文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Leaf spots on English ivy are caused by either a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris, or a fungus, Colletotrichum trichellum. Both can cause defoliation, but the fungal leaf spot is more active in causing stem infection.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Bacterial leaf spot first begins as light green, watersoaked spots that enlarge and become brown or brownish black in the center. On mature leaves the margin of the spot may be red. An infection in the leaf petiole causes the petiole to become black. Infection can move into the stem causing tips to turn black and die.
The fungal leaf spot produces large tan to brown spots on the leaves. They do not have a red margin. Black specks, fungal fruiting bodies, may be visible in the dead tissue, giving the spots a speckled appearance. The fungus can also infect stems, resulting in tip dieback.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove and destroy infected leaves and stems. Regardless of whether the spots were caused by a bacterial or fungal pathogen, removing diseased leaves will slow the spread of the disease.
2. Avoid wetting the foliage. Wetting the foliage, especially in late afternoon or evening, facilitates the development and spread of leaf spot organisms. Water early in the morning so the foliage dries before night.
3. Prune out and destroy all diseased plant parts in the fall. Thin the planting to allow better air movement and promote drying.
4. Live with the disease. The above cultural practices are generally sufficient to keep the disease from becoming a major problem.
5. Use fungicides. Sprays can be effective against both bacterial and fungal leaf spot diseases. They must be applied on a regular schedule and reapplied if rainfall is prevalent. copper fungicides are generally effective in controlling both leaf spots.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Bacterial leaf spot first begins as light green, watersoaked spots that enlarge and become brown or brownish black in the center. On mature leaves the margin of the spot may be red. An infection in the leaf petiole causes the petiole to become black. Infection can move into the stem causing tips to turn black and die.
The fungal leaf spot produces large tan to brown spots on the leaves. They do not have a red margin. Black specks, fungal fruiting bodies, may be visible in the dead tissue, giving the spots a speckled appearance. The fungus can also infect stems, resulting in tip dieback.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove and destroy infected leaves and stems. Regardless of whether the spots were caused by a bacterial or fungal pathogen, removing diseased leaves will slow the spread of the disease.
2. Avoid wetting the foliage. Wetting the foliage, especially in late afternoon or evening, facilitates the development and spread of leaf spot organisms. Water early in the morning so the foliage dries before night.
3. Prune out and destroy all diseased plant parts in the fall. Thin the planting to allow better air movement and promote drying.
4. Live with the disease. The above cultural practices are generally sufficient to keep the disease from becoming a major problem.
5. Use fungicides. Sprays can be effective against both bacterial and fungal leaf spot diseases. They must be applied on a regular schedule and reapplied if rainfall is prevalent. copper fungicides are generally effective in controlling both leaf spots.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Taxonomy and Botany of Virginia Creeper
Plant taxonomy classifies Virginia creeper (or "woodbine") as Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Engleman's ivy (Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'engelmannii') is an example of a cultivar (sometimes given as 'engelmanii'). Another is 'Red Wall', but its fall foliage color can be disappointing.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia is considered by botanists to be a deciduous, woody vine.
Plant Characteristics, Outstanding Feature
Grasping for support with its tendrils, Parthenocissus quinquefolia can climb as high as 50 feet. Its leaves, comprised of five leaflets, morph from their summer green into a fall foliage color ranging from reddish-orange to burgundy. This spectacular change occurring in autumn earns the plant a spot on my list of the top shrubs and vines for fall color. The flowers are not much to look at, but Virginia creeper berries are a pleasing dark blue.
No doubt, its fall foliage color is the outstanding feature of the vine. Along with sumac shrub, another native in my region (New England, United States), Parthenocissus quinquefolia is one of the unsung heroes of the fall foliage season.
Name Origins: Virgins and Misnomers
Parthenocissus is a backward translation (and a rather lame one, frankly) from the English, with a healthy dose of poetic license. Partheno- means "virgin" (as in "Virginia") and cissus translates as "ivy." Virginia creeper is, indeed, native to Virginia but is not a true ivy, so this part of the botanical name is misleading.
Meanwhile, the species name, quinquefolia, refers to the five leaflets of which each of the leaves is comprised. The second part of the common name is also misleading, in that the vine is a climber, not a creeping vine. This misnomer is the reason why it makes my list of ten plant names confusing to beginners.
USDA Plant Hardiness Zones, Sun and Soil Requirements for Virginia Creeper
Parthenocissus quinquefolia is indigenous to eastern North America and can be grown in planting zones 3-9.
Although tolerant of shade, the vines are more likely to achieve optimal autumn color if grown in full sun to part shade. Grow it in a well-drained soil.
Killing Virginia Creeper
Some folks dislike its aggressive growth habits and are intent on killing Virginia creeper. Since it grows so high, it is impractical to try killing Virginia creeper (a mature plant, that is) by spraying its leaves. Instead, cut the vine's trunk (near ground level), then apply the strongest concentrate of glyphosate (Roundup) you can buy to the fresh wound. An organic method of killing Virginia creeper is to dig it out, but this is easier said than done, as the plant spreads via rhizomes.
Is Virginia Creeper Poisonous?
Since Virginia creeper is one of the plants mistaken for poison ivy, many people wonder if it is "poisonous" in the sense that poison ivy is poisonous. Reader, Paula Brooks has informed me that the sap flowing through Virginia creeper vines does contain oxalate crystals, which -- for a small portion of the population -- can irritate the skin.
So you could get a nasty skin rash from brushing up against the plant, even though it is perhaps unlikely for the average person. Nor should you eat Virginia creeper berries.
Warnings, Uses in the Yard
If you live in eastern North America, you probably do not need to grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia in your yard, because chances are good that it is growing nearby anyway, perhaps along a road you drive every day (where you can get your fill of it).
But if you live somewhere where Parthenocissus quinquefolia is not a native plant, perhaps you have considered growing it (many have). If so, keep some warnings about this vine in mind:
Virginia creeper is a vigorous grower and may get out of hand if not kept in check with equal vigor. Therefore, it would not be a good plant choice for you if you seek low-maintenance landscaping.
Sticky, disk-like appendages on its tendrils adhere to wall siding, making it difficult to remove. Removal could, in fact, cause damage to the wall. So do not grow this plant on walls unless you wish it to be permanent!
Virginia creeper will climb trees and cast shade on their leaves, thus depriving them of needed sunlight. Do not allow it to grow on specimen trees!
But this plant does have viable uses in the landscape, and here are some possible solutions to the above problems (in order), should you wish to grow it in your landscaping:
Grow Engleman's ivy; this cultivar is considered less vigorous.
If you want the look of a wall covered with Virginia creeper, but without the risk, install a sturdy trellis near the wall and grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia on the trellis (keeping it well trimmed).
