文章
莹723
2020年11月09日
It’s becoming more and more chilly outside, but there are still some vegetable seeds that you can sow in November, including beans and salad leaves.To increase the chances of success, try to use a heated propagator or greenhouse.
Discover five vegetable seeds to sow in November, below. They will reward you with an early harvest the following year.
1-Broad beans
It’s a good idea to buy some Broad bean seeds. Broad beans can be sown in the ground in autumn or alternatively in pots.
2-Salad leaves
Salad leaves like mizuna, mustard and spinach are an easy win. Try sowing indoors on a bright windowsill for winter pickings.
3-Spring onion ‘Performer’
Hardier varieties of spring onion, such as ‘Performer’, can be sown in autumn for winter and spring harvests. It does well in pots, making protecting the young plants easier, too. Protect in a greenhouse or with cloches.
4-First early peas
Sow first early peas like ‘Meteor’ and ‘Kelvedon Wonder’ in autumn to overwinter, providing harvests in early spring. Protect the peas from slugs,
birds and mice by growing in covered containers.
5-Chillies
Chilli peppers, such as ‘Apache’ and ‘Medusa’ can be sown anytime of year, to be grown indoors on the windowsill. In November, when the days are shorter, you’ll want to provide them with warmth, and the brightest spot possible.
Discover five vegetable seeds to sow in November, below. They will reward you with an early harvest the following year.
1-Broad beans
It’s a good idea to buy some Broad bean seeds. Broad beans can be sown in the ground in autumn or alternatively in pots.
2-Salad leaves
Salad leaves like mizuna, mustard and spinach are an easy win. Try sowing indoors on a bright windowsill for winter pickings.
3-Spring onion ‘Performer’
Hardier varieties of spring onion, such as ‘Performer’, can be sown in autumn for winter and spring harvests. It does well in pots, making protecting the young plants easier, too. Protect in a greenhouse or with cloches.
4-First early peas
Sow first early peas like ‘Meteor’ and ‘Kelvedon Wonder’ in autumn to overwinter, providing harvests in early spring. Protect the peas from slugs,
birds and mice by growing in covered containers.
5-Chillies
Chilli peppers, such as ‘Apache’ and ‘Medusa’ can be sown anytime of year, to be grown indoors on the windowsill. In November, when the days are shorter, you’ll want to provide them with warmth, and the brightest spot possible.
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文章
ritau
2020年06月07日
Mealybugs are insects in the family Pseudococcidae, unarmored scale insects found in moist, warm habitats. Many species are considered pests by some humans as they feed on plant juices of greenhouse plants, house plants and subtropical trees and also act as a vector for several plant diseases. Some Ants, however live in symbiotic relationships with them.
Methods
*Killing Small Infestations with Rubbing Alcohol
1. Dip a cotton swab in 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Avoid using other kinds of alcohol or you could damage the plant you’re treating.
2. Rub the cotton swab over the surface of the infested plant. Make sure you get underneath the leaves and inside the crevices on the branches. Mealybugs tend to hide in hard-to-reach places, so it’s important you completely cover the plant you’re treating with the rubbing alcohol.
3. Use a spray bottle to apply rubbing alcohol to large plants. Fill the spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and spray it over the surface of large plants that are infested with mealybugs.
4. Remove any mealybugs you see on the plant. Mealybugs look like small, white bugs with a waxy coating. Pick the mealybugs off with your hand and dispose of them in the trash. Mealybugs don't bite, but you may want to wear gardening gloves so you don't get their waxy coating on your fingers.
5. Repeat weekly until the mealybugs are gone. Since mealybugs are good at hiding in hard to reach places, you'll likely need to do multiple applications of rubbing alcohol before they're all killed. Even if you don't see anymore mealybugs, it's a good idea to do a few more applications just in case there are some lingering bugs.You'll know the mealybugs are gone when you can't see anymore on the plant and the plant remains healthy and green.
*Using Neem Oil for Potted or Shaded Plants
1. Mix together water, liquid dish soap, and neem oil in a spray bottle. Use 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of neem oil and 2-3 drops of dish soap. Neem oil is a vegetable oil that comes from neem trees that can be used to kill mealybugs.
2. Spray the plant you’re treating until it’s soaked. Make sure you spray underneath the leaves, at the base of the branches, and over the top of the soil the plant is in. You want the mealybugs to be completely smothered with the neem oil mixture.
3. Move the plant to a shaded area to dry. Don’t keep the plant in direct sunlight or extreme heat or it could burn. If you’re spraying outdoor plants that are rooted in the ground, wait for a shady day when it’s below 85 °F (29 °C) out.
4. Spray the plant weekly until the mealybugs are gone. One application of neem oil probably won’t kill all the mealybugs on the plant. Because mealybugs have a rapid lifecycle, you’ll need to routinely kill the newly-hatched bugs every week until all of the mealybugs have been killed off.
If the plant looks healthy and you don't see anymore mealybugs on it, they're most likely gone.
Methods
*Killing Small Infestations with Rubbing Alcohol
1. Dip a cotton swab in 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Avoid using other kinds of alcohol or you could damage the plant you’re treating.
2. Rub the cotton swab over the surface of the infested plant. Make sure you get underneath the leaves and inside the crevices on the branches. Mealybugs tend to hide in hard-to-reach places, so it’s important you completely cover the plant you’re treating with the rubbing alcohol.
3. Use a spray bottle to apply rubbing alcohol to large plants. Fill the spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and spray it over the surface of large plants that are infested with mealybugs.
4. Remove any mealybugs you see on the plant. Mealybugs look like small, white bugs with a waxy coating. Pick the mealybugs off with your hand and dispose of them in the trash. Mealybugs don't bite, but you may want to wear gardening gloves so you don't get their waxy coating on your fingers.
