文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月22日
The coral bean shrub (Erythrina herbacea) is easy to grow, grows at a moderate rate, and requires little attention once established. It is attractive and showy with almost year-round interest. The coral bean is adorned with gorgeous ornamental, tubular flowers. In the summer and into the fall, the flowers turn into long pods with brilliant red seeds inside. The foliage of the coral bean is heart-shaped and glossy dark green. The trunk and branches are covered in small curved thorns. The tubular flowers are also highly attractive to hummingbirds drawn to the sweet nectar inside them. Only plant this shrub in the ground in hardiness zone 8 (Pacific Northwest or American South) or higher or else it will die. The best time to plant it is in the spring.
Botanical Name Erythrina herbacea
Common Name Coral bean, red cardinal, cardinal spear, mamou plant
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 8–10 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH 5.4 to 7.6 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 8–11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Coral Bean Care
The coral bean is native to Mexico and parts of the United States. It is a low-maintenance flowering perennial shrub that readily grows in warm-season climates around the world. Once established, the coral bean requires little maintenance. As a result, it makes a great addition to a garden bed or shrub border. The coral bean shrub is also salt-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for gardeners living on coastal landscapes.
For the winter, place the coral bean plants in a greenhouse and plant in late spring or early summer. If left out, the plant will die in hardiness zones cooler than 8, such as in the Northeast.
Light
The coral bean shrub blooms most profusely when grown in a full sun location. However, it can tolerate dappled sun, as it naturally occurs along the edge of woodlands and forests.
Soil
The coral bean is adaptable to a wide range of soil types but appreciates sandy, acidic soil. Ensure that the potting medium is well-draining as the coral bean’s roots cannot tolerate sitting in water.
Water
For the first growing season, water the coral bean once a week to help encourage growth. This shrub does not tolerate "wet feet" and should never be left waterlogged. Once established, the coral bean is considered to be a drought-tolerant shrub and may only require supplemental watering during abnormally long dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
To survive as a perennial, the coral bean requires warm temperatures and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 11. In regions that experience cold winters with freezing temperatures, the coral bean can be grown as an annual.
Fertilizer
Once established, the coral bean shrub does not require regular fertilizing. However, young plants benefit from fertilization in the spring to help boost growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. This shrub also benefits from annual mulching to help retain moisture and protect the sensitive root system from cold temperatures.
Pruning
The coral bean does not require heavy pruning but appreciates light yearly maintenance and general upkeep. Do not prune during the first growing season. In the spring of the second growing season, prune any dead or cold-damaged growth and trim to shape where necessary.
Propagating Coral Bean
You can propagate the coral bean shrub via semi-hardwood cuttings and division. Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken in the late summer or early fall, once the stems are almost fully mature. The shrub can technically be propagated by division of the root ball at any time, but it is best to do so once the coral bean is well established with excess growth that you can easily separate. At the same time, both methods can successfully propagate the coral bean. It is usually most efficient to start with a nursery-grown plant or well-established shrub as propagation success rates are variable.
How to Grow Coral Bean From Seed
Coral bean seeds can be purchased from a nursery or garden center or collected directly from the plant. You can collect the seeds in the late summer or early fall. Be sure to always wear protective gloves when handling coral bean seeds as the seeds are poisonous (primarily if ingested). To increase the germination rate, coral bean seeds benefit from scarification. Plant seeds in the ground after the threat of frost and once the temperatures are consistently warm. If you are planting several shrubs together, ensure the seeds are spaced between 3 to 5 feet apart when sowing.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bean
Coral bean may be grown in a container, usually in the northern states. It is best placed in full sun with southern exposure. Protect it from freezing.
Botanical Name Erythrina herbacea
Common Name Coral bean, red cardinal, cardinal spear, mamou plant
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 8–10 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH 5.4 to 7.6 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 8–11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Coral Bean Care
The coral bean is native to Mexico and parts of the United States. It is a low-maintenance flowering perennial shrub that readily grows in warm-season climates around the world. Once established, the coral bean requires little maintenance. As a result, it makes a great addition to a garden bed or shrub border. The coral bean shrub is also salt-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for gardeners living on coastal landscapes.
For the winter, place the coral bean plants in a greenhouse and plant in late spring or early summer. If left out, the plant will die in hardiness zones cooler than 8, such as in the Northeast.
Light
The coral bean shrub blooms most profusely when grown in a full sun location. However, it can tolerate dappled sun, as it naturally occurs along the edge of woodlands and forests.
Soil
The coral bean is adaptable to a wide range of soil types but appreciates sandy, acidic soil. Ensure that the potting medium is well-draining as the coral bean’s roots cannot tolerate sitting in water.
Water
For the first growing season, water the coral bean once a week to help encourage growth. This shrub does not tolerate "wet feet" and should never be left waterlogged. Once established, the coral bean is considered to be a drought-tolerant shrub and may only require supplemental watering during abnormally long dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
To survive as a perennial, the coral bean requires warm temperatures and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 11. In regions that experience cold winters with freezing temperatures, the coral bean can be grown as an annual.
Fertilizer
Once established, the coral bean shrub does not require regular fertilizing. However, young plants benefit from fertilization in the spring to help boost growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. This shrub also benefits from annual mulching to help retain moisture and protect the sensitive root system from cold temperatures.
