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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The lotus (Nelumbo) is an aquatic plant with interesting leaves and stunning flowers. It’s most commonly grown in water gardens. It is very invasive, so care has to be taken when growing it, or it will quickly take over its environment. Keep reading to learn more lotus plant information, including lotus plant care and how to grow a lotus plant.
How to Grow a Lotus Plant
Growing lotus plants requires a certain amount of diligence. The plants will spread quickly and easily if grown in the soil, so it’s best to plant them in containers. Make sure your container has no drainage holes – lotus roots can easily escape through them, and since your container will be underwater, drainage is a non-issue.
If you’re growing lotus plants from rhizomes, fill a container with garden soil and lightly cover the rhizomes, leaving the pointed tips slightly exposed. Submerge the container in water so that the surface is about 2 inches above the soil line. You may have to put a layer of gravel on top of the soil to keep it from floating away. After a few days, the first leaf should emerge. Keep raising the level of the water to match the length of the stems. Once the weather outside is at least 60 F. (16 C.) and the stems extend several inches, you can move your container outdoors.
Sink the container in your outdoor water garden no more than 18 inches from the surface. You may have to raise it up on bricks or cinder blocks.
Lotus Plant Care
Caring for lotus plants is relatively easy. Place them in a spot that receives full sun and fertilize them moderately.
Lotus tubers can’t survive freezing. If your pond does not freeze solid, your lotus should be able to overwinter if placed deeper than the freeze line. If you’re worried about freezing, you can dig up your lotus tubers and overwinter them indoors in a cool place.
How to Grow a Lotus Plant
Growing lotus plants requires a certain amount of diligence. The plants will spread quickly and easily if grown in the soil, so it’s best to plant them in containers. Make sure your container has no drainage holes – lotus roots can easily escape through them, and since your container will be underwater, drainage is a non-issue.
If you’re growing lotus plants from rhizomes, fill a container with garden soil and lightly cover the rhizomes, leaving the pointed tips slightly exposed. Submerge the container in water so that the surface is about 2 inches above the soil line. You may have to put a layer of gravel on top of the soil to keep it from floating away. After a few days, the first leaf should emerge. Keep raising the level of the water to match the length of the stems. Once the weather outside is at least 60 F. (16 C.) and the stems extend several inches, you can move your container outdoors.
Sink the container in your outdoor water garden no more than 18 inches from the surface. You may have to raise it up on bricks or cinder blocks.
Lotus Plant Care
Caring for lotus plants is relatively easy. Place them in a spot that receives full sun and fertilize them moderately.
Lotus tubers can’t survive freezing. If your pond does not freeze solid, your lotus should be able to overwinter if placed deeper than the freeze line. If you’re worried about freezing, you can dig up your lotus tubers and overwinter them indoors in a cool place.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Beautiful but destructive in the wrong environment, water hyacinths (Eichhornia crassipes) are among the showiest of water garden plants. Flower stalks that grow about six inches above the foliage arise from the centers of the rosettes in spring, and by the end of spring, each plant holds as many as 20 gorgeous purple flowers. The flowers last until fall and make striking cut flowers.
How to Grow Water Hyacinth
Growing water hyacinth plants is easy. Once established, they require no special care except occasional thinning to keep them from choking out everything else in the pond. Under perfect conditions, a colony of water hyacinths can double its size every 8 to 12 days.
Water hyacinths need full sun and hot summer temperatures. Introduce them to the garden by scattering bunches of plants over the surface of the water. They quickly take hold and begin to grow. Thin the plants when they cover more than 60 percent of the water surface. Water hyacinth plants survive winters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. They are best grown as annuals in places where cold winters keep them in check by killing them back. In warmer areas, these plants do become invasive. You can overwinter them indoors in a sunny spot, but they are inexpensive to replace each year. Most gardeners don’t find them worth the trouble to keep over winter.
Container Grown Water Hyacinths
A half barrel is an ideal container for a water hyacinth. The plants need full sun in garden ponds, but in containers they do best if they have shade from mid to late afternoon. Cover the inside of the barrel with a heavy duty garbage bag and then place a layer of soil in the bottom of the container. Don’t use commercial potting soil, which contains fertilizers and other chemicals that may harm the plant and encourage the growth of algae. Commercial soils also contain perlite and vermiculite, which floats to the top of the container. Cover the soil with a thin layer of sand. City water is usually treated with chlorine or chloramine, which is harmful to plants. Garden centers sell products that remove the chlorine and chloramine from the water and make it safe for plants. There is no need to treat the small amounts of water that you use to top off the container through the season.
You can allow the plant to float on the surface of the water, or anchor it in place by attaching one end of a length of nylon string to the plant and the other end to a brick.
How to Grow Water Hyacinth
Growing water hyacinth plants is easy. Once established, they require no special care except occasional thinning to keep them from choking out everything else in the pond. Under perfect conditions, a colony of water hyacinths can double its size every 8 to 12 days.
Water hyacinths need full sun and hot summer temperatures. Introduce them to the garden by scattering bunches of plants over the surface of the water. They quickly take hold and begin to grow. Thin the plants when they cover more than 60 percent of the water surface. Water hyacinth plants survive winters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. They are best grown as annuals in places where cold winters keep them in check by killing them back. In warmer areas, these plants do become invasive. You can overwinter them indoors in a sunny spot, but they are inexpensive to replace each year. Most gardeners don’t find them worth the trouble to keep over winter.
Container Grown Water Hyacinths
A half barrel is an ideal container for a water hyacinth. The plants need full sun in garden ponds, but in containers they do best if they have shade from mid to late afternoon. Cover the inside of the barrel with a heavy duty garbage bag and then place a layer of soil in the bottom of the container. Don’t use commercial potting soil, which contains fertilizers and other chemicals that may harm the plant and encourage the growth of algae. Commercial soils also contain perlite and vermiculite, which floats to the top of the container. Cover the soil with a thin layer of sand. City water is usually treated with chlorine or chloramine, which is harmful to plants. Garden centers sell products that remove the chlorine and chloramine from the water and make it safe for plants. There is no need to treat the small amounts of water that you use to top off the container through the season.
