文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月16日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is about 1-2' tall, consisting of some basal leaves, branched stems with alternate leaves, and flowers. The basal leaves are up to 5" long and 5" across; they have long hairy petioles. Each basal leaf is palmately cleft into 3-5 lobes; these lobes are often divided again into smaller lobes. The alternate leaves are similar to the basal leaves, except they become smaller as they ascend the stems and their petioles are shorter. The upper leaves are more slender and divided into fewer lobes. The margins of the leaves are crenate or dentate. The upper surface of each leaf is medium to dark green and glabrous. The stems are light green, terete, and covered with long hairs; they are erect to ascending, rather than sprawling across the ground.
The upper stems terminate in loose clusters of flowers. Each flower is about 1/3" (8 mm.) across, consisting of 5-6 yellow petals, 5 light green sepals, a dense green cluster of pistils, and a ring of surrounding stamens with yellow anthers. The petals are oblong-elliptic and a little shorter than the sepals; the latter tend to hang downward while the flowers are blooming. The pedicels of the flowers are pubescent. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to early summer and lasts about 1 month. Both sepals and petals are deciduous and they soon fall to the ground. The pistils become transformed into a dense cluster of flat-sided achenes with slender hooked beaks; this fruit is globoid in shape. Eventually, the fruit changes in color from green to nearly black. Each achene is about 2-3 mm. long. The root system consists of a cluster of fibrous roots and occasional rhizomes. Sometimes, small clonal colonies of plants are produced.
Cultivation: The preference is light to medium shade, wet to moist conditions, and soil with abundant organic material.
Range & Habitat: The native Hooked Buttercup is widely distributed in Illinois, but it is found only occasional in most areas (see Distribution Map). Habitats include damp depressions in upland woodlands, floodplain woodlands, shaded areas along streams, bottoms of rocky ravines, areas along woodland paths, swamps, forested bogs, and shady seeps. This species prefers damp woodlands and shaded wetlands.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts primarily small bees. These include Cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), Halictid bees (Augochlorella spp., Lasioglossum spp.), and Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.). Among vertebrate animals, the Wood Duck, Ruffed Grouse, and Wild Turkey feed on the seeds and foliage of Ranunculus spp. (Buttercups) in woodlands. The Eastern Chipmunk also eats the seeds of these plants. Hoofed mammalian herbivores usually avoid the consumption of buttercups because the toxic foliage contains a blistering agent that can irritate the mouth and gastrointestinal tract.
Photographic Location: Along a stream at the bottom of a rocky ravine at The Portland Arch in west-central Indiana.
Comments: This buttercup has achenes with unusually long hooked beaks; this provides its fruit with a slightly spiny appearance. While its foliage is reasonably attractive, the flowers are not very showy. Other similar buttercups include Ranunculus abortivus (Small-Flowered Buttercup) and Ranunculus pensylvanicus (Bristly Buttercup), which can be found in wet woodlands as well. Small-Flowered Buttercup has lower leaves that are kidney-shaped and lack lobes, while the palmately cleft leaves of Bristly Buttercup have more narrow lobes. The latter species also blooms later in the year (during the summer) than Hooked Buttercup. Other similar buttercups have larger flowers (at least ½" across) or their fruits (seedheads) are more elongated (ovoid or oblongoid) in shape.
The upper stems terminate in loose clusters of flowers. Each flower is about 1/3" (8 mm.) across, consisting of 5-6 yellow petals, 5 light green sepals, a dense green cluster of pistils, and a ring of surrounding stamens with yellow anthers. The petals are oblong-elliptic and a little shorter than the sepals; the latter tend to hang downward while the flowers are blooming. The pedicels of the flowers are pubescent. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to early summer and lasts about 1 month. Both sepals and petals are deciduous and they soon fall to the ground. The pistils become transformed into a dense cluster of flat-sided achenes with slender hooked beaks; this fruit is globoid in shape. Eventually, the fruit changes in color from green to nearly black. Each achene is about 2-3 mm. long. The root system consists of a cluster of fibrous roots and occasional rhizomes. Sometimes, small clonal colonies of plants are produced.
Cultivation: The preference is light to medium shade, wet to moist conditions, and soil with abundant organic material.
Range & Habitat: The native Hooked Buttercup is widely distributed in Illinois, but it is found only occasional in most areas (see Distribution Map). Habitats include damp depressions in upland woodlands, floodplain woodlands, shaded areas along streams, bottoms of rocky ravines, areas along woodland paths, swamps, forested bogs, and shady seeps. This species prefers damp woodlands and shaded wetlands.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts primarily small bees. These include Cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), Halictid bees (Augochlorella spp., Lasioglossum spp.), and Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.). Among vertebrate animals, the Wood Duck, Ruffed Grouse, and Wild Turkey feed on the seeds and foliage of Ranunculus spp. (Buttercups) in woodlands. The Eastern Chipmunk also eats the seeds of these plants. Hoofed mammalian herbivores usually avoid the consumption of buttercups because the toxic foliage contains a blistering agent that can irritate the mouth and gastrointestinal tract.
Photographic Location: Along a stream at the bottom of a rocky ravine at The Portland Arch in west-central Indiana.
