文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Featuring clouds of tiny light blue flowers on spikes and finely dissected, fragrant, gray-green leaves, Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) works well for perennial borders, mixed borders, wildlife gardens and other landscape areas. This drought-tolerant, woody-based perennial is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and grows 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide. Its two-lipped, tubular flowers appear in summer through fall.
Perennial and Mixed Borders
Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun.
Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Wildlife Gardens
Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast.
Household Uses of Sage
The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties
Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
Perennial and Mixed Borders
Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun.
Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Wildlife Gardens
Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast.
Household Uses of Sage
The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties
Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Tomato plants are now a staple in the home garden. Tomatoes are high in Vitamin A, Vitamin C and lycopene. Lycopene helps ward off many cancers.
Origin
Tomato plants originally come from South and Central America along the Andes Mountains. Wildlife readily dispersed tomato seeds throughout countries such as Bolivia, Chile and Peru.
Dispersion
Tomato seeds can be dispersed by birds and foraging animals. Animals excrete the undigested seeds miles away from the original plant. Half-eaten fruit was often carried and dropped miles away from the original plant.
Fact
The ovary of a flower grows, ripens and develops one or more seeds. This is how fruit form. Tomatoes are fruits.
History in America
Tomato plants bear a strong resemblance to deadly nightshade. During Colonial Times, they were imported and grown for decoration until considered to be a human food source in the mid 1830s. Birds and foraging animals ate the tomato fruit and dispersed seed throughout North America.
Culture
The dispersed seeds of tomato plants grew well in areas where there was plentiful rainfall, full sun and well-drained soil.
Origin
Tomato plants originally come from South and Central America along the Andes Mountains. Wildlife readily dispersed tomato seeds throughout countries such as Bolivia, Chile and Peru.
Dispersion
Tomato seeds can be dispersed by birds and foraging animals. Animals excrete the undigested seeds miles away from the original plant. Half-eaten fruit was often carried and dropped miles away from the original plant.
Fact
The ovary of a flower grows, ripens and develops one or more seeds. This is how fruit form. Tomatoes are fruits.
History in America
Tomato plants bear a strong resemblance to deadly nightshade. During Colonial Times, they were imported and grown for decoration until considered to be a human food source in the mid 1830s. Birds and foraging animals ate the tomato fruit and dispersed seed throughout North America.
Culture
The dispersed seeds of tomato plants grew well in areas where there was plentiful rainfall, full sun and well-drained soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
People have grown grapevines (Vitus spp.) for thousands of years, not only enjoying the plants' fruits fresh but also in the form of raisins, juice and wine. Although wildlife may compete with you for the bounty of your vineyard, it's still possible to grow enough of the fruits at home to give you and your family a healthful and tasty treat, though it won't happen overnight. Usually, establishing a successful grapevine planting takes three years, according to the Ohio State University Extension. Because grapevines can live up to 100 years, growing them right is worth the trouble.
Check Your Climate
Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Choose Where to Plant
A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow.
Plant Correctly
Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space.
Support Your Vines
The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly
Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results:
Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth.
Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines.
Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer.
Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year.
Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Provide Water and Mulch
Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches.
Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
Check Your Climate
Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Choose Where to Plant
A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow.
Plant Correctly
Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space.
Support Your Vines
The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly
Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results:
Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth.
Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines.
Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer.
Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year.
Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Provide Water and Mulch
Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches.
Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
If you are looking for a tree suitable for a xeriscape landscape, one with ornamental attributes which also fulfills a valuable niche for wildlife, look no further than the Chinese pistache tree. If this piques your interest, read on for additional Chinese pistache facts and care of Chinese pistache.
Chinese Pistache Facts
The Chinese pistache tree is, as mentioned, a notable ornamental tree, especially during the fall season when the normally dark green foliage changes to a dramatic profusion of orange and red leaves. An excellent shade tree with a broad canopy, Chinese pistache will attain heights of between 30-60 feet. A deciduous tree, the one foot long pinnate leaves consist of between 10-16 leaflets. These leaves are mildly aromatic when bruised.
Pistacia chinensis, as the name suggests, is related to the pistachio; however, it does not produce nuts. Instead, if a male Chinese pistache tree is present, the female trees bloom in April with inconspicuous green blossoms that develop into clumps of brilliant red berries in the fall, changing to a blue-purple hue in the winter.
While the berries are inedible for human consumption, the birds go nuts for them. Keep in mind that the bright colored berries will drop and may stain or create a slippery walkway. If this is a concern, consider planting P. chinensis ‘Keith Davey,’ a fruitless male clone. Native to China, Taiwan and the Philippines, Chinese pistache grows at a moderate pace (13-24 inches per year) and is relatively long lived. It is also tolerant of many soil types as well as being drought tolerant with roots that grow deep into the soil. The bark of growing Chinese pistache is grayish-brown and, if peeled from the tree, reveals a shocking salmon pink interior. So what are some landscape uses for Chinese pistache trees?
