文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Grow your own salad at home with a backyard patch of lettuce (Lactuca sativa), which thrives throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. Since this vegetable is prized for its crisp, edible leaves, yellowing foliage can ruin your dreams of a homemade salad harvest. Lettuce may turn yellow for a few common reasons, each which has an organic, natural solution.
Not Enough Water
The lettuce plant has a very shallow root system, which makes it especially prone to drought stress. The plant requires consistently moist soil conditions at all times, without which it will wilt, turn yellow and eventually lose all of its leaves.
When watering lettuce, use enough irrigation to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Water the lettuce bed again as soon as the top inch of soil has dried out.
Extreme Soil Temperature Fluctuations
Since lettuce roots lie so close to the soil surface, the plant is more prone to temperature-induced stress that can result in wilting and yellowing of the lettuce leaves. Mulch creates a protective barrier on the soil surface that helps to shield the soil from the sun and keeps temperatures constant and cool.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch around the lettuce plants. Example mulching materials include:
Shredded leaves
Weed-free straw or hay
Fine bark chips
Compost
Additionally, mulch helps prevent weed growth and also conserves soil moisture, further enhancing the lettuce plant's health and appearance.
Poor Soil Nutrient Levels
As lettuce grows, it needs rich levels of soil nutrients to support optimal foliage development. Nutrient-depleted soil may result in lettuce plants that appear stunted with leaves that aren't fully developed or that have a pale, yellow-green hue. When given the right amount of fertilizer, lettuce leaves turn a dark green.
Before planting lettuce, set a nutritional foundation by spreading 1 1/2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 50 square feet of gardening space. A couple months after the lettuce has been planted, fertilize the garden again with 1/2 pound of 33-0-0 fertilizer for every 50 feet of lettuce row.
Pest Invasions
You are not the only thing that enjoys the taste of lettuce. Occasionally, lettuce beds may get attacked by a variety of soft-bodied pests, including aphids, leafhoppers and whiteflies. Left uncontrolled, pest infestations can reach such heavy numbers that they cause wilting, yellowing or loss of leaves. Some pests, such as the leafhopper, spread a disease called yellows disease that, true to its name, causes yellow leaves.
Dust lettuce plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth to protect it from leafhoppers and other leaf-eating pests. Repeat the diatomaceous earth application after any rainy days.
Alternatively, spray lettuce plants with a strong blast of water from a garden hose. This is often enough to dislodge and kill common pests like aphids and whiteflies, and regular spraying keeps pest populations at levels too low to cause a problem.
If all else fails, make your own homemade insecticide soap spray to kill aphids, leafhoppers and other soft-bodied pests.
Step 1
Place an entire garlic bulb and a small onion into a blender and blend on medium until a fine pulp is created.
Step 2
Add 1 teaspoon of powdered, dehydrated cayenne pepper.
Step 3
Add 1 quart of water.
Step 4
Mix thoroughly and allow to steep of an hour, but preferably overnight.
Step 5
Pour the liquid through a piece of cheesecloth into a plastic spray bottle.
Step 6
Add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap.
Step 7
Spray the soapy solution on affected lettuce plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant, including the undersides of leaves where aphids and other pests tend to congregate.
Step 8
Repeat once a week until pest activity subsides.
Not Enough Water
The lettuce plant has a very shallow root system, which makes it especially prone to drought stress. The plant requires consistently moist soil conditions at all times, without which it will wilt, turn yellow and eventually lose all of its leaves.
When watering lettuce, use enough irrigation to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Water the lettuce bed again as soon as the top inch of soil has dried out.
Extreme Soil Temperature Fluctuations
Since lettuce roots lie so close to the soil surface, the plant is more prone to temperature-induced stress that can result in wilting and yellowing of the lettuce leaves. Mulch creates a protective barrier on the soil surface that helps to shield the soil from the sun and keeps temperatures constant and cool.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch around the lettuce plants. Example mulching materials include:
Shredded leaves
Weed-free straw or hay
Fine bark chips
Compost
Additionally, mulch helps prevent weed growth and also conserves soil moisture, further enhancing the lettuce plant's health and appearance.
Poor Soil Nutrient Levels
As lettuce grows, it needs rich levels of soil nutrients to support optimal foliage development. Nutrient-depleted soil may result in lettuce plants that appear stunted with leaves that aren't fully developed or that have a pale, yellow-green hue. When given the right amount of fertilizer, lettuce leaves turn a dark green.
Before planting lettuce, set a nutritional foundation by spreading 1 1/2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 50 square feet of gardening space. A couple months after the lettuce has been planted, fertilize the garden again with 1/2 pound of 33-0-0 fertilizer for every 50 feet of lettuce row.