5. Repeat weekly until the mealybugs are gone. Since mealybugs are good at hiding in hard to reach places, you'll likely need to do multiple applications of rubbing alcohol before they're all killed. Even if you don't see anymore mealybugs, it's a good idea to do a few more applications just in case there are some lingering bugs.You'll know the mealybugs are gone when you can't see anymore on the plant and the plant remains healthy and green.
*Using Neem Oil for Potted or Shaded Plants
1. Mix together water, liquid dish soap, and neem oil in a spray bottle. Use 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of neem oil and 2-3 drops of dish soap. Neem oil is a vegetable oil that comes from neem trees that can be used to kill mealybugs.
2. Spray the plant you’re treating until it’s soaked. Make sure you spray underneath the leaves, at the base of the branches, and over the top of the soil the plant is in. You want the mealybugs to be completely smothered with the neem oil mixture.
3. Move the plant to a shaded area to dry. Don’t keep the plant in direct sunlight or extreme heat or it could burn. If you’re spraying outdoor plants that are rooted in the ground, wait for a shady day when it’s below 85 °F (29 °C) out.
4. Spray the plant weekly until the mealybugs are gone. One application of neem oil probably won’t kill all the mealybugs on the plant. Because mealybugs have a rapid lifecycle, you’ll need to routinely kill the newly-hatched bugs every week until all of the mealybugs have been killed off.
If the plant looks healthy and you don't see anymore mealybugs on it, they're most likely gone.
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木林
2018年12月17日
12月9日，从Ashton court剪月季枝回来扦插，放院里greenhouse ，不知道温度够不够。同日去朋友家剪回三角梅扦插
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木林：扦插月季两周多，怕院里暖房太冷，搬回室内，靠近窗台处，温度12到15度。三角梅在楼上卧室，19到20度，插沙子的那盆叶子已经掉光，但是能看到新芽。月季也有掉叶现象，但不严重，没罩起来，但每天喷水
木林：一半粗沙，一半椰糠，看下哪种生根效果好。之前剪下来没来得及扦插，在放了生根胶的水里泡了一天，感觉应该去买点生根粉了。
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
If you have begun your potatoes in a greenhouse or if you need to move your potatoes to another spot in the garden , your potato plants can be safely transplanted by following a few simple steps. Potato plants should be transplanted at least three weeks before harvest on a cooler day.
Step 1
Prepare the soil where the potatoes will be transplanted. The soil should be dug up, cleared of rocks and mixed with compost in the fall. Choose a location that is sunny and that is rotational--i.e., not the same place you grew potatoes last year. Rake in fertilizer two weeks before transplanting. The soil's pH level should not be higher than 6.
Step 2
Harden the soil of potatoes to be transplanted from a greenhouse by placing them outdoors. Start hardening a week before transplanting. Place them outdoors for about one hour the first day, then gradually set them out for longer each day after.
Step 3
Dig transplant holes in the ground. The holes should be approximately six inches wide and eight inches deep, varying depending on the maturity of the plants and the size of containers they were pre-grown in. The top of the soil of the plant being transplanted should sit at surface of the ground when planted. Make the holes far enough apart that the potatoes will not be overcrowded. Give room to transplants that still have growing to do. Moisten the soil evenly before transplanting.
Step 4
Dig out potato plants to be transplanted by slicing the soil around the plant with a garden trowel. Dig far enough away from the plant so as to not hit or cut the potato in the ground. Use your hand shovel or a hoe to carefully and gently pry up the plant. Keep it packed in as much soil as possible. Promptly move the plant to its transplant hole.
Step 5
Remove potatoes grown in a container by placing one hand on the soil and around the plant, turning it upside down and tapping on the bottom of the container. Promptly move them to the transplant holes.
Step 6
Fill in any gaps in the holes with soil and smooth down the surface of the ground. Do not pack in the soil too tightly. Water thoroughly. Place a layer of mulch around the stems.
Step 1
Prepare the soil where the potatoes will be transplanted. The soil should be dug up, cleared of rocks and mixed with compost in the fall. Choose a location that is sunny and that is rotational--i.e., not the same place you grew potatoes last year. Rake in fertilizer two weeks before transplanting. The soil's pH level should not be higher than 6.
Step 2
Harden the soil of potatoes to be transplanted from a greenhouse by placing them outdoors. Start hardening a week before transplanting. Place them outdoors for about one hour the first day, then gradually set them out for longer each day after.
Step 3
Dig transplant holes in the ground. The holes should be approximately six inches wide and eight inches deep, varying depending on the maturity of the plants and the size of containers they were pre-grown in. The top of the soil of the plant being transplanted should sit at surface of the ground when planted. Make the holes far enough apart that the potatoes will not be overcrowded. Give room to transplants that still have growing to do. Moisten the soil evenly before transplanting.
Step 4
Dig out potato plants to be transplanted by slicing the soil around the plant with a garden trowel. Dig far enough away from the plant so as to not hit or cut the potato in the ground. Use your hand shovel or a hoe to carefully and gently pry up the plant. Keep it packed in as much soil as possible. Promptly move the plant to its transplant hole.
Step 5
Remove potatoes grown in a container by placing one hand on the soil and around the plant, turning it upside down and tapping on the bottom of the container. Promptly move them to the transplant holes.
Step 6
Fill in any gaps in the holes with soil and smooth down the surface of the ground. Do not pack in the soil too tightly. Water thoroughly. Place a layer of mulch around the stems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月02日
If you think the gardening season is limited to spring, summer and fall, think again. A surprising number of vegetables grow well throughout the winter, and with a little help from a greenhouse, you'll hardly miss your summer garden.
Greens
Many of the typical garden salad greens are suitable for a winter garden. Plant lettuce, spinach, mustard, chard, kale and collards in September for harvest in late winter.
Herbs
In the herb garden, try sage, parsley, cilantro, rosemary and thyme. These usually grow well in areas with mild winters.
Other Vegetables
Plant broccoli, cabbage, kale, collards, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, onions and turnips in September for use in late winter and early spring. Start beets, carrots and peas in August for harvest throughout the winter.
