文章
ritau
2020年01月08日
The main sources of indoor air pollution include carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, nitric oxide, sulfur dioxide, formaldehyde, benzene, helium, PAHs and organic vapor. Air pollution sources mainly come from building material, decoration material, furniture, cigarette smoke, etc.
The purification effect of green plants is to make use of the continuous effect of plants on pollutants, and finally achieve the purpose of dynamically reducing pollutants.
Aloe, clivia, chlorophytum, ivy, chrysanthemum, pomegranate...these plants all have strong ability to absorb formaldehyde and benzene series produced in the interior after decoration. Camellia, daisy, marigold etc. can effectively decompose the unpleasant smell in the indoor environment.
Through photosynthesis, green plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. This unique function makes green plants an important source of oxygen in relatively closed indoor spaces. Especially plants such as bromeliads and cacti can also release oxygen at night.
According to research, green plants occupy 25% of the human field of vision can eliminate the physical fatigue of the eyes, which is also good for people to regulate physiology and mental state.
The purification effect of green plants is to make use of the continuous effect of plants on pollutants, and finally achieve the purpose of dynamically reducing pollutants.
Aloe, clivia, chlorophytum, ivy, chrysanthemum, pomegranate...these plants all have strong ability to absorb formaldehyde and benzene series produced in the interior after decoration. Camellia, daisy, marigold etc. can effectively decompose the unpleasant smell in the indoor environment.
Through photosynthesis, green plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. This unique function makes green plants an important source of oxygen in relatively closed indoor spaces. Especially plants such as bromeliads and cacti can also release oxygen at night.
According to research, green plants occupy 25% of the human field of vision can eliminate the physical fatigue of the eyes, which is also good for people to regulate physiology and mental state.
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成长记
kensong
2018年12月16日
I just realised that Lithops need to be hydrated or it will wrinklw amd shrink. Don't wait until it wrinkle to water. And they need soil with more organic mix than succulents.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月15日
The sour flavor experienced with some foods is due to citric acid. It can be found in many fruits and vegetables, especially citrus fruits such as lemons and oranges.
Definition
Citric acid is an organic, crystalline acid that exists in a variety of fruits and vegetables. It is colorless and is derived by fermentation of carbohydrates.
Vegetables
Citric acid can be found in beans, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes. The acidity in foods can be measured in "pH" levels. The lower the pH level, the more acid is in the food. Tomatoes are high in citric acid and measure between 4.30 and 4.90 in pH level. Broccoli measures between 6.30 and 6.52 in pH level.
Preservatives
Food manufacturers add citric acid to jams, canned fruits and vegetables. Citric acid is also added to soft drinks for the sour taste.
Natural Cleansers
Many environmentally friendly products use citric acid as their cleaning agent. Citric acid can also be used for odor control.
Absorption
A person usually consumes about 500 mg citric acid per day. This is about the same as 2 ounces of orange juice. Citric acid is absorbed through the digestive tract and eliminated by the kidneys.
Definition
Citric acid is an organic, crystalline acid that exists in a variety of fruits and vegetables. It is colorless and is derived by fermentation of carbohydrates.
Vegetables
Citric acid can be found in beans, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes. The acidity in foods can be measured in "pH" levels. The lower the pH level, the more acid is in the food. Tomatoes are high in citric acid and measure between 4.30 and 4.90 in pH level. Broccoli measures between 6.30 and 6.52 in pH level.
Preservatives
Food manufacturers add citric acid to jams, canned fruits and vegetables. Citric acid is also added to soft drinks for the sour taste.
Natural Cleansers
Many environmentally friendly products use citric acid as their cleaning agent. Citric acid can also be used for odor control.
Absorption
A person usually consumes about 500 mg citric acid per day. This is about the same as 2 ounces of orange juice. Citric acid is absorbed through the digestive tract and eliminated by the kidneys.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月15日
Before you start a garden in Arizona, remember that your soil is mostly sand. Because sand has almost no nutrients, it will have to be amended with decaying organic matter. Compost is the answer to most of your soil problems in Arizona. Digging in or adding 2 inches of compost on top of the soil will result in more water in the soil and less watering, another highly important element to consider in desert gardening. Grow veggies in raised beds or containers for greater control over soil quality and wind protection.
Hot and Sweet Peppers
Peppers prefer the cooler seasons in Arizona, spring and fall. Plant them in early March from nursery stock (if you can find it) or sprout seeds indoors in the winter to transplant in early March. Or, continue to grow them in containers. Feed peppers plenty of food—water-soluble fertilizer or organic compost—because they are hungry plants.
Eggplant
Eggplant, according to Phoenix Tropicals, grows very well in Arizona, but it is a heavy feeder and needs a lot of water. Grow eggplant in a raised bed to take advantage of the shade that foliage provides for the soil. This will help your soil conserve water. Plant eggplant in March, so its growing season is long enough to avoid winter's killing frosts.
Melons
Melons do well in the Arizona heat but they are also a favorite of whiteflies, which descend en masse in early June. If they survive the onslaught, they will be delicious. Plant them as early as possible in spring to get as much growth as possible before the flies descend.
Herbs
Rosemary, oregano and dill are extremely easy to grow in desert conditions. Rosemary requires very little water and loves the sun. Grow it in pots or as a bushy groundcover as part of the landscape. Phoenix Tropicals categorizes dill as a weed in Arizona: It will grow everywhere, even if you aren't all that interested in it. Oregano needs some light shade and weekly watering to thrive. Of course, many herbs will grow very well indoors in pots, on the windowsill or in a sunny room.
Tomatoes
While tomatoes are everyone's favorite, they are also the favorite of nearly every garden pest that exists in Arizona. The irony is that Arizona is the tomato-production capital of the United States, but almost all of those tomatoes are grown hydroponically; lack of soil eliminates pests. If you can grow them in containers, the risk of insect infestation and disease is greatly reduced. Remember, any plant grown for its fruit requires at least five hours of sun each day. The Maricopa County Extension Office recommends the addition of reflective material around container plants: aluminum foil, white-painted surfaces or marble chips.
Hot and Sweet Peppers
Peppers prefer the cooler seasons in Arizona, spring and fall. Plant them in early March from nursery stock (if you can find it) or sprout seeds indoors in the winter to transplant in early March. Or, continue to grow them in containers. Feed peppers plenty of food—water-soluble fertilizer or organic compost—because they are hungry plants.
Eggplant
Eggplant, according to Phoenix Tropicals, grows very well in Arizona, but it is a heavy feeder and needs a lot of water. Grow eggplant in a raised bed to take advantage of the shade that foliage provides for the soil. This will help your soil conserve water. Plant eggplant in March, so its growing season is long enough to avoid winter's killing frosts.
Melons
Melons do well in the Arizona heat but they are also a favorite of whiteflies, which descend en masse in early June. If they survive the onslaught, they will be delicious. Plant them as early as possible in spring to get as much growth as possible before the flies descend.
Herbs
Rosemary, oregano and dill are extremely easy to grow in desert conditions. Rosemary requires very little water and loves the sun. Grow it in pots or as a bushy groundcover as part of the landscape. Phoenix Tropicals categorizes dill as a weed in Arizona: It will grow everywhere, even if you aren't all that interested in it. Oregano needs some light shade and weekly watering to thrive. Of course, many herbs will grow very well indoors in pots, on the windowsill or in a sunny room.