Pest Invasions
You are not the only thing that enjoys the taste of lettuce. Occasionally, lettuce beds may get attacked by a variety of soft-bodied pests, including aphids, leafhoppers and whiteflies. Left uncontrolled, pest infestations can reach such heavy numbers that they cause wilting, yellowing or loss of leaves. Some pests, such as the leafhopper, spread a disease called yellows disease that, true to its name, causes yellow leaves.
Dust lettuce plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth to protect it from leafhoppers and other leaf-eating pests. Repeat the diatomaceous earth application after any rainy days.
Alternatively, spray lettuce plants with a strong blast of water from a garden hose. This is often enough to dislodge and kill common pests like aphids and whiteflies, and regular spraying keeps pest populations at levels too low to cause a problem.
If all else fails, make your own homemade insecticide soap spray to kill aphids, leafhoppers and other soft-bodied pests.
Step 1
Place an entire garlic bulb and a small onion into a blender and blend on medium until a fine pulp is created.
Step 2
Add 1 teaspoon of powdered, dehydrated cayenne pepper.
Step 3
Add 1 quart of water.
Step 4
Mix thoroughly and allow to steep of an hour, but preferably overnight.
Step 5
Pour the liquid through a piece of cheesecloth into a plastic spray bottle.
Step 6
Add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap.
Step 7
Spray the soapy solution on affected lettuce plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant, including the undersides of leaves where aphids and other pests tend to congregate.
Step 8
Repeat once a week until pest activity subsides.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
While it's more common to have bumper crops of fast-growing zucchini (Cucurbita pepo), some factors can slow down the growth of your annual zucchini or make the plant produce small fruit. For most summer squash, like zucchini, small, young zucchini are more tender and flavorful, but if you want larger zucchini for stuffing, there are some things to do to ensure your zucchini grow well. Trimming the leaves is not one of those things.
Leave the Leaves Alone
The leaves are the food manufacturers for the plant. The large, abundant leaves on a zucchini plant provide shade and keep out weeds by blocking sunlight from reaching the soil and providing nourishment for the weeds. If you cut off the leaves, your zucchini loses its source of fuel, and may slow its growth. Don't bother your zucchini's leaves and look to other ways to improve growth.
Poor Pollination
The most common reason for tiny zucchini that drop off the plant is poor pollination. Bees may not be visiting your garden due to weather extremes or because you've used insecticides. If a lack of bees in your area are keeping your zucchini from growing to their full potential, you need to hand pollinate the plants. Pull off the male flowers. which have a long, thin, straight stem at the base, and touch the center of it to the centers of the female flowers that appear a day later and have a bulbous growth at their bases.
Fertilizer Fouls
Too much or too little fertilizer can cause your zucchini to not grow as large as you want. If you over-fertilize, the plant produces more leaves instead of concentrating its growth on the zucchini, but this does not mean that you need to remove those leaves. Because zucchini plants grow quickly, they are heavy feeders, which means if you don't give them enough fertilizer, their growth and the plant's yield can suffer. Both of these cases can be remedied by improving your fertilization techniques, quantities and method.
When you plant the zucchini, sprinkle 1 tablespoon per hill of a fertilizer that has more potassium and phosphorous in it than nitrogen, for instance a 6-10-10. One week after the blooms appear, apply 1 tablespoon of pure nitrogen fertilizer next to the plants, and repeat this side dressing three weeks later to ensure the proper amount of nitrogen in the soil as the zucchini are growing larger and require more nitrogen.
Watering Woes
Water stress may impact the size of your zucchini. This usually occurs when an exceptionally dry period is followed by heavy watering. Whether you just went out of town for a week and could not water your garden or if you forgot, these fluctuations in moisture can create small, misshapen fruit on the zucchini bush. Water your zucchinis weekly so the soil feels moist down 6 to 8 inches below the surface, but don't get water on the leaves, which can spread diseases. Drip irrigation is the best as it delivers water straight to where the zucchini needs it, and you can get under the leaves, which help to conserve moisture in the soil by blocking the sun from the soil, which is another reason to leave the leaves on the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月08日
Description: This herbaceous plant is a summer annual about 2-6' tall. It branches regularly from the central stem, while the side stems branch very little. These stems are somewhat pubescent and green to reddish green. The opposite leaves are up to 12" and 4" across, becoming smaller as they ascend the stems. The lower leaves are pinnately lobed, cleft, and coarsely toothed, while the upper leaves are lanceolate-oblong and smooth along the margins. The petioles of the leaves become progressively shorter toward the apex of the plant; the upper leaves are often sessile. Both lower and upper leaves are hairless, or nearly so.