Do not allow Virginia creeper to grow on specimen trees! Instead, grow it on garden arbors, on pergolas, or on fences.
Plant taxonomy classifies Virginia creeper (or "woodbine") as Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Engleman's ivy (Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'engelmannii') is an example of a cultivar (sometimes given as 'engelmanii'). Another is 'Red Wall', but its fall foliage color can be disappointing.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia is considered by botanists to be a deciduous, woody vine.
Plant Characteristics, Outstanding Feature
Grasping for support with its tendrils, Parthenocissus quinquefolia can climb as high as 50 feet. Its leaves, comprised of five leaflets, morph from their summer green into a fall foliage color ranging from reddish-orange to burgundy. This spectacular change occurring in autumn earns the plant a spot on my list of the top shrubs and vines for fall color. The flowers are not much to look at, but Virginia creeper berries are a pleasing dark blue.
No doubt, its fall foliage color is the outstanding feature of the vine. Along with sumac shrub, another native in my region (New England, United States), Parthenocissus quinquefolia is one of the unsung heroes of the fall foliage season.
Name Origins: Virgins and Misnomers
Parthenocissus is a backward translation (and a rather lame one, frankly) from the English, with a healthy dose of poetic license. Partheno- means "virgin" (as in "Virginia") and cissus translates as "ivy." Virginia creeper is, indeed, native to Virginia but is not a true ivy, so this part of the botanical name is misleading.
Meanwhile, the species name, quinquefolia, refers to the five leaflets of which each of the leaves is comprised. The second part of the common name is also misleading, in that the vine is a climber, not a creeping vine. This misnomer is the reason why it makes my list of ten plant names confusing to beginners.
USDA Plant Hardiness Zones, Sun and Soil Requirements for Virginia Creeper
Parthenocissus quinquefolia is indigenous to eastern North America and can be grown in planting zones 3-9.
Although tolerant of shade, the vines are more likely to achieve optimal autumn color if grown in full sun to part shade. Grow it in a well-drained soil.
Killing Virginia Creeper
Some folks dislike its aggressive growth habits and are intent on killing Virginia creeper. Since it grows so high, it is impractical to try killing Virginia creeper (a mature plant, that is) by spraying its leaves. Instead, cut the vine's trunk (near ground level), then apply the strongest concentrate of glyphosate (Roundup) you can buy to the fresh wound. An organic method of killing Virginia creeper is to dig it out, but this is easier said than done, as the plant spreads via rhizomes.
Is Virginia Creeper Poisonous?
Since Virginia creeper is one of the plants mistaken for poison ivy, many people wonder if it is "poisonous" in the sense that poison ivy is poisonous. Reader, Paula Brooks has informed me that the sap flowing through Virginia creeper vines does contain oxalate crystals, which -- for a small portion of the population -- can irritate the skin.
So you could get a nasty skin rash from brushing up against the plant, even though it is perhaps unlikely for the average person. Nor should you eat Virginia creeper berries.
Warnings, Uses in the Yard
If you live in eastern North America, you probably do not need to grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia in your yard, because chances are good that it is growing nearby anyway, perhaps along a road you drive every day (where you can get your fill of it).
But if you live somewhere where Parthenocissus quinquefolia is not a native plant, perhaps you have considered growing it (many have). If so, keep some warnings about this vine in mind:
Virginia creeper is a vigorous grower and may get out of hand if not kept in check with equal vigor. Therefore, it would not be a good plant choice for you if you seek low-maintenance landscaping.
Sticky, disk-like appendages on its tendrils adhere to wall siding, making it difficult to remove. Removal could, in fact, cause damage to the wall. So do not grow this plant on walls unless you wish it to be permanent!
Virginia creeper will climb trees and cast shade on their leaves, thus depriving them of needed sunlight. Do not allow it to grow on specimen trees!
But this plant does have viable uses in the landscape, and here are some possible solutions to the above problems (in order), should you wish to grow it in your landscaping:
Grow Engleman's ivy; this cultivar is considered less vigorous.
If you want the look of a wall covered with Virginia creeper, but without the risk, install a sturdy trellis near the wall and grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia on the trellis (keeping it well trimmed).
Do not allow Virginia creeper to grow on specimen trees! Instead, grow it on garden arbors, on pergolas, or on fences.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Creeping Charlie, or "ground ivy" is an aromatic, perennial, evergreen creeper of the mint family that thrives particularly in moist, shady areas, although it will also take some sun. Native to Europe and known by the botanical name, Glechoma hederacea, it has naturalized in North America, where it has become a hard-to-kill weed common in lawns. Its range in the U.S. includes every state except for three states in the southern portion of the Rocky Mountains.
Part of the reason why the plant is invasive and why it is so hard to kill creeping Charlie is the variety of ways it has to spread. It spreads both by seeding and by rooting at the nodes that stud its little vines (which means you can spread it via mowing without even realizing it, unless you mow with a bag attachment). It can also spread by rhizomes, a fact to keep in mind when you're trying to dig it out. Leaving behind just a fragment of rhizome results in the birth of a new plant.
Killing Creeping Charlie Naturally, With Chemicals
People often wonder how to get rid of creeping Charlie (although, at the end of the article, you will read about its benefits, as well as some of the history behind this interesting weed). So let's take a look at both some chemical and natural ways of controlling it.
First of all, you may have heard of the well-known home remedy for killing creeping Charlie that involves using a solution with Borax, so let's deal with it briefly here.
This method has fallen out of favor, because, unless you use scientific precision in mixing the solution and applying it evenly onto the creeping Charlie plants, you can end up with a case of boron toxicity in your soil. But for those who are curious, Iowa State University's Richard Jauron says to
Dissolve 10 ounces of Borax into 4 ounces of warm water.
Then make a further dilution by mixing this solution into 2 1/2 gallons of water (this amount would provide coverage for an area of 1,000 square feet).
Assuming you're not willing to risk boron toxicity, let's look at some other ways to kill creeping Charlie, both naturally and with chemicals.
One factor that may help you decide on your control method is just how badly the weed has taken over the area in question. If the invasion is really bad, you may opt for a method that kills everything in the area, after which you would simply begin afresh from square one (whether it be starting a new lawn or starting a new garden). If you do not mind using chemicals, you could spray a glyphosate-based herbicide, such as Roundup, onto a lawn in such cases. Wait about a week before reseeding a lawn after using glyphosate.
Many gardeners prefer weed control without chemicals. At the very least, you should be looking for natural ways to kill creeping Charlie in garden areas. If the weed has totally taken over your garden beds, consider the following ways to kill creeping Charlie naturally (you can also use these methods on a weed-infested lawn that you've given up on, if you wish to avoid chemicals):
Smothering with newspapers.
