求助
Lucky Coyote
2018年06月24日
is this fungi or mold? and if it's mold, how do I get rid of it?
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Lucky Coyote：@Ueca thank you so much ❤ that helped a lot
Ueca：If it's either, make the environment drier, cooler, and/or sunnier. They should automatically die out.
Lucky Coyote
2018年04月29日
so this is my personal shrine to my aunt, who passed 4 years ago. it started from one tiny patch of the fungi and it spread quite well :D both the fungi and the wood it's on are from her favorite place to hike
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月09日
Texas mushroom hunters discover hundreds of mold and fungi in the state's desert, forest and semi-arid areas. Wild mushrooms grow year round. Some are edible, others are deadly. There's no substitute for an expert guide, especially if you're thinking about eating Texas' wild mushrooms. (See Reference 1, Pg. 1, 2)
Earthballs
Resembling a small ball, the earthball is one of Texas' puffball mushrooms. They are stalk-free, meaning they hold themselves to the ground with their roots. You can find these brown mushrooms growing on wood as well as on the ground. Earthball mushrooms have irregular, darker-toned patches. Their interiors resemble dark dirt.
Brain Fungi
The body of brain fungi looks like a cup. You can't miss it because its outer texture resembles a brain. This mushroom produces spores within its folds. You will find them growing on wood as well as on the ground.
Stinkhorns
Stinkhorns look like tiny horns—or they are phallic-shaped. Insects enjoy their dark and slimy exterior layer. Stickhorns smell terrible. Chances are that you will smell one before you see it. Yet in some parts of the world, stinkhorn mushrooms are considered a delicacy.
Polypores
Like the puffball mushroom, polypores don't have a stalk. They grow on wood in a cluster of wavy-edged, round caps.
Devil's Cigar
As its name suggests, the devil's cigar looks like a dark-brown cigar. When the mushroom matures and opens, its shape resembles a star. Because it looks a lot like the star that appears on Texas' flag, the Texas Legislature recognizes the devil's cigar mushroom as its official state fungus.
Earthballs
Resembling a small ball, the earthball is one of Texas' puffball mushrooms. They are stalk-free, meaning they hold themselves to the ground with their roots. You can find these brown mushrooms growing on wood as well as on the ground. Earthball mushrooms have irregular, darker-toned patches. Their interiors resemble dark dirt.
Brain Fungi
The body of brain fungi looks like a cup. You can't miss it because its outer texture resembles a brain. This mushroom produces spores within its folds. You will find them growing on wood as well as on the ground.
Stinkhorns
Stinkhorns look like tiny horns—or they are phallic-shaped. Insects enjoy their dark and slimy exterior layer. Stickhorns smell terrible. Chances are that you will smell one before you see it. Yet in some parts of the world, stinkhorn mushrooms are considered a delicacy.
Polypores
Like the puffball mushroom, polypores don't have a stalk. They grow on wood in a cluster of wavy-edged, round caps.
Devil's Cigar
As its name suggests, the devil's cigar looks like a dark-brown cigar. When the mushroom matures and opens, its shape resembles a star. Because it looks a lot like the star that appears on Texas' flag, the Texas Legislature recognizes the devil's cigar mushroom as its official state fungus.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月04日
In general, fungi have a very short life span, though it differs greatly from species to species. Some types may live as short as a day, while others survive anywhere between a week and a month. The life cycle of a fungus begins as a spore and lasts until germination.
Spore Development
Fungi begin their life as spores that are released from a fully grown fungi. After they are released, the cells of the spore divide and spread into hyphae. When hyphae formed from spores released by two different fungi meet, they may fuse together to create a single cell with two nuclei.
Mushroom
Once the two-nucleus cells, also called dikaryons, have matured, they develop into a fruiting body known as a mushroom. The nuclei of the cells in the mushroom will undergo further divisions and eventually form haploid cells--cells with a single set of chromosomes--that then divide through meiosis and create spores.
Death
Once a fungus has completed creating spores through meiosis, it effectively dies. The spores spread and the remaining stalk and hyphae do not got through another fruiting process. The remnants of the fungus then decompose in the soil.
Spore Development
Fungi begin their life as spores that are released from a fully grown fungi. After they are released, the cells of the spore divide and spread into hyphae. When hyphae formed from spores released by two different fungi meet, they may fuse together to create a single cell with two nuclei.
Mushroom
Once the two-nucleus cells, also called dikaryons, have matured, they develop into a fruiting body known as a mushroom. The nuclei of the cells in the mushroom will undergo further divisions and eventually form haploid cells--cells with a single set of chromosomes--that then divide through meiosis and create spores.
Death
Once a fungus has completed creating spores through meiosis, it effectively dies. The spores spread and the remaining stalk and hyphae do not got through another fruiting process. The remnants of the fungus then decompose in the soil.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月04日
Mushrooms are fungi that have very different growing requirements from those of green plants. Mushrooms come in many varieties, but they have similar growing needs. The easiest mushrooms for new growers to cultivate are oyster mushrooms, according to the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. White button and shiitake mushrooms are two other popular choices. Mushrooms may be grown in almost any container. With the right growing medium and conditions, you can have delicious and fresh mushrooms for your culinary needs.
Step 1
Fill your container with hardwood chips, chopped cereal straws, such as wheat, or shredded corn cobs. Mushrooms contain no chlorophyll, the substance that makes leaves green, and must obtain their nutrients from their growing medium.
Step 2
Moisten the growing medium with water, keeping it warm and consistently damp. Turn it often with a hand-held rake to make sure the mixture has adequate oxygen. The growing medium will reach temperatures of 145 degrees. This unique compost contains the nutrients mushrooms need to grow.
Step 3
Place the container with the composted growing medium on a heating pad to keep the temperature of the growing medium about 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 4
Sprinkle the mushroom spawn over the growing medium. Mushrooms don't grow by seed but by spawn, or microscopic spores. One mushroom can produce up to 16 billion spores according to Fresh Mushrooms.
Step 5
Keep your container in an area of your house that receives little to no sunlight, such as a basement or even a closet. The location should be easily accessible as the growing mushrooms need supervision.
