文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月28日
Cordyline, or ti, is a common decorative plant that thrives outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 12, but it also makes an excellent houseplant with its long, spikey leaves. Cordyline typically has leathery leaves in a variety of colors, including green, red, yellow, white, purple, and purplish-red.
Some species in this group have fragrant flowers followed by berries. The moderate-growing plant will produce white, pink, or pale lavender flowers that are cup-shaped and sweet-smelling. They bloom in early summer and then small berries will appear after the flowers. It's more typical for flowering to occur in outdoor varieties, but flowers can appear on houseplants. If you plant cordyline outside, do so in the spring. This plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Cordyline, Hawaiian ti plant, good luck plant
Botanical Name Cordyline terminalis
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2-4 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full-sun, partial sun
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic, 6-6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9-12 (USDA)
Native Area Pacific Islands, Southeast Asia
Toxicity Highly toxic to dogs and cats
Cordyline Care
Tropical cordyline is a hardy plant if you grow it in the right climate. Its many varieties are colorful and cheery, and it's an attractive low-maintenance evergreen shrub. Ti will bring color to both your indoor or outdoor garden, and it's very easy to maintain.
The name Cordyline originates from Greek; the word kordyle, meaning "club," is a reference to the plant's vigorous root system. If you've planted cordyline outdoors in a raised garden bed, the root system can sometimes grow so large it may disrupt surrounding plants.
Light
Ti needs bright light, but avoid direct sunlight in unhabituated plants. Also, green-leaved cordyline tends to do best with direct light, while those with other colored leaves may prefer bright indirect or filtered sunlight.
Soil
Cordyline needs a rich, well-drained high-quality potting mix with a pH of 6-6.5.
Water
Ti plants prefer to be watered when the surface of its soil feels dry. Water until it starts to run out of the drainage holes. Do not put the drained water back into the plant.
Fertilizer
These plants can be fed in the spring with slow-release pellets. You can feed the plant weekly during the growing season with a liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer at half-strength. Do not fertilize during the winter.
Temperature and Humidity
Ti thrives in temperatures above 62 degrees Fahrenheit and prefers a high humidity environment. Avoid putting the plant near a cold draft like a window. These are tropical plants, so if you're experiencing leaf drop, try raising both the temperature and humidity.
Types of Cordyline
'C. australis': resembles the yucca plant with narrow, long, and grayish to dark leaves
'Calypso Queen': boasts ruby-maroon leaves
'Oahu Rainbow': shows off dark-green leaves streaked with cream and white
'Firebrand': offers beautiful pink leaves that darken to maroon
'Hilo Rainbow': displays deep-green foliage with pops of burgundy
Pruning
A mature, well-trimmed plant should have stems of various heights, up to 3 feet to 4 feet (some stems can go much higher), and be clothed in leaves to the soil level. Over time, cordylines tend to become leggy, so you may want to trim back individual stems in a staggered pattern to keep the plant full.
Propagating Cordyline
Propagating ti is typically done with stem cuttings. The easy process is as follows:
Cut 3- to 5-inch pieces from mature stems and remove all of the leaves.
Lay the pieces in a damp mixture of sand and perlite, and keep in a room that's at least 62 degrees Fahrenheit.
Shoots will grow from the eyes of the stems and can be planted in potting soil when they have about four to six leaves each. You can repot in spring or every other spring, as needed.
How to Grow Cordyline From Seed
Ti can be grown with purchased seeds or harvested seeds from the ripened berries that you may occasionally find even on an indoor plant.
Harvested seeds need to be squeezed out of the berry and cleaned. If you found indoor berries, just clean the seeds and let them air-dry for a few days before planting. If you found your berries outdoors, they'll need to be stratified for several months before planting.
When seeds are ready, sow them in well-draining, sandy compost. Germination should happen in four to six weeks, but possibly longer.
Potting and Repotting Cordyline
Cordyline does well in pots, especially if you don't live in a tropical climate: You can just bring them indoors for the winter. When it's time to move the plant outdoors during warmer months, make sure the outdoor soil drains well and any threat of frost has passed.
The plant doesn't need to be repotted unless it's growing too large for its pot, which might be every few years. When repotting, Choose a tall pot of any material with adequate drainage holes for cordyline to accommodate two to three years of root growth.
Overwintering
If you're at the cooler end of cordyline's hardiness zones (9 through 12), you can tie up your plant's leaves with natural twine to keep them safe in cooler months; Just be sure they're dry before you do so to avoid rot. Outdoor cordyline plants also need to be well secured in harsh, windy conditions; The long, thin leaves can thrash in the wind and cause the plant to topple over.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cordyline is prone to common pests and problems, such as scale insects, spider mites, and mealybugs. All of these can be fixed with either neem oil or insecticidal soap.
Ti also attracts bacterial leaf spot and root rot. You can try to beat both of these problems with fungicide and by making sure the plants aren't sitting in soil that's too wet.
Common Problems With Cordyline
This otherwise easy-going tropical plant will let you know if it's in trouble by the condition of its leaves. Here's how to fix a leaf issue.
Browning Tips
This is a common problem with many houseplants, including indoor-grown cordyline. The plant may be experiencing underwatering, overwatering, too much fertilizer, root rot, or even overly dry air.
However, another issue could be the salts and fluoride in the tap water used to moisten the plant. Cordyline is sensitive to fluoride, which is found in many residential water supplies. Flush the plant, or before watering, leave the water in an open container overnight to reduce chlorine and salts. You can also switch to distilled or bottled water or harvest rainwater for plants.
Leaves Turning Yellow
A second common problem with houseplants like cordyline is the yellowing of leaves. Most plants naturally shed older yellow leaves. But, if your cordyline's leaves are turning yellow, it may also mean it has a watering issue or it's getting too much sunlight. It needs indirect bright light rather than harsh rays directly on the leaves.
Yellow leaves could also mean your plant is in a spot where there are frequent temperature fluctuations. Check for drafts. Allow the leaves to drop and see how the plant fares in another spot.
If you see that the lower leaves are turning yellow, that usually means there's root rot. Check for waterlogged or blackened roots. Unfortunately, you may not be able to save a cordyline plant with root rot.
FAQ
Is cordyline easy to grow?
Caring for these plants indoors (and outdoors) is easy, simple, and straightforward. But, they must be kept warm and they need a lot of light.
Why is cordyline considered a lucky plant?
In many areas of the world, the ti plant is considered to have mystical powers that bring good luck, long life, and lasting love to its owner. For example, in Hawaii, cordyline is planted around homes to bring good luck to the homeowners.
What is the difference between cordyline and dracaena?
Cordyline and dracaena plants are often confused because they look alike with nearly identical spikey leaves. You can tell the difference by the color roots. Cordyline plants have white roots and dracaena have orange roots.
Some species in this group have fragrant flowers followed by berries. The moderate-growing plant will produce white, pink, or pale lavender flowers that are cup-shaped and sweet-smelling. They bloom in early summer and then small berries will appear after the flowers. It's more typical for flowering to occur in outdoor varieties, but flowers can appear on houseplants. If you plant cordyline outside, do so in the spring. This plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Cordyline, Hawaiian ti plant, good luck plant
Botanical Name Cordyline terminalis
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2-4 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full-sun, partial sun
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic, 6-6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9-12 (USDA)
Native Area Pacific Islands, Southeast Asia
Toxicity Highly toxic to dogs and cats
Cordyline Care
Tropical cordyline is a hardy plant if you grow it in the right climate. Its many varieties are colorful and cheery, and it's an attractive low-maintenance evergreen shrub. Ti will bring color to both your indoor or outdoor garden, and it's very easy to maintain.
The name Cordyline originates from Greek; the word kordyle, meaning "club," is a reference to the plant's vigorous root system. If you've planted cordyline outdoors in a raised garden bed, the root system can sometimes grow so large it may disrupt surrounding plants.
Light
Ti needs bright light, but avoid direct sunlight in unhabituated plants. Also, green-leaved cordyline tends to do best with direct light, while those with other colored leaves may prefer bright indirect or filtered sunlight.
Soil
Cordyline needs a rich, well-drained high-quality potting mix with a pH of 6-6.5.
Water
Ti plants prefer to be watered when the surface of its soil feels dry. Water until it starts to run out of the drainage holes. Do not put the drained water back into the plant.