Warm Weather Crops
While tomatoes, sweet potatoes, peppers and eggplants rarely survive the entire winter, they can be planted in a greenhouse during the late winter for an early harvest that spring. If you're fortunate enough to have a heated greenhouse, nearly all warm weather crops will grow throughout the winter.
Greens
Many of the typical garden salad greens are suitable for a winter garden. Plant lettuce, spinach, mustard, chard, kale and collards in September for harvest in late winter.
Herbs
In the herb garden, try sage, parsley, cilantro, rosemary and thyme. These usually grow well in areas with mild winters.
Other Vegetables
Plant broccoli, cabbage, kale, collards, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, onions and turnips in September for use in late winter and early spring. Start beets, carrots and peas in August for harvest throughout the winter.
Warm Weather Crops
While tomatoes, sweet potatoes, peppers and eggplants rarely survive the entire winter, they can be planted in a greenhouse during the late winter for an early harvest that spring. If you're fortunate enough to have a heated greenhouse, nearly all warm weather crops will grow throughout the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Growing broccoli in a greenhouse gives you the ability to enjoy fresh broccoli year round. Although a greenhouse offers an enclosed environment in which to grow a variety of seasonal plants, if you live in an area with wide temperature swings, you must still control the temperature inside the greenhouse. Cold nights, for instance, can frostbite plants in an unheated greenhouse, wasting your hard work.
Step 1
Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature.
Step 2
Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air.
Step 3
Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep.
Step 4
Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible.
Step 5
Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6
Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms.
Step 7
Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months.
Step 8
Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
Step 1
Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature.
Step 2
Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air.
Step 3
Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep.
Step 4
Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible.
Step 5
Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6
Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms.
Step 7
Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months.
Step 8
Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Did you know that you can grow orchids in your garden, in the ground? Most people think of orchids as showy, greenhouse beauties, but those plants represent only one type of orchids. Among the Orchid family, there are over 200 species that flourish in the soil. These plants are classified as terrestrial orchids and grow wild in subtropical and tropical areas of America.
Considered woodland plants, terrestrial orchids share some characteristics with their greenhouse counterparts. These plants come in many shapes and size, produce blossoms in a rainbow of colors, and are famous for filling the night air with wonderful aromas. Unlike their tropical cousins, however, these woodland flowers do not produce aerial roots or stems that climb trees and bushes. They prefer to keep their roots firmly planted in the earth.
Terrestrial orchids don’t need a lot of fertilizer, either. As a matter of fact, most of these ground-loving plants can’t handle a lot of fertilizer. Usually all that’s needed to feed these flowers is leafy compost at planting and later as the plants mature. If your soil is poor in nutrients and you must fertilize, use a very weak solution. Take the food you would normally give flowers and dilute it to one-quarter strength.
One difference between terrestrial orchids and other orchids that often surprises people is their ability to tolerate cold temperatures. Many of these species survive well in freezing temperatures, and some actually require sub-freezing conditions in order to bloom. Like tulips and other bulb plants, these orchids go dormant through the cold weather months and grow and bloom again when spring arrives.
Terrestrial orchids can be categorized into two general groups: individual growers and clumps/tuft growers.
Within the individual growers (also called solitary) there are two distinct growth habits. One group produces both their leaves and their flowers from one stem, which sprouts from an underground tuber or corm. This single stem is leafy and produces an inflorescence at its end. After the blossom is completely open and seeding is complete, these orchids drop their leaves, or become deciduous. The tubers or corms experience an annual dormant period, then continue their life cycle.
The other group of solitary growing terrestrial orchids produces a separate leaf stem and a separate flower stem. Each of these stems sprouts from a distinct bud on the rhizome. An example of this type of growth can be growth can be found in flowers among the Nervilia, Eulophia and Pachystoma genera.
Terrestrial orchids that grow erect are usually evergreen and keep their leaves for a year or more. Leafy pseudobulbs provide new growth, usually from the base, as seen in Phaius, Liparis and Acanthephippium genera.Plants among the genera of Macodes and Zeuxine provide beautiful examples of creeping Terrestrial orchids. The rhizomes of these plants are usually fleshy with long internodes. Axillary buds grow below the apex of the rhizomes and produce upright leaf and flower spikes. After flowering ends, and sometimes after the plant loses its leaves, new growth begins. The original upright spike falls and is absorbed by the rhizome.
Considered woodland plants, terrestrial orchids share some characteristics with their greenhouse counterparts. These plants come in many shapes and size, produce blossoms in a rainbow of colors, and are famous for filling the night air with wonderful aromas. Unlike their tropical cousins, however, these woodland flowers do not produce aerial roots or stems that climb trees and bushes. They prefer to keep their roots firmly planted in the earth.
Terrestrial orchids don’t need a lot of fertilizer, either. As a matter of fact, most of these ground-loving plants can’t handle a lot of fertilizer. Usually all that’s needed to feed these flowers is leafy compost at planting and later as the plants mature. If your soil is poor in nutrients and you must fertilize, use a very weak solution. Take the food you would normally give flowers and dilute it to one-quarter strength.
One difference between terrestrial orchids and other orchids that often surprises people is their ability to tolerate cold temperatures. Many of these species survive well in freezing temperatures, and some actually require sub-freezing conditions in order to bloom. Like tulips and other bulb plants, these orchids go dormant through the cold weather months and grow and bloom again when spring arrives.
Terrestrial orchids can be categorized into two general groups: individual growers and clumps/tuft growers.
Within the individual growers (also called solitary) there are two distinct growth habits. One group produces both their leaves and their flowers from one stem, which sprouts from an underground tuber or corm. This single stem is leafy and produces an inflorescence at its end. After the blossom is completely open and seeding is complete, these orchids drop their leaves, or become deciduous. The tubers or corms experience an annual dormant period, then continue their life cycle.
The other group of solitary growing terrestrial orchids produces a separate leaf stem and a separate flower stem. Each of these stems sprouts from a distinct bud on the rhizome. An example of this type of growth can be growth can be found in flowers among the Nervilia, Eulophia and Pachystoma genera.