Tomatoes
While tomatoes are everyone's favorite, they are also the favorite of nearly every garden pest that exists in Arizona. The irony is that Arizona is the tomato-production capital of the United States, but almost all of those tomatoes are grown hydroponically; lack of soil eliminates pests. If you can grow them in containers, the risk of insect infestation and disease is greatly reduced. Remember, any plant grown for its fruit requires at least five hours of sun each day. The Maricopa County Extension Office recommends the addition of reflective material around container plants: aluminum foil, white-painted surfaces or marble chips.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Shallots, the mild-tasting onions favored by the French, can be expensive to buy at the grocery store but grow easily in a home garden. If you can grow onions, you can grow shallots. All you need is well-drained soil, rich in organic matter, plenty of moisture and a few shallot sets from the grocery store. Shallots mature over the course of one summer, producing a set of small onions, rather than one large onion. Harvest them for use in sauces or savory dishes but save a few to plant for the following spring.
Step 1
Buy French shallots from the grocery store. Look for shallots that have firm, dry skins and are heavy in size. Avoid those with soft or sunken spots. Make sure you are buying true French shallots, rather than multiplier onions, which do not taste like shallots.
Step 2
Pull apart the shallot clusters to form individual bulbs. Some vendors sell individual shallots, rather than clusters, eliminating this step.
Step 3
Spread 3 inches of compost over the garden area. Dig it into a depth of 8 inches with a shovel. Plant shallots in early spring as soon as the soil is soft enough to work. Plant them 2 inches deep, with the pointed end up, and 6 inches apart.
Step 4
Water the soil frequently to keep it evenly moist but not soggy. Pull weeds by hand early because shallots don't compete well with them. A weedy garden bed diminishes yields.
Step 5
Harvest shallots in the fall when the leaves have died back. Dig them up, brush off the earth and allow them to cure in a dry location for several days. Store them in mesh bags or baskets.
Step 1
Buy French shallots from the grocery store. Look for shallots that have firm, dry skins and are heavy in size. Avoid those with soft or sunken spots. Make sure you are buying true French shallots, rather than multiplier onions, which do not taste like shallots.
Step 2
Pull apart the shallot clusters to form individual bulbs. Some vendors sell individual shallots, rather than clusters, eliminating this step.
Step 3
Spread 3 inches of compost over the garden area. Dig it into a depth of 8 inches with a shovel. Plant shallots in early spring as soon as the soil is soft enough to work. Plant them 2 inches deep, with the pointed end up, and 6 inches apart.
Step 4
Water the soil frequently to keep it evenly moist but not soggy. Pull weeds by hand early because shallots don't compete well with them. A weedy garden bed diminishes yields.
Step 5
Harvest shallots in the fall when the leaves have died back. Dig them up, brush off the earth and allow them to cure in a dry location for several days. Store them in mesh bags or baskets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Companion planting is an organic method of gardening that uses plants to assist each other in growing. Plants all contain various natural substances that can either aid or hinder another plant's growing abilities. Companion planting is also an important part of integrated pest management by repelling harmful insects without losing any beneficial allies. Brussels sprouts is part of the cabbage family and suffers and benefits from the same factors as other members of the cabbage family. Several herbs and crops make useful companions to Brussels sprouts.
Improve Flavor
Chamomile improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts, but use it sparingly. Only grow one plant every 150 feet because this low-growing herb with daisy-like apple-scented flowers is a creeper and can spread quickly. Garlic is another companion herb that improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts. Additionally, garlic doubles as a pest repellent and has anti-fungal properties, too. Garlic plants are easy to grow and grow from the individual cloves on the bulb. Nearby sage plants also help to make Brussels sprouts more succulent and tasty. Sage also likes to grow next to rosemary, which is a pest deterrent for cabbage crops.
Deter Pests
Cabbage crops including Brussels sprouts are all susceptible to the same pests. Plant onions nearby to keep the hardest to control insect -- aphids -- in check. These small green, orange, yellow, red, black or white insects suck the plant's juices, causing yellow leaves. Nasturtiums also help deter aphids from Brussels sprout plants by acting as a trap that the aphids flock to. Nasturtiums also keep away various types of beetles like the flea beetle, which chew tiny holes in the Brussels sprouts leaves and roots. Another leaf-chewing pest is the cabbage worm, which is curbed by planting potatoes. Cabbage worms morph into cabbage white butterflies or moths, which also are a pest to Brussels sprout crops. Plant celery stalks to lure them away, as well as aromatic herbs like sage, hyssop, rosemary, peppermint and catnip.
Add Nutrients
Grow beets next to Brussels sprouts to help the soil's fertility. They contribute minerals to the soil like magnesium. Magnesium deficiency is a common problem when growing Brussels sprouts, and is identified by yellowish outer areas around the leaves. Beets are also a companion plant to onions, another of Brussels sprouts companions, and help deter common pests like aphids. Grow all three close to each other for maximum performance. Green manures are cover crops that are grown specifically to return nutrients back to the soil. Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders and often require a lot of nitrogen, which leguminous cover crops are big suppliers of. Alfalfa is one the highest nitrogen providers. Other useful cover crops for Brussels sprouts are clover, winter rye and vetch.
Non-Companions
Although both plants are cool season crops, never plant Brussels sprouts, or any other member of the cabbage family, near strawberry plants. Brussels sprout plant growth is inhibited when planted near strawberries. Keep Brussels sprout plants away from tomatoes and pole beans, too. Cabbage crops contain plant chemicals that inhibit tomato growth, as well as other nightshades like eggplants and peppers.
Improve Flavor
Chamomile improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts, but use it sparingly. Only grow one plant every 150 feet because this low-growing herb with daisy-like apple-scented flowers is a creeper and can spread quickly. Garlic is another companion herb that improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts. Additionally, garlic doubles as a pest repellent and has anti-fungal properties, too. Garlic plants are easy to grow and grow from the individual cloves on the bulb. Nearby sage plants also help to make Brussels sprouts more succulent and tasty. Sage also likes to grow next to rosemary, which is a pest deterrent for cabbage crops.
Deter Pests
Cabbage crops including Brussels sprouts are all susceptible to the same pests. Plant onions nearby to keep the hardest to control insect -- aphids -- in check. These small green, orange, yellow, red, black or white insects suck the plant's juices, causing yellow leaves. Nasturtiums also help deter aphids from Brussels sprout plants by acting as a trap that the aphids flock to. Nasturtiums also keep away various types of beetles like the flea beetle, which chew tiny holes in the Brussels sprouts leaves and roots. Another leaf-chewing pest is the cabbage worm, which is curbed by planting potatoes. Cabbage worms morph into cabbage white butterflies or moths, which also are a pest to Brussels sprout crops. Plant celery stalks to lure them away, as well as aromatic herbs like sage, hyssop, rosemary, peppermint and catnip.
Add Nutrients
Grow beets next to Brussels sprouts to help the soil's fertility. They contribute minerals to the soil like magnesium. Magnesium deficiency is a common problem when growing Brussels sprouts, and is identified by yellowish outer areas around the leaves. Beets are also a companion plant to onions, another of Brussels sprouts companions, and help deter common pests like aphids. Grow all three close to each other for maximum performance. Green manures are cover crops that are grown specifically to return nutrients back to the soil. Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders and often require a lot of nitrogen, which leguminous cover crops are big suppliers of. Alfalfa is one the highest nitrogen providers. Other useful cover crops for Brussels sprouts are clover, winter rye and vetch.
Non-Companions
Although both plants are cool season crops, never plant Brussels sprouts, or any other member of the cabbage family, near strawberry plants. Brussels sprout plant growth is inhibited when planted near strawberries. Keep Brussels sprout plants away from tomatoes and pole beans, too. Cabbage crops contain plant chemicals that inhibit tomato growth, as well as other nightshades like eggplants and peppers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Sprout beans at home for a constant source of cheap and nutritious fresh vegetables. Home production using organic seeds purchased from a trusted source avoids the rare health concerns over mass-produced sprouts. Compare soy, mung, lentil and adzuki bean sprouts to learn their particular flavors. Wash your hands before handling sprouts, rinse thoroughly before eating and keep seeds in a cool and dry place.