Chinese Pistache Uses
Chinese pistache is not a fussy tree. It can be grown in USDA zones 6-9 in a variety of soils as long as the soil is well draining. It is a sturdy tree with deep roots that make it an ideal specimen for near patios and sidewalks. It is heat and drought tolerant and winter hardy to 20 degrees F. (-6 C.) as well as relatively pest and fire resistant. Use Chinese pistache anywhere you would like to add a shade addition to the landscape with the bonus of an opulent fall appearance. This member of the Anacardiaceae family also makes a lovely container specimen for the patio or garden.
Care of Chinese Pistache
The Chinese pistache is a sun lover and should be situated in an area of at least 6 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day. As mentioned, Chinese pistache isn’t picky about the soil it’s grown in as long as it drains well. Choose a site of not only plenty of sun, but with fertile soil deep enough to accommodate the long taproots and at least 15 feet away from nearby structures to account for their growing canopies. Dig a hole as deep as and 3-5 times as wide as the root ball of the tree. Center the tree in the hole, spreading the roots out evenly. Refill the hole; don’t amend it, as it is not necessary. Tamp the dirt down lightly around the base of the tree to remove any air pockets. Water the tree in well and spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base, away from the trunk to discourage fungal disease, rodents and insects.
Although Chinese pistache trees are fairly disease and pest resistant, they are susceptible to verticillium wilt. Avoid planting them in any area that has had previous contamination. Once the tree has been planted, continue to water twice a week for the next month while the tree acclimates. Thereafter, check the soil once a week and water only when the top one inch is dry. Feed trees under 5 years old in the spring and fall with a nitrogen based fertilizer. Use one that is supplemented with superphosphate only if they are growing less than 2-3 feet per year to give them a boost.
Young Chinese pistache should be pruned in January or February to facilitate their signature umbrella shape. When trees are six feet tall, prune the tops of the trees. As branches emerge, choose one as the trunk, another as a branch and prune out the remainder. When the tree has grown another three feet, prune them to 2 feet above the previous cut to encourage branching. Repeat this process until the trees are symmetrical with an open canopy. Keep leaf debris and fallen berries raked up from around the trees to prevent unwanted seedlings.
Chinese Pistache Facts
The Chinese pistache tree is, as mentioned, a notable ornamental tree, especially during the fall season when the normally dark green foliage changes to a dramatic profusion of orange and red leaves. An excellent shade tree with a broad canopy, Chinese pistache will attain heights of between 30-60 feet. A deciduous tree, the one foot long pinnate leaves consist of between 10-16 leaflets. These leaves are mildly aromatic when bruised.
Pistacia chinensis, as the name suggests, is related to the pistachio; however, it does not produce nuts. Instead, if a male Chinese pistache tree is present, the female trees bloom in April with inconspicuous green blossoms that develop into clumps of brilliant red berries in the fall, changing to a blue-purple hue in the winter.
While the berries are inedible for human consumption, the birds go nuts for them. Keep in mind that the bright colored berries will drop and may stain or create a slippery walkway. If this is a concern, consider planting P. chinensis ‘Keith Davey,’ a fruitless male clone. Native to China, Taiwan and the Philippines, Chinese pistache grows at a moderate pace (13-24 inches per year) and is relatively long lived. It is also tolerant of many soil types as well as being drought tolerant with roots that grow deep into the soil. The bark of growing Chinese pistache is grayish-brown and, if peeled from the tree, reveals a shocking salmon pink interior. So what are some landscape uses for Chinese pistache trees?
Chinese Pistache Uses
Chinese pistache is not a fussy tree. It can be grown in USDA zones 6-9 in a variety of soils as long as the soil is well draining. It is a sturdy tree with deep roots that make it an ideal specimen for near patios and sidewalks. It is heat and drought tolerant and winter hardy to 20 degrees F. (-6 C.) as well as relatively pest and fire resistant. Use Chinese pistache anywhere you would like to add a shade addition to the landscape with the bonus of an opulent fall appearance. This member of the Anacardiaceae family also makes a lovely container specimen for the patio or garden.
Care of Chinese Pistache
The Chinese pistache is a sun lover and should be situated in an area of at least 6 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day. As mentioned, Chinese pistache isn’t picky about the soil it’s grown in as long as it drains well. Choose a site of not only plenty of sun, but with fertile soil deep enough to accommodate the long taproots and at least 15 feet away from nearby structures to account for their growing canopies. Dig a hole as deep as and 3-5 times as wide as the root ball of the tree. Center the tree in the hole, spreading the roots out evenly. Refill the hole; don’t amend it, as it is not necessary. Tamp the dirt down lightly around the base of the tree to remove any air pockets. Water the tree in well and spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base, away from the trunk to discourage fungal disease, rodents and insects.
Although Chinese pistache trees are fairly disease and pest resistant, they are susceptible to verticillium wilt. Avoid planting them in any area that has had previous contamination. Once the tree has been planted, continue to water twice a week for the next month while the tree acclimates. Thereafter, check the soil once a week and water only when the top one inch is dry. Feed trees under 5 years old in the spring and fall with a nitrogen based fertilizer. Use one that is supplemented with superphosphate only if they are growing less than 2-3 feet per year to give them a boost.
