成长记
MichelleMarie
2018年01月08日
I now added "Hybrid impatience removed with Asian Lilies" in my "garden"
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Garden lilies provide elegant color beginning with bright Asiatic hybrids in June, through summer's regal Orientals and early fall's towering tiger lilies. The lovely lily is a tough customer, too. It grows from bulbs that not only bear nutrients for the succeeding season but act as vegetative propagation backup if seed production fails.
Multiplication by Seed
Lilies, like other flowering plants, propagate sexually by growing seeds in ovaries after pollen is transferred by passing insects, animals or weather from stamens to the central pistil. Successfully fertilized seeds ripen in pods throughout the summer and fall to the ground when the lily stalks die back in early winter. New plants rise from seeds the following spring if conditions are right, but plants may have to grow for two or three years before bulbs form and become large enough to support blooms. Species lilies multiply by seed annually but some hybrid lilies set seed only occasionally.
About Lily Bulbs
Garden hybrid lilies and the wild, or species, lilies from which they are descended grow from true bulbs, The lily's tunicate bulb grows from the interior and the outer layer, or tunic, dries and protects the growing bulb. Most lilies have energy left over to create new bulbs from which new lily plants rise. New bulbs grow larger each year until their plants also bear blooms. As new bulbs become larger, though, more bulbs compete for a finite amount of nutrients and bloom declines. Lilies take differing periods of time to multiply by vegetative propagation according to species and whether plants start from bulbils, bulblets or mature bulb divisions.
Bulbils and Bulblets
Some types of lilies, such as tiger lilies, grow tiny bulbils in the notch formed at the intersection of leaves with the plant's singular stalk. It might take a seed a year to develop into a tunicate bulb but bulbils grow yearly. In fall, bulbils fall from the plant and begin developing roots that will pull them into the ground before winter. Another junior bulb, known as a bulblet, grows around the base of the parent bulb or on the underground portion of the lily plant stalk. Bulblets are the ultimate backup: they strip away from a stalk or bulb pulled out of the ground by a hungry animal or careless gardener and scatter. Within a year or two, new plants grow large enough to bloom.
Bulb Divisions
Left alone, bulblets grow unto bulbs and grow new plants next to the parent. For this reason, gardeners choose to lift and divide bulbs to move newly mare bulbs to bloom in new positions and keep plants blooming in the original space. How often gardeners lift bulbs depends on the rate of creation and growth of bulblets that form around the base of the tunicate bulb. Most Asiatic and Oriental hybrids will form clumps that bloom for many years before bloom declines. Some are ready for splitting after two or three years. Mature bulbs bloom the summer following division.
Multiplication by Seed
Lilies, like other flowering plants, propagate sexually by growing seeds in ovaries after pollen is transferred by passing insects, animals or weather from stamens to the central pistil. Successfully fertilized seeds ripen in pods throughout the summer and fall to the ground when the lily stalks die back in early winter. New plants rise from seeds the following spring if conditions are right, but plants may have to grow for two or three years before bulbs form and become large enough to support blooms. Species lilies multiply by seed annually but some hybrid lilies set seed only occasionally.
About Lily Bulbs
Garden hybrid lilies and the wild, or species, lilies from which they are descended grow from true bulbs, The lily's tunicate bulb grows from the interior and the outer layer, or tunic, dries and protects the growing bulb. Most lilies have energy left over to create new bulbs from which new lily plants rise. New bulbs grow larger each year until their plants also bear blooms. As new bulbs become larger, though, more bulbs compete for a finite amount of nutrients and bloom declines. Lilies take differing periods of time to multiply by vegetative propagation according to species and whether plants start from bulbils, bulblets or mature bulb divisions.
Bulbils and Bulblets
Some types of lilies, such as tiger lilies, grow tiny bulbils in the notch formed at the intersection of leaves with the plant's singular stalk. It might take a seed a year to develop into a tunicate bulb but bulbils grow yearly. In fall, bulbils fall from the plant and begin developing roots that will pull them into the ground before winter. Another junior bulb, known as a bulblet, grows around the base of the parent bulb or on the underground portion of the lily plant stalk. Bulblets are the ultimate backup: they strip away from a stalk or bulb pulled out of the ground by a hungry animal or careless gardener and scatter. Within a year or two, new plants grow large enough to bloom.