The upper stems terminate in spike-like racemes of yellow flowers. These racemes vary ½–3' in length, depending on the size of the plant. Each flower is about ½" long, consisting of a yellow tubular corolla with 5 spreading lobes and a green calyx with 5 blunt teeth. The tubular corolla is rather short and broad; its throat is partially obstructed by an abundance of fine yellow hairs. The two upper lobes of the corolla fold backward, while the 3 lower lobes function as a landing pad for visiting insects. The blooming period is mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1½ months; only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is replaced by a seed capsule is globoid-ovoid; it eventually turns brown and contains several seeds. The root system consists of a taproot and secondary feeder roots. The feeder roots can attach themselves to the roots of oak trees; they suck moisture and possibly some nutrients from the host tree. Thus, Mullein Foxglove is partially parasitic. Reproduction is by seed.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a loam, clay-loam, or rocky soil. This plant benefits from the proximity of oak trees. Its size is highly variable, depending on growing conditions.
Range & Habitat: The native Mullein Foxglove occurs occasionally throughout most of Illinois; it is least common in the NW and south-central areas of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats include open rocky woodlands, oak savannas, paths through woodlands, thinly wooded bluffs, woodland borders, thickets, and rocky slopes along rivers. This species tolerates low to moderate levels of disturbance.
Faunal Associations: The most important pollinators of the flowers are bumblebees, which suck nectar and collect pollen. Other long-tongued bees also visit the flowers, including honeybees and Miner bees. Occasionally, butterflies and skippers suck nectar from the flowers, but they are ineffective pollinators. The caterpillars of the moth Rhodoecia aurantiago (Orange Sallow) bore into the seed capsules and feed on the seeds. It possible that the foliage is eaten by the caterpillars of the butterflies Junonia coenia (Buckeye) and Euphydryas phaeton ozarkae (Baltimore). The latter variety of the Baltimore is confined to southern Illinois. Both of these butterfly species are known to feed on the foliage of Aureolaria spp. (False Foxgloves), which are closely related to Mullein Foxglove.
Photographic Location: Along a path at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This annual plant can achieve an impressive size. It closely resembles several Aureolaria spp. (False Foxgloves), which are also parasitic on the roots of oaks. The flowers of Mullein Foxglove are a little shorter than the flowers of the latter species (which can exceed ¾" in length), and the throat of its flowers are partially obstructed by an abundance of fine hairs. The flowers of the False Foxgloves are quite open at the throat because they lack these hairs. Another scientific name for Mullein Foxglove is Seymeria macrophylla.
The upper stems terminate in spike-like racemes of yellow flowers. These racemes vary ½–3' in length, depending on the size of the plant. Each flower is about ½" long, consisting of a yellow tubular corolla with 5 spreading lobes and a green calyx with 5 blunt teeth. The tubular corolla is rather short and broad; its throat is partially obstructed by an abundance of fine yellow hairs. The two upper lobes of the corolla fold backward, while the 3 lower lobes function as a landing pad for visiting insects. The blooming period is mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1½ months; only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is replaced by a seed capsule is globoid-ovoid; it eventually turns brown and contains several seeds. The root system consists of a taproot and secondary feeder roots. The feeder roots can attach themselves to the roots of oak trees; they suck moisture and possibly some nutrients from the host tree. Thus, Mullein Foxglove is partially parasitic. Reproduction is by seed.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a loam, clay-loam, or rocky soil. This plant benefits from the proximity of oak trees. Its size is highly variable, depending on growing conditions.
Range & Habitat: The native Mullein Foxglove occurs occasionally throughout most of Illinois; it is least common in the NW and south-central areas of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats include open rocky woodlands, oak savannas, paths through woodlands, thinly wooded bluffs, woodland borders, thickets, and rocky slopes along rivers. This species tolerates low to moderate levels of disturbance.
Faunal Associations: The most important pollinators of the flowers are bumblebees, which suck nectar and collect pollen. Other long-tongued bees also visit the flowers, including honeybees and Miner bees. Occasionally, butterflies and skippers suck nectar from the flowers, but they are ineffective pollinators. The caterpillars of the moth Rhodoecia aurantiago (Orange Sallow) bore into the seed capsules and feed on the seeds. It possible that the foliage is eaten by the caterpillars of the butterflies Junonia coenia (Buckeye) and Euphydryas phaeton ozarkae (Baltimore). The latter variety of the Baltimore is confined to southern Illinois. Both of these butterfly species are known to feed on the foliage of Aureolaria spp. (False Foxgloves), which are closely related to Mullein Foxglove.