Nutritional Values
Soy and mung bean sprouts are year-round sources of low-fat food that contain no cholesterol. They both contain B vitamins, including thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid and folic acid. They're also good sources of dietary fiber and vegetarian protein. Soybeans contain 20 to 25 percent vegetable protein; mung beans contain 22 percent. Six oz. of mung beans contain 60 calories and the same amount of soybeans has 200 calories. Both kinds of sprouts are at their most nutritious as soon as tiny green leaves show at the tips.
Growing Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts
Some beans are easier to sprout than others. Mung beans need eight to 12 hours of soaking, sprout in two to five days and keep for two to six weeks. Soybeans are more difficult to sprout, often splitting open, discoloring and developing a bitter taste if not used when very young. Soybeans require soaking for between two and four hours, sprout in two to six days, keep refrigerated for two to four weeks and yield double the amount of sprouts to beans.
Uses of Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts
Mung beans are the most common and easily available type of sprouts. They feature largely in Asian cuisines and have a sweet, nutty flavor and crisp texture. Uses include adding to cooked dishes at the end of the process. These thick-stemmed sprouts can withstand several minutes worth of cooking. Mung beans sprouts can be stir-fried or cooked in traditional Chinese dishes like chicken chow mein and chop suey, or eaten raw in salads and sandwiches. Soybeans have a more pronounced bean-like flavor and are often preferred cooked, even by enthusiastic sprout eaters. Soybeans are harder to digest when raw, so try cooking them in stews and soups, or adding to a stir-fry. Served raw or cooked, 12 oz. of either mung or soy bean sprouts are enough to serve in salads or as a side dish for between four and six guests. Rinse both types of sprouts well before cooking or eating raw.
Health Benefits
The benefits of mung beans are those associated with all bean sprouts. They contain the dietary necessities of fresh vegetable protein and fiber, as well as C and B vitamins. Soybean sprouts also confer the same protective benefits as other soy products like tofu, tempeh, soy milk and soy sauce. These benefits include possible reductions of the risk of heart disease by lowering LDL cholesterol. In Asia, where consumption rates of soybean products are high, rates of prostrate and breast cancers are low. Active ingredients thought to be responsible for this protection action are the substances daidzein and genistein. Women with estrogen-positive breast cancer must avoid soybean sprouts, because they contain plant hormones that may stimulate the growth of their tumors.
Nutritional Values
Soy and mung bean sprouts are year-round sources of low-fat food that contain no cholesterol. They both contain B vitamins, including thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid and folic acid. They're also good sources of dietary fiber and vegetarian protein. Soybeans contain 20 to 25 percent vegetable protein; mung beans contain 22 percent. Six oz. of mung beans contain 60 calories and the same amount of soybeans has 200 calories. Both kinds of sprouts are at their most nutritious as soon as tiny green leaves show at the tips.
Growing Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts
Some beans are easier to sprout than others. Mung beans need eight to 12 hours of soaking, sprout in two to five days and keep for two to six weeks. Soybeans are more difficult to sprout, often splitting open, discoloring and developing a bitter taste if not used when very young. Soybeans require soaking for between two and four hours, sprout in two to six days, keep refrigerated for two to four weeks and yield double the amount of sprouts to beans.
Uses of Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts
Mung beans are the most common and easily available type of sprouts. They feature largely in Asian cuisines and have a sweet, nutty flavor and crisp texture. Uses include adding to cooked dishes at the end of the process. These thick-stemmed sprouts can withstand several minutes worth of cooking. Mung beans sprouts can be stir-fried or cooked in traditional Chinese dishes like chicken chow mein and chop suey, or eaten raw in salads and sandwiches. Soybeans have a more pronounced bean-like flavor and are often preferred cooked, even by enthusiastic sprout eaters. Soybeans are harder to digest when raw, so try cooking them in stews and soups, or adding to a stir-fry. Served raw or cooked, 12 oz. of either mung or soy bean sprouts are enough to serve in salads or as a side dish for between four and six guests. Rinse both types of sprouts well before cooking or eating raw.
Health Benefits
The benefits of mung beans are those associated with all bean sprouts. They contain the dietary necessities of fresh vegetable protein and fiber, as well as C and B vitamins. Soybean sprouts also confer the same protective benefits as other soy products like tofu, tempeh, soy milk and soy sauce. These benefits include possible reductions of the risk of heart disease by lowering LDL cholesterol. In Asia, where consumption rates of soybean products are high, rates of prostrate and breast cancers are low. Active ingredients thought to be responsible for this protection action are the substances daidzein and genistein. Women with estrogen-positive breast cancer must avoid soybean sprouts, because they contain plant hormones that may stimulate the growth of their tumors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) need soil that is acidic -- in the pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 -- and rich in organic matter, at least six hours of full-sun exposure per day and 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Preparing soil prior to planting and maintaining it on a regular basis will help keep blueberry production at optimal levels. Reducing soil's acidity is a process that can take several years, and keeping it acidic is necessary. Blueberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, depending on their variety.
Test the Soil
Using a home soil pH kit, available from home and garden retailers, test the pH level of the soil in the area where you plan to plant blueberries. Alternatively, your county's Cooperative Extension office will perform the test for you for a fee. If the soil's pH level is over 6.5, then consider an alternative to blueberries because maintaining the soil pH range necessary for successful blueberry production may not be possible. Determined gardeners who live in areas where the soil pH level is too high for blueberry cultivation, however, often have success with using raised plant beds and imported soil that has the necessary pH range. Blueberries thrive with sufficient drainage, and raised beds help meet that preference.
Incorporate Elemental Sulphur
The addition of elemental sulfur is an effective way to lower soil's pH level, making it more acidic. Because elemental sulfur needs at least six months to react with water in soil and lower the soil's pH level, add it in either spring or fall. Elemental sulfur can be purchased in powder or pellet form from home and garden retailers. County Extension publications also offer guidelines on the application of elemental sulfur to garden soil. Purchase elemental sulfur rather that aluminum sulphate because the latter can be toxic to plants. The amount of elemental sulfur necessary depends on the soil's starting pH level and the desired pH level. It takes 2.4 pounds of elemental sulfur for every 100 square feet of soil to lower loam soil's pH level by one point. The amount of elemental sulfur used should be increased by one-half in clay soil and decreased by one-third in sandy soil. Incorporate the elemental sulfur thoroughly into the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Retest the Soil Before Planting
Check soil's pH level again before planting blueberry plants. If the pH level is above 5.5, then incorporate more elemental sulfur with the soil. If the pH level lowered to 5.5 or below, dig a planting hole as deep as its respective blueberry plant's root ball and twice the root ball's width, or at least 18 inches wide and 20 inches deep. Fill part of the hole with organic matter such as bark dust, sawdust or peat moss to promote drainage and to provide nutrients. Loosen the outside surface of the plant's root ball before planting, and set the plant in the hole so that the top of its soil line -- where the soil surface was when the plant was in its nursery container -- is 1 to 2 inches above the ground level that surrounds the planting hole. Fill the rest of the planting hole with soil and organic matter. Place a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface around the plant -- but not touching the plant -- to help protect the blueberry's roots and to curtail weed growth. Avoid using manure or compost containing yard debris because they may have high pH levels. Repeat the planting process for each blueberry plant, and space the bushes about 5 feet apart.
Maintain the Soil Carefully
Retest the soil's pH level every two to three years, and reapply elemental sulfur accordingly to maintain an optimal level. Over time, soil naturally reverts to its previous condition. Mulching blueberry plants well with organic materials that have low pH levels helps keep the soil acidic.
