文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月13日
The camellia is a flowering shrub cultivated for more than 1,000 years and is the southern U.S. answer to the peony. Similarities between peonies and camellias include lushly petaled blooms and a tendency to live for more than a century. They live so long because they grow slowly. Camellias are part of the Theaceae or tea plant family, including the most common ornamental species, C. japonica and C. sasanqua. Camellia sinensis yields flowers that produce tea, but it is not as ornamental. They can be planted anytime except for the hottest summer months.
Camellias are evergreens with dark, glossy leaves. Flowers may be white, pink, red, or streaked, and blooms can be single or double. It is popularly used in shrub borders, backgrounds, and loose hedges. Camellia can be used as an espalier specimen—training the shrub to grow flat against a fence or wall. Camellias stand for faithfulness and longevity in the language of flowers and are a lush addition to winter wedding floral arrangements.
Although the plant is an indigenous species in the Philippines, the flower became commonly named for Moravian Jesuit priest Brother Josef Kamel, a botanist, pharmacist, and missionary who classified plants in the Philippines.
Botanical Name Camellia spp.
Common Names Camellia
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2 to 12 feet (depending on variety)
Sun Exposure Part shade
Soil Type Moist, rich soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (acidic)
Bloom Time Late fall, winter, and early spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, yellow, or lavender
Hardiness Zones 7 to 9 (USDA); a few varieties hardy in zone 6B
Native Area Japan, China, Korea
Camellia Care
Camellias are best planted in rich, moist soil in a part-shade location. If planting multiple camellia shrubs, space them at least 5 feet apart. They do not like to compete for water and nutrients with trees in close proximity. Know the mature size of your camellia, and plan accordingly if planting close to a window or home foundation. You do not need to amend the backfill soil at planting time, instead, rake compost or well-rotted manure into the top few inches of the soil.
If your camellia develops yellow leaves, inspect the undersides of leaves for tea scale, an insect pest that feeds on leaf juices. Although the leaves will appear yellow on top, the undersides will look white or fuzzy. Treat tea scale with horticultural oil. An iron deficiency can also cause yellow leaves. Test your soil, and feed your camellias with an iron supplement if needed.
Light
Camellias thrive in part shade. Camellia sasanqua cultivars can take more sun than japonica types.
Soil
Camellias require well-drained soil, and an ideal soil pH for camellias is within the 6.0 to 6.5 range. If your soil is dense clay and doesn't drain well, use containers instead. Choose at least an 18-inch container and a rich, loamy potting soil.
Water
Water camellias so that they are consistently moist. Dry periods that occur during bud development result in fewer flowers with a lower petal count. Drought-stressed plants also open the door to spider mite infestation. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and stifle weeds.
Temperature and Humidity
Camellias are reliably hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9, although the fall-blooming ‘Winter’ series and spring-blooming ‘April’ series of camellias are hardy in zone 6B. Gardeners in cold climates can increase the chances of their camellias surviving the winter by carefully selecting their permanent site in the landscape. A northern-facing planting has an advantage over a warmer southern area. Southern locations may cause the plant to break dormancy too early, resulting in the loss of flowers to frost damage. A north-facing site combined with a building, hedge, or fence that acts as a windbreak will give cold climate gardeners the best success rate.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilization is essential for a large flower count. Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer in July to facilitate petal development. Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring to keep foliage dark green and lush. You can also shop for fertilizers designed explicitly for camellias or even an azalea fertilizer.
Camellia Varieties
'April Dawn': Hardy in zone 6; the white flowers are streaked with pink
'Elfin Rose': Pale pink blooms that appear in October and November
'Fragrant Pink': Small pink flower clusters with a sweet fragrance that is especially obvious on warm winter days
'Francis Eugene Phillips': Highly sought after for ornamental fringed foliage and its ruffled pink flowers
'Yuletide': Features red blooms on a compact, four-foot-tall shrub
Pruning should be kept at a minimum with camellias, as it can ruin the shrub's natural shape. Prune camellias after flowering to keep the interior of the shrubs free of dead and non-blooming branches. Remove any branches that droop on the ground.
Propagating Camellias
Camellias can be propagated by seeds, but it can take quite a long time to grow mature plants. It's more common to propagate by layering.
In summer, bend a long stem down to the ground and make an angled nick in it. Loop the stem into the soil, so the wounded area is buried in the ground, and use a rock or stiff wire to hold it in place in the soil. Over the course of a full growing season, a good network of roots should develop from the wound in the buried stem. At this point, you can clip it away from the parent plant and dig up the offspring to move elsewhere.
How to Grow Camellia From Seed
Camellias do not come true from seed, at least, very rarely. Camellia seeds ripen at different times depending on variety and location, but it's usually in the early fall. When seeds are mature, the pod begins to crack slightly and seeds are ready to be picked. If you have seeds, soak the seed for 12 hours or carefully crack the hard coat to aid in germination. Plant in good soil, peat moss, or a combination of peat moss and sand. Keep the soil damp. Seeds usually germinate in one month if planted immediately after harvesting. Some seeds may not germinate until spring. Better germination will occur when seeds are planted immediately upon ripening.
Potting or Repotting Camellias
Once the seeds have germinated, transplant into containers or outside. Cut off the taproot to produce a more fibrous root system. This step is helpful if planting in a container. If planting in a landscape, the taproot will help the plant survive during periods of drought or severe cold.
Overwintering
Camellia is an evergreen shrub that blooms in the winter in the South, where the winters are mild. If you have camellia in a container and you live in cooler climates, ensure that the soil and root systems are protected from freezing solid. Dry leaves and pine straw can be used as an excellent source of insulation; mound them around and over the top, fully covering the container and soil. If you live in a colder climate, such as zone 7 or lower, keep the pot covered until spring. If you expect extreme cold or a prolonged cold snap, protect the plant by creating a burlap or canvas fence around it. Fill the space with leaves.
Camellias are evergreens with dark, glossy leaves. Flowers may be white, pink, red, or streaked, and blooms can be single or double. It is popularly used in shrub borders, backgrounds, and loose hedges. Camellia can be used as an espalier specimen—training the shrub to grow flat against a fence or wall. Camellias stand for faithfulness and longevity in the language of flowers and are a lush addition to winter wedding floral arrangements.
Although the plant is an indigenous species in the Philippines, the flower became commonly named for Moravian Jesuit priest Brother Josef Kamel, a botanist, pharmacist, and missionary who classified plants in the Philippines.
Botanical Name Camellia spp.
Common Names Camellia
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2 to 12 feet (depending on variety)
Sun Exposure Part shade
Soil Type Moist, rich soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (acidic)
Bloom Time Late fall, winter, and early spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, yellow, or lavender
Hardiness Zones 7 to 9 (USDA); a few varieties hardy in zone 6B
Native Area Japan, China, Korea
Camellia Care
Camellias are best planted in rich, moist soil in a part-shade location. If planting multiple camellia shrubs, space them at least 5 feet apart. They do not like to compete for water and nutrients with trees in close proximity. Know the mature size of your camellia, and plan accordingly if planting close to a window or home foundation. You do not need to amend the backfill soil at planting time, instead, rake compost or well-rotted manure into the top few inches of the soil.
If your camellia develops yellow leaves, inspect the undersides of leaves for tea scale, an insect pest that feeds on leaf juices. Although the leaves will appear yellow on top, the undersides will look white or fuzzy. Treat tea scale with horticultural oil. An iron deficiency can also cause yellow leaves. Test your soil, and feed your camellias with an iron supplement if needed.
Light
Camellias thrive in part shade. Camellia sasanqua cultivars can take more sun than japonica types.
Soil
Camellias require well-drained soil, and an ideal soil pH for camellias is within the 6.0 to 6.5 range. If your soil is dense clay and doesn't drain well, use containers instead. Choose at least an 18-inch container and a rich, loamy potting soil.
Water
Water camellias so that they are consistently moist. Dry periods that occur during bud development result in fewer flowers with a lower petal count. Drought-stressed plants also open the door to spider mite infestation. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and stifle weeds.
Temperature and Humidity
Camellias are reliably hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9, although the fall-blooming ‘Winter’ series and spring-blooming ‘April’ series of camellias are hardy in zone 6B. Gardeners in cold climates can increase the chances of their camellias surviving the winter by carefully selecting their permanent site in the landscape. A northern-facing planting has an advantage over a warmer southern area. Southern locations may cause the plant to break dormancy too early, resulting in the loss of flowers to frost damage. A north-facing site combined with a building, hedge, or fence that acts as a windbreak will give cold climate gardeners the best success rate.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilization is essential for a large flower count. Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer in July to facilitate petal development. Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring to keep foliage dark green and lush. You can also shop for fertilizers designed explicitly for camellias or even an azalea fertilizer.
