文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Fairy rings are caused by a diverse family of soil-inhabiting fungi called basidiomycetes. They typically appear as dark green circles in the lawn ranging in size from a few inches to 200 feet or more in diameter. Lush rings of turf are formed by the release of nutrients, in particular nitrogen, from the activity of the fungus living on organic matter in the soil. A circle of mushrooms usually develops around the edge of the infected area.
Fairy rings grow outward at the rate of 6 to 24 inches annually depending on grass, soil and weather conditions. They are most common on sandy soils that are low in water and fertility. Thick thatch layers also contribute to this problem.
Besides being unsightly, fairy rings can cause serious damage to lawns. Often the disease will produce a thick fungal mat that prevents water from reaching the grass roots below. Once the soil becomes dry it is very difficult to wet and the grass roots eventually die. The fungus may also deplete soil nutrients and, in some cases, will release a toxic by-product that can directly kill the turf within a ring.
Note: The name “fairy ring” comes from an old folk-tale. People once believed that the mushrooms appeared where fairies had danced the night before.
Treatment
Recommended products labeled for use against this fungal problem include:
Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Use 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and thoroughly soak the problem area, repeat as needed. One pint diluted treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this turfgrass disease.
Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
Keep lawns well watered.
Encourage beneficial soil microbes by top dressing with a humus builder such as well aged manure or finished compost.
Once the disease appears it is very difficult to eliminate — there is NO natural control.
Homeowners will often mask the problem, using fertilizers rich in nitrogen, rather than eradicate it.
Mushrooms can be removed by regular mowing or raking.
Most fungicides have NOT proven to be effective.
Your mantra should be; fertilize, water, aerate and mow.
Fairy rings grow outward at the rate of 6 to 24 inches annually depending on grass, soil and weather conditions. They are most common on sandy soils that are low in water and fertility. Thick thatch layers also contribute to this problem.
Besides being unsightly, fairy rings can cause serious damage to lawns. Often the disease will produce a thick fungal mat that prevents water from reaching the grass roots below. Once the soil becomes dry it is very difficult to wet and the grass roots eventually die. The fungus may also deplete soil nutrients and, in some cases, will release a toxic by-product that can directly kill the turf within a ring.
Note: The name “fairy ring” comes from an old folk-tale. People once believed that the mushrooms appeared where fairies had danced the night before.
Treatment
Recommended products labeled for use against this fungal problem include:
Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Use 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and thoroughly soak the problem area, repeat as needed. One pint diluted treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this turfgrass disease.
Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
Keep lawns well watered.
Encourage beneficial soil microbes by top dressing with a humus builder such as well aged manure or finished compost.
Once the disease appears it is very difficult to eliminate — there is NO natural control.
Homeowners will often mask the problem, using fertilizers rich in nitrogen, rather than eradicate it.
Mushrooms can be removed by regular mowing or raking.
Most fungicides have NOT proven to be effective.
Your mantra should be; fertilize, water, aerate and mow.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on many plants and easily recognized, powdery mildew is a fungal disease found throughout the United States. It is caused by a variety of closely related fungal species, each with a limited host range. (The fungi attacking your roses are unlikely to spread to your lilacs). Low soil moisture combined with high humidity levels at the plant surface favors this disease.
Symptoms usually appear later in the growing season on outdoor plants. Powdery mildew starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause leaves to curl, exposing the lower leaf surface. Infected leaves become covered with a white to gray powdery growth, usually on the upper surface; unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and may never open. Leaves of severely infected plants turn brown and drop. The disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature leaves are usually not affected.
Fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and other plant debris. Wind, water and insects transmit the spores to other nearby plants. Zucchini, beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, roses and zinnia are especially susceptible.
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars in sunny locations whenever possible.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Remove diseased foliage from the plant and clean up fallen debris on the ground.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Wash foliage occasionally to disrupt the daily spore-releasing cycle. Neem oil and PM Wash, used on a 7 day schedule, will prevent fungal attack on plants grown indoors.
Water in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses will help keep the foliage dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Destroy all plant debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following approved organic fungicides:
Apply sulfur or copper-based fungicides to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat at 7-10 day intervals up to the day of harvest.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. Monterey® BI-CARB is a similar product containing micro-encapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. Mix 4 tsps in 2 gallons of water to thoroughly cover foliage.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
SNS 244 and Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide are made from 100% pure, food-grade ingredients that work fast to kill existing plant diseases and prevent new fungal problems from starting.
Indoor growers may want to consider using a Sulfur Burner/ Vaporizer which turns sulfur prills into a fine dust and changes the pH of leaf surfaces. Fungal spores and mold can’t get established on this plant coating. As an added benefit, studies have shown that this dust will eliminate spider mites.
Symptoms usually appear later in the growing season on outdoor plants. Powdery mildew starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause leaves to curl, exposing the lower leaf surface. Infected leaves become covered with a white to gray powdery growth, usually on the upper surface; unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and may never open. Leaves of severely infected plants turn brown and drop. The disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature leaves are usually not affected.
Fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and other plant debris. Wind, water and insects transmit the spores to other nearby plants. Zucchini, beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, roses and zinnia are especially susceptible.
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars in sunny locations whenever possible.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Remove diseased foliage from the plant and clean up fallen debris on the ground.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Wash foliage occasionally to disrupt the daily spore-releasing cycle. Neem oil and PM Wash, used on a 7 day schedule, will prevent fungal attack on plants grown indoors.
Water in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses will help keep the foliage dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Destroy all plant debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following approved organic fungicides:
Apply sulfur or copper-based fungicides to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat at 7-10 day intervals up to the day of harvest.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. Monterey® BI-CARB is a similar product containing micro-encapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. Mix 4 tsps in 2 gallons of water to thoroughly cover foliage.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
SNS 244 and Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide are made from 100% pure, food-grade ingredients that work fast to kill existing plant diseases and prevent new fungal problems from starting.