Bulb Divisions
Left alone, bulblets grow unto bulbs and grow new plants next to the parent. For this reason, gardeners choose to lift and divide bulbs to move newly mare bulbs to bloom in new positions and keep plants blooming in the original space. How often gardeners lift bulbs depends on the rate of creation and growth of bulblets that form around the base of the tunicate bulb. Most Asiatic and Oriental hybrids will form clumps that bloom for many years before bloom declines. Some are ready for splitting after two or three years. Mature bulbs bloom the summer following division.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, tulips (Tulipa spp.) are dignified in the garden, standing straight and tall while proudly showing off their distinctive blooms. As cut flowers, however, they tend to twist and turn, as if they want to escape their vases. There's a method to their madness: Tulips continue to grow after being cut, reaching for the light. Keep them lasting longer -- and standing up straighter -- by properly preparing cut tulips for their new home.
Cutting the Stems
Tulip stems should be cut at an angle before you place them in water. About a 1/2 inch should be cut from the bottom of each stem. You can trim the stems of tulips already drooping in a vase, for a quick pick-me-up. Tulip stems grow another inch or so after you place them in water, according to the University of Vermont Extension, so cutting them after they've grown a bit can perk them up.
Replace the Vase
Because they tend to flip and flop as they bend toward the light source, tulips need support. They'll stand upright in a tall, narrow vase, but can also be placed in floral foam for added support in shorter, wider containers. Rotate the container periodically so each side gets equal access to the light to help tulips stand upright.
Freshen the Water
Fresh water is a must for strong, healthy tulips. Remove any leaves that will be below water level, so they don't foul up the water. Use lukewarm water, which has fewer bubbles to clog up the stems, and top off the water each day. The water should be completely replaced about every three or four days. You can also add a floral preservative to the water to help keep tulips standing up straight and living longer.
Prop Them Upright
One way to fix droopy stems is to crowd the container with other flowers and foliage. Choose other spring flowers for a cheerful display, and highlight their colors with deep green foliage. The denser the bouquet, the more sturdily your tulips will be held upright. Or, if you prefer the look of an all-tulip display, try making a little slit in the stem under each bloom, about 1/8 inch long.
Cool Them Down
Tulips are temperate plants -- they prefer cooler temperatures. Keep cut tulips well away from direct sunlight or a heat source, as this will cause them to droop sooner. Perk them up by placing them outside at night when temperatures are cooler but not frigid.
Cutting the Stems
Tulip stems should be cut at an angle before you place them in water. About a 1/2 inch should be cut from the bottom of each stem. You can trim the stems of tulips already drooping in a vase, for a quick pick-me-up. Tulip stems grow another inch or so after you place them in water, according to the University of Vermont Extension, so cutting them after they've grown a bit can perk them up.
Replace the Vase
Because they tend to flip and flop as they bend toward the light source, tulips need support. They'll stand upright in a tall, narrow vase, but can also be placed in floral foam for added support in shorter, wider containers. Rotate the container periodically so each side gets equal access to the light to help tulips stand upright.
Freshen the Water
Fresh water is a must for strong, healthy tulips. Remove any leaves that will be below water level, so they don't foul up the water. Use lukewarm water, which has fewer bubbles to clog up the stems, and top off the water each day. The water should be completely replaced about every three or four days. You can also add a floral preservative to the water to help keep tulips standing up straight and living longer.
Prop Them Upright
One way to fix droopy stems is to crowd the container with other flowers and foliage. Choose other spring flowers for a cheerful display, and highlight their colors with deep green foliage. The denser the bouquet, the more sturdily your tulips will be held upright. Or, if you prefer the look of an all-tulip display, try making a little slit in the stem under each bloom, about 1/8 inch long.
Cool Them Down
Tulips are temperate plants -- they prefer cooler temperatures. Keep cut tulips well away from direct sunlight or a heat source, as this will cause them to droop sooner. Perk them up by placing them outside at night when temperatures are cooler but not frigid.
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