Young Chinese pistache should be pruned in January or February to facilitate their signature umbrella shape. When trees are six feet tall, prune the tops of the trees. As branches emerge, choose one as the trunk, another as a branch and prune out the remainder. When the tree has grown another three feet, prune them to 2 feet above the previous cut to encourage branching. Repeat this process until the trees are symmetrical with an open canopy. Keep leaf debris and fallen berries raked up from around the trees to prevent unwanted seedlings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Oak trees (Quercus) are among the most common tree species found in forests, but their number are declining. The main cause of the decline is the value of acorns and young saplings as a food source for wildlife. You can help the tree recover its former glory by starting and planting oak tree seedlings following the instructions in this article.
Propagating Oak Trees
For convenience, the many species of oak are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. You can tell which group an oak belongs to by taking a close look at the leaves. Red oak leaves have pointed lobes with little bristles at the tips, while the lobes on white oak leaves are rounded. Propagating oak trees is good for the environment and it’s an easy, fun project for kids. All you need is an acorn and a gallon pot filled with soil. Here are the steps for growing oak trees from acorns.
How to Grow an Oak Tree
Don’t gather the first acorns that fall. Wait until the second flush begins to fall, and then collect several handfuls. You might think you are collecting a lot more than you need, but the germination rates for acorns is low, so you need lots of extras. Check the leaves to determine whether you are collecting white oak or red oak acorns, and label the containers if you collect some of each. Visually examine your acorns and throw away any that have small holes where an insect may have bored in, as well as those that are off colored or moldy. The caps of mature acorns come off easily. Go ahead and remove them during your visual inspection.
Soak the acorns in a container of water overnight. Damaged and immature seeds float to the top, and you can scoop them off and discard them. White oak acorns are ready for planting right after soaking, but red oak acorns need a special treatment, called stratification. Place the red oak acorns in a zipper bag with moist sawdust or peat moss. You don’t want the sawdust or peat moss soaking wet, just lightly damp. Leave them for eight weeks, checking every two weeks or so to make sure they aren’t molding. Remove molded acorns and leave the bag open to allow fresh air in if you see signs of mold. Fill pots that are at least 12 inches deep with potting soil. Plant the acorns an inch deep. You can plant several acorns in each pot. Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location when the first leaves unfurl. If you only have one seedling in the pot, you can keep it indoors in a sunny window for up to three months. If you prefer to plant the acorns directly in the ground, take care to protect them from wildlife.
Oak Tree Care
Early on, oak tree saplings are in danger of being consumed by wildlife. Place cages over newly planted saplings and replace them with chicken wire fences as the sapling grows. Keep the tree protected until it is at least 5 feet tall. Keep the area surrounding young oak trees free of weeds and water the soil around the tree in the absence of rain. The tree won’t develop strong roots in dry soil.
Don’t fertilize the tree until its second year after planting. Even then, only use fertilizer if the leaves are pale, or the tree is not growing as it should. Keep in mind that oak trees grow very slowly at first. Feeding the tree to encourage fast growth weakens the wood. This can lead to splits in the trunk and broken branches.
Propagating Oak Trees
For convenience, the many species of oak are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. You can tell which group an oak belongs to by taking a close look at the leaves. Red oak leaves have pointed lobes with little bristles at the tips, while the lobes on white oak leaves are rounded. Propagating oak trees is good for the environment and it’s an easy, fun project for kids. All you need is an acorn and a gallon pot filled with soil. Here are the steps for growing oak trees from acorns.
How to Grow an Oak Tree
Don’t gather the first acorns that fall. Wait until the second flush begins to fall, and then collect several handfuls. You might think you are collecting a lot more than you need, but the germination rates for acorns is low, so you need lots of extras. Check the leaves to determine whether you are collecting white oak or red oak acorns, and label the containers if you collect some of each. Visually examine your acorns and throw away any that have small holes where an insect may have bored in, as well as those that are off colored or moldy. The caps of mature acorns come off easily. Go ahead and remove them during your visual inspection.
Soak the acorns in a container of water overnight. Damaged and immature seeds float to the top, and you can scoop them off and discard them. White oak acorns are ready for planting right after soaking, but red oak acorns need a special treatment, called stratification. Place the red oak acorns in a zipper bag with moist sawdust or peat moss. You don’t want the sawdust or peat moss soaking wet, just lightly damp. Leave them for eight weeks, checking every two weeks or so to make sure they aren’t molding. Remove molded acorns and leave the bag open to allow fresh air in if you see signs of mold. Fill pots that are at least 12 inches deep with potting soil. Plant the acorns an inch deep. You can plant several acorns in each pot. Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location when the first leaves unfurl. If you only have one seedling in the pot, you can keep it indoors in a sunny window for up to three months. If you prefer to plant the acorns directly in the ground, take care to protect them from wildlife.
Oak Tree Care
Early on, oak tree saplings are in danger of being consumed by wildlife. Place cages over newly planted saplings and replace them with chicken wire fences as the sapling grows. Keep the tree protected until it is at least 5 feet tall. Keep the area surrounding young oak trees free of weeds and water the soil around the tree in the absence of rain. The tree won’t develop strong roots in dry soil.