Photographic Location: Along a path at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This annual plant can achieve an impressive size. It closely resembles several Aureolaria spp. (False Foxgloves), which are also parasitic on the roots of oaks. The flowers of Mullein Foxglove are a little shorter than the flowers of the latter species (which can exceed ¾" in length), and the throat of its flowers are partially obstructed by an abundance of fine hairs. The flowers of the False Foxgloves are quite open at the throat because they lack these hairs. Another scientific name for Mullein Foxglove is Seymeria macrophylla.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月08日
Description: This perennial plant is a woody vine up to 20' long. Its stems can twine about fences and adjacent vegetation and they branch occasionally. These stems are initially green or dull red, but they eventually turn brown and woody. Young stems are sparsely pubescent, terete or angular, and they become somewhat enlarged at the petiole bases. The opposite leaves are primarily trifoliate, although some of them are simple. The petioles of these leaves (whether simple or compound) are up to 2" long; they are green or dull red and sparsely pubescent, like the stems. The leaflets and simple leaves are up to 4" long and 2" across; they are ovate, dentate or shallowly cleft along their margins, and mostly glabrous. However, the undersides of the leaves or leaflets are sometimes slightly pubescent, especially along the major veins. The upper surfaces of leaves and leaflets are yellowish green to dark green, while their lower surfaces are pale green with elevated major veins. The petiolules (basal stalklets) of the leaflets are similar to the petioles, except they are shorter. The petiolule of the terminal leaflet is longer than those of the lateral leaflets.
Occasionally, flat-headed panicles of white flowers are produced from the axils of the leaves. Each panicle can span several inches across. A single vine can produce all staminate flowers (male), all pistillate flowers (female), or all perfect flowers (both male & female). Regardless of gender, individual flowers are about ¾" across and they have 4 petaloid sepals that are white or cream-colored and oblong-elliptic in shape. Each staminate flower has abundant long stamens that have white filaments and pale yellow anthers. Each pistillate flower has a cluster of green carpels at its center; each carpel has a short curled style. In addition to the carpels, each pistillate flower has a circle of pseudo-stamens that are sterile. Each perfect flower has a cluster of green carpels at its center, which are surrounded by one or two rows of stamens. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late summer and lasts about a month. The staminate flowers quickly wither away, but each of the pistillate and perfect flowers develop a cluster of pubescent achenes with slender styles (up to 2" long) that are more or less hairy. These achenes and their persistent styles are initially green and silky in appearance, but they eventually turn brown. Each achene contains a single large seed. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a fertile soil that is loamy or silty. Full sun is also tolerated, although the leaves may turn yellowish green.
Range & Habitat: The native Virgin's Bower occurs occasionally throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is a little more common in northern and western Illinois than other areas of the state. Habitats include edges of woodlands, moist thickets, moist meadows in floodplain areas, banks of rivers, slopes of drainage ditches, low ground along railroads, and fence rows. Virgin's Bower can be found in both disturbed and natural areas. It is sometimes cultivated as an ornamental garden plant.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the staminate flowers attracts Halictid bees (including Sphecodes clematidis), wasps, and various kinds of flies. No information is available for pistillate flowers. Insects that feed destructively on Virgin's Bower and other Clematis spp. include larvae of Contarinia clematidis (Clematis Bud Gall Midge) and Prodiplosis floricola (Clematis Flower Midge), larvae of the leaf-mining fly Phytomyza loewii, caterpillars of Horisme intestinata (Brown Bark Carpet Moth), caterpillars of two moths, Thyris maculata (Spotted Thyris) and Thyris sepulchralis (Mournful Thyris), and Myzus varians (Peach Leaf-Roll Aphid). These vines are the summer hosts of this introduced aphid. The toxic foliage is avoided by mammalian herbivores. However, the foliage of Virgin's Bower can provide significant cover and nesting habitat for many songbirds.
Photographic Location: A moist thicket near a drainage canal in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers of Virgin's Bower are attractive and often abundantly produced; the staminate flowers are slightly more showy than the pistillate flowers. The achenes with their silky-hairy styles are also interesting because of their unusual appearance. The only other species that resembles Virgin's Bower in Illinois is Clematis terniflora (Autumn Clematis), which has been introduced from East Asia as an ornamental plant. Autumn Clematis is also a woody vine that produces masses of white or cream flowers. The flowers of this latter species, in my experience, are slightly larger (about 1" across) and more fragrant than those of Virgin's Bower; they also bloom later in the year. These two species can be easily distinguished by their foliage: The leaf- and leaflet-margins of Virgin's Bower are dentate or shallowly cleft, while those of Autumn Clematis are smooth (entire). While there are other native Clematis spp. within Illinois, their flowers have a completely different appearance.
Occasionally, flat-headed panicles of white flowers are produced from the axils of the leaves. Each panicle can span several inches across. A single vine can produce all staminate flowers (male), all pistillate flowers (female), or all perfect flowers (both male & female). Regardless of gender, individual flowers are about ¾" across and they have 4 petaloid sepals that are white or cream-colored and oblong-elliptic in shape. Each staminate flower has abundant long stamens that have white filaments and pale yellow anthers. Each pistillate flower has a cluster of green carpels at its center; each carpel has a short curled style. In addition to the carpels, each pistillate flower has a circle of pseudo-stamens that are sterile. Each perfect flower has a cluster of green carpels at its center, which are surrounded by one or two rows of stamens. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late summer and lasts about a month. The staminate flowers quickly wither away, but each of the pistillate and perfect flowers develop a cluster of pubescent achenes with slender styles (up to 2" long) that are more or less hairy. These achenes and their persistent styles are initially green and silky in appearance, but they eventually turn brown. Each achene contains a single large seed. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a fertile soil that is loamy or silty. Full sun is also tolerated, although the leaves may turn yellowish green.