You can allow the plant to float on the surface of the water, or anchor it in place by attaching one end of a length of nylon string to the plant and the other end to a brick.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Lots of people grow mint out in the garden and for those who know just how vigorous this herb plant is, then it’s no surprise to learn that it thrives easily in a potted environment just as well. In fact, not only can it grow happily in the garden and in pots, but growing mint indoors can also be achieved.
How to Grow Mint Indoors
Growing and planting mint indoors is easy. You can find mint growing indoors in a pot of soil or even in a bottle of water. For starters, you need a container with adequate drainage for healthy plant growth. Pot up your mint plant with a good potting mix, either a regular commercial type or one with equal amounts of sand, peat, and perlite mixed in.
Water the mint plant well after planting and place it in an area with indirect light, preferably an east-facing window during spring and summer or a west- or south-facing one in fall and winter. You’ll also want to locate your mint plant in an area with an indoor temperature of around 65-70 F. (18-21 C.) during the day and 55-60 F. (13-15 C.) at night.
If you wish to grow mint plants in water, simply take tip cuttings of about 5 to 6 inches in length from an established mint plant. Remove the bottom leaves and place the cuttings in a water-filled glass or bottle. Set this in a sunny window with at least four to six hours of light each day.
Care for Mint Growing Indoors
When growing mint inside, there are a few things necessary for its continual care. One is watering. These plants prefer to be kept moist but not overly wet. If the upper part of soil becomes dry to the touch, then watering is needed. Otherwise, try to keep it evenly moist. Humidity is another important factor, so mist the plant between watering or set the container on a water-filled tray of pebbles.
In addition, you should rotate the plant every three to four days or so to maintain a more even appearance, as plants tend to bend towards the light, becoming somewhat lopsided. If desired, you can move your mint outdoors for summer, too. While fertilizing isn’t a must with this plant, you can give it an occasional dose of all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion. Mix the fertilizer at half strength. Don’t over fertilize, as this can cause the herb to lose its flavor.
How to Grow Mint Indoors
Growing and planting mint indoors is easy. You can find mint growing indoors in a pot of soil or even in a bottle of water. For starters, you need a container with adequate drainage for healthy plant growth. Pot up your mint plant with a good potting mix, either a regular commercial type or one with equal amounts of sand, peat, and perlite mixed in.
Water the mint plant well after planting and place it in an area with indirect light, preferably an east-facing window during spring and summer or a west- or south-facing one in fall and winter. You’ll also want to locate your mint plant in an area with an indoor temperature of around 65-70 F. (18-21 C.) during the day and 55-60 F. (13-15 C.) at night.
If you wish to grow mint plants in water, simply take tip cuttings of about 5 to 6 inches in length from an established mint plant. Remove the bottom leaves and place the cuttings in a water-filled glass or bottle. Set this in a sunny window with at least four to six hours of light each day.
Care for Mint Growing Indoors
When growing mint inside, there are a few things necessary for its continual care. One is watering. These plants prefer to be kept moist but not overly wet. If the upper part of soil becomes dry to the touch, then watering is needed. Otherwise, try to keep it evenly moist. Humidity is another important factor, so mist the plant between watering or set the container on a water-filled tray of pebbles.
In addition, you should rotate the plant every three to four days or so to maintain a more even appearance, as plants tend to bend towards the light, becoming somewhat lopsided. If desired, you can move your mint outdoors for summer, too. While fertilizing isn’t a must with this plant, you can give it an occasional dose of all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion. Mix the fertilizer at half strength. Don’t over fertilize, as this can cause the herb to lose its flavor.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
American ginseng (Panax quinquefolius), native to much of the Eastern United States, is valued for its many useful properties. Unfortunately, wild ginseng has been over harvested in its natural environment and is on the threatened plant list in several states. If you have an ideal growing environment and plenty of patience, you may be able to grow your own ginseng. Plants require at least three to five years before reaching maturity.
What is Ginseng?
Ginseng is an attractive perennial herb that attains a height of only 1 to 2 inches the first year. The leaf drops in autumn and a new leaf and stem appear in spring. This growth pattern continues until the plant reaches a mature height of 12 to 24 inches. Mature plants have at least three leaves, each with five oval, serrated leaflets. Clusters of greenish-yellow blooms appear in midsummer, followed by bright red, winkled berries.
Ginseng Plant Uses
The fleshy roots are used in herbal medicines and natural remedies. Various studies indicate that ginseng may boost the immune system, lower blood sugar and cholesterol and provide temporary memory improvements. While the effects haven’t been widely studied, some people believe ginseng may treat a number of conditions, including fatigue, heart disease, menopausal symptoms and high blood pressure. Ginseng is also used in soaps and lotions. In Asia, ginseng is incorporated into toothpaste, gum, candy and soft drinks.
Ginseng Growing Information
How to grow ginseng is fairly easy but locating plants may be difficult. Ginseng is usually planted by seed, which must be stratified for two years. However, you may be able to find small rootlets in greenhouses or nurseries. You can plant rhizomes from wild plants if you can find them, but check first; harvesting wild ginseng is illegal in some states. Ginseng requires nearly total shade and no direct afternoon sunlight. A location near mature deciduous trees is ideal. The goal is to mimic the plant’s natural woodland environment as much as possible. The plant thrives in deep, loose soil with a high organic content and a pH of about 5.5.
Ginseng Harvesting
Dig ginseng carefully to protect the roots. Wash off excess dirt and spread the roots in a single layer on a screen. Place the roots in a warm, well ventilated room and turn them every day. Small roots may dry in a day, but large roots can take as long as six weeks. Dried ginseng is most often used for teas.
What is Ginseng?
Ginseng is an attractive perennial herb that attains a height of only 1 to 2 inches the first year. The leaf drops in autumn and a new leaf and stem appear in spring. This growth pattern continues until the plant reaches a mature height of 12 to 24 inches. Mature plants have at least three leaves, each with five oval, serrated leaflets. Clusters of greenish-yellow blooms appear in midsummer, followed by bright red, winkled berries.
Ginseng Plant Uses
The fleshy roots are used in herbal medicines and natural remedies. Various studies indicate that ginseng may boost the immune system, lower blood sugar and cholesterol and provide temporary memory improvements. While the effects haven’t been widely studied, some people believe ginseng may treat a number of conditions, including fatigue, heart disease, menopausal symptoms and high blood pressure. Ginseng is also used in soaps and lotions. In Asia, ginseng is incorporated into toothpaste, gum, candy and soft drinks.