Camellia Varieties
'April Dawn': Hardy in zone 6; the white flowers are streaked with pink
'Elfin Rose': Pale pink blooms that appear in October and November
'Fragrant Pink': Small pink flower clusters with a sweet fragrance that is especially obvious on warm winter days
'Francis Eugene Phillips': Highly sought after for ornamental fringed foliage and its ruffled pink flowers
'Yuletide': Features red blooms on a compact, four-foot-tall shrub
Pruning should be kept at a minimum with camellias, as it can ruin the shrub's natural shape. Prune camellias after flowering to keep the interior of the shrubs free of dead and non-blooming branches. Remove any branches that droop on the ground.
Propagating Camellias
Camellias can be propagated by seeds, but it can take quite a long time to grow mature plants. It's more common to propagate by layering.
In summer, bend a long stem down to the ground and make an angled nick in it. Loop the stem into the soil, so the wounded area is buried in the ground, and use a rock or stiff wire to hold it in place in the soil. Over the course of a full growing season, a good network of roots should develop from the wound in the buried stem. At this point, you can clip it away from the parent plant and dig up the offspring to move elsewhere.
How to Grow Camellia From Seed
Camellias do not come true from seed, at least, very rarely. Camellia seeds ripen at different times depending on variety and location, but it's usually in the early fall. When seeds are mature, the pod begins to crack slightly and seeds are ready to be picked. If you have seeds, soak the seed for 12 hours or carefully crack the hard coat to aid in germination. Plant in good soil, peat moss, or a combination of peat moss and sand. Keep the soil damp. Seeds usually germinate in one month if planted immediately after harvesting. Some seeds may not germinate until spring. Better germination will occur when seeds are planted immediately upon ripening.
Potting or Repotting Camellias
Once the seeds have germinated, transplant into containers or outside. Cut off the taproot to produce a more fibrous root system. This step is helpful if planting in a container. If planting in a landscape, the taproot will help the plant survive during periods of drought or severe cold.
Overwintering
Camellia is an evergreen shrub that blooms in the winter in the South, where the winters are mild. If you have camellia in a container and you live in cooler climates, ensure that the soil and root systems are protected from freezing solid. Dry leaves and pine straw can be used as an excellent source of insulation; mound them around and over the top, fully covering the container and soil. If you live in a colder climate, such as zone 7 or lower, keep the pot covered until spring. If you expect extreme cold or a prolonged cold snap, protect the plant by creating a burlap or canvas fence around it. Fill the space with leaves.
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文章
ritau
2020年04月05日
The peony or paeony is a flowering plant in the genus Paeonia, the only genus in the family Paeoniaceae. Peonies are native to Asia, Europe and Western North America. Scientists differ on the number of species that can be distinguished, ranging from 25 to 40, although the current consensus is 33 known species. The relationships between the species need to be further clarified.
Peonies are among the most popular garden plants in temperate regions. Herbaceous peonies are also sold as cut flowers on a large scale, although generally only available in late spring and early summer. An emerging source of peonies in mid to late summer is the Alaskan market. Unique growing conditions due to long hours of sunlight create availability from Alaska when other sources have completed harvest.
The peony is among the longest-used flowers in Eastern culture. Along with the plum blossom, it is a traditional floral symbol of China, where the Paeonia suffruticosa is called 牡丹 (mǔdān). It is also known as 富貴花 (fùguìhuā) "flower of riches and honour" or 花王 (huawang) "king of the flowers", and is used symbolically in Chinese art. In 1903, the Qing dynasty declared the peony as the national flower. Currently, the Republic of China government in Taiwan designates the plum blossom as the national flower, while the People's Republic of China government has no legally designated national flower. In 1994, the peony was proposed as the national flower after a nationwide poll, but the National People's Congress failed to ratify the selection. In 2003, another selection process was initiated, but no choice has been made to date.
The ancient Chinese city Luoyang has a reputation as a cultivation centre for the peonies. Throughout Chinese history, peonies in Luoyang have been said to be the finest in the country. Dozens of peony exhibitions and shows are still held there annually.
In the Middle Ages, peonies were often painted with their ripe seed-capsules, since it was the seeds, not the flowers, which were medically significant. Ancient superstition dictated that great care be taken not to be seen by a woodpecker while picking the plant's fruit, or the bird might peck out one's eyes.
In 1957, the Indiana General Assembly passed a law to make the peony the state flower of Indiana, a title which it holds to this day. It replaced the zinnia, which had been the state flower since 1931.
Mischievous nymphs were said to hide in the petals of the Peony, giving it the meaning of Shame or Bashfulness in the Language of Flowers. While the peony takes several years to re-establish itself when moved, it blooms annually for decades once it has done so.
Peonies tend to attract ants to the flower buds. This is due to the nectar that forms on the outside of the flower buds, and is not required for the plants' own pollination or other growth. The presence of ants is thought to provide some deterrence to other harmful insects though, so the production of ant-attracting nectar is plausibly a functional adaptation.Peonies are a common subject in tattoos, often used along with koi-fish. The popular use of peonies in Japanese tattoo was inspired by the ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi's illustrations of Suikoden, a classical Chinese novel. His paintings of warrior-heroes covered in pictorial tattoos included lions, tigers, dragons, koi fish, and peonies, among other symbols. The peony became a masculine motif, associated with a devil-may-care attitude and disregard for consequence.
Famous painters of peonies have included Conrad Gessner (ca. 1550) and Auguste Renoir in 1879. Paeonia officinalis can be found in the altar picture of Maria im Rosenhag by Schongauer in the former Dominican Church in Colmar.The Italian Jesuit, painter and architect Giuseppe Castiglione (1688-1766), who worked at the court of the Qianlong Emperor in the Qing dynasty, painted peonies.
Peonies are among the most popular garden plants in temperate regions. Herbaceous peonies are also sold as cut flowers on a large scale, although generally only available in late spring and early summer. An emerging source of peonies in mid to late summer is the Alaskan market. Unique growing conditions due to long hours of sunlight create availability from Alaska when other sources have completed harvest.
The peony is among the longest-used flowers in Eastern culture. Along with the plum blossom, it is a traditional floral symbol of China, where the Paeonia suffruticosa is called 牡丹 (mǔdān). It is also known as 富貴花 (fùguìhuā) "flower of riches and honour" or 花王 (huawang) "king of the flowers", and is used symbolically in Chinese art. In 1903, the Qing dynasty declared the peony as the national flower. Currently, the Republic of China government in Taiwan designates the plum blossom as the national flower, while the People's Republic of China government has no legally designated national flower. In 1994, the peony was proposed as the national flower after a nationwide poll, but the National People's Congress failed to ratify the selection. In 2003, another selection process was initiated, but no choice has been made to date.
The ancient Chinese city Luoyang has a reputation as a cultivation centre for the peonies. Throughout Chinese history, peonies in Luoyang have been said to be the finest in the country. Dozens of peony exhibitions and shows are still held there annually.
In the Middle Ages, peonies were often painted with their ripe seed-capsules, since it was the seeds, not the flowers, which were medically significant. Ancient superstition dictated that great care be taken not to be seen by a woodpecker while picking the plant's fruit, or the bird might peck out one's eyes.
In 1957, the Indiana General Assembly passed a law to make the peony the state flower of Indiana, a title which it holds to this day. It replaced the zinnia, which had been the state flower since 1931.
Mischievous nymphs were said to hide in the petals of the Peony, giving it the meaning of Shame or Bashfulness in the Language of Flowers. While the peony takes several years to re-establish itself when moved, it blooms annually for decades once it has done so.
Peonies tend to attract ants to the flower buds. This is due to the nectar that forms on the outside of the flower buds, and is not required for the plants' own pollination or other growth. The presence of ants is thought to provide some deterrence to other harmful insects though, so the production of ant-attracting nectar is plausibly a functional adaptation.Peonies are a common subject in tattoos, often used along with koi-fish. The popular use of peonies in Japanese tattoo was inspired by the ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi's illustrations of Suikoden, a classical Chinese novel. His paintings of warrior-heroes covered in pictorial tattoos included lions, tigers, dragons, koi fish, and peonies, among other symbols. The peony became a masculine motif, associated with a devil-may-care attitude and disregard for consequence.