Pruning
The coral bean does not require heavy pruning but appreciates light yearly maintenance and general upkeep. Do not prune during the first growing season. In the spring of the second growing season, prune any dead or cold-damaged growth and trim to shape where necessary.
Propagating Coral Bean
You can propagate the coral bean shrub via semi-hardwood cuttings and division. Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken in the late summer or early fall, once the stems are almost fully mature. The shrub can technically be propagated by division of the root ball at any time, but it is best to do so once the coral bean is well established with excess growth that you can easily separate. At the same time, both methods can successfully propagate the coral bean. It is usually most efficient to start with a nursery-grown plant or well-established shrub as propagation success rates are variable.
How to Grow Coral Bean From Seed
Coral bean seeds can be purchased from a nursery or garden center or collected directly from the plant. You can collect the seeds in the late summer or early fall. Be sure to always wear protective gloves when handling coral bean seeds as the seeds are poisonous (primarily if ingested). To increase the germination rate, coral bean seeds benefit from scarification. Plant seeds in the ground after the threat of frost and once the temperatures are consistently warm. If you are planting several shrubs together, ensure the seeds are spaced between 3 to 5 feet apart when sowing.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bean
Coral bean may be grown in a container, usually in the northern states. It is best placed in full sun with southern exposure. Protect it from freezing.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月15日
The Plectranthus genus is large, with more than 350 species of annuals, perennials, semi-succulents, and shrubs from Africa, Madagascar, Asia, Australia, and Pacific Islands. Members of the genus come in a variety of colors and sizes. But the blue spur flower (Plectranthus barbatus) stands out for its large, upright bushy structure. Also known by the botanical name Coleus barbatus, this plant is native to Africa but has spread abundantly.
These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers.
Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors.
Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus
Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late summer to early fall
Flower Color Lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care
Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy.
Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures.
Light
Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens.
For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results.
Soil
These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering.
Water
The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost.
As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter.
Fertilizer
The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely.
Potting and Repotting
The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage.
Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must.
Propagating Blue Spur Flower
The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how:
1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting.
Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers.
Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors.
Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus
Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late summer to early fall
Flower Color Lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care
Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy.
Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures.
Light
Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens.
For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results.
Soil
These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering.
Water
The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost.
As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter.
Fertilizer
The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely.
Potting and Repotting
The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage.
Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must.
Propagating Blue Spur Flower
The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how:
1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting.
Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Tiny ghost lilies (Lilium asiatic "Tiny Ghost") grow to reach about 12 to 18 inches high and do not require staking as do some lily varieties. They produce burgundy, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom during the summer and make excellent cut flowers for floral arrangements. Because tiny ghost lilies are cultivars in the Asiatic lily family, they are quite cold hardy and fairly easy to care for compared with other types of lilies.
Step 1
Plant tiny ghost lilies in soil that drains water well. Till the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as leaf mold, compost or peat, before planting. This improves the drainage and adds essential nutrients to the soil. Never plant them in soil that frequently has standing water.
Step 2
Fertilize tiny ghost lilies in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Use the recommended rates listed on the label.
Step 3
Water tiny ghost lilies in the morning so the leaves have sufficient time to dry out before nightfall. This practice helps prevent fungal and foliar diseases. Water them two to three times a week for the first month after planting while they are becoming established. After that ghost lilies typically will need water only during droughts during the growing season.
Step 4
Clip off spent tiny ghost lily flowers when they fade to encourage more blooms. Clip off only the flower just beneath the bloom, using hand clippers.
Step 5
Cut down the plants in the fall when the plant dies back. Do not cut them down when the leaves are still green because tiny ghost lilies are busy photosynthesizing sunlight into energy, which they will use next year.
Step 6
Cover tiny ghost lilies with 4 to 6 inches of mulch the first winter just as the ground begins to freeze, especially in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 and 5. For subsequent winters, cover them only in areas where snowfall is not dependable. Remove the mulch in the spring after the last hard frost.
Step 1
Plant tiny ghost lilies in soil that drains water well. Till the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as leaf mold, compost or peat, before planting. This improves the drainage and adds essential nutrients to the soil. Never plant them in soil that frequently has standing water.
Step 2
Fertilize tiny ghost lilies in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Use the recommended rates listed on the label.
Step 3
Water tiny ghost lilies in the morning so the leaves have sufficient time to dry out before nightfall. This practice helps prevent fungal and foliar diseases. Water them two to three times a week for the first month after planting while they are becoming established. After that ghost lilies typically will need water only during droughts during the growing season.
Step 4
Clip off spent tiny ghost lily flowers when they fade to encourage more blooms. Clip off only the flower just beneath the bloom, using hand clippers.
Step 5
Cut down the plants in the fall when the plant dies back. Do not cut them down when the leaves are still green because tiny ghost lilies are busy photosynthesizing sunlight into energy, which they will use next year.
Step 6
Cover tiny ghost lilies with 4 to 6 inches of mulch the first winter just as the ground begins to freeze, especially in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 and 5. For subsequent winters, cover them only in areas where snowfall is not dependable. Remove the mulch in the spring after the last hard frost.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Both blueberries and black currants are small, dark-colored berries that grow in dense clusters on the branches of their bushes. The similarities end there, however -- the two types of plants are quite different in both their growth preferences and the flavor of their berries.
Blueberry Types and Growth Habits
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are deciduous shrubs that produce clusters of small purple-blue berries in the summer. The sweet berries are highly desirable as a fresh fruit, and are a favorite food of wildlife.