Terrestrial orchids that grow erect are usually evergreen and keep their leaves for a year or more. Leafy pseudobulbs provide new growth, usually from the base, as seen in Phaius, Liparis and Acanthephippium genera.Plants among the genera of Macodes and Zeuxine provide beautiful examples of creeping Terrestrial orchids. The rhizomes of these plants are usually fleshy with long internodes. Axillary buds grow below the apex of the rhizomes and produce upright leaf and flower spikes. After flowering ends, and sometimes after the plant loses its leaves, new growth begins. The original upright spike falls and is absorbed by the rhizome.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow the most during the spring and summer. Once fall rolls around the plants like to take a break. During their fall/winter dormant period, watering should be reduced.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot.
Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot.
Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents are relatively pest-free plants, but, like any others, they occasionally fall prey to typical greenhouse pests like mealybug, scale, mites and white fly. Don’t worry. Plants and pests go hand-in-hand. You’ll constantly be bringing pests home with new plants and no matter what you do, you’ll NEVER be completely free of them. The goal is control. Thankfully there are some simple, relatively toxin-free ways to help deal with the little nasties.
Mealybug
Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home.
These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites
I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible.
Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants.
Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it!
Scale
After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell.
Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly
White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind).
Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
Mealybug
Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home.
These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites
I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible.
Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants.
Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it!
Scale
After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell.
Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly
White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind).
Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Mealybugs are a pest common to cacti and succulents. Greenhouse and windowsill assemblages are especially vulnerable to the critters. You can eliminate mealybugs temporarily, but they are difficult to eradicate completely, especially in large groupings of plants. Deal effectively with mealybugs and restore healthy environmental conditions in your cactus collection to prevent future infestations.
About Mealybugs
Mealybugs are gray or light brown insects 2 to 3 millimeters long. They resemble woodlice. Mealybugs can accumulate around the base of a cactus or just beneath the soil around its growing point. An early sign of a mealybug problem is a secretion that resembles white fluff on the plant. This is where the bugs reproduce. Fallen needles may also indicate a mealybug presence. Squashed bugs leave red or green stains. Ants farm mealybugs for their sweet secretions; an ant problem near a cactus may be an indication of mealybugs.
Natural Remedies
There are many effective nonchemical approaches to dealing with mealybugs. Experiment to find the best method for your cactus. Dab bugs and white fluff with denatured alcohol on a cotton swab to kill the insects. Repeat this treatment as often as is necessary to remove all bugs from the plant, checking it thoroughly once every three weeks. Fumigant smoke cones may be effective if used regularly, especially in large groupings of plants in a greenhouse. Alternatively, spray cactus with several drops of dish soap diluted in a cup of water. For a biological control, introduce a mealybug predator such as Cryptolaemus montrouzieri. Be aware that the effectiveness of biological controls for mealybugs in home settings can be low, as maintaining a balance of predators and pray can be difficult. Manage an ant problem to deter mealybug farming.
Chemical Remedies
Systemic insecticides poison bugs that ingest the cactus’ sap. Human skin, however, may also absorb these poisons. Imidacloprid is effective against mealybugs and is lower in toxicity to animals than some other chemical treatments. Water plants with imidacloprid once every several months during active growth. To deal with a root infestation, immerse the cactus’s pot in a bucket containing insecticide and a few drops of dish soap. Let the plant dry completely after this treatment. Be sure that no mealybugs survive a chemical treatment to help deter the bugs from becoming resistant to insecticide.
Preventative Care
Isolate a newly acquired cactus for two to three weeks to observe whether it contains mealybugs. Inspect all of your cactus plants regularly to intercept a mealybug infestation while it is small, before it spreads to nearby plants. Notice any dramatic changes in your cactus’s condition, such as discoloration or sudden limpness, as these may be signs of a mealybug problem that is not readily visible. Keep the area around your cactus clean and free of dried leaves and dropped flowers, as rotting organic matter provides an ideal home for a wide range of pests and diseases.
About Mealybugs
Mealybugs are gray or light brown insects 2 to 3 millimeters long. They resemble woodlice. Mealybugs can accumulate around the base of a cactus or just beneath the soil around its growing point. An early sign of a mealybug problem is a secretion that resembles white fluff on the plant. This is where the bugs reproduce. Fallen needles may also indicate a mealybug presence. Squashed bugs leave red or green stains. Ants farm mealybugs for their sweet secretions; an ant problem near a cactus may be an indication of mealybugs.
Natural Remedies
There are many effective nonchemical approaches to dealing with mealybugs. Experiment to find the best method for your cactus. Dab bugs and white fluff with denatured alcohol on a cotton swab to kill the insects. Repeat this treatment as often as is necessary to remove all bugs from the plant, checking it thoroughly once every three weeks. Fumigant smoke cones may be effective if used regularly, especially in large groupings of plants in a greenhouse. Alternatively, spray cactus with several drops of dish soap diluted in a cup of water. For a biological control, introduce a mealybug predator such as Cryptolaemus montrouzieri. Be aware that the effectiveness of biological controls for mealybugs in home settings can be low, as maintaining a balance of predators and pray can be difficult. Manage an ant problem to deter mealybug farming.
Chemical Remedies
Systemic insecticides poison bugs that ingest the cactus’ sap. Human skin, however, may also absorb these poisons. Imidacloprid is effective against mealybugs and is lower in toxicity to animals than some other chemical treatments. Water plants with imidacloprid once every several months during active growth. To deal with a root infestation, immerse the cactus’s pot in a bucket containing insecticide and a few drops of dish soap. Let the plant dry completely after this treatment. Be sure that no mealybugs survive a chemical treatment to help deter the bugs from becoming resistant to insecticide.
