文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月10日
The golden marguerite is a plant by many names. Sometimes referred to by its botanical name, Anthemis tinctorial, its common name is cota tinctoria. But this daisy-like perennial is also known as the golden marguerite—with marguerite being the French term for daisy. In addition, you might hear it referred to as yellow chamomile, since it’s a member of the same family (Anthemis) but unlike chamomile with its white petals, this species produces blossoms with deep yellow petals and similarly yellow disc flowers (what is referred to as the center of the bloom). The foliage is finely textured and has a faint aroma, similar to that of the more common varieties of chamomile.
Golden marguerite flowers make a pretty addition to bouquets or look fabulous displayed in vase arrangements. The long stems (up to 2 feet tall) make them easy to cut and enjoy. These flowering plants are native to the warmer southern region of Europe, but are frequently found in North America where they enjoy temperate climates but struggle in the hot, humid weather of the southern regions of the United States.
Botanical Name Anthemis tinctoria
Common Name Cota tinctoria, golden marguerite, yellow chamomile
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 1.5 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average to dry
Soil pH Neutral to alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 7
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Potentially toxic to cats, dogs, and horses based on toxicity of other anthemis varieties
How to Grow Golden Marguerite
To successfully grow golden marguerite, be sure to understand the plant’s preferences on light, water, and nutrients. Some factors, like soil conditions and pH, the plant is more ambivalent on. But to produce a bounty of bright, beautiful blooms, these plants demand plenty of sunshine, need to be kept moist but not overwatered, and will suffer if force fed too many nutrients through supplemental fertilizer. Pests are not a frequent concern, but you might find that aphids, slugs, or snails show up to snack on the foliage of golden marguerite plants.
Light
Golden marguerite is a sun-loving perennial, so it does best in a garden location that receives full sun. Ideally, locate this plant in a sunny spot that receives at least 6 or more hours of direct sunlight each day. The plant may also tolerate part shade conditions, but it is not suited to spots with full shade.
Soil
When it comes to soil conditions, this plant will often grow where other varieities may struggle. It tolerates soil with average or even poor nutrients, and can grow in dry or sandy soil conditions. It does best with neutral to alkaline pH levels, and can handle environmental salts and urban pollution.
Golden marguerite needs loose, well-draining soil. It does fine with loam, sandy, or even chalky soil conditions. However, it will not grow well in heavy, clay type soils.
Water
One of the benefits of this plant is that it has proven to be drought-tolerant. This makes it a good choice if your garden experiences stretches of dry weather or you are a forgetful waterer. However, golden marguerite will thrive and produce the most abundant flora and foliage with regular watering. Maintain correct soil moisture by letting the ground around the plant dry out in between watering sessions.
Temperature and Humidity
One of the strongest attributes of cota tinctorial is its tolerance for drought—but don’t start thinking that this plant prefers hot and humid climates. Such conditions often lead to a short-lived perennial plant, since the golden marguerite has a preference for more temperate climates.
Hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, this plant will even display an evergreen nature in climates with a mild winter.
Fertilizer
These plants tolerate average, or even poor soil conditions, so fertilizer is generally not required. In fact, soil that is too rich in nutrients can produce leggy plants that struggle to stand erect. For this reason, it’s generally advisable to skip fertilizing golden marguerite plants.
Propagating Golden Marguerite
If enjoy the fragrant nature and bright blooms of this plant, you can spread it to new areas of your landscaping or share it with friends through propagation.
Propagation by division and seed are the two most simple methods of turning one golden marguerite plant into many. In fact, the growth rate and habits of these plants will often demand division every two years or so—making it a natural time to propagate. The ideal time to propagate by division is in the spring, before the growing season begins in earnest.
To propagate golden marguerite by seed, start by collecting seeds from spent blossoms. Start the seeds indoors using grower trays and a soil medium designed for seed germination. The seeds will take between 2 weeks and a month to germinate, at which point you can transplant them to a location in your garden if the last frost has occurred. Otherwise, continue to cultivate indoors until the danger of frost is past.
For propagation by division, dig up the plant with its root system. Set the plant on the ground and use your shovel or other sharp-edged gardening tool to cut the parent plant into several equal portions that include a portion of the roots and foliage. The new individual plants can be transplanted to new locations where they should be generously watered.
Varieties of Golden Marguerite
Cota tinctoria ‘Kelwayi’: This cultivar of golden marguerite looks very similar in appearance, but does offer slightly larger blooms—typically measuring 2 inches in diameter compared to the approximately 1-inch flower head of the conventional golden marguerite. The increased blossom size might make it a good option if you’re primarily thinking of using this plant in a cutting garden for fresh flowers to display in your home or bouquets.
Pruning
The best practice for abundantly blooming golden marguerite plants is to deadhead the blossoms. Doing so can encourage the plant to produce fresh new blooms and may well keep it vibrant into early fall. In late fall or early winter, you can cut back the dead growth to ensure a fresh, healthy start to the plant’s spring growth.
Golden marguerite flowers make a pretty addition to bouquets or look fabulous displayed in vase arrangements. The long stems (up to 2 feet tall) make them easy to cut and enjoy. These flowering plants are native to the warmer southern region of Europe, but are frequently found in North America where they enjoy temperate climates but struggle in the hot, humid weather of the southern regions of the United States.
Botanical Name Anthemis tinctoria
Common Name Cota tinctoria, golden marguerite, yellow chamomile
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 1.5 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average to dry
Soil pH Neutral to alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 7
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Potentially toxic to cats, dogs, and horses based on toxicity of other anthemis varieties
How to Grow Golden Marguerite
To successfully grow golden marguerite, be sure to understand the plant’s preferences on light, water, and nutrients. Some factors, like soil conditions and pH, the plant is more ambivalent on. But to produce a bounty of bright, beautiful blooms, these plants demand plenty of sunshine, need to be kept moist but not overwatered, and will suffer if force fed too many nutrients through supplemental fertilizer. Pests are not a frequent concern, but you might find that aphids, slugs, or snails show up to snack on the foliage of golden marguerite plants.
Light
Golden marguerite is a sun-loving perennial, so it does best in a garden location that receives full sun. Ideally, locate this plant in a sunny spot that receives at least 6 or more hours of direct sunlight each day. The plant may also tolerate part shade conditions, but it is not suited to spots with full shade.
Soil
When it comes to soil conditions, this plant will often grow where other varieities may struggle. It tolerates soil with average or even poor nutrients, and can grow in dry or sandy soil conditions. It does best with neutral to alkaline pH levels, and can handle environmental salts and urban pollution.
Golden marguerite needs loose, well-draining soil. It does fine with loam, sandy, or even chalky soil conditions. However, it will not grow well in heavy, clay type soils.
Water
One of the benefits of this plant is that it has proven to be drought-tolerant. This makes it a good choice if your garden experiences stretches of dry weather or you are a forgetful waterer. However, golden marguerite will thrive and produce the most abundant flora and foliage with regular watering. Maintain correct soil moisture by letting the ground around the plant dry out in between watering sessions.
Temperature and Humidity
One of the strongest attributes of cota tinctorial is its tolerance for drought—but don’t start thinking that this plant prefers hot and humid climates. Such conditions often lead to a short-lived perennial plant, since the golden marguerite has a preference for more temperate climates.
Hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, this plant will even display an evergreen nature in climates with a mild winter.
Fertilizer
These plants tolerate average, or even poor soil conditions, so fertilizer is generally not required. In fact, soil that is too rich in nutrients can produce leggy plants that struggle to stand erect. For this reason, it’s generally advisable to skip fertilizing golden marguerite plants.