Fertilizer
These plants can be fed in the spring with slow-release pellets. You can feed the plant weekly during the growing season with a liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer at half-strength. Do not fertilize during the winter.
Temperature and Humidity
Ti thrives in temperatures above 62 degrees Fahrenheit and prefers a high humidity environment. Avoid putting the plant near a cold draft like a window. These are tropical plants, so if you're experiencing leaf drop, try raising both the temperature and humidity.
Types of Cordyline
'C. australis': resembles the yucca plant with narrow, long, and grayish to dark leaves
'Calypso Queen': boasts ruby-maroon leaves
'Oahu Rainbow': shows off dark-green leaves streaked with cream and white
'Firebrand': offers beautiful pink leaves that darken to maroon
'Hilo Rainbow': displays deep-green foliage with pops of burgundy
Pruning
A mature, well-trimmed plant should have stems of various heights, up to 3 feet to 4 feet (some stems can go much higher), and be clothed in leaves to the soil level. Over time, cordylines tend to become leggy, so you may want to trim back individual stems in a staggered pattern to keep the plant full.
Propagating Cordyline
Propagating ti is typically done with stem cuttings. The easy process is as follows:
Cut 3- to 5-inch pieces from mature stems and remove all of the leaves.
Lay the pieces in a damp mixture of sand and perlite, and keep in a room that's at least 62 degrees Fahrenheit.
Shoots will grow from the eyes of the stems and can be planted in potting soil when they have about four to six leaves each. You can repot in spring or every other spring, as needed.
How to Grow Cordyline From Seed
Ti can be grown with purchased seeds or harvested seeds from the ripened berries that you may occasionally find even on an indoor plant.
Harvested seeds need to be squeezed out of the berry and cleaned. If you found indoor berries, just clean the seeds and let them air-dry for a few days before planting. If you found your berries outdoors, they'll need to be stratified for several months before planting.
When seeds are ready, sow them in well-draining, sandy compost. Germination should happen in four to six weeks, but possibly longer.
Potting and Repotting Cordyline
Cordyline does well in pots, especially if you don't live in a tropical climate: You can just bring them indoors for the winter. When it's time to move the plant outdoors during warmer months, make sure the outdoor soil drains well and any threat of frost has passed.
The plant doesn't need to be repotted unless it's growing too large for its pot, which might be every few years. When repotting, Choose a tall pot of any material with adequate drainage holes for cordyline to accommodate two to three years of root growth.
Overwintering
If you're at the cooler end of cordyline's hardiness zones (9 through 12), you can tie up your plant's leaves with natural twine to keep them safe in cooler months; Just be sure they're dry before you do so to avoid rot. Outdoor cordyline plants also need to be well secured in harsh, windy conditions; The long, thin leaves can thrash in the wind and cause the plant to topple over.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cordyline is prone to common pests and problems, such as scale insects, spider mites, and mealybugs. All of these can be fixed with either neem oil or insecticidal soap.
Ti also attracts bacterial leaf spot and root rot. You can try to beat both of these problems with fungicide and by making sure the plants aren't sitting in soil that's too wet.
Common Problems With Cordyline
This otherwise easy-going tropical plant will let you know if it's in trouble by the condition of its leaves. Here's how to fix a leaf issue.
Browning Tips
This is a common problem with many houseplants, including indoor-grown cordyline. The plant may be experiencing underwatering, overwatering, too much fertilizer, root rot, or even overly dry air.
However, another issue could be the salts and fluoride in the tap water used to moisten the plant. Cordyline is sensitive to fluoride, which is found in many residential water supplies. Flush the plant, or before watering, leave the water in an open container overnight to reduce chlorine and salts. You can also switch to distilled or bottled water or harvest rainwater for plants.
Leaves Turning Yellow
A second common problem with houseplants like cordyline is the yellowing of leaves. Most plants naturally shed older yellow leaves. But, if your cordyline's leaves are turning yellow, it may also mean it has a watering issue or it's getting too much sunlight. It needs indirect bright light rather than harsh rays directly on the leaves.
Yellow leaves could also mean your plant is in a spot where there are frequent temperature fluctuations. Check for drafts. Allow the leaves to drop and see how the plant fares in another spot.
If you see that the lower leaves are turning yellow, that usually means there's root rot. Check for waterlogged or blackened roots. Unfortunately, you may not be able to save a cordyline plant with root rot.
FAQ
Is cordyline easy to grow?
Caring for these plants indoors (and outdoors) is easy, simple, and straightforward. But, they must be kept warm and they need a lot of light.
Why is cordyline considered a lucky plant?
In many areas of the world, the ti plant is considered to have mystical powers that bring good luck, long life, and lasting love to its owner. For example, in Hawaii, cordyline is planted around homes to bring good luck to the homeowners.
What is the difference between cordyline and dracaena?
Cordyline and dracaena plants are often confused because they look alike with nearly identical spikey leaves. You can tell the difference by the color roots. Cordyline plants have white roots and dracaena have orange roots.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Both ornamental and edible ginger plants add attractive foliage to the garden. Edible ginger is grown for its ornamental features, as well as for its edible roots, or rhizomes, while ornamental ginger is prized for its colorful floral bracts. Ginger is grown from rhizomes, or enlarged roots, regardless of the variety. Whether you are dividing the roots of a crowded plant colony, planting a new plant or moving an existing plant to a new area, proper transplanting is necessary so that the ginger continues to thrive in the garden.
Step 1
Loosen the soil around the ginger plant with a spading fork if you are transplanting it to a new bed or dividing it. Lift the ginger rhizomes out of the soil, leaving any foliage in place. If you are dividing the plant, cut 1- to 2-inch-long pieces of the rhizomes from the outside of the root system, cutting the pieces so that they have at least one bud on them. Leave the rest of the plant in the ground.
Step 2
Prepare a partially to fully shaded garden bed for the ginger. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the planting area and work it into the top 6 inches of soil.
Step 3
Plant the ginger rhizomes at a 1-inch depth. Space additional plants 15 inches apart in all directions. Sow the rhizome so that the bud or foliage is on the top.
Step 4
Water the bed thoroughly after transplanting, moistening it to a 6-inch depth. Spread a 1- to 2-inch mulch layer over the bed to help preserve soil moisture between waterings.
Step 1
Loosen the soil around the ginger plant with a spading fork if you are transplanting it to a new bed or dividing it. Lift the ginger rhizomes out of the soil, leaving any foliage in place. If you are dividing the plant, cut 1- to 2-inch-long pieces of the rhizomes from the outside of the root system, cutting the pieces so that they have at least one bud on them. Leave the rest of the plant in the ground.
Step 2
Prepare a partially to fully shaded garden bed for the ginger. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the planting area and work it into the top 6 inches of soil.
Step 3
Plant the ginger rhizomes at a 1-inch depth. Space additional plants 15 inches apart in all directions. Sow the rhizome so that the bud or foliage is on the top.
Step 4
Water the bed thoroughly after transplanting, moistening it to a 6-inch depth. Spread a 1- to 2-inch mulch layer over the bed to help preserve soil moisture between waterings.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月25日
Description: This perennial wildflower is about 6-12" tall and unbranched, or sparingly so. Both fertile and infertile shoots are produced; the latter develop later in the year and don't produce flowers. The central stem is light green to pale purplish green and glabrous to moderately pubescent. The opposite leaves are up to 3" long and 1¼" across; they are ovate, lanceolate, oblanceolate, elliptic, or broadly oblong. The upper surface of these leaves is medium to dark green and finely pubescent (sometimes sparsely); their margins are smooth (entire) and ciliate. The leaf bases are sessile or nearly sessile, while their tips are either acute or blunt; lower leaves are more likely to have short petioles and blunt tips than upper leaves.