Step 6
Lower the temperature of the soil to between 55 and 60 degrees F once the spawn has rooted. You will notice filaments spreading through the growing medium. This takes about three weeks according to Gardening Know How.
Step 7
Cover the spawn with one inch of garden soil. Lay a damp cloth over the soil and the entire container. Keep the cloth and the soil damp, but not wet. This will provide your mushrooms with the humidity and moisture they need to grow.
Step 8
Harvest your mushrooms when the cap has separated from the stem. It takes between 17 and 25 days for mushrooms to mature, according to Fresh Mushrooms.
Step 1
Fill your container with hardwood chips, chopped cereal straws, such as wheat, or shredded corn cobs. Mushrooms contain no chlorophyll, the substance that makes leaves green, and must obtain their nutrients from their growing medium.
Step 2
Moisten the growing medium with water, keeping it warm and consistently damp. Turn it often with a hand-held rake to make sure the mixture has adequate oxygen. The growing medium will reach temperatures of 145 degrees. This unique compost contains the nutrients mushrooms need to grow.
Step 3
Place the container with the composted growing medium on a heating pad to keep the temperature of the growing medium about 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 4
Sprinkle the mushroom spawn over the growing medium. Mushrooms don't grow by seed but by spawn, or microscopic spores. One mushroom can produce up to 16 billion spores according to Fresh Mushrooms.
Step 5
Keep your container in an area of your house that receives little to no sunlight, such as a basement or even a closet. The location should be easily accessible as the growing mushrooms need supervision.
Step 6
Lower the temperature of the soil to between 55 and 60 degrees F once the spawn has rooted. You will notice filaments spreading through the growing medium. This takes about three weeks according to Gardening Know How.
Step 7
Cover the spawn with one inch of garden soil. Lay a damp cloth over the soil and the entire container. Keep the cloth and the soil damp, but not wet. This will provide your mushrooms with the humidity and moisture they need to grow.
Step 8
Harvest your mushrooms when the cap has separated from the stem. It takes between 17 and 25 days for mushrooms to mature, according to Fresh Mushrooms.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月03日
Mushrooms are defined by the Merriam-Webster dictionary as," Any of various fleshy fungi of the class Basidiomycota, characteristically having an umbrella-shaped cap borne on a stalk." Wild mushrooms are nature's recyclers; they feed on fallen logs, grass trimmings and dead leaves. Types of wild mushrooms in Iowa include both edible and poisonous kinds; only mushrooms identified as safe by an authoritative source like the state of Missouri website should be consumed.
The Common Ink Cap
Search for the edible Common Ink Cap close to tree stumps in Iowa between April and September. The characteristic light gray cap measures up to 3 inches across and droops down around the stalk. Its official name comes from drawing ink produced by boiling the gills of mature inkcaps. Its unofficial name, "Tippler's Bane,' derives from the fact that it can only be safely eaten if no alcohol has been consumed within the last few days. When taken with alcoho,l it produces an exaggerated "hangover" effect. Try cooking Inkcaps by lightly sautéing in butter and seasoning with freshly-ground black pepper.
The Fairy Ring Champignon
After a couple of days of fall rain in Iowa, the small light brown caps of edible Fairy Ring Champignon mushrooms shoot up overnight and form circles on lawns, feeding on grass clippings. The appearance of Fairy Ring Champignon mushrooms is attributed to the activities of dancing fairies in folk legend, but science shows the spores or seeds spread out in a circular shape from the first mushroom, in a pattern that continues each year, sometimes for decades. To encourage rings to form, spread a light coating of sawdust in the desired location, since it's a favorite food of these mushrooms. The caps will dry nicely for future addition to soups and stews when threaded on a string and hung away from strong light in a well-ventilated location.
The Morel Mushroom
Wild Morel mushrooms are found in Iowa during April and May in damp areas, often near hardwood trees. Edible Morels grow up to 6 inches tall, with light yellow-brown and gray-brown caps closed over the stems. Great care must be taken to avoid the false Morel, with its reddish-brown color and open cap, when searching for the edible variety. Morels are great favorites with cooks, possessing a flavor described as nutty, meaty and creamy. To cook Morel mushrooms, try sautéing with butter and seasoning with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
The Oyster Mushroom
Edible Oyster mushrooms grow in fan-like layers on fallen logs, stumps and the trunks of living trees and are most common after rains during summer and fall. The caps are 2 to 8 inches wide, colors vary from white to dark beige and stalks are very short or nonexistent. They look, smell and taste like the shellfish, oysters, and can be served in a similar manner, lightly braised with seafood seasonings to accentuate that particular flavor.
The Common Ink Cap
Search for the edible Common Ink Cap close to tree stumps in Iowa between April and September. The characteristic light gray cap measures up to 3 inches across and droops down around the stalk. Its official name comes from drawing ink produced by boiling the gills of mature inkcaps. Its unofficial name, "Tippler's Bane,' derives from the fact that it can only be safely eaten if no alcohol has been consumed within the last few days. When taken with alcoho,l it produces an exaggerated "hangover" effect. Try cooking Inkcaps by lightly sautéing in butter and seasoning with freshly-ground black pepper.
The Fairy Ring Champignon
After a couple of days of fall rain in Iowa, the small light brown caps of edible Fairy Ring Champignon mushrooms shoot up overnight and form circles on lawns, feeding on grass clippings. The appearance of Fairy Ring Champignon mushrooms is attributed to the activities of dancing fairies in folk legend, but science shows the spores or seeds spread out in a circular shape from the first mushroom, in a pattern that continues each year, sometimes for decades. To encourage rings to form, spread a light coating of sawdust in the desired location, since it's a favorite food of these mushrooms. The caps will dry nicely for future addition to soups and stews when threaded on a string and hung away from strong light in a well-ventilated location.