Smothering with tarps, as you would in eradicating Japanese knotweed.
But what if the infestation isn't too bad? How can you get rid of small patches of creeping Charlie, removing it in a very targeted way that allows you to keep your current lawn or garden bed (instead of having to begin all over)?
For chemical control on the lawn, seek a selective broadleaf herbicide intended for use in killing creeping Charlie. Apply it around the time of the first frost in fall. Consult the label on the product to make sure the herbicide is effective against this particular weed (triclopyr, for example, is an active ingredient in some of the herbicides to which creeping Charlie is not resistant). While you're reading the label, also check:
That it's meant for use on the type of grass that you grow.
When and how to apply.
Safety precautions to take.
For natural control (in either lawn or garden), good old-fashioned weeding (hand-pulling) is your best choice.
The problem with hand-pulling, though, is that you have to be determined to stick with it. It's not a magic bullet: The weed most likely will return after the first hand-pulling, because the tiniest piece of rhizome left behind will eventually shoot up as a new plant. Keep an eye on the area so that you can catch any new shoot that comes up as soon as possible and remove it. It's hard work, but you will eventually wear the weed down.
An Herb With a Tale to Tell: History, Benefits
With all of the effort it takes to kill creeping Charlie, you may be surprised to learn that it was intentionally brought to North America by European settlers. Once you learn about the history of creeping Charlie's uses, some of that surprise should wear off, though. But before you hear that story, let's back up. You need to know a bit more information about the traits of this fascinating weed.
Creeping Charlie has a square stem that varies in length from a few inches to 2 feet. The color of its leaves also varies, from dark green to purple. The funnel-shaped flowers have a bluish-purple color, and the plant spreads to form a dense mat over the ground, making it something of a wild groundcover.
A somewhat slower-growing type of creeping Charlie with two-toned leaves and suited to planting zones 4-9 is sold at some garden centers. Grow it in a container garden (which will check its spread) on a deck or patio, and give it full sun to discourage its leaves from reverting back to their natural green color.
The plant's uses for treating ailments have been known since at least the days of ancient Greece and Rome. The famous Greco-Roman doctor, Galen, for instance, recommended it for inflamed eyes, and English herbalist, John Gerard (1545-1607) recommended creeping Charlie for ringing in the ears.
Never is it wise, however, to eat any plant, medicinal or otherwise, without first becoming informed about its properties.
If you are not an expert in such matters, you may be unaware that it is only a particular part of the plant that can safely be used, whether as an herbal remedy, a food, or a drink.
Common Names, How It Differs From Creeping Jenny, and Whether It's Poisonous
It wasn't only as a healing herb that the plant was prized, traditionally. The Saxons used creeping Charlie to clarify their beers, in the same way that hops vine is now used. In fact, an alternate common name for the plant is "gill" (or "gill-over-the-ground"), which comes from the French word that means "to ferment beer" (guiller).
Sometimes, this weed is also referred to as "creeping Jenny," but that nickname is more commonly reserved for Lysimachia nummularia. Novices may think the two weeds look alike, but, if you take a closer look, you can easily tell the two apart: Creeping Jenny's leaf does not have the scalloped edges that creeping Charlie's does.
Yet another common name for this perennial lawn weed is "catsfoot" (its leaf is more or less the shape and size of a kitten's paw). But don't let the innocent-sounding name fool you: Cats, dogs, and various other animals can get sick by eating large amounts of creeping Charlie. So can humans. According to the University of Illinois Extension, there are compounds in creeping Charlie that are poisonous, being harmful to "the liver, gastrointestinal tract and kidneys."
When a plant has this many nicknames, you can be pretty sure of two things: It's widespread, and people have interacted with it in a number of ways over a long period of time. Creeping Charlie, the despised lawn weed, the invasive alien that we spend so much time battling, is just such a plant.
Do you enjoy the fragrance of a freshly mown lawn? Most people do. Well, wait until you have mown a patch of lawn that has some creeping Charlie growing in it. You haven't smelled anything yet until you've experienced the aroma of freshly mown creeping Charlie. Truly one of the joys of summer, smelling the aroma of these fragrant plants almost makes the boring chore of mowing the lawn worthwhile.
Part of the reason why the plant is invasive and why it is so hard to kill creeping Charlie is the variety of ways it has to spread. It spreads both by seeding and by rooting at the nodes that stud its little vines (which means you can spread it via mowing without even realizing it, unless you mow with a bag attachment). It can also spread by rhizomes, a fact to keep in mind when you're trying to dig it out. Leaving behind just a fragment of rhizome results in the birth of a new plant.
Killing Creeping Charlie Naturally, With Chemicals
People often wonder how to get rid of creeping Charlie (although, at the end of the article, you will read about its benefits, as well as some of the history behind this interesting weed). So let's take a look at both some chemical and natural ways of controlling it.
First of all, you may have heard of the well-known home remedy for killing creeping Charlie that involves using a solution with Borax, so let's deal with it briefly here.
This method has fallen out of favor, because, unless you use scientific precision in mixing the solution and applying it evenly onto the creeping Charlie plants, you can end up with a case of boron toxicity in your soil. But for those who are curious, Iowa State University's Richard Jauron says to
Dissolve 10 ounces of Borax into 4 ounces of warm water.
Then make a further dilution by mixing this solution into 2 1/2 gallons of water (this amount would provide coverage for an area of 1,000 square feet).
Assuming you're not willing to risk boron toxicity, let's look at some other ways to kill creeping Charlie, both naturally and with chemicals.
One factor that may help you decide on your control method is just how badly the weed has taken over the area in question. If the invasion is really bad, you may opt for a method that kills everything in the area, after which you would simply begin afresh from square one (whether it be starting a new lawn or starting a new garden). If you do not mind using chemicals, you could spray a glyphosate-based herbicide, such as Roundup, onto a lawn in such cases. Wait about a week before reseeding a lawn after using glyphosate.
Many gardeners prefer weed control without chemicals. At the very least, you should be looking for natural ways to kill creeping Charlie in garden areas. If the weed has totally taken over your garden beds, consider the following ways to kill creeping Charlie naturally (you can also use these methods on a weed-infested lawn that you've given up on, if you wish to avoid chemicals):
Smothering with newspapers.
Smothering with tarps, as you would in eradicating Japanese knotweed.
But what if the infestation isn't too bad? How can you get rid of small patches of creeping Charlie, removing it in a very targeted way that allows you to keep your current lawn or garden bed (instead of having to begin all over)?