The central stem of each fertile shoot produces a terminal cyme of flowers; occasional individual flowers may develop from the axils of the upper leaves. Each flower is about ½" across, consisting of 5 green sepals, 5 white petals (looking like 10 petals, because each petal is deeply bifurcated), a white ovary with 3 styles at its apex, and 10 stamens with reddish brown anthers. The petals are about the same length or a little longer than the sepals. Each sepal is lanceolate to ovate and pubescent. The pedicel of each flower is up to 1" long and pubescent. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late spring and lasts about a month. Each flower is replaced by an ovoid capsule that is open at its apex; it has 6 curved teeth around its upper rim. Each capsule contains many small seeds that are globoid, somewhat flattened, and minutely warty. Each seed is often slightly notched on one side. The root system consists of a taproot with slender fibrous roots. Small colonies of plants are occasionally formed.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to light shade during the spring, followed by light to medium shade. The soil should be well-drained but consistently moist, with an abundance of organic matter and a layer of decaying leaves. It should also be somewhat acidic. Shallow rocky ground and slopes help to reduce competition from taller plants.
Range & Habitat: The native Star Chickweed is a rare plant in Illinois, where it is state-listed as 'endangered.' It has been found in Pope County of southern Illinois, and a few counties in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies at the NW corner of the range for this species. It is more common in the southern half of Indiana and other states. Habitats include edges of rocky meadows, rocky wooded slopes, wooded bluffs, and the upper slopes of sandstone ravines. Outside of Illinois, another typical habitat is rich mesic woodlands. This conservative species is found in high quality woodlands, especially where sandstone is close to the ground surface.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Star Chickweed attract cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), mason bees (Osmia spp.), Halictid bees (Augochlorella spp., Lasioglossum spp.), Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.), the Giant Bee Fly (Bombylius major), Syrphid flies, and other miscellaneous flies. Butterflies and skippers are rare visitors of the flowers. These insects are attracted primarily to the nectar of the flowers, although some of the bees collect pollen for their larvae and some of the flies feed on pollen as adults. Insects that feed on Stellaria spp., including possibly this chickweed, are the aphid Abstrusomyzus phloxae, the Pale Tortoise Beetle (Cassida flaveola), and caterpillars of a moth, Lobocleta ossularia (Drab Brown Wave). Information about this chickweed's ecological relationships with vertebrate animals is currently unavailable.
Photographic Location: The edge of a rocky meadow and the wooded upper slope of a sandstone ravine at Shades State Park in west-central Indiana.
Comments: Of all the chickweeds (whether native or introduced), Star Chickweed is arguably the most attractive. It's a pity that this species isn't more common in Illinois. The only other chickweed in Illinois that resembles it is Myosoton aquaticum (Water Chickweed), which is native to Eurasia. This latter species can become larger in size than Star Chickweed, and its leaves are usually more broad toward their bases. Even more importantly, the flowers of Water Chickweed have 5 styles and its seed capsules have 5 teeth. In contrast, Star Chickweed has flowers with 3 styles and seed capsules with 6 teeth. Water Chickweed, as its common name suggests, also prefers damp water-logged habitats, such as roadside ditches and low areas along rivers. Other common names of Stellaria pubera are Giant Chickweed and Great Chickweed; these names sometimes refer to Myosoton aquaticum as well.
The central stem of each fertile shoot produces a terminal cyme of flowers; occasional individual flowers may develop from the axils of the upper leaves. Each flower is about ½" across, consisting of 5 green sepals, 5 white petals (looking like 10 petals, because each petal is deeply bifurcated), a white ovary with 3 styles at its apex, and 10 stamens with reddish brown anthers. The petals are about the same length or a little longer than the sepals. Each sepal is lanceolate to ovate and pubescent. The pedicel of each flower is up to 1" long and pubescent. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late spring and lasts about a month. Each flower is replaced by an ovoid capsule that is open at its apex; it has 6 curved teeth around its upper rim. Each capsule contains many small seeds that are globoid, somewhat flattened, and minutely warty. Each seed is often slightly notched on one side. The root system consists of a taproot with slender fibrous roots. Small colonies of plants are occasionally formed.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to light shade during the spring, followed by light to medium shade. The soil should be well-drained but consistently moist, with an abundance of organic matter and a layer of decaying leaves. It should also be somewhat acidic. Shallow rocky ground and slopes help to reduce competition from taller plants.
Range & Habitat: The native Star Chickweed is a rare plant in Illinois, where it is state-listed as 'endangered.' It has been found in Pope County of southern Illinois, and a few counties in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies at the NW corner of the range for this species. It is more common in the southern half of Indiana and other states. Habitats include edges of rocky meadows, rocky wooded slopes, wooded bluffs, and the upper slopes of sandstone ravines. Outside of Illinois, another typical habitat is rich mesic woodlands. This conservative species is found in high quality woodlands, especially where sandstone is close to the ground surface.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Star Chickweed attract cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), mason bees (Osmia spp.), Halictid bees (Augochlorella spp., Lasioglossum spp.), Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.), the Giant Bee Fly (Bombylius major), Syrphid flies, and other miscellaneous flies. Butterflies and skippers are rare visitors of the flowers. These insects are attracted primarily to the nectar of the flowers, although some of the bees collect pollen for their larvae and some of the flies feed on pollen as adults. Insects that feed on Stellaria spp., including possibly this chickweed, are the aphid Abstrusomyzus phloxae, the Pale Tortoise Beetle (Cassida flaveola), and caterpillars of a moth, Lobocleta ossularia (Drab Brown Wave). Information about this chickweed's ecological relationships with vertebrate animals is currently unavailable.
Photographic Location: The edge of a rocky meadow and the wooded upper slope of a sandstone ravine at Shades State Park in west-central Indiana.
Comments: Of all the chickweeds (whether native or introduced), Star Chickweed is arguably the most attractive. It's a pity that this species isn't more common in Illinois. The only other chickweed in Illinois that resembles it is Myosoton aquaticum (Water Chickweed), which is native to Eurasia. This latter species can become larger in size than Star Chickweed, and its leaves are usually more broad toward their bases. Even more importantly, the flowers of Water Chickweed have 5 styles and its seed capsules have 5 teeth. In contrast, Star Chickweed has flowers with 3 styles and seed capsules with 6 teeth. Water Chickweed, as its common name suggests, also prefers damp water-logged habitats, such as roadside ditches and low areas along rivers. Other common names of Stellaria pubera are Giant Chickweed and Great Chickweed; these names sometimes refer to Myosoton aquaticum as well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月07日
Description: This plant is a winter or spring annual about ½–1½' tall. Several branching stems develop from the base of the plant; they often sprawl across the ground or lean on adjacent vegetation for support. The stems are light green to purplish green, more or less hairy, and shiny; the hairs occur in lines along the stems or in tufts where the stems branch. The blades of the alternate leaves are up to 4" long and 2" across; they are medium green, hairless to mostly hairless, double-pinnate, and triangular-lanceolate in shape. The pinnatifid leaflets are shallowly to deeply cleft and their tips are obtuse. The petioles of the lower leaves are about as long as the blades, while the upper leaves have short petioles or they are nearly sessile. A membranous sheath wraps around the base of each petiole.
The upper stems terminate in compound umbels of small white flowers. The typical compound umbel has about 3 umbellets, and each umbellet has 3-7 flowers; the divergent stalks of the umbels and umbellets are green and glabrous. The flowers often bloom before the compound umbels have fully expanded. Each flower is less than 1/8" across; it has 5 white petals, 5 stamens, a divided style, insignificant sepals, and a cylindrical green ovary. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to early summer. Upon reaching maturity, each flower is replaced by a single-seeded fruit. The fruits are about ¼" long, narrowly oblongoid-ellipsoid, and broadest toward the middle; usually the fruits are glabrous, although less often they are finely pubescent. Each fruit has a few longitudinal ridges that are broad and flat; these ridges are separated by narrow grooves. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. This species is somewhat weedy.
Range & Habitat: The native Wild Chervil is common in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map). Typical habitats include lowland woodlands, open woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, rocky glades, areas adjacent to buildings, and areas along roads and railroads. Habitats with a history of disturbance and some shade are preferred.Immature Fruits
Faunal Associations: The flowers are occasionally visited by small bees (especially Halictid bees), parasitic wasps, flies (especially Syrphid flies), and beetles. These insects usually suck nectar from the flowers, although some bees also collect pollen. The caterpillars of the butterfly Papilio polyxenes asterias (Black Swallowtail) feed on the foliage.
Photographic Location: Along a building on the campus of the University of Illinois in Urbana, Illinois. The photographed plant is the typical variety, Chaerophyllum procumbens procumbens.