Propagating Golden Marguerite
If enjoy the fragrant nature and bright blooms of this plant, you can spread it to new areas of your landscaping or share it with friends through propagation.
Propagation by division and seed are the two most simple methods of turning one golden marguerite plant into many. In fact, the growth rate and habits of these plants will often demand division every two years or so—making it a natural time to propagate. The ideal time to propagate by division is in the spring, before the growing season begins in earnest.
To propagate golden marguerite by seed, start by collecting seeds from spent blossoms. Start the seeds indoors using grower trays and a soil medium designed for seed germination. The seeds will take between 2 weeks and a month to germinate, at which point you can transplant them to a location in your garden if the last frost has occurred. Otherwise, continue to cultivate indoors until the danger of frost is past.
For propagation by division, dig up the plant with its root system. Set the plant on the ground and use your shovel or other sharp-edged gardening tool to cut the parent plant into several equal portions that include a portion of the roots and foliage. The new individual plants can be transplanted to new locations where they should be generously watered.
Varieties of Golden Marguerite
Cota tinctoria ‘Kelwayi’: This cultivar of golden marguerite looks very similar in appearance, but does offer slightly larger blooms—typically measuring 2 inches in diameter compared to the approximately 1-inch flower head of the conventional golden marguerite. The increased blossom size might make it a good option if you’re primarily thinking of using this plant in a cutting garden for fresh flowers to display in your home or bouquets.
Pruning
The best practice for abundantly blooming golden marguerite plants is to deadhead the blossoms. Doing so can encourage the plant to produce fresh new blooms and may well keep it vibrant into early fall. In late fall or early winter, you can cut back the dead growth to ensure a fresh, healthy start to the plant’s spring growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月27日
Gaillardia, also known as blanket flower, is an easy-to-grow, short-lived perennial with richly colored, daisy-like flowers. The plant forms a slowly spreading mound and the common name may be a reference to how they can slowly spread and "blanket" an area. The plants grow to about 24 inches in height with about a 20-inch spread. Blanket flowers are fast-growers and will bloom in their first year. This garden favorite puts out large showy blossoms in shades of reds and yellows throughout the warm season months.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
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Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
FEATURED VIDEO
7 Tips for Every Gardener
Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月13日
You may not be familiar with the term bidens plant, but there is a good chance you’ve spotted this prolific growing plant with daisy-like blooms. Part of the aster family, there are more than 200 species of bidens plants with native types in such farflung places as Hawaii, Mexico, and Europe. In the United States, these plants are considered a native species in every state except Wyoming. If you encounter wild-growing bidens, you’ll recognize them for the tiny, sticky seeds that cling to your clothing or in your dog’s fur. The good news is that most commercially-available bidens have been cultivated to avoid the sticky seed problem.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月23日
African daisies (Osteospermum spp.) look a lot like common daisies, with petals radiating around a center disk. They are even in the Asteraceae family, along with shasta daisies and zinnias. But their vivid coloring is not at all like the classic daisy. In fact, when African daisies were first introduced to the market, some people thought they must have been dyed. The center disks of the flowers even can look like they're colored with metallic paint. The leaves vary by variety; they can be lance-like or broadly ovate and smooth, toothed, or lobed. Petals can be smooth and flat like a typical daisy, or they can radiate out in a tubular spoon shape. These flowers are best planted in the spring after the threat of frost has passed, and they have a fairly quick growth rate, blooming about two months after planting.
Botanical Name Osteospermum spp.
Common Names African daisy, blue-eyed daisy, Cape daisy
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 1–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Color Purple, pink, yellow, orange, white, bicolor
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Africa, Asia
Toxicity Nontoxic
African Daisy Care
African daisies work equally well in the ground or in containers. Blooms peak in late spring to early summer and again in late summer to early fall. Because African daisies stop blooming during hot spells, they are best grown in combination with other plants that will have visual interest in the peak of summer.
These flowers are fairly low-maintenance when grown in an environment they like. Make sure they have lots of sun and soil with good drainage. Plan to water and fertilize regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall). Also, deadhead the plants (remove the spent blooms) to encourage reblooming.
Light
African daisies bloom best in full sun. They can tolerate partial shade, but this will likely cause them to produce fewer flowers. Moreover, the blooms generally open in response to light and close at night and during overcast weather. However, some newer cultivars, including '4D Pink', '4D Silver', and '4D Berry', remain open at night.
Soil
African daisies prefer organically rich soil with sharp drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. Add compost or other organic matter to the soil at the time of planting to improve drainage and add nutrients.
Water
Although somewhat drought tolerant once established, African daisies still need at least 1 inch of water per week to grow their best. During periods of drought or intense heat, the plants will slow down and go dormant. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist. But don't overwater, as soggy soil can encourage diseases such as root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
African daisies prefer mild weather, which is when they bloom most profusely. They can handle nighttime temperatures down to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit, though frost can damage or kill them. Humidity typically isn't an issue for them, as long as they have good air circulation and proper watering and soil drainage.
Fertilizer
These flowers like a lot of food to grow and bloom at their best. Besides mixing compost into the soil, apply a fertilizer for flowering plants monthly throughout the growing season.
African Daisy Varieties
There are dozens of African daisy species and varieties, including:
Osteospermum 'Passion Mix': This compact plant reaches around a foot tall and comes in a variety of colors (pink, purple, rose, and white), all with blue centers. This is an easy variety to grow from seed and is known for its heat tolerance.
Osteospermum '4D': Known for their fluffy, tufted centers, these flowers remain open all day even in hot weather. The plants grow up to 14 inches high.
Osteospermum 'Flower Power Spider White': These blooms have odd, spoon-shaped, white and lavender petals with a gold center. The plants grow roughly 14 inches tall.
Osteospermum 'Lemon Symphony': This plant's butter-yellow petals have a purple center and orange eye. The variety grows about 14 inches high.
Osteospermum 'Sideshow Copper Apricot': This variety has striking pale apricot flowers with a purple center disk. It grows up to 12 inches high.
Propagating African Daisies
The majority of African daisy varieties are hybrids and won't grow from seeds saved from the plants. But you can easily propagate your plants by cuttings.
To do so, first fill a shallow tray with a sterile seed-starting mixture. Dampen the mix slightly. Then, take plant cuttings 2 to 3 inches long that have at least two sets of leaf nodes. Pinch off any flower buds that are present, and remove the lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and then plant the cut end in the seed-starting mix. Cover the tray with a plastic dome, and place it in a location with bright indirect light and temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit. In four to six weeks, the plants should be sufficiently rooted to transplant to pots or to an outdoor garden location.
Common Pests/Diseases
There aren't many pests or diseases that attack African daisies if the plants are kept stress-free in the proper environment. However, in damp or humid conditions be on the lookout for fungal diseases, such as gray mold.1 Such diseases will present with damaged or discolored foliage. Try to improve the air circulation around your plant, which can combat fungal diseases, and use a fungicide if necessary. Moreover, some common plant pests, including whiteflies and aphids, can become a problem, especially for stressed plants.2 But they can be controlled with an insecticidal soap or chemical spray if caught early.
Botanical Name Osteospermum spp.
Common Names African daisy, blue-eyed daisy, Cape daisy
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 1–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Color Purple, pink, yellow, orange, white, bicolor
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Africa, Asia
Toxicity Nontoxic
African Daisy Care
African daisies work equally well in the ground or in containers. Blooms peak in late spring to early summer and again in late summer to early fall. Because African daisies stop blooming during hot spells, they are best grown in combination with other plants that will have visual interest in the peak of summer.