Don’t fertilize the tree until its second year after planting. Even then, only use fertilizer if the leaves are pale, or the tree is not growing as it should. Keep in mind that oak trees grow very slowly at first. Feeding the tree to encourage fast growth weakens the wood. This can lead to splits in the trunk and broken branches.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The gray dogwood isn’t a tidy or attractive plant that you would want to plant in a well-groomed garden, but if you are planting a wildlife area or want a shrub for difficult conditions, it may be just what you need. Read on for information about this humble shrub.
Gray Dogwood Information
Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) is rangy and even a little scraggly, with suckers springing up all around it. The fall leaves are dark reddish purple, and while the color is interesting, you wouldn’t call it attractive. The white winter berries only last a short time and don’t add much to the appearance of the shrub. Although you may not want to plant it in a formal garden, it is right at home in a wildlife area or a location with poor, wet soil. As wildlife plants, gray dogwood thickets provide shelter, hiding places and nesting sites for birds and small mammals. Several species of birds eat the berries, including Eastern bluebirds, Northern cardinals, Northern flickers and downy woodpeckers. The flowers attract butterflies, and some species use them as larval host plants.
Growing Gray Dogwoods
Although you can grow it as a tree, a gray dogwood tree soon becomes a multi-stemmed shrub without constant attention in removing the suckers. Growing gray dogwood shrubs in a row provides a screen against unsightly views, strong winds, and harsh sunlight. Gray dogwood care is a snap too. The shrubs thrive in full sun or partial shade and almost any soil. They aren’t bothered by air pollution. These shrubs tolerate dry soil, so they seldom need watering, and never need fertilizer. The biggest task in caring for gray dogwood is keeping the suckers at bay. Pull them up whenever possible. If you have to cut them, cut at the source below the surface of the soil. Partially removed suckers soon return.
Is Gray Dogwood Invasive?
Any plant growing in its native range has natural controls to keep it in check, so native plants aren’t invasive. Gray dogwood is a native plant that is not considered invasive in any part of the U.S. In fact, it is recommended as an alternative to invasive shrubs such as non-native honeysuckle.
Gray dogwood can, however, become aggressive in the landscape. It produces multiple suckers that become new stems. Over time, the shrub forms a thicket unless it’s thinned from time to time.
Gray Dogwood Information
Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) is rangy and even a little scraggly, with suckers springing up all around it. The fall leaves are dark reddish purple, and while the color is interesting, you wouldn’t call it attractive. The white winter berries only last a short time and don’t add much to the appearance of the shrub. Although you may not want to plant it in a formal garden, it is right at home in a wildlife area or a location with poor, wet soil. As wildlife plants, gray dogwood thickets provide shelter, hiding places and nesting sites for birds and small mammals. Several species of birds eat the berries, including Eastern bluebirds, Northern cardinals, Northern flickers and downy woodpeckers. The flowers attract butterflies, and some species use them as larval host plants.
Growing Gray Dogwoods
Although you can grow it as a tree, a gray dogwood tree soon becomes a multi-stemmed shrub without constant attention in removing the suckers. Growing gray dogwood shrubs in a row provides a screen against unsightly views, strong winds, and harsh sunlight. Gray dogwood care is a snap too. The shrubs thrive in full sun or partial shade and almost any soil. They aren’t bothered by air pollution. These shrubs tolerate dry soil, so they seldom need watering, and never need fertilizer. The biggest task in caring for gray dogwood is keeping the suckers at bay. Pull them up whenever possible. If you have to cut them, cut at the source below the surface of the soil. Partially removed suckers soon return.
Is Gray Dogwood Invasive?
Any plant growing in its native range has natural controls to keep it in check, so native plants aren’t invasive. Gray dogwood is a native plant that is not considered invasive in any part of the U.S. In fact, it is recommended as an alternative to invasive shrubs such as non-native honeysuckle.
Gray dogwood can, however, become aggressive in the landscape. It produces multiple suckers that become new stems. Over time, the shrub forms a thicket unless it’s thinned from time to time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
If you’re looking for something different in the native plant or wildlife garden, then take a look at prairie dropseed grass. This attractive ornamental grass has much to offer in the landscape. Keep reading for more info and learn how to care for prairie dropseed grass. It may be just the thing you’re looking for.
What is Prairie Dropseed?
Prairie dropseed grass (Sporobolus heterolepis) is a North American native perennial bunch grass known for its bright green fine textured blades. Prairie dropseed plants sport airy pink and brown flowers in in late August through October. Their leaves turn an attractive orangey-rust mid-fall. Prairie dropseed plants love the sun. Their flowers have a distinct scent which is often described as smelling like cilantro, coriander or popcorn. Other prairie dropseed facts include: It grows 2-3’ x 2-3’ in size
It is drought tolerant after it is established
It is an excellent wildlife plant, as birds enjoy feasting on its seeds.
Growing Prairie Dropseed Plants
Growing prairie dropseed from seed requires patience and attention. It takes approximately 5 years to become fully established. Even though it is a drought tolerant plant, it requires regular irrigation for the first year. Care for prairie dropseed is minimal. It should be dethatched each year to remove the old, dead leaves. Make sure you plant this slow grower in full sun. Remove any weeds that compete for water and nutrients.