Comments: The foliage of this native wildflower is similar to cultivated species of parsley and chervil. Cultivated Parsley is a biennial that doesn't naturalize in Illinois because its rosettes are unable to survive the cold weather of winter. However, Anthriscus cerefolium (Cultivated Chervil) and Anthriscus sylvestris (Bur Chervil) occasionally naturalize in Illinois (especially the latter species). Unlike Wild Chervil, both Cultivated and Bur Chervil lack bractlets underneath their umbellets. The species Chaerophyllum tainturieri (Southern Wild Chervil), which occurs in southern Illinois, is even more similar to Wild Chervil than the preceding species. The single-seeded fruits of Southern Wild Chervil are broadest below the middle and the pedicels of its flowers/fruits have a wider diameter toward the top than the bottom. In contrast, the single-seeded fruits of Wild Chervil are broadest toward the middle and the pedicels of its flowers/fruits have the same diameter throughout. Two varieties of Wild Chervil have been described: the typical variety, Chaerophyllum procumbens procumbens, has glabrous fruits, while Chaerophyllum procumbens shortii has fruits that are finely pubescent. This latter variety is less common in Illinois than the typical variety.
The upper stems terminate in compound umbels of small white flowers. The typical compound umbel has about 3 umbellets, and each umbellet has 3-7 flowers; the divergent stalks of the umbels and umbellets are green and glabrous. The flowers often bloom before the compound umbels have fully expanded. Each flower is less than 1/8" across; it has 5 white petals, 5 stamens, a divided style, insignificant sepals, and a cylindrical green ovary. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to early summer. Upon reaching maturity, each flower is replaced by a single-seeded fruit. The fruits are about ¼" long, narrowly oblongoid-ellipsoid, and broadest toward the middle; usually the fruits are glabrous, although less often they are finely pubescent. Each fruit has a few longitudinal ridges that are broad and flat; these ridges are separated by narrow grooves. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. This species is somewhat weedy.
Range & Habitat: The native Wild Chervil is common in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map). Typical habitats include lowland woodlands, open woodlands, woodland borders, thickets, rocky glades, areas adjacent to buildings, and areas along roads and railroads. Habitats with a history of disturbance and some shade are preferred.Immature Fruits
Faunal Associations: The flowers are occasionally visited by small bees (especially Halictid bees), parasitic wasps, flies (especially Syrphid flies), and beetles. These insects usually suck nectar from the flowers, although some bees also collect pollen. The caterpillars of the butterfly Papilio polyxenes asterias (Black Swallowtail) feed on the foliage.
Photographic Location: Along a building on the campus of the University of Illinois in Urbana, Illinois. The photographed plant is the typical variety, Chaerophyllum procumbens procumbens.
Comments: The foliage of this native wildflower is similar to cultivated species of parsley and chervil. Cultivated Parsley is a biennial that doesn't naturalize in Illinois because its rosettes are unable to survive the cold weather of winter. However, Anthriscus cerefolium (Cultivated Chervil) and Anthriscus sylvestris (Bur Chervil) occasionally naturalize in Illinois (especially the latter species). Unlike Wild Chervil, both Cultivated and Bur Chervil lack bractlets underneath their umbellets. The species Chaerophyllum tainturieri (Southern Wild Chervil), which occurs in southern Illinois, is even more similar to Wild Chervil than the preceding species. The single-seeded fruits of Southern Wild Chervil are broadest below the middle and the pedicels of its flowers/fruits have a wider diameter toward the top than the bottom. In contrast, the single-seeded fruits of Wild Chervil are broadest toward the middle and the pedicels of its flowers/fruits have the same diameter throughout. Two varieties of Wild Chervil have been described: the typical variety, Chaerophyllum procumbens procumbens, has glabrous fruits, while Chaerophyllum procumbens shortii has fruits that are finely pubescent. This latter variety is less common in Illinois than the typical variety.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月15日
Grapes are a popular crop in warm, arid environments. Much of southern and central California is covered with rolling hills of "wine country" -- acres and acres of trellised, flourishing grape vines and orchards. Grapes are also a popular crop for home growers, who enjoy presenting home grown crops of gra
Step 1
Diagnose your grape vines based on their symptoms. GLR materializes as small yellow clusters on the bottom of grape leaves, and small rust-colored spots on the surfaces of leaves. Vines that are affected by grapevine leaf rust will grow weak and fall off, damaging the entire plant.
Step 2
Mix a homemade remedy to treat your grapevines for rust. Mix 1 ounce of baking soda and 1 ounce of horticultural oil with 1 gallon of water in a bucket. Stir well, until the baking soda is fully mixed into the water. Using warm water may make this easier. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature before you use it on the grapevines; spraying plants with hot or very cold liquids could damage the plants.
Step 3
Spray the affected grape leaves thoroughly every 3 to 4 days until the grape leaf rust disappears.
Step 1
Diagnose your grape vines based on their symptoms. GLR materializes as small yellow clusters on the bottom of grape leaves, and small rust-colored spots on the surfaces of leaves. Vines that are affected by grapevine leaf rust will grow weak and fall off, damaging the entire plant.
Step 2
Mix a homemade remedy to treat your grapevines for rust. Mix 1 ounce of baking soda and 1 ounce of horticultural oil with 1 gallon of water in a bucket. Stir well, until the baking soda is fully mixed into the water. Using warm water may make this easier. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature before you use it on the grapevines; spraying plants with hot or very cold liquids could damage the plants.
Step 3
Spray the affected grape leaves thoroughly every 3 to 4 days until the grape leaf rust disappears.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
People have grown grapevines (Vitus spp.) for thousands of years, not only enjoying the plants' fruits fresh but also in the form of raisins, juice and wine. Although wildlife may compete with you for the bounty of your vineyard, it's still possible to grow enough of the fruits at home to give you and your family a healthful and tasty treat, though it won't happen overnight. Usually, establishing a successful grapevine planting takes three years, according to the Ohio State University Extension. Because grapevines can live up to 100 years, growing them right is worth the trouble.
Check Your Climate
Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Choose Where to Plant
A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow.
Plant Correctly
Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space.
Support Your Vines
The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly
Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results:
Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth.
Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines.
Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer.
Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year.
Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Provide Water and Mulch
Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches.
Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
Check Your Climate
Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Choose Where to Plant
A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow.
Plant Correctly
Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space.
Support Your Vines
The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly
Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results:
Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth.
Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines.
Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer.
Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year.
Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Provide Water and Mulch
Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches.
Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月24日
El culto en la primitiva Grecia
La primitiva Grecia practicó el culto de los bosques; anteriormente a la invasión helénica las encinas de Donona pronunciaban oráculos, y debajo de sus ramas se albergaba el gran Dios de los pelasgos epirotas, los Graikoi, y en toda la Grecia, tanto la europea como la asiática, no hay santuario que no tenga su bosque sagrado.
Las Hespérides, ninfas del poniente, hijas de Atlas y de Hésperis; velan las manzanas de oro que Hera recibió de Gea como regalo por su matrimonio; los antiguos situaban el jardín de las Hespérides en el extremo del mundo occidental. Con su mito del árbol del fruto de oro, son un testimonio del significado religioso que tenían las concepciones espirituales de Grecia.
El culto entre los latinos
Entre los latinos, el frondoso bosque (nemus), la selva (lucus), la arboleda de hayas (fagutala) y la fuente murmurando bajo un tupido techo de enredaderas, estaban habitados por multitud de genios silvestres y los árboles aislados eran objeto de veneración, teniendo suspendidos de sus ramas y tronco gran número de ofrendas y exvotos, pieles de animales cobrados en la caza y trofeos de guerra.
Originalmente, Venus era la diosa de los campos y jardines (cuadro de Botticelli "nacimiento de Venus" - 1846)
En toda Italia el grupo de los dioses forestales tomó una extensión particular; Faunas y Fauna o Fatua no eran sino una representación del bosque propicio a las voces favorables de la selva. Maia, Flora, los silvanos, las ninfas, Ceres, Venus (originalmente diosa de los campos y jardines) y el mismo Marte, habitaban en los bosques, en los campos y en los sembrados, activando y favoreciendo el crecimiento de los árboles y velando por el desarrollo de las mieses y frutos.
