文章
莹723
2020年11月26日
When natural food is in short supply, birds need our help. What food should you provide? They find most of their food – such as insects, worms, slugs, snails and caterpillars – in the natural environment, but supplementary food in feeders can provide extra help. This is particularly useful when there is too much rain and caterpillars are washed off leaves, or in times of drought, when worms and other grubs retreat far below the soil surface.
——What to feed garden birds
Sunflower hearts are a great all-round option. They contain the same high calorie content as sunflower seeds, but don’t have husks and therefore don’t make a mess. If you can provide a range of foods, however, the birds will have a choice and you’re likely to attract a wider selection. For the greatest variety leave out a seed mix, a fat-based product such as fat balls, and a protein-rich source such as mealworms.
Many gardeners leave out peanuts for the birds, but these aren’t always popular. This is due to the energy required to eat a peanut – birds have to manipulate the food in their beaks before they can swallow it, whereas other foods, such as sunflower hearts, enable them to simply grab and swallow. Larger birds, like jays and woodpeckers, can manage peanuts, and tits will persevere if they’re all that’s on offer.
Dried foods are good for year-round feeding and store well for months in a sealed container. However, live or rehydrated mealworms are a good option in spring and summer, as they help to ensure chicks in the nest get the moisture they need.
——Where to feed garden birds
While tits and finches are expert at clinging to feeders, blackbirds, dunnocks and robins are much happier foraging on a flat surface, such as a bird table, short grass or paving. The latter also makes it easier for you to clear up spillage if you need to. In fact, good hygiene is a must. A bird-feeding area can be a hotbed for disease, so clean your feeders weekly using a weak disinfectant solution, rinse well before allowing them to dry and then refilling. It’s also important to move the location of feeders every month, to prevent the build up of bacteria in any one area.
You can try to tailor your mixes to the season, but it’s easier to simply adjust what you feed according to what gets eaten – birds are good at telling you what they need.
Because birds need natural food, it’s vital to ensure that your garden is full of seeds, berries and particularly insects. Grow caterpillar foodplants such as native trees and shrubs, allow weeds to flourish at the back of your borders and consider letting and area of grass grow long. Ditching insecticides and digging a pond will also increase insect abundance in your garden, providing masses more food for garden birds.
——How to feed garden birds in winter
Snows and hard frosts are a real killer for birds, but relentless cold rain can be just as bad, and of course winter days are so short for foraging. Garden birds are focused on survival and getting enough calories to see them through each day and night.
Put out a full spread of seeds and nuts such as sunflower seeds, hearts and peanuts, plus suet treats such as insect or fruit nibbles, and fat balls. You can also include scraps such as grated cheese and crumbled pastry, plus fat from unsalted cuts of meat.
——What to feed garden birds
Sunflower hearts are a great all-round option. They contain the same high calorie content as sunflower seeds, but don’t have husks and therefore don’t make a mess. If you can provide a range of foods, however, the birds will have a choice and you’re likely to attract a wider selection. For the greatest variety leave out a seed mix, a fat-based product such as fat balls, and a protein-rich source such as mealworms.
Many gardeners leave out peanuts for the birds, but these aren’t always popular. This is due to the energy required to eat a peanut – birds have to manipulate the food in their beaks before they can swallow it, whereas other foods, such as sunflower hearts, enable them to simply grab and swallow. Larger birds, like jays and woodpeckers, can manage peanuts, and tits will persevere if they’re all that’s on offer.
Dried foods are good for year-round feeding and store well for months in a sealed container. However, live or rehydrated mealworms are a good option in spring and summer, as they help to ensure chicks in the nest get the moisture they need.
——Where to feed garden birds
While tits and finches are expert at clinging to feeders, blackbirds, dunnocks and robins are much happier foraging on a flat surface, such as a bird table, short grass or paving. The latter also makes it easier for you to clear up spillage if you need to. In fact, good hygiene is a must. A bird-feeding area can be a hotbed for disease, so clean your feeders weekly using a weak disinfectant solution, rinse well before allowing them to dry and then refilling. It’s also important to move the location of feeders every month, to prevent the build up of bacteria in any one area.
You can try to tailor your mixes to the season, but it’s easier to simply adjust what you feed according to what gets eaten – birds are good at telling you what they need.
Because birds need natural food, it’s vital to ensure that your garden is full of seeds, berries and particularly insects. Grow caterpillar foodplants such as native trees and shrubs, allow weeds to flourish at the back of your borders and consider letting and area of grass grow long. Ditching insecticides and digging a pond will also increase insect abundance in your garden, providing masses more food for garden birds.
——How to feed garden birds in winter
Snows and hard frosts are a real killer for birds, but relentless cold rain can be just as bad, and of course winter days are so short for foraging. Garden birds are focused on survival and getting enough calories to see them through each day and night.