Indoor growers may want to consider using a Sulfur Burner/ Vaporizer which turns sulfur prills into a fine dust and changes the pH of leaf surfaces. Fungal spores and mold can’t get established on this plant coating. As an added benefit, studies have shown that this dust will eliminate spider mites.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Commonly found throughout the United States, Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne pathogen that attacks potato, tomato, eggplant and pepper plants. Disease fungi (Fusarium oxysporum) enter through the roots and interfere with the water conducting vessels of the plant. As the infection spreads up into the stems and leaves it restricts water flow causing the foliage to wilt and turn yellow.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Downy mildew (Plasmopara viticola) affects many plants and appears as yellow to white patches on the upper surfaces of older leaves. On the undersides, these areas are covered with white to grayish, cotton-like fungi. These “downy” masses are most often noticed after rain or heavy dew and disappear soon after sunny weather resumes. As the disease progresses leaves may eventually turn crisp and brown and fall off even though the plant has ample water.
Downy mildew occurs in cool, moist weather usually in early spring or late fall. Spore production is favored by temperatures cooler than 65˚F. and by relative humidities approaching 100%. This disease overwinters on plant debris and in the soil. Fungal spores can be carried by insects, wind, rain or garden tools.
Treatment
The best way to prevent downy mildew is to avoid the environmental conditions that favor the disease.
Prune or stake plants and remove any weeds to improve air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use a soaker hose, to give the plants time to dry out during the day.
Keep the ground under infected plants clean during the fall and winter to prevent the disease from spreading.
Remove and destroy any plants with serious infection (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
Choose resistant varieties whenever possible.
Downy mildew is comparatively easy to control on most plants when the foliage and fruit are kept protected by a copper spray. Begin treatments two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat at 7-10 day intervals for as long as needed.
The systemic action of Organocide® Plant Doctor moves throughout the entire plant to treat common disease problems. Mix 3/4 tsp per gallon of water and apply to foliage. Spray to run-off, as required for disease control.
Downy mildew occurs in cool, moist weather usually in early spring or late fall. Spore production is favored by temperatures cooler than 65˚F. and by relative humidities approaching 100%. This disease overwinters on plant debris and in the soil. Fungal spores can be carried by insects, wind, rain or garden tools.
Treatment
The best way to prevent downy mildew is to avoid the environmental conditions that favor the disease.
Prune or stake plants and remove any weeds to improve air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use a soaker hose, to give the plants time to dry out during the day.
Keep the ground under infected plants clean during the fall and winter to prevent the disease from spreading.
Remove and destroy any plants with serious infection (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
Choose resistant varieties whenever possible.
Downy mildew is comparatively easy to control on most plants when the foliage and fruit are kept protected by a copper spray. Begin treatments two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat at 7-10 day intervals for as long as needed.
The systemic action of Organocide® Plant Doctor moves throughout the entire plant to treat common disease problems. Mix 3/4 tsp per gallon of water and apply to foliage. Spray to run-off, as required for disease control.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Generally found in the eastern part of the United States, anthracnose is caused by fungi in the genus Colletotrichum, a common group of plant pathogens that are responsible for diseases on many plant species. Infected plants develop dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. The centers of these lesions often become covered with pink, gelatinous masses of spores especially during moist, warm weather. Anthracnose can reduce a beautiful harvest into rotted waste in just a few days.
The fungal disease overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden debris. Cool wet weather promotes its development, and the optimum temperature for continued growth of the spores is between 75-85˚F. Moisture is required for development and germination of the fungus as well as for infection of the plant. It is spread by wind, rain, insects and garden tools.
Treatment
Choose resistant plant varieties when possible and use western grown seeds which have not been exposed to the disease.
If this fungal problem is common, do NOT save your own seed from plantings.
To avoid spreading the disease, keep out of gardens when plants are wet and make sure to disinfect all garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Do not compost infected leaves, fruit or stems and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall, after harvest, to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Liquid copper sprays and sulfur powders should be applied weekly, starting when foliage begins to develop in the early spring and continuing throughout the growing season. Spray early in the day, and avoid applications during hot weather. Seeds may also be treated prior to planting.
Neem oil spray is an organic, multi-purpose fungicide/insecticide/miticide that kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of insects as well as prevents fungal attack on plants. Apply early, at the first sign of spring budding, every 7-14 days as a preventative measure or on a 7-day schedule until existing problems are eliminated.
The fungal disease overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden debris. Cool wet weather promotes its development, and the optimum temperature for continued growth of the spores is between 75-85˚F. Moisture is required for development and germination of the fungus as well as for infection of the plant. It is spread by wind, rain, insects and garden tools.
Treatment
Choose resistant plant varieties when possible and use western grown seeds which have not been exposed to the disease.
If this fungal problem is common, do NOT save your own seed from plantings.
To avoid spreading the disease, keep out of gardens when plants are wet and make sure to disinfect all garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Do not compost infected leaves, fruit or stems and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall, after harvest, to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Liquid copper sprays and sulfur powders should be applied weekly, starting when foliage begins to develop in the early spring and continuing throughout the growing season. Spray early in the day, and avoid applications during hot weather. Seeds may also be treated prior to planting.
Neem oil spray is an organic, multi-purpose fungicide/insecticide/miticide that kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of insects as well as prevents fungal attack on plants. Apply early, at the first sign of spring budding, every 7-14 days as a preventative measure or on a 7-day schedule until existing problems are eliminated.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Orchids have a love/hate relationship with fungi.
Many people know that orchids developed their amazing flowers to attract very specific pollinators in the wild, but fewer people are aware of the plant's relationship to various fungus. After pollination, an orchid plant produces a large seed pod. This seed pod is filled with thousands or even tens of thousands of tiny seeds. In general, plants have two strategies with seeds: they either produce very few large seeds that are loaded with food and nutrients to help the seed germinate, or they produce many smaller seeds but invest less in each seed.
Orchids are definitely among the latter group: their seeds tend to be tiny, vulnerable little packets of cells that can't even properly germinate on their own. After an orchid seed is released from its seed pod, it floats on the wind until it lands in a suitable location. Once there, the seed must be colonized by a specific kind of fungus. The colonized orchid seed destroys and digests the fungal, drawing enough energy from it to begin germination. So it's fair to say that orchids would not exist without fungus.
Common Fungi
In cultivation, however, various fungi extract a terrifying revenge: they are among the most common killers of orchids. Orchids are susceptible to some fungi, including Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, Anthracnose, Botrytis, and Cercospora, among others. These fungal agents attack various parts of the plant, including roots, stems, leaves, and flowers. Destructive by themselves, fungal attacks also leave the plant vulnerable to opportunistic infection by bacteria.