La mayor parte de estos personajes son ya seres mitológicos, verdaderas divinidades. Fauno, cuyos sobrenombres de Juno y Luperco le hacen allegado de la diosa Juno, de Jano y de Marte, tiene por hijo a Fons o Fontus, el padre de los manantiales; golpea a su compañera Fauna, con una rama de mirto y se une a ella en forma de serpiente (símbolo de la renovación).
Los germanos consagraban los bosques, dándoles los nombres de sus dioses, y de ello habla Tácito, refiriendo que vio en Rugen un bosque (castum nemus) en donde los teutones escondían el carro sagrado de la tierra y entre los naharvales vio también un bosque venerado desde muy antiguo (antiquae religionis).
La primitiva Grecia practicó el culto de los bosques; anteriormente a la invasión helénica las encinas de Donona pronunciaban oráculos, y debajo de sus ramas se albergaba el gran Dios de los pelasgos epirotas, los Graikoi, y en toda la Grecia, tanto la europea como la asiática, no hay santuario que no tenga su bosque sagrado.
Las Hespérides, ninfas del poniente, hijas de Atlas y de Hésperis; velan las manzanas de oro que Hera recibió de Gea como regalo por su matrimonio; los antiguos situaban el jardín de las Hespérides en el extremo del mundo occidental. Con su mito del árbol del fruto de oro, son un testimonio del significado religioso que tenían las concepciones espirituales de Grecia.
El culto entre los latinos
Entre los latinos, el frondoso bosque (nemus), la selva (lucus), la arboleda de hayas (fagutala) y la fuente murmurando bajo un tupido techo de enredaderas, estaban habitados por multitud de genios silvestres y los árboles aislados eran objeto de veneración, teniendo suspendidos de sus ramas y tronco gran número de ofrendas y exvotos, pieles de animales cobrados en la caza y trofeos de guerra.
Originalmente, Venus era la diosa de los campos y jardines (cuadro de Botticelli "nacimiento de Venus" - 1846)
En toda Italia el grupo de los dioses forestales tomó una extensión particular; Faunas y Fauna o Fatua no eran sino una representación del bosque propicio a las voces favorables de la selva. Maia, Flora, los silvanos, las ninfas, Ceres, Venus (originalmente diosa de los campos y jardines) y el mismo Marte, habitaban en los bosques, en los campos y en los sembrados, activando y favoreciendo el crecimiento de los árboles y velando por el desarrollo de las mieses y frutos.
La mayor parte de estos personajes son ya seres mitológicos, verdaderas divinidades. Fauno, cuyos sobrenombres de Juno y Luperco le hacen allegado de la diosa Juno, de Jano y de Marte, tiene por hijo a Fons o Fontus, el padre de los manantiales; golpea a su compañera Fauna, con una rama de mirto y se une a ella en forma de serpiente (símbolo de la renovación).
Los germanos consagraban los bosques, dándoles los nombres de sus dioses, y de ello habla Tácito, refiriendo que vio en Rugen un bosque (castum nemus) en donde los teutones escondían el carro sagrado de la tierra y entre los naharvales vio también un bosque venerado desde muy antiguo (antiquae religionis).
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Miss Chen
2017年09月22日
La papaya,Carica papaya L., es originaria de las zonas tropicales de México y Centroamérica aunque por motivos comerciales su cultivo se ha extendido a muchas otras zonas tropicales y subtropicales del mundo. Es una fruta de alto valor nutritivo, con gran sabor y propiedades medicinales. Se consume en fresco como fruta y también se utiliza para elaborar zumos, refrescos, mermeladas, encurtidos y curry. El tallo verde y los frutos segregan un látex del que se extrae la papaína utilizada en diversos productos farmacológicos.
El papayo es una planta herbácea arborescente de rápido crecimiento y corta vida, más que nada porque la producción de fruta se resiente notablemente a partir del tercer año de vida. El tallo es recto, hueco y sin ramificaciones; de él salen directamente las grandes hojas lobuladas características de la planta. Alcanza alturas considerables de entre 2 y 10 metros. El papayo puede ser masculino, femenino y hermafrodita, generalmente para la producción de fruta se prefieren los pies hermafroditas por producir un fruto más pequeño. Cuando se trata de aprovechar el látex se usan los papayos femeninos pues sus frutos son bastante más grandes y segregan más cantidad. Los pies masculinos no suelen usarse pues no son productivos. Los pies femeninos pues se prefiere que sean polinizados por papayos hermafroditas.
El papayo se puede cultivar tanto en el suelo como en maceta. Lógicamente si vivimos en un lugar de clima templado o frío será mejor cultivarlo en maceta pues no resistirá las temperaturas invernales. Prefiere una temperatura media de 20-22ºC y las heladas más ligeras pueden dañarlo irremediablemente. Además las temperaturas demasiado frescas no le permiten fructificar en condiciones. Si vamos a usar una maceta deberá tener un diámetro de unos 50 cm y una profundidad de unos 35 cm como mínimo.
Se puede cultivar directamente por semillas que podemos aprovechar de un fruto que hayamos consumido. Hay que lavarlas bien para quitar el recubrimiento gelatinoso o dejarlas en remojo dos días cambiando el agua. Retirar las semillas que floten y dejar otro día, repetir la operación y guardar las semillas que hayan quedado al fondo del recipiente en un paño húmedo durante 2-3 días. Cuando observemos un punto blanco en las semillas será el momento de sembrarlas. Es mejor hacerlo en su lugar definitivo pues no es una planta que tolere bien el transplantado. El suelo debe ser suelto y rico en materia orgánica así como contar con un buen drenaje.
Requiere que le prestemos atención al riego pues precisa de una buena tasa de humedad constante. Por regla general regaremos cuando veamos que los 2-3 cm superficiales de suelo estén secos. Como hemos dicho lo mantendremos en un lugar cálido, 20-30ºC, con mucha luz y a resguardo de las corrientes de aire. La recolección de los frutos se realiza pasados 10-12 meses de la siembra. Es una fruta que sigue madurando tras el corte y el grado de madurez en que se coseche dependerá del uso que le demos. Es decir si se le da un uso comercial hay que cosecharlos cuando están sólo parcialmente maduros pues no toleran bien el transporte si lo están por completo, cuando su color exterior es totalmente amarillo anaranjado. Mosca blanca, áfidos, ácaros, gorgojos y enfermedades fúngicas son las plagas que con más frecuencia suelen atacarle.
El papayo es una planta herbácea arborescente de rápido crecimiento y corta vida, más que nada porque la producción de fruta se resiente notablemente a partir del tercer año de vida. El tallo es recto, hueco y sin ramificaciones; de él salen directamente las grandes hojas lobuladas características de la planta. Alcanza alturas considerables de entre 2 y 10 metros. El papayo puede ser masculino, femenino y hermafrodita, generalmente para la producción de fruta se prefieren los pies hermafroditas por producir un fruto más pequeño. Cuando se trata de aprovechar el látex se usan los papayos femeninos pues sus frutos son bastante más grandes y segregan más cantidad. Los pies masculinos no suelen usarse pues no son productivos. Los pies femeninos pues se prefiere que sean polinizados por papayos hermafroditas.
El papayo se puede cultivar tanto en el suelo como en maceta. Lógicamente si vivimos en un lugar de clima templado o frío será mejor cultivarlo en maceta pues no resistirá las temperaturas invernales. Prefiere una temperatura media de 20-22ºC y las heladas más ligeras pueden dañarlo irremediablemente. Además las temperaturas demasiado frescas no le permiten fructificar en condiciones. Si vamos a usar una maceta deberá tener un diámetro de unos 50 cm y una profundidad de unos 35 cm como mínimo.
Se puede cultivar directamente por semillas que podemos aprovechar de un fruto que hayamos consumido. Hay que lavarlas bien para quitar el recubrimiento gelatinoso o dejarlas en remojo dos días cambiando el agua. Retirar las semillas que floten y dejar otro día, repetir la operación y guardar las semillas que hayan quedado al fondo del recipiente en un paño húmedo durante 2-3 días. Cuando observemos un punto blanco en las semillas será el momento de sembrarlas. Es mejor hacerlo en su lugar definitivo pues no es una planta que tolere bien el transplantado. El suelo debe ser suelto y rico en materia orgánica así como contar con un buen drenaje.