The size of the bushes varies depending on the species. Full-sized bushes, called highbush blueberries, may grow as high as 5 feet with a similar spread, and some varieties of heat-loving rabbiteye blueberries may grow to twice that height. Low-growing species, called lowbush blueberries, tend to hug the ground and may get no taller than a foot or two. Hybrids of lowbush and highbush types, called half-high bushes, grow to somewhere in between and have been developed largely for their cold tolerance.
Black Currant Types and Growth Habits
The European black currant (Ribes nigrum) is a deciduous shrub that reaches a height of about 6 feet. American black currant (Ribes americanum), also sometimes called wild black currant, is a low-growing shrub that generally grows to between 3 and 6 feet in height; it is native to North America and is considered an invasive weed in some areas.
Both species produce small, purple-black berries in the summer. The flavor of the berries is significantly more tart than that of blueberries, and black currants are more often used in jams and jellies than they are eaten fresh.
Soil Preferences
Blueberries' need for acidic soil is one of the plant's defining characteristics; blueberries simply will not flourish or produce well unless they're grown in soil with a pH level between 4 and 5. Black currants, by contrast, don't like acidic soil and do best when the soil pH is near neutral, with a level between 6.7 and 7. However, both plants like well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. Blueberries are especially intolerant of excessive moisture, and their shallow root systems are easily damaged by standing water.
Winter Hardiness
European black currants are winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 8; wild black currants are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 6. The bushes can withstand winter cold in these zones, but their flowers may be damaged by freezing temperatures in the spring. Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are somewhat more sensitive to cold and more tolerant of heat; they are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are, in general, more cold hardy; some varieties are hardy in USDA zones 2 to 8. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) are the least cold tolerant of the blueberry species -- they can handle winters only in USDA zones 8 to 10.
Blueberry Types and Growth Habits
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are deciduous shrubs that produce clusters of small purple-blue berries in the summer. The sweet berries are highly desirable as a fresh fruit, and are a favorite food of wildlife.
The size of the bushes varies depending on the species. Full-sized bushes, called highbush blueberries, may grow as high as 5 feet with a similar spread, and some varieties of heat-loving rabbiteye blueberries may grow to twice that height. Low-growing species, called lowbush blueberries, tend to hug the ground and may get no taller than a foot or two. Hybrids of lowbush and highbush types, called half-high bushes, grow to somewhere in between and have been developed largely for their cold tolerance.
Black Currant Types and Growth Habits
The European black currant (Ribes nigrum) is a deciduous shrub that reaches a height of about 6 feet. American black currant (Ribes americanum), also sometimes called wild black currant, is a low-growing shrub that generally grows to between 3 and 6 feet in height; it is native to North America and is considered an invasive weed in some areas.
Both species produce small, purple-black berries in the summer. The flavor of the berries is significantly more tart than that of blueberries, and black currants are more often used in jams and jellies than they are eaten fresh.
Soil Preferences
Blueberries' need for acidic soil is one of the plant's defining characteristics; blueberries simply will not flourish or produce well unless they're grown in soil with a pH level between 4 and 5. Black currants, by contrast, don't like acidic soil and do best when the soil pH is near neutral, with a level between 6.7 and 7. However, both plants like well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. Blueberries are especially intolerant of excessive moisture, and their shallow root systems are easily damaged by standing water.
Winter Hardiness
European black currants are winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 8; wild black currants are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 6. The bushes can withstand winter cold in these zones, but their flowers may be damaged by freezing temperatures in the spring. Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are somewhat more sensitive to cold and more tolerant of heat; they are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are, in general, more cold hardy; some varieties are hardy in USDA zones 2 to 8. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) are the least cold tolerant of the blueberry species -- they can handle winters only in USDA zones 8 to 10.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Flowering plants, or Angiosperms (described taxonomically as the division Magnoliophyta) are the largest grouping within the plant kingdom (Kingdom Plantae or Viridiplantae) in terms of the numbers of described species. Approximately 260,000 species of flowering plant have been named so far, constituting nearly 90% of all known species of plants. Even so, taxonomists describe many new species annually, and estimates of total angiosperm diversity reach as high as 400,000 species. There are about 450 families of flowering plants, displaying extremely diverse life histories and ecological adaptations. In addition to dominating plant biodiversity, angiosperms are the dominant photosynthetic organisms (primary producers) in most terrestrial ecosystems (an important exception to this rule are the boreal forests, which are often dominated by conifers). All important food plants are angiosperms.
Natural History
Angiosperms are also the youngest of the plant divisions, having arisen relatively late in the history of terrestrial plant life. The first land plants are about 450 million years old, but the earliest definitive angiosperm fossils are only about 130 million years old, placing their known origins within the Early Cretaceous period. However, indirect evidence leads some scientists to estimate that angiosperms may have originated as early as 250 million years ago, that is, at the end of the Permian period.
By about 100 million years ago, during the Late Cretaceous period, angiosperms experienced a rapid diversification in form. The factors driving this diversification have long been of interest to evolutionary biologists. Many scientists hypothesize that specialized mutualistic relationships with animal pollinators played an important role in the development of angiosperm diversity (and perhaps insect diversity as well).