Famous painters of peonies have included Conrad Gessner (ca. 1550) and Auguste Renoir in 1879. Paeonia officinalis can be found in the altar picture of Maria im Rosenhag by Schongauer in the former Dominican Church in Colmar.The Italian Jesuit, painter and architect Giuseppe Castiglione (1688-1766), who worked at the court of the Qianlong Emperor in the Qing dynasty, painted peonies.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Peonies (Paeonia spp.) can grow well in containers. Common garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, are herbaceous perennials that die down in fall. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa, USDA zones 4 through 8) are woody shrubs. Select containers that complement your garden's style, such as metal containers for contemporary gardens, faded terracotta for Mediterranean gardens, or decorative clay pots for cottage gardens.
Containers for Growing Peonies
Peonies need large containers with drainage holes. Peony root balls are large, and their containers should fit the root balls without crushing them, plus another inch or two of space around root balls' sides and bases. A 5-gallon container is usually large enough for one peony.
Most frost-proof containers are suitable, including clay, wood and plastic. Common garden peonies don't tolerate transplanting well, and tree peonies are slow-growing, so both plants should stay in their containers for three or four years. Heavy containers such as clay help prevent tree peonies from blowing over in strong winds, but dry out quickly compared to wood and plastic containers. Wood containers made of cypress or cedar are rot-resistant.
Sites and Potting Soils
Full-sun or partially shaded sites are best for growing peonies, and the plants need organically-rich, well-draining potting soil. These large plants are heavy and difficult to move, so choose your growing site well, or place the pots on boards with wheels.
A mixture of soilless potting soil and well-rotted manure or rich garden compost is suitable for growing peonies. You can buy commercial soilless potting soil or you can mix your own using 1 part sphagnum peat moss and 1 part perlite or vermiculite. Mix 2 shovels of potting soil with 1 shovel of manure or compost, and fill the containers with this mixture. Every spring, when new growth appears on the peonies, scrape the loose potting soil mixture from the surface of the containers and replace it with fresh mixture.
Water and Fertilizer
Peonies in containers need more water and fertilizer than plants in the ground. Water the peonies when the soil surface is dry. Slowly pour water over the potting soil until it appears through the drainage holes in the base of the container. In hot weather, peonies may need watering once or more per day.
Fertilize peonies in pots once every month while the plants are in leaf. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and apply the solution to the potting soil. You can replace water with fertilizer solution if the peonies need watering. Manufacturer's instructions vary between products, so read and follow the instructions on the label.
Frost Protection
An advantage of growing peonies in containers is that you can move them indoors to protect them from frosts. Freezing temperatures can damage peonies and affect flowering in the following season.
When common garden peonies have died down and tree peonies have lost all their leaves, move the containers to an unheated indoor area, such as a garage. Water the containers when the soil surface is dry to a depth of 1 inch. The peonies aren't growing and using water at this time. It's important not to water so much that the potting soil becomes soggy, which can cause rotting. Move the containers outdoors again when new growth appears in spring.
Containers for Growing Peonies
Peonies need large containers with drainage holes. Peony root balls are large, and their containers should fit the root balls without crushing them, plus another inch or two of space around root balls' sides and bases. A 5-gallon container is usually large enough for one peony.
Most frost-proof containers are suitable, including clay, wood and plastic. Common garden peonies don't tolerate transplanting well, and tree peonies are slow-growing, so both plants should stay in their containers for three or four years. Heavy containers such as clay help prevent tree peonies from blowing over in strong winds, but dry out quickly compared to wood and plastic containers. Wood containers made of cypress or cedar are rot-resistant.
Sites and Potting Soils
Full-sun or partially shaded sites are best for growing peonies, and the plants need organically-rich, well-draining potting soil. These large plants are heavy and difficult to move, so choose your growing site well, or place the pots on boards with wheels.
A mixture of soilless potting soil and well-rotted manure or rich garden compost is suitable for growing peonies. You can buy commercial soilless potting soil or you can mix your own using 1 part sphagnum peat moss and 1 part perlite or vermiculite. Mix 2 shovels of potting soil with 1 shovel of manure or compost, and fill the containers with this mixture. Every spring, when new growth appears on the peonies, scrape the loose potting soil mixture from the surface of the containers and replace it with fresh mixture.
Water and Fertilizer
Peonies in containers need more water and fertilizer than plants in the ground. Water the peonies when the soil surface is dry. Slowly pour water over the potting soil until it appears through the drainage holes in the base of the container. In hot weather, peonies may need watering once or more per day.
Fertilize peonies in pots once every month while the plants are in leaf. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and apply the solution to the potting soil. You can replace water with fertilizer solution if the peonies need watering. Manufacturer's instructions vary between products, so read and follow the instructions on the label.
Frost Protection
An advantage of growing peonies in containers is that you can move them indoors to protect them from frosts. Freezing temperatures can damage peonies and affect flowering in the following season.
When common garden peonies have died down and tree peonies have lost all their leaves, move the containers to an unheated indoor area, such as a garage. Water the containers when the soil surface is dry to a depth of 1 inch. The peonies aren't growing and using water at this time. It's important not to water so much that the potting soil becomes soggy, which can cause rotting. Move the containers outdoors again when new growth appears in spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
For a colorful, showy display of flowers, few plants out-perform the peony (Paeonia spp.), a perennial that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, with some variation among the different varieties. Although most peonies are attractive even when not in bloom, it can be discouraging when a plant fails to bloom or produces only a few flowers. Giving a peony some extra care or making a few adjustments can help prevent or correct this problem.
Plant Maturity and Depth
A peony might not bloom simply because it's too immature; in that case, all you need to do is wait a while to see flowers. If you've recently planted a new, nursery-grown peony, it may take several years to reach a size and maturity that can support flowering. It could take even longer to see flowers -- up to four or five years -- if you've grown the plant from seed. If you're dividing a larger plant to make new plants, the number of dormant buds, or "eyes," on each new division can also influence the length of time before flowers appear. To speed flowering by these new plants, make large divisions with at least three to five eyes each. Planting peonies too deeply can also inhibit flowering, so position new plants or divisions so buds are no more than 1 or 2 inches below the soil surface.
Correct Fertilizer
Although peonies benefit from rich soil that contains a good supply of nutrients, it's important to feed the plants properly and not use too much nitrogen, which can promote growth of stems and leaves at the expense of flowers. For best results, select a granular, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, applying it at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planted area. Apply the fertilizer once per season in the spring, when the plant's stems are about 3 inches tall, working it carefully into the ground. Keep fertilizer away from the plant's stems to prevent burning, and don't disturb tender new shoots; water the fertilizer in well.
Sun and Other Issues
Peonies need abundant light to set flower buds, so pick a planting site that gets at least six or more hours of full sun daily; a spot that gets too much shade can result in few or no flowers. If you have a peony that's recently stopped blooming, this could be because other nearby plants have become large and block the peony's access to light. Prune back surrounding plants as needed to give the peony more light, or consider relocating the peony to a brighter spot. Removing leaves and stems as you tidy the garden during the summer can also contribute to poor flowering because this weakens the plant and interferes with its ability to store energy for the next year. Delay cleanup until fall, when the plant's growth has slowed and foliage is wilted and partly dry.
Disease Control
Sometimes you might see flower buds develop on a peony plant that don't enlarge, and they eventually dry up and drop off the plant. This can indicate the presence of a fungal disorder such as blight or leaf blotch that stops the bud from producing a flower. These diseases might also cause black spots on leaves and stems. They are best prevented by keeping foliage as dry as possible, so water only at the plant's base on sunny days, and cut peonies back to the ground in late fall, removing all plant debris that can harbor fungal microorganisms. Wear gloves and clean pruning blades in rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
Plant Maturity and Depth
A peony might not bloom simply because it's too immature; in that case, all you need to do is wait a while to see flowers. If you've recently planted a new, nursery-grown peony, it may take several years to reach a size and maturity that can support flowering. It could take even longer to see flowers -- up to four or five years -- if you've grown the plant from seed. If you're dividing a larger plant to make new plants, the number of dormant buds, or "eyes," on each new division can also influence the length of time before flowers appear. To speed flowering by these new plants, make large divisions with at least three to five eyes each. Planting peonies too deeply can also inhibit flowering, so position new plants or divisions so buds are no more than 1 or 2 inches below the soil surface.
Correct Fertilizer
Although peonies benefit from rich soil that contains a good supply of nutrients, it's important to feed the plants properly and not use too much nitrogen, which can promote growth of stems and leaves at the expense of flowers. For best results, select a granular, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, applying it at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planted area. Apply the fertilizer once per season in the spring, when the plant's stems are about 3 inches tall, working it carefully into the ground. Keep fertilizer away from the plant's stems to prevent burning, and don't disturb tender new shoots; water the fertilizer in well.