The Morel Mushroom
Wild Morel mushrooms are found in Iowa during April and May in damp areas, often near hardwood trees. Edible Morels grow up to 6 inches tall, with light yellow-brown and gray-brown caps closed over the stems. Great care must be taken to avoid the false Morel, with its reddish-brown color and open cap, when searching for the edible variety. Morels are great favorites with cooks, possessing a flavor described as nutty, meaty and creamy. To cook Morel mushrooms, try sautéing with butter and seasoning with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
The Oyster Mushroom
Edible Oyster mushrooms grow in fan-like layers on fallen logs, stumps and the trunks of living trees and are most common after rains during summer and fall. The caps are 2 to 8 inches wide, colors vary from white to dark beige and stalks are very short or nonexistent. They look, smell and taste like the shellfish, oysters, and can be served in a similar manner, lightly braised with seafood seasonings to accentuate that particular flavor.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月02日
The forests of North America are full of delicious fungi growing on the sides of trees. They can be boiled or stir fried and go well with Western and Asian cooking. However, look-a-likes exist that closely resemble edible fungus, yet are poisonous. It is critical for fungus collectors to know which kinds of fungus are safe to eat and which to avoid.
Oyster Mushroom
During spring, summer, fall and even during warm winter periods, the oyster mushroom grows in large clumps on the sides of trees. The mushroom is around 2 to 8 inches wide and is white, tan or off-white-colored. It has white gills under its wide cap that run down a short stem to the bark of the tree. This mushroom has a few look-a-likes, but they are not poisonous, only unpleasant. Check the reference below for a sample picture of the fungus.
Sulfur Shelf
The sulfur shelf fungus is easy to spot by its bright orange top and sulfur-yellow pores under the cap. Some are peach or salmon colored instead of bright orange. This fungus is also known as chicken mushroom and chicken of the woods. The caps range in size from 2 to 12 inches wide. The reference below contains reference pictures of this fungus. The fungus grows from summer to fall on living and dead trees. There are no close look-a-likes for this fungus. However, be careful as this mushroom can cause a mild allergic reaction in some people in the form of swollen lips. This mushroom has the texture and taste of chicken when cooked.
Wood Ear Fungus
This is a famous edible fungus that also goes by the names of cloud ear mushroom and ear of Judas mushroom. The wood ear fungus is pale off-white color or black and jelly-like in texture. It grows on the sides of trees. and can be dehydrated and re-hydrated for cooking. This fungus is often an ingredient in Chinese and other Asian dishes. Photos appear in the reference for wood ear.
Oyster Mushroom
During spring, summer, fall and even during warm winter periods, the oyster mushroom grows in large clumps on the sides of trees. The mushroom is around 2 to 8 inches wide and is white, tan or off-white-colored. It has white gills under its wide cap that run down a short stem to the bark of the tree. This mushroom has a few look-a-likes, but they are not poisonous, only unpleasant. Check the reference below for a sample picture of the fungus.
Sulfur Shelf
The sulfur shelf fungus is easy to spot by its bright orange top and sulfur-yellow pores under the cap. Some are peach or salmon colored instead of bright orange. This fungus is also known as chicken mushroom and chicken of the woods. The caps range in size from 2 to 12 inches wide. The reference below contains reference pictures of this fungus. The fungus grows from summer to fall on living and dead trees. There are no close look-a-likes for this fungus. However, be careful as this mushroom can cause a mild allergic reaction in some people in the form of swollen lips. This mushroom has the texture and taste of chicken when cooked.
Wood Ear Fungus
This is a famous edible fungus that also goes by the names of cloud ear mushroom and ear of Judas mushroom. The wood ear fungus is pale off-white color or black and jelly-like in texture. It grows on the sides of trees. and can be dehydrated and re-hydrated for cooking. This fungus is often an ingredient in Chinese and other Asian dishes. Photos appear in the reference for wood ear.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月01日
Mushrooms are collectibles and mushroom hunting is a venerable pastime. The fungi grow in woods on rotting logs, in the middle of a green lawn overnight and on clumps of decomposing cow dung in pastures. For thousands of years, people have been finding and consuming mushrooms for their taste, nutritional value and sometimes for their psychotropic effects. The mushrooms that grow on cow dung cover the spectrum from common edibles to exotic hallucinogens.
Edible
About 3,000 of the known 14,000 types of mushrooms are edible and one of the most common edible mushrooms is the simple 'button" mushroom, the Agaricus bisporus. Today those mushrooms are grown as a commercial cash crop in China and farmers use compost on bamboo shelves with steam humidity to force the fungi to grow. The compost can be made of easily obtained local materials and one simple mix is a base of paddy straw mixed with cow dung. In the U.S. button mushroom farmers use composts of decomposing plant matter with horse or poultry manure. White button mushrooms are sold fresh, canned, pickled and marinated and in soups and sauces.
Inedible
Mushrooms are fungi and some of them are highly poisonous, so it is safest to consume market mushrooms from a reputable source. The Cyathus striatus is one you should photograph and leave in the field. The mushrooms are brownish to reddish-brown on the exterior and black inside, under the cap. Younger Cyathus striatus are slightly shaggy or hairy looking but the cone-shaped caps smooth out with maturity. They grow very densely in North America on organic debris, all kinds of dung including cow patties, on wood chips, sawdust and even on soil that has been fertilized with manure. Their season is July through October and they should not be eaten so, if you stumble across them on a mushroom hunt, keep searching.
Illegal
The most famous cow dung fungi are members of the Psilocybe cubensis family – so-called psychedelic mushrooms or 'shrooms. They spring up all over the world where cattle have been grazing and prefer to grow directly on cow patties, most often those that are decomposing in the field. The 'shrooms grow in warm climates and appear from February to November. They have large yellow-brown caps that lighten as they mature and when bruised they turn blue. Their spores are spread by cattle egrets, Crested Caracara birds, the wind and by the feet of humans and cattle moving around the field. Traditionally, native tribes used, and still use, hallucinogenic mushrooms in rituals and P. cubensis is the most widely cultivated and consumed of the psychedelics. The mushrooms were extremely popular in the sixties and people still hunt for them at night in cattle pastures. It is illegal to possess P. cubensis in the United States.
Edible
About 3,000 of the known 14,000 types of mushrooms are edible and one of the most common edible mushrooms is the simple 'button" mushroom, the Agaricus bisporus. Today those mushrooms are grown as a commercial cash crop in China and farmers use compost on bamboo shelves with steam humidity to force the fungi to grow. The compost can be made of easily obtained local materials and one simple mix is a base of paddy straw mixed with cow dung. In the U.S. button mushroom farmers use composts of decomposing plant matter with horse or poultry manure. White button mushrooms are sold fresh, canned, pickled and marinated and in soups and sauces.
