文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月20日
Distribution and habitat: Aeonium arboreum is a subtropical succulent sub-shrub native to the hillsides of the Canary Islands where their natural range includes arid desert regions.
It bears rosettes of leaves and large pyramidal panicles of bright yellow flowers in the spring. Each rosette that bloom will die.
Description: Aeonium arboreum is a treelike in that its woody stems branch out freely, but it is unlikely to exceed 90cm (3 feet) in height. The 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long leaves of its rosettes are spoon-shaped and shiny green. The leaf rosettes are arranged at the ends of its branches.
These plants grow quickly and produce abundant small, star-like, bisexual, yellow flowers on racemes from late winter through early spring. Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The rosette die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, they will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. New plants can be started from the seed.
Proper care: In regions where winters are cool, Aeonium arboreum plants appreciate summer sun outdoors and then can grow indoors as houseplants when weather cools.
Aeonium arboreum plants are quick growers. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, the broken stem can be used for propagation.
The plants tend to go dormant in the summer and look a little tired sometimes, but they perk up again in the fall. Care should be taken with these plants to avoid overwatering.
Light: To keep their form, Aeonium arboreum need full sunlight, even during rest periods when they are not actively growing. Too lithe light will result in elongate, prematurely falling leaves and gap rosettes.
Temperature: Aeonium arboreum grow well in warm rooms about 18 to 24°C (64-75°F), but like most other succulents – they are not tropical plants. If possible they should be encouraged to rest during the winter months by being moved to a cool place – preferable around 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water Aeonium arboreum moderately – enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout, but allowing the top 1cm (0.4 inch) of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
During the rest period, allow half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Less than this will result in shriveled leaves. On the other hand, over-watering will encourage soft, untypical leaf growth, which is likely to droop.
Feeding: Use liquid fertiliser about every two weeks during the active growth period only.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part coarse sand or a substance such as perlite added to two parts of a standard soil based mixture. Because Aeonium arboreum can grow quickly, the taller kinds should be moved into pots one size larger every year, preferably just as new growth begins. Newly potted plants should be especially firmly pressed into the potting mixture and taller Aeonium arboreum must be staked.
Gardening: The Aeonium arboreum thrives in temperatures that range from 4 to 38°C (40-100°F). During the winter, it will grow best with nighttime temperatures of 10°C (50°F). These succulents can be interesting and fun plants to grow, thriving outdoors in areas with dry summers and warm winters. The ideal climates are Mediterranean- relatively dry with seasonal rainfall (preferably in winters, not summers) and no freezes. Growing these plants in the tropics, the hot deserts or where it snows will be very difficult.
These plants are suitable for pots and they can be moved in and out depending on weather situations. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground.
Position: Aeonium arboreum grows best in full sun during the cooler months and when grown in coastal areas. When grown inland or during the summer, provide these succulents with afternoon or partial shade. Avoid placing Aeonium arboreum plants in sites with western sun exposures.
Soil: Though Aeonium arboreum tolerate a variety of soil types – as long as the soil is well-drained – it prefers light, porous soil. Is recommended to amend the planting site with sand and limestone chips. For container gardening, plant Aeonium arboreum in a moderately moist medium with excellent drainage such as a planting mix that includes 2 parts sand, 1 part loam and 1 part peat moss with a handful of small gravel pieces thrown in to enhance drainage.
Although it is recommended to place a thin layer of inorganic mulch, such as ornamental rock, around the plants.
Irrigation: Water Aeonium arboreum plants deeply but infrequently. Allow them to dry thoroughly in-between waterings. In the wild, these succulents go dormant in summer, so water sparingly during the hotter months, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Watering during the summer is require only in very dry conditions.
During the winter months restrict water to about once a month or just enough to keep the foliage from shriveling. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss.
It growing these succulents along the coast, the humidity and rains or mist will often be enough to satisfy the water needs of these plants. But in dry climates they will probably need to be watered frequently or put on drip irrigation. They do not need to be thoroughly watered, though as the main water-absorbing roots are near the surface with the deeper roots functioning nearly solely as support.
Fertilisation: The Aeonium arboreum does not require much fertilizer. Two to three applications of a balanced fertilizer during the growing season will feed these succulents.
Propagation: Aeonium arboreum are easy to propagate from tip cuttings. The best time to do this is early in the growth period. Cleanly detach a complete rosette together with 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) of stem, dip the stem into hormone rooting powder to encourage rooting and plant it is a moistened mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or a substance such as perlite.
Cuttings will root in two to there weeks in a warm room – 18 to 24°C (64-75°F) if given bright light and watered only enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. They can then be repotted in the potting mixture that is used for mature plants.
Propagate by seed sown at 18-24°C (64-75°F) in spring, but is a slow propagation method.
Problems: Aeonium arboreum plants enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems or growing tips and roots. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter.
Though Aeonium arboreum is not particularly susceptible to infestations, insect pests include aphids, mealybugs, scale insects and thrips.
Treatment: Combat these insects with horticultural soaps or neem oil. However, care should be taken when using soap spays as too frequent spraying can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
If an Aeonium arboreum succulent is planted in a site with poor drainage, its roots may rot.
Treatment: Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy.
Temperatures below minus 7°C (20°F) will badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 38°C (100°F) will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry.
Slugs, snails, deer, grasshoppers can do some damage to Aeonium arboreum plants and the occasional bird may take a bite.
Lifespan: Aeonium arboreum is a monocarpic species, meaning that it dies after flowering. It is expected to live about 3 to 10 years as it reach its full maturity. Although their yellow flowers are attractive, each time they bloom, a rosette dies. Flowering can be avoided by clipping off the flowerheads as they begin to emerge. Also, this succulent can be preserved in time by cutting the terminal rosette every year in late winter and propagating it by planting the rosette at the plant’s base, where it will form roots, creating a new Aeonium arboreum plant.
Recommended varieties:
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum (Dark Purple Houseleek Tree, Black rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) has a slightly smaller deep purple leaves, but the colouring loses intensity if the plant is grown in full sunlight.
Aeonium arboreum cv. Schwarzkopf (Aeonium Blacktop, Black Rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) is a variety with almost black foliage.
Aeonium arboreum var. albovariegatum is a variety with white margined leaves.
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum forma cristata (Crested Black rose, Crested Black Beauty, Crested Black Tree Aeonium) is a crested succulent shrub that produces magnificent, fun shaped purple, leaf rosettes at the ends of its branches and seems to to change in and out of its crested mode during the years.
Companion plants: Consider growing Aeonium arboreum as part of a cactus or succulent display. It can be combined with other plants such as Aloe, Agave, Crassula (jade plants), evergreen Echeverias species or can be combined with other members of its own genus.
Note: Aeonium species are often confused with Echeverias species or other several rosette-like succulents such as Dudleyas, Graptopetalums, Pachyverias and Graptoverias species.
One thing that sets these plants apart is the way their leaves attach to the stem – they are wrapped around the stem with a fibrous attachment so that when a leaf is pulled away, the stem is intact with only a transverse line showing where the leaf was attached. The other rosette Crassulaceas have succulent attachments and their being pulled off the stem leaves a divot in the stem.
Uses and display: Aeonium arboreum make excellent bedding plants, since their architectural shape contrasts well with most other bedding plants. When grown in the garden, Aeonium arboreum command the most attention in masses. Place them along sunny borders or in rockeries or they can be used as part of xeriscaping, being drought tolerant plants. These succulents are often used in architectural city and courtyard gardens in coastal mediterranean sub-tropical climate. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow a new one in spring.
Aeonium arboreum can also be used effectively planted in containers and grown indoors. Consider growing them as part of a cactus or succulent display. Aeonium arboreum is a tall variety with bonsai like look when they get shrubby. They can be trimmed if they get leggy.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green or coloured
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 90cm (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 18°C max 24°C (64-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
It bears rosettes of leaves and large pyramidal panicles of bright yellow flowers in the spring. Each rosette that bloom will die.