Comments: This buttercup has achenes with unusually long hooked beaks; this provides its fruit with a slightly spiny appearance. While its foliage is reasonably attractive, the flowers are not very showy. Other similar buttercups include Ranunculus abortivus (Small-Flowered Buttercup) and Ranunculus pensylvanicus (Bristly Buttercup), which can be found in wet woodlands as well. Small-Flowered Buttercup has lower leaves that are kidney-shaped and lack lobes, while the palmately cleft leaves of Bristly Buttercup have more narrow lobes. The latter species also blooms later in the year (during the summer) than Hooked Buttercup. Other similar buttercups have larger flowers (at least ½" across) or their fruits (seedheads) are more elongated (ovoid or oblongoid) in shape.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
The best time for cutting down asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is when the plant becomes dormant in fall. Asparagus produces new shoots in spring, which you can harvest as asparagus spears. These shoots develop and mature over the growing season, forming many-branched, feathery stems. The plant's top growth dies in fall, though the roots remain alive, ready to sprout again in spring. Growing 3 to 5 feet tall, asparagus grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8.
Why Cut Asparagus
Asparagus usually dies down naturally in fall, but cutting the asparagus stems at this time has its benefits. Rust and other diseases that affect asparagus overwinter on plant debris. Cutting down and removing asparagus stems when the plants are dormant helps prevent diseases from infecting new shoots the following year.
Old asparagus varieties include female, berry-producing plants, and some new, male varieties also sometimes include a few female plants. Berries that are left on an asparagus bed create problems with asparagus seedlings the following year.
Removing dead asparagus foliage also keeps the bed neat and tidy, and makes room for new shoots in spring.
When to Cut
Cut asparagus down after the stems have turned yellow, but before the berries fall. Asparagus stems often turn yellow after the first frost. When stems turn yellow and wither, they're no longer providing nutrients for the roots, and they can be removed. Cut down asparagus stems when they're completely yellow. Don't wait any longer, because berries on the plants will fall.
In warm climates, asparagus sometimes doesn't turn yellow but continues growing in late fall and winter. If the asparagus shoots don't turn yellow, stop watering the plants.
How to Cut
Cut asparagus stems with pruning shears. Starting at one end of the asparagus bed, hold an asparagus stem in one hand, and prune it 2 inches above the soil surface. Continue in the same way over the whole bed.
When you've finished, wipe the pruning shear blades with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol. Sterilizing pruning shears helps prevent diseases from spreading. You can put dead asparagus foliage on the compost pile.
After Care
After cutting asparagus stems, spread a thick organic mulch. Mulches add organic matter and nutrients to the soil and help control weeds, and also provide some protection from severe freezes. Removing the mulch in stages in spring can extend the asparagus harvesting season.
Spread a layer of leaves, compost, manure or other organic matter 4 to 6 inches deep over the asparagus bed. For a long harvest period, remove the mulch from one-half the bed in spring. The asparagus shoots will appear on the bare half of the bed first. When they appear, remove the mulch from the other one-half of the bed.
Why Cut Asparagus
Asparagus usually dies down naturally in fall, but cutting the asparagus stems at this time has its benefits. Rust and other diseases that affect asparagus overwinter on plant debris. Cutting down and removing asparagus stems when the plants are dormant helps prevent diseases from infecting new shoots the following year.
Old asparagus varieties include female, berry-producing plants, and some new, male varieties also sometimes include a few female plants. Berries that are left on an asparagus bed create problems with asparagus seedlings the following year.
Removing dead asparagus foliage also keeps the bed neat and tidy, and makes room for new shoots in spring.
When to Cut
Cut asparagus down after the stems have turned yellow, but before the berries fall. Asparagus stems often turn yellow after the first frost. When stems turn yellow and wither, they're no longer providing nutrients for the roots, and they can be removed. Cut down asparagus stems when they're completely yellow. Don't wait any longer, because berries on the plants will fall.
In warm climates, asparagus sometimes doesn't turn yellow but continues growing in late fall and winter. If the asparagus shoots don't turn yellow, stop watering the plants.
How to Cut
Cut asparagus stems with pruning shears. Starting at one end of the asparagus bed, hold an asparagus stem in one hand, and prune it 2 inches above the soil surface. Continue in the same way over the whole bed.
When you've finished, wipe the pruning shear blades with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol. Sterilizing pruning shears helps prevent diseases from spreading. You can put dead asparagus foliage on the compost pile.
After Care
After cutting asparagus stems, spread a thick organic mulch. Mulches add organic matter and nutrients to the soil and help control weeds, and also provide some protection from severe freezes. Removing the mulch in stages in spring can extend the asparagus harvesting season.
Spread a layer of leaves, compost, manure or other organic matter 4 to 6 inches deep over the asparagus bed. For a long harvest period, remove the mulch from one-half the bed in spring. The asparagus shoots will appear on the bare half of the bed first. When they appear, remove the mulch from the other one-half of the bed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
A summer squash, the zucchini grows well in most summer vegetable gardens. You only need one zucchini plant to produce fruit, as the plants grow separate male and female flowers on the same plant, which are usually pollinated by bees and other insects. You can also pollinate the flowers by hand if you are growing them in a greenhouse or other area where insect pollination isn't possible. Telling the difference between the male and female blooms ensures you pollinate the zucchini correctly for the maximum amount of fruit at harvest time.