Inedible
Mushrooms are fungi and some of them are highly poisonous, so it is safest to consume market mushrooms from a reputable source. The Cyathus striatus is one you should photograph and leave in the field. The mushrooms are brownish to reddish-brown on the exterior and black inside, under the cap. Younger Cyathus striatus are slightly shaggy or hairy looking but the cone-shaped caps smooth out with maturity. They grow very densely in North America on organic debris, all kinds of dung including cow patties, on wood chips, sawdust and even on soil that has been fertilized with manure. Their season is July through October and they should not be eaten so, if you stumble across them on a mushroom hunt, keep searching.
Illegal
The most famous cow dung fungi are members of the Psilocybe cubensis family – so-called psychedelic mushrooms or 'shrooms. They spring up all over the world where cattle have been grazing and prefer to grow directly on cow patties, most often those that are decomposing in the field. The 'shrooms grow in warm climates and appear from February to November. They have large yellow-brown caps that lighten as they mature and when bruised they turn blue. Their spores are spread by cattle egrets, Crested Caracara birds, the wind and by the feet of humans and cattle moving around the field. Traditionally, native tribes used, and still use, hallucinogenic mushrooms in rituals and P. cubensis is the most widely cultivated and consumed of the psychedelics. The mushrooms were extremely popular in the sixties and people still hunt for them at night in cattle pastures. It is illegal to possess P. cubensis in the United States.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月30日
Pine trees and their fallen needles create an acidic soil environment hostile to many plants and fungi. There are, however, several types of mushrooms that not only tolerate the soil beneath pine trees but thrive in such a location. Mushrooms associated with pine trees include edibles, such as the prized king bolete and matsutake mushrooms, as well as poisonous mushrooms, like the death cap.
King Bolete
The king bolete, or Boletus edulis, is a European bolete mushroom associated with spruce and pine trees. This very large mushroom has a swollen, meaty stem and a smooth, brown cap with a tacky surface. According to Michael Kuo, author of "Morels" and "100 Edible Mushrooms," scientists debate whether North American examples of the king bolete are actually the same as the species found in Europe. However, regardless of classification, this pine-loving mushroom is prized for its nutty, slightly bitter flavor and works well in soups.
American Matsutake
A relative of the prized Japanese matsutake mushroom, American matsutake, or Tricholoma magnivelare, is a white to brownish mushroom with a partial veil on the stem. It has a distinctive spicy odor and a complex flavor. This mushroom is often found under jack pine trees in the American northeast.
Hedgehog Mushroom
Also called by its scientific name, Hydnum repandum, the hedgehog mushroom is an orange to tan fungus that grows near conifers. Its name comes from the distinctive spines on the underside of its cap. Except for these spines, it closely resembles the also-edible chanterelle mushroom. Hedgehog mushrooms taste similar to chantarelles, but are usually milder. Old specimens may have a bitter flavor.
Death Cap
This large, white toadstool is one of the most dangerous mushrooms in North America, not only for its poisonous nature but for its resemblance to edible field mushrooms. This fungus is mostly associated with European species of oak, but does grow under several types of pine tree, as well. Death cap mushrooms have a distinctive sack-like volva around their bases and a white ring under the cap.
King Bolete
The king bolete, or Boletus edulis, is a European bolete mushroom associated with spruce and pine trees. This very large mushroom has a swollen, meaty stem and a smooth, brown cap with a tacky surface. According to Michael Kuo, author of "Morels" and "100 Edible Mushrooms," scientists debate whether North American examples of the king bolete are actually the same as the species found in Europe. However, regardless of classification, this pine-loving mushroom is prized for its nutty, slightly bitter flavor and works well in soups.
American Matsutake
A relative of the prized Japanese matsutake mushroom, American matsutake, or Tricholoma magnivelare, is a white to brownish mushroom with a partial veil on the stem. It has a distinctive spicy odor and a complex flavor. This mushroom is often found under jack pine trees in the American northeast.
Hedgehog Mushroom
Also called by its scientific name, Hydnum repandum, the hedgehog mushroom is an orange to tan fungus that grows near conifers. Its name comes from the distinctive spines on the underside of its cap. Except for these spines, it closely resembles the also-edible chanterelle mushroom. Hedgehog mushrooms taste similar to chantarelles, but are usually milder. Old specimens may have a bitter flavor.
Death Cap
This large, white toadstool is one of the most dangerous mushrooms in North America, not only for its poisonous nature but for its resemblance to edible field mushrooms. This fungus is mostly associated with European species of oak, but does grow under several types of pine tree, as well. Death cap mushrooms have a distinctive sack-like volva around their bases and a white ring under the cap.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月28日
Considered by some to be a delicacy surpassed only by truffles, morel mushrooms are one of the most highly coveted species of wild fungi. Because of their preference for growing in moist, but not wet areas, morel mushrooms grow predominantly in the wild in shaded areas of south facing slopes. As morels are one of the most easily recognizable of all wild mushroom species, you can easily tell if it's a morel mushroom by looking for a few unique characteristics.
Step 1
Look for an elongated, cone shaped cap. Morels have a cap that flares out from the top of the stem and almost immediately begins to taper to a rounded top.
Step 2
Examine the distinctively identifying irregular honeycomb, latticework structure covering the entire cap of the mushroom. The raised lattice-like ridges are highly discernable with deep, clearly defined cavities between ridges. This honeycomb characteristic alone is enough to positively identify a morel mushroom, as no other species of wild mushroom has this trait.
Step 3
Cut the morel lengthwise, down the middle of the stem and cap, with a knife. Both the stem and cap on morels are completely hollow.
Step 4
Inspect the cut stem of the mushroom. Neophyte mushroom hunters sometimes mistake "false morels" for actual morels. However, confusion is easily eliminated. False morels have a smooth, irregular shaped, wavy cap somewhat resembling brain matter. Additionally, the stem of false morels is solid and continues all the way to the top of the mushroom's cap. The stem of a true morel ends where the stem joins the base of its cap.