Put out a full spread of seeds and nuts such as sunflower seeds, hearts and peanuts, plus suet treats such as insect or fruit nibbles, and fat balls. You can also include scraps such as grated cheese and crumbled pastry, plus fat from unsalted cuts of meat.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Growing broccoli in a greenhouse gives you the ability to enjoy fresh broccoli year round. Although a greenhouse offers an enclosed environment in which to grow a variety of seasonal plants, if you live in an area with wide temperature swings, you must still control the temperature inside the greenhouse. Cold nights, for instance, can frostbite plants in an unheated greenhouse, wasting your hard work.
Step 1
Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature.
Step 2
Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air.
Step 3
Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep.
Step 4
Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible.
Step 5
Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6
Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms.
Step 7
Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months.
Step 8
Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
Step 1
Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature.
Step 2
Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air.
Step 3
Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep.
Step 4
Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible.
Step 5
Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6
Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms.
Step 7
Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months.
Step 8
Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
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Lisa Stout
2018年02月14日
Common: Common Vetch
Botanical: Vicia sativa
Native: mediteranian
Size: 5 ft wide
Likes: mountains, valleys, coastal environment, sprawling annual vine
Facts: nitrogen fixing legume, old as ancient times
Botanical: Vicia sativa
Native: mediteranian
Size: 5 ft wide
Likes: mountains, valleys, coastal environment, sprawling annual vine
Facts: nitrogen fixing legume, old as ancient times
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成长记
Avacha
2018年01月16日
Now Gamora’s living in my office. The poor creauture is wet after the antifungal treatment (though I suppose it’s OK as this plant typically likes humid environment, including moisture on its leaves). After the course of treatment I’m planning to relocate it on the windowsill, where the temperature is mostly lower, not speaking now about summer, and the sun can at least reach the plant.
The temperature’s 23C here, on my office table, and 19C on the windowsill. The humidity is (unfortunately) low everywhere in this room - 28% (here) - 31% (windowsill). #schlumbergera #antifungal #relocation #conditions
The temperature’s 23C here, on my office table, and 19C on the windowsill. The humidity is (unfortunately) low everywhere in this room - 28% (here) - 31% (windowsill). #schlumbergera #antifungal #relocation #conditions
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月30日
Pine trees and their fallen needles create an acidic soil environment hostile to many plants and fungi. There are, however, several types of mushrooms that not only tolerate the soil beneath pine trees but thrive in such a location. Mushrooms associated with pine trees include edibles, such as the prized king bolete and matsutake mushrooms, as well as poisonous mushrooms, like the death cap.
King Bolete
The king bolete, or Boletus edulis, is a European bolete mushroom associated with spruce and pine trees. This very large mushroom has a swollen, meaty stem and a smooth, brown cap with a tacky surface. According to Michael Kuo, author of "Morels" and "100 Edible Mushrooms," scientists debate whether North American examples of the king bolete are actually the same as the species found in Europe. However, regardless of classification, this pine-loving mushroom is prized for its nutty, slightly bitter flavor and works well in soups.
American Matsutake
A relative of the prized Japanese matsutake mushroom, American matsutake, or Tricholoma magnivelare, is a white to brownish mushroom with a partial veil on the stem. It has a distinctive spicy odor and a complex flavor. This mushroom is often found under jack pine trees in the American northeast.
Hedgehog Mushroom
Also called by its scientific name, Hydnum repandum, the hedgehog mushroom is an orange to tan fungus that grows near conifers. Its name comes from the distinctive spines on the underside of its cap. Except for these spines, it closely resembles the also-edible chanterelle mushroom. Hedgehog mushrooms taste similar to chantarelles, but are usually milder. Old specimens may have a bitter flavor.
Death Cap
This large, white toadstool is one of the most dangerous mushrooms in North America, not only for its poisonous nature but for its resemblance to edible field mushrooms. This fungus is mostly associated with European species of oak, but does grow under several types of pine tree, as well. Death cap mushrooms have a distinctive sack-like volva around their bases and a white ring under the cap.
King Bolete
The king bolete, or Boletus edulis, is a European bolete mushroom associated with spruce and pine trees. This very large mushroom has a swollen, meaty stem and a smooth, brown cap with a tacky surface. According to Michael Kuo, author of "Morels" and "100 Edible Mushrooms," scientists debate whether North American examples of the king bolete are actually the same as the species found in Europe. However, regardless of classification, this pine-loving mushroom is prized for its nutty, slightly bitter flavor and works well in soups.
American Matsutake
A relative of the prized Japanese matsutake mushroom, American matsutake, or Tricholoma magnivelare, is a white to brownish mushroom with a partial veil on the stem. It has a distinctive spicy odor and a complex flavor. This mushroom is often found under jack pine trees in the American northeast.
Hedgehog Mushroom
Also called by its scientific name, Hydnum repandum, the hedgehog mushroom is an orange to tan fungus that grows near conifers. Its name comes from the distinctive spines on the underside of its cap. Except for these spines, it closely resembles the also-edible chanterelle mushroom. Hedgehog mushrooms taste similar to chantarelles, but are usually milder. Old specimens may have a bitter flavor.