Test the Soil
Using a home soil pH kit, available from home and garden retailers, test the pH level of the soil in the area where you plan to plant blueberries. Alternatively, your county's Cooperative Extension office will perform the test for you for a fee. If the soil's pH level is over 6.5, then consider an alternative to blueberries because maintaining the soil pH range necessary for successful blueberry production may not be possible. Determined gardeners who live in areas where the soil pH level is too high for blueberry cultivation, however, often have success with using raised plant beds and imported soil that has the necessary pH range. Blueberries thrive with sufficient drainage, and raised beds help meet that preference.
Incorporate Elemental Sulphur
The addition of elemental sulfur is an effective way to lower soil's pH level, making it more acidic. Because elemental sulfur needs at least six months to react with water in soil and lower the soil's pH level, add it in either spring or fall. Elemental sulfur can be purchased in powder or pellet form from home and garden retailers. County Extension publications also offer guidelines on the application of elemental sulfur to garden soil. Purchase elemental sulfur rather that aluminum sulphate because the latter can be toxic to plants. The amount of elemental sulfur necessary depends on the soil's starting pH level and the desired pH level. It takes 2.4 pounds of elemental sulfur for every 100 square feet of soil to lower loam soil's pH level by one point. The amount of elemental sulfur used should be increased by one-half in clay soil and decreased by one-third in sandy soil. Incorporate the elemental sulfur thoroughly into the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Retest the Soil Before Planting
Check soil's pH level again before planting blueberry plants. If the pH level is above 5.5, then incorporate more elemental sulfur with the soil. If the pH level lowered to 5.5 or below, dig a planting hole as deep as its respective blueberry plant's root ball and twice the root ball's width, or at least 18 inches wide and 20 inches deep. Fill part of the hole with organic matter such as bark dust, sawdust or peat moss to promote drainage and to provide nutrients. Loosen the outside surface of the plant's root ball before planting, and set the plant in the hole so that the top of its soil line -- where the soil surface was when the plant was in its nursery container -- is 1 to 2 inches above the ground level that surrounds the planting hole. Fill the rest of the planting hole with soil and organic matter. Place a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface around the plant -- but not touching the plant -- to help protect the blueberry's roots and to curtail weed growth. Avoid using manure or compost containing yard debris because they may have high pH levels. Repeat the planting process for each blueberry plant, and space the bushes about 5 feet apart.
Maintain the Soil Carefully
Retest the soil's pH level every two to three years, and reapply elemental sulfur accordingly to maintain an optimal level. Over time, soil naturally reverts to its previous condition. Mulching blueberry plants well with organic materials that have low pH levels helps keep the soil acidic.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Firm, tightly tied hay or straw bales make a quick and easy-to-use organic raised bed for growing strawberries. Gardening in bales allows you to transform rocky, uneven or clay soil — or even a paved parking spot — into fertile growing space. Though growing in a bale is most often recommended for annuals, it's possible to grow strawberries in them for two years, especially if you live in a more northern climate. Make sure your strawberry bed is near a water source, since you'll be watering often.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Soil: Unlike most other cacti Pereskiopsis will put up with a lot of organic material in their soil. Although you should not use a rain forest mix you can and should have a soil mix that is a little more than 75% organic soil. We do this because unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis are heavy feeders. They grow far more quickly thanks to their leaves, and their roots are far more reaching. The other 25% should consist of an even mix of perlite, pumice, rock and sand. All of these four provide excellent drainage oxygen flow in the soil. Root rot is common in Pereskiopsis but is easily avoided by adding these.
Light: As with just about every cactus a lack of light will really harm them if you expect growth and continue to water them. You will wait for a long time if you do not have an artificial light source and humidity. Pereskiopsis live in very tropical, wet and humid regions of Central and South America. This is easy to recreate with your grow light and indoor greenhouse set up. But you must be careful to allow air circulation. This is one of the number one killers of cactus and Pereskiopsis in general behind over watering. If you have an indoor greenhouse you can easily do this by opening up the tent for several hours a day and choosing one day a week in which it is open all day. You should have two angles for air circulation to navigate. No artificial fans are need but can be helpful.
Lighting requirements for Pereskiopsis plants are about 10-14 hours of light a day. Find a balance that fits your lifestyle and that of the plants. If they react negatively toward your specifications, make the appropriate changes.
If you are just growing them during the summer, most northern states and even portions of Canada can maintain Pereskiopsis outside. The months of June, July and August will be perfect for Pereskiopsis in clay pots. Do not bother watering them and just let the rain take care of them. If you are in the western states which are much drier, just water them when the soil becomes dry. Believe it or not these cacti will be tolerant of regular potting soil in a sunny and warm location with good air circulation.
Water: Unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis have the unique property of wanting more water. Don’t make the common mistake though, most cacti would prefer if you watered them more. However the soil, heat and light that you have are probably not enough to accommodate them. Even in their natural habitat, cacti would prefer more water than they receive.
Grower’s Tips
Growing Pereskiopsis is not difficult at all. In fact the plant is quite tolerant of many mistakes you might throw at it, but there are some considerations you must take before planting your new grafting stock. Depending on the number you have and how you will want to display them will dictate how they are planted. Another consideration is whether you received them as cuttings or as fully rooted plants. A tray that does not separate the different plants is perfectly acceptable. However to make grafting easier as well as future cuts, it’s best to use a cell that separates the plants, one per cell. This will also make it easy to separate them when you are ready because the roots are very aggressive and will branch out.
Light: As with just about every cactus a lack of light will really harm them if you expect growth and continue to water them. You will wait for a long time if you do not have an artificial light source and humidity. Pereskiopsis live in very tropical, wet and humid regions of Central and South America. This is easy to recreate with your grow light and indoor greenhouse set up. But you must be careful to allow air circulation. This is one of the number one killers of cactus and Pereskiopsis in general behind over watering. If you have an indoor greenhouse you can easily do this by opening up the tent for several hours a day and choosing one day a week in which it is open all day. You should have two angles for air circulation to navigate. No artificial fans are need but can be helpful.
Lighting requirements for Pereskiopsis plants are about 10-14 hours of light a day. Find a balance that fits your lifestyle and that of the plants. If they react negatively toward your specifications, make the appropriate changes.
If you are just growing them during the summer, most northern states and even portions of Canada can maintain Pereskiopsis outside. The months of June, July and August will be perfect for Pereskiopsis in clay pots. Do not bother watering them and just let the rain take care of them. If you are in the western states which are much drier, just water them when the soil becomes dry. Believe it or not these cacti will be tolerant of regular potting soil in a sunny and warm location with good air circulation.
Water: Unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis have the unique property of wanting more water. Don’t make the common mistake though, most cacti would prefer if you watered them more. However the soil, heat and light that you have are probably not enough to accommodate them. Even in their natural habitat, cacti would prefer more water than they receive.
Grower’s Tips
Growing Pereskiopsis is not difficult at all. In fact the plant is quite tolerant of many mistakes you might throw at it, but there are some considerations you must take before planting your new grafting stock. Depending on the number you have and how you will want to display them will dictate how they are planted. Another consideration is whether you received them as cuttings or as fully rooted plants. A tray that does not separate the different plants is perfectly acceptable. However to make grafting easier as well as future cuts, it’s best to use a cell that separates the plants, one per cell. This will also make it easy to separate them when you are ready because the roots are very aggressive and will branch out.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Ozone is the most damaging air pollutant to plants. The action of sunlight (ultraviolet radiation) on molecular oxygen and oxides of nitrogen spontaneously generates ozone. The organic compounds in automobile exhaust enhance ozone accumulation. Ozone can move across great distances to cause damage to plants far from its origin and is therefore classified as a non-pointsource pollutant.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The extent of damage depends on the concentration of ozone, the duration of exposure, and plant sensitivity. Acute damage to deciduous trees causes marginal leaf burn and dot-like, irregular-shaped lesions or spots that may be tan, white, or dark brown. Symptoms may spread over entire leaves. Another common symptom is bleaching of the upper leaf surface. Broad-leaved trees often exhibit these symptoms of stippling or red-purple or necrotic flecks on the upper leaf surface only.