These flowers are fairly low-maintenance when grown in an environment they like. Make sure they have lots of sun and soil with good drainage. Plan to water and fertilize regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall). Also, deadhead the plants (remove the spent blooms) to encourage reblooming.
Light
African daisies bloom best in full sun. They can tolerate partial shade, but this will likely cause them to produce fewer flowers. Moreover, the blooms generally open in response to light and close at night and during overcast weather. However, some newer cultivars, including '4D Pink', '4D Silver', and '4D Berry', remain open at night.
Soil
African daisies prefer organically rich soil with sharp drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. Add compost or other organic matter to the soil at the time of planting to improve drainage and add nutrients.
Water
Although somewhat drought tolerant once established, African daisies still need at least 1 inch of water per week to grow their best. During periods of drought or intense heat, the plants will slow down and go dormant. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist. But don't overwater, as soggy soil can encourage diseases such as root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
African daisies prefer mild weather, which is when they bloom most profusely. They can handle nighttime temperatures down to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit, though frost can damage or kill them. Humidity typically isn't an issue for them, as long as they have good air circulation and proper watering and soil drainage.
Fertilizer
These flowers like a lot of food to grow and bloom at their best. Besides mixing compost into the soil, apply a fertilizer for flowering plants monthly throughout the growing season.
African Daisy Varieties
There are dozens of African daisy species and varieties, including:
Osteospermum 'Passion Mix': This compact plant reaches around a foot tall and comes in a variety of colors (pink, purple, rose, and white), all with blue centers. This is an easy variety to grow from seed and is known for its heat tolerance.
Osteospermum '4D': Known for their fluffy, tufted centers, these flowers remain open all day even in hot weather. The plants grow up to 14 inches high.
Osteospermum 'Flower Power Spider White': These blooms have odd, spoon-shaped, white and lavender petals with a gold center. The plants grow roughly 14 inches tall.
Osteospermum 'Lemon Symphony': This plant's butter-yellow petals have a purple center and orange eye. The variety grows about 14 inches high.
Osteospermum 'Sideshow Copper Apricot': This variety has striking pale apricot flowers with a purple center disk. It grows up to 12 inches high.
Propagating African Daisies
The majority of African daisy varieties are hybrids and won't grow from seeds saved from the plants. But you can easily propagate your plants by cuttings.
To do so, first fill a shallow tray with a sterile seed-starting mixture. Dampen the mix slightly. Then, take plant cuttings 2 to 3 inches long that have at least two sets of leaf nodes. Pinch off any flower buds that are present, and remove the lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and then plant the cut end in the seed-starting mix. Cover the tray with a plastic dome, and place it in a location with bright indirect light and temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit. In four to six weeks, the plants should be sufficiently rooted to transplant to pots or to an outdoor garden location.
Common Pests/Diseases
There aren't many pests or diseases that attack African daisies if the plants are kept stress-free in the proper environment. However, in damp or humid conditions be on the lookout for fungal diseases, such as gray mold.1 Such diseases will present with damaged or discolored foliage. Try to improve the air circulation around your plant, which can combat fungal diseases, and use a fungicide if necessary. Moreover, some common plant pests, including whiteflies and aphids, can become a problem, especially for stressed plants.2 But they can be controlled with an insecticidal soap or chemical spray if caught early.
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文章
ritau
2020年08月27日
Dahlia is a genus of bushy, tuberous, herbaceous perennial plants native to Mexico and Central America. A member of the Asteraceae (formerly Compositae) family of dicotyledonous plants, its garden relatives thus include the sunflower, daisy, chrysanthemum, and zinnia. There are 42 species of dahlia, with hybrids commonly grown as garden plants. Flower forms are variable, with one head per stem; these can be as small as 5 cm (2 in) diameter or up to 30 cm (1 ft) ("dinner plate"). This great variety results from dahlias being octoploids—that is, they have eight sets of homologous chromosomes, whereas most plants have only two. In addition, dahlias also contain many transposons—genetic pieces that move from place to place upon an allele—which contributes to their manifesting such great diversity.
The stems are leafy, ranging in height from as low as 30 cm (12 in) to more than 1.8–2.4 m (6–8 ft). The majority of species do not produce scented flowers. Like most plants that do not attract pollinating insects through scent, they are brightly colored, displaying most hues, with the exception of blue.
The dahlia was declared the national flower of Mexico in 1963.The tubers were grown as a food crop by the Aztecs, but this use largely died out after the Spanish Conquest. Attempts to introduce the tubers as a food crop in Europe were unsuccessful.
Dahlias are perennial plants with tuberous roots, though they are grown as annuals in some regions with cold winters. While some have herbaceous stems, others have stems which lignify in the absence of secondary tissue and resprout following winter dormancy, allowing further seasons of growth. As a member of the Asteraceae, the dahlia has a flower head that is actually a composite (hence the older name Compositae) with both central disc florets and surrounding ray florets. Each floret is a flower in its own right, but is often incorrectly described as a petal, particularly by horticulturists. The modern name Asteraceae refers to the appearance of a star with surrounding rays.
*History
Spaniards reported finding the plants growing in Mexico in 1525, but the earliest known description is by Francisco Hernández, physician to Philip II, who was ordered to visit Mexico in 1570 to study the "natural products of that country". They were used as a source of food by the indigenous peoples, and were both gathered in the wild and cultivated. The Aztecs used them to treat epilepsy,and employed the long hollow stem of the (Dahlia imperalis) for water pipes. The indigenous peoples variously identified the plants as "Chichipatl" (Toltecs) and "Acocotle" or "Cocoxochitl" (Aztecs). From Hernandez's perception of Aztec, to Spanish, through various other translations, the word is "water cane", "water pipe", "water pipe flower", "hollow stem flower" and "cane flower". All these refer to the hollowness of the plants' stem.
Hernandez described two varieties of dahlias (the pinwheel-like Dahlia pinnata and the huge Dahlia imperialis) as well as other medicinal plants of New Spain. Francisco Dominguez, a Hidalgo gentleman who accompanied Hernandez on part of his seven-year study, made a series of drawings to supplement the four volume report. Three of his drawings showed plants with flowers: two resembled the modern bedding dahlia, and one resembled the species Dahlia merki; all displayed a high degree of doubleness.In 1578 the manuscript, entitled Nova Plantarum, Animalium et Mineralium Mexicanorum Historia, was sent back to the Escorial in Madrid; they were not translated into Latin by Francisco Ximenes until 1615. In 1640, Francisco Cesi, President of the Academia Linei of Rome, bought the Ximenes translation, and after annotating it, published it in 1649-1651 in two volumes as Rerum Medicarum Novae Hispaniae Thesaurus Seu Nova Plantarium, Animalium et Mineraliuím Mexicanorum Historia. The original manuscripts were destroyed in a fire in the mid-1600s.
"Stars of the Devil"
In 1872 J.T. van der Berg of Utrecht in the Netherlands, received a shipment of seeds and plants from a friend in Mexico. The entire shipment was badly rotted and appeared to be ruined, but van der Berg examined it carefully and found a small piece of root that seemed alive. He planted and carefully tended it; it grew into a plant that he identified as a dahlia. He made cuttings from the plant during the winter of 1872-1873. This was an entirely different type of flower, with a rich, red color and a high degree of doubling. In 1874 van der Berg catalogued it for sale, calling it Dahlia juarezii to honor Mexican President Benito Pablo Juarez, who had died the year before, and described it as "...equal to the beautiful color of the red poppy. Its form is very outstanding and different in every respect of all known dahlia flowers.".