Description: Aeonium arboreum is a treelike in that its woody stems branch out freely, but it is unlikely to exceed 90cm (3 feet) in height. The 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long leaves of its rosettes are spoon-shaped and shiny green. The leaf rosettes are arranged at the ends of its branches.
These plants grow quickly and produce abundant small, star-like, bisexual, yellow flowers on racemes from late winter through early spring. Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The rosette die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, they will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. New plants can be started from the seed.
Proper care: In regions where winters are cool, Aeonium arboreum plants appreciate summer sun outdoors and then can grow indoors as houseplants when weather cools.
Aeonium arboreum plants are quick growers. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, the broken stem can be used for propagation.
The plants tend to go dormant in the summer and look a little tired sometimes, but they perk up again in the fall. Care should be taken with these plants to avoid overwatering.
Light: To keep their form, Aeonium arboreum need full sunlight, even during rest periods when they are not actively growing. Too lithe light will result in elongate, prematurely falling leaves and gap rosettes.
Temperature: Aeonium arboreum grow well in warm rooms about 18 to 24°C (64-75°F), but like most other succulents – they are not tropical plants. If possible they should be encouraged to rest during the winter months by being moved to a cool place – preferable around 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water Aeonium arboreum moderately – enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout, but allowing the top 1cm (0.4 inch) of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
During the rest period, allow half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Less than this will result in shriveled leaves. On the other hand, over-watering will encourage soft, untypical leaf growth, which is likely to droop.
Feeding: Use liquid fertiliser about every two weeks during the active growth period only.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part coarse sand or a substance such as perlite added to two parts of a standard soil based mixture. Because Aeonium arboreum can grow quickly, the taller kinds should be moved into pots one size larger every year, preferably just as new growth begins. Newly potted plants should be especially firmly pressed into the potting mixture and taller Aeonium arboreum must be staked.
Gardening: The Aeonium arboreum thrives in temperatures that range from 4 to 38°C (40-100°F). During the winter, it will grow best with nighttime temperatures of 10°C (50°F). These succulents can be interesting and fun plants to grow, thriving outdoors in areas with dry summers and warm winters. The ideal climates are Mediterranean- relatively dry with seasonal rainfall (preferably in winters, not summers) and no freezes. Growing these plants in the tropics, the hot deserts or where it snows will be very difficult.
These plants are suitable for pots and they can be moved in and out depending on weather situations. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground.
Position: Aeonium arboreum grows best in full sun during the cooler months and when grown in coastal areas. When grown inland or during the summer, provide these succulents with afternoon or partial shade. Avoid placing Aeonium arboreum plants in sites with western sun exposures.
Soil: Though Aeonium arboreum tolerate a variety of soil types – as long as the soil is well-drained – it prefers light, porous soil. Is recommended to amend the planting site with sand and limestone chips. For container gardening, plant Aeonium arboreum in a moderately moist medium with excellent drainage such as a planting mix that includes 2 parts sand, 1 part loam and 1 part peat moss with a handful of small gravel pieces thrown in to enhance drainage.
Although it is recommended to place a thin layer of inorganic mulch, such as ornamental rock, around the plants.
Irrigation: Water Aeonium arboreum plants deeply but infrequently. Allow them to dry thoroughly in-between waterings. In the wild, these succulents go dormant in summer, so water sparingly during the hotter months, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Watering during the summer is require only in very dry conditions.
During the winter months restrict water to about once a month or just enough to keep the foliage from shriveling. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss.
It growing these succulents along the coast, the humidity and rains or mist will often be enough to satisfy the water needs of these plants. But in dry climates they will probably need to be watered frequently or put on drip irrigation. They do not need to be thoroughly watered, though as the main water-absorbing roots are near the surface with the deeper roots functioning nearly solely as support.
Fertilisation: The Aeonium arboreum does not require much fertilizer. Two to three applications of a balanced fertilizer during the growing season will feed these succulents.
Propagation: Aeonium arboreum are easy to propagate from tip cuttings. The best time to do this is early in the growth period. Cleanly detach a complete rosette together with 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) of stem, dip the stem into hormone rooting powder to encourage rooting and plant it is a moistened mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or a substance such as perlite.
Cuttings will root in two to there weeks in a warm room – 18 to 24°C (64-75°F) if given bright light and watered only enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. They can then be repotted in the potting mixture that is used for mature plants.
Propagate by seed sown at 18-24°C (64-75°F) in spring, but is a slow propagation method.
Problems: Aeonium arboreum plants enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems or growing tips and roots. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter.
Though Aeonium arboreum is not particularly susceptible to infestations, insect pests include aphids, mealybugs, scale insects and thrips.
Treatment: Combat these insects with horticultural soaps or neem oil. However, care should be taken when using soap spays as too frequent spraying can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
If an Aeonium arboreum succulent is planted in a site with poor drainage, its roots may rot.
Treatment: Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy.
Temperatures below minus 7°C (20°F) will badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 38°C (100°F) will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry.
Slugs, snails, deer, grasshoppers can do some damage to Aeonium arboreum plants and the occasional bird may take a bite.
Lifespan: Aeonium arboreum is a monocarpic species, meaning that it dies after flowering. It is expected to live about 3 to 10 years as it reach its full maturity. Although their yellow flowers are attractive, each time they bloom, a rosette dies. Flowering can be avoided by clipping off the flowerheads as they begin to emerge. Also, this succulent can be preserved in time by cutting the terminal rosette every year in late winter and propagating it by planting the rosette at the plant’s base, where it will form roots, creating a new Aeonium arboreum plant.
Recommended varieties:
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum (Dark Purple Houseleek Tree, Black rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) has a slightly smaller deep purple leaves, but the colouring loses intensity if the plant is grown in full sunlight.
Aeonium arboreum cv. Schwarzkopf (Aeonium Blacktop, Black Rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) is a variety with almost black foliage.
Aeonium arboreum var. albovariegatum is a variety with white margined leaves.
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum forma cristata (Crested Black rose, Crested Black Beauty, Crested Black Tree Aeonium) is a crested succulent shrub that produces magnificent, fun shaped purple, leaf rosettes at the ends of its branches and seems to to change in and out of its crested mode during the years.
Companion plants: Consider growing Aeonium arboreum as part of a cactus or succulent display. It can be combined with other plants such as Aloe, Agave, Crassula (jade plants), evergreen Echeverias species or can be combined with other members of its own genus.
Note: Aeonium species are often confused with Echeverias species or other several rosette-like succulents such as Dudleyas, Graptopetalums, Pachyverias and Graptoverias species.
One thing that sets these plants apart is the way their leaves attach to the stem – they are wrapped around the stem with a fibrous attachment so that when a leaf is pulled away, the stem is intact with only a transverse line showing where the leaf was attached. The other rosette Crassulaceas have succulent attachments and their being pulled off the stem leaves a divot in the stem.
Uses and display: Aeonium arboreum make excellent bedding plants, since their architectural shape contrasts well with most other bedding plants. When grown in the garden, Aeonium arboreum command the most attention in masses. Place them along sunny borders or in rockeries or they can be used as part of xeriscaping, being drought tolerant plants. These succulents are often used in architectural city and courtyard gardens in coastal mediterranean sub-tropical climate. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow a new one in spring.
Aeonium arboreum can also be used effectively planted in containers and grown indoors. Consider growing them as part of a cactus or succulent display. Aeonium arboreum is a tall variety with bonsai like look when they get shrubby. They can be trimmed if they get leggy.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green or coloured
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 90cm (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 18°C max 24°C (64-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月16日
Distribution and habitat: Bryophyllum daigremontianum is a succulent perennial plant native to the Fiherenana River valley and Androhibolava mountains in southwest Madagascar. It has been introduced to numerous tropical and subtropical regions, such as Florida, Puerto Rico, Hawaii, parts of the Canary Islands and Australia. Like other members of the genus Bryophyllum, it is able to propagate vegetatively from plantlets (epiphyllous buds) that develop on the leaf edges. The plantlets that grow on the edges of each leaf fall easily and root wherever they land.