Requiere que le prestemos atención al riego pues precisa de una buena tasa de humedad constante. Por regla general regaremos cuando veamos que los 2-3 cm superficiales de suelo estén secos. Como hemos dicho lo mantendremos en un lugar cálido, 20-30ºC, con mucha luz y a resguardo de las corrientes de aire. La recolección de los frutos se realiza pasados 10-12 meses de la siembra. Es una fruta que sigue madurando tras el corte y el grado de madurez en que se coseche dependerá del uso que le demos. Es decir si se le da un uso comercial hay que cosecharlos cuando están sólo parcialmente maduros pues no toleran bien el transporte si lo están por completo, cuando su color exterior es totalmente amarillo anaranjado. Mosca blanca, áfidos, ácaros, gorgojos y enfermedades fúngicas son las plagas que con más frecuencia suelen atacarle.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Blossfeldia is the smallest of the cacti. Although several species of Blossfeldia have been described, most botanist agree on the fact that all the ones described until now should be included in Blossfeldia liliputana. The Blossfeldia is much easier to grow when grafted. Because of their slow growth rate, Blossfeldias are often grafted, which causes them to grow very fast and offset heavily but lose their characteristic disc-like shape, becoming quite globular and bloated. In this case the minimum temperatures acceptable should take in account the requirements for the rootstock.
Growing Conditions
Light: Some shade with ample airflow is preferred for best appearance.
Temperature: Blossfeldia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and can tolerate sporadic frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather with little danger of being killed (Frost tolerance: At least 15°F (-10°C)). However in cultivation it is better not to expose it to temperatures lower than 40°F (5°C), even if in an aerated and protected location. It tends to rot in winter during the resting phase, if kept wet.
Water: Water during the growing period from March till October, the thin, fibrous roots suffer if there is humidity, therefore the plant should be watered only when the surrounding terrain is dry. But needs to be avoided wetting the bodies of these plants while they are in sunlight. A wet plant in the sun light can cause sun burning which can lead to scares or even fungal infections and death. Keep dry as soon as the temperature starts dropping in October and keep it perfectly dry in winter at temperatures from 40-60°F (5-15°C). Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days.
Soil: Grow it in a particularly draining substratum, as it is very sensitive to rottenness when in presence of humidity and low temperatures and let the soil dry out between waterings.
Fertilizer: It grows faster with a low nitrogen content fertilizer in spring and summer.
Propagation
Almost exclusively by seed and graft. The minuscule seeds should be sown on the surface of a very finely sifted soil mix. These plants are very slow growing and is very difficult to keep them alive on their own roots for the first 4-6 months and should be watered by carefully misting with a hand held spray bottle until they are large enough to be watered normally.
Pests and Problems
It may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
Growing Conditions
Light: Some shade with ample airflow is preferred for best appearance.
Temperature: Blossfeldia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and can tolerate sporadic frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather with little danger of being killed (Frost tolerance: At least 15°F (-10°C)). However in cultivation it is better not to expose it to temperatures lower than 40°F (5°C), even if in an aerated and protected location. It tends to rot in winter during the resting phase, if kept wet.
Water: Water during the growing period from March till October, the thin, fibrous roots suffer if there is humidity, therefore the plant should be watered only when the surrounding terrain is dry. But needs to be avoided wetting the bodies of these plants while they are in sunlight. A wet plant in the sun light can cause sun burning which can lead to scares or even fungal infections and death. Keep dry as soon as the temperature starts dropping in October and keep it perfectly dry in winter at temperatures from 40-60°F (5-15°C). Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days.
Soil: Grow it in a particularly draining substratum, as it is very sensitive to rottenness when in presence of humidity and low temperatures and let the soil dry out between waterings.
Fertilizer: It grows faster with a low nitrogen content fertilizer in spring and summer.
Propagation
Almost exclusively by seed and graft. The minuscule seeds should be sown on the surface of a very finely sifted soil mix. These plants are very slow growing and is very difficult to keep them alive on their own roots for the first 4-6 months and should be watered by carefully misting with a hand held spray bottle until they are large enough to be watered normally.
Pests and Problems
It may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
You can find succulents in just about every garden center, big box store and even the grocery store now. While these plants are relatively easy to care for, there are times when your plants may not look very healthy. Even if you have the greenest of “green thumbs” (or not) here are a few tips to help keep your succulents healthy.
1. You are Giving Them Too Much Water
Succulents don’t need to be watered like your common or typical houseplant. Well drained soil is a must…water when the soil is dry. Give your plant a thorough soaking and let the excess water drain out.
2. The Planting Container is Too Small
Did you find a cute tea cup or flower pot for your succulent? Sure it looks cute, but does it give the roots the room it needs to grow? Probably not. The depth of the container should be twice as deep as the roots of the plant, while the width should be at least three times as wide. This gives the plant plenty of room to spread out!
3. The Planting Container Doesn’t Provide Drainage
People love panting succulents in cute containers, but the truth is if they don’t have proper drainage they will never work. Your container should have several drainage holes where water can escape. A piece of net over the holes can help dirt from escaping in the process.
4. They aren’t Getting Enough Light
Succulents love warm weather and plenty of light. Not every succulent needs to be in direct sunlight all day long, be sure to know the exact light requirements of your plants. Shade is NOT good for succulents, they will loose their color and will get “leggy” stretching for the light.
5. Your Soil Isn’t Nutrient Rich
Succulents love nutrient rich soil. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering.
6. You Need to Transplant Them
If your succulent has been in a container for several months and seems to be thriving, you need to repot it into a larger container. By doing so you will give it more room to grow and it won’t get cramped and smothered by its own roots.
Are you ready to enjoy more healthy, vibrant, and ALIVE succulents? Give these 6 reasons your succulents are dying your consideration, make the changes needed, and enjoy the succulents you have always dreamed of.
1. You are Giving Them Too Much Water
Succulents don’t need to be watered like your common or typical houseplant. Well drained soil is a must…water when the soil is dry. Give your plant a thorough soaking and let the excess water drain out.
2. The Planting Container is Too Small
Did you find a cute tea cup or flower pot for your succulent? Sure it looks cute, but does it give the roots the room it needs to grow? Probably not. The depth of the container should be twice as deep as the roots of the plant, while the width should be at least three times as wide. This gives the plant plenty of room to spread out!
3. The Planting Container Doesn’t Provide Drainage
People love panting succulents in cute containers, but the truth is if they don’t have proper drainage they will never work. Your container should have several drainage holes where water can escape. A piece of net over the holes can help dirt from escaping in the process.
4. They aren’t Getting Enough Light
Succulents love warm weather and plenty of light. Not every succulent needs to be in direct sunlight all day long, be sure to know the exact light requirements of your plants. Shade is NOT good for succulents, they will loose their color and will get “leggy” stretching for the light.
5. Your Soil Isn’t Nutrient Rich
Succulents love nutrient rich soil. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering.
6. You Need to Transplant Them
If your succulent has been in a container for several months and seems to be thriving, you need to repot it into a larger container. By doing so you will give it more room to grow and it won’t get cramped and smothered by its own roots.
Are you ready to enjoy more healthy, vibrant, and ALIVE succulents? Give these 6 reasons your succulents are dying your consideration, make the changes needed, and enjoy the succulents you have always dreamed of.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月03日
Estas 6 plantas medicinales te serán muy útiles para utilizar en casos y situaciones muy comunes durante el verano como quemaduras solares, heridas o picaduras de insectos.
La Avena: muele 300 gr de avena, que quede un polvo muy finito y añádelo a la bañera. Date un baño durante 20 minutos y se aliviarán las quemaduras solares, las picaduras, mejorará la salud de la piel y la dejará hidratada y suave. Incluso es útil para eliminar el acné por su capacidad para limpiar y purificar.
La Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis Miller): una planta con multitud de aplicaciones medicinales, que cuida la piel como pocas. Esta planta tiene la propiedad de regenerar rápidamente la piel y es muy efectiva para las quemaduras solares, incluso elimina las ampollas. Además es muy efectiva para eliminar o minimizar las estrias o marcas en la piel. También la podemos usar para protegernos del sol de forma natural.