Ginseng Growing Information
How to grow ginseng is fairly easy but locating plants may be difficult. Ginseng is usually planted by seed, which must be stratified for two years. However, you may be able to find small rootlets in greenhouses or nurseries. You can plant rhizomes from wild plants if you can find them, but check first; harvesting wild ginseng is illegal in some states. Ginseng requires nearly total shade and no direct afternoon sunlight. A location near mature deciduous trees is ideal. The goal is to mimic the plant’s natural woodland environment as much as possible. The plant thrives in deep, loose soil with a high organic content and a pH of about 5.5.
Ginseng Harvesting
Dig ginseng carefully to protect the roots. Wash off excess dirt and spread the roots in a single layer on a screen. Place the roots in a warm, well ventilated room and turn them every day. Small roots may dry in a day, but large roots can take as long as six weeks. Dried ginseng is most often used for teas.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Cilantro bolting is one of the most frustrating things about this popular herb. Many gardeners ask, “Why does cilantro bolt?” and “How can I keep cilantro from flowering?” With attention to the environment you grow cilantro in, you can help lengthen the amount of time before cilantro will bolt and, therefore, increase the amount of time you can harvest leaves from your cilantro plants.
What to Do When Cilantro Bolts
Many gardeners wonder what to do when cilantro bolts. When they see the white cilantro flowers, they wonder if they can simply cut them off. Unfortunately, once cilantro bolts, the leaves rapidly lose their flavor. Cutting the cilantro flowers off won’t bring the flavor back to the leaves. Instead, go ahead and let the cilantro flowers go to seed. The seeds of the cilantro plant are the spice coriander and can be used in Asian, Indian, Mexican and many other ethnic recipes.
Why Does Cilantro Bolt?
Cilantro grows best in cool, moist conditions and will bolt rapidly in hot weather. This a survival mechanism for the cilantro plant. The plant knows that it will die in hot weather and will try to produce seeds as quickly as possible to ensure that the next generation of cilantro will survive and grow.
How to Keep Cilantro from Bolting
The first thing to understand is that there is no true way to keep cilantro from bolting. Plants are designed to do one thing and that is to reproduce. You are fighting nature. But there are several things you can do to significantly lengthen the time before the cilantro plant produces flowers.
First, if you live in a climate that doesn’t have moist, cool weather, you can buy slow-bolt cilantro. This is cilantro that has been bred to withstand higher temperatures. Second, no matter what kind of cilantro you grow, you should practice succession planting. This is where you plant new seeds every one to two weeks so that as one set of cilantro plantings start to bolt, the next set will be ready to harvest. Third, plant cilantro to grow during cool weather. Early spring, late summer and early fall are the best times to plant cilantro. If you plant in late spring to mid summer, your cilantro will bolt quickly in the heat. Fourth, harvest your cilantro leaves frequently. The more you harvest your cilantro, the more likely you are to nip immature flowering stalks which will delay cilantro flowering. Fifth, mulch cilantro and plant it tightly. It isn’t the heat of the air that causes cilantro to bolt, but rather the heat of the soil. Mulch will help keep the soil cool and retain moisture. Planting cilantro tightly will shade the ground it grows in, which also helps to keep the soil cooler.
What to Do When Cilantro Bolts
Many gardeners wonder what to do when cilantro bolts. When they see the white cilantro flowers, they wonder if they can simply cut them off. Unfortunately, once cilantro bolts, the leaves rapidly lose their flavor. Cutting the cilantro flowers off won’t bring the flavor back to the leaves. Instead, go ahead and let the cilantro flowers go to seed. The seeds of the cilantro plant are the spice coriander and can be used in Asian, Indian, Mexican and many other ethnic recipes.
Why Does Cilantro Bolt?
Cilantro grows best in cool, moist conditions and will bolt rapidly in hot weather. This a survival mechanism for the cilantro plant. The plant knows that it will die in hot weather and will try to produce seeds as quickly as possible to ensure that the next generation of cilantro will survive and grow.
How to Keep Cilantro from Bolting
The first thing to understand is that there is no true way to keep cilantro from bolting. Plants are designed to do one thing and that is to reproduce. You are fighting nature. But there are several things you can do to significantly lengthen the time before the cilantro plant produces flowers.
First, if you live in a climate that doesn’t have moist, cool weather, you can buy slow-bolt cilantro. This is cilantro that has been bred to withstand higher temperatures. Second, no matter what kind of cilantro you grow, you should practice succession planting. This is where you plant new seeds every one to two weeks so that as one set of cilantro plantings start to bolt, the next set will be ready to harvest. Third, plant cilantro to grow during cool weather. Early spring, late summer and early fall are the best times to plant cilantro. If you plant in late spring to mid summer, your cilantro will bolt quickly in the heat. Fourth, harvest your cilantro leaves frequently. The more you harvest your cilantro, the more likely you are to nip immature flowering stalks which will delay cilantro flowering. Fifth, mulch cilantro and plant it tightly. It isn’t the heat of the air that causes cilantro to bolt, but rather the heat of the soil. Mulch will help keep the soil cool and retain moisture. Planting cilantro tightly will shade the ground it grows in, which also helps to keep the soil cooler.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are fascinating carnivorous plants that are surprisingly adaptable to the indoor environment. However, it’s important to keep in mind that there are many types of pitcher plants with many different needs, and some varieties can be a little on the fussy side. Read on to learn the basics of growing pitcher plant as a houseplant and pitcher plant care indoors.
How to Care for Pitcher Plant Indoors
Light – If possible, refer to the tag that came with your pitcher plant, as sunlight requirements vary depending on the species. Some require full sunlight and may need supplemental lighting year round, while types that originate in the floor of the rainforest may need filtered light. If you aren’t sure of the variety, place your plant in moderate to bright light and avoid, direct, intense sunlight. If the leaves turn yellow or the leaf edges look brown or scorched, move the plant into lower light. Water – When growing pitcher plant indoors, water as needed to keep the potting soil moist, but not soggy. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water, as wet soil can cause the plant to rot. Most importantly, pitcher plants are sensitive to the chemicals in tap water and benefit greatly from distilled water or rain water.