Why Is Fungi an Issue?
Part of the reason fungi is such a problem in orchids is because they naturally thrive under the same conditions that many people assume orchids like wet, humid, and still. This, however, is something of a misconception. Most orchids we grow are canopy plants, not swamp plants.
They rely on good air circulation and drying periods to stay healthy. So the first and best defense against fungal attacks is cultural: don't let your plants stay wet, never head into a night with wet plants, and provide plenty of strong airflows to keep your plants healthy.
That said, however, most orchid growers will deal with some fungal infection at some point, especially the annoying black leaf spots that disfigure our perfect plants. In most cases, these infections can be successfully treated by spraying early with an effective anti-fungal agent.
Many people know that orchids developed their amazing flowers to attract very specific pollinators in the wild, but fewer people are aware of the plant's relationship to various fungus. After pollination, an orchid plant produces a large seed pod. This seed pod is filled with thousands or even tens of thousands of tiny seeds. In general, plants have two strategies with seeds: they either produce very few large seeds that are loaded with food and nutrients to help the seed germinate, or they produce many smaller seeds but invest less in each seed.
Orchids are definitely among the latter group: their seeds tend to be tiny, vulnerable little packets of cells that can't even properly germinate on their own. After an orchid seed is released from its seed pod, it floats on the wind until it lands in a suitable location. Once there, the seed must be colonized by a specific kind of fungus. The colonized orchid seed destroys and digests the fungal, drawing enough energy from it to begin germination. So it's fair to say that orchids would not exist without fungus.
Common Fungi
In cultivation, however, various fungi extract a terrifying revenge: they are among the most common killers of orchids. Orchids are susceptible to some fungi, including Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, Anthracnose, Botrytis, and Cercospora, among others. These fungal agents attack various parts of the plant, including roots, stems, leaves, and flowers. Destructive by themselves, fungal attacks also leave the plant vulnerable to opportunistic infection by bacteria.
Why Is Fungi an Issue?
Part of the reason fungi is such a problem in orchids is because they naturally thrive under the same conditions that many people assume orchids like wet, humid, and still. This, however, is something of a misconception. Most orchids we grow are canopy plants, not swamp plants.
They rely on good air circulation and drying periods to stay healthy. So the first and best defense against fungal attacks is cultural: don't let your plants stay wet, never head into a night with wet plants, and provide plenty of strong airflows to keep your plants healthy.
That said, however, most orchid growers will deal with some fungal infection at some point, especially the annoying black leaf spots that disfigure our perfect plants. In most cases, these infections can be successfully treated by spraying early with an effective anti-fungal agent.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that results in a powdery gray or white coating on the leaves and stems of infected plants. Several different species of fungi in the order Erysiphales can cause the disease, though the symptoms are always similar. A powdery mildew infection generally starts out as a few spores on the leaves but quickly spreads. The white powdery surface is a thick coating of the fungi spores.
The fungi easily overwinters in garden debris, and thus is very hard to eradicate entirely. It can eventually cause yellowing the leaves and premature leaf drop.
As virtually all gardeners know, powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions with moderate temperatures. In any region with humid summers, powdery mildew virtually always makes its appearance. While it can affect any plants, there are certain species much more susceptible to heavy infection:
Some Plants Susceptible to Powdery Mildew:
Apples
Begonia
California poppy
Dahlia
Delphinium
Hollyhock
Hydrangea
Lilacs
Monarda
Oak
Strawberries
Phlox
Roses
Strawberries
Zinnia
Damage to Plants
In many cases, powdery mildew does little damage to plants but is merely unattractive. And some plants seem so susceptible to powdery mildew that it is virtually unavoidable--an expected cost if you choose to grow these species. Many gardeners simply resign themselves to the fact that powdery mildew will make an appearance nearly every year and don't bother to fight it aggressively.
But besides being unattractive, powdery mildew can in extreme cases result in leaf yellowing and dropping, stunted plant growth, distortion of buds, blooms, and fruit, and eventual overall weakening of the plant.
Disease Life Cycle
Spores overwinter on diseased plant parts and begin asexual production of new spores once the weather warms.
New spores are carried on the wind to other parts of the plant or to other nearby plants. Spores never stop producing more spores, so if infected leaves are not destroyed, the problem can never be eradicated and will only get worse.
Treatment and Prevention
Powdery mildew thrives in temperatures between 60° and 80°F. Dry, shady conditions are ideal, as are areas with poor air circulation. Few chemical fungicides offer much cure for powdery mildew; the best strategies are more mechanical in nature, such as simply removing and destroying diseased plants and plant parts.
Planting disease-resistant cultivars and making sure you allow for good air flow are two ways to guard against powdery mildew. Beyond this, possible control methods to keep powdery mildew in check include the following:
Plant species that are most susceptible in a location where they can receive early morning sun. This will allow condensation to dry out quickly and reduce the humid conditions that foster the fungus.
Enhance air circulation by spacing plants well apart. Better ventilation will reduce the disease. Dense plants can be thinned out to improve air flow.
Inspect plants regularly during warm, dry conditions, and remove any leaves that show signs of infection. Destroy (do not compost!) infected plant parts.
A spray made with baking soda, if applied weekly at the first signs of infection, can protect plants against further damage.
Plants that are badly infected should be ripped out and destroyed to prevent the disease from spreading further.
A commercially available organic option is Neem oil, which both treats existing powdery mildew and protects the plant against further infection.
Interestingly enough, an effective measure in preventing and treating powdery mildew is to spray the foliage of your plants daily with plain water from the hose. Powdery mildew hates water! The only caveat with this method is to be sure you do it early in the day so that the foliage completely dries before cooler evening temperatures arrive, otherwise you may invite other fungal diseases such as black spotinto your garden.
The fungi easily overwinters in garden debris, and thus is very hard to eradicate entirely. It can eventually cause yellowing the leaves and premature leaf drop.