This plant has perhaps had a greater influence on the popularity of the modern dahlia than any other. Called "Les Etoiles du Diable" (Stars of the Devil) in France and "Cactus dahlia" elsewhere, the edges of its petals rolled backwards, rather than forward, and this new form revolutionized the dahlia world. It was thought to be a distinct mutation since no other plant that resembled it could be found in the wild. Today it is assumed that D. juarezii had, at one time, existed in Mexico and subsequently disappeared. Nurserymen in Europe crossbred this plant with dahlias discovered earlier; the results became the progenitors of all modern dahlia hybrids today.
The stems are leafy, ranging in height from as low as 30 cm (12 in) to more than 1.8–2.4 m (6–8 ft). The majority of species do not produce scented flowers. Like most plants that do not attract pollinating insects through scent, they are brightly colored, displaying most hues, with the exception of blue.
The dahlia was declared the national flower of Mexico in 1963.The tubers were grown as a food crop by the Aztecs, but this use largely died out after the Spanish Conquest. Attempts to introduce the tubers as a food crop in Europe were unsuccessful.
Dahlias are perennial plants with tuberous roots, though they are grown as annuals in some regions with cold winters. While some have herbaceous stems, others have stems which lignify in the absence of secondary tissue and resprout following winter dormancy, allowing further seasons of growth. As a member of the Asteraceae, the dahlia has a flower head that is actually a composite (hence the older name Compositae) with both central disc florets and surrounding ray florets. Each floret is a flower in its own right, but is often incorrectly described as a petal, particularly by horticulturists. The modern name Asteraceae refers to the appearance of a star with surrounding rays.
*History
Spaniards reported finding the plants growing in Mexico in 1525, but the earliest known description is by Francisco Hernández, physician to Philip II, who was ordered to visit Mexico in 1570 to study the "natural products of that country". They were used as a source of food by the indigenous peoples, and were both gathered in the wild and cultivated. The Aztecs used them to treat epilepsy,and employed the long hollow stem of the (Dahlia imperalis) for water pipes. The indigenous peoples variously identified the plants as "Chichipatl" (Toltecs) and "Acocotle" or "Cocoxochitl" (Aztecs). From Hernandez's perception of Aztec, to Spanish, through various other translations, the word is "water cane", "water pipe", "water pipe flower", "hollow stem flower" and "cane flower". All these refer to the hollowness of the plants' stem.
Hernandez described two varieties of dahlias (the pinwheel-like Dahlia pinnata and the huge Dahlia imperialis) as well as other medicinal plants of New Spain. Francisco Dominguez, a Hidalgo gentleman who accompanied Hernandez on part of his seven-year study, made a series of drawings to supplement the four volume report. Three of his drawings showed plants with flowers: two resembled the modern bedding dahlia, and one resembled the species Dahlia merki; all displayed a high degree of doubleness.In 1578 the manuscript, entitled Nova Plantarum, Animalium et Mineralium Mexicanorum Historia, was sent back to the Escorial in Madrid; they were not translated into Latin by Francisco Ximenes until 1615. In 1640, Francisco Cesi, President of the Academia Linei of Rome, bought the Ximenes translation, and after annotating it, published it in 1649-1651 in two volumes as Rerum Medicarum Novae Hispaniae Thesaurus Seu Nova Plantarium, Animalium et Mineraliuím Mexicanorum Historia. The original manuscripts were destroyed in a fire in the mid-1600s.
"Stars of the Devil"
In 1872 J.T. van der Berg of Utrecht in the Netherlands, received a shipment of seeds and plants from a friend in Mexico. The entire shipment was badly rotted and appeared to be ruined, but van der Berg examined it carefully and found a small piece of root that seemed alive. He planted and carefully tended it; it grew into a plant that he identified as a dahlia. He made cuttings from the plant during the winter of 1872-1873. This was an entirely different type of flower, with a rich, red color and a high degree of doubling. In 1874 van der Berg catalogued it for sale, calling it Dahlia juarezii to honor Mexican President Benito Pablo Juarez, who had died the year before, and described it as "...equal to the beautiful color of the red poppy. Its form is very outstanding and different in every respect of all known dahlia flowers.".
This plant has perhaps had a greater influence on the popularity of the modern dahlia than any other. Called "Les Etoiles du Diable" (Stars of the Devil) in France and "Cactus dahlia" elsewhere, the edges of its petals rolled backwards, rather than forward, and this new form revolutionized the dahlia world. It was thought to be a distinct mutation since no other plant that resembled it could be found in the wild. Today it is assumed that D. juarezii had, at one time, existed in Mexico and subsequently disappeared. Nurserymen in Europe crossbred this plant with dahlias discovered earlier; the results became the progenitors of all modern dahlia hybrids today.
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文章
ritau
2020年07月01日
Chamomile (American English) or camomile (British English) is the common name for several daisy-like plants of the family Asteraceae. Two of the species are commonly used to make herbal infusions for traditional medicine, and there is some evidence that chamomile has an effect on health.
The word "chamomile" derived via French and Latin from Greek χαμαίμηλον (khamaimēlon), "earth apple", from χαμαί (khamai) "on the ground" and μῆλον (mēlon) "apple". First used in the 13th century, the spelling "chamomile" corresponds to the Latin chamomilla and Greek chamaimelon. The spelling "camomile" is a British derivation from the French.
Some commonly used species include:
-Matricaria chamomilla Often called "German chamomile" or "Water of Youth",
-Chamaemelum nobile, Roman, English or garden chamomile, also frequently used, (C. nobile Treneague is normally used to create a chamomile lawn).
-A number of other species common names include the word "chamomile". This does not mean they are used in the same manner as the species used in the herbal tea known as "chamomile". Plants including the common name "chamomile", of the family Asteraceae, are:
*Chamomilla recutita, German Chamomile
*Anthemis arvensis, corn, scentless or field chamomile
*Anthemis cotula, stinking chamomile
*Cladanthus mixtus, Moroccan chamomile
*Chamaemelum nobile, Roman Chamomile
*Cota tinctoria, dyer's, golden, oxeye, or yellow chamomile
*Eriocephalus punctulatus, Cape chamomile
*Matricaria discoidea, wild chamomile or pineapple weed
*Tripleurospermum inodorum, wild, scentless or false chamomile
Chamomile tea is an herbal infusion made from dried flowers and hot water.Two types of chamomile used are German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Chamomile may be used as a flavoring agent in foods and beverages, mouthwash, soaps, or cosmetics. When used as an herbal product, such as in tea or as a topical skin cream, chamomile is not likely to have significant health effects or major side effects.
Use of chamomile has potential to cause adverse interactions with numerous herbal products and prescription drugs, and may worsen pollen allergies. Apigenin, a phytochemical in chamomile, may interact with anticoagulant agents and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, while other phytochemicals may adversely interact with sleep-enhancing herbal products and vitamins.
Chamomile is not recommended to be taken with aspirin or non-salicylate NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), as it may cause herb-drug interaction.
"Chamomile consists of several ingredients including coumarin, glycoside, herniarin, flavonoid, farnesol, nerolidol and germacranolide. Despite the presence of coumarin, as chamomile’s effect on the coagulation system has not yet been studied, it is unknown if a clinically significant drug-herb interaction exists with antiplatelet/anticoagulant drugs. However, until more information is available, it is not recommended to use these substances concurrently."
People who are allergic to ragweed (also in the daisy family) may be allergic to chamomile due to cross-reactivity. Chamomile should not be used by people with past or present cancers of the breast, ovary, uterus, endometriosis or uterine fibroids.
Chamomile has also historically been used in beer.Unlike tea, in which only the flowers are used, the whole plant has been used. The bitter taste is useful in beer, but it was also used for medicinal purposes. Modern craft breweries and homebrewers use chamomile, and there are several hundred commercially brewed beers with chamomile.