Preventative Care
Isolate a newly acquired cactus for two to three weeks to observe whether it contains mealybugs. Inspect all of your cactus plants regularly to intercept a mealybug infestation while it is small, before it spreads to nearby plants. Notice any dramatic changes in your cactus’s condition, such as discoloration or sudden limpness, as these may be signs of a mealybug problem that is not readily visible. Keep the area around your cactus clean and free of dried leaves and dropped flowers, as rotting organic matter provides an ideal home for a wide range of pests and diseases.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
There are over 1200 known species of whiteflies, most of which feed on only one or a few species of plants each. Some are pests on valuable crops such as the sweet potato whitefly (Bemisia tabaci). Others, like the greenhouse whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum), feed on a broad range of herbaceous plants both inside the greenhouse and outside in the garden. Some of the host plants that the greenhouse whitefly attacks are the tomato, fuchsia, lantana, and coleus.
The silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia argentifolii) has been found on as many as 500 hosts such as canna lilies, bearded iris, crepe myrtle, lantana, petunia, and rose.
Whiteflies are one of the most difficult insect pests to control. They are not true flies but are more closely related to aphids, mealybugs, and scale, which are also sap-sucking insects. In some parts of the country, some species of whitefly can transmit several plant viruses.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Identification of the whitefly is easy as a white cloud of insects rise from foliage when disturbed. The adults are about 1/16 to 1/10 inch in length, wedgeshaped, and appear powdery. Infested leaves may show little if any symptoms or may be mottled and yellow. Leaves will also become coated with a sticky substance called honeydew, which is secreted by feeding whitefly nymphs and adults. A black, sooty mold may sometimes grow on the honeydew. Sooty mold does not damage the leaf. The feeding, however, removes nutrients from the plant, which results in stunting, poor growth, defoliation, reduced yields, and sometimes death. On certain plants the silverleaf whitefly causes specific damage symptoms such as silvering of leaves on squash, irregular ripening in tomato, whitestalk in broccoli and cauliflower, light root in carrots, and white stem in poinsettia.
Life Cycle
The whitefly spends its winters in weeds and ornamental plants, migrating to crops and gardens in spring and summer. Once temperatures warm up in the summer, populations can build rapidly with the highest populations probably occurring in late summer. They lay their tiny eggs on the undersides of leaves. Adult females usually lay between 200 to 400 eggs. Sometimes the eggs are deposited in a circular pattern (not true in all species) in groups of 30 to 40 as the female will often keep her mouth part in the plant to feed while moving in a circle to deposit eggs. Within about a week the eggs hatch into flattened nymphs, called crawlers that wander about the plant. Soon, they insert their mouth part and begin to feed. The first stage has legs and antennae, but these are lost after the first molt and the flattened, oval-shaped larvae stay fixed at one feeding site. The last part of the fourth instar is the pupa. Adults emerge from the pupa through a Tshaped slit and soon mate and reproduce. The adults live about one month. Within a population, all life stages are present and generations often overlap.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Inspection. Inspect all new plants planted in the garden for whiteflies. Inspect regularly and remove by hand older leaves that are heavily infested with whiteflies in a non-mobile nymphal stage.
2. Biological control. Whiteflies have many natural enemies in the garden setting including spiders, lady beetles, and lacewings. However, these predators are not effective if there is a frequent use of insecticides.
3. Mechanical control. The use of traps can be very helpful in controlling light infestations. Make yellow sticky traps about 12 x 6 inches and coat them with a sticky substance such as Tanglefoot, petroleum jelly, or heavy grade motor oil. Hang the traps vertically near the affected plants. The adults are attracted to yellow. Traps are also commercially available. Use one trap per plant.
4. Chemical control. Whiteflies have developed resistance to some chemicals. Because of this resistance, a certain product may work well in one area but not in another. Resistance may be delayed by alternating the types of chemicals used. In addition, the egg and non-feeding pupa stages are generally not as susceptible to insecticides as are the adults and nymphs. Consequently, eradication of a whitefly population usually requires four to five applications of a registered insecticide at five to seven day intervals. Be sure the applications are made to the lower leaf surface, and apply as soon as whiteflies are detected. Do not wait until populations become severe.
Before using any insecticide for whitefly control, make sure that the site and target plant are both listed on the label. Follow label directions carefully.
5. Chemicals. Some of the over-the-counter chemicals which could be used are malathion, imidacloprid, permethrin, or pyrethrins. Insecticidal soap, petroleum oil, and insect growth regulators can also be effective.
The silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia argentifolii) has been found on as many as 500 hosts such as canna lilies, bearded iris, crepe myrtle, lantana, petunia, and rose.
Whiteflies are one of the most difficult insect pests to control. They are not true flies but are more closely related to aphids, mealybugs, and scale, which are also sap-sucking insects. In some parts of the country, some species of whitefly can transmit several plant viruses.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Identification of the whitefly is easy as a white cloud of insects rise from foliage when disturbed. The adults are about 1/16 to 1/10 inch in length, wedgeshaped, and appear powdery. Infested leaves may show little if any symptoms or may be mottled and yellow. Leaves will also become coated with a sticky substance called honeydew, which is secreted by feeding whitefly nymphs and adults. A black, sooty mold may sometimes grow on the honeydew. Sooty mold does not damage the leaf. The feeding, however, removes nutrients from the plant, which results in stunting, poor growth, defoliation, reduced yields, and sometimes death. On certain plants the silverleaf whitefly causes specific damage symptoms such as silvering of leaves on squash, irregular ripening in tomato, whitestalk in broccoli and cauliflower, light root in carrots, and white stem in poinsettia.