As virtually all gardeners know, powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions with moderate temperatures. In any region with humid summers, powdery mildew virtually always makes its appearance. While it can affect any plants, there are certain species much more susceptible to heavy infection:
Some Plants Susceptible to Powdery Mildew:
Apples
Begonia
California poppy
Dahlia
Delphinium
Hollyhock
Hydrangea
Lilacs
Monarda
Oak
Strawberries
Phlox
Roses
Strawberries
Zinnia
Damage to Plants
In many cases, powdery mildew does little damage to plants but is merely unattractive. And some plants seem so susceptible to powdery mildew that it is virtually unavoidable--an expected cost if you choose to grow these species. Many gardeners simply resign themselves to the fact that powdery mildew will make an appearance nearly every year and don't bother to fight it aggressively.
But besides being unattractive, powdery mildew can in extreme cases result in leaf yellowing and dropping, stunted plant growth, distortion of buds, blooms, and fruit, and eventual overall weakening of the plant.
Disease Life Cycle
Spores overwinter on diseased plant parts and begin asexual production of new spores once the weather warms.
New spores are carried on the wind to other parts of the plant or to other nearby plants. Spores never stop producing more spores, so if infected leaves are not destroyed, the problem can never be eradicated and will only get worse.
Treatment and Prevention
Powdery mildew thrives in temperatures between 60° and 80°F. Dry, shady conditions are ideal, as are areas with poor air circulation. Few chemical fungicides offer much cure for powdery mildew; the best strategies are more mechanical in nature, such as simply removing and destroying diseased plants and plant parts.
Planting disease-resistant cultivars and making sure you allow for good air flow are two ways to guard against powdery mildew. Beyond this, possible control methods to keep powdery mildew in check include the following:
Plant species that are most susceptible in a location where they can receive early morning sun. This will allow condensation to dry out quickly and reduce the humid conditions that foster the fungus.
Enhance air circulation by spacing plants well apart. Better ventilation will reduce the disease. Dense plants can be thinned out to improve air flow.
Inspect plants regularly during warm, dry conditions, and remove any leaves that show signs of infection. Destroy (do not compost!) infected plant parts.
A spray made with baking soda, if applied weekly at the first signs of infection, can protect plants against further damage.
Plants that are badly infected should be ripped out and destroyed to prevent the disease from spreading further.
A commercially available organic option is Neem oil, which both treats existing powdery mildew and protects the plant against further infection.
Interestingly enough, an effective measure in preventing and treating powdery mildew is to spray the foliage of your plants daily with plain water from the hose. Powdery mildew hates water! The only caveat with this method is to be sure you do it early in the day so that the foliage completely dries before cooler evening temperatures arrive, otherwise you may invite other fungal diseases such as black spotinto your garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
No one likes to find their flower gardening efforts thwarted by hungry insects intent on making a meal of our prize specimens. However, some insect pests do more than just snack on our plants; they can introduce fungi and other diseases than can sound the death knell for our favorite flowers.
Aphids
Gardeners everywhere curse the presence of tiny aphids on rose, honeysuckle, and other flowering foliage growth tips in the springtime. The sucking action of these insect pests causes stunted growth and deformed leaves and flowers. However, aphids bring more havoc to the flower garden in the form of plant viruses and black sooty mold fungus.
Start your aphid battle the natural way: Plant sweet alyssum in the flower garden to draw beneficial wasps, include cosmos to attract hungry lacewings, and add penstemon or yarrow to attract ladybugs. Insect soap and a strong blast of water will take care of heavy infestations.
Borers
Borers are an insidious pest, destroying your flowering plants from the inside out. The worst borer in the flower garden is the iris borer, which will tunnel through an entire iris rhizome, leaving bacterial rot in its wake. You should be suspicious if you notice sawdust material around the base of your irises or ragged leaf margins.
Discourage borers by removing iris leaves in the fall, which provide a host for borer moth eggs. In the spring, you can apply the systemic pesticide Merit or the nontoxic spray Garden Shield.
Leafhoppers
Only about an eighth of an inch long, leafhopper insects look innocuous enough. The green insects don’t congregate in large numbers on plants, and hop away when you approach. However, what you won’t notice is the toxin these hungry pests inject every time they insert their mouthparts into the underside of your flower’s foliage. This allows the damage to travel beyond the chewed part of the leaf, showing up as distorted leaf tips and edges. The insects also spread the aster yellows virus.
Blast leafhopper nymphs from plants with a strong jet of water. Spray adults with insect soap, pyrethrin, or Sevin. Keep dandelion and thistle weeds away from the flower garden, as they provide cover for leafhoppers.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs don’t draw much attention, as the pests are only 3/16 of an inch long and move very slowly. The honeydew they excrete supports sooty mold growth. When enough sooty mold accumulates on foliage, it can reduce photosynthesis, weakening the plant and making it even more susceptible to garden pests.
If you notice white fuzzy growths on your plants, you may have mealybugs. Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and touch it to the pests to desiccate and kill them instantly. You can also spray the pests away with water, or apply Malathion or Orthene pesticide sprays.
Plant Bugs
Like leafhoppers, plant bugs inject a toxin into your plants’ leaves, buds, and shoots as they feed. The result is a plant mottled with brown or black spots and deformed growth. Dahlias, azaleas, daisies, liatris, and asters are just a few of the flowering plants these bugs feast upon. Gardeners should be on the lookout for tarnished plant bugs and four-lined plant bugs, growing up to ¼ inch long.
Plant bugs are fast moving pests, but you can pluck them off and drop them into a bucket of soapy water if you’re an early riser, as the bugs are sluggish in the morning. Otherwise, spray your plants with neem, Sevin, or diazinon.
Scale
At first glance, scale insects may not even seem alive. The waxy covering that serves as a protective shield on the bugs makes them resemble lichen or other natural growths on their host plants. The scale insect under this waxy covering is very alive indeed, feeding on garden plants throughout the entire growing season and houseplants throughout the year. Damage appears as stunted growth, leaf drop, yellow spots on leaves, and sooty mold growth that thrives on the scale’s honeydew.
Parasitic wasps love to use scale insects as hosts, and you may see evidence of this as tiny holes piercing the scale’s armor. This same armor makes scale resistant to many pesticides, but dormant oil can suffocate the insects during the winter season.
Whiteflies
Upon disturbance, whiteflies flutter about their host plants like an ephemeral cloud, but their damage is formidable. This is another honeydew-secreting pest, encouraging sooty mold while simultaneously leaving plants yellow and stunted after sucking on plant juices. Some whiteflies also carry plant viruses. Whiteflies are the bane of greenhouse growers, who detect their presence with yellow sticky traps.