Step 1
Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems.
Step 2
Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3
Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
Step 1
Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems.
Step 2
Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3
Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Because Pennsylvania includes three U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones and their subzones, the times for planting vegetables vary considerably from Philadelphia, which is in USDA zone 7a in the southeastern part of the state, to Bradford in USDA zone 5a in the northwest. The state's coldest areas, in USDA zone 5a, are mostly concentrated in Warren and McKean counties. Because the requirements for gardening in USDA zone 5a differ from those in USDA zone 5b regions, the two subzones are listed separately. Always adapt seedlings started indoors gradually to the cooler and brighter conditions outdoors before you transplant them into a garden.
Hardy Vegetables
Hardy vegetables include those that can survive frosts, such as cabbage (Brassica oleracea, Capitata Group), broccoli (Brassica oleracea, Cymosa Group) and brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea, Gemmifera Group). Start such plants indoors about 10 weeks before your location's last average annual spring frost date, and transplant them into the garden four weeks before that last frost date, when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The last frost is usually in mid- to late April for USDA zone 7, in early to mid-May for zone 6, in mid- to late May for zone 5b and in June for zone 5a.
Hardy root crops such as carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus), beet (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) and radish (Raphanus sativus) usually should be direct sown -- sown directly in the garden -- rather than started indoors. That rule also applies to peas (Pisum sativum) as well as vegetables grown from tubers or sets, such as potato (Solanum tuberosum) and onion (Allium cepa) plants.
Because the suggested planting times are based on more conservative, later last frost dates, you may be able to sow seeds and set out seedlings two weeks earlier in a mild year. If you are running late, you can continue to plant hardy vegetables until late May.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in mid-February; set outdoors or direct sow in late March.
USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in early March; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-April.
USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors or direct sow in late-April.
USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in early April; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-May.
Slow-Growing Tender Vegetables
Among the vegetables that grow slowly are tender vegetables, such as tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum), pepper (Capsicum annuum) and eggplant (Solanum melongena), which almost always are started early or purchased as transplants. Plan to sow them indoors two months before your area's last spring frost date and to transplant them into the garden just after that date. The soil temperature should be at least 60 F when pepper and eggplant seedlings are set out, but tomato seedlings tolerate 50 F soil.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in late February; set outdoors in late April.
USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors in mid-May.
USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in late March; set outdoors in late May.
USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in mid-April; set outdoors in mid-June.
Fast-Growing Tender Vegetables
Pre-sowing large-seeded vegetables is usually pointless because they grow rapidly when sown directly in a garden. Those vegetables include vining types such as varieties of melons (Cucumis melo) and squashes (Cucurbita spp.) and cucumber (Cucumis sativus), as well as beans (Phaseolus spp.) and sweet corn (Zea mays).
If you live in USDA zones 5b through 7, plant all of them except corn just after your last frost date, provided the soil temperature is at least 60 F. Corn can be started a little earlier, when the soil is 50 F. If you are in USDA zone 5a, then some of these vegetables may need to be sown indoors two to three weeks before the last spring frost; an option is to purchase them as transplants to extend a short growing season.
USDA zone 7: Direct-sow in late April.
USDA zone 6: Direct-sow in mid-May.
USDA zone 5b: Direct-sow in late May.
USDA zone 5a: Direct-sow in mid-June or pre-sow indoors in late May to set out in mid-June.
Fall Vegetables
Fast-maturing varieties of the same hardy vegetables that can be planted in spring also can be grown in fall. Sow them about two months before your area's first average annual fall frost, placing a board over rows of seeds that you sow in your garden to cool the soil. Remove that board as soon as the seeds begin to germinate, and mulch the seedlings with straw so they can continue to keep cool.
USDA zone 7: Sow in mid- to late August.
USDA zones 5b and 6: Sow in early to mid-August.
USDA zone 5a: Sow in early to late July.
Hardy Vegetables
Hardy vegetables include those that can survive frosts, such as cabbage (Brassica oleracea, Capitata Group), broccoli (Brassica oleracea, Cymosa Group) and brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea, Gemmifera Group). Start such plants indoors about 10 weeks before your location's last average annual spring frost date, and transplant them into the garden four weeks before that last frost date, when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The last frost is usually in mid- to late April for USDA zone 7, in early to mid-May for zone 6, in mid- to late May for zone 5b and in June for zone 5a.
Hardy root crops such as carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus), beet (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) and radish (Raphanus sativus) usually should be direct sown -- sown directly in the garden -- rather than started indoors. That rule also applies to peas (Pisum sativum) as well as vegetables grown from tubers or sets, such as potato (Solanum tuberosum) and onion (Allium cepa) plants.
Because the suggested planting times are based on more conservative, later last frost dates, you may be able to sow seeds and set out seedlings two weeks earlier in a mild year. If you are running late, you can continue to plant hardy vegetables until late May.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in mid-February; set outdoors or direct sow in late March.
USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in early March; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-April.
USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors or direct sow in late-April.
USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in early April; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-May.