Range & Habitat: The native Virgin's Bower occurs occasionally throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is a little more common in northern and western Illinois than other areas of the state. Habitats include edges of woodlands, moist thickets, moist meadows in floodplain areas, banks of rivers, slopes of drainage ditches, low ground along railroads, and fence rows. Virgin's Bower can be found in both disturbed and natural areas. It is sometimes cultivated as an ornamental garden plant.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the staminate flowers attracts Halictid bees (including Sphecodes clematidis), wasps, and various kinds of flies. No information is available for pistillate flowers. Insects that feed destructively on Virgin's Bower and other Clematis spp. include larvae of Contarinia clematidis (Clematis Bud Gall Midge) and Prodiplosis floricola (Clematis Flower Midge), larvae of the leaf-mining fly Phytomyza loewii, caterpillars of Horisme intestinata (Brown Bark Carpet Moth), caterpillars of two moths, Thyris maculata (Spotted Thyris) and Thyris sepulchralis (Mournful Thyris), and Myzus varians (Peach Leaf-Roll Aphid). These vines are the summer hosts of this introduced aphid. The toxic foliage is avoided by mammalian herbivores. However, the foliage of Virgin's Bower can provide significant cover and nesting habitat for many songbirds.
Photographic Location: A moist thicket near a drainage canal in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers of Virgin's Bower are attractive and often abundantly produced; the staminate flowers are slightly more showy than the pistillate flowers. The achenes with their silky-hairy styles are also interesting because of their unusual appearance. The only other species that resembles Virgin's Bower in Illinois is Clematis terniflora (Autumn Clematis), which has been introduced from East Asia as an ornamental plant. Autumn Clematis is also a woody vine that produces masses of white or cream flowers. The flowers of this latter species, in my experience, are slightly larger (about 1" across) and more fragrant than those of Virgin's Bower; they also bloom later in the year. These two species can be easily distinguished by their foliage: The leaf- and leaflet-margins of Virgin's Bower are dentate or shallowly cleft, while those of Autumn Clematis are smooth (entire). While there are other native Clematis spp. within Illinois, their flowers have a completely different appearance.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月07日
Description: This herbaceous plant is a summer annual up to 4' tall that usually branches abundantly. The lanky stems are erect, ascending, or sprawling (especially the latter if they become entangled with vines). In addition, the stems are light green, glabrous or sparingly white-mealy, and terete or somewhat angular; smaller stems are often finely striated (with many narrow ridges). The alternate leaves are up to 2½" long and 1/3" (8 mm.) across; the lower and middle leaves are narrowly lanceolate or lanceolate-oblong, while the upper leaves are linear-oblong or linear. The leaf margins are smooth or slightly undulate; some of the lower leaves may have 1 or 2 obtuse basal lobes. The upper surface of each leaf is medium to dark green and glabrous, while its lower surface has the same characteristics; however, some of the uppermost leaves may be slightly white-mealy on the lower surface. Each leaf has a prominent central vein, and some of the larger leaves may have a pair of lateral veins that are conspicuous. The slender petioles of the leaves are up to one-third the length of the blades.
The upper stems terminate in elongated panicles of flowers up to 6" long; these flowers are organized into tight clusters along the branches of each panicle. There are also non-terminal spikes of flowers that originate from the axils of the upper leaves. The branches of each inflorescence are more or less white-mealy. Each flower is up to 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 sepals, 5 stamens, no petals, and a pair of short styles above the ovary. The sepals are green, yellowish green, or purplish green, and more or less white-mealy. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall and can last 1-2 months for a colony of plants. The flowers are cross-pollinated by the wind; in the absence of cross-pollination, they are self-pollinating. Afterward, each flower is replaced a single small seed about 1 mm. across; the persistent sepals barely cover the upper sides of this seed. Each seed is flattened and round; it is covered by a thin papery membrane that is easy to remove. Once this membrane is removed, the surface of the seed is smooth, shiny, and black. The root system consists of a branching taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun or dappled sunlight, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and soil that contains loam, clay-loam, or stony material. The size and growth habit of this plant is variable, depending on environmental conditions.
Range & Habitat: The native Woodland Goosefoot occurs occasionally throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map). However, populations of this species may be declining. Habitats include open woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, rocky bluffs, and partially shaded roadsides. Disturbance that reduces the overhead tree canopy probably benefits populations of this plant in wooded areas.