For chemical control on the lawn, seek a selective broadleaf herbicide intended for use in killing creeping Charlie. Apply it around the time of the first frost in fall. Consult the label on the product to make sure the herbicide is effective against this particular weed (triclopyr, for example, is an active ingredient in some of the herbicides to which creeping Charlie is not resistant). While you're reading the label, also check:
That it's meant for use on the type of grass that you grow.
When and how to apply.
Safety precautions to take.
For natural control (in either lawn or garden), good old-fashioned weeding (hand-pulling) is your best choice.
The problem with hand-pulling, though, is that you have to be determined to stick with it. It's not a magic bullet: The weed most likely will return after the first hand-pulling, because the tiniest piece of rhizome left behind will eventually shoot up as a new plant. Keep an eye on the area so that you can catch any new shoot that comes up as soon as possible and remove it. It's hard work, but you will eventually wear the weed down.
An Herb With a Tale to Tell: History, Benefits
With all of the effort it takes to kill creeping Charlie, you may be surprised to learn that it was intentionally brought to North America by European settlers. Once you learn about the history of creeping Charlie's uses, some of that surprise should wear off, though. But before you hear that story, let's back up. You need to know a bit more information about the traits of this fascinating weed.
Creeping Charlie has a square stem that varies in length from a few inches to 2 feet. The color of its leaves also varies, from dark green to purple. The funnel-shaped flowers have a bluish-purple color, and the plant spreads to form a dense mat over the ground, making it something of a wild groundcover.
A somewhat slower-growing type of creeping Charlie with two-toned leaves and suited to planting zones 4-9 is sold at some garden centers. Grow it in a container garden (which will check its spread) on a deck or patio, and give it full sun to discourage its leaves from reverting back to their natural green color.
The plant's uses for treating ailments have been known since at least the days of ancient Greece and Rome. The famous Greco-Roman doctor, Galen, for instance, recommended it for inflamed eyes, and English herbalist, John Gerard (1545-1607) recommended creeping Charlie for ringing in the ears.
Never is it wise, however, to eat any plant, medicinal or otherwise, without first becoming informed about its properties.
If you are not an expert in such matters, you may be unaware that it is only a particular part of the plant that can safely be used, whether as an herbal remedy, a food, or a drink.
Common Names, How It Differs From Creeping Jenny, and Whether It's Poisonous
It wasn't only as a healing herb that the plant was prized, traditionally. The Saxons used creeping Charlie to clarify their beers, in the same way that hops vine is now used. In fact, an alternate common name for the plant is "gill" (or "gill-over-the-ground"), which comes from the French word that means "to ferment beer" (guiller).
Sometimes, this weed is also referred to as "creeping Jenny," but that nickname is more commonly reserved for Lysimachia nummularia. Novices may think the two weeds look alike, but, if you take a closer look, you can easily tell the two apart: Creeping Jenny's leaf does not have the scalloped edges that creeping Charlie's does.
Yet another common name for this perennial lawn weed is "catsfoot" (its leaf is more or less the shape and size of a kitten's paw). But don't let the innocent-sounding name fool you: Cats, dogs, and various other animals can get sick by eating large amounts of creeping Charlie. So can humans. According to the University of Illinois Extension, there are compounds in creeping Charlie that are poisonous, being harmful to "the liver, gastrointestinal tract and kidneys."
When a plant has this many nicknames, you can be pretty sure of two things: It's widespread, and people have interacted with it in a number of ways over a long period of time. Creeping Charlie, the despised lawn weed, the invasive alien that we spend so much time battling, is just such a plant.
Do you enjoy the fragrance of a freshly mown lawn? Most people do. Well, wait until you have mown a patch of lawn that has some creeping Charlie growing in it. You haven't smelled anything yet until you've experienced the aroma of freshly mown creeping Charlie. Truly one of the joys of summer, smelling the aroma of these fragrant plants almost makes the boring chore of mowing the lawn worthwhile.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The same traits that make English ivy (Hedera helix) a wonderful ground cover can also make it a pain to remove from your yard. Ivy’s resilience and lush growth make killing English ivy or removing ivy from trees a difficult task, but not an impossible one. If you are wondering how to kill an ivy plant, you will find some help below.
How to Kill English Ivy
There are two ways how to kill English ivy. The first is with herbicides and the second is through manual labor.
Killing English Ivy with Herbicides
One of the reasons that killing English ivy is difficult is because the leaves of the plant are covered with a waxy substance that helps prevent herbicides from penetrating into the plant. So, in order to be effective at killing English ivy, you have to get through that barrier. The first thing you can do to make herbicide more effective for removing ivy is to use it in the winter on a sunny day. The cool temperatures make sure that the spray does not evaporate quickly and gives the herbicide more time to penetrate into the plant. The sun helps keep the wax on the leaves more pliable and more easily penetrated. The other thing you can do to make herbicide more effective in killing ivy is to lacerate or cut the plants’ stems. Using a weed whacker or other device on the plant that will damage the stems and then applying the herbicide will help the chemical penetrate into the plants through the wounds.
Removing English Ivy with Manual Labor
Digging and pulling up the English ivy plants can also be an effective way to remove ivy plants from your garden. When removing English ivy manually, you will want to make sure that you remove as much of the plant, both stems and roots, as possible as it can regrow from stem and root pieces left in the ground. You can make digging and pulling the ivy out more effective by following the directions for applying herbicides after you remove the ivy by hand as best as possible.
Removing Ivy from Trees
A particularly tricky thing to do is to remove ivy from trees. Many people wonder will ivy damage trees? The answer is yes, eventually. Ivy damages the bark as it climbs and will eventually overtake even a mature tree, weakening branches through its weight and preventing light from penetrating leaves. Weakened plants and trees are more susceptible to problems like pests or disease. It is best to always remove the ivy from the tree and keep it away from the trunk of the tree, at least 3 to 4 feet, to prevent it from climbing up the tree again. When removing ivy from trees, do not simply rip the ivy off the tree. The roots will be firmly hooked into the bark and pulling the plant off will also remove some of the bark and damage the tree.
Instead, starting at the base of the tree, cut an inch or two section out of the ivy stem and remove it. Carefully paint the cuts on the still attached stem with full strength Round-Up. Repeat the process every few feet up the stem of the ivy as high as you can reach. You may need to repeat this a few times before you fully kill the English ivy. Once the ivy has died, you can then take the stems off the tree as the roots will break away rather than cling to the tree.
How to Kill English Ivy
There are two ways how to kill English ivy. The first is with herbicides and the second is through manual labor.