Life Cycle
The whitefly spends its winters in weeds and ornamental plants, migrating to crops and gardens in spring and summer. Once temperatures warm up in the summer, populations can build rapidly with the highest populations probably occurring in late summer. They lay their tiny eggs on the undersides of leaves. Adult females usually lay between 200 to 400 eggs. Sometimes the eggs are deposited in a circular pattern (not true in all species) in groups of 30 to 40 as the female will often keep her mouth part in the plant to feed while moving in a circle to deposit eggs. Within about a week the eggs hatch into flattened nymphs, called crawlers that wander about the plant. Soon, they insert their mouth part and begin to feed. The first stage has legs and antennae, but these are lost after the first molt and the flattened, oval-shaped larvae stay fixed at one feeding site. The last part of the fourth instar is the pupa. Adults emerge from the pupa through a Tshaped slit and soon mate and reproduce. The adults live about one month. Within a population, all life stages are present and generations often overlap.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Inspection. Inspect all new plants planted in the garden for whiteflies. Inspect regularly and remove by hand older leaves that are heavily infested with whiteflies in a non-mobile nymphal stage.
2. Biological control. Whiteflies have many natural enemies in the garden setting including spiders, lady beetles, and lacewings. However, these predators are not effective if there is a frequent use of insecticides.
3. Mechanical control. The use of traps can be very helpful in controlling light infestations. Make yellow sticky traps about 12 x 6 inches and coat them with a sticky substance such as Tanglefoot, petroleum jelly, or heavy grade motor oil. Hang the traps vertically near the affected plants. The adults are attracted to yellow. Traps are also commercially available. Use one trap per plant.
4. Chemical control. Whiteflies have developed resistance to some chemicals. Because of this resistance, a certain product may work well in one area but not in another. Resistance may be delayed by alternating the types of chemicals used. In addition, the egg and non-feeding pupa stages are generally not as susceptible to insecticides as are the adults and nymphs. Consequently, eradication of a whitefly population usually requires four to five applications of a registered insecticide at five to seven day intervals. Be sure the applications are made to the lower leaf surface, and apply as soon as whiteflies are detected. Do not wait until populations become severe.
Before using any insecticide for whitefly control, make sure that the site and target plant are both listed on the label. Follow label directions carefully.
5. Chemicals. Some of the over-the-counter chemicals which could be used are malathion, imidacloprid, permethrin, or pyrethrins. Insecticidal soap, petroleum oil, and insect growth regulators can also be effective.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Slugs and snails feed at night and are easy to spot. They leave behind unmistakeable silvery slime trails and decimated young plants, leaves and flower buds. During the day they tend to gravitate to dark, moist areas of the garden and greenhouse, or hide on the undersides of large leaves and under pots.
Plants affected
They feed on a wide range of plants and cause severe damage as they rasp or chew away on leaves, stems, roots, bulbs, tubers, buds, flowers and fruit with their toothed tongue.
About Slugs/Snails
Slugs and snails are collectively known as garden molluscs.
Slugs and snails have many similarities since slugs have actually evolved from snails. Their external shell has been replaced by an internal plate that protects their lungs.
Both are soft-bodied and move using a large muscular foot that slides over a slimy secretion.
They have two pairs of tentacles, the lower for smelling and the upper for seeing.
Noted for elaborate courtship and mating rituals, they can lay up to 500 eggs during adulthood. Snails can often be seen joined together whilst mating.
The field slug, Deroceras reticulatum, this is generally the most damaging slug. It's 3cm to 4cm in length and can be various colours from grey to fawn. It feeds mainly above ground.
The garden slug, Arion hortensis, a dark grey to black slug, up to 4cm long. It feeds above and below ground.
Keeled slugs, Milax spp, there are many different species, all are dark grey, brown or black and up to 10cm long and with a distinct ridge or keel running down the back. They live in soil but also feed above ground.
Common snail, Helix aspersa, these have a grey-brown shell with darker bands. They are often found near walls, in rockeries and in overgrown herbaceous borders. Snails can live for several years, hibernating in clusters, in dry holes in walls and so on.
Round-backed black or brown slugs, Arion ater, these feed on rotting vegetation and therefore don't require controlling.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Slugs/Snails
Metaldehyde
Methiocarb
Copper sulphate
Ferrous phosphate
Aluminium sulphate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Attract slugs and snails by leaving out decaying organic matter, such as lettuce leaves or grapefruit skins. Inspect these after dark then collect and kill molluscs by dropping them into a bucket of salty water.
Use copper rings around the base of susceptible plants - these repel molluscs by generating a small electric current.
Sink shallow dishes (or purpose-built slug and snail traps) filled with beer to soil level. Slugs and snails are attracted to the beer, become intoxicated and drown.
Sprinkle ashes, soot, sharp sand, crushed nut or eggshells around plants to provide a physical barrier that slugs and snails don't like to cross.
You can buy live nematodes, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, commercially. Drench infested areas with this tiny worm which burrows into the body of the slug and infects it with bacteria which kill it. These nematodes aren't effective against snails.
Grow plants with rough or hairy leaves which are less palatable or use some young plants as sacrificial specimens in order to discourage the slugs and snails from your favourites.
Products containing Ferrous phosphate are acceptable for Organic gardeners as they do not harm other wildlife or contaminate the soil.
Prevention
Cultivate growing areas frequently to expose eggs, young and adults to predators such as birds, frogs and hedgehogs.
Limit the use of organic composts and mulches around plants, because they're particularly attractive to slugs.
Remove objects from growing areas that molluscs can use as daytime refuges, such as logs and large stones.
Encourage natural enemies such as beetles and centipedes by providing overwintering refuges in the autumn.
Check your flower beds, pots and lawns at night using a torch and collect the slugs and snails that will be searching around for food.
Plants affected
They feed on a wide range of plants and cause severe damage as they rasp or chew away on leaves, stems, roots, bulbs, tubers, buds, flowers and fruit with their toothed tongue.
About Slugs/Snails
Slugs and snails are collectively known as garden molluscs.
Slugs and snails have many similarities since slugs have actually evolved from snails. Their external shell has been replaced by an internal plate that protects their lungs.
Both are soft-bodied and move using a large muscular foot that slides over a slimy secretion.
They have two pairs of tentacles, the lower for smelling and the upper for seeing.
Noted for elaborate courtship and mating rituals, they can lay up to 500 eggs during adulthood. Snails can often be seen joined together whilst mating.