Faunal Associations: Caterpillars of the skippers Pholisora catullus (Common Sootywing) and Staphylus hayhurstii (Hayhurst's Scallopwing) feed on the foliage of Chenopodium spp. (goosefoot species), as do the caterpillars of the moths Amyna octo (Eight-Spot), Blepharomastix ranalis (Hollow-spotted Snout Moth), Emmelina monodactyla (Common Plume Moth), and Grammia virgo (Virgin Tiger Moth). Other insects that feed on Chenopodium spp. (goosefoot species) include Chaetocnema concinna (Brassy Flea Beetle), Disonycha triangularis (Three-spotted Flea Beetle), Erynephala puncticollis (Beet Leaf Beetle), maggots of Pegomya hyosyami (Spinach Leafminer), Hayhurstia atriplicis (Chenopodium Aphid), and Pemphigus populivenae (Sugar Beet Root Aphid). Some gamebirds and many granivorous songbirds eat the seeds of goosefoots (see the Bird Table for a listing of these species). Livestock (e.g., pigs & sheep) eat the foliage of goosefoot species; young plants are occasionally eaten by rabbits.
Photographic Location: A thicket near a little-used railroad in Urbana, Illinois. To some extent, neighboring vines smothered this plant and caused its stems to sprawl.
Comments: Woodland Goosefoot is one of the few Chenopodium spp. (goosefoot species) that is native to Illinois. This plant is rather weedy in appearance, but it shouldn't be destroyed unnecessarily. In general, the different species of Goosefoots are difficult to distinguish from each other. Woodland Goosefoot differs from the others by the following combination of characteristics: 1) It has narrow lanceolate-oblong leaves, 2) the lower surface of its leaves is usually as dark and glabrous as the upper surface, and 3) the thin papery membranes covering its seeds are easy to remove. Other goosefoots have wider leaves, and/or the lower surface of their leaves is more pale and white-mealy, and/or the thin papery membranes covering their seeds are persistent and difficult to remove. Other goosefoots with narrow leaves (e.g., Chenopodium lanceolatum, Chenopodium dessicatum, and Chenopodium pratericola) usually occur in sunnier habitats than Woodland Goosefoot. However, the lower surface of their leaves is conspicuously white-mealy. Detailed descriptions and illustrations of the various goosefoots in Illinois can be found in Mohlenbrock (2001).
The upper stems terminate in elongated panicles of flowers up to 6" long; these flowers are organized into tight clusters along the branches of each panicle. There are also non-terminal spikes of flowers that originate from the axils of the upper leaves. The branches of each inflorescence are more or less white-mealy. Each flower is up to 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 5 sepals, 5 stamens, no petals, and a pair of short styles above the ovary. The sepals are green, yellowish green, or purplish green, and more or less white-mealy. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall and can last 1-2 months for a colony of plants. The flowers are cross-pollinated by the wind; in the absence of cross-pollination, they are self-pollinating. Afterward, each flower is replaced a single small seed about 1 mm. across; the persistent sepals barely cover the upper sides of this seed. Each seed is flattened and round; it is covered by a thin papery membrane that is easy to remove. Once this membrane is removed, the surface of the seed is smooth, shiny, and black. The root system consists of a branching taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun or dappled sunlight, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and soil that contains loam, clay-loam, or stony material. The size and growth habit of this plant is variable, depending on environmental conditions.
Range & Habitat: The native Woodland Goosefoot occurs occasionally throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map). However, populations of this species may be declining. Habitats include open woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, rocky bluffs, and partially shaded roadsides. Disturbance that reduces the overhead tree canopy probably benefits populations of this plant in wooded areas.
Faunal Associations: Caterpillars of the skippers Pholisora catullus (Common Sootywing) and Staphylus hayhurstii (Hayhurst's Scallopwing) feed on the foliage of Chenopodium spp. (goosefoot species), as do the caterpillars of the moths Amyna octo (Eight-Spot), Blepharomastix ranalis (Hollow-spotted Snout Moth), Emmelina monodactyla (Common Plume Moth), and Grammia virgo (Virgin Tiger Moth). Other insects that feed on Chenopodium spp. (goosefoot species) include Chaetocnema concinna (Brassy Flea Beetle), Disonycha triangularis (Three-spotted Flea Beetle), Erynephala puncticollis (Beet Leaf Beetle), maggots of Pegomya hyosyami (Spinach Leafminer), Hayhurstia atriplicis (Chenopodium Aphid), and Pemphigus populivenae (Sugar Beet Root Aphid). Some gamebirds and many granivorous songbirds eat the seeds of goosefoots (see the Bird Table for a listing of these species). Livestock (e.g., pigs & sheep) eat the foliage of goosefoot species; young plants are occasionally eaten by rabbits.
Photographic Location: A thicket near a little-used railroad in Urbana, Illinois. To some extent, neighboring vines smothered this plant and caused its stems to sprawl.