Acute damage to conifers causes browning at the same point on all needles in a bundle (needle cluster). Other symptoms include chlorotic (yellow) mottling or necrotic (brown to black) banding, tip burn, dwarfing, and tufted appearance due to early defoliation of older needles. Damage from ozone can be confused with other problems and, if suspected, a more detailed reference material (such as Diseases of Trees & Shrubs by Sinclair, Lyon, & Anderson) should be consulted.
Life Cycle
Ozone builds up to phytotoxic levels in the atmosphere during warm, sunny weather when pollutants accumulate in stagnant air. Accumulation often occurs during atmospheric inversions in valleys and basins bounded by mountains.
Ozone may cause damage to plants far from the source of its precursors as masses of polluted air move overland. Ozone from natural sources (carried from the stratosphere or generated during electrical storms) alone is inconsequential for plant health, but may be added to that generated by humans.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Maintain plant vigor. Plants that are in good health resist all type of injury better than weakened plants. Water during drought periods. Fertilize following a soil test report. Soil should be porous, well-draining, and not compacted.
2. Select plants. Select plants tolerant of air pollutants.
3. Reduce emissions. Reduce emissions from the source when possible.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The extent of damage depends on the concentration of ozone, the duration of exposure, and plant sensitivity. Acute damage to deciduous trees causes marginal leaf burn and dot-like, irregular-shaped lesions or spots that may be tan, white, or dark brown. Symptoms may spread over entire leaves. Another common symptom is bleaching of the upper leaf surface. Broad-leaved trees often exhibit these symptoms of stippling or red-purple or necrotic flecks on the upper leaf surface only.
Acute damage to conifers causes browning at the same point on all needles in a bundle (needle cluster). Other symptoms include chlorotic (yellow) mottling or necrotic (brown to black) banding, tip burn, dwarfing, and tufted appearance due to early defoliation of older needles. Damage from ozone can be confused with other problems and, if suspected, a more detailed reference material (such as Diseases of Trees & Shrubs by Sinclair, Lyon, & Anderson) should be consulted.
Life Cycle
Ozone builds up to phytotoxic levels in the atmosphere during warm, sunny weather when pollutants accumulate in stagnant air. Accumulation often occurs during atmospheric inversions in valleys and basins bounded by mountains.
Ozone may cause damage to plants far from the source of its precursors as masses of polluted air move overland. Ozone from natural sources (carried from the stratosphere or generated during electrical storms) alone is inconsequential for plant health, but may be added to that generated by humans.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Maintain plant vigor. Plants that are in good health resist all type of injury better than weakened plants. Water during drought periods. Fertilize following a soil test report. Soil should be porous, well-draining, and not compacted.
2. Select plants. Select plants tolerant of air pollutants.
3. Reduce emissions. Reduce emissions from the source when possible.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Mushrooms growing in lawns are common occurrences especially during rainy weather. They live off decaying organic matter in the soil, often decaying tree roots, and are not harmful to the lawn. They will naturally disappear as they age or they may be collected and composted, knocked down with a rake or hoe, or mowed over with your lawnmower. Mushrooms should never be collected and eaten unless you are expert in their identification. To the novice gardener, many poisonous mushrooms can look very similar to edible ones. Don’t take a chance.
Mushrooms that develop in a ring in the lawn are called fairy rings. They will be the focus of the remainder of this sheet.
Fairy rings are caused by many different soilinhabiting fungi of the class Basidiomycetes. These fungi can cause the development of rings or arcs of deep green grass as well as unthrifty or dead grass.
Fairy ring fungi do not attack grass directly, but break down organic matter in the soil. As a result, nitrogen is released which the grass uses, causing it to grow and develop a contrasting green ring. In cases where the mycelia of the fungus get very dense and inhibit water movement into the soil, grass in the arc may turn brown. Mycelia may also deplete soil nutrients and produce toxic levels of hydrogen cyanide. The mushrooms that appear after rainfall are the fruiting bodies of the fungus.
The organic matter fairy rings break down is often old tree stumps, roots, logs, lumber, and other larger pieces of organic material in the soil below the lawn. Once this material is depleted, the fairy ring will disappear. This may take considerable time. Several fairy rings may appear relatively close together, especially on lawns that exist on sites that were previously wooded areas. When this occurs, it becomes noticeable that fairy rings do not cross each other, as fungal activity ceases when fungi from different rings contact each other.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Dark green circles, arcs, or rings of thick, fastgrowing grass develop anytime from green-up in the spring (most common) until the first hard frost in the fall. These rings are most commonly between 2 and 15 feet in diameter, although they may be larger or smaller. Mushrooms or puffballs may appear under wet conditions in the same ring pattern. In some cases, a ring of brown or dead grass may appear.
Life Cycle
Approximately 50 species of fungi are known to form fairy rings in turf, with Marasmius oreades, Agaricus campestris, Lycoperdon spp., and Scleroderma spp. being the most common. These fungi decompose organic debris in the soil and thatch.
Fairy ring starts from a piece of mycelium or spore at a single point feeding in the thatch layer or on soil organic matter. The uniform outward growth of the fungus results in the development of rings.
Under certain conditions, and with certain fairy ring fungi, a ring of dead grass develops. Some of the responsible fungi have been shown to penetrate and kill root cells resulting in dead rings of grass. In addition, the mycelia of some fairy ring fungi are reported to be hydrophobic, creating a waterimpervious layer resulting in drought-stress problems for the grass. Once the soil under this mycelial layer becomes dry, it is very difficult to wet, and the roots of the grass plant die.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Fertilizer. Use of a nitrogen fertilizer can mask the symptoms of fairy ring by causing the rest of the lawn to green up. Using a soil needle (deep root feeder) to aerate and irrigate dead and dying rings is recommended.
2. Removal. Fairy ring development can be traced to buried organic debris. Undecomposed tree roots, wood scraps from construction projects, and other organic debris are commonly colonized by the fairy ring fungi and should be removed before establishing a new lawn. Use clean, ring-free sod for a new or renovated lawn.
Destroying existing turf may be required in persistent cases. Discard or kill a strip of sod 1 to 2 feet wide on each side of the zone of lush turf with a non-selective herbicide. Cultivate the area repeatedly to thoroughly mix the ring and nonring soil. Eliminate dry spots by soaking the cultivated area with water. Reseed or install clean, ring-free sod.
3. Thatch. Eliminate thatch buildup with a dethatching program.
4. Fungicides. Some fungicides are available for suppression of fairy ring, however, they may be only temporary as the decaying material may still be present.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 2 and 3 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
Mushrooms that develop in a ring in the lawn are called fairy rings. They will be the focus of the remainder of this sheet.
Fairy rings are caused by many different soilinhabiting fungi of the class Basidiomycetes. These fungi can cause the development of rings or arcs of deep green grass as well as unthrifty or dead grass.
Fairy ring fungi do not attack grass directly, but break down organic matter in the soil. As a result, nitrogen is released which the grass uses, causing it to grow and develop a contrasting green ring. In cases where the mycelia of the fungus get very dense and inhibit water movement into the soil, grass in the arc may turn brown. Mycelia may also deplete soil nutrients and produce toxic levels of hydrogen cyanide. The mushrooms that appear after rainfall are the fruiting bodies of the fungus.