Slow-Growing Tender Vegetables
Among the vegetables that grow slowly are tender vegetables, such as tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum), pepper (Capsicum annuum) and eggplant (Solanum melongena), which almost always are started early or purchased as transplants. Plan to sow them indoors two months before your area's last spring frost date and to transplant them into the garden just after that date. The soil temperature should be at least 60 F when pepper and eggplant seedlings are set out, but tomato seedlings tolerate 50 F soil.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in late February; set outdoors in late April.
USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors in mid-May.
USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in late March; set outdoors in late May.
USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in mid-April; set outdoors in mid-June.
Fast-Growing Tender Vegetables
Pre-sowing large-seeded vegetables is usually pointless because they grow rapidly when sown directly in a garden. Those vegetables include vining types such as varieties of melons (Cucumis melo) and squashes (Cucurbita spp.) and cucumber (Cucumis sativus), as well as beans (Phaseolus spp.) and sweet corn (Zea mays).
If you live in USDA zones 5b through 7, plant all of them except corn just after your last frost date, provided the soil temperature is at least 60 F. Corn can be started a little earlier, when the soil is 50 F. If you are in USDA zone 5a, then some of these vegetables may need to be sown indoors two to three weeks before the last spring frost; an option is to purchase them as transplants to extend a short growing season.
USDA zone 7: Direct-sow in late April.
USDA zone 6: Direct-sow in mid-May.
USDA zone 5b: Direct-sow in late May.
USDA zone 5a: Direct-sow in mid-June or pre-sow indoors in late May to set out in mid-June.
Fall Vegetables
Fast-maturing varieties of the same hardy vegetables that can be planted in spring also can be grown in fall. Sow them about two months before your area's first average annual fall frost, placing a board over rows of seeds that you sow in your garden to cool the soil. Remove that board as soon as the seeds begin to germinate, and mulch the seedlings with straw so they can continue to keep cool.
USDA zone 7: Sow in mid- to late August.
USDA zones 5b and 6: Sow in early to mid-August.
USDA zone 5a: Sow in early to late July.
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求助
kesia
2018年05月14日
Just wondering if anyone knows what this little potted plant is?
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meriunkat：a type of vine plant
meriunkat：Parthenocissus Tricuspidata
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月13日
Description: This herbaceous plant is a biennial or short-lived perennial. During the first year, several basal leaves are produced, but thereafter this plant bolts to produce flowering stalks about 4-8' tall. The central stem is light green, stout, terete with vertical ridges, more or less covered with spreading white hairs, and usually unbranched. The interior of the this stem is hollow. Widely spreading alternate leaves are located primarily along the lower half of the central stem, becoming smaller in size above. The lower to middle alternate leaves are ternately compound (divided into 3 leaflets); they are 8-20" long and similarly across in outline. The leaflets are 4-12" long and ovate or orbicular in outline; they are shallowly to moderately cleft into 3-5 lobes and coarsely toothed. The lobes of leaflets are ovate in shape; they have broad acute tips. The upper leaflet surface is grayish green, medium green, or yellowish green and rough-textured, while the lower leaflet surface is slightly more pale and hairy along the primary and secondary veins. The petioles of lower to middle leaves are 3-10" long, light green, hairy, and relatively stout (especially at the base). The petiole bases are partially enclosed by a pair of hairy membranous sheaths. These sheaths are light green, purplish green, or nearly white from abundant hairs. Upper leaves are usually simple, ternately lobed, and coarsely toothed; they are up to 4" long and similarly across. The lobes of upper leaves are lanceolate with acute tips. The upper leaves have petioles up to 2" long.
The central stem terminates in a compound umbel up to 8" across. Additional compound umbels are produced from the axils of upper leaves on long peduncles (flowering stalks); these axillary umbels are up to 6" across. The compound umbels are more or less flat-headed. Each compound umbel has 8-30 rays that terminate in umbellets; each umbellet has 8-30 flowers. The rays of the compound umbels are 2-5" long, light green, and pubescent; the pedicels of the flowers are ¼–¾" long, light green, and pubescent. Individual flowers span a little less than ¼" across. Each flower has a light green calyx that is shaped like a saucer, 5 white petals, 5 stamens, and a whitish ovary with a pair of tiny styles. The petals are strongly incurved at their tips. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer, lasting about 1 month. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by fruits (schizocarps); each fruit consists of a pair of seeds. Individual immature fruits are about 8 mm. (1/3") in length, 6 mm. (1/4") across, and somewhat flattened; they are elliptic-obovoid in shape, light green with white margins, and there are 4 vertical dark green veins toward the center of each flattened side. Mature fruits become tan to dark brown, and their lateral margins become flattened into wings; they are distributed to a limited extent by the wind before dividing into seeds. The root system consists of a taproot or a cluster of thick roots. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist conditions, and fertile soil containing loam, silty loam, or sandy loam. The size of individual plants can vary considerably. Some protection from strong wind is desirable. Because Cow Parsnip can irritate human skin, it is best to wear gloves while handling its foliage.