Comments: Woodland Goosefoot is one of the few Chenopodium spp. (goosefoot species) that is native to Illinois. This plant is rather weedy in appearance, but it shouldn't be destroyed unnecessarily. In general, the different species of Goosefoots are difficult to distinguish from each other. Woodland Goosefoot differs from the others by the following combination of characteristics: 1) It has narrow lanceolate-oblong leaves, 2) the lower surface of its leaves is usually as dark and glabrous as the upper surface, and 3) the thin papery membranes covering its seeds are easy to remove. Other goosefoots have wider leaves, and/or the lower surface of their leaves is more pale and white-mealy, and/or the thin papery membranes covering their seeds are persistent and difficult to remove. Other goosefoots with narrow leaves (e.g., Chenopodium lanceolatum, Chenopodium dessicatum, and Chenopodium pratericola) usually occur in sunnier habitats than Woodland Goosefoot. However, the lower surface of their leaves is conspicuously white-mealy. Detailed descriptions and illustrations of the various goosefoots in Illinois can be found in Mohlenbrock (2001).
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月07日
Description: This plant is a winter or spring annual about ½–1½' tall. Several branching stems develop from the base of the plant; they often sprawl across the ground or lean on adjacent vegetation for support. The stems are light green to purplish green, more or less hairy, and shiny; the hairs occur in lines along the stems or in tufts where the stems branch. The blades of the alternate leaves are up to 4" long and 2" across; they are medium green, hairless to mostly hairless, double-pinnate, and triangular-lanceolate in shape. The pinnatifid leaflets are shallowly to deeply cleft and their tips are obtuse. The petioles of the lower leaves are about as long as the blades, while the upper leaves have short petioles or they are nearly sessile. A membranous sheath wraps around the base of each petiole.
The upper stems terminate in compound umbels of small white flowers. The typical compound umbel has about 3 umbellets, and each umbellet has 3-7 flowers; the divergent stalks of the umbels and umbellets are green and glabrous. The flowers often bloom before the compound umbels have fully expanded. Each flower is less than 1/8" across; it has 5 white petals, 5 stamens, a divided style, insignificant sepals, and a cylindrical green ovary. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to early summer. Upon reaching maturity, each flower is replaced by a single-seeded fruit. The fruits are about ¼" long, narrowly oblongoid-ellipsoid, and broadest toward the middle; usually the fruits are glabrous, although less often they are finely pubescent. Each fruit has a few longitudinal ridges that are broad and flat; these ridges are separated by narrow grooves. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. This species is somewhat weedy.
Range & Habitat: The native Wild Chervil is common in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map). Typical habitats include lowland woodlands, open woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, rocky glades, areas adjacent to buildings, and areas along roads and railroads. Habitats with a history of disturbance and some shade are preferred.Immature Fruits
Faunal Associations: The flowers are occasionally visited by small bees (especially Halictid bees), parasitic wasps, flies (especially Syrphid flies), and beetles. These insects usually suck nectar from the flowers, although some bees also collect pollen. The caterpillars of the butterfly Papilio polyxenes asterias (Black Swallowtail) feed on the foliage.
Photographic Location: Along a building on the campus of the University of Illinois in Urbana, Illinois. The photographed plant is the typical variety, Chaerophyllum procumbens procumbens.
Comments: The foliage of this native wildflower is similar to cultivated species of parsley and chervil. Cultivated Parsley is a biennial that doesn't naturalize in Illinois because its rosettes are unable to survive the cold weather of winter. However, Anthriscus cerefolium (Cultivated Chervil) and Anthriscus sylvestris (Bur Chervil) occasionally naturalize in Illinois (especially the latter species). Unlike Wild Chervil, both Cultivated and Bur Chervil lack bractlets underneath their umbellets. The species Chaerophyllum tainturieri (Southern Wild Chervil), which occurs in southern Illinois, is even more similar to Wild Chervil than the preceding species. The single-seeded fruits of Southern Wild Chervil are broadest below the middle and the pedicels of its flowers/fruits have a wider diameter toward the top than the bottom. In contrast, the single-seeded fruits of Wild Chervil are broadest toward the middle and the pedicels of its flowers/fruits have the same diameter throughout. Two varieties of Wild Chervil have been described: the typical variety, Chaerophyllum procumbens procumbens, has glabrous fruits, while Chaerophyllum procumbens shortii has fruits that are finely pubescent. This latter variety is less common in Illinois than the typical variety.