Sun and Other Issues
Peonies need abundant light to set flower buds, so pick a planting site that gets at least six or more hours of full sun daily; a spot that gets too much shade can result in few or no flowers. If you have a peony that's recently stopped blooming, this could be because other nearby plants have become large and block the peony's access to light. Prune back surrounding plants as needed to give the peony more light, or consider relocating the peony to a brighter spot. Removing leaves and stems as you tidy the garden during the summer can also contribute to poor flowering because this weakens the plant and interferes with its ability to store energy for the next year. Delay cleanup until fall, when the plant's growth has slowed and foliage is wilted and partly dry.
Disease Control
Sometimes you might see flower buds develop on a peony plant that don't enlarge, and they eventually dry up and drop off the plant. This can indicate the presence of a fungal disorder such as blight or leaf blotch that stops the bud from producing a flower. These diseases might also cause black spots on leaves and stems. They are best prevented by keeping foliage as dry as possible, so water only at the plant's base on sunny days, and cut peonies back to the ground in late fall, removing all plant debris that can harbor fungal microorganisms. Wear gloves and clean pruning blades in rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
The large, showy blooms of peonies tempt many gardeners to include them in a landscape. Peonies (Paeonia spp.) grow native in a wide variety of locations, including meadows and rocky ares. They typically prefer cool weather, but adapt readily to different garden conditions in Texas if properly cared for.
Best Locations
Different peony species require different growing conditions. Herbaceous garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) need at least six hours of full sun a day to bloom. In warm locations, afternoon sun helps prevent the flowers from fading. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) prefer dappled shade. They do need part sun conditions to bloom, but must be protected from afternoon sunlight. Tree peonies and garden peonies also grow in different hardiness zones. Texas covers U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Tree peonies are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and can be grown throughout the state. Garden peonies are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, and will not grow in the southern plains and parts of the Gulf Coast.
Planting Tips
Peonies need deep, fertile soil that is well-drained but stays moist. In parts of Texas where soils are either dry and sandy or hard clay, amend the soil with well-rotted manure, compost or finely ground pine bark before planting. To do this, spread the organic matter 1 to 2 inches thick across the soil and then work it in to a depth of 12 inches. Garden peonies are typically sold bare-root. Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches deep and wide, then mound soil up in the middle of the hole to make a cone shape. Spread the roots out over the cone so that the swollen pink or reddish buds at the top of the plant are no more than 1 inch below the soil surface once the roots are covered. Plant tree peonies the same way, making sure the graft union is an inch below ground level. Space both types of peonies 3 to 4 feet apart. Both garden and tree peonies do best when planted in late summer or early fall, which gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter sets in without the stress of hot weather.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizing at planting time is optional. If you choose to fertilize, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of dry, granular fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 to the bottom of the hole for each plant. It should not touch plant roots, so place it before making the cone of soil. You can also add 1/2 cup of bone meal or superphosphate at the same time. On a yearly basis, fertilize peonies with a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. In the spring, when stems are 2 or 3 inches high, apply this fertilizer at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet, or 1/2 cup per plant. Don't let the fertilizer touch plant stems, and be sure to follow label directions.
Watering Peonies
Water peonies thoroughly after planting, then often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy for the first year. It is better to water deeply rather than frequently, since deep watering encourages deep root systems. If watering causes run-off, give the water time to soak into the soil and them come back and finish watering. Once peonies are established, they need about an inch of water per week during the growing season. In dry areas of Texas, water peonies every week if there has been less than an inch of rain. If plants start to wilt during hot Texas summers, you can water more than an inch a week, or enough to keep the soil moist. To help cool the roots and retain moisture, apply 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch in the spring, making sure it doesn't touch the crown of the plant.
Best Locations
Different peony species require different growing conditions. Herbaceous garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) need at least six hours of full sun a day to bloom. In warm locations, afternoon sun helps prevent the flowers from fading. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) prefer dappled shade. They do need part sun conditions to bloom, but must be protected from afternoon sunlight. Tree peonies and garden peonies also grow in different hardiness zones. Texas covers U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Tree peonies are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and can be grown throughout the state. Garden peonies are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, and will not grow in the southern plains and parts of the Gulf Coast.
Planting Tips
Peonies need deep, fertile soil that is well-drained but stays moist. In parts of Texas where soils are either dry and sandy or hard clay, amend the soil with well-rotted manure, compost or finely ground pine bark before planting. To do this, spread the organic matter 1 to 2 inches thick across the soil and then work it in to a depth of 12 inches. Garden peonies are typically sold bare-root. Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches deep and wide, then mound soil up in the middle of the hole to make a cone shape. Spread the roots out over the cone so that the swollen pink or reddish buds at the top of the plant are no more than 1 inch below the soil surface once the roots are covered. Plant tree peonies the same way, making sure the graft union is an inch below ground level. Space both types of peonies 3 to 4 feet apart. Both garden and tree peonies do best when planted in late summer or early fall, which gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter sets in without the stress of hot weather.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizing at planting time is optional. If you choose to fertilize, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of dry, granular fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 to the bottom of the hole for each plant. It should not touch plant roots, so place it before making the cone of soil. You can also add 1/2 cup of bone meal or superphosphate at the same time. On a yearly basis, fertilize peonies with a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. In the spring, when stems are 2 or 3 inches high, apply this fertilizer at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet, or 1/2 cup per plant. Don't let the fertilizer touch plant stems, and be sure to follow label directions.
Watering Peonies
Water peonies thoroughly after planting, then often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy for the first year. It is better to water deeply rather than frequently, since deep watering encourages deep root systems. If watering causes run-off, give the water time to soak into the soil and them come back and finish watering. Once peonies are established, they need about an inch of water per week during the growing season. In dry areas of Texas, water peonies every week if there has been less than an inch of rain. If plants start to wilt during hot Texas summers, you can water more than an inch a week, or enough to keep the soil moist. To help cool the roots and retain moisture, apply 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch in the spring, making sure it doesn't touch the crown of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Large, silken-textured flowers of many colors grace peony (Paeonia spp.) bushes during the spring. Fall care helps spring blooms, but how you should care for peonies in the fall depends on what type of peony you're growing. Most common is the non-woody herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. It dies back in fall and renews its growth from underground tubers each spring. Tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), growing in USDA zones 4 through 8, forms a deciduous woody shrub that remains in the garden year-round.
Cutting Back Foliage
If you have herbaceous peonies, remove all the old stems in late fall after the first frost turns the foliage yellow. Before cutting the stems, dip clean, sharp pruner blades in rubbing alcohol to lessen the chance of spreading disease. Discard all the cut foliage to prevent a fungal disease called botrytis blight or gray mold, which affects peonies and can survive the winter months in composted old stems.
Providing Winter Protection
Protect peonies from the winter cold, especially in colder areas of their hardiness zones. In late fall, give herbaceous perennials a mulch layer 2 to 3 inches thick, using an organic material such as shredded bark or straw. You can wait until after the ground freezes to apply mulch. For tree peonies in colder areas, such as zones 4 and 5, wrap the bush with burlap in late fall to provide protection against winds as well as cold temperatures.
Pruning Shrubs
Although tree peonies usually don't need much pruning, older bushes may become leggy. To renew the growth, prune the oldest tree peony branches back to the base in fall after the leaves drop. Clean the pruners with rubbing alcohol before pruning. However, if your tree peony is grafted rather than growing on its own roots, it's best not to do renewal pruning. Instead, moderately cut back some of the lower branches to fill out the base of the bush.
Fertilizing Peonies
If you want to use an organic fertilizer such as aged compost or aged manure, in late fall add a 2-inch-thick layer of either material on top of the soil around established peony bushes. If you use inorganic fertilizers, wait until spring.
Moving Plants
If you need to relocate either herbaceous or tree peonies, fall is the best time. Carefully dig around and then under the roots, taking care not to damage the fleshy tubers. Lever the peony out of the ground, disturbing the root mass as little as possible. Transplant it in the new location, which should be in sun with well-draining, rich soil. Keep the plant at its original soil level, and water it well.
Dividing Plants
Large, established herbaceous peonies can be divided in the fall to renew growth or to make new plants, although clumps can grow in place for 40 or 50 years without division. To divide a plant, cut back the foliage, and then carefully dig up the peony and shake or wash the dirt away from the root system. Use a sharp knife cleaned with rubbing alcohol and cut the clump into divisions, each holding three to five eyes and several roots. Eyes are the buds on top of the crown that grow into new stems. Replant each piece in its new garden location, placing the buds 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Water the divisions thoroughly.