Take advantage of the small size and weakness of these insects by using a vacuum to remove them from plants. You can also spray them with insect soap, pythrethrins, and malathion.
Aphids
Gardeners everywhere curse the presence of tiny aphids on rose, honeysuckle, and other flowering foliage growth tips in the springtime. The sucking action of these insect pests causes stunted growth and deformed leaves and flowers. However, aphids bring more havoc to the flower garden in the form of plant viruses and black sooty mold fungus.
Start your aphid battle the natural way: Plant sweet alyssum in the flower garden to draw beneficial wasps, include cosmos to attract hungry lacewings, and add penstemon or yarrow to attract ladybugs. Insect soap and a strong blast of water will take care of heavy infestations.
Borers
Borers are an insidious pest, destroying your flowering plants from the inside out. The worst borer in the flower garden is the iris borer, which will tunnel through an entire iris rhizome, leaving bacterial rot in its wake. You should be suspicious if you notice sawdust material around the base of your irises or ragged leaf margins.
Discourage borers by removing iris leaves in the fall, which provide a host for borer moth eggs. In the spring, you can apply the systemic pesticide Merit or the nontoxic spray Garden Shield.
Leafhoppers
Only about an eighth of an inch long, leafhopper insects look innocuous enough. The green insects don’t congregate in large numbers on plants, and hop away when you approach. However, what you won’t notice is the toxin these hungry pests inject every time they insert their mouthparts into the underside of your flower’s foliage. This allows the damage to travel beyond the chewed part of the leaf, showing up as distorted leaf tips and edges. The insects also spread the aster yellows virus.
Blast leafhopper nymphs from plants with a strong jet of water. Spray adults with insect soap, pyrethrin, or Sevin. Keep dandelion and thistle weeds away from the flower garden, as they provide cover for leafhoppers.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs don’t draw much attention, as the pests are only 3/16 of an inch long and move very slowly. The honeydew they excrete supports sooty mold growth. When enough sooty mold accumulates on foliage, it can reduce photosynthesis, weakening the plant and making it even more susceptible to garden pests.
If you notice white fuzzy growths on your plants, you may have mealybugs. Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and touch it to the pests to desiccate and kill them instantly. You can also spray the pests away with water, or apply Malathion or Orthene pesticide sprays.
Plant Bugs
Like leafhoppers, plant bugs inject a toxin into your plants’ leaves, buds, and shoots as they feed. The result is a plant mottled with brown or black spots and deformed growth. Dahlias, azaleas, daisies, liatris, and asters are just a few of the flowering plants these bugs feast upon. Gardeners should be on the lookout for tarnished plant bugs and four-lined plant bugs, growing up to ¼ inch long.
Plant bugs are fast moving pests, but you can pluck them off and drop them into a bucket of soapy water if you’re an early riser, as the bugs are sluggish in the morning. Otherwise, spray your plants with neem, Sevin, or diazinon.
Scale
At first glance, scale insects may not even seem alive. The waxy covering that serves as a protective shield on the bugs makes them resemble lichen or other natural growths on their host plants. The scale insect under this waxy covering is very alive indeed, feeding on garden plants throughout the entire growing season and houseplants throughout the year. Damage appears as stunted growth, leaf drop, yellow spots on leaves, and sooty mold growth that thrives on the scale’s honeydew.
Parasitic wasps love to use scale insects as hosts, and you may see evidence of this as tiny holes piercing the scale’s armor. This same armor makes scale resistant to many pesticides, but dormant oil can suffocate the insects during the winter season.
Whiteflies
Upon disturbance, whiteflies flutter about their host plants like an ephemeral cloud, but their damage is formidable. This is another honeydew-secreting pest, encouraging sooty mold while simultaneously leaving plants yellow and stunted after sucking on plant juices. Some whiteflies also carry plant viruses. Whiteflies are the bane of greenhouse growers, who detect their presence with yellow sticky traps.
Take advantage of the small size and weakness of these insects by using a vacuum to remove them from plants. You can also spray them with insect soap, pythrethrins, and malathion.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Pink rot fungus, also known as Gliocladium blight, is a palm tree disease that infects damaged or weakened palms. Like many fungi, it is easier to prevent than it is to treat. Here are some tips on dealing with pink rot on palms.
Pink Rot Fungus in Palms
You won’t see a healthy, robust palm tree planted in just the right place with pink rot fungus. Called an opportunistic fungus, pink rot likes to invade a plant that is already weakened by poor conditions or injuries. Here are a few situations that can lead to pink rot on palms:
Palms that don’t get the right amount of sunlight
Palms planted to deeply or not deeply enough
Soil that is wet, poorly drained or compacted
Too much, too little or the wrong type of fertilizer
Cold weather damage
Palms poorly suited to the area
In addition to these environmental conditions, wounds can leave a palm susceptible to pink rot. Pruning away old leaves too soon creates a wound that serves as an entry point for disease. Remove leaf bases during warm, dry weather and only if they come away easily. Wounds caused by freeze damage and landscape maintenance injuries can also lead to pink rot.
Preventing Pink Rot Disease in Palm Trees
Make sure the soil drains freely before planting palms. To test the soil drainage, dig a hole about a foot deep and fill it with water. Let the water drain completely and then immediately fill it again. The water level should drop between one and six inches per hour. Will the palm get the right amount of sunlight in the proposed site? The amount of sunlight or shade the tree needs depends on the species, so check the growing information on the plant tag. If the tree isn’t just right for the location you have in mind, consider another type of palm or a different site.
Fertilize palm trees with a special fertilizer designed for palms. Palm fertilizers contain the high concentrations of trace elements that palms need. Follow the package instructions regarding the amount of fertilizer to use and the frequency. Make sure your climate is right for the palm you choose. If temperatures drop too low for the species, the resulting injury can encourage pink rot. A local nursery can help you find the right palm for your area.
Treating Palms with Pink Rot
The first step in treating the disease is to correct the stress condition that brought it on. If you can’t change the condition in the tree’s current location, you’ll have to decide whether you are willing to continue battling pink rot. If not, you may have no choice but to remove the tree and replace it with one better suited to the location. There are a couple of fungicides that can help treat pink rot disease in palm trees. You should consider fungicides a temporary measure to help restore the tree while you correct the cultural conditions. Look for fungicide treatments containing thiophanate methyl and mancozeb.