Killing English Ivy with Herbicides
One of the reasons that killing English ivy is difficult is because the leaves of the plant are covered with a waxy substance that helps prevent herbicides from penetrating into the plant. So, in order to be effective at killing English ivy, you have to get through that barrier. The first thing you can do to make herbicide more effective for removing ivy is to use it in the winter on a sunny day. The cool temperatures make sure that the spray does not evaporate quickly and gives the herbicide more time to penetrate into the plant. The sun helps keep the wax on the leaves more pliable and more easily penetrated. The other thing you can do to make herbicide more effective in killing ivy is to lacerate or cut the plants’ stems. Using a weed whacker or other device on the plant that will damage the stems and then applying the herbicide will help the chemical penetrate into the plants through the wounds.
Removing English Ivy with Manual Labor
Digging and pulling up the English ivy plants can also be an effective way to remove ivy plants from your garden. When removing English ivy manually, you will want to make sure that you remove as much of the plant, both stems and roots, as possible as it can regrow from stem and root pieces left in the ground. You can make digging and pulling the ivy out more effective by following the directions for applying herbicides after you remove the ivy by hand as best as possible.
Removing Ivy from Trees
A particularly tricky thing to do is to remove ivy from trees. Many people wonder will ivy damage trees? The answer is yes, eventually. Ivy damages the bark as it climbs and will eventually overtake even a mature tree, weakening branches through its weight and preventing light from penetrating leaves. Weakened plants and trees are more susceptible to problems like pests or disease. It is best to always remove the ivy from the tree and keep it away from the trunk of the tree, at least 3 to 4 feet, to prevent it from climbing up the tree again. When removing ivy from trees, do not simply rip the ivy off the tree. The roots will be firmly hooked into the bark and pulling the plant off will also remove some of the bark and damage the tree.
Instead, starting at the base of the tree, cut an inch or two section out of the ivy stem and remove it. Carefully paint the cuts on the still attached stem with full strength Round-Up. Repeat the process every few feet up the stem of the ivy as high as you can reach. You may need to repeat this a few times before you fully kill the English ivy. Once the ivy has died, you can then take the stems off the tree as the roots will break away rather than cling to the tree.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
There’s little doubt about the attractiveness of English ivy in the garden. The vigorous vine not only grows rapidly, but is hardy too with little maintenance involved with its care, making this ivy an exceptional groundcover plant. That being said, without periodic pruning to keep it in check, English ivy can become a nuisance, especially with regards to trees in the landscape. Read on to learn more about ivy damage to trees and what can be done to alleviate the problem.
Does it Harm Trees for Ivy to Grow?
In spite of differing opinions, English ivy can and will, in fact, damage trees and shrubs at some point, especially when the vine is allowed to run rampant. Overgrown ivy plants will eventually suppress nearby vegetation and engulf tree trunks. This can lead to a number of issues affecting the overall health of trees. While a tree may survive initially, the growth of ivy vines can weaken it over time, leaving it susceptible to pests, disease and wind damage as well as poor foliage growth.
English Ivy Tree Damage
Ivy damage to trees can eventually result in strangulation due to the sheer weight of overgrown English ivy vines, which can become rather large. As the vine climbs the trunk, it causes fierce competition for water and nutrients. Ivy roots themselves can become intertwined with the tree roots, which can further limit suitable this uptake. Once it surrounds branches or reaches the tree canopy, English ivy can block out sunlight and deprive contact with air…essentially choking the tree out.
Additionally, ivy damage to trees includes the possibility of rot, pest infestation and disease issues as trees without proper water, nutrients, light or air circulation are weaker and more susceptible to problems. Weakened trees are also more likely to fall during storms, putting homeowners at risk for possible injury or property damage. Removing ivy from trees is imperative to ensure the continued health of your trees. Even with aggressive pruning of English ivy, there’s no guarantee the vine will remain well behaved. Getting rid of English ivy is difficult, and unbeknownst to many gardeners is the fact that these vines when reaching full maturity produce small greenish flowers, which are followed by black berries. These berries are favored by wildlife, like birds, and may result in further spread via random droppings here and there.
How to Remove English Ivy from Trees
When removing ivy from trees, it should be done carefully to avoid damage to both the trunk and the roots. Additionally, it should be noted that the sap of English ivy can cause a rash in sensitive individuals, so wear gloves and long sleeves. There’s a term referred to as the “Life-saver” method which can be performed in removing ivy from trees. Basically, this involves removal of ivy in a 3- to 5-foot circle from the tree, like lifesaver candy, with the tree itself being the hole in the middle. The first step of this pruning method involves cutting away all the English ivy vines around the tree at eye level. Likewise, you can simply choose to cut an inch or two section from the ivy stem. Depending on the size of these vines, clippers, loppers or even a hand saw may be necessary.
As the individual vines are cut, they can be slowly peeled downward from the bark. Work your way down the trunk to the base of the tree, pulling back the ivy at ground level at least 3 to 5 feet. You can then cut the vines at ground level, treating the fresh cuts with an appropriate herbicide, like triclopyr and glyphosate. Paint the cuts on the still attached stem at full recommended strength. While you can normally apply herbicides at any time of year to English ivy, sunny winter days seem to be more effective, as the cooler temperatures allow the spray to penetrate the plant more easily.
You will likely have to come back later to treat any new sprouts, but these will eventually weaken the vine and it will stop putting out new growth. As the vine dries out in the tree, the dead ivy can be easily removed from the tree with a slight tug.
Does it Harm Trees for Ivy to Grow?
In spite of differing opinions, English ivy can and will, in fact, damage trees and shrubs at some point, especially when the vine is allowed to run rampant. Overgrown ivy plants will eventually suppress nearby vegetation and engulf tree trunks. This can lead to a number of issues affecting the overall health of trees. While a tree may survive initially, the growth of ivy vines can weaken it over time, leaving it susceptible to pests, disease and wind damage as well as poor foliage growth.
English Ivy Tree Damage
Ivy damage to trees can eventually result in strangulation due to the sheer weight of overgrown English ivy vines, which can become rather large. As the vine climbs the trunk, it causes fierce competition for water and nutrients. Ivy roots themselves can become intertwined with the tree roots, which can further limit suitable this uptake. Once it surrounds branches or reaches the tree canopy, English ivy can block out sunlight and deprive contact with air…essentially choking the tree out.
Additionally, ivy damage to trees includes the possibility of rot, pest infestation and disease issues as trees without proper water, nutrients, light or air circulation are weaker and more susceptible to problems. Weakened trees are also more likely to fall during storms, putting homeowners at risk for possible injury or property damage. Removing ivy from trees is imperative to ensure the continued health of your trees. Even with aggressive pruning of English ivy, there’s no guarantee the vine will remain well behaved. Getting rid of English ivy is difficult, and unbeknownst to many gardeners is the fact that these vines when reaching full maturity produce small greenish flowers, which are followed by black berries. These berries are favored by wildlife, like birds, and may result in further spread via random droppings here and there.