Temperature – Indoor pitcher plant care generally requires warm temperatures between 65 and 80 F. (18-27 C.) Read the care tag, however, as some varieties prefer very warm nights while others need cooler nighttime temps between 45 and 65 F. (7-18 C.) Potting soil – Pitcher plants tolerate a wide range of potting mixtures as long as the mixture is relatively low in nutrients and provides excellent drainage. Many gardeners prefer a combination of half perlite and half dry sphagnum moss. You can also use a mixture of half sharp sand or perlite and half peat moss. Avoid regular commercial mix, which is too rich.
Feeding – Pitcher plants generally require no supplemental fertilizer, although you can mist the plants with a very dilute fertilizer solution during spring and summer (mix no more than ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon, using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for bromeliads or orchids). Your adult pitcher plant will be happy if it can catch a couple of insects every month. If you don’t have bugs flying around your house, provide a freshly killed insect once in a while, (no insecticides!). Use only small bugs that fit easily into the pitchers. Don’t overfeed, and don’t be tempted to give your plants chunks of meat. Remember that carnivorous plants have very low nutrient requirements and too much food or fertilizer can be deadly.
How to Care for Pitcher Plant Indoors
Light – If possible, refer to the tag that came with your pitcher plant, as sunlight requirements vary depending on the species. Some require full sunlight and may need supplemental lighting year round, while types that originate in the floor of the rainforest may need filtered light. If you aren’t sure of the variety, place your plant in moderate to bright light and avoid, direct, intense sunlight. If the leaves turn yellow or the leaf edges look brown or scorched, move the plant into lower light. Water – When growing pitcher plant indoors, water as needed to keep the potting soil moist, but not soggy. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water, as wet soil can cause the plant to rot. Most importantly, pitcher plants are sensitive to the chemicals in tap water and benefit greatly from distilled water or rain water.
Temperature – Indoor pitcher plant care generally requires warm temperatures between 65 and 80 F. (18-27 C.) Read the care tag, however, as some varieties prefer very warm nights while others need cooler nighttime temps between 45 and 65 F. (7-18 C.) Potting soil – Pitcher plants tolerate a wide range of potting mixtures as long as the mixture is relatively low in nutrients and provides excellent drainage. Many gardeners prefer a combination of half perlite and half dry sphagnum moss. You can also use a mixture of half sharp sand or perlite and half peat moss. Avoid regular commercial mix, which is too rich.
Feeding – Pitcher plants generally require no supplemental fertilizer, although you can mist the plants with a very dilute fertilizer solution during spring and summer (mix no more than ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon, using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for bromeliads or orchids). Your adult pitcher plant will be happy if it can catch a couple of insects every month. If you don’t have bugs flying around your house, provide a freshly killed insect once in a while, (no insecticides!). Use only small bugs that fit easily into the pitchers. Don’t overfeed, and don’t be tempted to give your plants chunks of meat. Remember that carnivorous plants have very low nutrient requirements and too much food or fertilizer can be deadly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus is a hardy tropical cactus that brightens the environment with gorgeous, red and pink blooms around the winter holidays. Although Christmas cactus is easy to get along with and requires minimal care, it is susceptible to root rot. Usually, this dreaded fungal disease is not caused by inattention, but is the result of improper watering.
Signs of Root Rot in Christmas Cactus
A holiday cactus with root rot displays wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an inspection of the roots will tell the tale.
Remove the plant gently from its pot. If the cactus is affected by rot, the roots will display blackened tips. Depending on the severity of the disease, rotten Christmas cactus roots will be slimy with black or brown decay. If you determine that your Christmas cactus is rotting, it’s critical to act fast. Rot is a deadly disease and once it progresses, the only option is to discard the plant and start fresh. If part of the plant is healthy, you can use a leaf to propagate a new plant.
Treating a Holiday Cactus with Root Rot
If you catch the disease early, you may be able to save it. Remove the Christmas cactus from the container immediately. Trim away affected roots and rinse the remaining roots gently to remove fungus. Place the plant on a paper towel and put it in a warm, well-ventilated location so the roots can dry overnight. Place the Christmas cactus in a dry pot with fresh, lightweight potting soil the next day. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole so the soil can drain freely. Wait a couple of days before watering the newly potted Christmas cactus. When you resume watering, be sure you understand the most effective way to irrigate your Christmas cactus. Always water thoroughly until water drips through the drainage hole, then let the plant drain before returning the pot to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant stand in water. Be careful not to kill the plant with kindness; slightly underwatered conditions are healthiest. Don’t water until the top ½ inch of soil feels dry. Water sparingly during the winter months, but don’t allow the potting mix to become bone dry. Place the plant in bright sunlight during fall and winter and in light shade during spring and summer.
Signs of Root Rot in Christmas Cactus
A holiday cactus with root rot displays wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an inspection of the roots will tell the tale.
Remove the plant gently from its pot. If the cactus is affected by rot, the roots will display blackened tips. Depending on the severity of the disease, rotten Christmas cactus roots will be slimy with black or brown decay. If you determine that your Christmas cactus is rotting, it’s critical to act fast. Rot is a deadly disease and once it progresses, the only option is to discard the plant and start fresh. If part of the plant is healthy, you can use a leaf to propagate a new plant.
Treating a Holiday Cactus with Root Rot
If you catch the disease early, you may be able to save it. Remove the Christmas cactus from the container immediately. Trim away affected roots and rinse the remaining roots gently to remove fungus. Place the plant on a paper towel and put it in a warm, well-ventilated location so the roots can dry overnight. Place the Christmas cactus in a dry pot with fresh, lightweight potting soil the next day. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole so the soil can drain freely. Wait a couple of days before watering the newly potted Christmas cactus. When you resume watering, be sure you understand the most effective way to irrigate your Christmas cactus. Always water thoroughly until water drips through the drainage hole, then let the plant drain before returning the pot to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant stand in water. Be careful not to kill the plant with kindness; slightly underwatered conditions are healthiest. Don’t water until the top ½ inch of soil feels dry. Water sparingly during the winter months, but don’t allow the potting mix to become bone dry. Place the plant in bright sunlight during fall and winter and in light shade during spring and summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus is a familiar plant that produces masses of colorful blooms to brighten the environment in the darkest days of winter. Although Christmas cactus is relatively easy to get along with, it isn’t uncommon to notice a Christmas cactus with yellow leaves. Why do Christmas cactus leaves turn yellow? There are several possible reasons for yellow Christmas cactus leaves.