It is commonly found growing on gravelly and sandy soils. This succulent plant is a weed of bushland and disturbed sites such as roadsides, along fence lines, around rubbish tips and abandoned rural dwellings. It also occurs frequently along creeks and rivers where it is spread by floodwaters.
Description: Bryophyllum daigremontianum grows from a single unbranched stem 45-90cm (18-35 inch) tall, which carries opposite pairs of fleshy, shiny, lance-shaped leaves that are 10-25cm (4-10 inch) long. The leaves grow at an 8° angle to the stem and are bluish green with purple blotched undersides. The saw-toothed leaf edges curl slightly inward. The tiny plantlets that form in the gaps between the teeth often have tiny aerial roots attached. One leaf can carry as many as 50 such plantlets in a single season. Pink flowers, which bloom only on mature plant, are roughly tubular, 2cm (0.8 inch) long and pendent. They are carried in rather flat clusters at the top of 30cm (12 inch) tall stalks in late autumn and early winter. The plant dies after blooming. Flowering is, however, not an annual event and will occur sporadically if at all. Particularly in climates with distinct seasonal temperature differences, flowering is most frequently observed at the beginning of a warm season.
Bryophyllum daigremontianum take a year or two to mature.
Houseplant care: Bryophyllum daigremontianum requires minimal care and can tolerate dry conditions and high temperatures. It is an unusu
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 90-120cm (36-48 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
It is commonly found growing on gravelly and sandy soils. This succulent plant is a weed of bushland and disturbed sites such as roadsides, along fence lines, around rubbish tips and abandoned rural dwellings. It also occurs frequently along creeks and rivers where it is spread by floodwaters.
Description: Bryophyllum daigremontianum grows from a single unbranched stem 45-90cm (18-35 inch) tall, which carries opposite pairs of fleshy, shiny, lance-shaped leaves that are 10-25cm (4-10 inch) long. The leaves grow at an 8° angle to the stem and are bluish green with purple blotched undersides. The saw-toothed leaf edges curl slightly inward. The tiny plantlets that form in the gaps between the teeth often have tiny aerial roots attached. One leaf can carry as many as 50 such plantlets in a single season. Pink flowers, which bloom only on mature plant, are roughly tubular, 2cm (0.8 inch) long and pendent. They are carried in rather flat clusters at the top of 30cm (12 inch) tall stalks in late autumn and early winter. The plant dies after blooming. Flowering is, however, not an annual event and will occur sporadically if at all. Particularly in climates with distinct seasonal temperature differences, flowering is most frequently observed at the beginning of a warm season.
Bryophyllum daigremontianum take a year or two to mature.
Houseplant care: Bryophyllum daigremontianum requires minimal care and can tolerate dry conditions and high temperatures. It is an unusu
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 90-120cm (36-48 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月14日
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique and beautiful plant type. It usually blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. After each flowering, the plant will wither and die. It is best to ensure sufficient light treatment every day during the growth period. It needs to be placed in the shade in summer, and control a certain temperature difference, which is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds.
1、 Black mage will blossom
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique plant type, but many friends don't know whether black mage can blossom. In fact, it blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. Even some individual varieties don't blossom. After each flowering, the flowers are very small, the color is mainly yellow, and the plants usually die after flowering.
2、 The key points of maintenance to promote the blossom of black mage
1. Shade and sunscreen
Black mage likes to grow in a sunny environment, but in the strong light season in summer, it should be placed in the half shade, but it should not be placed too long, otherwise the branches and leaves will appear spots, and the color is dim. Long sunshine treatment should be given in spring and autumn and winter, and the daily illumination time should not be less than 7-8 hours, so as to facilitate the differentiation of flower buds.
2. Temperature change
Black mage likes to grow in a warm climate. The suitable temperature for its growth is about 18-26 ℃. If it is lower than 10 ℃ in winter, it will not grow well. In autumn, the temperature can be controlled at about 25 ℃ in the daytime and 12 ℃ in the evening. This temperature difference environment is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds. If the air temperature is too low, it needs to be treated with light warming.
3. Sufficient nutrients
Will the black mage blossom
The black mage will grow faster under the condition of sufficient nutrients. When he goes to the pot, he can add an appropriate amount of plant ash or bone powder as long-term fertilizer. During the growth period, he can apply fertilizer according to the growth trend. He can apply a thin compound fertilizer solution every month to provide the nutrients needed for flowering.
1、 Black mage will blossom
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique plant type, but many friends don't know whether black mage can blossom. In fact, it blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. Even some individual varieties don't blossom. After each flowering, the flowers are very small, the color is mainly yellow, and the plants usually die after flowering.
2、 The key points of maintenance to promote the blossom of black mage
1. Shade and sunscreen
Black mage likes to grow in a sunny environment, but in the strong light season in summer, it should be placed in the half shade, but it should not be placed too long, otherwise the branches and leaves will appear spots, and the color is dim. Long sunshine treatment should be given in spring and autumn and winter, and the daily illumination time should not be less than 7-8 hours, so as to facilitate the differentiation of flower buds.
2. Temperature change
Black mage likes to grow in a warm climate. The suitable temperature for its growth is about 18-26 ℃. If it is lower than 10 ℃ in winter, it will not grow well. In autumn, the temperature can be controlled at about 25 ℃ in the daytime and 12 ℃ in the evening. This temperature difference environment is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds. If the air temperature is too low, it needs to be treated with light warming.
3. Sufficient nutrients
Will the black mage blossom
The black mage will grow faster under the condition of sufficient nutrients. When he goes to the pot, he can add an appropriate amount of plant ash or bone powder as long-term fertilizer. During the growth period, he can apply fertilizer according to the growth trend. He can apply a thin compound fertilizer solution every month to provide the nutrients needed for flowering.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年04月26日
People often say that Succulent is a plant suitable for lazy people, of course! This laziness is not for you to buy it home and leave it aside to enjoy the benefits, but not to be too diligent, especially for some succulents who have just been in the pot and are still in the serving period. The novice must maintain a steady state of mind and not be too impatient. Do small actions that shouldn't be done.
After repairing the roots, I was eager to get into the pot: Most of the succulents purchased online are shipped bare-rooted. After receiving the goods, many meat lovers grab the dry hairy roots with their hands and put them into the pot in a hurry.
Correct way: After receiving the succulent, check the root system for insect eggs, trim off the shriveled fibrous roots, apply some carbendazim powder, and let it dry in a cool and ventilated place for at least one day.
After potting, I can’t help but water: After potting, the fleshy leaves at the bottom of the pot will slightly wilt. Many meat lovers rush to water, but the root system can’t absorb it, causing the fleshy seedlings to rot. .
Correct way: When we pot the succulents, it is best to plant them in wet soil. The humidity should be able to form clumps when holding the soil and disperse after touching it. Do not water within a week after potting, and water thoroughly after a week. Succulents are not better than grass and flowers, and watering can not be too often. It should be adjusted according to the state of succulents and the environment. For example, watering less on rainy days, dry soil is always safer than damp.
After potting, there is no bottom line to control water: After potting, the fleshy leaves are getting greener and there is no state at all. Some meat lovers ignore the water control and force the fleshy flesh that has not been taken. Regarding the succulents on the bare roots, we first consider feeding, and secondly, how to raise them well. We must not pursue beauty too much, and lose big because of smallness.
After potting, move around to bask in the sun: After potting, some meat lovers put Succulents in the living room today and put them on the balcony tomorrow. Moving around resulted in Succulents being slow to finish the pots, and they have been in a state of adapting to the new environment.
The correct method: After the pot is placed, place the succulents in a ventilated place with astigmatism. After a week, gradually increase the light. Don't over toss, let it take root and grow quietly.
After potting, I always like to shake the pot and dig the soil: After potting, I always want to shake the pot and dig the soil to see if Susu is in the pot. The result is that it delays the growth of the root system, and it does not even pass the delay period. It's dead!
Correct way: After putting on the pot, keep it with light, give water a week later, always pay attention to ventilation, observe more and less hands, for example, if the leaves are hard or the seedlings grow up, it means that the pots are served!