Physiological Characteristics and Behavior
Angiosperms are anatomically distinguished from other plant groups by several developmental and anatomical features. They produce flowers, which are very short branches bearing a series of closely spaced leaves modified to facilitate pollination (sepals and petals) or to bear the organs involved in sexual reproduction (stamens and pistils). Developing seeds are completely enclosed in an ovary derived from a portion of the pistil (the word angiosperm is of Greek derivation, meaning covered seed). Ovary tissues mature to form a fruit that is generally involved in protecting the seed and facilitating its dispersal (only angiosperms bear true fruits). Seeds at some point in their development contain a distinctive tissue, the triploid endosperm, which serves as a nutritional reserve for the developing embryo.
Angiosperms That May Interest You
Angiosperms comprise such a large group, it is difficult to single out a mere few of the most intriguing, but here are some of the most important and diverse (and delicious!) flowering plant families.
The composite or daisy family (Asteraceae) has about 24,000 named species, and may be the largest plant family. The orchid family (Orchidaceae) rivals the Daisy family in diversity, with about 17,000 species named. The Grass family (Poaceae), with over 10,000 species, includes three of the four most productive human-food plants: Rice (Oryza), Eheat (Triticum) and Maize (Zea). The fourth, the Potato (Solanum tuberosum), is a member of the Nightshade family (Solanaceae). The bean (or legume) family (Fabaceae, also known as Papilionaceae) includes about 19,000 species, many of which are important in human food because their symbiotic association with certain nitrogen-fixing bacteria leads to unusually high protein content.
Natural History
Angiosperms are also the youngest of the plant divisions, having arisen relatively late in the history of terrestrial plant life. The first land plants are about 450 million years old, but the earliest definitive angiosperm fossils are only about 130 million years old, placing their known origins within the Early Cretaceous period. However, indirect evidence leads some scientists to estimate that angiosperms may have originated as early as 250 million years ago, that is, at the end of the Permian period.
By about 100 million years ago, during the Late Cretaceous period, angiosperms experienced a rapid diversification in form. The factors driving this diversification have long been of interest to evolutionary biologists. Many scientists hypothesize that specialized mutualistic relationships with animal pollinators played an important role in the development of angiosperm diversity (and perhaps insect diversity as well).
Physiological Characteristics and Behavior
Angiosperms are anatomically distinguished from other plant groups by several developmental and anatomical features. They produce flowers, which are very short branches bearing a series of closely spaced leaves modified to facilitate pollination (sepals and petals) or to bear the organs involved in sexual reproduction (stamens and pistils). Developing seeds are completely enclosed in an ovary derived from a portion of the pistil (the word angiosperm is of Greek derivation, meaning covered seed). Ovary tissues mature to form a fruit that is generally involved in protecting the seed and facilitating its dispersal (only angiosperms bear true fruits). Seeds at some point in their development contain a distinctive tissue, the triploid endosperm, which serves as a nutritional reserve for the developing embryo.
Angiosperms That May Interest You
Angiosperms comprise such a large group, it is difficult to single out a mere few of the most intriguing, but here are some of the most important and diverse (and delicious!) flowering plant families.
The composite or daisy family (Asteraceae) has about 24,000 named species, and may be the largest plant family. The orchid family (Orchidaceae) rivals the Daisy family in diversity, with about 17,000 species named. The Grass family (Poaceae), with over 10,000 species, includes three of the four most productive human-food plants: Rice (Oryza), Eheat (Triticum) and Maize (Zea). The fourth, the Potato (Solanum tuberosum), is a member of the Nightshade family (Solanaceae). The bean (or legume) family (Fabaceae, also known as Papilionaceae) includes about 19,000 species, many of which are important in human food because their symbiotic association with certain nitrogen-fixing bacteria leads to unusually high protein content.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The genus Kalanchoe includes more than 100 plants, but only a few are regularly seen in cultivation. Kalanchoes are native to arid areas, and they are popular succulents. Modern hybrids are valued for their interesting leaf-forms or for their flowers.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
2
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Hoya plant is known for its thick leaves and a characteristic shape. They are climbing and clambering so they make a very interesting sight in any home. Hoyas are also known as The Hindu Rope or Wax Plant. They are wax-stemmed and produce beautiful flowers. Many people like to grow them in their home, balcony or garden.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. Hoyas plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
Hoyas are native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia. There are many species, but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: A north window is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
Water: Keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates more frequent watering may be necessary. Some like to mist the leaves frequently, to clean them and increase humidity…but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: A moist, well-drained, light soil – African Violet soil with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Fertilizer: In spring Hoyas react favorably to feeding. A liquid food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth. Withhold food during the winter.
Propagation
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African Violets and Gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant when roots have formed.
Grower’s Tips
Hoya plants don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil, and as many grow as epiphytes in nature (similar to bromeliads and orchids). Give them at least a half day of sunshine, and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
When your Hoyas finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. They are light feeders, and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot, and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Design Tips
Place your Hoya plant in a hanging basket where you can admire it from your favorite seat on the deck or porch. Hoyas will cling to a small trellis, providing a vertical accent in your tropical container garden. A Hoya plant would appreciate the humid conditions alongside any pond, fountain, or other water feature in your landscape.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. Hoyas plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
Hoyas are native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia. There are many species, but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: A north window is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
Water: Keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates more frequent watering may be necessary. Some like to mist the leaves frequently, to clean them and increase humidity…but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: A moist, well-drained, light soil – African Violet soil with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Fertilizer: In spring Hoyas react favorably to feeding. A liquid food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth. Withhold food during the winter.
Propagation
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African Violets and Gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant when roots have formed.