The field slug, Deroceras reticulatum, this is generally the most damaging slug. It's 3cm to 4cm in length and can be various colours from grey to fawn. It feeds mainly above ground.
The garden slug, Arion hortensis, a dark grey to black slug, up to 4cm long. It feeds above and below ground.
Keeled slugs, Milax spp, there are many different species, all are dark grey, brown or black and up to 10cm long and with a distinct ridge or keel running down the back. They live in soil but also feed above ground.
Common snail, Helix aspersa, these have a grey-brown shell with darker bands. They are often found near walls, in rockeries and in overgrown herbaceous borders. Snails can live for several years, hibernating in clusters, in dry holes in walls and so on.
Round-backed black or brown slugs, Arion ater, these feed on rotting vegetation and therefore don't require controlling.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Slugs/Snails
Metaldehyde
Methiocarb
Copper sulphate
Ferrous phosphate
Aluminium sulphate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Attract slugs and snails by leaving out decaying organic matter, such as lettuce leaves or grapefruit skins. Inspect these after dark then collect and kill molluscs by dropping them into a bucket of salty water.
Use copper rings around the base of susceptible plants - these repel molluscs by generating a small electric current.
Sink shallow dishes (or purpose-built slug and snail traps) filled with beer to soil level. Slugs and snails are attracted to the beer, become intoxicated and drown.
Sprinkle ashes, soot, sharp sand, crushed nut or eggshells around plants to provide a physical barrier that slugs and snails don't like to cross.
You can buy live nematodes, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, commercially. Drench infested areas with this tiny worm which burrows into the body of the slug and infects it with bacteria which kill it. These nematodes aren't effective against snails.
Grow plants with rough or hairy leaves which are less palatable or use some young plants as sacrificial specimens in order to discourage the slugs and snails from your favourites.
Products containing Ferrous phosphate are acceptable for Organic gardeners as they do not harm other wildlife or contaminate the soil.
Prevention
Cultivate growing areas frequently to expose eggs, young and adults to predators such as birds, frogs and hedgehogs.
Limit the use of organic composts and mulches around plants, because they're particularly attractive to slugs.
Remove objects from growing areas that molluscs can use as daytime refuges, such as logs and large stones.
Encourage natural enemies such as beetles and centipedes by providing overwintering refuges in the autumn.
Check your flower beds, pots and lawns at night using a torch and collect the slugs and snails that will be searching around for food.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on backyard trees, ornamental shrubs, greenhouse plants and houseplants, over 1,000 species of scale insects exist in North America. They are such oddly shaped and immobile pests that they often resemble shell-like bumps rather than insects. In many cases, heavy infestations build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage. Large populations may result in poor growth, reduced vigor and chlorotic (yellowed) leaves. If left unchecked, an infested host may become so weak that it dies.
Scale insects can be divided into two groups:
Armored (Hard) – Secrete a hard protective covering (1/8 inch long) over themselves, which is not attached to the body. The hard scale lives and feeds under this spherical armor and does not move about the plant. They do not secrete honeydew.
Soft – Secrete a waxy film (up to 1/2 inch long) that is part of the body. In most cases, they are able to move short distances (but rarely do) and produce copious amounts of honeydew. Soft scale vary in shape from flat to almost spherical.
Life Cycle
Adult females lay eggs underneath their protective covering which hatch over a period of one to three weeks. The newly hatched nymphs (called crawlers) migrate out from this covering and move about the plant until a suitable feeding site is found. Young nymphs insert their piercing mouthparts into the plant and begin to feed, gradually developing their own armor as they transform into immobile adults. They do not pupate and may have several overlapping generations per year, especially in greenhouses.
Note: Males of many species develop wings as adults and appear as tiny gnat-like insects. They are rarely seen and do not feed on plants. Females often reproduce without mating.
Control
To get rid of scale insects prune and dispose of infested branches, twigs and leaves.
When scale numbers are low they may be rubbed or picked off of plants by hand.
Dabbing individual pests with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab or neem-based leaf shine will also work when infestations are light.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, are natural predators of the young larval or “crawler” stage.
Organic pesticides, like insecticidal soap and d-Limonene can also be used to kill the larvae. However, these products have very little persistence in the environment, so several applications during egg-hatching will be required for effective control.
Azamax contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for pest resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
Horticultural oils and other safe, oil-based insecticides work by smothering insects and will control all pest stages, including adults which are protected from most other insecticides by their armor coverings.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Scale insects can be divided into two groups:
Armored (Hard) – Secrete a hard protective covering (1/8 inch long) over themselves, which is not attached to the body. The hard scale lives and feeds under this spherical armor and does not move about the plant. They do not secrete honeydew.
Soft – Secrete a waxy film (up to 1/2 inch long) that is part of the body. In most cases, they are able to move short distances (but rarely do) and produce copious amounts of honeydew. Soft scale vary in shape from flat to almost spherical.
Life Cycle
Adult females lay eggs underneath their protective covering which hatch over a period of one to three weeks. The newly hatched nymphs (called crawlers) migrate out from this covering and move about the plant until a suitable feeding site is found. Young nymphs insert their piercing mouthparts into the plant and begin to feed, gradually developing their own armor as they transform into immobile adults. They do not pupate and may have several overlapping generations per year, especially in greenhouses.
Note: Males of many species develop wings as adults and appear as tiny gnat-like insects. They are rarely seen and do not feed on plants. Females often reproduce without mating.
Control
To get rid of scale insects prune and dispose of infested branches, twigs and leaves.
When scale numbers are low they may be rubbed or picked off of plants by hand.
Dabbing individual pests with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab or neem-based leaf shine will also work when infestations are light.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, are natural predators of the young larval or “crawler” stage.
Organic pesticides, like insecticidal soap and d-Limonene can also be used to kill the larvae. However, these products have very little persistence in the environment, so several applications during egg-hatching will be required for effective control.