After potting, the old love pulls the dead leaves: During the slow potting period, the leaves under the plant will shrink and dry, and many meat lovers will pull them off when they see it. This causes the succulent lower leaves to continue to shrink and consume nutrients. The leaves are shriveled, which is the normal nutrient consumption during the potting period of the succulents. As long as the leaves are not lost and are not completely shriveled, they can continue to provide nutrients for the succulents. Don't owe it.
After repairing the roots, I was eager to get into the pot: Most of the succulents purchased online are shipped bare-rooted. After receiving the goods, many meat lovers grab the dry hairy roots with their hands and put them into the pot in a hurry.
Correct way: After receiving the succulent, check the root system for insect eggs, trim off the shriveled fibrous roots, apply some carbendazim powder, and let it dry in a cool and ventilated place for at least one day.
After potting, I can’t help but water: After potting, the fleshy leaves at the bottom of the pot will slightly wilt. Many meat lovers rush to water, but the root system can’t absorb it, causing the fleshy seedlings to rot. .
Correct way: When we pot the succulents, it is best to plant them in wet soil. The humidity should be able to form clumps when holding the soil and disperse after touching it. Do not water within a week after potting, and water thoroughly after a week. Succulents are not better than grass and flowers, and watering can not be too often. It should be adjusted according to the state of succulents and the environment. For example, watering less on rainy days, dry soil is always safer than damp.
After potting, there is no bottom line to control water: After potting, the fleshy leaves are getting greener and there is no state at all. Some meat lovers ignore the water control and force the fleshy flesh that has not been taken. Regarding the succulents on the bare roots, we first consider feeding, and secondly, how to raise them well. We must not pursue beauty too much, and lose big because of smallness.
After potting, move around to bask in the sun: After potting, some meat lovers put Succulents in the living room today and put them on the balcony tomorrow. Moving around resulted in Succulents being slow to finish the pots, and they have been in a state of adapting to the new environment.
The correct method: After the pot is placed, place the succulents in a ventilated place with astigmatism. After a week, gradually increase the light. Don't over toss, let it take root and grow quietly.
After potting, I always like to shake the pot and dig the soil: After potting, I always want to shake the pot and dig the soil to see if Susu is in the pot. The result is that it delays the growth of the root system, and it does not even pass the delay period. It's dead!
Correct way: After putting on the pot, keep it with light, give water a week later, always pay attention to ventilation, observe more and less hands, for example, if the leaves are hard or the seedlings grow up, it means that the pots are served!
After potting, the old love pulls the dead leaves: During the slow potting period, the leaves under the plant will shrink and dry, and many meat lovers will pull them off when they see it. This causes the succulent lower leaves to continue to shrink and consume nutrients. The leaves are shriveled, which is the normal nutrient consumption during the potting period of the succulents. As long as the leaves are not lost and are not completely shriveled, they can continue to provide nutrients for the succulents. Don't owe it.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年04月13日
Succulent flowering, will it die?
There are always rumors in the rivers and lakes that succulent flowering will die and you must cut flowers and arrows. In fact, there are not many succulents of this kind, such as Sempervivum and Valpine, although they will die, but they will multiply young cubs before flowering.
Another example is the mage of the lotus palm. Although the flowers will die after failure, only the flowering branches will die. After the flowers fail, the stems can be cut off, but if the flowers bloom collectively, they must be dealt with early.
Therefore, whether to make succulents bloom, we can decide according to its variety and robustness, but if you encounter the following situations, it is recommended to cut flowers and arrows quickly.
What kind of succulent flowers must be cut?
The first is the succulents that die if the flower fails. It is recommended to cut the flower arrows as soon as possible, such as Wasong, Mountain Rose, Guanyin Lotus, Longevity Grass, Xiaorenji, Zichilianhua, Black Master, etc.
The second is the weak growth and the fleshy stems and leaves that are not full. Cut the flowers and arrows as soon as possible. If they are allowed to continue to bloom, they will consume a lot of nutrients for the fleshy and ultimately exhausted.
Finally, note that during the flowering period of succulents, the sweet nectar on the flowers can easily attract aphids and scale insects. If you find bugs on the flower buds, cut off the flower arrows in time.
Succulent long flower arrows, pruning position is particular!
When trimming succulent flowers and arrows, prepare a clean pair of scissors, wipe and disinfect with alcohol in advance, hold the scissors against the base of the flowers and arrows, and cut off the 1cm shaft.
If there is water flowing out of the cut flower arrow section, you can dip it with a clean paper towel to prevent wound infection. After the remaining 1cm flower arrow dries up, gently pull it off with your hands, or you can use carbendazim to sterilize it.
Autumn is a very suitable time to raise more meat, and carbendazim disinfection is naturally indispensable. Flower friends can take advantage of the autumn to stock up more carbendazim~
The cut flowers and arrows can be cut with leaves!
Don’t throw the cut flowers and arrows, find a clean glass bottle at home, insert the flowers and arrows into the bottle, add water to the bottom of the flowers and arrows, usually the water is muddy and change the water, the flowers and arrows can continue to bloom~
If the flowers and arrows are full of small leaves, this kind of small leaves can still be broken off the leaf inserts and thrown on the soil to keep the soil moist, and they can take root and sprout in less than half a month~
Succulents that have bloomed, fertilize water during flowering!
If the succulents are growing and healthy, we can keep the flowers and arrows, but we need to pour potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 15 days, usually 2,000 times with water, and add nutrients to the succulents after dilution.
If the succulents grow flowers and arrows, but before they bloom, the flowers and arrows wilt and die. This shows that the succulents are insufficient in nutrients and self-regulate. Just cut the flowers and arrows in time.
Succulent after flower failure, fertilization renews and rejuvenates!
Succulent flowering will consume a lot of nutrients, and some succulents will not even lose half their life after blooming. Therefore, after the flower is defeated, the flowers and arrows must be cut off in time to add a comprehensive fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Put the potted plants in a place with sufficient sunlight, and wait for the soil to dry up and replenish water in time to promote the renewal and rejuvenation of the succulents. In autumn, the temperature difference between day and night will increase, and the succulents will soon be colored.
There are always rumors in the rivers and lakes that succulent flowering will die and you must cut flowers and arrows. In fact, there are not many succulents of this kind, such as Sempervivum and Valpine, although they will die, but they will multiply young cubs before flowering.
Another example is the mage of the lotus palm. Although the flowers will die after failure, only the flowering branches will die. After the flowers fail, the stems can be cut off, but if the flowers bloom collectively, they must be dealt with early.
Therefore, whether to make succulents bloom, we can decide according to its variety and robustness, but if you encounter the following situations, it is recommended to cut flowers and arrows quickly.
What kind of succulent flowers must be cut?
The first is the succulents that die if the flower fails. It is recommended to cut the flower arrows as soon as possible, such as Wasong, Mountain Rose, Guanyin Lotus, Longevity Grass, Xiaorenji, Zichilianhua, Black Master, etc.
The second is the weak growth and the fleshy stems and leaves that are not full. Cut the flowers and arrows as soon as possible. If they are allowed to continue to bloom, they will consume a lot of nutrients for the fleshy and ultimately exhausted.
Finally, note that during the flowering period of succulents, the sweet nectar on the flowers can easily attract aphids and scale insects. If you find bugs on the flower buds, cut off the flower arrows in time.
Succulent long flower arrows, pruning position is particular!
When trimming succulent flowers and arrows, prepare a clean pair of scissors, wipe and disinfect with alcohol in advance, hold the scissors against the base of the flowers and arrows, and cut off the 1cm shaft.
If there is water flowing out of the cut flower arrow section, you can dip it with a clean paper towel to prevent wound infection. After the remaining 1cm flower arrow dries up, gently pull it off with your hands, or you can use carbendazim to sterilize it.
Autumn is a very suitable time to raise more meat, and carbendazim disinfection is naturally indispensable. Flower friends can take advantage of the autumn to stock up more carbendazim~
The cut flowers and arrows can be cut with leaves!