Grower’s Tips
Hoya plants don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil, and as many grow as epiphytes in nature (similar to bromeliads and orchids). Give them at least a half day of sunshine, and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C).
When your Hoyas finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. They are light feeders, and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot, and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Design Tips
Place your Hoya plant in a hanging basket where you can admire it from your favorite seat on the deck or porch. Hoyas will cling to a small trellis, providing a vertical accent in your tropical container garden. A Hoya plant would appreciate the humid conditions alongside any pond, fountain, or other water feature in your landscape.
2
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Description
The Green-winged Orchid is not as common as the Early Purple Orchid Orchis mascula and, on close inspection, can be identified by the distinct parallel greenish veins on either side of the hood formed by the tepals on the upper part of the flower. These veins are never found on the Early Purple Orchid. The colour of the flowers can vary from deep purple to very pale pink (as below). Occasionally white forms are found - see below.
Distribution
The Green-winged Orchid can be found throughout the UK, in many European countries including Slovenia and Bulgaria, and in North Africa and the Near East.
This lovely orchid is in serious decline in the UK, and it is also thought to have become extinct in The Burren in Ireland due to destruction of its preferred habitat of old, umimproved, species-rich meadows.
We have seen Green-winged Orchids at Kenfig National Nature Reserve in South Wales, and there are marvellous displays of Green-winged Orchids each spring in a large grassy area, which is managed without the use of herbicides and pesticides, at Bristol Waterworks.
Habitat
Green-winged Orchids cannot tolerate the kind of chemical intervention favoured by the farmers of today in order to maximise on crop production.
In Mediterranean countries where traditional farming methods continue to be used, it is still possible to find large numbers of these beautiful orchids along with some of their close relatives, the Champagne Orchid Anacamptis morio subsp. champagneuxii and the Long-spurred Orchid Anacamptis morio subsp. longicornu. The Algarve region of Portugal is a particularly good place to see these orchids.
Flowering times
In the UK Green-winged Orchid flowers in May and June. In the Mediterranean region the flowers appear from late March to the beginning of June.
The Green-winged Orchid is not as common as the Early Purple Orchid Orchis mascula and, on close inspection, can be identified by the distinct parallel greenish veins on either side of the hood formed by the tepals on the upper part of the flower. These veins are never found on the Early Purple Orchid. The colour of the flowers can vary from deep purple to very pale pink (as below). Occasionally white forms are found - see below.
Distribution
The Green-winged Orchid can be found throughout the UK, in many European countries including Slovenia and Bulgaria, and in North Africa and the Near East.
This lovely orchid is in serious decline in the UK, and it is also thought to have become extinct in The Burren in Ireland due to destruction of its preferred habitat of old, umimproved, species-rich meadows.
We have seen Green-winged Orchids at Kenfig National Nature Reserve in South Wales, and there are marvellous displays of Green-winged Orchids each spring in a large grassy area, which is managed without the use of herbicides and pesticides, at Bristol Waterworks.
Habitat
Green-winged Orchids cannot tolerate the kind of chemical intervention favoured by the farmers of today in order to maximise on crop production.
In Mediterranean countries where traditional farming methods continue to be used, it is still possible to find large numbers of these beautiful orchids along with some of their close relatives, the Champagne Orchid Anacamptis morio subsp. champagneuxii and the Long-spurred Orchid Anacamptis morio subsp. longicornu. The Algarve region of Portugal is a particularly good place to see these orchids.
Flowering times
In the UK Green-winged Orchid flowers in May and June. In the Mediterranean region the flowers appear from late March to the beginning of June.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Gypsophilia, popularly known as Baby's Breath, is a bushy plant with branching habit bearing dainty small flowers on long slender stems. It is native to Central and Eastern Europe. Baby's Breath is a tender and delicate annual. Gypsophilia is a popular flower to accent bouquets, corsages and flower vases, especially as dried flower., besides being a popular flower in the home garden as well.
Facts About Gypsophilia
Gypsophilia is distributed throughout the Northern Hemisphere.
Most commonly known as "Baby's breath", the tiny gypsophilia flower is produced on numerous, fragile stems and is most commonly used a filler, but is widely enjoyed as a dried flower, especially as an accent at Christmas.
Gypsophilia is available year round.
"Baby's Breath" is available in either pink or white varieties. Perhaps the most popular variety is called Million Star. Two other varieties commonly found are New Love and Party Time.
Gypsophila is primarily used as a fill er flower to accent greens and fill voids between flowers.
Baby's Breath makes a very nice dried flower that can be used to decorate any thing from wreaths to craft projects.
.The dainty flowered Gypsophila is commonly used in floral arrangements and gypsophilia plants bring beauty to the garden when grown in clumps.
Varieties of Gypsophilia
Gypsophilia elegans- Tall annual summer flower with clouds of tiny blooms.
Gypsophilia muralis - Annual plant types for borders and bedding.
Gypsophilia paniculata (Baby's Breath) - Perennial variety with tall, multi-branched stems and clusters of tiny, delicate flowers, which can be good filler in bouquets.
Gypsophilia repens - Low-growing perennial trailing plants for borders and rock gardens.
Propagation of Gypsophilia
Seeds are the main means of propagation for Baby's Breath. You can directly sow the seeds of Gypsophilia into your flower garden or start indoors for a jump start on the year. Sow them after the soil has begun to warm in the spring. Baby's Breath do not like frost, so if started indoors, transplant them outdoors after the last frost date. Space plants eight inches apart.