How to Remove English Ivy from Trees
When removing ivy from trees, it should be done carefully to avoid damage to both the trunk and the roots. Additionally, it should be noted that the sap of English ivy can cause a rash in sensitive individuals, so wear gloves and long sleeves. There’s a term referred to as the “Life-saver” method which can be performed in removing ivy from trees. Basically, this involves removal of ivy in a 3- to 5-foot circle from the tree, like lifesaver candy, with the tree itself being the hole in the middle. The first step of this pruning method involves cutting away all the English ivy vines around the tree at eye level. Likewise, you can simply choose to cut an inch or two section from the ivy stem. Depending on the size of these vines, clippers, loppers or even a hand saw may be necessary.
As the individual vines are cut, they can be slowly peeled downward from the bark. Work your way down the trunk to the base of the tree, pulling back the ivy at ground level at least 3 to 5 feet. You can then cut the vines at ground level, treating the fresh cuts with an appropriate herbicide, like triclopyr and glyphosate. Paint the cuts on the still attached stem at full recommended strength. While you can normally apply herbicides at any time of year to English ivy, sunny winter days seem to be more effective, as the cooler temperatures allow the spray to penetrate the plant more easily.
You will likely have to come back later to treat any new sprouts, but these will eventually weaken the vine and it will stop putting out new growth. As the vine dries out in the tree, the dead ivy can be easily removed from the tree with a slight tug.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
English ivy (Hedera helix) is a vigorous, widely grown plant appreciated for its glossy, palmate leaves. English ivy is extremely hale and hearty, tolerating severe winters as far north as USDA zone 9. However, this versatile vine is just as happy when grown as a houseplant. Whether English ivy is grown indoors or out, this fast-growing plant benefits from an occasional trim to stimulate new growth, improve air circulation and keep the vine within boundaries and looking its best. Trimming also creates a full, healthy-looking plant. Read on to learn more about pruning English ivy.
When to Trim Ivy Plants Outdoors
If you’re growing English ivy as a ground cover, ivy plant trimming is best done before new growth appears in spring. Set your mower on the highest cutting height to prevent scalping the plant. You can also prune English ivy with hedge shears, especially if the ground is rocky. English ivy pruning depends on growth, and may need to be done every other year, or as often as every year. Use clippers or a weed trimmer to trim along sidewalks or borders as often as needed. Similarly, if your English ivy vine is trained to a trellis or other support, use clippers to prune out unwanted growth.
Ivy Plant Trimming Indoors
Pruning English ivy indoors prevents the plant from becoming long and leggy. Simply pinch or snap the vine with your fingers just above a leaf, or prune the plant with clippers or scissors. Although you can discard the cuttings, you can also use them to propagate a new plant. Just stick the cuttings in a vase of water, then set the vase in a sunny window. When roots are about ½ to 1 inch long, plant the new English ivy in a pot filled with well-drained potting mix.
When to Trim Ivy Plants Outdoors
If you’re growing English ivy as a ground cover, ivy plant trimming is best done before new growth appears in spring. Set your mower on the highest cutting height to prevent scalping the plant. You can also prune English ivy with hedge shears, especially if the ground is rocky. English ivy pruning depends on growth, and may need to be done every other year, or as often as every year. Use clippers or a weed trimmer to trim along sidewalks or borders as often as needed. Similarly, if your English ivy vine is trained to a trellis or other support, use clippers to prune out unwanted growth.
Ivy Plant Trimming Indoors
Pruning English ivy indoors prevents the plant from becoming long and leggy. Simply pinch or snap the vine with your fingers just above a leaf, or prune the plant with clippers or scissors. Although you can discard the cuttings, you can also use them to propagate a new plant. Just stick the cuttings in a vase of water, then set the vase in a sunny window. When roots are about ½ to 1 inch long, plant the new English ivy in a pot filled with well-drained potting mix.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
English ivy plants (Hedera helix) are superb climbers, clinging to almost any surface by means of small roots that grow along the stems. English ivy care is a snap, so you can plant it in distant and hard-to-reach areas without worrying about maintenance.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Growing waffle plants as part of a dish garden or a mixed container provides unusual, cascading foliage with a purple color and metallic tint. Waffle plant info indicates that the plant, also known as red ivy or red flame ivy, grows easily indoors under the right growing conditions.
Growing Waffle Plants
Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well.
Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
Growing Waffle Plants
Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well.
Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Chlorophytum comosum may be lurking in your house. What is Chlorophytum comosum? Only one of the most popular houseplants. You may recognize its common name of spider plant, AKA airplane plant, St. Bernard’s lily, spider ivy or ribbon plant. Spider plants are one of the most popular houseplants because they are so resilient and easy to grow but do spider plants need fertilizer? If so, what type of fertilizer is best for spider plants and how do you fertilize spider plants?
Spider Plant Fertilizer
Spider plants are hardy plants that thrive in less than optimal conditions. Plants form tight rosettes of leaves with dangling plantlets hanging from long stems of up to 3 feet. While they prefer bright light, they tend to scorch in direct sunlight and are perfect for lower lit abodes and offices. They do not like temperature below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) or cold drafts.
To care for your spider plant, be sure it is planted in well-draining, well-aerating potting medium. Water throughout the growing season on a regular basis and mist the plant occasionally, as they enjoy the humidity. If your water is from city sources, it is most likely chlorinated and probably fluoridated as well. Both of these chemicals can result in tip burn. Allow tap water to sit at room temperature for at least 24 hours or use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate spider plants. Spider plants are native to South Africa and are prolific growers and producers of a multitude of plantlets. The plantlets are basically a spider plant baby and can be easily snipped from the parent and rooted in water or damp potting soil to become yet another spider plant. All that aside, do spider plants need fertilizer as well?
How to Fertilize Spider Plants
Fertilizing a spider plant must be done in moderation. Fertilizer for spider plants should be applied sparingly, as over-fertilization will result in brown leaf tips just as chemically laden water. There is no specific spider plant fertilizer. Any all-purpose, complete, water soluble or granular time-release fertilizer suitable for houseplants is acceptable. There is some discrepancy in the number of times you should feed your spider plant during the growing season. Some sources say once a week, while others says every 2-4 weeks. The common trend seems to be that over-fertilizing will cause more damage than under feeding. I would go for a happy medium of every 2 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.
If the tips of the spider plant begin to brown, I would back off the amount of fertilizer by ½ of the manufacturer’s recommended amount. Remember that brown tips may also be caused by chemical laden water, drought stress, drafts, or temperature fluxes. A little experimentation might be in order to get your plant back in tip-top shape, but these plants are known for rebounding and will almost certainly be in the flush of health with a little TLC.