Cutting Back Foliage
If you have herbaceous peonies, remove all the old stems in late fall after the first frost turns the foliage yellow. Before cutting the stems, dip clean, sharp pruner blades in rubbing alcohol to lessen the chance of spreading disease. Discard all the cut foliage to prevent a fungal disease called botrytis blight or gray mold, which affects peonies and can survive the winter months in composted old stems.
Providing Winter Protection
Protect peonies from the winter cold, especially in colder areas of their hardiness zones. In late fall, give herbaceous perennials a mulch layer 2 to 3 inches thick, using an organic material such as shredded bark or straw. You can wait until after the ground freezes to apply mulch. For tree peonies in colder areas, such as zones 4 and 5, wrap the bush with burlap in late fall to provide protection against winds as well as cold temperatures.
Pruning Shrubs
Although tree peonies usually don't need much pruning, older bushes may become leggy. To renew the growth, prune the oldest tree peony branches back to the base in fall after the leaves drop. Clean the pruners with rubbing alcohol before pruning. However, if your tree peony is grafted rather than growing on its own roots, it's best not to do renewal pruning. Instead, moderately cut back some of the lower branches to fill out the base of the bush.
Fertilizing Peonies
If you want to use an organic fertilizer such as aged compost or aged manure, in late fall add a 2-inch-thick layer of either material on top of the soil around established peony bushes. If you use inorganic fertilizers, wait until spring.
Moving Plants
If you need to relocate either herbaceous or tree peonies, fall is the best time. Carefully dig around and then under the roots, taking care not to damage the fleshy tubers. Lever the peony out of the ground, disturbing the root mass as little as possible. Transplant it in the new location, which should be in sun with well-draining, rich soil. Keep the plant at its original soil level, and water it well.
Dividing Plants
Large, established herbaceous peonies can be divided in the fall to renew growth or to make new plants, although clumps can grow in place for 40 or 50 years without division. To divide a plant, cut back the foliage, and then carefully dig up the peony and shake or wash the dirt away from the root system. Use a sharp knife cleaned with rubbing alcohol and cut the clump into divisions, each holding three to five eyes and several roots. Eyes are the buds on top of the crown that grow into new stems. Replant each piece in its new garden location, placing the buds 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Water the divisions thoroughly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
How to plant and grow peonies, one of the most carefree of all perennials
PEONIES are one of the best-known and most dearly loved perennials. This is hardly surprising considering their sumptuous beauty and fragrance, trouble-free nature and longevity. Peonies also thrive almost anywhere in the country. Many varieties can even survive a zone 2 winter (that's a low of -50 degrees F).
If a peony is well situated and happy, it may bloom for 100 years or more with little or no attention. This means it's worth spending some time up front, choosing the right planting location and preparing the soil. That said, there are many stories about forgotten peony plants found blooming in the woods against old cellar holes. But like all plants, peonies will be healthier, more vigorous and more floriferous if they have ideal growing conditions.
Peonies prefer a sunny location with well-drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant is also important. These growing conditions help peonies avoid their only serious disease problem: botrytis. Like other fungal diseases, botrytis is present in most soils. It usually only becomes a problem if the plant is weak, the weather is unusually cool and wet, or if there are other infected plants nearby. Signs of botrytis are blackened buds and stems, and sometimes rotting at the base of the plant. Cut off and dispose of any affected areas (put this material in the trash, not in your compost pile). The best strategy for botrytis problems is prevention, and that goes back to proper planting.
A special note for gardeners in the warm climates: Peonies will be more robust and their blooms will last longer if the plants receive some shade during the hottest part of the day. Peonies are an iffy prospect in warm zones, and impossible in some. To find out of they can be grown in your area, check with a good gardener in the neighborhood or your cooperative extension.
To prepare the planting hole for a bareroot peony, dig the soil to a depth of 12-18". Use a garden fork to loosen the sides of the planting hole as well. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of an all-purpose, organic, granular fertilizer, to the bottom of the hole and then add a shovelful of the original soil. Build up a "cone" of this amended soil inside the planting hole and then position the peony root on top of the cone with its roots hanging down the sides. It is very important that the "eyes", or growth nodes, located near the base of the old stem, end up no more than 2" below the soil surface. If the peony root is positioned deeper than this, the plant may grow well, but it will produce few if any blooms. Container-grown plants can be planted similarly. Just dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Amend the soil as above. When planting, make sure the soil surface in the pot is at grade when the new plant is in the ground.
Peonies rarely bloom the first year after planting. It often takes three years before you see an abundant display of flowers. But once the plants do start blooming, you can look forward to a lifetime of beautiful flowers. Peony plants rarely need dividing. If a clump becomes too large for a given space, or you wish to share some of the plant with a friend, fall is the ideal time for dividing. Cut back the foliage and carefully lift the entire plant out of the ground. Use a sharp knife to cut apart some of the plant, making sure to create generous clumps of roots with at least three to five eyes per clump. Reposition the original plant back in the hole, taking care not to break off any of the relatively brittle roots or leave large pockets of air in the planting hole. Water until you are sure the moisture has reached the bottom of the hole and that the soil has settled around the roots. Plants that have been divided in the fall may not bloom the following spring, but will return to normal the next season.
A yearly application of organic, all-purpose fertilizer and a top-dressing of compost is all a peony requires for good health. If you mulch your flower beds, be sure to keep the mulch away from the base your peonies. If the base is covered with mulch, the plant reacts as if it has been planted too deep, and will produce few, if any, flowers.
Depending on the variety and the growing conditions, you'll probably want to provide your peonies with some support when the flowers are in bloom. This is especially true for the double or "bomb"-style blossoms, which can become waterlogged and very heavy. The supports should be positioned early in the growing season, before the plants get more than a few inches high. Once the plant has filled out, and especially when it's in bloom, it is nearly impossible to set up an effective support system.
There are hundreds of peony varieties on the market today, from heirloom favorites that have been enjoyed for centuries, to exciting new colors (peach, coral, yellow), interesting flower forms (spiders, singles and semi-doubles), and different heights and bloom times. You might also want to try your hand at growing tree peonies, which bloom earlier than herbaceous peonies, have larger blossoms and can grow up to 6 feet tall.
Frequently Asked Questions
How come my peonies don't bloom?
Failure to bloom is usually caused by two things: improper planting and/or insufficient light. When planting peonies, make sure to plant the eyes (the point at which new growth emerges) no more than two inches deep. Also make sure your plants get plenty of sun — 6 or more hours a day. If they're planted in a shady site, they will not flower well — if at all.
Also note that newly planted peonies usually don't flower the first year, which is spent developing a good root system and foliage. By the second spring after planting, you should see your first blooms.
What are tree peonies?
Although tree peonies are related to regular (herbaceous) peonies, they are much larger, reaching up to 6 feet. Their form is actually more like a shrub than a tree. In colder zones, they will not grow as tall — 3 or 4 feet is typical. Plants bloom just before the regular peonies; flowers are equally fragrant.
Can peonies be divided?
Yes. Unlike most perennials, peonies rarely need to be divided. The only reason to do it is to get more plants — or share them with friends. It's best done in the fall. Dig up the clump and use a sharp tool to divide it into sections, keeping three to five eyes in each division. Be sure to water the transplants thoroughly, unless you get plenty of rainfall. Keep in mind that divisions (and transplants) might not begin blooming again for two or three years.
Ants are crawling all over my peony buds. Are they going to eat the flowers?
No. These insects are merely enjoying the sugary syrup produced by the buds and are doing no harm to the plant.
The foliage on my peony has blackened and wilted. What can I do?
Peonies suffer from very few pest and disease problems. Nevertheless, they sometimes get fungal diseases, such as botrytis blight, which you describe. Other similar problems include blackened and/or rotten stems, withered buds, gray mold near the base of the plant. In all cases, remove and destroy the infected plant parts. Make sure the plants aren't getting overwatered; avoid sites with poorly drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant will also minimize fungal problems. Powdery mildew can be a problem near the foundation of a house, where there is lots of roof runoff and splashing. Consider moving the plant to another location if you see powdery mildew every year. To prevent problems, do a thorough clean-up after fall frosts. Cut the stems to 3" from the ground and clear away the foliage.
We recently moved to Florida and want to grow peonies like we did in Connecticut. Is there a way we can do it?
Unfortunately, you cannot grow peonies successfully in Florida, southern California and most of the deep south. Zone 8 is the warmest zone for peonies. And if you're growing them in zone 8, it's wise to check locally to see which varieties are known to thrive.
My peonies are gorgeous, but when it rains, the flowers bend to the ground. How can I prevent this?