Follow the label instructions and use these pink rot palm treatments on the area of infection. You can also use them as a preventative measure to treat wounds and after pruning.
Pink Rot Fungus in Palms
You won’t see a healthy, robust palm tree planted in just the right place with pink rot fungus. Called an opportunistic fungus, pink rot likes to invade a plant that is already weakened by poor conditions or injuries. Here are a few situations that can lead to pink rot on palms:
Palms that don’t get the right amount of sunlight
Palms planted to deeply or not deeply enough
Soil that is wet, poorly drained or compacted
Too much, too little or the wrong type of fertilizer
Cold weather damage
Palms poorly suited to the area
In addition to these environmental conditions, wounds can leave a palm susceptible to pink rot. Pruning away old leaves too soon creates a wound that serves as an entry point for disease. Remove leaf bases during warm, dry weather and only if they come away easily. Wounds caused by freeze damage and landscape maintenance injuries can also lead to pink rot.
Preventing Pink Rot Disease in Palm Trees
Make sure the soil drains freely before planting palms. To test the soil drainage, dig a hole about a foot deep and fill it with water. Let the water drain completely and then immediately fill it again. The water level should drop between one and six inches per hour. Will the palm get the right amount of sunlight in the proposed site? The amount of sunlight or shade the tree needs depends on the species, so check the growing information on the plant tag. If the tree isn’t just right for the location you have in mind, consider another type of palm or a different site.
Fertilize palm trees with a special fertilizer designed for palms. Palm fertilizers contain the high concentrations of trace elements that palms need. Follow the package instructions regarding the amount of fertilizer to use and the frequency. Make sure your climate is right for the palm you choose. If temperatures drop too low for the species, the resulting injury can encourage pink rot. A local nursery can help you find the right palm for your area.
Treating Palms with Pink Rot
The first step in treating the disease is to correct the stress condition that brought it on. If you can’t change the condition in the tree’s current location, you’ll have to decide whether you are willing to continue battling pink rot. If not, you may have no choice but to remove the tree and replace it with one better suited to the location. There are a couple of fungicides that can help treat pink rot disease in palm trees. You should consider fungicides a temporary measure to help restore the tree while you correct the cultural conditions. Look for fungicide treatments containing thiophanate methyl and mancozeb.
Follow the label instructions and use these pink rot palm treatments on the area of infection. You can also use them as a preventative measure to treat wounds and after pruning.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose plants exhibiting stem discoloration or blackening may have contracted a fungal disease that causes stem cankers. Stem cankers are caused by several different fungi, according to Ohio State University. These fungal spores enter through the wounds made in stems by improper pruning or weather damage. It is important for rose gardeners to recognize the signs of stem cankers and employ proper disease management practices.
Stem Cankers
Disease-causing fungal spores overwinter in debris left underneath rose plants, according to the University of Georgia. In the spring when temperatures rise, these fungal spores germinate and spread through the wind. Often, rose plants are infected during hot humid weather. Improper pruning practices, rainwater, irrigation water, open wounds and infected pruning tools spread fungal spores to different areas of your plant. Gardeners must employ proper management practices and monitor their plant for symptoms during hot humid weather.
Symptoms
Infected stems display lesions that grow in size and become discolored. Lesions may start off turning yellow or purple, according to the University of Georgia. Over time, lesions sink into the stems, take on a wrinkly appearance and crack. Furthermore, infected areas turn black. You may see the black fruiting bodies of the fungal spores growing from these infected areas. The result is stem girdling, which prevents both water and nutrients from getting past the cankers.
Treatment
Spray your infected rose plant with the same type of fungicide that you would use to treat blackspot disease. Your fungicide may contain active ingredients such as chlorothalonil, maneb and benomyl, according to Mississippi State University. Avoid spraying a rose plant that is suffering from water stress with fungicide to prevent causing damage. Continue to spray during the growing season to treat stem cankers.
Pruning
Remove diseased portions of your rose plant. Dip your bypass shears in a mixture of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water. Make 45-degree angled cuts 5 to 6 inches below the stem canker, as suggested by the University of Georgia. Apply a small amount of glue to the wound to keep fungal spores from entering the plant. Clean up all debris underneath your rose plants. Burn or throw away debris, but do not place the diseased portions of the plant in your compost.
Stem Cankers
Disease-causing fungal spores overwinter in debris left underneath rose plants, according to the University of Georgia. In the spring when temperatures rise, these fungal spores germinate and spread through the wind. Often, rose plants are infected during hot humid weather. Improper pruning practices, rainwater, irrigation water, open wounds and infected pruning tools spread fungal spores to different areas of your plant. Gardeners must employ proper management practices and monitor their plant for symptoms during hot humid weather.
Symptoms
Infected stems display lesions that grow in size and become discolored. Lesions may start off turning yellow or purple, according to the University of Georgia. Over time, lesions sink into the stems, take on a wrinkly appearance and crack. Furthermore, infected areas turn black. You may see the black fruiting bodies of the fungal spores growing from these infected areas. The result is stem girdling, which prevents both water and nutrients from getting past the cankers.
Treatment
Spray your infected rose plant with the same type of fungicide that you would use to treat blackspot disease. Your fungicide may contain active ingredients such as chlorothalonil, maneb and benomyl, according to Mississippi State University. Avoid spraying a rose plant that is suffering from water stress with fungicide to prevent causing damage. Continue to spray during the growing season to treat stem cankers.
Pruning
Remove diseased portions of your rose plant. Dip your bypass shears in a mixture of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water. Make 45-degree angled cuts 5 to 6 inches below the stem canker, as suggested by the University of Georgia. Apply a small amount of glue to the wound to keep fungal spores from entering the plant. Clean up all debris underneath your rose plants. Burn or throw away debris, but do not place the diseased portions of the plant in your compost.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Plant rust is a general term that refers to a rather large family of fungi that attack plants. Frequently, when a plant is affected by rust fungi, many gardeners feel at a loss as to what to do. Rust treatment as a plant disease is startling but can be treated.