Don’t throw the cut flowers and arrows, find a clean glass bottle at home, insert the flowers and arrows into the bottle, add water to the bottom of the flowers and arrows, usually the water is muddy and change the water, the flowers and arrows can continue to bloom~
If the flowers and arrows are full of small leaves, this kind of small leaves can still be broken off the leaf inserts and thrown on the soil to keep the soil moist, and they can take root and sprout in less than half a month~
Succulents that have bloomed, fertilize water during flowering!
If the succulents are growing and healthy, we can keep the flowers and arrows, but we need to pour potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 15 days, usually 2,000 times with water, and add nutrients to the succulents after dilution.
If the succulents grow flowers and arrows, but before they bloom, the flowers and arrows wilt and die. This shows that the succulents are insufficient in nutrients and self-regulate. Just cut the flowers and arrows in time.
Succulent after flower failure, fertilization renews and rejuvenates!
Succulent flowering will consume a lot of nutrients, and some succulents will not even lose half their life after blooming. Therefore, after the flower is defeated, the flowers and arrows must be cut off in time to add a comprehensive fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Put the potted plants in a place with sufficient sunlight, and wait for the soil to dry up and replenish water in time to promote the renewal and rejuvenation of the succulents. In autumn, the temperature difference between day and night will increase, and the succulents will soon be colored.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年04月07日
People often say that Succulent is a plant suitable for lazy people, of course! This laziness is not for you to buy it home and leave it aside to enjoy the benefits, but not to be too diligent, especially for some fleshy who have just been in the pot, and are still in the serving period. The novice must stabilize the mind and not be too impatient. Do small actions that shouldn't be done.
After repairing the roots, I am anxious to go to the basin
Most of the succulents purchased online are shipped bare-rooted. After receiving the goods, many meat lovers grab the dry hairy roots with their hands, and then hurriedly put them in the basin.
Correct way:
After receiving the succulents, check the root system for insect eggs, trim off the shriveled fibrous roots, apply some carbendazim powder, and dry in a cool and ventilated place for at least 1 day, lazily and then put it in the basin.
I can’t help but water after I’m in the pot
After potting, the leaves at the bottom of the succulents that are in the potting period will slightly wilt. Many meat lovers rush to water, but the root system cannot absorb it, causing the fleshy seedlings to rot.
Correct way:
When we pot the succulents, it is best to plant them in moist soil. The humidity should be so that the soil can form a clump with the hand, and it can spread out after touching it. Do not water within a week after potting, and water thoroughly after a week.
Succulents are not better than grass and flowers, and watering can not be too often. It should be adjusted according to the state of succulents and the environment. For example, watering less on rainy days, dry soil is always safer than damp.
After the basin is installed, there is no bottom line to control water
After being potted, the fleshy leaves are getting greener, and there is no state at all. Some meat lovers ignore the water and force the fleshy leaves that have not been taken.
Regarding the succulents on the bare roots, we first consider feeding, and secondly, how to raise them well. We must not pursue beauty too much, and lose big because of smallness.
After potting, move around to bask in the sun
After potting, some meat lovers put Succulents in the living room today, and put them on the balcony tomorrow. Moving around caused Succulents to be slow to finish the pot, and they have been in a state of adapting to the new environment.
Correct way:
After potting, place the succulents in a ventilated place with astigmatism, and gradually increase the light after a week. Don't over toss, let it take root and grow quietly.
After using the pot, I always like to shake the pot and dig the soil
After potting, I always want to shake the pots and dig out the soil to see if Dusuu has taken the pots. The results will delay the growth of the root system at least, and the delay period will not pass, and it will die!
Correct way:
After putting on the pot, keep it with astigmatism, give water a week later, always pay attention to ventilation, observe more and less hands, for example, if the leaves are hard or the seedlings grow up, it means that the pots are served!
After potting, the old love pulls the dead leaves
During the slow potting period, the leaves under the plant will shrink and dry, and many meat lovers will pull it off when they see it. This causes the fleshy lower leaves to continue to shrink and consume nutrients.
The leaves are shriveled, which is the normal nutrient consumption during the potting period of the succulents. As long as the leaves are not lost and are not completely shriveled, they can continue to provide nutrients for the succulents. Don't owe it.
After repairing the roots, I am anxious to go to the basin
Most of the succulents purchased online are shipped bare-rooted. After receiving the goods, many meat lovers grab the dry hairy roots with their hands, and then hurriedly put them in the basin.
Correct way:
After receiving the succulents, check the root system for insect eggs, trim off the shriveled fibrous roots, apply some carbendazim powder, and dry in a cool and ventilated place for at least 1 day, lazily and then put it in the basin.
I can’t help but water after I’m in the pot
After potting, the leaves at the bottom of the succulents that are in the potting period will slightly wilt. Many meat lovers rush to water, but the root system cannot absorb it, causing the fleshy seedlings to rot.
Correct way:
When we pot the succulents, it is best to plant them in moist soil. The humidity should be so that the soil can form a clump with the hand, and it can spread out after touching it. Do not water within a week after potting, and water thoroughly after a week.
Succulents are not better than grass and flowers, and watering can not be too often. It should be adjusted according to the state of succulents and the environment. For example, watering less on rainy days, dry soil is always safer than damp.
After the basin is installed, there is no bottom line to control water
After being potted, the fleshy leaves are getting greener, and there is no state at all. Some meat lovers ignore the water and force the fleshy leaves that have not been taken.
Regarding the succulents on the bare roots, we first consider feeding, and secondly, how to raise them well. We must not pursue beauty too much, and lose big because of smallness.
After potting, move around to bask in the sun
After potting, some meat lovers put Succulents in the living room today, and put them on the balcony tomorrow. Moving around caused Succulents to be slow to finish the pot, and they have been in a state of adapting to the new environment.
Correct way:
After potting, place the succulents in a ventilated place with astigmatism, and gradually increase the light after a week. Don't over toss, let it take root and grow quietly.
After using the pot, I always like to shake the pot and dig the soil
After potting, I always want to shake the pots and dig out the soil to see if Dusuu has taken the pots. The results will delay the growth of the root system at least, and the delay period will not pass, and it will die!
Correct way:
After putting on the pot, keep it with astigmatism, give water a week later, always pay attention to ventilation, observe more and less hands, for example, if the leaves are hard or the seedlings grow up, it means that the pots are served!
After potting, the old love pulls the dead leaves
During the slow potting period, the leaves under the plant will shrink and dry, and many meat lovers will pull it off when they see it. This causes the fleshy lower leaves to continue to shrink and consume nutrients.
The leaves are shriveled, which is the normal nutrient consumption during the potting period of the succulents. As long as the leaves are not lost and are not completely shriveled, they can continue to provide nutrients for the succulents. Don't owe it.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年03月29日
People often say that succulent is a plant suitable for lazy people, of course! This laziness is not for you to buy it home and leave it aside to enjoy the benefits, but not to be too diligent, especially for some fleshy who have just been in the pot, and are still in the serving period. The novice must stabilize the mind and not be too impatient. Do small actions that shouldn't be done.
After repairing the roots, I am anxious to go to the basin.
Most of the succulents purchased online are shipped bare-rooted. After receiving the goods, many meat lovers grab the dry hairy roots with their hands, and then hurriedly put them in the basin.
Correct way:
After receiving the succulents, check the root system for insect eggs, trim off the shriveled fibrous roots, apply some carbendazim powder, and dry in a cool and ventilated place for at least 1 day, lazily and then put it in the basin.
I can’t help but water after I’m in the pot.
After potting, the leaves at the bottom of the succulents that are in the potting period will slightly wilt. Many meat lovers rush to water, but the root system cannot absorb it, causing the fleshy seedlings to rot.
Correct way:
When we pot the succulents, it is best to plant them in moist soil. The humidity should be so that the soil can form a clump with the hand, and it can spread out after touching it. Do not water within a week after potting, and water thoroughly after a week.
Succulents are not better than grass and flowers, and watering can not be too often. It should be adjusted according to the state of succulents and the environment. For example, watering less on rainy days, dry soil is always safer than damp.