The best solution is a grow-through support, which helps keep the top-heavy blooms upright. Ring supports will also work, but they aren't quite as "invisible" as the grids. Be sure to put the grids in place in early spring — before the plants are more than a few inches tall.
PEONIES are one of the best-known and most dearly loved perennials. This is hardly surprising considering their sumptuous beauty and fragrance, trouble-free nature and longevity. Peonies also thrive almost anywhere in the country. Many varieties can even survive a zone 2 winter (that's a low of -50 degrees F).
If a peony is well situated and happy, it may bloom for 100 years or more with little or no attention. This means it's worth spending some time up front, choosing the right planting location and preparing the soil. That said, there are many stories about forgotten peony plants found blooming in the woods against old cellar holes. But like all plants, peonies will be healthier, more vigorous and more floriferous if they have ideal growing conditions.
Peonies prefer a sunny location with well-drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant is also important. These growing conditions help peonies avoid their only serious disease problem: botrytis. Like other fungal diseases, botrytis is present in most soils. It usually only becomes a problem if the plant is weak, the weather is unusually cool and wet, or if there are other infected plants nearby. Signs of botrytis are blackened buds and stems, and sometimes rotting at the base of the plant. Cut off and dispose of any affected areas (put this material in the trash, not in your compost pile). The best strategy for botrytis problems is prevention, and that goes back to proper planting.
A special note for gardeners in the warm climates: Peonies will be more robust and their blooms will last longer if the plants receive some shade during the hottest part of the day. Peonies are an iffy prospect in warm zones, and impossible in some. To find out of they can be grown in your area, check with a good gardener in the neighborhood or your cooperative extension.
To prepare the planting hole for a bareroot peony, dig the soil to a depth of 12-18". Use a garden fork to loosen the sides of the planting hole as well. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of an all-purpose, organic, granular fertilizer, to the bottom of the hole and then add a shovelful of the original soil. Build up a "cone" of this amended soil inside the planting hole and then position the peony root on top of the cone with its roots hanging down the sides. It is very important that the "eyes", or growth nodes, located near the base of the old stem, end up no more than 2" below the soil surface. If the peony root is positioned deeper than this, the plant may grow well, but it will produce few if any blooms. Container-grown plants can be planted similarly. Just dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Amend the soil as above. When planting, make sure the soil surface in the pot is at grade when the new plant is in the ground.
Peonies rarely bloom the first year after planting. It often takes three years before you see an abundant display of flowers. But once the plants do start blooming, you can look forward to a lifetime of beautiful flowers. Peony plants rarely need dividing. If a clump becomes too large for a given space, or you wish to share some of the plant with a friend, fall is the ideal time for dividing. Cut back the foliage and carefully lift the entire plant out of the ground. Use a sharp knife to cut apart some of the plant, making sure to create generous clumps of roots with at least three to five eyes per clump. Reposition the original plant back in the hole, taking care not to break off any of the relatively brittle roots or leave large pockets of air in the planting hole. Water until you are sure the moisture has reached the bottom of the hole and that the soil has settled around the roots. Plants that have been divided in the fall may not bloom the following spring, but will return to normal the next season.
A yearly application of organic, all-purpose fertilizer and a top-dressing of compost is all a peony requires for good health. If you mulch your flower beds, be sure to keep the mulch away from the base your peonies. If the base is covered with mulch, the plant reacts as if it has been planted too deep, and will produce few, if any, flowers.
Depending on the variety and the growing conditions, you'll probably want to provide your peonies with some support when the flowers are in bloom. This is especially true for the double or "bomb"-style blossoms, which can become waterlogged and very heavy. The supports should be positioned early in the growing season, before the plants get more than a few inches high. Once the plant has filled out, and especially when it's in bloom, it is nearly impossible to set up an effective support system.
There are hundreds of peony varieties on the market today, from heirloom favorites that have been enjoyed for centuries, to exciting new colors (peach, coral, yellow), interesting flower forms (spiders, singles and semi-doubles), and different heights and bloom times. You might also want to try your hand at growing tree peonies, which bloom earlier than herbaceous peonies, have larger blossoms and can grow up to 6 feet tall.
Frequently Asked Questions
How come my peonies don't bloom?
Failure to bloom is usually caused by two things: improper planting and/or insufficient light. When planting peonies, make sure to plant the eyes (the point at which new growth emerges) no more than two inches deep. Also make sure your plants get plenty of sun — 6 or more hours a day. If they're planted in a shady site, they will not flower well — if at all.
Also note that newly planted peonies usually don't flower the first year, which is spent developing a good root system and foliage. By the second spring after planting, you should see your first blooms.
What are tree peonies?
Although tree peonies are related to regular (herbaceous) peonies, they are much larger, reaching up to 6 feet. Their form is actually more like a shrub than a tree. In colder zones, they will not grow as tall — 3 or 4 feet is typical. Plants bloom just before the regular peonies; flowers are equally fragrant.
Can peonies be divided?
Yes. Unlike most perennials, peonies rarely need to be divided. The only reason to do it is to get more plants — or share them with friends. It's best done in the fall. Dig up the clump and use a sharp tool to divide it into sections, keeping three to five eyes in each division. Be sure to water the transplants thoroughly, unless you get plenty of rainfall. Keep in mind that divisions (and transplants) might not begin blooming again for two or three years.
Ants are crawling all over my peony buds. Are they going to eat the flowers?
No. These insects are merely enjoying the sugary syrup produced by the buds and are doing no harm to the plant.
The foliage on my peony has blackened and wilted. What can I do?
Peonies suffer from very few pest and disease problems. Nevertheless, they sometimes get fungal diseases, such as botrytis blight, which you describe. Other similar problems include blackened and/or rotten stems, withered buds, gray mold near the base of the plant. In all cases, remove and destroy the infected plant parts. Make sure the plants aren't getting overwatered; avoid sites with poorly drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant will also minimize fungal problems. Powdery mildew can be a problem near the foundation of a house, where there is lots of roof runoff and splashing. Consider moving the plant to another location if you see powdery mildew every year. To prevent problems, do a thorough clean-up after fall frosts. Cut the stems to 3" from the ground and clear away the foliage.
We recently moved to Florida and want to grow peonies like we did in Connecticut. Is there a way we can do it?
Unfortunately, you cannot grow peonies successfully in Florida, southern California and most of the deep south. Zone 8 is the warmest zone for peonies. And if you're growing them in zone 8, it's wise to check locally to see which varieties are known to thrive.
My peonies are gorgeous, but when it rains, the flowers bend to the ground. How can I prevent this?
The best solution is a grow-through support, which helps keep the top-heavy blooms upright. Ring supports will also work, but they aren't quite as "invisible" as the grids. Be sure to put the grids in place in early spring — before the plants are more than a few inches tall.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Pea-sized brown flower buds characteristic of bud-blast on peony (Paeonia)
A frequent problem on peonies is failure of flower buds to open in spring. Typically, the flower buds develop to about the size of a pea and then fail to develop further. There are several possible causes. In a narrower interpretation bud-blast only includes environmental and cultural problems. In a broad interpretation bud-blast includes fungal diseases that affect flower buds. Following are the most common reasons why peony buds may fail to open.
Botrytis blight
Botrytis blight, also called gray mold, is a common fungal disease of many plants including peonies. It commonly affects the new shoots and foliage of peonies (see Botrytis Blight of Peony herein) but can also affect young flower buds. The young buds turn brown and fail to open. Once affected, a flower bud cannot be saved. To address the disease in subsequent years follow the practices outlined in "Botrytis Blight of Peony."
Cold temperatures in early spring
When the young peony flower buds are subjected to cold temperatures in early spring as they begin to develop growth may stop when they are about the size of a pea. They may take on a reddish appearance but do not become brown and papery as in botrytis blight. Nor do they develop the gray mold characteristic of botrytis blight. Later in the season, however, the buds will brown and fall off. If possible, relocate peonies to a location where they are less subject to late spring freezes or protect plants when freezing temperatures are forecast.
Too much shade, lack of proper fertilization, or drought
Anything that stresses the plant could result in bud-blast. This can include too much shade – peonies prefer full sun, lack of adequate fertilization in poor soil, or a period of drought when the plants are making active growth and buds are developing in spring. Provide the plants with adequate sun, fertilizer and moisture, especially in early spring when they are making active growth.
Plants are too young or have been recently divided
Newly planted or divided and transplanted peonies may take a year or two to become established before they flower normally. Be patient and give the plants good care.