How to Grow Gypsophilia
Baby's Breath like full to partial sun.
They prefer rich, light soils, and are not fond of clay.
They also do not like dry conditions. Their rapid growth demands that they are watered during dry periods.
Add a general purpose fertilizer before planting if the soil is poor.
Once your Baby's Breath germinates in 10 to 15 days, they will grow rapidly. For a continuous bloom, plant them in succession every two to three weeks.
Insect and disease problems are not too common. If insect or disease problems occur, treat early with organic or chemical insect repellents and fungicide.
Gypsophilia Plant Care
Place 4-8 inches of cool water in a clean bucket and add preservative according to the manufacture's instructions on the package. (Use warm water -at most 100 F -if the buds are tight , in order to promote more rapid opening.)
Remove the gypsophilia from its sleeve and fluff the bunches for better air circulation.Cut the stems 2 inches and place in the solution.
Avoid overcrowding the bucket, placing approximately 4-6 bunches per bucket after fluffing.
Keep the flowers away from sources of ethylene gas such as ripe fruits and decaying plant material. Sources of carbon monoxide must also be avoided.
Sensitive to heat, drafts and other drying environments.
After two days in the solution, place the flowers in clean water. This water should be changed every day and the stems should be trimmed approximately 0.5 inch every two or three days to promote longevity.
Baby's -Breath is ethylene- and water-stress sensitive. Water stress can rapidly induce ethylene production and thereby reduce flower life. In short, do not allow flowers to dry (inside or outside coolers), as shorter life will surely result.
Facts About Gypsophilia
Gypsophilia is distributed throughout the Northern Hemisphere.
Most commonly known as "Baby's breath", the tiny gypsophilia flower is produced on numerous, fragile stems and is most commonly used a filler, but is widely enjoyed as a dried flower, especially as an accent at Christmas.
Gypsophilia is available year round.
"Baby's Breath" is available in either pink or white varieties. Perhaps the most popular variety is called Million Star. Two other varieties commonly found are New Love and Party Time.
Gypsophila is primarily used as a fill er flower to accent greens and fill voids between flowers.
Baby's Breath makes a very nice dried flower that can be used to decorate any thing from wreaths to craft projects.
.The dainty flowered Gypsophila is commonly used in floral arrangements and gypsophilia plants bring beauty to the garden when grown in clumps.
Varieties of Gypsophilia
Gypsophilia elegans- Tall annual summer flower with clouds of tiny blooms.
Gypsophilia muralis - Annual plant types for borders and bedding.
Gypsophilia paniculata (Baby's Breath) - Perennial variety with tall, multi-branched stems and clusters of tiny, delicate flowers, which can be good filler in bouquets.
Gypsophilia repens - Low-growing perennial trailing plants for borders and rock gardens.
Propagation of Gypsophilia
Seeds are the main means of propagation for Baby's Breath. You can directly sow the seeds of Gypsophilia into your flower garden or start indoors for a jump start on the year. Sow them after the soil has begun to warm in the spring. Baby's Breath do not like frost, so if started indoors, transplant them outdoors after the last frost date. Space plants eight inches apart.
How to Grow Gypsophilia
Baby's Breath like full to partial sun.
They prefer rich, light soils, and are not fond of clay.
They also do not like dry conditions. Their rapid growth demands that they are watered during dry periods.
Add a general purpose fertilizer before planting if the soil is poor.
Once your Baby's Breath germinates in 10 to 15 days, they will grow rapidly. For a continuous bloom, plant them in succession every two to three weeks.
Insect and disease problems are not too common. If insect or disease problems occur, treat early with organic or chemical insect repellents and fungicide.
Gypsophilia Plant Care
Place 4-8 inches of cool water in a clean bucket and add preservative according to the manufacture's instructions on the package. (Use warm water -at most 100 F -if the buds are tight , in order to promote more rapid opening.)
Remove the gypsophilia from its sleeve and fluff the bunches for better air circulation.Cut the stems 2 inches and place in the solution.
Avoid overcrowding the bucket, placing approximately 4-6 bunches per bucket after fluffing.
Keep the flowers away from sources of ethylene gas such as ripe fruits and decaying plant material. Sources of carbon monoxide must also be avoided.
Sensitive to heat, drafts and other drying environments.
After two days in the solution, place the flowers in clean water. This water should be changed every day and the stems should be trimmed approximately 0.5 inch every two or three days to promote longevity.
Baby's -Breath is ethylene- and water-stress sensitive. Water stress can rapidly induce ethylene production and thereby reduce flower life. In short, do not allow flowers to dry (inside or outside coolers), as shorter life will surely result.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus odoratus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With their fragile, seductive fragrance, Sweet peas make great flowers for gardens and bouquets. These pea-like flowering annuals grow in many lovely colors and are suitable for a border, a woodland garden, and a trellis or arch.
Cultivated sweet peas go back at least 300 years. In their native Sicily, these ornamental peas have weak stems and an intense orange-jasmine-honey scent. Modern hybrids are stronger-stalked and have larger blooms.
Growing sweet peas is akin to making a pie crust. Some people have the knack, others don’t. Sweet peas are quite hardy, growing from large, easy-to-handle, pea-like seeds. Still, they’re a bit tricky because they are slow to germinate. It’s worth experimenting with different seeds each year.