After the basin is installed, there is no bottom line to control water.
After being potted, the fleshy leaves are getting greener, and there is no state at all. Some meat lovers ignore the water and force the fleshy leaves that have not been taken.
Regarding the succulents on the bare roots, we first consider feeding, and secondly, how to raise them well. We must not pursue beauty too much, and lose big because of smallness.
After potting, move around to bask in the sun.
After potting, some meat lovers put Succulents in the living room today, and then put them on the balcony tomorrow. Moving around causes Succulents to be slow to finish the pots, and they have been in a state of adapting to the new environment.
Correct way:
After potting, place the succulents in a ventilated place with astigmatism, and gradually increase the light after a week. Don't toss too much, let it take root and grow quietly.
After using the pot, I always like to shake the pot and dig the soil.
After potting, I always want to shake the pots and dig out the soil to see if Dusuu has taken the pots. The results will delay the growth of the root system at least, and the delay period will not pass, and it will die!
Correct way:
After putting on the pot, keep it with light, give water a week later, always pay attention to ventilation, observe more and less hands, for example, if the leaves are hard or the seedlings grow up, it means that the pots are served!
After potting, the old love pulls the dead leaves.
During the slow potting of the succulents, the leaves under the plants will shrink and dry, and many meat lovers will pull them off when they see it, causing the leaves at the lower part of the succulents to continue to shrink and consume nutrients.
The leaves are shriveled, which is the normal nutrient consumption during the potting period of the succulents. As long as the leaves are not lost and are not completely shriveled, they can continue to provide nutrients for the succulents.
After repairing the roots, I am anxious to go to the basin.
Most of the succulents purchased online are shipped bare-rooted. After receiving the goods, many meat lovers grab the dry hairy roots with their hands, and then hurriedly put them in the basin.
Correct way:
After receiving the succulents, check the root system for insect eggs, trim off the shriveled fibrous roots, apply some carbendazim powder, and dry in a cool and ventilated place for at least 1 day, lazily and then put it in the basin.
I can’t help but water after I’m in the pot.
After potting, the leaves at the bottom of the succulents that are in the potting period will slightly wilt. Many meat lovers rush to water, but the root system cannot absorb it, causing the fleshy seedlings to rot.
Correct way:
When we pot the succulents, it is best to plant them in moist soil. The humidity should be so that the soil can form a clump with the hand, and it can spread out after touching it. Do not water within a week after potting, and water thoroughly after a week.
Succulents are not better than grass and flowers, and watering can not be too often. It should be adjusted according to the state of succulents and the environment. For example, watering less on rainy days, dry soil is always safer than damp.
After the basin is installed, there is no bottom line to control water.
After being potted, the fleshy leaves are getting greener, and there is no state at all. Some meat lovers ignore the water and force the fleshy leaves that have not been taken.
Regarding the succulents on the bare roots, we first consider feeding, and secondly, how to raise them well. We must not pursue beauty too much, and lose big because of smallness.
After potting, move around to bask in the sun.
After potting, some meat lovers put Succulents in the living room today, and then put them on the balcony tomorrow. Moving around causes Succulents to be slow to finish the pots, and they have been in a state of adapting to the new environment.
Correct way:
After potting, place the succulents in a ventilated place with astigmatism, and gradually increase the light after a week. Don't toss too much, let it take root and grow quietly.
After using the pot, I always like to shake the pot and dig the soil.
After potting, I always want to shake the pots and dig out the soil to see if Dusuu has taken the pots. The results will delay the growth of the root system at least, and the delay period will not pass, and it will die!
Correct way:
After putting on the pot, keep it with light, give water a week later, always pay attention to ventilation, observe more and less hands, for example, if the leaves are hard or the seedlings grow up, it means that the pots are served!
After potting, the old love pulls the dead leaves.
During the slow potting of the succulents, the leaves under the plants will shrink and dry, and many meat lovers will pull them off when they see it, causing the leaves at the lower part of the succulents to continue to shrink and consume nutrients.
The leaves are shriveled, which is the normal nutrient consumption during the potting period of the succulents. As long as the leaves are not lost and are not completely shriveled, they can continue to provide nutrients for the succulents.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年08月20日
Succulents are cute, versatile plants that can thrive both indoors and out! They make perfect indoor houseplants for small spaces, provided that you have a sunny windowsill. Get your set-up ready first by choosing a type of succulent, a well-drained container, and a well-draining soil. Then carefully pot your succulent in its new home as soon as possible to help it thrive. Care for your succulent by providing it with plenty of sunlight and a bit of water whenever the soil feels dry.
1. Choose a Zebra Plant or Gollum Jade succulent if you’re a beginner. While succulents are relatively easy to grow indoors, some varieties are easier than others! Stick to the Haworthia, Jade, or Gasteria varieties if you are unsure about what types to start with. All of these types are relatively drought-resistant and tend to grow well in indoor environments.
-If you’re in doubt about what sort of succulent to choose, pick one with green leaves such as agave or aloe. Succulents with green leaves tend to be the most forgiving and grow best indoors, compared to the purple, grey, or orange-leaved varieties.
-Zebra Plants have glossy green leaves with silver veins, creating a zebra-like appearance. They also have bright yellow flowers when they bloom.
-Gollum Jade succulents have green, tube-shaped leaves with red tips. Small white flowers form in winter.
2. Choose a pot slightly larger than your succulent, and make sure it has draining holes. You’ll find a wide variety of different terra-cotta pots available at your local gardening center! Pick a container that is just a bit bigger than the succulent to start with. Terra-cotta pots are ideal because they’re breathable, dry well, and draw water away from the soil. You can also choose a ceramic, metal, or plastic pot if you prefer, provided that it has good drainage.
-Holes for water drainage are essential, as succulents need to dry out their roots in order to survive. The roots will begin to rot otherwise.
-Succulents tend to grow as big as the pot they’re in.
-Glass pots don’t tend to work well for succulents, as there usually aren’t drainage holes.
3. Pick a soil with 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) particles to provide the best drainage. Succulents thrive in soils that drain well, so you need to pick a loosely compacted soil that will draw the water away. You can either choose a specialty succulent soil such as a cactus mix or make your own succulent-friendly soil. Simply mix 4 parts of regular gardening soil with 1 part of pumice, perlite, or turface to create a gritty, chunky mix.
-Crushed lava is also a good option.
4. Remove the succulent from the nursery pot within 24 hours of getting it. Succulents are often sold in small, plastic pots with very poorly drained soil. In order for your succulent to thrive, it needs to get out of that soil as soon as possible! Squeeze the plastic pot and gently pull the succulent upwards to remove it. If the succulent feels stuck, use scissors to cut the plastic pot away from the roots.
5. Suspend the succulent in the new pot as you fill it with soil. Succulent roots tend to be quite shallow and brittle, so do your best to protect these as you go about planting. Gently fill the sides of the pot with the soil, being careful not to damage the roots. Continue supporting the succulent until the pot is full and the succulent feels secure.
- If you're having trouble getting the soil around the roots, use your fingers to push and arrange the soil.
6. Space the succulents apart if you're planting more than 1 in a pot. Succulents don’t mind sharing a pot as long as each plant has breathing space. Leave a gap that's approximately 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) between each succulent to ensure that the air can flow well and that each plant gets plenty of light.
-Outdoor succulents are fine being clumped close together because there is greater light and air flow in outdoor environments.
-Succulents naturally grow in warm, arid climates, which is why they require good air circulation to survive.
7. Keep the succulent in a bright spot with at least 6 hours of sun per day. Generally, indoor succulents love bright light and will thrive. Place the succulent on a sunny south or west-facing windowsill to ensure that it gets plenty of sun. It's okay if the succulent doesn't get full sun all day long, provided that it gets a minimum of 6 hours.
-If you notice the leaves are getting scorched, try using a sheer curtain to provide the succulent with a bit of protection.