Symptoms of Plant Rust
Rust fungi are very easy to identify on the plant. The disease can be characterized by a rust color on plant leaves and stems. The rust will start out as flecks and will eventually grow into bumps. The plant rust will most likely appear on the underside of the leaves of the plant. The good news is that there are so many kinds of rust fungi and they are so plant specific, that if you see the rust color on plant leaves of one type of plant, you will not see it appear any other types of plants in your yard.
Rust Treatment for This Plant Disease
For rust fungi, prevention is the best defense. Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not overwater your plants. Also, make sure your plants have good air circulation inside the branches and around the plant itself. This will help it dry its leaves faster. If plant rust does affect your plant, remove affected leaves at the first sign of rust color on plant leaves. The faster the affected leaves can be removed, the better chance your plant has for survival. Be sure to dispose of these leaves. Do not compost them. Then treat your plant with a fungicide, such as neem oil. Continue to remove leaves and treat the plant until all signs of the plant rust are gone.
Symptoms of Plant Rust
Rust fungi are very easy to identify on the plant. The disease can be characterized by a rust color on plant leaves and stems. The rust will start out as flecks and will eventually grow into bumps. The plant rust will most likely appear on the underside of the leaves of the plant. The good news is that there are so many kinds of rust fungi and they are so plant specific, that if you see the rust color on plant leaves of one type of plant, you will not see it appear any other types of plants in your yard.
Rust Treatment for This Plant Disease
For rust fungi, prevention is the best defense. Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not overwater your plants. Also, make sure your plants have good air circulation inside the branches and around the plant itself. This will help it dry its leaves faster. If plant rust does affect your plant, remove affected leaves at the first sign of rust color on plant leaves. The faster the affected leaves can be removed, the better chance your plant has for survival. Be sure to dispose of these leaves. Do not compost them. Then treat your plant with a fungicide, such as neem oil. Continue to remove leaves and treat the plant until all signs of the plant rust are gone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Gardeners know that any manner of disease can befall their prized plants. In the case of Armillaria root rot, fungi are the underlying cause and the disease can be fatal. Armillaria root rot symptoms can by sly, starting out slowly with slowed growth and culminating with wood rot and mortality. Recognizing the disease and implementing a process of Armillaria root rot control can slow the disease. More information can be found by reading the article below. What is Armillaria Root Rot? Armillaria affects many ornamental and edible plants. What is Armillaria root rot? The disease is found through temperate and tropical regions of the world. Symptoms can be difficult to identify because the fungus responsible for the disease attacks roots deep in the soil. Once the disease has started to progress, it can be difficult or even impossible to arrest its effects. Armillaria stems from its mycelium harbored in the earth. The disease can persist for many years before above-ground symptoms emerge.
Typical Armillaria root rot symptoms can vary from species to species, making the disease even more difficult to nip in the bud. Additionally, the fungus spreads in groves or stands of trees from plant to plant through rhizomorphs, very similar to root rhizomes. It can also spread when mechanical soil movement occurs and transfers diseased wood chips. This makes the disease that much more insidious and challenging to manage. Armillaria Root Rot Symptoms One of the first symptoms of the disease is usually wilted, limp foliage. Leaves or needles yellow and fall, while upper limbs experience die-back. Definite diagnosis of the disease may involve cutting into the cambium of the affected tree.
The fungus appears in cambium as whitish in color and has a distinctly mushroom-like odor. Affected conifers may develop a bumper crop of cones, known as stress cones, and any sick tree is prone to attack by other disease and insect pests. Among the more interesting Armillaria root rot facts, is its natural presence in soil and symbiotic relationship with affected trees. Plants under environmental stress, other disease issues and in incorrect sites will be more quickly symptomatic than trees in excellent health. Armillaria root rot control depends upon early recognition of symptoms and superior cultural care of diseased plants. Treatment for Armillaria Root Rot Sadly, there is no absolute treatment for Armillaria root rot. The disease can be managed by consistent removal of dead trees and infected stumps.
Armillaria requires consistent moisture to survive, and in citrus groves, excavation around the root crown has been an effective deterrent but not an ultimate cure. Providing excellent care to trees has been shown to increase vigor and health, thereby reducing the plant’s symptoms. In large scale forests, affected stands are often removed and replanted with species that are naturally resistant to the disease. Occasionally, chemical fumigants are applied, reducing the spread of the disease. This practice isn’t practical for the home gardener, so cultural management, removal of infected plant material and good sanitation seem to be the best options in the home landscape.
Typical Armillaria root rot symptoms can vary from species to species, making the disease even more difficult to nip in the bud. Additionally, the fungus spreads in groves or stands of trees from plant to plant through rhizomorphs, very similar to root rhizomes. It can also spread when mechanical soil movement occurs and transfers diseased wood chips. This makes the disease that much more insidious and challenging to manage. Armillaria Root Rot Symptoms One of the first symptoms of the disease is usually wilted, limp foliage. Leaves or needles yellow and fall, while upper limbs experience die-back. Definite diagnosis of the disease may involve cutting into the cambium of the affected tree.
The fungus appears in cambium as whitish in color and has a distinctly mushroom-like odor. Affected conifers may develop a bumper crop of cones, known as stress cones, and any sick tree is prone to attack by other disease and insect pests. Among the more interesting Armillaria root rot facts, is its natural presence in soil and symbiotic relationship with affected trees. Plants under environmental stress, other disease issues and in incorrect sites will be more quickly symptomatic than trees in excellent health. Armillaria root rot control depends upon early recognition of symptoms and superior cultural care of diseased plants. Treatment for Armillaria Root Rot Sadly, there is no absolute treatment for Armillaria root rot. The disease can be managed by consistent removal of dead trees and infected stumps.
Armillaria requires consistent moisture to survive, and in citrus groves, excavation around the root crown has been an effective deterrent but not an ultimate cure. Providing excellent care to trees has been shown to increase vigor and health, thereby reducing the plant’s symptoms. In large scale forests, affected stands are often removed and replanted with species that are naturally resistant to the disease. Occasionally, chemical fumigants are applied, reducing the spread of the disease. This practice isn’t practical for the home gardener, so cultural management, removal of infected plant material and good sanitation seem to be the best options in the home landscape.