Step 1
Look for an elongated, cone shaped cap. Morels have a cap that flares out from the top of the stem and almost immediately begins to taper to a rounded top.
Step 2
Examine the distinctively identifying irregular honeycomb, latticework structure covering the entire cap of the mushroom. The raised lattice-like ridges are highly discernable with deep, clearly defined cavities between ridges. This honeycomb characteristic alone is enough to positively identify a morel mushroom, as no other species of wild mushroom has this trait.
Step 3
Cut the morel lengthwise, down the middle of the stem and cap, with a knife. Both the stem and cap on morels are completely hollow.
Step 4
Inspect the cut stem of the mushroom. Neophyte mushroom hunters sometimes mistake "false morels" for actual morels. However, confusion is easily eliminated. False morels have a smooth, irregular shaped, wavy cap somewhat resembling brain matter. Additionally, the stem of false morels is solid and continues all the way to the top of the mushroom's cap. The stem of a true morel ends where the stem joins the base of its cap.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月27日
Considered by some to be a delicacy surpassed only by truffles, morel mushrooms are one of the most highly coveted species of wild fungi. Because of their preference for growing in moist, but not wet areas, morel mushrooms grow predominantly in the wild in shaded areas of south facing slopes. As morels are one of the most easily recognizable of all wild mushroom species, you can easily tell if it's a morel mushroom by looking for a few unique characteristics.
Step 1
Look for an elongated, cone shaped cap. Morels have a cap that flares out from the top of the stem and almost immediately begins to taper to a rounded top.
Step 2
Examine the distinctively identifying irregular honeycomb, latticework structure covering the entire cap of the mushroom. The raised lattice-like ridges are highly discernable with deep, clearly defined cavities between ridges. This honeycomb characteristic alone is enough to positively identify a morel mushroom, as no other species of wild mushroom has this trait.
Step 3
Cut the morel lengthwise, down the middle of the stem and cap, with a knife. Both the stem and cap on morels are completely hollow.
Step 4
Inspect the cut stem of the mushroom. Neophyte mushroom hunters sometimes mistake "false morels" for actual morels. However, confusion is easily eliminated. False morels have a smooth, irregular shaped, wavy cap somewhat resembling brain matter. Additionally, the stem of false morels is solid and continues all the way to the top of the mushroom's cap. The stem of a true morel ends where the stem joins the base of its cap.
Step 1
Look for an elongated, cone shaped cap. Morels have a cap that flares out from the top of the stem and almost immediately begins to taper to a rounded top.
Step 2
Examine the distinctively identifying irregular honeycomb, latticework structure covering the entire cap of the mushroom. The raised lattice-like ridges are highly discernable with deep, clearly defined cavities between ridges. This honeycomb characteristic alone is enough to positively identify a morel mushroom, as no other species of wild mushroom has this trait.
Step 3
Cut the morel lengthwise, down the middle of the stem and cap, with a knife. Both the stem and cap on morels are completely hollow.
Step 4
Inspect the cut stem of the mushroom. Neophyte mushroom hunters sometimes mistake "false morels" for actual morels. However, confusion is easily eliminated. False morels have a smooth, irregular shaped, wavy cap somewhat resembling brain matter. Additionally, the stem of false morels is solid and continues all the way to the top of the mushroom's cap. The stem of a true morel ends where the stem joins the base of its cap.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月26日
Mushrooms go through three states to become the fungi you enjoy in various dishes. The first stage is the spawning stage, the second stage is the vegetative growth state and the third is the fruiting stage. The production of spawn is difficult and best left to professional mushroom growers. Obtain your spawn from them after you've prepared your own mushroom growing box at home and seasoned the compost properly. If you do things right, in about eight weeks, you should see a crop of mushrooms in the final fruiting stage.
Step 1
Put on a pair of rubber gloves before you begin. You want a mushroom-growing environment that is as sterile as possible to keep bacteria and pests from making their homes in your mushroom growing box.
Step 2
Cut a piece from a roll of plastic sheeting to fit inside a 20-qt. plastic storage container. Pull the plastic tight inside the container, cover the sides and secure the plastic over the rim of the container with box tape.
Step 3
Fill the container 2/3 full with organic compost. Measure the temperature of the compost. The temperature of the compost needs to be below 86 degree F to add the spawn.
Step 4
Add the mushroom spawn and combine it evenly with the compost using your hands. If you decide to use a small shovel to add the spawn, you must sterilize the instrument first with hydrogen peroxide.
Step 5
Place the container in a dark and moderately warm place where you can monitor the temperature and humidity level. Indirect light on the mushroom box is alright.
Step 6
Check the box often for three to four days for mycelia growth. You will see a fibrous substance that is either gray or white making its way through the top of the compost. Wait about 10 days to allow the spawn to go through all of the compost before you apply the casing, or sphagnum moss.
Step 7
Remove the sphagnum moss from its sterile packaging and moisten it with water. Cover the mycelia an even layer, 8 or 9 inches thick, with the sphagnum moss. This casing encourages the mycelia, or vegetative state, to convert to the fruiting state.
Step 8
If you smell ammonia in the compost, do not add the mushroom spawn, as the mushrooms are not likely to grow in this medium. When ammonia is present, the compost is not complete. After you harvest the first growth of mushrooms, additional crops will grow for up to a month.
Step 1
Put on a pair of rubber gloves before you begin. You want a mushroom-growing environment that is as sterile as possible to keep bacteria and pests from making their homes in your mushroom growing box.
Step 2
Cut a piece from a roll of plastic sheeting to fit inside a 20-qt. plastic storage container. Pull the plastic tight inside the container, cover the sides and secure the plastic over the rim of the container with box tape.
Step 3
Fill the container 2/3 full with organic compost. Measure the temperature of the compost. The temperature of the compost needs to be below 86 degree F to add the spawn.
Step 4
Add the mushroom spawn and combine it evenly with the compost using your hands. If you decide to use a small shovel to add the spawn, you must sterilize the instrument first with hydrogen peroxide.
Step 5
Place the container in a dark and moderately warm place where you can monitor the temperature and humidity level. Indirect light on the mushroom box is alright.