Range & Habitat: The native Cow Parsnip is occasional in central and northern Illinois, while in the southern section of the state it is uncommon (see Distribution Map). Habitats include bottomland woodlands, terraces of floodplain woodlands, borders of woodlands, woodland openings, meadows in wooded areas, riverside prairies, thickets, streambanks, and partially shaded roadsides. Cow Parsnip can be found in both high quality natural areas and disturbed habitats.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Cow Parsnip attract a large diversity of insects because of its easily accessed nectar and pollen. These floral visitors include honeybees, cuckoo bees (Nomada spp., Sphecodes spp.), plasterer bees (Colletes spp.), masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Andrenid bees, Halictid bees, Sphecid wasps, Vespid wasps, spider wasps (Anoplius spp., etc.), Tiphiid wasps, Ichneumonid wasps, dark-winged fungus gnats (Sciara spp.), soldier flies (Stratiomys spp., etc.), Syrphid flies, dance flies (Empis spp., Rhamphomyia spp.), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Ravinia spp., Sarcophaga spp., etc.), blow flies (Lucilia spp., etc.), Muscid flies, frit flies (Liohippelates spp., Olcella spp.), long-horned beetles (Strangalepta spp., Trigonarthris spp., etc.), tumbling flower beetles (Mordellidae), flower chafers (Trichiotinus spp., etc.), plant bugs (Miridae), and occasional butterflies (Robertson, 1929; Gosling, 1986). Some insects feed destructively on the foliage, fruit, and sap of cow parsnip. These insect feeders include the larvae of leaf-mining flies (Phytomyza spp., etc.), larvae of Euleia heraclei (Hogweed Picture-wing Fly), larvae of Depressaria pastinacella (Parsnip Webworm Moth), Orthops scutellatus (Carrot Plant Bug), Taeniothrips vulgatissima (Cow Parsnip Thrips), and such aphids as Aphis decepta, Cavariella aegopodii (Willow-Carrot Aphid), Cavariella pastinacae (Willow-Umbellifer Aphid), and Cavariella theobaldi (Willow-Parsnip Aphid); see Needham et al. (1928), Knight (1941), Stannard (1968), and Blackman & Eastop (2013). Some mammals feed on the flowers and foliage of Cow Parsnip, particularly in the western United States. There are records of bears, elk, deer, cattle, horses, and sheep feeding on this plant (Esser, 1995). However, when this plant is exposed to the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight, the foliage can become phytotoxic, causing blisters to form on the skin and possible irritation of the digestive tract (Georgia, 1913). This toxic side effect is the result of light-sensitive furanocoumarins. Cow Parsnip shares this characteristic with another species in the Carrot family, Pastinaca sativa (Parsnip).
Photographic Location: Border of a woodland along a road at Illinois Beach State Park in NE Illinois.
Comments: Because of the large size of its compound umbels, Cow Parsnip is one of the best sources of nectar and pollen for a wide variety of insects, especially small bees, wasps, flies, and beetles. This plant can be distinguished from other species in the Carrot family primarily by its large size (up to 8' tall or more), large ternately divided leaves, and hairy foliage. Other scientific names of Cow Parsnip include Heracleum lanatum and Heracleum sphondylium montanum. The latter scientific name, Heracleum sphondylium, refers to European Cow Parsnip. This plant species has compound leaves with 3-7 pinnately arranged leaflets, while the Cow Parsnip of North America, Heracleum maximum, has only 3 leaflets per compound leaf. Both plant species are about the same size. A third species that is native to Eurasia, but has naturalized in parts of North America, is Heracleum mantegazzianum, or Giant Hogweed. This is a much larger plant that becomes 6-18' tall at maturity. The compound leaves of Giant Hogweed are also larger in size than the preceding plant species in its genus; they are pinnate-pinnatifid or pinnate-bipinnatifid with narrowly acute lobes.
The central stem terminates in a compound umbel up to 8" across. Additional compound umbels are produced from the axils of upper leaves on long peduncles (flowering stalks); these axillary umbels are up to 6" across. The compound umbels are more or less flat-headed. Each compound umbel has 8-30 rays that terminate in umbellets; each umbellet has 8-30 flowers. The rays of the compound umbels are 2-5" long, light green, and pubescent; the pedicels of the flowers are ¼–¾" long, light green, and pubescent. Individual flowers span a little less than ¼" across. Each flower has a light green calyx that is shaped like a saucer, 5 white petals, 5 stamens, and a whitish ovary with a pair of tiny styles. The petals are strongly incurved at their tips. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer, lasting about 1 month. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by fruits (schizocarps); each fruit consists of a pair of seeds. Individual immature fruits are about 8 mm. (1/3") in length, 6 mm. (1/4") across, and somewhat flattened; they are elliptic-obovoid in shape, light green with white margins, and there are 4 vertical dark green veins toward the center of each flattened side. Mature fruits become tan to dark brown, and their lateral margins become flattened into wings; they are distributed to a limited extent by the wind before dividing into seeds. The root system consists of a taproot or a cluster of thick roots. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist conditions, and fertile soil containing loam, silty loam, or sandy loam. The size of individual plants can vary considerably. Some protection from strong wind is desirable. Because Cow Parsnip can irritate human skin, it is best to wear gloves while handling its foliage.