The organic matter fairy rings break down is often old tree stumps, roots, logs, lumber, and other larger pieces of organic material in the soil below the lawn. Once this material is depleted, the fairy ring will disappear. This may take considerable time. Several fairy rings may appear relatively close together, especially on lawns that exist on sites that were previously wooded areas. When this occurs, it becomes noticeable that fairy rings do not cross each other, as fungal activity ceases when fungi from different rings contact each other.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Dark green circles, arcs, or rings of thick, fastgrowing grass develop anytime from green-up in the spring (most common) until the first hard frost in the fall. These rings are most commonly between 2 and 15 feet in diameter, although they may be larger or smaller. Mushrooms or puffballs may appear under wet conditions in the same ring pattern. In some cases, a ring of brown or dead grass may appear.
Life Cycle
Approximately 50 species of fungi are known to form fairy rings in turf, with Marasmius oreades, Agaricus campestris, Lycoperdon spp., and Scleroderma spp. being the most common. These fungi decompose organic debris in the soil and thatch.
Fairy ring starts from a piece of mycelium or spore at a single point feeding in the thatch layer or on soil organic matter. The uniform outward growth of the fungus results in the development of rings.
Under certain conditions, and with certain fairy ring fungi, a ring of dead grass develops. Some of the responsible fungi have been shown to penetrate and kill root cells resulting in dead rings of grass. In addition, the mycelia of some fairy ring fungi are reported to be hydrophobic, creating a waterimpervious layer resulting in drought-stress problems for the grass. Once the soil under this mycelial layer becomes dry, it is very difficult to wet, and the roots of the grass plant die.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Fertilizer. Use of a nitrogen fertilizer can mask the symptoms of fairy ring by causing the rest of the lawn to green up. Using a soil needle (deep root feeder) to aerate and irrigate dead and dying rings is recommended.
2. Removal. Fairy ring development can be traced to buried organic debris. Undecomposed tree roots, wood scraps from construction projects, and other organic debris are commonly colonized by the fairy ring fungi and should be removed before establishing a new lawn. Use clean, ring-free sod for a new or renovated lawn.
Destroying existing turf may be required in persistent cases. Discard or kill a strip of sod 1 to 2 feet wide on each side of the zone of lush turf with a non-selective herbicide. Cultivate the area repeatedly to thoroughly mix the ring and nonring soil. Eliminate dry spots by soaking the cultivated area with water. Reseed or install clean, ring-free sod.
3. Thatch. Eliminate thatch buildup with a dethatching program.
4. Fungicides. Some fungicides are available for suppression of fairy ring, however, they may be only temporary as the decaying material may still be present.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 2 and 3 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Homemade remedies are a longstanding tradition among organic gardeners, who have had to be creative in finding ways to battle insects and diseases without the help of synthetic chemicals. In the case of fighting aphids, two homemade sprays have proven very effective in controlling aphid infestations. Organic gardeners have been using tomato leaf spray or garlic oil spray to battle aphids for generations.
While knowing how to make and use them is important, it's equally important to understand why they work.
Tomato Leaf Spray
Tomato plants, as members of the nightshade family, contain toxic compounds called alkaloids in their leaves. When the leaves of tomato plants are chopped, they release their alkaloids. When the alkaloids are suspended and diluted with water, they make an easy to use spray that is toxic to aphids, but still safe around plants and humans.
How to Make Tomato Leaf Spray
Simply chop one or two cups of tomato leaves and soak them in two cups of water. Let it steep overnight. Strain out the leaves using cheesecloth or a fine strainer; then add another one to two cups of water to the liquid and add it to a spray bottle.
Applying Tomato Leaf Spray
Use the mixture by spraying the stems and foliage of the infested plant, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves since that is where aphids most commonly congregate.
One word of caution, while this spray is very safe for humans, some people are allergic to members of the nightshade family. If you are one of them, use care in making and applying this spray.
Garlic Oil Spray
Organic gardeners have long relied on garlic as part of their pest-fighting arsenal. Garlic contains sulfur, which, besides being toxic to pests, is also an antibacterial and antifungal agent.
The dish soap in this mixture also breaks down the bodies of soft-bodied pests, such as aphids.
How to Make Garlic Oil Spray
To make garlic oil spray, mince or finely chop three to four cloves of garlic, and add them to two teaspoons of mineral oil. Let this mixture sit for 24 hours. Strain out the garlic pieces, and add the remaining liquid to one pint of water. Add one teaspoon of liquid dish soap. This mixture can be stored and diluted as needed.
Applying Garlic Oil Spray
Before using this spray test it by spraying an inconspicuous part of the plant. If there are no signs of yellowing or other leaf damage after a day or two, it is safe to use. If there is leaf damage, dilute the mixture with more water and try the test again. Once you have determined that it won't harm your plant, spray the entire plant, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
A word of caution about this spray, garlic oil is a non-selective insecticide. It will kill beneficial insects (such as ladybugs, who are natural predators of aphids) just as easily as it kills the bad guys. It's best to keep as many beneficial insects around as possible. This spray should only be used if you haven't seen any beneficial bugs in your garden.
The tomato leaf recipe, above, won't harm beneficial bugs, so you should use that if you're lucky enough to have some in your garden.
While knowing how to make and use them is important, it's equally important to understand why they work.
Tomato Leaf Spray
Tomato plants, as members of the nightshade family, contain toxic compounds called alkaloids in their leaves. When the leaves of tomato plants are chopped, they release their alkaloids. When the alkaloids are suspended and diluted with water, they make an easy to use spray that is toxic to aphids, but still safe around plants and humans.
How to Make Tomato Leaf Spray
Simply chop one or two cups of tomato leaves and soak them in two cups of water. Let it steep overnight. Strain out the leaves using cheesecloth or a fine strainer; then add another one to two cups of water to the liquid and add it to a spray bottle.
Applying Tomato Leaf Spray
Use the mixture by spraying the stems and foliage of the infested plant, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves since that is where aphids most commonly congregate.
One word of caution, while this spray is very safe for humans, some people are allergic to members of the nightshade family. If you are one of them, use care in making and applying this spray.
Garlic Oil Spray
Organic gardeners have long relied on garlic as part of their pest-fighting arsenal. Garlic contains sulfur, which, besides being toxic to pests, is also an antibacterial and antifungal agent.
The dish soap in this mixture also breaks down the bodies of soft-bodied pests, such as aphids.
How to Make Garlic Oil Spray
To make garlic oil spray, mince or finely chop three to four cloves of garlic, and add them to two teaspoons of mineral oil. Let this mixture sit for 24 hours. Strain out the garlic pieces, and add the remaining liquid to one pint of water. Add one teaspoon of liquid dish soap. This mixture can be stored and diluted as needed.
Applying Garlic Oil Spray
Before using this spray test it by spraying an inconspicuous part of the plant. If there are no signs of yellowing or other leaf damage after a day or two, it is safe to use. If there is leaf damage, dilute the mixture with more water and try the test again. Once you have determined that it won't harm your plant, spray the entire plant, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
A word of caution about this spray, garlic oil is a non-selective insecticide. It will kill beneficial insects (such as ladybugs, who are natural predators of aphids) just as easily as it kills the bad guys. It's best to keep as many beneficial insects around as possible. This spray should only be used if you haven't seen any beneficial bugs in your garden.
The tomato leaf recipe, above, won't harm beneficial bugs, so you should use that if you're lucky enough to have some in your garden.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
This introduction to organic ant control in the yard will answer three questions:
Do these insects truly cause damage in your yard?
Which herbs have traditionally been used to repel them?
Which products can help you in your organic ant control efforts?
Is It Really Necessary?
If you mention in certain circles that you practice ant control in the yard, you're likely to have some smart aleck pipe up and rant, "That's not really necessary, because these insects don't cause much damage to plants, so just leave them alone." But what your Mr. Know-It-All isn't recognizing in his rant is that, indirectly, ants can cause significant damage to plants.