Spider Plant Fertilizer
Spider plants are hardy plants that thrive in less than optimal conditions. Plants form tight rosettes of leaves with dangling plantlets hanging from long stems of up to 3 feet. While they prefer bright light, they tend to scorch in direct sunlight and are perfect for lower lit abodes and offices. They do not like temperature below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) or cold drafts.
To care for your spider plant, be sure it is planted in well-draining, well-aerating potting medium. Water throughout the growing season on a regular basis and mist the plant occasionally, as they enjoy the humidity. If your water is from city sources, it is most likely chlorinated and probably fluoridated as well. Both of these chemicals can result in tip burn. Allow tap water to sit at room temperature for at least 24 hours or use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate spider plants. Spider plants are native to South Africa and are prolific growers and producers of a multitude of plantlets. The plantlets are basically a spider plant baby and can be easily snipped from the parent and rooted in water or damp potting soil to become yet another spider plant. All that aside, do spider plants need fertilizer as well?
How to Fertilize Spider Plants
Fertilizing a spider plant must be done in moderation. Fertilizer for spider plants should be applied sparingly, as over-fertilization will result in brown leaf tips just as chemically laden water. There is no specific spider plant fertilizer. Any all-purpose, complete, water soluble or granular time-release fertilizer suitable for houseplants is acceptable. There is some discrepancy in the number of times you should feed your spider plant during the growing season. Some sources say once a week, while others says every 2-4 weeks. The common trend seems to be that over-fertilizing will cause more damage than under feeding. I would go for a happy medium of every 2 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.
If the tips of the spider plant begin to brown, I would back off the amount of fertilizer by ½ of the manufacturer’s recommended amount. Remember that brown tips may also be caused by chemical laden water, drought stress, drafts, or temperature fluxes. A little experimentation might be in order to get your plant back in tip-top shape, but these plants are known for rebounding and will almost certainly be in the flush of health with a little TLC.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
When it comes to indoor plants, a variegated ivy plant can add some sparkle and jazz to an otherwise boring room, but care of a variegated ivy differs somewhat from the care of other kinds of ivy. Read on to learn more about variegated ivy care.
Basic Care of a Variegated Ivy Plant
Variegated ivy leaves will typically have green and white or yellow markings. The white and yellow areas on the variegated ivy leaves lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves many purposes, the main ones being producing food for the variegated ivy plant and protecting the plant from the rays of the sun.
This means that because of the variegation, variegated ivy care is slightly different than normal green ivy care. First, a variegated ivy plant needs less sunlight and it must be placed out of direct sunlight. Proper care of a variegated ivy requires that you place the ivy plant in indirect or filtered bright sunlight. Variegated ivy leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight. Variegated ivy will do best on a window sill behind a sheer curtain.
The second secret to variegated ivy care is to significantly reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant. Because variegated ivy leaves have less chlorophyll, the plant produces less energy for growth. This means variegated ivy plants grow much slower than their all green cousins. Because they grow slower, they need much less food in the soil. The best fertilizer care of a variegated ivy is to fertilize only once a year, at most. Even then, do so only lightly. If you fertilize your variegated ivy any more than this, excess fertilizer will build up in the soil and can kill your plant.
Keeping Variegated Ivy Leaves Variegated
Variegated ivy leaves are caused by a genetic factor in the ivy plant, but, without proper variegated ivy care, a variegated ivy plant can revert to the more standard green leaves. One key factor is sunlight. While a variegated ivy plant can’t take direct sunlight, they do need bright sunlight. Without bright sunlight, the plant cannot make enough food from its chlorophyll to support itself. In order to survive, the plant will start to grow leaves with more green area. If left like this, the plant will eventually grow only green on the leaves. If this occurs, move the plant to brighter sunlight. The variegated ivy leaves should return over time. Occasionally, a variegated ivy plant will spontaneously revert to green leaves. You will know if this occurs because only part of the plant will be growing green leaves while the rest is fully variegated. If this happens, simply trim off the non-variegated ivy leaves to encourage growth of the right colored leaves.
Basic Care of a Variegated Ivy Plant
Variegated ivy leaves will typically have green and white or yellow markings. The white and yellow areas on the variegated ivy leaves lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves many purposes, the main ones being producing food for the variegated ivy plant and protecting the plant from the rays of the sun.
This means that because of the variegation, variegated ivy care is slightly different than normal green ivy care. First, a variegated ivy plant needs less sunlight and it must be placed out of direct sunlight. Proper care of a variegated ivy requires that you place the ivy plant in indirect or filtered bright sunlight. Variegated ivy leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight. Variegated ivy will do best on a window sill behind a sheer curtain.
The second secret to variegated ivy care is to significantly reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant. Because variegated ivy leaves have less chlorophyll, the plant produces less energy for growth. This means variegated ivy plants grow much slower than their all green cousins. Because they grow slower, they need much less food in the soil. The best fertilizer care of a variegated ivy is to fertilize only once a year, at most. Even then, do so only lightly. If you fertilize your variegated ivy any more than this, excess fertilizer will build up in the soil and can kill your plant.
Keeping Variegated Ivy Leaves Variegated
Variegated ivy leaves are caused by a genetic factor in the ivy plant, but, without proper variegated ivy care, a variegated ivy plant can revert to the more standard green leaves. One key factor is sunlight. While a variegated ivy plant can’t take direct sunlight, they do need bright sunlight. Without bright sunlight, the plant cannot make enough food from its chlorophyll to support itself. In order to survive, the plant will start to grow leaves with more green area. If left like this, the plant will eventually grow only green on the leaves. If this occurs, move the plant to brighter sunlight. The variegated ivy leaves should return over time. Occasionally, a variegated ivy plant will spontaneously revert to green leaves. You will know if this occurs because only part of the plant will be growing green leaves while the rest is fully variegated. If this happens, simply trim off the non-variegated ivy leaves to encourage growth of the right colored leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
English ivy is a classic addition to any home, whether you grow it to cover a brick wall or plant it as an indoor vine as part of your room decor. Buying a lot of ivy for large plantings can be an expensive proposition, but you can get a large batch for free by rooting ivy plants in your home. Propagating English ivy (and most other types too) is a simple procedure than anyone can do with a few basic tools. Let’s learn more about the best way to root an ivy cutting.
Ivy Plant Propagation
Ivy plants are made of long trailing vines with multiple leaves growing along their lengths. Vines such as these are simple to cut and root, as long as you use the right cutting methods. One vine can be cut into multiple pieces and grown into new plants, turning one plant into a dozen. The secret to rooting ivy vines is in the cutting and care you give them during the rooting process. Propagating English ivy and related species can be accomplished in either water or soil.