Prairie dropseed grass is an excellent ornamental plant and is very useful in landscape restoration projects. It is considered to be one of the showiest bunch grasses in the landscape industry. In addition to its low maintenance, the plant is basically trouble free. Now that you know a little more about prairie dropseed plants, perhaps you’ll choose to grow it as an addition in your landscape.
What is Prairie Dropseed?
Prairie dropseed grass (Sporobolus heterolepis) is a North American native perennial bunch grass known for its bright green fine textured blades. Prairie dropseed plants sport airy pink and brown flowers in in late August through October. Their leaves turn an attractive orangey-rust mid-fall. Prairie dropseed plants love the sun. Their flowers have a distinct scent which is often described as smelling like cilantro, coriander or popcorn. Other prairie dropseed facts include: It grows 2-3’ x 2-3’ in size
It is drought tolerant after it is established
It is an excellent wildlife plant, as birds enjoy feasting on its seeds.
Growing Prairie Dropseed Plants
Growing prairie dropseed from seed requires patience and attention. It takes approximately 5 years to become fully established. Even though it is a drought tolerant plant, it requires regular irrigation for the first year. Care for prairie dropseed is minimal. It should be dethatched each year to remove the old, dead leaves. Make sure you plant this slow grower in full sun. Remove any weeds that compete for water and nutrients.
Prairie dropseed grass is an excellent ornamental plant and is very useful in landscape restoration projects. It is considered to be one of the showiest bunch grasses in the landscape industry. In addition to its low maintenance, the plant is basically trouble free. Now that you know a little more about prairie dropseed plants, perhaps you’ll choose to grow it as an addition in your landscape.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
The lush growth of your flower and vegetable gardens attract wildlife to your yard. Your carefully cultivated plants are an exotic delicatessen, free for animals' eating enjoyment. Although you can take precautions to discourage the animals from eating your flowers and vegetables, you may still end up sharing some of your harvest when food is scarce for the wildlife.
Fence Them Out
A fence discourages marauding critters from decimating a garden patch. Even though a deer can leap over an 8- to 10-foot obstacle, a 6-foot-tall fence often discourages its incursions into a garden. Cyclone welded wire and black propylene deer fencing are effective barriers when used in combination with other animal-discouraging techniques. Solid fencing, such as a board or reed fence, hides a garden from view.
Also add a row of rabbit wire fencing to the bottom of your fence to prevent rabbits from squeezing through its holes. Peg the bottom of the rabbit fence to the ground or bury it several inches of it underground. Fill all low spots with large rocks or boards. Rabbits naturally dig under fences, but deer also can crawl under a fence to reach a garden's gourmet delights.
If gophers are a problem, consider lining planting holes with wire mesh baskets. The mesh prevents gophers from burrowing under flower and vegetable plants and eating the tender roots.
Scare Them Away
Deer, rabbits and other animals that eat plants are nervous creatures, always watching for potential predators. Take advantage of their skittish natures by adding items such as motion-activated sprinklers to your gardens. Also, metallic, shiny ribbons or small wind socks tied to the top of fencing randomly flutter in wind, making deer nervous enough to discourage them from leaping into the garden.
Although predator urine and other smelly solutions discourage deer and rabbits, a yapping dog is also an effective deterrent -- if it doesn't dig holes in the gardens or disturb neighbors. Cats are also efficient predators, catching gophers and other rodents that snack on plants.
Hide the Goodies
Use row covers to protect tender seedlings from both cool weather and wildlife. When the weather warms, trade the row covers for tulle or other lightweight fabrics that hide plants without blocking air circulation to them.
Avoid attracting wildlife to your gardens by removing nearby vegetation, dead grass and brush piles, which provide hiding and nesting places. Enclose and cover your compost pile. Burying scraps in it is not effective; deer dig up a compost pile to reach peelings and other vegetable scraps. Manage the insect population in lawns near your gardens by using beneficial nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Insect larvae, including beetle grubs, attract moles and skunks.
Plant Items Less Attractive to Them
Select that brighten a garden but are the last choices on deer's, rabbits' or other wildlife's menu. The less tasty or deer-resistant flowering plants that are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety, include:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), perennial in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Russian oregano (Origanum vulgare subsp. gracile), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), USDA zones 5 through 9.
'Winnifred Gilman' Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii 'Winnifred Gilman'), USDA zones 8 through 9.
Vegetable choices less attractive to animals vary with the wildlife's taste buds. Among the vegetables that deer and rabbits generally avoid are corn (Zea mays), garlic (Allium sativum), potato (Solanum tuberosum) and squash (Cucurbita spp.). While most garden vegetables are grown as annuals, garlic is a bulb plant that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Fence Them Out
A fence discourages marauding critters from decimating a garden patch. Even though a deer can leap over an 8- to 10-foot obstacle, a 6-foot-tall fence often discourages its incursions into a garden. Cyclone welded wire and black propylene deer fencing are effective barriers when used in combination with other animal-discouraging techniques. Solid fencing, such as a board or reed fence, hides a garden from view.
Also add a row of rabbit wire fencing to the bottom of your fence to prevent rabbits from squeezing through its holes. Peg the bottom of the rabbit fence to the ground or bury it several inches of it underground. Fill all low spots with large rocks or boards. Rabbits naturally dig under fences, but deer also can crawl under a fence to reach a garden's gourmet delights.