Troubleshooting a Christmas Cactus with Yellow Leaves
If you notice your Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow, consider the following possibilities:
Time to repot – If the container is packed tightly with roots, the Christmas cactus may be potbound. Move the Christmas cactus to a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with a mixture that drains well, such as two parts potting mix and one part coarse sand or perlite. Water well, then withhold fertilizer for a month after repotting a Christmas cactus. However, don’t rush to repot because this plant actually thrives in a crowded pot. As a general rule, don’t repot unless it’s been at least two or three years since the last repotting.
Improper watering – Yellow Christmas cactus leaves may be a sign that the plant has a disease known as root rot, which is caused by excessive watering or poor drainage. To check for root rot, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. Diseased roots will be brown or black, and they may have a mushy appearance or a musty odor. If the plant has rot, it may be doomed; however, you can attempt to save the plant by trimming the rotted roots and moving the plant to a clean pot with fresh potting mix. To prevent root rot, water only when top 2 to 3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or if the leaves look flat and wrinkly. Decrease watering after blooming, and provide only enough moisture to prevent the plant from wilting. Nutritional needs – Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow may be an indication that the plant is lacking necessary nutrients, especially if you don’t fertilize regularly. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn using an all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Additionally, Christmas cactus is said to have a high magnesium requirement. As such, some resources recommend a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed in one gallon of water applied once monthly throughout spring and summer.
Stagger feedings and don’t apply the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Too much direct light – Although Christmas cactus benefits from bright light during fall and winter, too much sunlight during the summer months can give the leaves a yellow, washed-out appearance. Now that you know why leaves turn yellow on Christmas cactus, this problem need not be frustrating anymore.
Troubleshooting a Christmas Cactus with Yellow Leaves
If you notice your Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow, consider the following possibilities:
Time to repot – If the container is packed tightly with roots, the Christmas cactus may be potbound. Move the Christmas cactus to a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with a mixture that drains well, such as two parts potting mix and one part coarse sand or perlite. Water well, then withhold fertilizer for a month after repotting a Christmas cactus. However, don’t rush to repot because this plant actually thrives in a crowded pot. As a general rule, don’t repot unless it’s been at least two or three years since the last repotting.
Improper watering – Yellow Christmas cactus leaves may be a sign that the plant has a disease known as root rot, which is caused by excessive watering or poor drainage. To check for root rot, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. Diseased roots will be brown or black, and they may have a mushy appearance or a musty odor. If the plant has rot, it may be doomed; however, you can attempt to save the plant by trimming the rotted roots and moving the plant to a clean pot with fresh potting mix. To prevent root rot, water only when top 2 to 3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or if the leaves look flat and wrinkly. Decrease watering after blooming, and provide only enough moisture to prevent the plant from wilting. Nutritional needs – Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow may be an indication that the plant is lacking necessary nutrients, especially if you don’t fertilize regularly. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn using an all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Additionally, Christmas cactus is said to have a high magnesium requirement. As such, some resources recommend a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed in one gallon of water applied once monthly throughout spring and summer.
Stagger feedings and don’t apply the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Too much direct light – Although Christmas cactus benefits from bright light during fall and winter, too much sunlight during the summer months can give the leaves a yellow, washed-out appearance. Now that you know why leaves turn yellow on Christmas cactus, this problem need not be frustrating anymore.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Scented candles and chemical air fresheners are popular ways to create a pleasant home environment, but a healthier and more environmentally friendly choice is to add fragrant houseplants to your home. There are many houseplants whose flowers or foliage will contribute enjoyable scents to your home and help cover disagreeable odors. Using plants for good air quality can help you eliminate the chemicals found in commercial air fresheners from your home.
Houseplants That Freshen the Air
There are many houseplants that act as natural air fresheners. Among the most popular fragrant houseplants are the scented geraniums, perfume-leaved members of the genus Pelargonium. Varieties are available with fragrances reminiscent of apple, coconut, lemon, rose, cinnamon, and dozens of other scents. Scented geraniums also have attractive leaves with interesting shapes ranging from rounded to crinkled to deeply divided.
Many people are familiar with the sweet-smelling blossoms of citrus trees, whose extracts are used in perfumes and confections. Did you know that some citrus varieties can be grown as houseplants? Citrus varieties that will bloom and possibly produce fruit indoors include Meyer lemon, calamondin, and Trovita orange. Flowering and fruit production will be best if you provide your citrus with lots of light, and the plants will benefit greatly from being brought outdoors during the warm season.
Also, consider growing an aromatic relative from the citrus family, the orange jessamine (Murraya paniculata). Though its fruits are inedible, it produces hundreds of white flowers with a lovely scent. Some of the most aromatic houseplants are tropical shrubs like gardenia and plumeria. Both of these are higher on the houseplant difficulty scale but will reward you with wonderfully fragrant and showy flowers. Plumeria, also known as frangipani, is a tropical plant often used in perfumes. Gardenias are known for their white rose-like flowers whose scent can fill a room. Both need lots of light, so it’s best if you have a sunroom or can provide them with grow lights.
Common spices and herbs can be grown as natural air fresheners that will also provide you with ingredients for the kitchen. You can choose common herbs like:
Thyme
Mint
Oregano
Lavender
Likewise, try more unusual selections such as sweet bay or Cuban oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus). Try drying the herbs and using them to add beauty and fragrance around the house. Some types of potted bulbs not only make nice indoor displays but give off pleasant aromas. Hyacinths and paperwhites are common for this purpose.
Growing Houseplants for Air Freshener Use
For most fragrant flowering plants, providing more light indoors will aid production of the aromatic flowers. Be sure to provide each variety you choose with the conditions it needs, including the proper soil type, appropriate watering and humidity conditions, good drainage, and fertilizer as needed. With proper care, these natural air fresheners will improve your home environment without the addition of chemicals.
Houseplants That Freshen the Air
There are many houseplants that act as natural air fresheners. Among the most popular fragrant houseplants are the scented geraniums, perfume-leaved members of the genus Pelargonium. Varieties are available with fragrances reminiscent of apple, coconut, lemon, rose, cinnamon, and dozens of other scents. Scented geraniums also have attractive leaves with interesting shapes ranging from rounded to crinkled to deeply divided.