The upper stems terminate in compound umbels of small white flowers. The typical compound umbel has about 3 umbellets, and each umbellet has 3-7 flowers; the divergent stalks of the umbels and umbellets are green and glabrous. The flowers often bloom before the compound umbels have fully expanded. Each flower is less than 1/8" across; it has 5 white petals, 5 stamens, a divided style, insignificant sepals, and a cylindrical green ovary. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to early summer. Upon reaching maturity, each flower is replaced by a single-seeded fruit. The fruits are about ¼" long, narrowly oblongoid-ellipsoid, and broadest toward the middle; usually the fruits are glabrous, although less often they are finely pubescent. Each fruit has a few longitudinal ridges that are broad and flat; these ridges are separated by narrow grooves. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. This species is somewhat weedy.
Range & Habitat: The native Wild Chervil is common in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map). Typical habitats include lowland woodlands, open woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, rocky glades, areas adjacent to buildings, and areas along roads and railroads. Habitats with a history of disturbance and some shade are preferred.Immature Fruits
Faunal Associations: The flowers are occasionally visited by small bees (especially Halictid bees), parasitic wasps, flies (especially Syrphid flies), and beetles. These insects usually suck nectar from the flowers, although some bees also collect pollen. The caterpillars of the butterfly Papilio polyxenes asterias (Black Swallowtail) feed on the foliage.
Photographic Location: Along a building on the campus of the University of Illinois in Urbana, Illinois. The photographed plant is the typical variety, Chaerophyllum procumbens procumbens.
Comments: The foliage of this native wildflower is similar to cultivated species of parsley and chervil. Cultivated Parsley is a biennial that doesn't naturalize in Illinois because its rosettes are unable to survive the cold weather of winter. However, Anthriscus cerefolium (Cultivated Chervil) and Anthriscus sylvestris (Bur Chervil) occasionally naturalize in Illinois (especially the latter species). Unlike Wild Chervil, both Cultivated and Bur Chervil lack bractlets underneath their umbellets. The species Chaerophyllum tainturieri (Southern Wild Chervil), which occurs in southern Illinois, is even more similar to Wild Chervil than the preceding species. The single-seeded fruits of Southern Wild Chervil are broadest below the middle and the pedicels of its flowers/fruits have a wider diameter toward the top than the bottom. In contrast, the single-seeded fruits of Wild Chervil are broadest toward the middle and the pedicels of its flowers/fruits have the same diameter throughout. Two varieties of Wild Chervil have been described: the typical variety, Chaerophyllum procumbens procumbens, has glabrous fruits, while Chaerophyllum procumbens shortii has fruits that are finely pubescent. This latter variety is less common in Illinois than the typical variety.
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求助
Nishu Priya
2018年03月07日
Can't identify this plant. Help?
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爱峰：I guess this is the Large flowered purslane.
Citibear23
2018年03月06日
Id of this plant ?
Thank you .
Thank you .
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Citibear23：@meriunkat thank you
meriunkat：Some kind of kalanchoe perhaps
文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
There are several reasons for growing a bean plant in a cup. This method is commonly used to demonstrate the growing process in classroom settings because the plants germinate and sprout quickly, while requiring very little care. Some gardeners use this method as a way to begin growing plants before outdoor growing conditions are favorable. Whatever the reason, there are a few guidelines to follow in order to produce a healthy bean plant.
Step 1
Obtain seeds for the type of bean plant you would like to grow from a local seed supplier. Dried beans from a grocery store can also be used, although these may not germinate properly because they have been processed to be eaten, rather than to be grown.
Step 2
Fill an 8-oz. Styrofoam cup to the top with soil. Make sure not to pack the soil down into the cup.
Step 3
Create a hole in the soil at the center of the cup by pressing one finger into the soil to a depth of 1 inch.
Step 4
Place the bean in the bottom of the hole. Fill in the hole with soil and lightly compress the soil so that it is no longer loose. Do not compress the soil too much, or the roots and other growing parts will be hindered as they try to grow through the soil.
Step 5
Water the seed gently by sprinkling enough water on the soil to moisten it. Beans grow best in soil that is moist, rather than wet.
Step 6
Place the cup in a location that will receive sunlight for at least six to eight hours a day and water as needed for the soil to stay moist.
Step 1
Obtain seeds for the type of bean plant you would like to grow from a local seed supplier. Dried beans from a grocery store can also be used, although these may not germinate properly because they have been processed to be eaten, rather than to be grown.
Step 2
Fill an 8-oz. Styrofoam cup to the top with soil. Make sure not to pack the soil down into the cup.
Step 3
Create a hole in the soil at the center of the cup by pressing one finger into the soil to a depth of 1 inch.
Step 4
Place the bean in the bottom of the hole. Fill in the hole with soil and lightly compress the soil so that it is no longer loose. Do not compress the soil too much, or the roots and other growing parts will be hindered as they try to grow through the soil.
Step 5
Water the seed gently by sprinkling enough water on the soil to moisten it. Beans grow best in soil that is moist, rather than wet.
Step 6
Place the cup in a location that will receive sunlight for at least six to eight hours a day and water as needed for the soil to stay moist.
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