8. Get a pitcher, watering can, or pipette to water the succulent. Succulents do best when the water is delivered directly to the soil rather than drenched over the whole plant. Find a tool that works for the size of your succulent. For example, pitchers or watering cans are good for larger succulents, while pipettes are best for very young or small plants.
9. Give the succulent water every 1-3 weeks, whenever the soil feels dry. The easiest way to kill an indoor succulent is by overwatering! Feel the soil every 3-4 days to check the moisture level. Only water the succulent when the water feels completely dry and never when it’s damp or wet.
-How often you need to water your succulent depends on the variety, the climate, and the size of the plant. When you first get the plant, check the moisture level regularly until you work out what frequency is best.
10. Water the succulent until you see water exiting the drainage holes. Hold the pot over a sink while you water it and keep an eye on the water flow. Use the pitcher, watering can, or pipette to add water directly into the soil and stop the flow immediately when you see the water leaving the container.
1. Choose a Zebra Plant or Gollum Jade succulent if you’re a beginner. While succulents are relatively easy to grow indoors, some varieties are easier than others! Stick to the Haworthia, Jade, or Gasteria varieties if you are unsure about what types to start with. All of these types are relatively drought-resistant and tend to grow well in indoor environments.
-If you’re in doubt about what sort of succulent to choose, pick one with green leaves such as agave or aloe. Succulents with green leaves tend to be the most forgiving and grow best indoors, compared to the purple, grey, or orange-leaved varieties.
-Zebra Plants have glossy green leaves with silver veins, creating a zebra-like appearance. They also have bright yellow flowers when they bloom.
-Gollum Jade succulents have green, tube-shaped leaves with red tips. Small white flowers form in winter.
2. Choose a pot slightly larger than your succulent, and make sure it has draining holes. You’ll find a wide variety of different terra-cotta pots available at your local gardening center! Pick a container that is just a bit bigger than the succulent to start with. Terra-cotta pots are ideal because they’re breathable, dry well, and draw water away from the soil. You can also choose a ceramic, metal, or plastic pot if you prefer, provided that it has good drainage.
-Holes for water drainage are essential, as succulents need to dry out their roots in order to survive. The roots will begin to rot otherwise.
-Succulents tend to grow as big as the pot they’re in.
-Glass pots don’t tend to work well for succulents, as there usually aren’t drainage holes.
3. Pick a soil with 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) particles to provide the best drainage. Succulents thrive in soils that drain well, so you need to pick a loosely compacted soil that will draw the water away. You can either choose a specialty succulent soil such as a cactus mix or make your own succulent-friendly soil. Simply mix 4 parts of regular gardening soil with 1 part of pumice, perlite, or turface to create a gritty, chunky mix.
-Crushed lava is also a good option.
4. Remove the succulent from the nursery pot within 24 hours of getting it. Succulents are often sold in small, plastic pots with very poorly drained soil. In order for your succulent to thrive, it needs to get out of that soil as soon as possible! Squeeze the plastic pot and gently pull the succulent upwards to remove it. If the succulent feels stuck, use scissors to cut the plastic pot away from the roots.
5. Suspend the succulent in the new pot as you fill it with soil. Succulent roots tend to be quite shallow and brittle, so do your best to protect these as you go about planting. Gently fill the sides of the pot with the soil, being careful not to damage the roots. Continue supporting the succulent until the pot is full and the succulent feels secure.
- If you're having trouble getting the soil around the roots, use your fingers to push and arrange the soil.
6. Space the succulents apart if you're planting more than 1 in a pot. Succulents don’t mind sharing a pot as long as each plant has breathing space. Leave a gap that's approximately 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) between each succulent to ensure that the air can flow well and that each plant gets plenty of light.
-Outdoor succulents are fine being clumped close together because there is greater light and air flow in outdoor environments.
-Succulents naturally grow in warm, arid climates, which is why they require good air circulation to survive.
7. Keep the succulent in a bright spot with at least 6 hours of sun per day. Generally, indoor succulents love bright light and will thrive. Place the succulent on a sunny south or west-facing windowsill to ensure that it gets plenty of sun. It's okay if the succulent doesn't get full sun all day long, provided that it gets a minimum of 6 hours.
-If you notice the leaves are getting scorched, try using a sheer curtain to provide the succulent with a bit of protection.
8. Get a pitcher, watering can, or pipette to water the succulent. Succulents do best when the water is delivered directly to the soil rather than drenched over the whole plant. Find a tool that works for the size of your succulent. For example, pitchers or watering cans are good for larger succulents, while pipettes are best for very young or small plants.
9. Give the succulent water every 1-3 weeks, whenever the soil feels dry. The easiest way to kill an indoor succulent is by overwatering! Feel the soil every 3-4 days to check the moisture level. Only water the succulent when the water feels completely dry and never when it’s damp or wet.
-How often you need to water your succulent depends on the variety, the climate, and the size of the plant. When you first get the plant, check the moisture level regularly until you work out what frequency is best.
10. Water the succulent until you see water exiting the drainage holes. Hold the pot over a sink while you water it and keep an eye on the water flow. Use the pitcher, watering can, or pipette to add water directly into the soil and stop the flow immediately when you see the water leaving the container.
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文章
ritau
2020年04月23日
Crassula ovata, commonly known as jade plant, lucky plant, money plant or money tree, is a succulent plant with small pink or white flowers that is native to the KwaZulu-Natal province and Eastern Cape of South Africa and Mozambique, and is common as a houseplant worldwide. Much of its popularity stems from the low levels of care needed; the jade plant requires little water and can survive in most indoor conditions. It is sometimes referred to as the money tree; however, Pachira aquatica also has this nickname.
The jade plant is an evergreen with thick branches. It has thick, shiny, smooth leaves that grow in opposing pairs along the branches. Leaves are a rich jade green, although some may appear to be more of a yellow-green. Some varieties may develop a red tinge on the edges of leaves when exposed to high levels of sunlight. New stem growth is the same colour and texture as the leaves, becoming woody and brown with age.
It grows as an upright, rounded, thick-stemmed, strongly branched, evergreen shrub and reaches stature heights of up to 2.5 meters. The base is usually sparsely branched. Sometimes a single main trunk of up to 6 centimetres in diameter is formed. The succulent shoots are gray-green. The bark of older branches peels off in horizontal, brownish stripes.
The oppositely arranged, ascending to spreading, green leaves are stalked with up to 5 millimetres short. The fleshy, bare, obovate, wedge-shaped leaf blade is 3 to 9 centimetres long and 1.8 to 4 centimetres wide. The sharp-edged leaf margins are often reddish.
Numerous varieties and cultivars have been selected, of which C. ovata 'Hummel's Sunset' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Although becoming brown and appearing woody with age, stems never become true lignified tissue, remaining succulent and fleshy throughout the plant's life. Under the right conditions, they may produce small white or pink, star-like shaped flowers in winter. The terminal inflorescence is a top round thyrsus with numerous dichasia. It has a length and a diameter of about 5 centimetres. The inflorescence stem has a length of 15 to 18 millimetres and a diameter of 2 millimetres. The flower stalks are 5 millimetres long.
The sweet-scented, hermaphrodite flowers are radial symmetry and double perianth. The five about 2 millimetres long sepals are fused to one another at their base. The pink or white flower crown is star-shaped and has a diameter of about 15 millimetres. Its lanceolate petals are 7 millimetres long and 2.5 millimetres wide. The stamens have a length of 5 millimetres. The combination of shorter days, cold nights and lack of water for several weeks will produce flowering around the beginning of winter.
As a succulent, Crassula ovata requires little water in the summer, and even less in the winter. It is susceptible to overwatering, especially during the cold season. Watering excessively can cause leaf fall and root rot. However, also the lack of water can damage it. It should be grown in a porous substrate with good drainage, which will vary depending on the climate it is grown in. It requires about 4-6 hours of direct sun, or medium shade exposures with bright light. In regions of mild weather it can withstand some light frost, provided that the substrate is kept dry.