La Pamplina (Stellaria media): es muy útil aplicada localmente en forma de cataplasma para aliviar el dolor de las picaduras, la irritación y bajar la inflamación, además favorece la curación de las heridas y las úlceras en la piel. También es muy efectiva para tratar la psoriasis o los eccemas y tiene gran poder depurativo. Igualmente tiene usos culinarios, ya que es remineralizante y sus hojas se pueden añadir a las ensaladas
La Menta (Mentha x piperita): La menta es otra planta muy útil, pues es un remedio natural para el dolor de cabeza, para aliviar los síntomas de los mareos, la indigestión, hinchazón, digestiones lentas, gases, etc. Pero además si la aplicamos localmente alivia la piel irritada. Simplemente prepara una infusión y aplícala cuando se haya enfriado sobre la zona que quieras tratar.
El Llantén mayor (Plantago spp): sus hojas son comestibles y se pueden incluir en platos como ensaladas o utilizar como las espinacas. Es muy efectiva aplicada localmente para aliviar la hinchazón y dolor de las picaduras, quemaduras solares, piel irritada, heridas, cortes, etc. Machaca las hojas y añade un poco de agua para hacer una cataplasma, aplícalo sobre la zona afectada y déjalo actuar unos 15 ó 30 minutos. Además el llantén purifica la sangre y las vías respiratorias.
El Jengibre (Zingiber officinale): este rizoma es muy apreciado desde hace miles de años por sus múltiples propiedades medicinales. Una de ellas es la de evitar los mareos cuando vamos en el coche u otros medios de transporte. Haz un té de jengibre, añádelo rallado a algún postre, a zumos naturales, etc. antes de viajar y evitarás los mareos.
La Avena: muele 300 gr de avena, que quede un polvo muy finito y añádelo a la bañera. Date un baño durante 20 minutos y se aliviarán las quemaduras solares, las picaduras, mejorará la salud de la piel y la dejará hidratada y suave. Incluso es útil para eliminar el acné por su capacidad para limpiar y purificar.
La Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis Miller): una planta con multitud de aplicaciones medicinales, que cuida la piel como pocas. Esta planta tiene la propiedad de regenerar rápidamente la piel y es muy efectiva para las quemaduras solares, incluso elimina las ampollas. Además es muy efectiva para eliminar o minimizar las estrias o marcas en la piel. También la podemos usar para protegernos del sol de forma natural.
La Pamplina (Stellaria media): es muy útil aplicada localmente en forma de cataplasma para aliviar el dolor de las picaduras, la irritación y bajar la inflamación, además favorece la curación de las heridas y las úlceras en la piel. También es muy efectiva para tratar la psoriasis o los eccemas y tiene gran poder depurativo. Igualmente tiene usos culinarios, ya que es remineralizante y sus hojas se pueden añadir a las ensaladas
La Menta (Mentha x piperita): La menta es otra planta muy útil, pues es un remedio natural para el dolor de cabeza, para aliviar los síntomas de los mareos, la indigestión, hinchazón, digestiones lentas, gases, etc. Pero además si la aplicamos localmente alivia la piel irritada. Simplemente prepara una infusión y aplícala cuando se haya enfriado sobre la zona que quieras tratar.
El Llantén mayor (Plantago spp): sus hojas son comestibles y se pueden incluir en platos como ensaladas o utilizar como las espinacas. Es muy efectiva aplicada localmente para aliviar la hinchazón y dolor de las picaduras, quemaduras solares, piel irritada, heridas, cortes, etc. Machaca las hojas y añade un poco de agua para hacer una cataplasma, aplícalo sobre la zona afectada y déjalo actuar unos 15 ó 30 minutos. Además el llantén purifica la sangre y las vías respiratorias.
El Jengibre (Zingiber officinale): este rizoma es muy apreciado desde hace miles de años por sus múltiples propiedades medicinales. Una de ellas es la de evitar los mareos cuando vamos en el coche u otros medios de transporte. Haz un té de jengibre, añádelo rallado a algún postre, a zumos naturales, etc. antes de viajar y evitarás los mareos.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Everyone knows what a tree is and what a strawberry is, but what is a strawberry tree? According to strawberry tree information, this is a lovely little evergreen ornamental, offering lovely flowers and strawberry-like fruit. Read on for tips on how to grow a strawberry tree and its care.
What is a Strawberry Tree?
The strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) is a charming shrub or small tree that is extremely decorative in your garden. It’s a relative of the madrone tree, and even shares the same common name in some regions. You can grow this plant as a multi-trunked shrub in a hedge, or prune it down to one trunk and grow it as a specimen tree.
Growing Strawberry Trees
If you start growing strawberry trees, you’ll find that they have many delightful features. The shedding bark on trunks and branches is attractive. It’s a deep, reddish brown and becomes gnarled as the trees age. The leaves are oval with a serrate edge. They are a shiny dark green, while the petiole stems attaching them to the branches are bright red. The tree produces abundant bunches of tiny white blossoms. They hang like bells at the branch tips and, when pollinated by bees, they produce strawberry-like fruit the following year.
Both flowers and fruits are attractive and ornamental. Unfortunately, strawberry tree information suggests that the fruit, while edible, is quite bland and tastes more like pear than berry. So don’t start growing strawberry trees expecting real strawberries. On the other hand, taste the fruit to see if you like it. Wait until it is ripe and falls from the tree. Alternatively, pick it off the tree when it gets a little squishy.
How to Grow a Strawberry Tree
You’ll do best growing strawberry trees in USDA zones 8b through 11. Plant the trees in full sun or partial sun, but be sure you find a site with well-draining soil. Either sand or loam works well. It grows in either acidic or alkaline soil. Strawberry tree care involves regular irrigation, especially the first few years after planting. The tree is reasonably drought tolerant after establishment, and you don’t have to worry about its root breaking up sewers or cement.
What is a Strawberry Tree?
The strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) is a charming shrub or small tree that is extremely decorative in your garden. It’s a relative of the madrone tree, and even shares the same common name in some regions. You can grow this plant as a multi-trunked shrub in a hedge, or prune it down to one trunk and grow it as a specimen tree.
Growing Strawberry Trees
If you start growing strawberry trees, you’ll find that they have many delightful features. The shedding bark on trunks and branches is attractive. It’s a deep, reddish brown and becomes gnarled as the trees age. The leaves are oval with a serrate edge. They are a shiny dark green, while the petiole stems attaching them to the branches are bright red. The tree produces abundant bunches of tiny white blossoms. They hang like bells at the branch tips and, when pollinated by bees, they produce strawberry-like fruit the following year.
Both flowers and fruits are attractive and ornamental. Unfortunately, strawberry tree information suggests that the fruit, while edible, is quite bland and tastes more like pear than berry. So don’t start growing strawberry trees expecting real strawberries. On the other hand, taste the fruit to see if you like it. Wait until it is ripe and falls from the tree. Alternatively, pick it off the tree when it gets a little squishy.
How to Grow a Strawberry Tree
You’ll do best growing strawberry trees in USDA zones 8b through 11. Plant the trees in full sun or partial sun, but be sure you find a site with well-draining soil. Either sand or loam works well. It grows in either acidic or alkaline soil. Strawberry tree care involves regular irrigation, especially the first few years after planting. The tree is reasonably drought tolerant after establishment, and you don’t have to worry about its root breaking up sewers or cement.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
English ivy (Hedera helix) is a vigorous, widely grown plant appreciated for its glossy, palmate leaves. English ivy is extremely hale and hearty, tolerating severe winters as far north as USDA zone 9. However, this versatile vine is just as happy when grown as a houseplant. Whether English ivy is grown indoors or out, this fast-growing plant benefits from an occasional trim to stimulate new growth, improve air circulation and keep the vine within boundaries and looking its best. Trimming also creates a full, healthy-looking plant. Read on to learn more about pruning English ivy.
When to Trim Ivy Plants Outdoors
If you’re growing English ivy as a ground cover, ivy plant trimming is best done before new growth appears in spring. Set your mower on the highest cutting height to prevent scalping the plant. You can also prune English ivy with hedge shears, especially if the ground is rocky. English ivy pruning depends on growth, and may need to be done every other year, or as often as every year. Use clippers or a weed trimmer to trim along sidewalks or borders as often as needed. Similarly, if your English ivy vine is trained to a trellis or other support, use clippers to prune out unwanted growth.