Many people are familiar with the sweet-smelling blossoms of citrus trees, whose extracts are used in perfumes and confections. Did you know that some citrus varieties can be grown as houseplants? Citrus varieties that will bloom and possibly produce fruit indoors include Meyer lemon, calamondin, and Trovita orange. Flowering and fruit production will be best if you provide your citrus with lots of light, and the plants will benefit greatly from being brought outdoors during the warm season.
Also, consider growing an aromatic relative from the citrus family, the orange jessamine (Murraya paniculata). Though its fruits are inedible, it produces hundreds of white flowers with a lovely scent. Some of the most aromatic houseplants are tropical shrubs like gardenia and plumeria. Both of these are higher on the houseplant difficulty scale but will reward you with wonderfully fragrant and showy flowers. Plumeria, also known as frangipani, is a tropical plant often used in perfumes. Gardenias are known for their white rose-like flowers whose scent can fill a room. Both need lots of light, so it’s best if you have a sunroom or can provide them with grow lights.
Common spices and herbs can be grown as natural air fresheners that will also provide you with ingredients for the kitchen. You can choose common herbs like:
Thyme
Mint
Oregano
Lavender
Likewise, try more unusual selections such as sweet bay or Cuban oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus). Try drying the herbs and using them to add beauty and fragrance around the house. Some types of potted bulbs not only make nice indoor displays but give off pleasant aromas. Hyacinths and paperwhites are common for this purpose.
Growing Houseplants for Air Freshener Use
For most fragrant flowering plants, providing more light indoors will aid production of the aromatic flowers. Be sure to provide each variety you choose with the conditions it needs, including the proper soil type, appropriate watering and humidity conditions, good drainage, and fertilizer as needed. With proper care, these natural air fresheners will improve your home environment without the addition of chemicals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Many of us are familiar with cyclamen as a charming florist’s plant that brightens up the indoor environment during the gloomy winter months. What we may not realize, however, is that cyclamen, a cousin to the cheery little primrose, is actually native to the Mediterranean and surrounding areas. In the home garden, cyclamen is often grown in woodland settings, although many types of cyclamen plants thrive in Alpine meadows. The typical florist cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is only one of many cyclamen plant types. In fact, there are more than 20 species within the genus. Read on for a small sampling of cyclamen plant types and cyclamen varieties.
Cyclamen Plant Types and Cyclamen Varieties
Cyclamen heredifolium, also known as ivy-leaved cyclamen, is a robust species that tolerates relatively cold winters. In the United States, it has naturalized in parts of the Pacific Northwest. This autumn-flowering species, popular and easy to grow in the home garden, blooms in shades of pink or white tinged with pink. Grow C. heredifolium in Zones 5 through 7. Cyclamen varieties within this species include: ‘Nettleton Silver’ ‘Pewter White’ ‘Silver Arrow’‘Silver Cloud’ ‘Bowle’s Apollo’ ‘White Cloud’ Cyclamen coum sports quarter-sized green or patterned, rounded or heart-shaped leaves that typically appear in autumn. Small, bright flowers poke up through the foliage in midwinter. This species is hardy to USDA zones 6 and above.
Varieties of C. coum include several cultivars within the ‘Pewter Leaf’ group as well as the following: ‘Album’ ‘Maurice Dryden’ ‘Something Magic’ ‘Rubrum’ ‘Silver Leaf’ ‘Blush’ Cyclamen graecum can be difficult to grow and often isn’t as vigorous as other varieties. However, this species is stunning, with velvety, deep green foliage in vivid colors and patterns. Tiny blooms, sometimes sweetly scented, rise just above the foliage in late summer and autumn. This tender variety is suitable for zones 7 through 9. Cyclamen plant varieties within the C. graecum species include ‘Glyfada’ and ‘Rhodopou.’
Cyclamen mirabile is a charming fall bloomer that produces dainty little flowers and decorative, silver dollar-sized leaves in patterns of green and silver. This species grows in zones 6 through 8. Varieties of C. mirabile include ‘Tilebarn Ann,’ ‘Tilebarn Nicholas’ and ‘Tilebarn Jan.’
Cyclamen Plant Types and Cyclamen Varieties
Cyclamen heredifolium, also known as ivy-leaved cyclamen, is a robust species that tolerates relatively cold winters. In the United States, it has naturalized in parts of the Pacific Northwest. This autumn-flowering species, popular and easy to grow in the home garden, blooms in shades of pink or white tinged with pink. Grow C. heredifolium in Zones 5 through 7. Cyclamen varieties within this species include: ‘Nettleton Silver’ ‘Pewter White’ ‘Silver Arrow’‘Silver Cloud’ ‘Bowle’s Apollo’ ‘White Cloud’ Cyclamen coum sports quarter-sized green or patterned, rounded or heart-shaped leaves that typically appear in autumn. Small, bright flowers poke up through the foliage in midwinter. This species is hardy to USDA zones 6 and above.
Varieties of C. coum include several cultivars within the ‘Pewter Leaf’ group as well as the following: ‘Album’ ‘Maurice Dryden’ ‘Something Magic’ ‘Rubrum’ ‘Silver Leaf’ ‘Blush’ Cyclamen graecum can be difficult to grow and often isn’t as vigorous as other varieties. However, this species is stunning, with velvety, deep green foliage in vivid colors and patterns. Tiny blooms, sometimes sweetly scented, rise just above the foliage in late summer and autumn. This tender variety is suitable for zones 7 through 9. Cyclamen plant varieties within the C. graecum species include ‘Glyfada’ and ‘Rhodopou.’
Cyclamen mirabile is a charming fall bloomer that produces dainty little flowers and decorative, silver dollar-sized leaves in patterns of green and silver. This species grows in zones 6 through 8. Varieties of C. mirabile include ‘Tilebarn Ann,’ ‘Tilebarn Nicholas’ and ‘Tilebarn Jan.’
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Although there are more than 20 species of cyclamen, florist’s cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is the most familiar, typically given as gifts to brighten up the indoor environment during late winter’s gloom. This little charmer is especially popular around Christmas and Valentine’s Day, but what about caring for cyclamen after flowering? If you’ve been wondering how to treat cyclamen after blooming, read on to learn how to do just that!