The word "chamomile" derived via French and Latin from Greek χαμαίμηλον (khamaimēlon), "earth apple", from χαμαί (khamai) "on the ground" and μῆλον (mēlon) "apple". First used in the 13th century, the spelling "chamomile" corresponds to the Latin chamomilla and Greek chamaimelon. The spelling "camomile" is a British derivation from the French.
Some commonly used species include:
-Matricaria chamomilla Often called "German chamomile" or "Water of Youth",
-Chamaemelum nobile, Roman, English or garden chamomile, also frequently used, (C. nobile Treneague is normally used to create a chamomile lawn).
-A number of other species common names include the word "chamomile". This does not mean they are used in the same manner as the species used in the herbal tea known as "chamomile". Plants including the common name "chamomile", of the family Asteraceae, are:
*Chamomilla recutita, German Chamomile
*Anthemis arvensis, corn, scentless or field chamomile
*Anthemis cotula, stinking chamomile
*Cladanthus mixtus, Moroccan chamomile
*Chamaemelum nobile, Roman Chamomile
*Cota tinctoria, dyer's, golden, oxeye, or yellow chamomile
*Eriocephalus punctulatus, Cape chamomile
*Matricaria discoidea, wild chamomile or pineapple weed
*Tripleurospermum inodorum, wild, scentless or false chamomile
Chamomile tea is an herbal infusion made from dried flowers and hot water.Two types of chamomile used are German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Chamomile may be used as a flavoring agent in foods and beverages, mouthwash, soaps, or cosmetics. When used as an herbal product, such as in tea or as a topical skin cream, chamomile is not likely to have significant health effects or major side effects.
Use of chamomile has potential to cause adverse interactions with numerous herbal products and prescription drugs, and may worsen pollen allergies. Apigenin, a phytochemical in chamomile, may interact with anticoagulant agents and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, while other phytochemicals may adversely interact with sleep-enhancing herbal products and vitamins.
Chamomile is not recommended to be taken with aspirin or non-salicylate NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), as it may cause herb-drug interaction.
"Chamomile consists of several ingredients including coumarin, glycoside, herniarin, flavonoid, farnesol, nerolidol and germacranolide. Despite the presence of coumarin, as chamomile’s effect on the coagulation system has not yet been studied, it is unknown if a clinically significant drug-herb interaction exists with antiplatelet/anticoagulant drugs. However, until more information is available, it is not recommended to use these substances concurrently."
People who are allergic to ragweed (also in the daisy family) may be allergic to chamomile due to cross-reactivity. Chamomile should not be used by people with past or present cancers of the breast, ovary, uterus, endometriosis or uterine fibroids.
Chamomile has also historically been used in beer.Unlike tea, in which only the flowers are used, the whole plant has been used. The bitter taste is useful in beer, but it was also used for medicinal purposes. Modern craft breweries and homebrewers use chamomile, and there are several hundred commercially brewed beers with chamomile.
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文章
ritau
2020年02月19日
Many related plants also share the name "daisy", so to distinguish this species from other daisies it is sometimes qualified as common daisy, lawn daisy or English daisy. Historically, it has also been commonly known as bruisewort and occasionally woundwort (although the common name woundwort is now more closely associated with Stachys). Bellis perennis is native to western, central and northern Europe, but widely naturalised in most temperate regions including the Americas and Australasia.
It is a perennial herbaceous plant with short creeping rhizomes and rosettes of small rounded or spoon-shaped leaves that are from 3/4 to 2 inches (approx. 2-5 cm) long and grow flat to the ground. The species habitually colonises lawns, and is difficult to eradicate by mowing – hence the term 'lawn daisy'. Wherever it appears it is often considered an invasive weed.
The flowerheads are composite, in the form of a pseudanthium, consisting of many sessile flowers about 3/4 to 1-1/4 in (approx. 2-3 cm) in diameter, with white ray florets (often tipped red) and yellow disc florets. Each inflorescence is borne on single leafless stems 3/4 – 4 in (approx. 2-10 cm), rarely 6 in (approx. 15 cm) tall. The capitulum, or disc of florets, is surrounded by two rows of green bracts known as "phyllaries". The achenes are without pappus.
Bellis perennis generally blooms from early to midsummer, although when grown under ideal conditions, it has a very long flowering season and will even produce a few flowers in the middle of mild winters.
It can generally be grown in USDA Zones 4 – 8 (i.e. where minimum temperatures are above −30 °F (−34 °C)) in full sun to partial shade conditions, and requires low or no maintenance. It has no known serious insect or disease problems and can generally be grown in most well-drained soils. The plant may be propagated either by seed after the last frost, or by division after flowering.
Though invasive, the species is still considered a valuable ground cover in certain garden settings (e.g., as part of English or cottage inspired gardens, as well as spring meadows where low growth and some color is desired in parallel with minimal care and maintenance while helping to crowd out noxious weeds once established and naturalised).
Numerous single- and double-flowered varieties are in cultivation, producing flat or spherical blooms in a range of sizes (1 cm to 6 cm) and colours (red, pink & white). They are generally grown from seed as biennial bedding plants. They can also be purchased as plugs in Spring. The cultivar 'Tasso series' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
It has been reported to be mostly self-fertilizing, but some plants may be self-sterile.
It is a perennial herbaceous plant with short creeping rhizomes and rosettes of small rounded or spoon-shaped leaves that are from 3/4 to 2 inches (approx. 2-5 cm) long and grow flat to the ground. The species habitually colonises lawns, and is difficult to eradicate by mowing – hence the term 'lawn daisy'. Wherever it appears it is often considered an invasive weed.
The flowerheads are composite, in the form of a pseudanthium, consisting of many sessile flowers about 3/4 to 1-1/4 in (approx. 2-3 cm) in diameter, with white ray florets (often tipped red) and yellow disc florets. Each inflorescence is borne on single leafless stems 3/4 – 4 in (approx. 2-10 cm), rarely 6 in (approx. 15 cm) tall. The capitulum, or disc of florets, is surrounded by two rows of green bracts known as "phyllaries". The achenes are without pappus.
Bellis perennis generally blooms from early to midsummer, although when grown under ideal conditions, it has a very long flowering season and will even produce a few flowers in the middle of mild winters.
It can generally be grown in USDA Zones 4 – 8 (i.e. where minimum temperatures are above −30 °F (−34 °C)) in full sun to partial shade conditions, and requires low or no maintenance. It has no known serious insect or disease problems and can generally be grown in most well-drained soils. The plant may be propagated either by seed after the last frost, or by division after flowering.
Though invasive, the species is still considered a valuable ground cover in certain garden settings (e.g., as part of English or cottage inspired gardens, as well as spring meadows where low growth and some color is desired in parallel with minimal care and maintenance while helping to crowd out noxious weeds once established and naturalised).
Numerous single- and double-flowered varieties are in cultivation, producing flat or spherical blooms in a range of sizes (1 cm to 6 cm) and colours (red, pink & white). They are generally grown from seed as biennial bedding plants. They can also be purchased as plugs in Spring. The cultivar 'Tasso series' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
It has been reported to be mostly self-fertilizing, but some plants may be self-sterile.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
There are few flowers that are as beautiful as a simple daisy. They can dress up well manicured flower beds and also look magnificent among roadside weeds. While daisies are a favorite flower of summer no matter where they are growing, what if they are located in a spot that just doesn't support them anymore? Can you move them to a different part of the lawn or bring them home from that roadside roost? Absolutely, if you time it just right and know what you are doing.