Ivy Plant Trimming Indoors
Pruning English ivy indoors prevents the plant from becoming long and leggy. Simply pinch or snap the vine with your fingers just above a leaf, or prune the plant with clippers or scissors. Although you can discard the cuttings, you can also use them to propagate a new plant. Just stick the cuttings in a vase of water, then set the vase in a sunny window. When roots are about ½ to 1 inch long, plant the new English ivy in a pot filled with well-drained potting mix.
When to Trim Ivy Plants Outdoors
If you’re growing English ivy as a ground cover, ivy plant trimming is best done before new growth appears in spring. Set your mower on the highest cutting height to prevent scalping the plant. You can also prune English ivy with hedge shears, especially if the ground is rocky. English ivy pruning depends on growth, and may need to be done every other year, or as often as every year. Use clippers or a weed trimmer to trim along sidewalks or borders as often as needed. Similarly, if your English ivy vine is trained to a trellis or other support, use clippers to prune out unwanted growth.
Ivy Plant Trimming Indoors
Pruning English ivy indoors prevents the plant from becoming long and leggy. Simply pinch or snap the vine with your fingers just above a leaf, or prune the plant with clippers or scissors. Although you can discard the cuttings, you can also use them to propagate a new plant. Just stick the cuttings in a vase of water, then set the vase in a sunny window. When roots are about ½ to 1 inch long, plant the new English ivy in a pot filled with well-drained potting mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Monkey grass (Liriope spicata) is a grass that is quite common in areas that are hilly or uneven because they fill in the area quite nicely. It comes in thick and is quite easy to grow. A lot of people are not sure about what to do about pruning monkey grass or cutting monkey grass. They ask themselves, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” or “may I mow it, or do I need to trim with clippers?” When you worry about how well you take care of your yard or land, you might be worried, but there is nothing to worry about.
What is Monkey Grass?
Monkey grass is a member of the lily family. What makes turfs from the lily family so desirable a landscape material is that they are quite versatile and can handle many different environmental conditions. Monkey grass can handle hot conditions better than a lot of shrubs and ground covers can. They are especially easy to grow and maintain on steep slopes where it is hard to maintain any sort of grass.
Tips for Trimming Back Monkey Grass
If you are wondering when to cut back monkey grass or can you mow monkey grass, you are not alone. A lot of people don’t know what to do with it. Pruning monkey grass or trimming back monkey grass isn’t too complicated. It will start to grow by mid-spring. If you want to know when to cut back monkey grass, you can cut the plants back to 3 inches early spring. Pruning monkey grass helps take out the battered leaves and permits new leaves to come in and flourish. Cutting monkey grass with a lawnmower or trimmer is great for larger areas of the grass, but trimmers work just as well on pruning monkey grass where it is growing in a smaller area.
After trimming back monkey grass, you can fertilize and feed the area. Be sure to include weed control as well. If you have just finished trimming back monkey grass, make sure to mulch the area with straw, bark or compost. This way it will be ready for a new season of growing. If you are wondering, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” you now know you can cut it as if you used a mower, or use a mower for cutting monkey grass so you can get it read for the growing season. This way it will be healthy and fill in nicely.
What is Monkey Grass?
Monkey grass is a member of the lily family. What makes turfs from the lily family so desirable a landscape material is that they are quite versatile and can handle many different environmental conditions. Monkey grass can handle hot conditions better than a lot of shrubs and ground covers can. They are especially easy to grow and maintain on steep slopes where it is hard to maintain any sort of grass.
Tips for Trimming Back Monkey Grass
If you are wondering when to cut back monkey grass or can you mow monkey grass, you are not alone. A lot of people don’t know what to do with it. Pruning monkey grass or trimming back monkey grass isn’t too complicated. It will start to grow by mid-spring. If you want to know when to cut back monkey grass, you can cut the plants back to 3 inches early spring. Pruning monkey grass helps take out the battered leaves and permits new leaves to come in and flourish. Cutting monkey grass with a lawnmower or trimmer is great for larger areas of the grass, but trimmers work just as well on pruning monkey grass where it is growing in a smaller area.
After trimming back monkey grass, you can fertilize and feed the area. Be sure to include weed control as well. If you have just finished trimming back monkey grass, make sure to mulch the area with straw, bark or compost. This way it will be ready for a new season of growing. If you are wondering, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” you now know you can cut it as if you used a mower, or use a mower for cutting monkey grass so you can get it read for the growing season. This way it will be healthy and fill in nicely.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
In some places dichondra, a low growing plant and member of the morning glory family, is seen as a weed. In other places, however, it is valued as an attractive ground cover or even a substitute for a small lawn area. Let’s find out more about how to grow dichondra ground cover.
Dichondra Plant Info
Dichondra (Dichondra repens) is a perennial ground cover plant (in USDA zones 7-11) that has a somewhat upright, creeping habit with circular leaves. It is not usually over 2 inches in height and retains its bright green color in temperatures as low as 25 F. (-3 C.). When this ground cover becomes full, it appears as a dense carpet-like grass and is often planted in places where other turf-type grass does not grow well.
Silver dichondra is a green-silver annual ground cover that is often used in hanging baskets and pots. The cascading habit also makes this attractive plant perfect for rock walls or window boxes. This low maintenance plant with fan-shaped foliage, does well in full sun, requires only minimal care and is drought resistant.
How to Grow Dichondra
Proper preparation of the seedbed is essential to growing dichondra plants. A weed-free raked area is best. Dichondra prefers loose, clod-free and well-drained soil in partial shade to full sun. Seed should be lightly scattered over the loosened soil bed and watered until wet but not soggy. Depending on how sunny the planting area is, seeds may need to be watered a few times a day until they begin to sprout. Covering the seeds with a light layer of peat moss helps with moisture retention.
It is best to plant seed when the temperatures are in the 70’s (21 C.) during the day and the 50’s (10 C.) at night. This can be in either early spring or even early fall. The growing dichondra seeds will sprout within 7 to 14 days depending on conditions.
Dichondra Care
Once plants are established, a deep and infrequent watering is necessary. It is best to allow the plants to dry out slightly between watering. If using as a lawn alternative, the dichondra can be mowed to a suitable height. Most people find that mowing to around 1 ½ inches in the summer is best and requires cutting every two weeks. Provide ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per month during the growing season for a healthy cover.
Apply a pre-emergent weed control on the ground cover to keep weeds at bay. Never use an herbicide containing 2-4D on dichondra plants, as they will die. Remove broadleaf weeds by hand for best results.
Dichondra Plant Info
Dichondra (Dichondra repens) is a perennial ground cover plant (in USDA zones 7-11) that has a somewhat upright, creeping habit with circular leaves. It is not usually over 2 inches in height and retains its bright green color in temperatures as low as 25 F. (-3 C.). When this ground cover becomes full, it appears as a dense carpet-like grass and is often planted in places where other turf-type grass does not grow well.
Silver dichondra is a green-silver annual ground cover that is often used in hanging baskets and pots. The cascading habit also makes this attractive plant perfect for rock walls or window boxes. This low maintenance plant with fan-shaped foliage, does well in full sun, requires only minimal care and is drought resistant.
How to Grow Dichondra
Proper preparation of the seedbed is essential to growing dichondra plants. A weed-free raked area is best. Dichondra prefers loose, clod-free and well-drained soil in partial shade to full sun. Seed should be lightly scattered over the loosened soil bed and watered until wet but not soggy. Depending on how sunny the planting area is, seeds may need to be watered a few times a day until they begin to sprout. Covering the seeds with a light layer of peat moss helps with moisture retention.
It is best to plant seed when the temperatures are in the 70’s (21 C.) during the day and the 50’s (10 C.) at night. This can be in either early spring or even early fall. The growing dichondra seeds will sprout within 7 to 14 days depending on conditions.
Dichondra Care
Once plants are established, a deep and infrequent watering is necessary. It is best to allow the plants to dry out slightly between watering. If using as a lawn alternative, the dichondra can be mowed to a suitable height. Most people find that mowing to around 1 ½ inches in the summer is best and requires cutting every two weeks. Provide ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per month during the growing season for a healthy cover.
Apply a pre-emergent weed control on the ground cover to keep weeds at bay. Never use an herbicide containing 2-4D on dichondra plants, as they will die. Remove broadleaf weeds by hand for best results.
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