If gophers are a problem, consider lining planting holes with wire mesh baskets. The mesh prevents gophers from burrowing under flower and vegetable plants and eating the tender roots.
Scare Them Away
Deer, rabbits and other animals that eat plants are nervous creatures, always watching for potential predators. Take advantage of their skittish natures by adding items such as motion-activated sprinklers to your gardens. Also, metallic, shiny ribbons or small wind socks tied to the top of fencing randomly flutter in wind, making deer nervous enough to discourage them from leaping into the garden.
Although predator urine and other smelly solutions discourage deer and rabbits, a yapping dog is also an effective deterrent -- if it doesn't dig holes in the gardens or disturb neighbors. Cats are also efficient predators, catching gophers and other rodents that snack on plants.
Hide the Goodies
Use row covers to protect tender seedlings from both cool weather and wildlife. When the weather warms, trade the row covers for tulle or other lightweight fabrics that hide plants without blocking air circulation to them.
Avoid attracting wildlife to your gardens by removing nearby vegetation, dead grass and brush piles, which provide hiding and nesting places. Enclose and cover your compost pile. Burying scraps in it is not effective; deer dig up a compost pile to reach peelings and other vegetable scraps. Manage the insect population in lawns near your gardens by using beneficial nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Insect larvae, including beetle grubs, attract moles and skunks.
Plant Items Less Attractive to Them
Select that brighten a garden but are the last choices on deer's, rabbits' or other wildlife's menu. The less tasty or deer-resistant flowering plants that are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety, include:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), perennial in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Russian oregano (Origanum vulgare subsp. gracile), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), USDA zones 5 through 9.
'Winnifred Gilman' Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii 'Winnifred Gilman'), USDA zones 8 through 9.
Vegetable choices less attractive to animals vary with the wildlife's taste buds. Among the vegetables that deer and rabbits generally avoid are corn (Zea mays), garlic (Allium sativum), potato (Solanum tuberosum) and squash (Cucurbita spp.). While most garden vegetables are grown as annuals, garlic is a bulb plant that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9.
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粉团
2017年05月23日
After all the fun and excitement of Christmas, the time comes when you need to dispose of your Christmas tree and here’re the 9 ideas to recycle it!
1. Create a brush pile for birds and wildlife
Use your dead Christmas tree to create a brush pile, you can find twigs, leaves, and logs in your garden, the Christmas tree can be used as its base. It’ll help and redirect the small animals and birds towards during the wintry months. The dead tree will not only offer the much-needed protection from chill to the animals but also act as a source of food.
2. Create a DIY bird sanctuary
It’s a nice idea if you keep the tree at a strategic point in the garden and place some birdhouses and feeders on or in it. This way, the birds can appreciate your tree, too. You can also go a step further and decorate it, and fill bird feeders with edible seeds and hang them from the branches/boughs to attract the birds to their new home.
3. Replant it for the next Christmas
If you’ve bought a living Christmas tree with the root ball intact, it’s a good idea to replant it for the next Christmas, it might be more than 11 months from now but that only gives us all the more reasons to start early. The Gardening Know How has a good article on it, take a look!
4. Edge flowerbeds and walkways
Instead of using it for bonfire, slice up the trunk of your Christmas tree into thin discs and use them to edge walkways and flowerbeds. This is a not only a good way to use your Christmas tree but also beautiful and functional.
5. Keep your perennials warm
You can cut off the boughs from the Christmas tree and lay them around the root of the perennial plants, this mulching will protect them from cold temperature and also reduce the chances of frost heaving.
6. As pot risers
If you have a decent size Christmas tree, you can cut the trunk into pieces of different lengths and use them as pot risers or you can get creative with it and make a rolling plant stand out of it. If you’re not satisfied with the natural looks and want to protect the wood from deterioration, varnish or paint the tree stump pieces.
7. Suppressing the weeds
Instead of sawing and splitting it, you can rent a chipper and mash up the trunk into chips. During the next season, you can spread these wood chips as a mulch under your plants, this will suppress the growth of weeds. Also, remember that when decomposed, this wood chip mulch will enrich your soil.
8. Use it to stake plants
A majority of dead Christmas trees varieties are typically sturdy in nature. And you can use this to your advantage. Strip away the branches and use them to support your plants.
9. Create habitat for the fishes
If you or your neighbor has a pond or if you live near a lake, give your Christmas tree a proper send off by tossing its branches in the water. But before you do this— Remove all the needles and tie something into the middle, like a cinder block, a stone or something as heavy. During the harsh winter months, the fish can find warm refuge beneath the branches. Nonetheless, make sure that the dead tree is chemical free before throwing it overboard.
1. Create a brush pile for birds and wildlife
Use your dead Christmas tree to create a brush pile, you can find twigs, leaves, and logs in your garden, the Christmas tree can be used as its base. It’ll help and redirect the small animals and birds towards during the wintry months. The dead tree will not only offer the much-needed protection from chill to the animals but also act as a source of food.