Step 1
When selecting a site for daisies, it is important to place them in a location with full sun. The best time of the year to transplant is spring, which will allow the root systems to take before winter. Some choose to transplant daisies right after they bloom in early summer.
Step 2
Prepare the new bed that the daisies will be moving to. Dig a hole twice the size and almost twice as deep as the root ball you are digging up. Fill the hole with water. Even though this will absorb before the new plants come in, it will assure that the new area is moist and will encourage the roots to take.
Step 3
If you are transplanting daisies by moving them from ground they are already planted in, you want to dig an extra 5 inches out from around the roots. If you are moving some daisies from a large clump, this will give you more that are likely to survive any transplant shock. The larger the root ball area is, the less shock damage will be done to the roots.
Step 4
Once you have the root ball dug, do not shake any dirt from it if at all possible. This will help keep the root ball intact and minimize shock. Place the root ball into the new location. Cover with dirt mixed with a third of mulch. Water again and if any dirt seems to have run off the roots, be sure to add more to cover. Tamp the dirt down again.
Keep your plants well watered for 3 weeks until the roots have a chance to become grounded in the new location. Sit back and enjoy the beauty of the daisies.
Step 1
When selecting a site for daisies, it is important to place them in a location with full sun. The best time of the year to transplant is spring, which will allow the root systems to take before winter. Some choose to transplant daisies right after they bloom in early summer.
Step 2
Prepare the new bed that the daisies will be moving to. Dig a hole twice the size and almost twice as deep as the root ball you are digging up. Fill the hole with water. Even though this will absorb before the new plants come in, it will assure that the new area is moist and will encourage the roots to take.
Step 3
If you are transplanting daisies by moving them from ground they are already planted in, you want to dig an extra 5 inches out from around the roots. If you are moving some daisies from a large clump, this will give you more that are likely to survive any transplant shock. The larger the root ball area is, the less shock damage will be done to the roots.
Step 4
Once you have the root ball dug, do not shake any dirt from it if at all possible. This will help keep the root ball intact and minimize shock. Place the root ball into the new location. Cover with dirt mixed with a third of mulch. Water again and if any dirt seems to have run off the roots, be sure to add more to cover. Tamp the dirt down again.
Keep your plants well watered for 3 weeks until the roots have a chance to become grounded in the new location. Sit back and enjoy the beauty of the daisies.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Large flowers in bright, bold colors make gerbera daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) a show-stopper in garden displays. Also called Barberton daisy, African daisy and Transvaal daisy, gerbera daisy is perennial outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 but is often grown as an annual. It also grows well indoors. A gerbera daisy plant performs best in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and in a full-sun site, but it needs afternoon shade in a hot climate.
Feeding and Watering an Outdoor Plant
An outdoor gerbera daisy needs regular feeding to flower well, but it should be watered infrequently to avoid crown rot. Feed your gerbera daisy with a water-soluble, 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water, which feeds 10 square feet of plants. Apply the solution every two weeks while the gerbera daisy flowers, or dilute and apply the fertilizer according to the instructions on its label. In wet conditions, gerbera daisy suffers from crown rot, which affects its base. Help your plant avoid that disease by watering your gerbera daisy when its soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch. If you water and feed the plant at the same time, then apply the fertilizer first. Don't apply only fertilizer if the ground is dry. Feed and water the gerbera at the plant's base, and never from above, to help avoid leaf diseases.
Deadheading and Dividing
Deadheading encourages a gerbera daisy plant to produce more flowers, and dividing an outdoor plant helps keep it healthy. Deadheading, which is removing flowers as they fade, improves the plant's appearance and encourages a long blooming period. Wipe pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and use the tool to prune fading flowers at their stem bases. Sterilizing the pruning shears again is necessary after you finish pruning. If you grow your outdoor gerbera daisy as a perennial, lift and divide it in the spring of the plant's third year. Do so by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 4 inches from the plant's base, and gently lever the plant out of its soil. Pull the plant's base into three or four equal sections, and plant the sections 1 foot apart and about 1/2 inch higher than the original growing depth.
Controlling Pests and Diseases
Aphids, mites, thrips and whiteflies attack gerbera daisy, and the plant also suffers from leaf spots, rots and viruses. Aphids are small insects that cluster at shoot tips and on the undersides of leaves. Mites look like tiny moving dots, and thrips are tiny, very slim insects. Whiteflies are small, white, flying insects. Favorable growing conditions and good-quality care are the gerbera daisy's best defenses against pests and diseases, and you also can control minor problems by pinching off affected shoots. On a cloudy day, spray an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with pests with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap containing 1 percent potassium salts of fatty acids. This spray also can be used on an indoor gerbera daisy. Spray the plant once each week as needed, covering all its foliage but avoiding its flowers. Dig up an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with leaf spots, rots or viruses, and put it in the trash.
Tending an Indoor Plant
Gerbera daisy can grow well as an indoor plant for two to three years. Grow your gerbera daisy in a peat moss-based potting compost in a container with bottom drainage holes and a drip tray. Place the container in a bright spot that receives no more than one to two hours of direct sunlight each day, and water the plant when its potting compost is dry to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Allow that material to drain thoroughly before returning the container to its drip tray. Keep the plant's location at 40 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is in flower, and feed the gerbera daisy every two weeks with a liquid 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water. You can replace water with the fertilizer solution if the plant needs watering. Pour the solution slowly onto the potting compost surface until it runs out of the plant container's drainage holes, and allow the plant to drain thoroughly before putting the container back on its drip tray.
Feeding and Watering an Outdoor Plant
An outdoor gerbera daisy needs regular feeding to flower well, but it should be watered infrequently to avoid crown rot. Feed your gerbera daisy with a water-soluble, 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water, which feeds 10 square feet of plants. Apply the solution every two weeks while the gerbera daisy flowers, or dilute and apply the fertilizer according to the instructions on its label. In wet conditions, gerbera daisy suffers from crown rot, which affects its base. Help your plant avoid that disease by watering your gerbera daisy when its soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch. If you water and feed the plant at the same time, then apply the fertilizer first. Don't apply only fertilizer if the ground is dry. Feed and water the gerbera at the plant's base, and never from above, to help avoid leaf diseases.
Deadheading and Dividing
Deadheading encourages a gerbera daisy plant to produce more flowers, and dividing an outdoor plant helps keep it healthy. Deadheading, which is removing flowers as they fade, improves the plant's appearance and encourages a long blooming period. Wipe pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and use the tool to prune fading flowers at their stem bases. Sterilizing the pruning shears again is necessary after you finish pruning. If you grow your outdoor gerbera daisy as a perennial, lift and divide it in the spring of the plant's third year. Do so by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 4 inches from the plant's base, and gently lever the plant out of its soil. Pull the plant's base into three or four equal sections, and plant the sections 1 foot apart and about 1/2 inch higher than the original growing depth.
Controlling Pests and Diseases
Aphids, mites, thrips and whiteflies attack gerbera daisy, and the plant also suffers from leaf spots, rots and viruses. Aphids are small insects that cluster at shoot tips and on the undersides of leaves. Mites look like tiny moving dots, and thrips are tiny, very slim insects. Whiteflies are small, white, flying insects. Favorable growing conditions and good-quality care are the gerbera daisy's best defenses against pests and diseases, and you also can control minor problems by pinching off affected shoots. On a cloudy day, spray an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with pests with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap containing 1 percent potassium salts of fatty acids. This spray also can be used on an indoor gerbera daisy. Spray the plant once each week as needed, covering all its foliage but avoiding its flowers. Dig up an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with leaf spots, rots or viruses, and put it in the trash.