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文章
Hande Salcan
2017年02月21日
Of all the plant pathogens, the ones you will deal with mostly are fungi. All plants are susceptible to attack from fungus. Most #fungi love wet conditions, and overwatering can produce such conditions.
If the soil your plant is rooted in does not drain well, and water stands too long at the base and around the roots, then your #plant is at risk of developing water mold root rot, a condition that is caused by a variety of fungi. The fungi start a rot that invades the roots and then works its way up the plant. This can be a quick or a slow process, depending on conditions. Often, after the rot is established, you will see dark discolorations in the plant’s roots and stems. This is where the infected plant tissue meets the healthy tissue.
The following is a list of potential problems and common symptoms caused by fungal diseases.
Damping-off: This disease can kill seedlings before they even break through the soil, but it also strikes seedlings just an inch or so tall.
Root Rot: This generally attacks older plants, killing the tiny rootlets and appearing above ground as stunting and wilting.
Club Root: This disease commonly infects cabbage family plants, causing large swellings on roots and or dead plants.
Blights: Includes early and late blight, which attack tomatoes and their relatives. The fungi can damage or kill leaves and cause rot in the fruit.
Mildews: This would include downy and powdery mildew. Infection results in spots or white patches on leaves, shoots, and other plant parts. Downy mildew can kill plants rapidly; powdery mildew commonly causes poor growth and lower yield, but seldom kills the plant.
Rusts: This disease will produce orange and white spots, usually on leaves and stems, weakening plants and reducing crop yields.
Leaf Spot: These symptoms are caused by a wide range of fungi.
How to Minimize Fungal Problems
Fungi spread by spore production, giving the disease the ability to travel great distances. The spores can be picked up by animals or water, including gardeners! One of the best ways to prevent fungal problems is to select plants that are resistant to the fungal diseases in your area.
After treating plants with fungal problems, rinse your gardening tools with alcohol or bleach, in case any spores remain, and destroy any diseased leaves rather than leaving them on the ground or placing them in your composting bin.
Organic Fungus-Killing Sprays
Instead of treating areas with chemical powders, you can use organic fungicides made straight from products in your kichen. Here is a list of some safe and easy to make sprays:
Basic Soda Spray
2 Tablespoons baking soda
1 gallon water
Add 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil (adds stickiness)
Mix all together and spray on problem areas.
Soda Spray for Rust
2 tablespoons baking soda
1 gallon water
6 tablespoons of vegetable oil
2 tablespoons kelp extract
Mix together and spray rust-covered areas.
Garlic is known to fight many types of disease-causing fungi, including mildew, mold, and rust. Garlic has not only shown that it can fight fungi but it also has some repellant qualities for other diseases and insects.
Basic Garlic Spray
1 garlic bulb
1 quart water
Crush the garlic and place in a pan of water, bring to a boil, then turn off heat. Let the mixture cool. Strain out the garlic.
Pour liquid into a spray bottle and spray the infected areas of the plant.
Vinegar Spray
Apple cider vinegar makes a great spray to combat many fungal diseases, including black spot on roses.
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 gallon water.
Mix together. Spray plants, being sure to do so in the morning so that the plant can dry out before evening.
Nothing spoils the look of a plant or shrub more than a fungus disease. Hopefully, by using some of the methods described in this article, you will be able to keep your plants looking healthy!
If the soil your plant is rooted in does not drain well, and water stands too long at the base and around the roots, then your #plant is at risk of developing water mold root rot, a condition that is caused by a variety of fungi. The fungi start a rot that invades the roots and then works its way up the plant. This can be a quick or a slow process, depending on conditions. Often, after the rot is established, you will see dark discolorations in the plant’s roots and stems. This is where the infected plant tissue meets the healthy tissue.
The following is a list of potential problems and common symptoms caused by fungal diseases.
Damping-off: This disease can kill seedlings before they even break through the soil, but it also strikes seedlings just an inch or so tall.
Root Rot: This generally attacks older plants, killing the tiny rootlets and appearing above ground as stunting and wilting.
Club Root: This disease commonly infects cabbage family plants, causing large swellings on roots and or dead plants.
Blights: Includes early and late blight, which attack tomatoes and their relatives. The fungi can damage or kill leaves and cause rot in the fruit.
Mildews: This would include downy and powdery mildew. Infection results in spots or white patches on leaves, shoots, and other plant parts. Downy mildew can kill plants rapidly; powdery mildew commonly causes poor growth and lower yield, but seldom kills the plant.
Rusts: This disease will produce orange and white spots, usually on leaves and stems, weakening plants and reducing crop yields.
Leaf Spot: These symptoms are caused by a wide range of fungi.
How to Minimize Fungal Problems
Fungi spread by spore production, giving the disease the ability to travel great distances. The spores can be picked up by animals or water, including gardeners! One of the best ways to prevent fungal problems is to select plants that are resistant to the fungal diseases in your area.
After treating plants with fungal problems, rinse your gardening tools with alcohol or bleach, in case any spores remain, and destroy any diseased leaves rather than leaving them on the ground or placing them in your composting bin.
Organic Fungus-Killing Sprays
Instead of treating areas with chemical powders, you can use organic fungicides made straight from products in your kichen. Here is a list of some safe and easy to make sprays:
Basic Soda Spray
2 Tablespoons baking soda
1 gallon water
Add 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil (adds stickiness)
Mix all together and spray on problem areas.
Soda Spray for Rust
2 tablespoons baking soda
1 gallon water
6 tablespoons of vegetable oil
2 tablespoons kelp extract
Mix together and spray rust-covered areas.
Garlic is known to fight many types of disease-causing fungi, including mildew, mold, and rust. Garlic has not only shown that it can fight fungi but it also has some repellant qualities for other diseases and insects.
Basic Garlic Spray
1 garlic bulb
1 quart water
Crush the garlic and place in a pan of water, bring to a boil, then turn off heat. Let the mixture cool. Strain out the garlic.
Pour liquid into a spray bottle and spray the infected areas of the plant.
Vinegar Spray
Apple cider vinegar makes a great spray to combat many fungal diseases, including black spot on roses.
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 gallon water.
Mix together. Spray plants, being sure to do so in the morning so that the plant can dry out before evening.
Nothing spoils the look of a plant or shrub more than a fungus disease. Hopefully, by using some of the methods described in this article, you will be able to keep your plants looking healthy!
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