2. Create a DIY bird sanctuary
It’s a nice idea if you keep the tree at a strategic point in the garden and place some birdhouses and feeders on or in it. This way, the birds can appreciate your tree, too. You can also go a step further and decorate it, and fill bird feeders with edible seeds and hang them from the branches/boughs to attract the birds to their new home.
3. Replant it for the next Christmas
If you’ve bought a living Christmas tree with the root ball intact, it’s a good idea to replant it for the next Christmas, it might be more than 11 months from now but that only gives us all the more reasons to start early. The Gardening Know How has a good article on it, take a look!
4. Edge flowerbeds and walkways
Instead of using it for bonfire, slice up the trunk of your Christmas tree into thin discs and use them to edge walkways and flowerbeds. This is a not only a good way to use your Christmas tree but also beautiful and functional.
5. Keep your perennials warm
You can cut off the boughs from the Christmas tree and lay them around the root of the perennial plants, this mulching will protect them from cold temperature and also reduce the chances of frost heaving.
6. As pot risers
If you have a decent size Christmas tree, you can cut the trunk into pieces of different lengths and use them as pot risers or you can get creative with it and make a rolling plant stand out of it. If you’re not satisfied with the natural looks and want to protect the wood from deterioration, varnish or paint the tree stump pieces.
7. Suppressing the weeds
Instead of sawing and splitting it, you can rent a chipper and mash up the trunk into chips. During the next season, you can spread these wood chips as a mulch under your plants, this will suppress the growth of weeds. Also, remember that when decomposed, this wood chip mulch will enrich your soil.
8. Use it to stake plants
A majority of dead Christmas trees varieties are typically sturdy in nature. And you can use this to your advantage. Strip away the branches and use them to support your plants.
9. Create habitat for the fishes
If you or your neighbor has a pond or if you live near a lake, give your Christmas tree a proper send off by tossing its branches in the water. But before you do this— Remove all the needles and tie something into the middle, like a cinder block, a stone or something as heavy. During the harsh winter months, the fish can find warm refuge beneath the branches. Nonetheless, make sure that the dead tree is chemical free before throwing it overboard.
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Carol
2017年02月20日
Attracting #wildlife into your garden can make it more lively, it will also improve the overall health of your #garden . Here are the 5 ways to do this!
Many people think that all insects and bugs are pests, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. These tiny creatures protect your garden from harmful nuisances, so it’s wise to encourage them into your space. Not only will a lively garden provide hours of entertainment, wildlife will repay your kindness by keeping your garden beautiful and free of harm.
These five simple steps will help to encourage cute critters and soulful songbirds into your garden.
1. Choose your #plants with wildlife in mind
The plants that you introduce to your garden will have a huge effect on how much wildlife you attract, so it’s best to plan ahead when creating or refreshing an outdoor space. Sweet smelling flowers like roses and honeysuckle will entice creatures to come and investigate the appealing scent. Native hedgerows will appeal to local wildlife, so do some research before you plant your parameter borders. If you have space, an oak tree not only looks beautiful but offers a safe haven for large and small animals and critters.
2. Thicken hedges and lengthen grass
Providing cover is the simplest and most effective method for attracting mini beasts; they’ll really appreciate somewhere to shelter from the elements and predators, as well as having somewhere safe to sleep. By allowing your grass to grow longer, and adding density to your hedges you’ll be proving much-needed cover for small creatures. Thick hedges also provide shelter and a safe place to nest for birds, encouraging them to make your garden their home.
Whenever you’re trimming foliage or cutting your lawn, take care and try not to disturb nesting wildlife as much as possible. Once you have created safe havens, it’s important they remain exactly that.
3. Provide food sources
Natural food shortages are a constant danger for birds, so adding a bird feeder to your garden will help local species survive. Make sure you position your feeders out of harm’s way – keep them at least two meters away from cover and be sure that pets or children can’t reach. Once birds start to feed in your garden, keep up your routine as they will become used to it and will time their visits accordingly. Any plant that grows berries will provide an additional natural source of food for our feathered friends.
Small creatures tend to prefer plants that grow in the sun rather than the shade, and anything that grows at the edge of shrubbery or borders is always popular, so bear this in mind when adding to your garden. Insects and bees love flowers and the nectar within, so aim to provide a good variety all year round. Check for the pollinator logo on plant packets to get guidance on what to buy.
4. Create lots of hiding places
A bird box is a great way to attract birds to your garden at any time of the year. By adding these small structures to your garden, you are creating safe spaces for them to shelter from the elements and to raise their young. In return, you’ll benefit from having constant companions throughout the year, and you can even fit a camera inside your box for ultimate bird watching. When fitting your bird box (or multiple bird boxes, if you are hoping to attract more than one species), position it in a quite area at least 1.5 meters above the ground, to ensure that occupants are safe and undisturbed. Be sure to keep the bird box hospitable by cleaning it out, but never disturb it when it’s occupied.
Useful insects, beetles and centipedes appreciate hiding places such as dense foliage and grass piles, which is a great excuse to put off tidying your ‘garden litter’. Delay cutting back your perennials in autumn, and during winter when plants are sparser, arrange piles of logs, stones or bark around your garden to create perfect spaces for hibernation.