Tending an Indoor Plant
Gerbera daisy can grow well as an indoor plant for two to three years. Grow your gerbera daisy in a peat moss-based potting compost in a container with bottom drainage holes and a drip tray. Place the container in a bright spot that receives no more than one to two hours of direct sunlight each day, and water the plant when its potting compost is dry to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Allow that material to drain thoroughly before returning the container to its drip tray. Keep the plant's location at 40 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is in flower, and feed the gerbera daisy every two weeks with a liquid 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water. You can replace water with the fertilizer solution if the plant needs watering. Pour the solution slowly onto the potting compost surface until it runs out of the plant container's drainage holes, and allow the plant to drain thoroughly before putting the container back on its drip tray.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月07日
Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) are colorful perennials that attract birds and butterflies to your yard or garden. Coneflowers grow in shades of pink, purple, orange, yellow and white. These daisy-like flowers have a puffy central head that protrudes upward as the petals fold back. Coneflowers are native throughout eastern and central North America, growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Caring for hybrid coneflowers with regular deadheading, shearing once each season and dividing as needed will reward you with blooms for years to come.
When to Fertilize
Fertilize coneflowers in the spring as new growth appears with a fertilizer low in nitrogen like a 5-10-5 blend. Spread a small handful evenly around the plant, being sure that the product doesn't touch the plant. Apply two more applications at six week intervals and always water the fertilizer into the ground after applying. Coneflowers do not require heavy feeding; a spring mulch of rich compost helps smother weeds and provides a slow release of nutrients into the soil. While native varieties are not particular about soil type, coneflowers respond to loamy or sandy soil that drains well.
Watering
Water coneflowers regularly during the first growing season to help establish healthy root systems. Mature coneflowers are drought resistant, preferring an open area in full sun, but consistent watering can improve blooming throughout a hot, dry summer.
Few Pest Problems
Check the plants regularly for signs of insect damage. Although coneflowers are pest-resistant, leaf miners and Japanese beetles sometimes attack the leaves and flowers, and vine weevils may attack the roots. Dust the plants with diatomaceous earth or spray with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap to control insects. Powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spots and gray mold may be problems, especially in humid areas. Treat with a ready-to-use copper-based fungicide following the manufacturer's directions. Cover the entire foliage with the fungicide. Overhead watering can be a cause of disease spread; drip-irrigation or a soaker hose helps control soil-borne and airborne diseases by reducing splashing. Remove diseased parts of the plant when you deadhead and dispose of them by burning or in a trash collection container. Keep diseased plant material out of the compost pile and away from healthy plants.
Care in the Growing Season
Deadhead the coneflowers during the spring and early summer to encourage new growth in middle to late summer. Cut off spent blooms with garden shears as the petals begin to brown, wiping the blades with alcohol wipes between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Cut out any dead or browning leaves to encourage fresh greenery later in the season. Leave the last spent coneflowers to dry on the plants in the fall -- the seed heads provide food for migrating and over-wintering birds and will reseed into the garden.
Shear coneflowers back to about one-third of their growth during the early summer to encourage bushy growth later in the season. Shearing a plant means to cut and remove most of the greenery and all of the spent blooms and stems.
If you're deadheading and pruning a large number of plants, mix nine parts water with one part household liquid bleach in a bucket, and dip the pruners in the solution between cuts to disinfect the blades.
Divide and Transplant
Divide mature coneflower clumps in the spring before growth begins, or in early fall after blooming is finished. Lift the plant from the ground completely with a shovel or spading fork, being careful not to damage the roots. Set the plant on the ground with the crown facing up. Place the tip of a sharp shovel at the top of the soil and between the center leaves of the coneflower plant. Push down with the shovel to cut the plant in half. Replant one half back into the hole where it was removed, and transplant the other half in a new location. Water both new coneflower plants after dividing and transplanting. Alternatively, you may cut a large clump into several sections with a sharp shovel or a knife and transplant the sections. Sterilize the blade after each cut.
Plant coneflowers as a border along a walkway or as part of a perennial cutting garden and watch the birds enjoy the seed heads.
When to Fertilize
Fertilize coneflowers in the spring as new growth appears with a fertilizer low in nitrogen like a 5-10-5 blend. Spread a small handful evenly around the plant, being sure that the product doesn't touch the plant. Apply two more applications at six week intervals and always water the fertilizer into the ground after applying. Coneflowers do not require heavy feeding; a spring mulch of rich compost helps smother weeds and provides a slow release of nutrients into the soil. While native varieties are not particular about soil type, coneflowers respond to loamy or sandy soil that drains well.
Watering
Water coneflowers regularly during the first growing season to help establish healthy root systems. Mature coneflowers are drought resistant, preferring an open area in full sun, but consistent watering can improve blooming throughout a hot, dry summer.
Few Pest Problems
Check the plants regularly for signs of insect damage. Although coneflowers are pest-resistant, leaf miners and Japanese beetles sometimes attack the leaves and flowers, and vine weevils may attack the roots. Dust the plants with diatomaceous earth or spray with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap to control insects. Powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spots and gray mold may be problems, especially in humid areas. Treat with a ready-to-use copper-based fungicide following the manufacturer's directions. Cover the entire foliage with the fungicide. Overhead watering can be a cause of disease spread; drip-irrigation or a soaker hose helps control soil-borne and airborne diseases by reducing splashing. Remove diseased parts of the plant when you deadhead and dispose of them by burning or in a trash collection container. Keep diseased plant material out of the compost pile and away from healthy plants.
Care in the Growing Season
Deadhead the coneflowers during the spring and early summer to encourage new growth in middle to late summer. Cut off spent blooms with garden shears as the petals begin to brown, wiping the blades with alcohol wipes between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Cut out any dead or browning leaves to encourage fresh greenery later in the season. Leave the last spent coneflowers to dry on the plants in the fall -- the seed heads provide food for migrating and over-wintering birds and will reseed into the garden.
Shear coneflowers back to about one-third of their growth during the early summer to encourage bushy growth later in the season. Shearing a plant means to cut and remove most of the greenery and all of the spent blooms and stems.
If you're deadheading and pruning a large number of plants, mix nine parts water with one part household liquid bleach in a bucket, and dip the pruners in the solution between cuts to disinfect the blades.
Divide and Transplant
Divide mature coneflower clumps in the spring before growth begins, or in early fall after blooming is finished. Lift the plant from the ground completely with a shovel or spading fork, being careful not to damage the roots. Set the plant on the ground with the crown facing up. Place the tip of a sharp shovel at the top of the soil and between the center leaves of the coneflower plant. Push down with the shovel to cut the plant in half. Replant one half back into the hole where it was removed, and transplant the other half in a new location. Water both new coneflower plants after dividing and transplanting. Alternatively, you may cut a large clump into several sections with a sharp shovel or a knife and transplant the sections. Sterilize the blade after each cut.
Plant coneflowers as a border along a walkway or as part of a perennial cutting garden and watch the birds enjoy the seed heads.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
The flowers called daisies are all members of the aster family but differ in hardiness, culture and bloom period. In addition to the traditional white Shasta daisy, several other daisies grow in most U.S. hardiness zones. Unfortunately, "daisy" is a common name and scientific names shift from time to time. Whatever their names, though, cutting gardens yield long-lasting bouquets all summer when planted with several varieties of these sun-loving flowers.
Shasta Daisies
Shasta daisies bloom from late spring to early fall on 1- to 3-foot plants. Once classified as chrysanthemums, Shastas are now Leucanthemum x superbum. They have a tendency to droop over, but if they are cut frequently and deadheaded when blooms begin to fade, they will continue to bloom all summer long. They will continue their vigorous bloom if mature clumps are divided every two or three years and the non-productive center of the clump is discarded. Shastas' twisted stems may limit their usefulness to small arrangements and bouquets. As cut flowers, Shasta daisies last a week to 10 days.