How to Propagate Ivy
Cut a length of ivy vine up to 4 feet long. Use a clean pair of shears or a sharp knife. Cut the vine into multiple pieces, with each piece having one or two leaves. Make each cut directly above a leaf, and trim the stem below the leaf to about one inch. Dip the end of each stem in rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sand (or a sand/soil mix) and poke holes in the sand for planting. Plant each powdered stem in a hole and then gently push the sand around the stem.
Water the sand well and place the planter in a plastic bag to help retain moisture. Open the bag once a week to water when needed to keep it moist. The ivy twigs will begin to sprout and be ready to replant in a permanent location within six to eight weeks. Ivy plants are also easy to root in water. Trim off any bottom leaves and place your cutting in a jar on a well-lit window sill. In a few weeks, you should start to see roots growing in the water. While rooting ivy plants in water is easy, it is always better for the plant when rooted in a solid planting medium, as transplanting water-rooted cuttings to the soil is more difficult and survival rates are lower. Therefore, the best way to too an ivy cutting is in sandy soil rather than water.
Ivy Plant Propagation
Ivy plants are made of long trailing vines with multiple leaves growing along their lengths. Vines such as these are simple to cut and root, as long as you use the right cutting methods. One vine can be cut into multiple pieces and grown into new plants, turning one plant into a dozen. The secret to rooting ivy vines is in the cutting and care you give them during the rooting process. Propagating English ivy and related species can be accomplished in either water or soil.
How to Propagate Ivy
Cut a length of ivy vine up to 4 feet long. Use a clean pair of shears or a sharp knife. Cut the vine into multiple pieces, with each piece having one or two leaves. Make each cut directly above a leaf, and trim the stem below the leaf to about one inch. Dip the end of each stem in rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sand (or a sand/soil mix) and poke holes in the sand for planting. Plant each powdered stem in a hole and then gently push the sand around the stem.
Water the sand well and place the planter in a plastic bag to help retain moisture. Open the bag once a week to water when needed to keep it moist. The ivy twigs will begin to sprout and be ready to replant in a permanent location within six to eight weeks. Ivy plants are also easy to root in water. Trim off any bottom leaves and place your cutting in a jar on a well-lit window sill. In a few weeks, you should start to see roots growing in the water. While rooting ivy plants in water is easy, it is always better for the plant when rooted in a solid planting medium, as transplanting water-rooted cuttings to the soil is more difficult and survival rates are lower. Therefore, the best way to too an ivy cutting is in sandy soil rather than water.
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sheepdog：find a piece with sm. roots on stems!
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Ivies fill the gaps in both interior and exterior spaces with their flowing, textured leaves and won’t die attitudes, but even the hardiest of ivies may succumb to the occasional problem and develop yellow leaves. Ivy plant leaves turning yellow are rarely serious, though you should make some changes to improve your plant’s health.
Yellow Leaves on Ivy Plant
There are many causes of ivy turning yellow, including pests, disease and environmental stressors. Fortunately, these problems are simple to correct if they’re promptly identified. When your ivy leaves turn yellow, look for signs of these problems on your plant:
Environmental Stress
Yellowing leaves on ivy are often caused by a shock to the plant’s system. Leaves may yellow following transplantation or when exposed to drafts, dry air or when there are high levels of fertilizer salts in the soil. Check that your plant isn’t standing in water, move it from windows that receive direct sunlight and away from heating vents when you first notice yellow leaves. If the surface of the soil has white crystals on it, you may need to leach the salts from the planter by adding water equal to double the pot’s volume and allowing it to run out the bottom, taking the salts with it. Misting can help if dry air is the culprit, but don’t allow standing water on the leaves or you’ll encourage other diseases.
Pests
Mites are tiny arachnids, hardly detectable with the naked eye. These little guys literally suck the life out of plant cells, causing yellow dots to appear on leaf surfaces. As they spread out, the yellow dots grow together, resulting in widespread yellowing. Other signs include puckered or distorted leaves, leaves that drop easily and fine, silk threads near damage. Regular misting and treatment with insecticidal soap will destroy mites in no time. Whiteflies look like tiny, white moths, but suck the juices right out of plants, much like mites. They’re far easier to see and fly up a short distance when disturbed. They tend to congregate on the undersides of leaves in groups, spilling sticky honeydew on leaves and objects below. Whiteflies drown easily and frequent sprays with a garden hose or kitchen sprayer will send them packing.
Diseases
Bacterial spot erupts when the humidity is high. Bacteria enter the leaf through stomas or areas of damage, causing brown to black lesions surrounded by yellow halos or widespread speckling and deformity. Prune out severely diseased areas and treat the rest with a copper fungicide. In the future, avoid overhead watering or heavy misting that results in standing water on leaves.
Yellow Leaves on Ivy Plant
There are many causes of ivy turning yellow, including pests, disease and environmental stressors. Fortunately, these problems are simple to correct if they’re promptly identified. When your ivy leaves turn yellow, look for signs of these problems on your plant:
Environmental Stress
Yellowing leaves on ivy are often caused by a shock to the plant’s system. Leaves may yellow following transplantation or when exposed to drafts, dry air or when there are high levels of fertilizer salts in the soil. Check that your plant isn’t standing in water, move it from windows that receive direct sunlight and away from heating vents when you first notice yellow leaves. If the surface of the soil has white crystals on it, you may need to leach the salts from the planter by adding water equal to double the pot’s volume and allowing it to run out the bottom, taking the salts with it. Misting can help if dry air is the culprit, but don’t allow standing water on the leaves or you’ll encourage other diseases.
Pests
Mites are tiny arachnids, hardly detectable with the naked eye. These little guys literally suck the life out of plant cells, causing yellow dots to appear on leaf surfaces. As they spread out, the yellow dots grow together, resulting in widespread yellowing. Other signs include puckered or distorted leaves, leaves that drop easily and fine, silk threads near damage. Regular misting and treatment with insecticidal soap will destroy mites in no time. Whiteflies look like tiny, white moths, but suck the juices right out of plants, much like mites. They’re far easier to see and fly up a short distance when disturbed. They tend to congregate on the undersides of leaves in groups, spilling sticky honeydew on leaves and objects below. Whiteflies drown easily and frequent sprays with a garden hose or kitchen sprayer will send them packing.
Diseases
Bacterial spot erupts when the humidity is high. Bacteria enter the leaf through stomas or areas of damage, causing brown to black lesions surrounded by yellow halos or widespread speckling and deformity. Prune out severely diseased areas and treat the rest with a copper fungicide. In the future, avoid overhead watering or heavy misting that results in standing water on leaves.
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