5. Add a water feature
Larger garden wildlife such as frogs and toads are attracted by a pond, and if you can entice them into your garden they will repay you by eliminating slugs and snails; both of which love to feast on your plants. If you don’t have enough space for a pond, consider adding something smaller like a bird bath or water feature. Both of these options will entice beautiful birds and butterflies, as well as critters that love to feed on various types of insects. Not only will your garden be protected, you’ll have lots of colorful creatures to enjoy.
The kinds of wildlife that you’ll attract will differ depending on where you live and the space that you have available. Talk to your local garden center or wildlife association to get advice on how to create a garden that creatures will love as much as you do.
Many people think that all insects and bugs are pests, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. These tiny creatures protect your garden from harmful nuisances, so it’s wise to encourage them into your space. Not only will a lively garden provide hours of entertainment, wildlife will repay your kindness by keeping your garden beautiful and free of harm.
These five simple steps will help to encourage cute critters and soulful songbirds into your garden.
1. Choose your #plants with wildlife in mind
The plants that you introduce to your garden will have a huge effect on how much wildlife you attract, so it’s best to plan ahead when creating or refreshing an outdoor space. Sweet smelling flowers like roses and honeysuckle will entice creatures to come and investigate the appealing scent. Native hedgerows will appeal to local wildlife, so do some research before you plant your parameter borders. If you have space, an oak tree not only looks beautiful but offers a safe haven for large and small animals and critters.
2. Thicken hedges and lengthen grass
Providing cover is the simplest and most effective method for attracting mini beasts; they’ll really appreciate somewhere to shelter from the elements and predators, as well as having somewhere safe to sleep. By allowing your grass to grow longer, and adding density to your hedges you’ll be proving much-needed cover for small creatures. Thick hedges also provide shelter and a safe place to nest for birds, encouraging them to make your garden their home.
Whenever you’re trimming foliage or cutting your lawn, take care and try not to disturb nesting wildlife as much as possible. Once you have created safe havens, it’s important they remain exactly that.
3. Provide food sources
Natural food shortages are a constant danger for birds, so adding a bird feeder to your garden will help local species survive. Make sure you position your feeders out of harm’s way – keep them at least two meters away from cover and be sure that pets or children can’t reach. Once birds start to feed in your garden, keep up your routine as they will become used to it and will time their visits accordingly. Any plant that grows berries will provide an additional natural source of food for our feathered friends.
Small creatures tend to prefer plants that grow in the sun rather than the shade, and anything that grows at the edge of shrubbery or borders is always popular, so bear this in mind when adding to your garden. Insects and bees love flowers and the nectar within, so aim to provide a good variety all year round. Check for the pollinator logo on plant packets to get guidance on what to buy.
4. Create lots of hiding places
A bird box is a great way to attract birds to your garden at any time of the year. By adding these small structures to your garden, you are creating safe spaces for them to shelter from the elements and to raise their young. In return, you’ll benefit from having constant companions throughout the year, and you can even fit a camera inside your box for ultimate bird watching. When fitting your bird box (or multiple bird boxes, if you are hoping to attract more than one species), position it in a quite area at least 1.5 meters above the ground, to ensure that occupants are safe and undisturbed. Be sure to keep the bird box hospitable by cleaning it out, but never disturb it when it’s occupied.
Useful insects, beetles and centipedes appreciate hiding places such as dense foliage and grass piles, which is a great excuse to put off tidying your ‘garden litter’. Delay cutting back your perennials in autumn, and during winter when plants are sparser, arrange piles of logs, stones or bark around your garden to create perfect spaces for hibernation.
5. Add a water feature
Larger garden wildlife such as frogs and toads are attracted by a pond, and if you can entice them into your garden they will repay you by eliminating slugs and snails; both of which love to feast on your plants. If you don’t have enough space for a pond, consider adding something smaller like a bird bath or water feature. Both of these options will entice beautiful birds and butterflies, as well as critters that love to feed on various types of insects. Not only will your garden be protected, you’ll have lots of colorful creatures to enjoy.
The kinds of wildlife that you’ll attract will differ depending on where you live and the space that you have available. Talk to your local garden center or wildlife association to get advice on how to create a garden that creatures will love as much as you do.
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Abigal
2017年02月16日
Bringing birds to your garden is one of the great joys of any gardener. Aside form providing food, providing water is must in creating a wildlife friendly garden. Here is a quick and easy and cheap birdbath that looks elegant and can be made from items you already own or can easily get from your local garden center.
Supplies
Tall pot or urn, or even a piece of large pipe.
A large saucer
Silicone glue, if desired.
Several rough stones
Place your pot or urn in the desired place for your birdbath, depending on the shape of the vessel, you might wish to turn it upside down. I filled mine with rocks to give it weight and prevent it from blowing over in the wind.
Place the saucer on top of the pot, glue with silicone to keep in place if desired.
Place rough stones in saucer to give birds a foothold, then fill saucer with water.
Plant around the base of the birdbath to soften and add a natural effect. Use low growing plants. Or, tuck your bird bath into an already existing garden bed.
Hint: Place your birdbath in an open area such as a lawn. Birds prefer to be able to view the area for enemies, and will use your bath more often if they are not tucked back where a predator can hide. (Helps you to chase off those neighborhood predators as well!)
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