Painted Daisies
Another variety, painted daisies (Tanacetum coccineum), blooms in white, yellows, reds and pinks beginning in midsummer. Plants grow about 2 feet tall and strong stems bear flowers from midsummer to early fall. White painted daisies will change color when food coloring is added to their water. Painted daisies last from a week to 10 days when water is kept fresh.
Michaelmas Daisy
Michaelmas daisies (Aster novae-angliae) grow tallest of all the daisies -- up to 5 feet -- bearing purple, lavender, pink, red and white flowers. They bloom late summer through fall and, like most daisies, prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Cut when they are fully open, Michaelmas daisies stay fresh in arrangements and vases from five to 10 days.
Marguerite Daisy
White and pastel yellow Marguerite daisies (Anthemis tinctoria) bloom in summer on 2- to 3-foot plants. Short-lived Marguerites tolerate drought and frequent division. Picked just as they begin to open, summer-blooming Marguerites stay fresh up to 10 days in clean water.
Ox-Eye Daisy
Ox-eye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) grow from 1 to 3 feet tall and are classified as invasive weeds in some states due to the aggressive growth of their rhizomes. White flowers of Leucanthemum vulgare measure less than 2 inches across and are drought tolerant. Cut blooms last between five and 10 days.
Gerbera Daisy
Gerber daisies (Gerbera jamesonii or Gerbera x hybrid), native to the Traansvaal area of South Africa, grow as tender perennials or container plants in temperate zones of the United States. They bloom in spring and summer in semi-tropical zones where they can grow year-round. Blooms vary from 3 to 5 inches across and come in red-orange, salmon, pinks, yellow and white. Flowers last 10 days if water is changed every few days and stems are trimmed underwater daily.
Shasta Daisies
Shasta daisies bloom from late spring to early fall on 1- to 3-foot plants. Once classified as chrysanthemums, Shastas are now Leucanthemum x superbum. They have a tendency to droop over, but if they are cut frequently and deadheaded when blooms begin to fade, they will continue to bloom all summer long. They will continue their vigorous bloom if mature clumps are divided every two or three years and the non-productive center of the clump is discarded. Shastas' twisted stems may limit their usefulness to small arrangements and bouquets. As cut flowers, Shasta daisies last a week to 10 days.
Painted Daisies
Another variety, painted daisies (Tanacetum coccineum), blooms in white, yellows, reds and pinks beginning in midsummer. Plants grow about 2 feet tall and strong stems bear flowers from midsummer to early fall. White painted daisies will change color when food coloring is added to their water. Painted daisies last from a week to 10 days when water is kept fresh.
Michaelmas Daisy
Michaelmas daisies (Aster novae-angliae) grow tallest of all the daisies -- up to 5 feet -- bearing purple, lavender, pink, red and white flowers. They bloom late summer through fall and, like most daisies, prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Cut when they are fully open, Michaelmas daisies stay fresh in arrangements and vases from five to 10 days.
Marguerite Daisy
White and pastel yellow Marguerite daisies (Anthemis tinctoria) bloom in summer on 2- to 3-foot plants. Short-lived Marguerites tolerate drought and frequent division. Picked just as they begin to open, summer-blooming Marguerites stay fresh up to 10 days in clean water.
Ox-Eye Daisy
Ox-eye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) grow from 1 to 3 feet tall and are classified as invasive weeds in some states due to the aggressive growth of their rhizomes. White flowers of Leucanthemum vulgare measure less than 2 inches across and are drought tolerant. Cut blooms last between five and 10 days.
Gerbera Daisy
Gerber daisies (Gerbera jamesonii or Gerbera x hybrid), native to the Traansvaal area of South Africa, grow as tender perennials or container plants in temperate zones of the United States. They bloom in spring and summer in semi-tropical zones where they can grow year-round. Blooms vary from 3 to 5 inches across and come in red-orange, salmon, pinks, yellow and white. Flowers last 10 days if water is changed every few days and stems are trimmed underwater daily.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月29日
1.Ice Plants
Ice plants are an interesting genus of succulents, with daisy-like flowers. There is a good amount of variety among ice plants; some are low growing spreaders, others become bushy subshrubs. There are over 150 species in this genus from southern Africa. Most are easy growers that bloom freely. The botanical name, Lampranthus, is from the Greek words "Lampros" (bright) and anthos (flower).
Leaves: The stocky leaves grow in pairs and can be cylindrical or almost triangular. They are short, very succulent and often blue-green.
Flowers: Daisy-like flowers with thin petals that only open in the sun. Different species bloom in vivid shades of yellow, orange, pink and red. The flowers form near the stem tips. Some varieties bloom over a long period, others only a few weeks.
Botanical Name
Lampranthus species and hybrids
Common Names
Ice Plant. You may see individual species labeled as Ice Plants and some have quantifiers like Trailing Ice Plant. It can be confusing. If you are looking for a specific plant, you would be wise to have the botanical name.
Cold Hardiness
Hardiness will vary with the species and variety, but most are only perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 - 10. Some species can tolerate a light frost, but despite their name, prolonged periods of cold, damp conditions will cause them to rot. Gardeners in colder areas can grow them as annuals or houseplants.
Sun Exposure
All varieties of ice plant grow and bloom best in full sun.
Mature Plant Size
The size will vary among the species, but most of the commonly grown ice plant varieties remain 2 ft. (60 cm) tall or lower, with a spreading habit.
Bloom Time
Many ice plants put on their best show in spring, with sporadic repeat blooms throughout the season, however, a few, like Lampranthus spectabilis, bloom all summer.
Suggested Varieties of Ice Plant
Lampranthus aurantiacus - Spring blooming, upright plant with bright orange petals around a yellow center. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus coccineus / Redflush Ice Plant - Bright red flowers throughout the season. Somewhat frost tolerant. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus haworthii - Blue-green leaves held up like a candelabra are covered with pink or purple flowers in the spring. Repeat blooms sporadically. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus spectabilis /Trailing Ice Plant- Long blooming in white or purple-pink. Low growing and spreading. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Design Suggestions Using Ice Plant
Where the plants are hardy, they make a nice ground cover. Ice plants thrive in poor soil and make a wonderful alpine or rock garden plant or tucked in a stone wall. Their spreading habit means they quickly fill a container and spill over, so they are equally nice in hanging baskets and free-standing containers.
2.Growing and Caring for Ice Plants
Ice Plant Growing Tips
Soil: A neutral soil pH is fine, but it is more important to provide sandy, well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left in wet or damp soil for prolonged periods of time.
Planting: Ice Plants can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds need warm temperatures (55 F.) to germinate. Taking cuttings is the fastest method. Make cuttings while the plant is actively growing, from spring to early fall. Cut shoots about 3 - 6 inches long and remove all but the top set of leaves.
Succulent cuttings should be allowed to dry slightly and callus. Leave them out in the air for several hours or overnight. Then root in sandy soil, in containers. Keep the soil evenly moist, until the cutting root. You can tell they have rooted by gently tugging on them. If they offer resistance, they have rooted and can be potted up.
Caring for Ice Plants
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant, however, they do prefer regular weekly watering during the summer. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant.
Flowering is more abundant if container grown plants are fed a balanced fertilizer, according to label directions. In-ground plants should be fed if the soil is poor or if blooming is sparse.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring.
Pests & Problems of Ice Plants
Weather is the biggest problem when growing Ice Plants. Few diseases have been reported, but mealy bug and scale can occasionally infest.
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