Range & Habitat: The native Cow Parsnip is occasional in central and northern Illinois, while in the southern section of the state it is uncommon (see Distribution Map). Habitats include bottomland woodlands, terraces of floodplain woodlands, borders of woodlands, woodland openings, meadows in wooded areas, riverside prairies, thickets, streambanks, and partially shaded roadsides. Cow Parsnip can be found in both high quality natural areas and disturbed habitats.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Cow Parsnip attract a large diversity of insects because of its easily accessed nectar and pollen. These floral visitors include honeybees, cuckoo bees (Nomada spp., Sphecodes spp.), plasterer bees (Colletes spp.), masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Andrenid bees, Halictid bees, Sphecid wasps, Vespid wasps, spider wasps (Anoplius spp., etc.), Tiphiid wasps, Ichneumonid wasps, dark-winged fungus gnats (Sciara spp.), soldier flies (Stratiomys spp., etc.), Syrphid flies, dance flies (Empis spp., Rhamphomyia spp.), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Ravinia spp., Sarcophaga spp., etc.), blow flies (Lucilia spp., etc.), Muscid flies, frit flies (Liohippelates spp., Olcella spp.), long-horned beetles (Strangalepta spp., Trigonarthris spp., etc.), tumbling flower beetles (Mordellidae), flower chafers (Trichiotinus spp., etc.), plant bugs (Miridae), and occasional butterflies (Robertson, 1929; Gosling, 1986). Some insects feed destructively on the foliage, fruit, and sap of cow parsnip. These insect feeders include the larvae of leaf-mining flies (Phytomyza spp., etc.), larvae of Euleia heraclei (Hogweed Picture-wing Fly), larvae of Depressaria pastinacella (Parsnip Webworm Moth), Orthops scutellatus (Carrot Plant Bug), Taeniothrips vulgatissima (Cow Parsnip Thrips), and such aphids as Aphis decepta, Cavariella aegopodii (Willow-Carrot Aphid), Cavariella pastinacae (Willow-Umbellifer Aphid), and Cavariella theobaldi (Willow-Parsnip Aphid); see Needham et al. (1928), Knight (1941), Stannard (1968), and Blackman & Eastop (2013). Some mammals feed on the flowers and foliage of Cow Parsnip, particularly in the western United States. There are records of bears, elk, deer, cattle, horses, and sheep feeding on this plant (Esser, 1995). However, when this plant is exposed to the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight, the foliage can become phytotoxic, causing blisters to form on the skin and possible irritation of the digestive tract (Georgia, 1913). This toxic side effect is the result of light-sensitive furanocoumarins. Cow Parsnip shares this characteristic with another species in the Carrot family, Pastinaca sativa (Parsnip).
Photographic Location: Border of a woodland along a road at Illinois Beach State Park in NE Illinois.
Comments: Because of the large size of its compound umbels, Cow Parsnip is one of the best sources of nectar and pollen for a wide variety of insects, especially small bees, wasps, flies, and beetles. This plant can be distinguished from other species in the Carrot family primarily by its large size (up to 8' tall or more), large ternately divided leaves, and hairy foliage. Other scientific names of Cow Parsnip include Heracleum lanatum and Heracleum sphondylium montanum. The latter scientific name, Heracleum sphondylium, refers to European Cow Parsnip. This plant species has compound leaves with 3-7 pinnately arranged leaflets, while the Cow Parsnip of North America, Heracleum maximum, has only 3 leaflets per compound leaf. Both plant species are about the same size. A third species that is native to Eurasia, but has naturalized in parts of North America, is Heracleum mantegazzianum, or Giant Hogweed. This is a much larger plant that becomes 6-18' tall at maturity. The compound leaves of Giant Hogweed are also larger in size than the preceding plant species in its genus; they are pinnate-pinnatifid or pinnate-bipinnatifid with narrowly acute lobes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月13日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is about 3-6" tall. It consists of a tuft of basal leaves that develops during the late spring and persists through the winter. These leaves are up to 3" long and across; they have slender petioles up to 6" long. Each leaf is palmately divided into 3 lobes; the lobes are oval-ovate and approximately the same size. The smooth upper surface of each leaf can be green, brownish green, reddish brown, or contain patches of the preceding colors; usually, the upper surface is more green during the summer, but become reddish brown during the winter. The leaf margins are smooth; for var. acuta, the tips of the lobes are rather pointed in mature leaves.
A mature plant will produce a tuft of flowers on long stalks during early to mid-spring, by which time the basal leaves that persisted during the winter may have withered away. Each flower occurs on a naked hairy stalk about 3-4" long; this stalk is often reddish green or reddish brown. The flower may be erect or it may nod on its stalk. Each flower is up to 1" across, consisting of 5-11 petal-like sepals, a green cluster of carpels in its center, and numerous white stamens surrounding the carpels. The sepals are white, pastel pink, or pastel blue; each sepal is oblong-oval in shape. At the base of each flower, there are 3 leafy bracts that are lanceolate, ovate, or oval in shape. These bracts are reddish green or reddish brown, hairy across the outer surface, and shorter than the sepals. The blooming period occurs during early to mid-spring and lasts about 2-3 weeks for a colony of plants; however, individual flowers are short-lived. The carpels turn brown and become beaked achenes that are often pubescent. The root system consists of a tuft of fibrous roots. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight during the spring and light shade during the summer. The basal leaves should be left undisturbed during the winter. The soil should be well-drained, loamy, and can contain some rocky material, including pieces of limestone; a thin-layer of decaying leaves is also beneficial.