Organic Strategies
Since bud-blast of peony is most often caused by environmental stresses, correcting the source of stress is the best way to prevent it. Proper site selection, as well as good division, planting and watering techniques are all organic approaches to preventing this condition. Proper fertilization is also recommended, and the use of organic fertilizers would be a viable organic approach as well.
A frequent problem on peonies is failure of flower buds to open in spring. Typically, the flower buds develop to about the size of a pea and then fail to develop further. There are several possible causes. In a narrower interpretation bud-blast only includes environmental and cultural problems. In a broad interpretation bud-blast includes fungal diseases that affect flower buds. Following are the most common reasons why peony buds may fail to open.
Botrytis blight
Botrytis blight, also called gray mold, is a common fungal disease of many plants including peonies. It commonly affects the new shoots and foliage of peonies (see Botrytis Blight of Peony herein) but can also affect young flower buds. The young buds turn brown and fail to open. Once affected, a flower bud cannot be saved. To address the disease in subsequent years follow the practices outlined in "Botrytis Blight of Peony."
Cold temperatures in early spring
When the young peony flower buds are subjected to cold temperatures in early spring as they begin to develop growth may stop when they are about the size of a pea. They may take on a reddish appearance but do not become brown and papery as in botrytis blight. Nor do they develop the gray mold characteristic of botrytis blight. Later in the season, however, the buds will brown and fall off. If possible, relocate peonies to a location where they are less subject to late spring freezes or protect plants when freezing temperatures are forecast.
Too much shade, lack of proper fertilization, or drought
Anything that stresses the plant could result in bud-blast. This can include too much shade – peonies prefer full sun, lack of adequate fertilization in poor soil, or a period of drought when the plants are making active growth and buds are developing in spring. Provide the plants with adequate sun, fertilizer and moisture, especially in early spring when they are making active growth.
Plants are too young or have been recently divided
Newly planted or divided and transplanted peonies may take a year or two to become established before they flower normally. Be patient and give the plants good care.
Organic Strategies
Since bud-blast of peony is most often caused by environmental stresses, correcting the source of stress is the best way to prevent it. Proper site selection, as well as good division, planting and watering techniques are all organic approaches to preventing this condition. Proper fertilization is also recommended, and the use of organic fertilizers would be a viable organic approach as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Botrytis blight on peony foliage (Paeonia)
Gray mold or botrytis blight is caused by the fungus, Botrytis paeoniae. It is the most common disease of garden peonies. This destructive disease is very prevalent during damp, rainy seasons.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
On peonies afflicted with botrytis, the young shoots rot off at ground level when they are 5 to 8 inches tall. The stems often have a water-soaked, cankerous appearance. The leafy shoots wilt suddenly and fall over. The rotted portion of the plant will become covered with a soft brown or blackish mass of spores. Just above the ground level, the stalk will be covered with a gray mold which sheds large numbers of spores. The spores are carried by wind and insects to young leaves and flower buds and cause a leaf blight and bud rot. Small buds that are affected turn black and wither. Larger buds turn brown and fail to open. During a severe outbreak of the disease, 90% of the buds fail to develop. Open flowers are affected occasionally, and they also turn brown and later develop a covering of gray mold.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi are both saprophytic and parasitic. The spore-producing structures of the fungus develop along the base of the rotting stalks and survive in debris left in the garden over the winter. In the spring, spores form and spread to dying, wounded, or extremely soft plant tissues. As the disease progresses, a gray mold develops. The gray mold is made up of spores that are either wind-blown or splashed onto new tissues and infect.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prevent infection. In early fall, cut down all old leaves and stalks to ground level. This debris should be destroyed and not composted. Apply 1 to 2 inches of mulch to bury debris.
2. Improve soil drainage. Plant peonies in welldrained soil; heavy clay soils should be lightened with organic material such as compost or peat moss. They should not be planted so that water is apt to cover their bases, nor should soil be heaped about the leaf bases.
3. Move plants to a better location. Good air circulation can reduce disease problems. Plant in full sun or at least in part sun. Space plants widely, at least 3 feet apart. Remove aging leaves from plants.
4.Use disease-free roots. When planting new plants, buy only from reputable dealers, or take divisions only from healthy, disease-free plants.
5. Use a fungicide. Spray the plants with a fungicide when young tips break through the ground. Follow 2 weeks later with another application and every 14 days thereafter until mid-June. Pesticides registered for use include copper, captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), mancozeb, maneb, sulfur, and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336). Fungicides must be applied in advance of the disease as a protectant.
6. Look for varieties that show some resistance to the disease.
Gray mold or botrytis blight is caused by the fungus, Botrytis paeoniae. It is the most common disease of garden peonies. This destructive disease is very prevalent during damp, rainy seasons.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
On peonies afflicted with botrytis, the young shoots rot off at ground level when they are 5 to 8 inches tall. The stems often have a water-soaked, cankerous appearance. The leafy shoots wilt suddenly and fall over. The rotted portion of the plant will become covered with a soft brown or blackish mass of spores. Just above the ground level, the stalk will be covered with a gray mold which sheds large numbers of spores. The spores are carried by wind and insects to young leaves and flower buds and cause a leaf blight and bud rot. Small buds that are affected turn black and wither. Larger buds turn brown and fail to open. During a severe outbreak of the disease, 90% of the buds fail to develop. Open flowers are affected occasionally, and they also turn brown and later develop a covering of gray mold.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi are both saprophytic and parasitic. The spore-producing structures of the fungus develop along the base of the rotting stalks and survive in debris left in the garden over the winter. In the spring, spores form and spread to dying, wounded, or extremely soft plant tissues. As the disease progresses, a gray mold develops. The gray mold is made up of spores that are either wind-blown or splashed onto new tissues and infect.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prevent infection. In early fall, cut down all old leaves and stalks to ground level. This debris should be destroyed and not composted. Apply 1 to 2 inches of mulch to bury debris.
2. Improve soil drainage. Plant peonies in welldrained soil; heavy clay soils should be lightened with organic material such as compost or peat moss. They should not be planted so that water is apt to cover their bases, nor should soil be heaped about the leaf bases.
3. Move plants to a better location. Good air circulation can reduce disease problems. Plant in full sun or at least in part sun. Space plants widely, at least 3 feet apart. Remove aging leaves from plants.
4.Use disease-free roots. When planting new plants, buy only from reputable dealers, or take divisions only from healthy, disease-free plants.
5. Use a fungicide. Spray the plants with a fungicide when young tips break through the ground. Follow 2 weeks later with another application and every 14 days thereafter until mid-June. Pesticides registered for use include copper, captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), mancozeb, maneb, sulfur, and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336). Fungicides must be applied in advance of the disease as a protectant.
6. Look for varieties that show some resistance to the disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Peonies are herbaceous perennials. There are 30 species of Peonies, but some are woody shrubs. Peonies produce large, often fragrant flowers. Blooming in late Spring and early summer, Peonies come in shades of red to white or yellow. Peonies are native to Asia, Southern Europe and Western North America.
Peonies are hardy flowering plants that need little care and live through severe winters. After becoming established in a garden, Peonies bloom each spring for many years. Peonies are also extensively grown as ornamental plants for their very large, often scented cut flowers.
send flowers as gifts pick and send flowers from our exquisite selection
Two Types of Peonies are grown in home gardens:
1.The garden or herbaceous type or Paeonia hybrids: these have full bushy stems that grow two to four feet tall. Garden peonies grow from tubers.
2.Tree peony or Paeonia suffruticosa: these types often grow to eye-level height on woody stems with few branches. Tree peonies are shrub like plants grown either from seed or from grafts.
Varieties of Peonies include:
Chinese cut flower Peonies, with large double flowers in shades of red, pink, and white.
Semi-double Peonies, characterized by several rows of petals and a center of petals mixed with stamens.
Anemone Peonies, similar to the double Chinese variety of peonies, but with a center of narrow petals.
Japanese Peonies, noted for the contrasting color of the center petals and their finely divided foliage.
Fern leaf Peonies with delicate, fern-like foliage are dwarf in stature and bloom very early.
Single Peonies with only a few rows of petals standing in their utter simplicity.
Tips for growing Peonies:
Both types of Peonies can be planted in early autumn. Grown peonies can also be planted in spring.
Plant the tuber in a well prepared bed, working compost or peat moss into the soil.
Dig a hole approximately eighteen inches across and 18 inches deep for each tuber.
Space the holes so that the plants will be at least 3 feet apart. Fill the hole about half full of soil.
Mix in a handful of a balanced fertilizer, such as 5-10-5 at this time.
Plant the garden tuber with the uppermost eye not more than 2 inches below the ground surface.
A tuber planted too deeply will have difficulty producing blooms. Put a little soil around the tuber and water thoroughly.