Step 6
Check the box often for three to four days for mycelia growth. You will see a fibrous substance that is either gray or white making its way through the top of the compost. Wait about 10 days to allow the spawn to go through all of the compost before you apply the casing, or sphagnum moss.
Step 7
Remove the sphagnum moss from its sterile packaging and moisten it with water. Cover the mycelia an even layer, 8 or 9 inches thick, with the sphagnum moss. This casing encourages the mycelia, or vegetative state, to convert to the fruiting state.
Step 8
If you smell ammonia in the compost, do not add the mushroom spawn, as the mushrooms are not likely to grow in this medium. When ammonia is present, the compost is not complete. After you harvest the first growth of mushrooms, additional crops will grow for up to a month.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Worldwide, Nectria fungi cause several common canker and dieback diseases, especially in hardwood trees. Nectria canker, which is caused by the fungus, Nectria galligena, may occur on over 60 species of trees and shrubs including apple, ash, birch, dogwood, elm, sweet gum, holly, maple, pear and walnut. A similar disease infects members of the magnolia family. Nectria canker is usually not a fatal disease, but it can cause considerable damage as the cankered area is weakened and susceptible to breakage. It may also adversely affect the appearance of the affected plant. This disease is important commercially as it reduces the quality and quantity of forest products.
Another member of the Nectria genus, Nectria cinnabarina, causes the disease Nectria dieback. Also known as coral spot Nectria canker or Nectria canker, this disease occurs on many plant species, including apple, ash, barberry, birch, boxwood, crabapple, elm, hickory, honey locust, linden, maple, pear, rose and Japanese zelkova. Nectria cinnabarina usually grows as a saprophyte on dead wood, but if a plant is wounded or otherwise stressed, the fungus becomes an opportunistic weak parasite, producing cankers and causing dieback of twigs and branches. Maples are especially affected by this disease as are recently wounded or severely pruned trees and shrubs, urban ornamentals and new transplants of other species.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Although it is most common in spring and fall, the Nectria fungus can infect plants throughout the year as long as there is sufficient moisture and the temperature is above freezing. Plants that are stressed by cold, drought, mechanical injuries or other disease are especially susceptible. Infections may be worse in autumn and winter when the host plant is dormant and wound recovery is weaker than in the growing season.
The first symptom of a Nectria infection is a depressed discolored area of bark near wounds or at the base of dead twigs or branches. These cankers are usually not noticed until other symptoms appear.
The first easily visible signs of Nectria canker are small creamy white or red to reddish orange fruiting structures and the development of callus tissue. This callus tissue is produced as the host plant attempts to isolate the fungus. If the callus does not isolate the infection, the fungus will continue to grow into healthy wood and the plant will respond by growing another ridge of callus tissue. This alternation of fungal growth and callus ridge, which may occur for many years, results in a rounded or elongated target-like shape. The bark of older ridges may decay and weather away exposing the ridges of wood underneath. This disease grows slowly and larger stems are rarely girdled, although multiple lesions may grow together and kill a branch or the entire plant. Plants that are stressed are most severely affected by the disease. This fungus may also affect apple fruit causing it to rot during storage.
The first obvious sign of Nectria dieback may not occur until spring when the plant begins to grow. Affected twigs, branches, or even entire plants will not produce leaves or may wilt suddenly. Larger branches or small trees may be girdled and killed. The fungus produces reproductive structures that vary in color from creamy, coral pink, pink-orange, light purplish red or orange-red and that darken as they mature.
Life Cycle
Nectria galligena overwinters in the callus tissue growing slowly while its host is dormant. During moist periods, creamy white cushion-like fruiting structures will develop. These are followed by a second type of reproductive structure, which is red to reddish orange, pin-head sized and lemon-shaped, in autumn through spring. During rain or other moist weather, spores are released and dispersed by wind or water infecting susceptible plants through natural openings such as leaf scars or through wounds from improper pruning, sunscald, storm damage, frost cracks or other mechanical damage. As the fungus grows, it kills bark, cambium, and the outermost sapwood.
The life cycle of the Nectria dieback fungus is similar to that of Nectria canker. Creamy to coral pink to pink-orange or light purplish red spore-producing structures develop in spring or early summer. These will age to tan, brown, or nearly black. Orange-red fruiting structures, which mature to dark reddish brown and may persist through winter, are produced in summer and autumn. Both structures release spores that are dispersed by water and can invade susceptible tissue producing cankers and dieback.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Proper selection. Choose trees and shrubs that are well adapted to the climate of the area to minimize infection due to freeze damage and other environmental stresses.
2. Maintain plant vigor. Keep plants healthy and growing vigorously by using good cultural techniques. These include choosing the appropriate planting site, watering during dry periods, using mulch around the base of the tree or shrub and fertilizing and pruning properly. Pruning is best done in late winter. Avoid pruning in spring when higher moisture can increase risk of infection or in late summer and autumn, which can delay the plant’s natural cold hardiness response. Minimize any wounding due to root pruning, transplanting or lawnmowers to reduce infection sites.
3. Prune. Prune out branch cankers during dry periods when conditions are unfavorable for infection. Disinfect pruning tools in a 1-part bleach to 9-parts water solution between each cut.
Another member of the Nectria genus, Nectria cinnabarina, causes the disease Nectria dieback. Also known as coral spot Nectria canker or Nectria canker, this disease occurs on many plant species, including apple, ash, barberry, birch, boxwood, crabapple, elm, hickory, honey locust, linden, maple, pear, rose and Japanese zelkova. Nectria cinnabarina usually grows as a saprophyte on dead wood, but if a plant is wounded or otherwise stressed, the fungus becomes an opportunistic weak parasite, producing cankers and causing dieback of twigs and branches. Maples are especially affected by this disease as are recently wounded or severely pruned trees and shrubs, urban ornamentals and new transplants of other species.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Although it is most common in spring and fall, the Nectria fungus can infect plants throughout the year as long as there is sufficient moisture and the temperature is above freezing. Plants that are stressed by cold, drought, mechanical injuries or other disease are especially susceptible. Infections may be worse in autumn and winter when the host plant is dormant and wound recovery is weaker than in the growing season.