PLANTING
Early sowing is one of the secrets of sweet peas. In Zone 7 or colder, plant them in very late winter or early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. (Do not wait until last frost.) In the coldest parts of the country, get a jump on the season by starting sweet peas indoors in six-packs or Jiffy pots. Harden seedlings off for at least a week, and then set them out into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. If you garden in mild winter climates (Zones 8, 9, or 10), plant sweet peas in the late fall so they can develop and bloom in late winter and early spring.
Sweet peas are happiest with their heads in the sun and their roots deep in cool, moist soil. When possible, plant low-growing annuals in front of them to shade their roots.
Choose a well-drained site. Alkaline soil is best; sprinkle some powdered lime on the surface if your soil tends to be acidic.
Prepare a rich soil by mixing in generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure to a depth of 2 feet. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Prior to planting, you’re going to want to dig a nice deep trench of about 4 inches in depth.
After you dig the trench, make holes with a pencil, drop in the seeds, and press down on the soil to firm it and shut out any light.
Before planting, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Then nick the seeds with a nail file before planting to speed sprouting. You do not need to soak seeds in a temperate climate.
CARE
Once planted, germination can take 7 to 15 days, depending on the soil temperature.
As seedlings emerge and grow, gradually fill in the trench. Hoe more soil up to them.
Keep soil moist. Summer rain may be ample. If you put your finger into the soil bed to its first joint and the soil is dry: water them at the soil level and do so in the morning; sweet peas can suffer from bud drop.
If you use plenty of aged manure and compost when planting, you do not need to fertilize. If you do want to add nourishment, use high potash feeds, as nitrogen feeds encourage too much top growth.
Sweet peas prefer cool days and nights and will start to fade when temperatures go above 65°F.
Except for the bush types, sweet peas are real climbers. Give them at least 6 feet of good support. Some varieties may climb to 9 or 10 feet. If you don’t have a fence or trellis, provide brush or chicken wire or bushy, stubbly twigs that they can cling to.
When plants become established, mulch well to keep the soil cool and moist. If you mulch, you may not need to water your sweet peas unless the soil gets dry.
To encourage bushy growth, pinch off the tops when plants are 6 inches tall—not before or you’ll encourage premature side-shoot development.
Pick the flowers for bouquets often and the plant will put energy into more blooms instead of going to seed. Harvest the stems when the lowest blossom is just beginning to open.
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails may attack young growth.
Pythium root rot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, and various leaf spots are common.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With their fragile, seductive fragrance, Sweet peas make great flowers for gardens and bouquets. These pea-like flowering annuals grow in many lovely colors and are suitable for a border, a woodland garden, and a trellis or arch.
Cultivated sweet peas go back at least 300 years. In their native Sicily, these ornamental peas have weak stems and an intense orange-jasmine-honey scent. Modern hybrids are stronger-stalked and have larger blooms.
Growing sweet peas is akin to making a pie crust. Some people have the knack, others don’t. Sweet peas are quite hardy, growing from large, easy-to-handle, pea-like seeds. Still, they’re a bit tricky because they are slow to germinate. It’s worth experimenting with different seeds each year.
PLANTING
Early sowing is one of the secrets of sweet peas. In Zone 7 or colder, plant them in very late winter or early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. (Do not wait until last frost.) In the coldest parts of the country, get a jump on the season by starting sweet peas indoors in six-packs or Jiffy pots. Harden seedlings off for at least a week, and then set them out into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. If you garden in mild winter climates (Zones 8, 9, or 10), plant sweet peas in the late fall so they can develop and bloom in late winter and early spring.
Sweet peas are happiest with their heads in the sun and their roots deep in cool, moist soil. When possible, plant low-growing annuals in front of them to shade their roots.
Choose a well-drained site. Alkaline soil is best; sprinkle some powdered lime on the surface if your soil tends to be acidic.
Prepare a rich soil by mixing in generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure to a depth of 2 feet. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Prior to planting, you’re going to want to dig a nice deep trench of about 4 inches in depth.
After you dig the trench, make holes with a pencil, drop in the seeds, and press down on the soil to firm it and shut out any light.
Before planting, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Then nick the seeds with a nail file before planting to speed sprouting. You do not need to soak seeds in a temperate climate.
CARE
Once planted, germination can take 7 to 15 days, depending on the soil temperature.
As seedlings emerge and grow, gradually fill in the trench. Hoe more soil up to them.
Keep soil moist. Summer rain may be ample. If you put your finger into the soil bed to its first joint and the soil is dry: water them at the soil level and do so in the morning; sweet peas can suffer from bud drop.
If you use plenty of aged manure and compost when planting, you do not need to fertilize. If you do want to add nourishment, use high potash feeds, as nitrogen feeds encourage too much top growth.
Sweet peas prefer cool days and nights and will start to fade when temperatures go above 65°F.
Except for the bush types, sweet peas are real climbers. Give them at least 6 feet of good support. Some varieties may climb to 9 or 10 feet. If you don’t have a fence or trellis, provide brush or chicken wire or bushy, stubbly twigs that they can cling to.
When plants become established, mulch well to keep the soil cool and moist. If you mulch, you may not need to water your sweet peas unless the soil gets dry.
To encourage bushy growth, pinch off the tops when plants are 6 inches tall—not before or you’ll encourage premature side-shoot development.
Pick the flowers for bouquets often and the plant will put energy into more blooms instead of going to seed. Harvest the stems when the lowest blossom is just beginning to open.