Range & Habitat: The native Sharp-Lobed Hepatica is occasional in wooded areas of central and northern Illinois; it is uncommon or absent in southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland deciduous woodlands, rocky bluffs, the slopes of bluffs, and limestone cliffs (where some shade occurs). Sharp-Lobed Hepatica occurs in high quality wooded areas where the original flora is largely intact. Sometimes it is cultivated as a rock garden plant. While Sharp-Lobed Hepatica is native to North America, the typical variety of Hepatica, Hepatica nobilis nobilis, occurs in Eurasia.
Faunal Associations: Small bees collect pollen from the flowers, while Syrphid flies and other flies feed on the pollen. Bee visitors include honeybees, Small Carpenter bees, Andrenid bees, and Halictid bees. Nectar is not provided by the flowers. Chipmunks reportedly eat the achenes. The brownish green basal leaves are poisonous and somewhat camoflaged; it seems unlikely that they are eaten by mammalian herbivores to any significant extent.
Photographic Location: The photographs of the blue and white flowers were taken at Kickapoo State Park, Vermilion County, Illinois, while the photographs of the pink flowers and basal leaf were taken on a sloping bank of the Sangamon river in Allerton Park, Piatt County, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers of Sharp-Lobed Hepatica bloom earlier than most spring-blooming wildflowers of woodlands. They are delicately attractive and have a tendency to blow about on their slender stems in the wind. Another native variety of this plant species is Hepatica nobilis obtusa (Round-Lobed Hepatica), which has a very similar appearance, except that the lobes of its basal leaves are well-rounded rather than pointed. This latter variety is apparently restricted to NE Illinois. Sometimes these two varieties intergrade where their ranges overlap. Some authorities refer to Sharp-Lobed Hepatica as Hepatica acutiloba, while Round-Lobed Hepatica is referred to as Hepatica americana. Another common name for Hepatica is Liverleaf, which refers to the appearance and shape of the leaves.
A mature plant will produce a tuft of flowers on long stalks during early to mid-spring, by which time the basal leaves that persisted during the winter may have withered away. Each flower occurs on a naked hairy stalk about 3-4" long; this stalk is often reddish green or reddish brown. The flower may be erect or it may nod on its stalk. Each flower is up to 1" across, consisting of 5-11 petal-like sepals, a green cluster of carpels in its center, and numerous white stamens surrounding the carpels. The sepals are white, pastel pink, or pastel blue; each sepal is oblong-oval in shape. At the base of each flower, there are 3 leafy bracts that are lanceolate, ovate, or oval in shape. These bracts are reddish green or reddish brown, hairy across the outer surface, and shorter than the sepals. The blooming period occurs during early to mid-spring and lasts about 2-3 weeks for a colony of plants; however, individual flowers are short-lived. The carpels turn brown and become beaked achenes that are often pubescent. The root system consists of a tuft of fibrous roots. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight during the spring and light shade during the summer. The basal leaves should be left undisturbed during the winter. The soil should be well-drained, loamy, and can contain some rocky material, including pieces of limestone; a thin-layer of decaying leaves is also beneficial.
Range & Habitat: The native Sharp-Lobed Hepatica is occasional in wooded areas of central and northern Illinois; it is uncommon or absent in southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland deciduous woodlands, rocky bluffs, the slopes of bluffs, and limestone cliffs (where some shade occurs). Sharp-Lobed Hepatica occurs in high quality wooded areas where the original flora is largely intact. Sometimes it is cultivated as a rock garden plant. While Sharp-Lobed Hepatica is native to North America, the typical variety of Hepatica, Hepatica nobilis nobilis, occurs in Eurasia.
Faunal Associations: Small bees collect pollen from the flowers, while Syrphid flies and other flies feed on the pollen. Bee visitors include honeybees, Small Carpenter bees, Andrenid bees, and Halictid bees. Nectar is not provided by the flowers. Chipmunks reportedly eat the achenes. The brownish green basal leaves are poisonous and somewhat camoflaged; it seems unlikely that they are eaten by mammalian herbivores to any significant extent.
Photographic Location: The photographs of the blue and white flowers were taken at Kickapoo State Park, Vermilion County, Illinois, while the photographs of the pink flowers and basal leaf were taken on a sloping bank of the Sangamon river in Allerton Park, Piatt County, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers of Sharp-Lobed Hepatica bloom earlier than most spring-blooming wildflowers of woodlands. They are delicately attractive and have a tendency to blow about on their slender stems in the wind. Another native variety of this plant species is Hepatica nobilis obtusa (Round-Lobed Hepatica), which has a very similar appearance, except that the lobes of its basal leaves are well-rounded rather than pointed. This latter variety is apparently restricted to NE Illinois. Sometimes these two varieties intergrade where their ranges overlap. Some authorities refer to Sharp-Lobed Hepatica as Hepatica acutiloba, while Round-Lobed Hepatica is referred to as Hepatica americana. Another common name for Hepatica is Liverleaf, which refers to the appearance and shape of the leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月13日
Description: This biennial plant forms a rosette of leaves during the first year. During the second year, it becomes a rather lanky plant about 2-4' tall that branches occasionally. The stems have abundant white hairs; the lower central stem is often ribbed. The basal and lower leaves are up to 6" long and 3½" across; they are cordate-ovate or ovate with petioles up to 2" long. The upper leaves are lanceolate to elliptic and sessile, otherwise they are similar to the lower leaves. All leaves have smooth (entire) and slightly ciliate margins. The upper leaf surface is dark green and sparsely covered with short stiff hairs, while the lower leaf surface is medium green and more hairy, especially along the major veins. Both the lower and upper leaves alternate along the stems. The upper stems terminate in flowering racemes about 4-12" long; sometimes shorter racemes or individual flowers develop from the axils of the upper leaves. The stalks (peduncles) of these racemes are pubescent or hairy, and small leafy bracts may develop underneath some of the flowers. The pedicels of the flowers are pubescent or hairy and up to ¼" (6 mm.) in length.