Azamax contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for pest resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
Horticultural oils and other safe, oil-based insecticides work by smothering insects and will control all pest stages, including adults which are protected from most other insecticides by their armor coverings.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Citrus mealybugs, first identified in the U.S. in 1879 can infest and destroy greenhouse and outdoor crops of plant hosts such as Tulips, Cannas, Begonias, Narcissus and Coleus.
Identification
Host plants may be dropping leaves, have distorted growth or areas of mold and waxy cottony secretions. Although they are tiny, less than 5 mm long (25.4 mm per inch), wingless female mealybugs with peripheral body filaments or winged males with tail filaments may be lurking and munching in plant crevices, looking as if they had been rolled in flour and ready to be tossed into a micro-sized frying pan.
Damage
The mealybugs suck out the host plants sap, injecting toxic saliva and secreting honeydew that grows mold and a cottony wax that can disfigure flowers and make them unsuitable for the market, dining room table or kitchen windowsill. Ants who feast on the tasty honeydew ferry the wingless females to neighboring plants.
Control
A first and final defense is to destroy the infested plants as mealybug infestations can be fatal to the host plant if left untreated. A second and less radical approach is to employ beneficial insects, such as Mealybug Destroyer beetles which feed voraciously on the pests and can be purchased from commercial suppliers.
Note: Like the pest insect, these beetles do not survive cold weather so they must either be released into greenhouses, outdoors in temperate climates or outdoors during warm seasons in colder climes. In addition, birds will prey on the beetles outdoors.
Also, spreading bone meal at the base of any plants or wrapping the trunk in cloth may discourage ants from visiting and spreading the tenacious pests.
Neighborhood Watch
Other botanical derivatives such as Rotenone and Pyrethrum have been effective in some applications and controls that work in one location may not work in another, so ask other local organic gardeners or the county extension service for suggestions.
Identification
Host plants may be dropping leaves, have distorted growth or areas of mold and waxy cottony secretions. Although they are tiny, less than 5 mm long (25.4 mm per inch), wingless female mealybugs with peripheral body filaments or winged males with tail filaments may be lurking and munching in plant crevices, looking as if they had been rolled in flour and ready to be tossed into a micro-sized frying pan.
Damage
The mealybugs suck out the host plants sap, injecting toxic saliva and secreting honeydew that grows mold and a cottony wax that can disfigure flowers and make them unsuitable for the market, dining room table or kitchen windowsill. Ants who feast on the tasty honeydew ferry the wingless females to neighboring plants.
Control
A first and final defense is to destroy the infested plants as mealybug infestations can be fatal to the host plant if left untreated. A second and less radical approach is to employ beneficial insects, such as Mealybug Destroyer beetles which feed voraciously on the pests and can be purchased from commercial suppliers.
Note: Like the pest insect, these beetles do not survive cold weather so they must either be released into greenhouses, outdoors in temperate climates or outdoors during warm seasons in colder climes. In addition, birds will prey on the beetles outdoors.
Also, spreading bone meal at the base of any plants or wrapping the trunk in cloth may discourage ants from visiting and spreading the tenacious pests.
Neighborhood Watch
Other botanical derivatives such as Rotenone and Pyrethrum have been effective in some applications and controls that work in one location may not work in another, so ask other local organic gardeners or the county extension service for suggestions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids have a reputation for being difficult and laborious to care for, but do not let that discourage you from keeping the plants in your home or greenhouse. Most of the orchids on the mainstream market today are hybrid varieties, bred specifically for beauty combined with ease of care.
Location
If you do not have a greenhouse or a conservatory, place orchids on a windowsill. If you see that the leaves are reddening at the edges or have become pale and yellow, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a shadier spot. You will know when the level of light is good because the orchid's leaves will stay glossy and green. During the summer months, keep orchids outside in indirect sun. Remember to water them regularly, and occasionally feed them with an orchid fertilizer.
Moisture
Orchids thrive in a humid atmosphere and they must have excellent ventilation around their roots. Never re-pot your orchid in regular soil---you need a special orchid mix and special pots with air vents. If you live in a dry climate, it will help to sit your orchids on a tray of pebbles. Keep a shallow layer of water around the pebbles, but make sure the orchid's roots are never submerged. The water moistens the air around the orchid. To replicate humid conditions, spritz the orchid with water regularly.
Temperature
Orchids generally can not tolerate temperatures lower than 50 degrees. If your orchids are kept outside during warmer months, wait until nighttime temperatures have dropped into the 50s, as the colder air promotes the growth of new stems and blooms. Because orchids thrive in temperatures up to around 85 degrees, in most climates it is unlikely to become too hot for them indoors. When temperatures are high, increase the amount and frequency of watering. In hot climates, look for heat-tolerant orchids like Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium.
Location
If you do not have a greenhouse or a conservatory, place orchids on a windowsill. If you see that the leaves are reddening at the edges or have become pale and yellow, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a shadier spot. You will know when the level of light is good because the orchid's leaves will stay glossy and green. During the summer months, keep orchids outside in indirect sun. Remember to water them regularly, and occasionally feed them with an orchid fertilizer.
Moisture
Orchids thrive in a humid atmosphere and they must have excellent ventilation around their roots. Never re-pot your orchid in regular soil---you need a special orchid mix and special pots with air vents. If you live in a dry climate, it will help to sit your orchids on a tray of pebbles. Keep a shallow layer of water around the pebbles, but make sure the orchid's roots are never submerged. The water moistens the air around the orchid. To replicate humid conditions, spritz the orchid with water regularly.
Temperature
Orchids generally can not tolerate temperatures lower than 50 degrees. If your orchids are kept outside during warmer months, wait until nighttime temperatures have dropped into the 50s, as the colder air promotes the growth of new stems and blooms. Because orchids thrive in temperatures up to around 85 degrees, in most climates it is unlikely to become too hot for them indoors. When temperatures are high, increase the amount and frequency of watering. In hot climates, look for heat-tolerant orchids like Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium.
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