Ants have a sweet tooth for honeydew, a substance secreted by insect pests such as aphids, scale and whitefly. Not content to take a "hunter-gatherer" approach to supplying themselves with honeydew, ants act as "farmers," herding around the insect pests that secrete the honeydew. The herders protect these insect pests from predatory insects that would, otherwise, kill them.
Ant control, then, can be regarded as a measure to take against insect pests such aphids, scale and whitefly. Incidentally, as if the direct damage caused by these herded insect pests weren't sufficiently troubling to convince you that ant control is a legitimate concern, consider this: sooty mold, a fungus that often coats honeydew-stained plants, can damage a plant by depriving it of sufficient sunlight. Oh, and sooty mold turns ornamental plants into eyesores, too, by the way.
Now that you understand when and why it's necessary to take action, let's consider a few organic methods used to tackle the problem.
Note also that, in addition to the organic tips discussed below, successes in organic ant control have been reported using everything from parasitic wasps to talcum powder.
Getting Rid of Ants Naturally Through Companion Planting
As gardeners, I think we're enamored with the idea that the solution to one plant's problem may well lie in another plant.
Indeed, companion planting has helped gardeners deal effectively -- and organically -- with pests for centuries. There are even companion-planting solutions for ant control. Specifically, the fragrance of certain herbs has been thought to repel certain insects, including ants.
Before I cite examples of plants used traditionally for organic ant control, however, let me issue a disclaimer. One gardener may swear that such and such an herb discourages ants; but that doesn't much help another gardener (living, perhaps, in a different region) who tries the same herb but fails to enjoy the same results. Remember that a given herb may not repel all types of ants. If you wish to try companion planting for organic ant control, be ready to experiment: Don't take anything as "the Gospel truth," or you may suffer disappointment.
Besides, the nice thing about companion planting is that, even if it fails, all you're "stuck" with (besides the insects you're fighting, that is) are some additional plants -- plants which you may end up liking so much for their ornamental value, etc. that you decide they're now must-haves for your yard (so you haven't wasted any money, at least).
Examples of Herbs Used in Organic Ant Control
Click on the links below to determine if lavender, sage, catnip or tansy might be plants you'd be interested in trying for organic ant control:
Lavender
Sage
Catnip
Tansy
In experimenting with herbs for organic ant control, remember that you have some leeway in terms of exactly how you use the plants. This is an important consideration when you realize that tansy, for example, can be among the worst invasive plants. So note carefully that you don't necessarily have to plant the herbs for organic ant control around your specimen plants.
Instead, you can harvest the leaves from the herbs (grown elsewhere), then simply strew the leaves around a specimen plant. If you suspect a plant to be overly aggressive, plant it in a raised bed, where you have more control over it. Remember, too, that you would be targeting only specimen plants susceptible to aphids, scale and whitefly when employing this ant control method.
Organic Ant Control Products
"But," perhaps you object, "I don't have time to experiment with traditional methods of ant control.
Is there an organic product that I can buy in stores or on the Web?" Fortunately, for the committed modernist, yes, there are organic products sold for getting rid of ants.
One such ant control product is the Tree Tanglefoot Pest Barrier, an organic paste composed primarily of sticky substances (waxes and resins) that act as a sort of "fly paper" for ants. Another is Orange Guard, which functions as both a repellent and an insecticide for getting rid of ants. Its active ingredient (d-Limonene) is organic: orange peel extract. Eco Exempt IC-2 is another organic insecticide for ant control, being composed of mineral, wintergreen and rosemary oils.
Final Thought on Getting Rid of Ants in the Yard
In closing, let's return to my initial question of whether it's necessary to get rid of ants in the yard, at all. As I stated above, controlling aphids, scale and whitefly entails, in part, controlling ants. But the corollary of this conclusion (vis-a-vis the health of your specimen plants, at least) is that if you do not have a problem with aphids, scale or whitefly, then you may not have to worry about getting rid of ants, either: many ants are, in themselves, harmless.
So don't overdo it! In defense of ants, your Mr. Know-It-All would have been correct to point out that ants do prey on certain insect pests. Ant control can be counterproductive when practiced blindly.
Do these insects truly cause damage in your yard?
Which herbs have traditionally been used to repel them?
Which products can help you in your organic ant control efforts?
Is It Really Necessary?
If you mention in certain circles that you practice ant control in the yard, you're likely to have some smart aleck pipe up and rant, "That's not really necessary, because these insects don't cause much damage to plants, so just leave them alone." But what your Mr. Know-It-All isn't recognizing in his rant is that, indirectly, ants can cause significant damage to plants.
Ants have a sweet tooth for honeydew, a substance secreted by insect pests such as aphids, scale and whitefly. Not content to take a "hunter-gatherer" approach to supplying themselves with honeydew, ants act as "farmers," herding around the insect pests that secrete the honeydew. The herders protect these insect pests from predatory insects that would, otherwise, kill them.
Ant control, then, can be regarded as a measure to take against insect pests such aphids, scale and whitefly. Incidentally, as if the direct damage caused by these herded insect pests weren't sufficiently troubling to convince you that ant control is a legitimate concern, consider this: sooty mold, a fungus that often coats honeydew-stained plants, can damage a plant by depriving it of sufficient sunlight. Oh, and sooty mold turns ornamental plants into eyesores, too, by the way.
Now that you understand when and why it's necessary to take action, let's consider a few organic methods used to tackle the problem.
Note also that, in addition to the organic tips discussed below, successes in organic ant control have been reported using everything from parasitic wasps to talcum powder.
Getting Rid of Ants Naturally Through Companion Planting
As gardeners, I think we're enamored with the idea that the solution to one plant's problem may well lie in another plant.
Indeed, companion planting has helped gardeners deal effectively -- and organically -- with pests for centuries. There are even companion-planting solutions for ant control. Specifically, the fragrance of certain herbs has been thought to repel certain insects, including ants.
Before I cite examples of plants used traditionally for organic ant control, however, let me issue a disclaimer. One gardener may swear that such and such an herb discourages ants; but that doesn't much help another gardener (living, perhaps, in a different region) who tries the same herb but fails to enjoy the same results. Remember that a given herb may not repel all types of ants. If you wish to try companion planting for organic ant control, be ready to experiment: Don't take anything as "the Gospel truth," or you may suffer disappointment.
Besides, the nice thing about companion planting is that, even if it fails, all you're "stuck" with (besides the insects you're fighting, that is) are some additional plants -- plants which you may end up liking so much for their ornamental value, etc. that you decide they're now must-haves for your yard (so you haven't wasted any money, at least).
Examples of Herbs Used in Organic Ant Control
Click on the links below to determine if lavender, sage, catnip or tansy might be plants you'd be interested in trying for organic ant control:
Lavender
Sage
Catnip
Tansy
In experimenting with herbs for organic ant control, remember that you have some leeway in terms of exactly how you use the plants. This is an important consideration when you realize that tansy, for example, can be among the worst invasive plants. So note carefully that you don't necessarily have to plant the herbs for organic ant control around your specimen plants.
Instead, you can harvest the leaves from the herbs (grown elsewhere), then simply strew the leaves around a specimen plant. If you suspect a plant to be overly aggressive, plant it in a raised bed, where you have more control over it. Remember, too, that you would be targeting only specimen plants susceptible to aphids, scale and whitefly when employing this ant control method.
Organic Ant Control Products
"But," perhaps you object, "I don't have time to experiment with traditional methods of ant control.
Is there an organic product that I can buy in stores or on the Web?" Fortunately, for the committed modernist, yes, there are organic products sold for getting rid of ants.