The first symptom of a Nectria infection is a depressed discolored area of bark near wounds or at the base of dead twigs or branches. These cankers are usually not noticed until other symptoms appear.
The first easily visible signs of Nectria canker are small creamy white or red to reddish orange fruiting structures and the development of callus tissue. This callus tissue is produced as the host plant attempts to isolate the fungus. If the callus does not isolate the infection, the fungus will continue to grow into healthy wood and the plant will respond by growing another ridge of callus tissue. This alternation of fungal growth and callus ridge, which may occur for many years, results in a rounded or elongated target-like shape. The bark of older ridges may decay and weather away exposing the ridges of wood underneath. This disease grows slowly and larger stems are rarely girdled, although multiple lesions may grow together and kill a branch or the entire plant. Plants that are stressed are most severely affected by the disease. This fungus may also affect apple fruit causing it to rot during storage.
The first obvious sign of Nectria dieback may not occur until spring when the plant begins to grow. Affected twigs, branches, or even entire plants will not produce leaves or may wilt suddenly. Larger branches or small trees may be girdled and killed. The fungus produces reproductive structures that vary in color from creamy, coral pink, pink-orange, light purplish red or orange-red and that darken as they mature.
Life Cycle
Nectria galligena overwinters in the callus tissue growing slowly while its host is dormant. During moist periods, creamy white cushion-like fruiting structures will develop. These are followed by a second type of reproductive structure, which is red to reddish orange, pin-head sized and lemon-shaped, in autumn through spring. During rain or other moist weather, spores are released and dispersed by wind or water infecting susceptible plants through natural openings such as leaf scars or through wounds from improper pruning, sunscald, storm damage, frost cracks or other mechanical damage. As the fungus grows, it kills bark, cambium, and the outermost sapwood.
The life cycle of the Nectria dieback fungus is similar to that of Nectria canker. Creamy to coral pink to pink-orange or light purplish red spore-producing structures develop in spring or early summer. These will age to tan, brown, or nearly black. Orange-red fruiting structures, which mature to dark reddish brown and may persist through winter, are produced in summer and autumn. Both structures release spores that are dispersed by water and can invade susceptible tissue producing cankers and dieback.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Proper selection. Choose trees and shrubs that are well adapted to the climate of the area to minimize infection due to freeze damage and other environmental stresses.
2. Maintain plant vigor. Keep plants healthy and growing vigorously by using good cultural techniques. These include choosing the appropriate planting site, watering during dry periods, using mulch around the base of the tree or shrub and fertilizing and pruning properly. Pruning is best done in late winter. Avoid pruning in spring when higher moisture can increase risk of infection or in late summer and autumn, which can delay the plant’s natural cold hardiness response. Minimize any wounding due to root pruning, transplanting or lawnmowers to reduce infection sites.
3. Prune. Prune out branch cankers during dry periods when conditions are unfavorable for infection. Disinfect pruning tools in a 1-part bleach to 9-parts water solution between each cut.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Leaf spot is a common descriptive term applied to a number of diseases affecting the foliage of ornamentals and shade trees. The majority of leaf spots are caused by fungi, but some are caused by bacteria. Some insects also cause damage that appears like a leaf spot disease. Leaf spots on trees are very common and generally do not require spraying. Leaf spot may result in some defoliation of a plant. An established plant can tolerate almost complete defoliation if it happens late in the season or not every year. Small or newly planted trees that become defoliated are more at risk of suffering damage until they become established.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The chief symptom of a leaf spot disease is spots on foliage. The spots will vary in size and color depending on the plant affected, the specific organism involved, and the stage of development. Spots are most often brownish, but may be tan or black. Concentric rings or dark margins are often present. Fungal bodies may appear as black dots in the spots, either in rings or in a central cluster. Over time, the spots may combine or enlarge to form blotches. Spots or blotches that are angular are generally referred to as anthracnose (see entry on “Anthracnose of Trees”) Leaves may yellow and drop prematurely.
Life Cycle
The organisms that cause leaf spots survive in fallen infected leaves and twigs. Some may remain in dead twigs on the tree. Most damage occurs in spring. During wet weather, spores may splash or be windblown onto newly emerging tender leaves where they germinate in the moisture and infect the leaf. Overhead watering can also provide prolonged wet periods that are ideal for spreading leaf spot diseases.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the disease. Most trees tolerate leaf spots with little or no apparent damage. A tree affected early in the year will re-leaf and the new leaves may not be affected. Only if defoliation occurs three or more years in a row will most established plants be adversely affected.
2. Remove infected leaves and dead twigs. Raking up and disposing of infected leaves as they drop and pruning out dead twigs can help control the disease by removing spores that can reinfect the new leaves. This is not a cure but may help limit infection by reducing the total amount of inoculum.
3. Keep foliage dry. Avoid overhead watering. Use soaker hoses or water early in the day so the foliage can dry off before night. Watering can also spread the disease by splashing. Pruning plants to allow for good air circulation and reducing crowding will also help keep the foliage dry.
4. Keep plants healthy. Since most plants can tolerate some defoliation, keep them in good health so they can rebound quickly. Avoid over fertilizing by testing the soil first. Abundant, young, tender growth is very susceptible to attack by disease and insects. Overuse of nitrogen can cause an abundance of succulent growth.
5. Use fungicides if needed. In rare cases of severe infection and where the size and value of plants make it practicable, applications of fungicides may be helpful. Sprays will not cure infected leaves. Therefore, once the damage is noticed, spraying may have limited value. Spraying generally needs to be started as buds break in the spring and repeated at 10–14 day intervals. Recommendations will vary by disease and fungicide used. Have the disease identified before purchasing a control product.
6. Replace the plant. Though a drastic measure, many gardeners find it less bother and more rewarding to replace a plant that is continually plagued with leaf spot diseases. Either replace with a different kind of plant or a variety that is more resistant or tolerant of disease. A nursery can help you in your selection.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The chief symptom of a leaf spot disease is spots on foliage. The spots will vary in size and color depending on the plant affected, the specific organism involved, and the stage of development. Spots are most often brownish, but may be tan or black. Concentric rings or dark margins are often present. Fungal bodies may appear as black dots in the spots, either in rings or in a central cluster. Over time, the spots may combine or enlarge to form blotches. Spots or blotches that are angular are generally referred to as anthracnose (see entry on “Anthracnose of Trees”) Leaves may yellow and drop prematurely.
