails as mulch or compost provide carbon, phosphorus and nitrogen to the garden. Cattails grow and reproduce quickly, making them a valuable renewable resource. As natural pond filters, they absorb fish and amphibian waste, which also benefit garden soil. Another benefit is that cattail seeds will not germinate in the garden, like many plants used as mulches can unfortunately do. The main drawback to making mulch from pond plants is that it can be rather unpleasant smelling to work with. Also, cattails are considered protected species in some areas and invasive species in other locations, so know your local laws before removing or planting wild plants. Cattails have a history of being used as a durable fiber. What this means when considering mulching with cattails is that it does not break down quickly or easily. If you are planning on using cattails as mulch or in the compost pile, you will need to chop it up with a mulcher or mower. Mix in wood chips and/or yarrow plants to speed up decomposition.
Cattails growing in ponds will probably need some manual control once a year. The best time to do this is midsummer when the plants have had time to store up valuable nutrients but are not yet spending them on seed production – if you are planning to use them as mulch or compost. Cattails can be pulled out by hand or cut below water level to control and utilize them. If you have a large pond or plans to mulch/compost cattails on a grand level, they can be dredged out with heavy equipment. Again, be aware of local laws regarding cattails before doing anything with them.
Uses for Cattail Plants
Many species of cattails are native to the U.S. However, a lot of the more aggressive species we see in waterways now are introduced species or species that came into existence by natives and introduced species cross pollinating. For centuries, Native Americans used cattails for food, medicine and as a fiber for various items like shoes, clothing and bedding. Leftover remnants of the plant were then worked back into the earth. Presently, cattails are being researched for use as ethanol and methane fuels.
Cattail Mulch in Landscapes
Cattails as mulch or compost provide carbon, phosphorus and nitrogen to the garden. Cattails grow and reproduce quickly, making them a valuable renewable resource. As natural pond filters, they absorb fish and amphibian waste, which also benefit garden soil. Another benefit is that cattail seeds will not germinate in the garden, like many plants used as mulches can unfortunately do. The main drawback to making mulch from pond plants is that it can be rather unpleasant smelling to work with. Also, cattails are considered protected species in some areas and invasive species in other locations, so know your local laws before removing or planting wild plants. Cattails have a history of being used as a durable fiber. What this means when considering mulching with cattails is that it does not break down quickly or easily. If you are planning on using cattails as mulch or in the compost pile, you will need to chop it up with a mulcher or mower. Mix in wood chips and/or yarrow plants to speed up decomposition.
Cattails growing in ponds will probably need some manual control once a year. The best time to do this is midsummer when the plants have had time to store up valuable nutrients but are not yet spending them on seed production – if you are planning to use them as mulch or compost. Cattails can be pulled out by hand or cut below water level to control and utilize them. If you have a large pond or plans to mulch/compost cattails on a grand level, they can be dredged out with heavy equipment. Again, be aware of local laws regarding cattails before doing anything with them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月13日
Flowering - May - September.
Habitat - Pond margins, creeks, sloughs, marshes, ditches, in mud.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This aquatic species can be found scattered throughout much of Missouri but is apparently absent from the northwest quarter of the state. The plant is similar to another, A. subcordatum Raf., but the latter has petals which are equal to or shorter than the sepals and smaller fruits. A. subcordatum is more common in the state.
Plants of this genus are eaten by wildlife such as muskrats. The rhizomes are eaten as well as the leaves. Humans eat the roots as well.
Habitat - Pond margins, creeks, sloughs, marshes, ditches, in mud.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This aquatic species can be found scattered throughout much of Missouri but is apparently absent from the northwest quarter of the state. The plant is similar to another, A. subcordatum Raf., but the latter has petals which are equal to or shorter than the sepals and smaller fruits. A. subcordatum is more common in the state.
Plants of this genus are eaten by wildlife such as muskrats. The rhizomes are eaten as well as the leaves. Humans eat the roots as well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月12日
Family - Asteraceae
Stems - No info. yet.
Leaves - No info. yet.
Involucre - No info. yet.
Ray flowers - Absent.
Disk flowers - No info. yet.
Flowering - July - October.
Habitat - Swampy woods, ditches, fence rows, pond margins.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This vining species can be found in the southeast corner of Missouri. The plant is very easy to identify in the field because of its vining habit, opposite, sagittate leaves, and umbels of whitish flower heads. This is a weedy species which can grow very long very quickly. It is probably not the best choice to plant around a water garden. The plant is, however, frequently visited by many different types of flying insects. The genus Mikania is a large cosmopolitan genus confined mostly to the tropics.
Stems - No info. yet.
Leaves - No info. yet.
Involucre - No info. yet.
Ray flowers - Absent.
Disk flowers - No info. yet.
Flowering - July - October.
Habitat - Swampy woods, ditches, fence rows, pond margins.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This vining species can be found in the southeast corner of Missouri. The plant is very easy to identify in the field because of its vining habit, opposite, sagittate leaves, and umbels of whitish flower heads. This is a weedy species which can grow very long very quickly. It is probably not the best choice to plant around a water garden. The plant is, however, frequently visited by many different types of flying insects. The genus Mikania is a large cosmopolitan genus confined mostly to the tropics.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月12日
Family - Verbenaceae
Stems - No info. yet.
Leaves - No info. yet.
Inflorescence - No info. yet.
Flowers - No info. yet.
Flowering - May - October.
Habitat - Moist to wet areas, streambanks, pond margins.
Origin - Native to U.S., tropical America, Europe.
Other info. - This small species is found in only one or two Missouri counties. The prostrate nature of the plant, plus the obovate leaves and long peduncles, distinguish it from the other Missouri species, L. lanceolata Michx..
Stems - No info. yet.
Leaves - No info. yet.
Inflorescence - No info. yet.
Flowers - No info. yet.
Flowering - May - October.
Habitat - Moist to wet areas, streambanks, pond margins.
Origin - Native to U.S., tropical America, Europe.
Other info. - This small species is found in only one or two Missouri counties. The prostrate nature of the plant, plus the obovate leaves and long peduncles, distinguish it from the other Missouri species, L. lanceolata Michx..
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