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails may attack young growth.
Pythium root rot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, and various leaf spots are common.
3
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Family - Poaceae
Stems - To 40cm long, spreading to ascending, herbaceous, multiple from the base, from fibrous roots, glabrous but often with a small ring of glandular bumps below the nodes. Plants annual.
Leaves - Blades to 20cm long, to 7mm broad, flat, glabrous. Leaf margins with many minute glands which can be felt or seen with a lens. Leaf bases with ciliate hairs. Sheaths glabrous but with glands on the margins, ciliate on the margins near the apex. Ligule a line of minute hairs to 1mm long.
Inflorescence - Paniculate arrangement of spikelets, fairly dense, to 15cm long, ovate in outline, with a slightly silvery-greyish cast. Branches of the inflorescence ascending to spreading, glabrous or with floccose axillary hairs, also with glands as the leaves.
Flowers - Spikelets to 15mm long, 2-4mm broad, oblong-lanceolate in outline, with typically 10-20 florets. Glumes of the florets to 2.3mm long, the upper slightly longer than the lower, both glumes typically glabrous but usually with glands. Lemmas to 2.8mm long, acute to acuminate at the apex, keeled, with glands along the midvein.
Flowering - June - October.
Habitat - Streambanks, glades, fields, pastures, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to Europe.
Other info. - This weedy species is found throughout Missouri. The plant can be identified by its tufts of hairs at the base of the leaves and its small glands which are present on nearly all parts of the plants. The glands sometimes emit a foul odor when crushed and the plant has been called "Stink Grass." It is believed to be mildly toxic if ingested.
Stems - To 40cm long, spreading to ascending, herbaceous, multiple from the base, from fibrous roots, glabrous but often with a small ring of glandular bumps below the nodes. Plants annual.
Leaves - Blades to 20cm long, to 7mm broad, flat, glabrous. Leaf margins with many minute glands which can be felt or seen with a lens. Leaf bases with ciliate hairs. Sheaths glabrous but with glands on the margins, ciliate on the margins near the apex. Ligule a line of minute hairs to 1mm long.
Inflorescence - Paniculate arrangement of spikelets, fairly dense, to 15cm long, ovate in outline, with a slightly silvery-greyish cast. Branches of the inflorescence ascending to spreading, glabrous or with floccose axillary hairs, also with glands as the leaves.
Flowers - Spikelets to 15mm long, 2-4mm broad, oblong-lanceolate in outline, with typically 10-20 florets. Glumes of the florets to 2.3mm long, the upper slightly longer than the lower, both glumes typically glabrous but usually with glands. Lemmas to 2.8mm long, acute to acuminate at the apex, keeled, with glands along the midvein.
Flowering - June - October.
Habitat - Streambanks, glades, fields, pastures, disturbed sites, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to Europe.
Other info. - This weedy species is found throughout Missouri. The plant can be identified by its tufts of hairs at the base of the leaves and its small glands which are present on nearly all parts of the plants. The glands sometimes emit a foul odor when crushed and the plant has been called "Stink Grass." It is believed to be mildly toxic if ingested.
0
0
文章
Abigal
2017年02月16日
Flower Pressing is a wonderful hobby that combines nature, science and art. Popular projects include framing, greeting cards and notecards but the uses are only limited by your imagination. Here, I present 9 creative ideas for using your dried, pressed flowers.
1. Coasters – Start with some plain vinyl coasters and arrange your pressed flowers on them before glueing them down. Laminate with clear contact paper. As a finishing touch, glue a length of twine around the edge.
2. Photo Album – Personalize your photo albums by decorating them with your pressed flowers.
3. Pressed Flower Art – Sketch a picture on a sheet of drawing paper and “colour it in” by gluing a selection of dried, pressed flowers to it. Add a wooden frame to complete. You can find some beautiful examples at flowerox.com.
4. Bookmarks – Decorate a piece of card with your pressed flowers and laminate with clear contact paper to create a pretty bookmark.
5. Candles – Nothing quite enhances the look of a plain candle than an arrangement of pressed flowers. Due to the curves of a candle, it is important to make sure the edges are glued down securely. Melt another candle over the stove and seal the pressed flowers by covering them with the melted wax using a paintbrush. Be sure to do this quickly as the wax will dry fast.
6. Plant Pots – Decorate your flower pots with the preserved flowers that were once in them. When you have glued the pressed flowers in place, coat the pot with varnish to seal them. Once dry, apply a second coat of varnish for good measure.
7. Lampshades – Apply a thin layer of glue (diluted with water is best) to a plain lampshade and arrange your pressed flowers on it. Attach a layer of rice paper around the lampshade while the glue is still wet and add another layer of glue to the rice paper. After the glue is dry, the flowers will be visible throught the rice paper.
8. Jewelry Box – Give your jewelry box a personal touch by sticking a selection of dried, pressed flowers to the sides and lid.
9. Paperweights – Wash a rock or pebble and arrange and glue your pressed flowers to it. Cover the whole rock/pebble with a layer of glue to secure the pressed flowers in place (a technique known as decoupage). Add another two or three layers of glue, waiting for the previous layer to dry before applying. Depending on the glue you use, you may want to dilute it slightly so that it brushes smoothly over the object.
I hope these ideas have inspired you to do more with your pressed flowers. Remember: the possibilities are endless and the only limit is your imagination.
0
0