Each flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 petals and a pubescent green calyx with 5 slender teeth. The petals are white and well-rounded; less often, they are light blue. The blooming period occurs during the summer, lasting about 2-3 months. Only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time and they are fairly inconspicuous. The flowers are replaced by prickly subgloboid fruits (about 4-6 mm. across) that hang downward from short slender pedicels (one fruit per flower). Hooked prickles densely cover the surfaces of these fruits. The fruits are initially whitish green, but later they later become brown. Each fruit contains 4 nutlets. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself; it occasionally forms colonies.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun to medium shade, mesic conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. However, this plant tolerates different kinds of soil and moisture conditions and it is quite adaptable.
Range & Habitat: The native Stickseed is common in central and northern Illinois, and locally common to absent in the southern section of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to slightly dry deciduous woodlands, woodland borders, powerline clearances in wooded areas, thickets, and shady fence rows. Stickseed prefers disturbed wooded areas and it is rather weedy. This plant sometimes occurs in wooded areas where there has been a recent fire, as well as degraded wooded areas that are subjected to occasional grazing by cattle.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.) and Syrphid flies, particularly Syritta pipiens. A flea beetle, Longitarsus melanurus, feeds on the leaves of Stickseed and other members of the Borage family. The bitter foliage is avoided by deer and other mammalian herbivores. When there is an overpopulation of deer in wooded areas, Stickseed often becomes more common. The bur-covered fruits can cling to the fur of mammals and clothing of humans; by this means, they are introduced into new areas.
Photographic Location: Edge of a wooded area at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is another woodland wildflower with small white flowers that blooms during the summer in shaded areas. The most distinctive characteristic of Stickseed (Hackelia virginiana) are the prickly fruits that hang downward from its slender racemes. Another species in the Borage family, European Stickseed (Lappula squarrosa), has similar racemes of prickly fruits. However, the prickles of its fruits are arranged in columns with spaces in-between. In contrast, the fruits of Stickseed are densely covered with prickles throughout. European Stickseed is shorter than Stickseed and its leaves are more slender. This introduced species prefers sunny areas, while the native Stickseed prefers wooded areas with some shade. An older scientific name for Stickseed is Lappula virginiana.
Each flower is about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 petals and a pubescent green calyx with 5 slender teeth. The petals are white and well-rounded; less often, they are light blue. The blooming period occurs during the summer, lasting about 2-3 months. Only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time and they are fairly inconspicuous. The flowers are replaced by prickly subgloboid fruits (about 4-6 mm. across) that hang downward from short slender pedicels (one fruit per flower). Hooked prickles densely cover the surfaces of these fruits. The fruits are initially whitish green, but later they later become brown. Each fruit contains 4 nutlets. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself; it occasionally forms colonies.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun to medium shade, mesic conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. However, this plant tolerates different kinds of soil and moisture conditions and it is quite adaptable.
Range & Habitat: The native Stickseed is common in central and northern Illinois, and locally common to absent in the southern section of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to slightly dry deciduous woodlands, woodland borders, powerline clearances in wooded areas, thickets, and shady fence rows. Stickseed prefers disturbed wooded areas and it is rather weedy. This plant sometimes occurs in wooded areas where there has been a recent fire, as well as degraded wooded areas that are subjected to occasional grazing by cattle.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.) and Syrphid flies, particularly Syritta pipiens. A flea beetle, Longitarsus melanurus, feeds on the leaves of Stickseed and other members of the Borage family. The bitter foliage is avoided by deer and other mammalian herbivores. When there is an overpopulation of deer in wooded areas, Stickseed often becomes more common. The bur-covered fruits can cling to the fur of mammals and clothing of humans; by this means, they are introduced into new areas.
Photographic Location: Edge of a wooded area at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is another woodland wildflower with small white flowers that blooms during the summer in shaded areas. The most distinctive characteristic of Stickseed (Hackelia virginiana) are the prickly fruits that hang downward from its slender racemes. Another species in the Borage family, European Stickseed (Lappula squarrosa), has similar racemes of prickly fruits. However, the prickles of its fruits are arranged in columns with spaces in-between. In contrast, the fruits of Stickseed are densely covered with prickles throughout. European Stickseed is shorter than Stickseed and its leaves are more slender. This introduced species prefers sunny areas, while the native Stickseed prefers wooded areas with some shade. An older scientific name for Stickseed is Lappula virginiana.
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