C. ovata may display a red tinge around its leaves when grown with bright sunlight. In more extreme cases, the green colour of the plant is lost and can be replaced by yellow. This is caused by the jade plant making pigments such as carotenoids to protect from harsh sunlight and ultraviolet rays. The jade plant also does best in rich, well-draining soil. The plant also flowers in the wintertime, particularly during a cooler, darker, dry spell. C. ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs, a common nuisance of the succulents.
The jade plant is well known for its bonsai capabilities, since it forms a bonsai very easily when pruning is done correctly. Many who learn bonsai begin with a jade plant, since they are durable, easy to put through the bonsai process, and attractive.
The jade plant is an evergreen with thick branches. It has thick, shiny, smooth leaves that grow in opposing pairs along the branches. Leaves are a rich jade green, although some may appear to be more of a yellow-green. Some varieties may develop a red tinge on the edges of leaves when exposed to high levels of sunlight. New stem growth is the same colour and texture as the leaves, becoming woody and brown with age.
It grows as an upright, rounded, thick-stemmed, strongly branched, evergreen shrub and reaches stature heights of up to 2.5 meters. The base is usually sparsely branched. Sometimes a single main trunk of up to 6 centimetres in diameter is formed. The succulent shoots are gray-green. The bark of older branches peels off in horizontal, brownish stripes.
The oppositely arranged, ascending to spreading, green leaves are stalked with up to 5 millimetres short. The fleshy, bare, obovate, wedge-shaped leaf blade is 3 to 9 centimetres long and 1.8 to 4 centimetres wide. The sharp-edged leaf margins are often reddish.
Numerous varieties and cultivars have been selected, of which C. ovata 'Hummel's Sunset' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Although becoming brown and appearing woody with age, stems never become true lignified tissue, remaining succulent and fleshy throughout the plant's life. Under the right conditions, they may produce small white or pink, star-like shaped flowers in winter. The terminal inflorescence is a top round thyrsus with numerous dichasia. It has a length and a diameter of about 5 centimetres. The inflorescence stem has a length of 15 to 18 millimetres and a diameter of 2 millimetres. The flower stalks are 5 millimetres long.
The sweet-scented, hermaphrodite flowers are radial symmetry and double perianth. The five about 2 millimetres long sepals are fused to one another at their base. The pink or white flower crown is star-shaped and has a diameter of about 15 millimetres. Its lanceolate petals are 7 millimetres long and 2.5 millimetres wide. The stamens have a length of 5 millimetres. The combination of shorter days, cold nights and lack of water for several weeks will produce flowering around the beginning of winter.
As a succulent, Crassula ovata requires little water in the summer, and even less in the winter. It is susceptible to overwatering, especially during the cold season. Watering excessively can cause leaf fall and root rot. However, also the lack of water can damage it. It should be grown in a porous substrate with good drainage, which will vary depending on the climate it is grown in. It requires about 4-6 hours of direct sun, or medium shade exposures with bright light. In regions of mild weather it can withstand some light frost, provided that the substrate is kept dry.
C. ovata may display a red tinge around its leaves when grown with bright sunlight. In more extreme cases, the green colour of the plant is lost and can be replaced by yellow. This is caused by the jade plant making pigments such as carotenoids to protect from harsh sunlight and ultraviolet rays. The jade plant also does best in rich, well-draining soil. The plant also flowers in the wintertime, particularly during a cooler, darker, dry spell. C. ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs, a common nuisance of the succulents.
The jade plant is well known for its bonsai capabilities, since it forms a bonsai very easily when pruning is done correctly. Many who learn bonsai begin with a jade plant, since they are durable, easy to put through the bonsai process, and attractive.
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文章
ritau
2020年02月10日
Hello everyone, today we are going to talk about how to grow succulent plants.
* Soil
Succulents are suitable for use in soils that are permeable to water and air, dry, sterile and insect-free. A mixture of perlite and coconut bran (1:2) is recommended for most succulents.
*Illumination
When raising succulent plant indoors, place it in the window with sufficient sunshine or balcony aptly.If the summer temperature is too high, you can use a shading net with a 70% shading rate, and avoid 12-15 hours of sun exposure.
*Moisture
The principle of succulent plant watering is to water less and thoroughly,and avoid accumulating water. Spring and fall are the growing seasons for succulents, and the best time to water is when the leaves below begin to dry out. Summer is the dormancy season of succulent plants, mainly by spray watering, keep the surface of the basin soil wet.Water less often in winter.
*Temperature
Succulents are native to South Africa, where the optimum growth temperature is between 12 and 28 degrees Celsius. Therefore, the spring and autumn are the most vigorous seasons for succulents.Make sure the room temperature is above 8 degrees Celsius in winter and below 35 degrees Celsius in summer, and pay attention to ventilation and cooling.
Hope those tips may help you! Enjoying your plant!
* Soil
Succulents are suitable for use in soils that are permeable to water and air, dry, sterile and insect-free. A mixture of perlite and coconut bran (1:2) is recommended for most succulents.
*Illumination
When raising succulent plant indoors, place it in the window with sufficient sunshine or balcony aptly.If the summer temperature is too high, you can use a shading net with a 70% shading rate, and avoid 12-15 hours of sun exposure.
*Moisture
The principle of succulent plant watering is to water less and thoroughly,and avoid accumulating water. Spring and fall are the growing seasons for succulents, and the best time to water is when the leaves below begin to dry out. Summer is the dormancy season of succulent plants, mainly by spray watering, keep the surface of the basin soil wet.Water less often in winter.
*Temperature
Succulents are native to South Africa, where the optimum growth temperature is between 12 and 28 degrees Celsius. Therefore, the spring and autumn are the most vigorous seasons for succulents.Make sure the room temperature is above 8 degrees Celsius in winter and below 35 degrees Celsius in summer, and pay attention to ventilation and cooling.
Hope those tips may help you! Enjoying your plant!
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文章
ritau
2020年02月07日
What is Succulent?
In botany, succulent plants, also known as succulents, are plants with parts that are thickened, fleshy and engorged, usually to retain water in arid climates or soil conditions. The word "succulent" comes from the Latin word sucus, meaning juice, or sap.Succulent plants may store water in various structures, such as leaves and stems. Some definitions also include roots, thus geophytes that survive unfavorable periods by dying back to underground storage organs may be regarded as succulents. In horticultural use, the term "succulent" is sometimes used in a way which excludes plants that botanists would regard as succulents, such as cacti. Succulents are often grown as ornamental plants because of their striking and unusual appearance, as well as their ability to thrive with relatively minimal care.
Many plant families have multiple succulents found within them (over 25 plant families).In some families, such as Aizoaceae, Cactaceae, and Crassulaceae, most species are succulents. The habitats of these water preserving plants are often in areas with high temperatures and low rainfall, such as deserts. Succulents have the ability to thrive on limited water sources, such as mist and dew, which makes them equipped to survive in an ecosystem which contains scarce water sources.
In next part, we are going to discuss on how to plant succulent!
In botany, succulent plants, also known as succulents, are plants with parts that are thickened, fleshy and engorged, usually to retain water in arid climates or soil conditions. The word "succulent" comes from the Latin word sucus, meaning juice, or sap.Succulent plants may store water in various structures, such as leaves and stems. Some definitions also include roots, thus geophytes that survive unfavorable periods by dying back to underground storage organs may be regarded as succulents. In horticultural use, the term "succulent" is sometimes used in a way which excludes plants that botanists would regard as succulents, such as cacti. Succulents are often grown as ornamental plants because of their striking and unusual appearance, as well as their ability to thrive with relatively minimal care.
Many plant families have multiple succulents found within them (over 25 plant families).In some families, such as Aizoaceae, Cactaceae, and Crassulaceae, most species are succulents. The habitats of these water preserving plants are often in areas with high temperatures and low rainfall, such as deserts. Succulents have the ability to thrive on limited water sources, such as mist and dew, which makes them equipped to survive in an ecosystem which contains scarce water sources.
In next part, we are going to discuss on how to plant succulent!
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求助
meriunkat
2019年11月20日
Does anyone know the name of this succulent?
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桑枝：Echeveria longissima var. aztatlensis