One such ant control product is the Tree Tanglefoot Pest Barrier, an organic paste composed primarily of sticky substances (waxes and resins) that act as a sort of "fly paper" for ants. Another is Orange Guard, which functions as both a repellent and an insecticide for getting rid of ants. Its active ingredient (d-Limonene) is organic: orange peel extract. Eco Exempt IC-2 is another organic insecticide for ant control, being composed of mineral, wintergreen and rosemary oils.
Final Thought on Getting Rid of Ants in the Yard
In closing, let's return to my initial question of whether it's necessary to get rid of ants in the yard, at all. As I stated above, controlling aphids, scale and whitefly entails, in part, controlling ants. But the corollary of this conclusion (vis-a-vis the health of your specimen plants, at least) is that if you do not have a problem with aphids, scale or whitefly, then you may not have to worry about getting rid of ants, either: many ants are, in themselves, harmless.
So don't overdo it! In defense of ants, your Mr. Know-It-All would have been correct to point out that ants do prey on certain insect pests. Ant control can be counterproductive when practiced blindly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Herb growing problems tend to be relatively few as long as you pay attention to a few golden rules. Most herbs are sun loving and require at least six hours each day. Herbs also like well drained soil with a pH of 6 to 7 and amended with some good organic compost. Regular pruning and by virtue of that, removal of any weak or infested growth are the final components to protecting herbs from pests and diseases. That said, there are some common pests and diseases of herbs that may afflict the herb garden.
Protecting Herbs from Pests
The essential fragrant oils of most herbs are a natural repellent to many insects. Despite this, at some time pests like slugs encroach the herb garden and ravage your plants. The good news is that most of these pests are really just that; they do not usually cause severe damage and are mostly a nuisance.
Aphids – Aphids love the tender new leaves of herbs and, in large numbers, may cause curling of the foliage. The resulting honeydew secretion may promote sooty mold as well as attract ants. Aphids are most commonly found among crowded and rapidly growing herbs. Horticultural soaps and neem oil may aid in exterminating these pests. Spider mites – Spider mites prefer hot, dry conditions and are often spotted on the underside of the herb leaves. Protecting the herb garden from these pests is as simple as a strong stream of water aimed at the foliage and regular irrigation. Whiteflies – Whiteflies will also appear on the underside of the leaves.
Leafhoppers – Leafhoppers rarely do much damage but do feed on basil, oregano, and parsley. Leaf miners – Leaf miners will also attack succulent basil, leaving tunneling trails between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Parsley worms – Black swallowtail caterpillars morph into spectacular butterflies. Hence, many gardeners refrain from eliminating them and simply plant plenty of the parsley, dill and fennel these guy love to munch on. Flea beetles – Yet another pest, the flea beetle is again just that, chewing pinprick holes in the leaves of herbs but sustaining no serious damage. Weevils – Weevils, such as the carrot weevil, will feed on parsley roots but inflict no lasting damage. Spittle bugs – And finally, spittle bugs while leaving a rather unsightly spit-like froth on foliage, can easily be washed off with water and cause little damage.
Diseases of Herbs
Very few herbs (mints and lemon grass) thrive in wet soil. Waterlogged soils encourage fungal diseases such as fusarium root rot. Symptoms appear as brown streaks on the herb stems with an end result often of the general collapse of the plant. Rust plagues many members of the mint family and presents itself as rusty orange lesions on the underside of the leaves. Defenses against diseases of herbs are proper growing conditions, sanitation, removal of weak or otherwise infested foliage and regular pruning. Raised beds will foster good drainage and watering in the morning to give the herb plenty of time to dry out will also retard the spread of fungal spores which could result in disease.
Troubleshooting the Herb Garden
The best defense, as they say, is a good offense, so when troubleshooting the herb garden, remember to follow the golden rules as outlined below:
Choose healthy herbs to plant. Plant the healthy herb in the correct environment, either moist and humid or sunny and dry. Do your research and find out the best spot for each type of herb. Do not overcrowd your herb plants. Allow for growth, spread and general aeration between plants. Practice proper irrigation and fertilization. Irrigate and fertilize (preferably with an organic food like compost tea) on a schedule and allow to dry between watering. Also, weed between plants to discourage pests and encourage healthy foliage and root systems. Prune, prune, prune. Prune your herb, or in other words, harvest the herb plant frequently. This will not only automatically prod you to remove any sick foliage and observe any marauding insects for removal, but promote a lusher, bushier specimen. Harvesting will also remove blossoms, which will keep the plant producing since flowering is a signal to the plant that it’s about time to die back for the season. Follow these rules and you will be less likely to resort to chemical controls for your herb garden which in turn would mean you are ingesting chemicals.
Protecting Herbs from Pests
The essential fragrant oils of most herbs are a natural repellent to many insects. Despite this, at some time pests like slugs encroach the herb garden and ravage your plants. The good news is that most of these pests are really just that; they do not usually cause severe damage and are mostly a nuisance.
Aphids – Aphids love the tender new leaves of herbs and, in large numbers, may cause curling of the foliage. The resulting honeydew secretion may promote sooty mold as well as attract ants. Aphids are most commonly found among crowded and rapidly growing herbs. Horticultural soaps and neem oil may aid in exterminating these pests. Spider mites – Spider mites prefer hot, dry conditions and are often spotted on the underside of the herb leaves. Protecting the herb garden from these pests is as simple as a strong stream of water aimed at the foliage and regular irrigation. Whiteflies – Whiteflies will also appear on the underside of the leaves.
Leafhoppers – Leafhoppers rarely do much damage but do feed on basil, oregano, and parsley. Leaf miners – Leaf miners will also attack succulent basil, leaving tunneling trails between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Parsley worms – Black swallowtail caterpillars morph into spectacular butterflies. Hence, many gardeners refrain from eliminating them and simply plant plenty of the parsley, dill and fennel these guy love to munch on. Flea beetles – Yet another pest, the flea beetle is again just that, chewing pinprick holes in the leaves of herbs but sustaining no serious damage. Weevils – Weevils, such as the carrot weevil, will feed on parsley roots but inflict no lasting damage. Spittle bugs – And finally, spittle bugs while leaving a rather unsightly spit-like froth on foliage, can easily be washed off with water and cause little damage.
Diseases of Herbs
Very few herbs (mints and lemon grass) thrive in wet soil. Waterlogged soils encourage fungal diseases such as fusarium root rot. Symptoms appear as brown streaks on the herb stems with an end result often of the general collapse of the plant. Rust plagues many members of the mint family and presents itself as rusty orange lesions on the underside of the leaves. Defenses against diseases of herbs are proper growing conditions, sanitation, removal of weak or otherwise infested foliage and regular pruning. Raised beds will foster good drainage and watering in the morning to give the herb plenty of time to dry out will also retard the spread of fungal spores which could result in disease.
Troubleshooting the Herb Garden
The best defense, as they say, is a good offense, so when troubleshooting the herb garden, remember to follow the golden rules as outlined below:
Choose healthy herbs to plant. Plant the healthy herb in the correct environment, either moist and humid or sunny and dry. Do your research and find out the best spot for each type of herb. Do not overcrowd your herb plants. Allow for growth, spread and general aeration between plants. Practice proper irrigation and fertilization. Irrigate and fertilize (preferably with an organic food like compost tea) on a schedule and allow to dry between watering. Also, weed between plants to discourage pests and encourage healthy foliage and root systems. Prune, prune, prune. Prune your herb, or in other words, harvest the herb plant frequently. This will not only automatically prod you to remove any sick foliage and observe any marauding insects for removal, but promote a lusher, bushier specimen. Harvesting will also remove blossoms, which will keep the plant producing since flowering is a signal to the plant that it’s about time to die back for the season. Follow these rules and you will be less likely to resort to chemical controls for your herb garden which in turn would mean you are ingesting chemicals.
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