Life Cycle
The organisms that cause leaf spots survive in fallen infected leaves and twigs. Some may remain in dead twigs on the tree. Most damage occurs in spring. During wet weather, spores may splash or be windblown onto newly emerging tender leaves where they germinate in the moisture and infect the leaf. Overhead watering can also provide prolonged wet periods that are ideal for spreading leaf spot diseases.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the disease. Most trees tolerate leaf spots with little or no apparent damage. A tree affected early in the year will re-leaf and the new leaves may not be affected. Only if defoliation occurs three or more years in a row will most established plants be adversely affected.
2. Remove infected leaves and dead twigs. Raking up and disposing of infected leaves as they drop and pruning out dead twigs can help control the disease by removing spores that can reinfect the new leaves. This is not a cure but may help limit infection by reducing the total amount of inoculum.
3. Keep foliage dry. Avoid overhead watering. Use soaker hoses or water early in the day so the foliage can dry off before night. Watering can also spread the disease by splashing. Pruning plants to allow for good air circulation and reducing crowding will also help keep the foliage dry.
4. Keep plants healthy. Since most plants can tolerate some defoliation, keep them in good health so they can rebound quickly. Avoid over fertilizing by testing the soil first. Abundant, young, tender growth is very susceptible to attack by disease and insects. Overuse of nitrogen can cause an abundance of succulent growth.
5. Use fungicides if needed. In rare cases of severe infection and where the size and value of plants make it practicable, applications of fungicides may be helpful. Sprays will not cure infected leaves. Therefore, once the damage is noticed, spraying may have limited value. Spraying generally needs to be started as buds break in the spring and repeated at 10–14 day intervals. Recommendations will vary by disease and fungicide used. Have the disease identified before purchasing a control product.
6. Replace the plant. Though a drastic measure, many gardeners find it less bother and more rewarding to replace a plant that is continually plagued with leaf spot diseases. Either replace with a different kind of plant or a variety that is more resistant or tolerant of disease. A nursery can help you in your selection.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Sclerotia of southern blight (resembling mustard seeds) at the crown of Japanese anemone (Anemone)
Crown rot, sometimes called southern blight or southern stem rot, is caused by several soil-borne fungi. It affects herbaceous plants and some woody plants but is most commonly found on ajuga, anemone, campanula, chrysanthemum, delphinium, hosta, hydrangea, iris, narcissus, phlox, rudbeckia, scabiosa, sedum, and tulip. The problem generally requires removal of the diseased plant.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Crown rot causes deterioration and rotting of the tissues at the crown of the plant causing the leaves to turn yellow, collapse, and die. When the temperature exceeds 70 degrees F, infected plants develop discolored, water-soaked stem lesions near the soil line. During periods of high humidity, coarse cottony webbing (mycelium) develops and fans out over the stem base and surrounding soil. Sclerotia, which resemble mustard seeds and vary from white to reddish tan to light brown in color, develop at the base of the plant. Enough sclerotia may form to create a crust on the soil.
Life Cycle
The fungi which cause crown rot (Pellicularia rolfsii, Sclerotium delphinii, and Sclerotium rolfsii) survive in the soil and are spread by flowing water, transported or contaminated soil, transplants, and tools. Conditions of 86–95 degrees F for several days with intermittent rains are conducive for fungal development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants as soon as they are noticed. Plants can be buried, but do NOT place them in your compost pile.
2. Excavate surrounding soil. Dig out and replace the soil to a depth of 8 inches and 6 inches beyond the diseased area.
3. Solarize the soil. If you do not remove the soil and the area receives at least two to three hours of direct sun, solarize it. Cover the area with clear plastic and leave it for two to three months in the heat of the summer.
4. Provide better drainage. Increasing the organic content of the soil and improving drainage will make the environment less desirable to the fungus.
5. Sterilize all tools. Clean all tools used in digging with a solution of 1–part bleach to 9–parts water to disinfect the tools and reduce spreading the disease to other locations in your garden.
6. Try fungicides. Pesticides registered for control of crown rot include mancozeb and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336).
Crown rot, sometimes called southern blight or southern stem rot, is caused by several soil-borne fungi. It affects herbaceous plants and some woody plants but is most commonly found on ajuga, anemone, campanula, chrysanthemum, delphinium, hosta, hydrangea, iris, narcissus, phlox, rudbeckia, scabiosa, sedum, and tulip. The problem generally requires removal of the diseased plant.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Crown rot causes deterioration and rotting of the tissues at the crown of the plant causing the leaves to turn yellow, collapse, and die. When the temperature exceeds 70 degrees F, infected plants develop discolored, water-soaked stem lesions near the soil line. During periods of high humidity, coarse cottony webbing (mycelium) develops and fans out over the stem base and surrounding soil. Sclerotia, which resemble mustard seeds and vary from white to reddish tan to light brown in color, develop at the base of the plant. Enough sclerotia may form to create a crust on the soil.
Life Cycle
The fungi which cause crown rot (Pellicularia rolfsii, Sclerotium delphinii, and Sclerotium rolfsii) survive in the soil and are spread by flowing water, transported or contaminated soil, transplants, and tools. Conditions of 86–95 degrees F for several days with intermittent rains are conducive for fungal development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants as soon as they are noticed. Plants can be buried, but do NOT place them in your compost pile.
2. Excavate surrounding soil. Dig out and replace the soil to a depth of 8 inches and 6 inches beyond the diseased area.
3. Solarize the soil. If you do not remove the soil and the area receives at least two to three hours of direct sun, solarize it. Cover the area with clear plastic and leave it for two to three months in the heat of the summer.
4. Provide better drainage. Increasing the organic content of the soil and improving drainage will make the environment less desirable to the fungus.
5. Sterilize all tools. Clean all tools used in digging with a solution of 1–part bleach to 9–parts water to disinfect the tools and reduce spreading the disease to other locations in your garden.
6. Try fungicides. Pesticides registered for control of crown rot include mancozeb and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336).
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