Keeping Cyclamen After Blooms Fade
What to do with a cyclamen after flowering? Often, florist’s cyclamen is considered a seasonal gift. It can be difficult to get a cyclamen to rebloom, so the plant is frequently discarded after it has lost its beauty. Although keeping cyclamens after blooms fade is a bit of a challenge, it’s definitely possible. Proper light and temperature are the keys to caring for cyclamen after flowering.
How to Treat Cyclamen After Blooming
It’s normal for cyclamen to lose its leaves and go dormant after flowering. The plant requires a period of dormancy during the summer so the tuberous root has time to re-energize for the coming blooming season. Here are the steps: Gradually cut back on watering when the leaves begin to wilt and turn yellow. Use scissors to remove all remaining dead and dying foliage. Place the tuber in a container with the top half of the tuber sitting above the surface of the soil. Put the container in a cool, shady room, away from bright or direct light. Be sure the plant isn’t exposed to frost.
Withhold water and fertilizer during the dormant period – generally six to eight weeks. Watering during dormancy will rot the tuber. As soon as you see new growth sometime between September and December, move the cyclamen into bright sunlight and water the plant thoroughly. Keep the cyclamen in a cool room with daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 F. (16-18 C.), and nighttime temps at about 50 F. (10 C.). Feed the plant monthly, using a liquid fertilizer for indoor plants. Watch for the cyclamen to rebloom in midwinter, as long as conditions are just right.
Keeping Cyclamen After Blooms Fade
What to do with a cyclamen after flowering? Often, florist’s cyclamen is considered a seasonal gift. It can be difficult to get a cyclamen to rebloom, so the plant is frequently discarded after it has lost its beauty. Although keeping cyclamens after blooms fade is a bit of a challenge, it’s definitely possible. Proper light and temperature are the keys to caring for cyclamen after flowering.
How to Treat Cyclamen After Blooming
It’s normal for cyclamen to lose its leaves and go dormant after flowering. The plant requires a period of dormancy during the summer so the tuberous root has time to re-energize for the coming blooming season. Here are the steps: Gradually cut back on watering when the leaves begin to wilt and turn yellow. Use scissors to remove all remaining dead and dying foliage. Place the tuber in a container with the top half of the tuber sitting above the surface of the soil. Put the container in a cool, shady room, away from bright or direct light. Be sure the plant isn’t exposed to frost.
Withhold water and fertilizer during the dormant period – generally six to eight weeks. Watering during dormancy will rot the tuber. As soon as you see new growth sometime between September and December, move the cyclamen into bright sunlight and water the plant thoroughly. Keep the cyclamen in a cool room with daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 F. (16-18 C.), and nighttime temps at about 50 F. (10 C.). Feed the plant monthly, using a liquid fertilizer for indoor plants. Watch for the cyclamen to rebloom in midwinter, as long as conditions are just right.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Chinese evergreen plants (Aglaonemas spp.) are leafy plants popular in homes and offices. They thrive in low light and a mild, protected environment. They are compact plants and grow big leaves that are a mix of green and cream color. Pruning Chinese evergreen plant foliage is hardly ever required. However, there are times that trimming Chinese evergreens is appropriate. Keep reading for more information on when and how to cut back a Chinese evergreen.
Chinese Evergreen Pruning
Many houseplants require regular or even constant pruning and pinching to keep them looking good. One of the advantages of Chinese evergreen is that they are very low maintenance. As long as you keep these plants in low light areas with temperatures of 65 to 75 F. (18-23 C.), they will likely thrive.
Because of the dense leafing of the plant, trimming Chinese evergreens is not a must. In fact, since new growth appears from the plant crown, pruning Chinese evergreen plant leaves can kill the entire plant. You may be tempted to pick up the pruners if the plant, as it matures, begins to look leggy. Experts suggest that you resist. Instead, consider planting pothos or another species of low-light plant, to fill in the bare spots.
How to Cut Back a Chinese Evergreen
Occasions for pruning Chinese evergreen plant are few and far between, but they do arise. Prune off any dead leaves in order to keep the houseplant looking its best. Trim them off as low as you can by reaching deep into the center of the plant. Another occasion for trimming Chinese evergreens comes in the spring, if the plant produces flowers. Blooms generally appear in the spring – watch for a spathe and spadix in the middle of the leaves.
You are probably helping the plant by removing these flowers since it lets the Chinese evergreen use that energy for foliage growth. Since the flowers are not extremely attractive, you will not suffer from their loss. If you feel badly pruning Chinese evergreen plant flowers off the plant, do it anyway. Remember that removing the blossoms is good for the longevity of the plant.
Chinese Evergreen Pruning
Many houseplants require regular or even constant pruning and pinching to keep them looking good. One of the advantages of Chinese evergreen is that they are very low maintenance. As long as you keep these plants in low light areas with temperatures of 65 to 75 F. (18-23 C.), they will likely thrive.
Because of the dense leafing of the plant, trimming Chinese evergreens is not a must. In fact, since new growth appears from the plant crown, pruning Chinese evergreen plant leaves can kill the entire plant. You may be tempted to pick up the pruners if the plant, as it matures, begins to look leggy. Experts suggest that you resist. Instead, consider planting pothos or another species of low-light plant, to fill in the bare spots.
How to Cut Back a Chinese Evergreen
Occasions for pruning Chinese evergreen plant are few and far between, but they do arise. Prune off any dead leaves in order to keep the houseplant looking its best. Trim them off as low as you can by reaching deep into the center of the plant. Another occasion for trimming Chinese evergreens comes in the spring, if the plant produces flowers. Blooms generally appear in the spring – watch for a spathe and spadix in the middle of the leaves.
You are probably helping the plant by removing these flowers since it lets the Chinese evergreen use that energy for foliage growth. Since the flowers are not extremely attractive, you will not suffer from their loss. If you feel badly pruning Chinese evergreen plant flowers off the plant, do it anyway. Remember that removing the blossoms is good for the longevity of the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
A new owner of Tillandsia may wonder “can you water an air plant too much?” How often to mist air plants depends upon the type, the situation and the size of the plant as well as the environment. There are three main ways to keep your air plant moist. Once you know all three, you can decide which way will work best for your plant. This article will tell you the methods and how often to mist air plants. Then you will be on your way to healthy, happy Tillandsia of any variety.
Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?
Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we’ll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist.
Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn’t get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn’t in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.
How Do I Water an Air Plant?
The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet. How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter. Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots. Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.
When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial
Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant’s setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.
Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?
Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we’ll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist.
Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn’t get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn’t in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.
How Do I Water an Air Plant?
The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet. How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter. Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots. Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.
When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial
Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant’s setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Boston fern (Nephrolepsis exaltata bostoniensis) is a dependable, old-fashioned charmer that decorates the environment with cascades of graceful, deep green fronds. Boston fern is a tropical plant that thrives with minimal care; however, light requirements for Boston ferns is a critical aspect of successful growing. Keep reading to learn about Boston fern light needs, including Boston fern light conditions.
How Much Light Does a Boston Fern Need?
Boston fern light needs vary depending on the time of year. The plant benefits from bright, indirect light during fall and winter. A location where the plant gets at least two hours of indirect sunlight per day, preferably in the morning or late afternoon, is ideal.
Boston fern light conditions must change when sunlight is more intense in spring and summer. During the sunny time of year, the fern needs a semi-shady location, such as a window with a northern exposure. Avoid direct, intense sunlight from a window with southern or western exposure unless the window is protected by a sheer curtain, or if the window is shaded by a tall outdoor tree. Consider two important factors when you think about Boston fern indoor light any time of year. Boston fern won’t tolerate bright sunlight or total shade.
First, avoid intense, direct light, which can scorch the fronds. Secondly, keep in mind that without adequate sunlight, the plant won’t thrive and is likely to drop its leaves. Now that you know about Boston fern light conditions, you can consider the plant’s other needs, which aren’t complicated. Water the plant deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly before you return the plant to its drainage saucer. If the indoor air is dry, place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles to raise the humidity around the plant, but never let the pot sit in water.
Fertilize the fern every four to six weeks during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or use organic fish emulsion. Mist the plant occasionally to clean dust from the leaves, but don’t overdo; damp fronds are more susceptible to disease. Snip old fronds at soil level to generate healthy new growth.
How Much Light Does a Boston Fern Need?
Boston fern light needs vary depending on the time of year. The plant benefits from bright, indirect light during fall and winter. A location where the plant gets at least two hours of indirect sunlight per day, preferably in the morning or late afternoon, is ideal.
Boston fern light conditions must change when sunlight is more intense in spring and summer. During the sunny time of year, the fern needs a semi-shady location, such as a window with a northern exposure. Avoid direct, intense sunlight from a window with southern or western exposure unless the window is protected by a sheer curtain, or if the window is shaded by a tall outdoor tree. Consider two important factors when you think about Boston fern indoor light any time of year. Boston fern won’t tolerate bright sunlight or total shade.
First, avoid intense, direct light, which can scorch the fronds. Secondly, keep in mind that without adequate sunlight, the plant won’t thrive and is likely to drop its leaves. Now that you know about Boston fern light conditions, you can consider the plant’s other needs, which aren’t complicated. Water the plant deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly before you return the plant to its drainage saucer. If the indoor air is dry, place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles to raise the humidity around the plant, but never let the pot sit in water.
Fertilize the fern every four to six weeks during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or use organic fish emulsion. Mist the plant occasionally to clean dust from the leaves, but don’t overdo; damp fronds are more susceptible to disease. Snip old fronds at soil level to generate healthy new growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Even though gnats and ants are not harmful to humans or pets, they can quickly turn your once peaceful environment into a stressful situation. If not controlled, gnats and ants can make their way indoors, feasting on your food and infesting your houseplants. Thankfully, you can use several techniques to get rid of gnats and ants before they invade your home.
Gnats
Step 1
Mix of 1 to 8 teaspoons of Bacillus thuringiensis for every 1 gallon of water. Bacillus thuringiensis is a safe insecticide that targets species of pest including fungus gnat larva. Use this mixture as a soil drench in your lawn to control gnats.
Step 2
Avoid overwatering outside plants and lawns. Gnats thrive in damp organic matter such as soggy mulch, fertilizers and overly saturated soils. By eliminating these moist conditions, you will greatly reduce the gnat population in your lawn.
Step 3
Drain gutters, containers, jars and other outdoor receptacles regularly to discourage annoying insects -- such as gnats, flies and mosquitoes -- from laying their eggs in the standing water.
Ants
Step 4
Remove grass, organic mulch and plants about 1 foot away from your home's foundation. This reduces the chance of ants nesting and foraging.
Step 5
Sprinkle a thin layer of a dust insecticide containing carbaryl over a slightly dampened lawn. Repeat the process no more than once every 14 days.
Step 6
Create homemade ant bait stations by mixing 4 teaspoons of table sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of boric acid and 4 ounces of hot water in a small glass jar. Place two or three cotton balls inside the jar and secure it with the lid. Poke several holes in the lid to allow ants to enter the station. Place the bait station out of direct sunlight but in the path of the ants' trail. The ants will take the bait back to the nest killing the rest of the colony.
Gnats
Step 1
Mix of 1 to 8 teaspoons of Bacillus thuringiensis for every 1 gallon of water. Bacillus thuringiensis is a safe insecticide that targets species of pest including fungus gnat larva. Use this mixture as a soil drench in your lawn to control gnats.
Step 2
Avoid overwatering outside plants and lawns. Gnats thrive in damp organic matter such as soggy mulch, fertilizers and overly saturated soils. By eliminating these moist conditions, you will greatly reduce the gnat population in your lawn.
Step 3
Drain gutters, containers, jars and other outdoor receptacles regularly to discourage annoying insects -- such as gnats, flies and mosquitoes -- from laying their eggs in the standing water.
Ants
Step 4
Remove grass, organic mulch and plants about 1 foot away from your home's foundation. This reduces the chance of ants nesting and foraging.
Step 5
Sprinkle a thin layer of a dust insecticide containing carbaryl over a slightly dampened lawn. Repeat the process no more than once every 14 days.
Step 6
Create homemade ant bait stations by mixing 4 teaspoons of table sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of boric acid and 4 ounces of hot water in a small glass jar. Place two or three cotton balls inside the jar and secure it with the lid. Poke several holes in the lid to allow ants to enter the station. Place the bait station out of direct sunlight but in the path of the ants' trail. The ants will take the bait back to the nest killing the rest of the colony.
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