Then fill the hole with the remaining soil, and press down firmly.
Water again to settle the tuber.
Plant a tree peony tuber with 4-5 inches of soil covering the graft.
Tips for Caring for Peonies:
Peonies should be fed in early spring and again halfway through the growing season.
During the dry summer months, Peonies require regular, deep watering.
Cultivate a half cup of low nitrogen fertilizer into the soil when the stems are about 2 or 3 inches high.
Take care not to damage the roots, and try to keep the fertilizer from direct contact with them, and do not over-fertilize, as it results in weak stems and reduced flowering.
The feeding is important since the peony plant makes a very rapid early growth and needs this complete feeding to produce foliage and blooms.
For larger blooms, disbud the plant, allowing only the terminal bud to develop.
For quantity of flowers and a longer flowering season, leave some of the lateral buds.
To prevent the flowers from breaking or bending over during a strong wind or rain, provide a sturdy plant stake and tie the stem loosely to it with garden twine or strips of cloth.
Remove the flowers as soon as they fade to prevent seed development, which will use up needed food reserves, and affect next year's bloom.
In the fall, after the foliage dies back, cut the stems back to three inches, remove and destroy them.
Peonies are hardy flowering plants that need little care and live through severe winters. After becoming established in a garden, Peonies bloom each spring for many years. Peonies are also extensively grown as ornamental plants for their very large, often scented cut flowers.
send flowers as gifts pick and send flowers from our exquisite selection
Two Types of Peonies are grown in home gardens:
1.The garden or herbaceous type or Paeonia hybrids: these have full bushy stems that grow two to four feet tall. Garden peonies grow from tubers.
2.Tree peony or Paeonia suffruticosa: these types often grow to eye-level height on woody stems with few branches. Tree peonies are shrub like plants grown either from seed or from grafts.
Varieties of Peonies include:
Chinese cut flower Peonies, with large double flowers in shades of red, pink, and white.
Semi-double Peonies, characterized by several rows of petals and a center of petals mixed with stamens.
Anemone Peonies, similar to the double Chinese variety of peonies, but with a center of narrow petals.
Japanese Peonies, noted for the contrasting color of the center petals and their finely divided foliage.
Fern leaf Peonies with delicate, fern-like foliage are dwarf in stature and bloom very early.
Single Peonies with only a few rows of petals standing in their utter simplicity.
Tips for growing Peonies:
Both types of Peonies can be planted in early autumn. Grown peonies can also be planted in spring.
Plant the tuber in a well prepared bed, working compost or peat moss into the soil.
Dig a hole approximately eighteen inches across and 18 inches deep for each tuber.
Space the holes so that the plants will be at least 3 feet apart. Fill the hole about half full of soil.
Mix in a handful of a balanced fertilizer, such as 5-10-5 at this time.
Plant the garden tuber with the uppermost eye not more than 2 inches below the ground surface.
A tuber planted too deeply will have difficulty producing blooms. Put a little soil around the tuber and water thoroughly.
Then fill the hole with the remaining soil, and press down firmly.
Water again to settle the tuber.
Plant a tree peony tuber with 4-5 inches of soil covering the graft.
Tips for Caring for Peonies:
Peonies should be fed in early spring and again halfway through the growing season.
During the dry summer months, Peonies require regular, deep watering.
Cultivate a half cup of low nitrogen fertilizer into the soil when the stems are about 2 or 3 inches high.
Take care not to damage the roots, and try to keep the fertilizer from direct contact with them, and do not over-fertilize, as it results in weak stems and reduced flowering.
The feeding is important since the peony plant makes a very rapid early growth and needs this complete feeding to produce foliage and blooms.
For larger blooms, disbud the plant, allowing only the terminal bud to develop.
For quantity of flowers and a longer flowering season, leave some of the lateral buds.
To prevent the flowers from breaking or bending over during a strong wind or rain, provide a sturdy plant stake and tie the stem loosely to it with garden twine or strips of cloth.
Remove the flowers as soon as they fade to prevent seed development, which will use up needed food reserves, and affect next year's bloom.
In the fall, after the foliage dies back, cut the stems back to three inches, remove and destroy them.
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文章
Joss
2017年02月22日
I think I hear over and over, that #Peonies are one of the most favorited #flowers around. What’s not to love? Perfect colors, a romantic cupped shape, some are even fragrant! They are not that difficult to grow, but they do have some requirements that make them a little more high maintenance than, say, petunias. But they are worth it. Amazing in the garden, and as cut flowers, here’s how to grow Perfect Peonies! (and some of our fav’s to grow!)
There are both herbaceous peonies, and tree peonies. Herbaceous are the bush kind that are the most common, and easier to grow.
Peonies live for up to 50 years, so think of them as a long term investment in your garden.
They like full sun, thrive in zones 3-8, grow 3-4 feet and bloom in May and June, depending on the variety.
If you buy peony crowns in the fall, it’s a lot like choosing healthy bulbs. Choose a crown with at least three good bugs, then plant them facing up no more than 2 inches below the soil. Number one way to keep your peony from blooming? Plant it too deep.
Peonies like deep, fertile soil. Basically, that means before you plant your peony, dig deep, add lot’s of organic matter, and make really sure you’ve picked the right spot. They do NOT like to be transplanted. They make their home a forever home, so keep that in mind.
Peony do not have strong stems, so they tend to flop over, especially when in flower. The best way to deal with this is to create a “cage” of support just as the peony is peeking out of the ground in spring. That way, the plant grows into it’s support, gradually covers it, and never misses a beat!
At the end of the season after the plant has died back with the frost, cut back and discard the old foliage. Do not add it to your compost pile, to prevent disease.
That’s it! Love ’em and they might outlive their owners! And in the meantime, provide you with spring flowers that are beloved by both gardeners and non gardeners alike.
Here is a taste of Peony varieties that should be easily available and are good choices for any garden!
Sarah Bernhardt is one of the most planted peonies of all time, and is an old fashioned variety from the early 1900’s. It grows to 36 inches and blooms in June, and has a light fragrance.
Festiva Maxima is another old variety that is still extremely popular, and my fav white variety. Pure white and flecked with red, growing to 36 inches.
Raspberry Sundae is a two tone variety with a round cupped form.
Bartzella blooms mid season, and has a rare yellow peony flower.
Gay Paree is another bi-color peony with strong seems and a mid season bloom.
Big Ben is a good choice for peony virgins, because of the natural vigor of the plant. Oh, and it’s fragrant!
America is our choice for a red blooming peony. It blooms early and has a nice, strong habit.
Finally, want to be more inspired?
There are both herbaceous peonies, and tree peonies. Herbaceous are the bush kind that are the most common, and easier to grow.
Peonies live for up to 50 years, so think of them as a long term investment in your garden.
They like full sun, thrive in zones 3-8, grow 3-4 feet and bloom in May and June, depending on the variety.
If you buy peony crowns in the fall, it’s a lot like choosing healthy bulbs. Choose a crown with at least three good bugs, then plant them facing up no more than 2 inches below the soil. Number one way to keep your peony from blooming? Plant it too deep.
Peonies like deep, fertile soil. Basically, that means before you plant your peony, dig deep, add lot’s of organic matter, and make really sure you’ve picked the right spot. They do NOT like to be transplanted. They make their home a forever home, so keep that in mind.
Peony do not have strong stems, so they tend to flop over, especially when in flower. The best way to deal with this is to create a “cage” of support just as the peony is peeking out of the ground in spring. That way, the plant grows into it’s support, gradually covers it, and never misses a beat!
At the end of the season after the plant has died back with the frost, cut back and discard the old foliage. Do not add it to your compost pile, to prevent disease.
That’s it! Love ’em and they might outlive their owners! And in the meantime, provide you with spring flowers that are beloved by both gardeners and non gardeners alike.
Here is a taste of Peony varieties that should be easily available and are good choices for any garden!
Sarah Bernhardt is one of the most planted peonies of all time, and is an old fashioned variety from the early 1900’s. It grows to 36 inches and blooms in June, and has a light fragrance.
Festiva Maxima is another old variety that is still extremely popular, and my fav white variety. Pure white and flecked with red, growing to 36 inches.
Raspberry Sundae is a two tone variety with a round cupped form.
Bartzella blooms mid season, and has a rare yellow peony flower.
Gay Paree is another bi-color peony with strong seems and a mid season bloom.
Big Ben is a good choice for peony virgins, because of the natural vigor of the plant. Oh, and it’s fragrant!
America is our choice for a red blooming peony. It blooms early and has a nice, strong habit.
Finally, want to be more inspired?
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