Death Cap
This large, white toadstool is one of the most dangerous mushrooms in North America, not only for its poisonous nature but for its resemblance to edible field mushrooms. This fungus is mostly associated with European species of oak, but does grow under several types of pine tree, as well. Death cap mushrooms have a distinctive sack-like volva around their bases and a white ring under the cap.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月26日
Grow edible mushrooms quickly in your home with a few supplies. The optimal growing environment produces mushrooms in about four weeks with harvest several weeks later, depending on the variety. Choose button (Agaricus bisporus), shiitake (Lentinula edodes) or oyster (Pleurotus species) mushrooms for the best results when growing mushrooms quickly at home.
Step 1
Make a mushroom grow box by cutting 11 sections that are each 50 inches long from 6-inch wide, untreated lumber planks. Attach four planks together at their ends with 2-inch long nails, making a box frame that is about 50 inches long and 6 inches deep. Nail the remaining seven planks along the box frame's bottom with 1-inch gaps between those planks to allow drainage. The length of planks can be adjusted to fit the space.
Step 2
Set the mushroom grow box in an area that remains dark, has an air temperature of 55 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and maintains a humidity between 80 and 95 percent.
Step 3
Fill the bottom of the grow box with a 5-inch layer of composted horse manure. Moisten the compost with water, and work it with your hands until it reaches the consistency of a moist sponge.
Step 4
Add a 1/2-inch layer of clean, dry hay on top of the horse manure layer. Add a 1/4-inch layer of composted poultry manure on top of the hay. Moisten the hay and composted poultry manure with water, and work the mixture with your hands until it reaches the consistency of a moist sponge.
Step 5
Sprinkle ammonium nitrate and gypsum lightly on top of the grow box's contents.
Step 6
Let the grow box rest until the growing medium reaches a temperature of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The growing medium should remain at that temperature during the mushroom growing process.
Step 7
Sprinkle mushroom spores evenly over the growing medium in the grow box, using the amount of spores listed for the grow box's size on the mushroom spores' package. Work the growing medium to a depth of 2 inches to incorporate the spores into the medium.
Step 8
Mist the top of the growing medium with water by using a water mister. Place two or three layers of newspaper on top of the growing medium. The newspaper holds in moisture and keeps light from the spores. Lift the edge of the newspaper layers every day to inspect the growing medium. Remove the layers of newspaper when white fungus appears on the top of the growing medium. Keep the light level dark after removing the newspaper.
Step 9
Mix equal portions of horticultural limestone and sphagnum moss. Sprinkle about a 1-inch layer of the mixture over top of the fungus in the growing bed for a casing treatment. The box's contents will mound slightly above the top of the box. Mist the growing bed with warm water, moistening the contents without making them wet. Repeat the water misting task several times each week, keeping the environment moist while mushrooms grow. Avoid letting the growing bed's contents dry out or become saturated with water.
Step 10
Monitor the mushrooms for the presence of fungus gnats and flies. Hang a sticky insect strip above the top of the mushroom grow box to kill catch the insects.
Step 11
Monitor the mushrooms for deformed or stunted growth, a sign of a fungal disease. Apply a food-safe fungicide if the mushrooms display either symptom after the casing treatment. Follow the fungicide package's instructions to determine the amount of fungicide to use for the grow box's size.
Step 1
Make a mushroom grow box by cutting 11 sections that are each 50 inches long from 6-inch wide, untreated lumber planks. Attach four planks together at their ends with 2-inch long nails, making a box frame that is about 50 inches long and 6 inches deep. Nail the remaining seven planks along the box frame's bottom with 1-inch gaps between those planks to allow drainage. The length of planks can be adjusted to fit the space.
Step 2
Set the mushroom grow box in an area that remains dark, has an air temperature of 55 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and maintains a humidity between 80 and 95 percent.
Step 3
Fill the bottom of the grow box with a 5-inch layer of composted horse manure. Moisten the compost with water, and work it with your hands until it reaches the consistency of a moist sponge.
Step 4
Add a 1/2-inch layer of clean, dry hay on top of the horse manure layer. Add a 1/4-inch layer of composted poultry manure on top of the hay. Moisten the hay and composted poultry manure with water, and work the mixture with your hands until it reaches the consistency of a moist sponge.
Step 5
Sprinkle ammonium nitrate and gypsum lightly on top of the grow box's contents.
Step 6
Let the grow box rest until the growing medium reaches a temperature of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The growing medium should remain at that temperature during the mushroom growing process.
Step 7
Sprinkle mushroom spores evenly over the growing medium in the grow box, using the amount of spores listed for the grow box's size on the mushroom spores' package. Work the growing medium to a depth of 2 inches to incorporate the spores into the medium.
Step 8
Mist the top of the growing medium with water by using a water mister. Place two or three layers of newspaper on top of the growing medium. The newspaper holds in moisture and keeps light from the spores. Lift the edge of the newspaper layers every day to inspect the growing medium. Remove the layers of newspaper when white fungus appears on the top of the growing medium. Keep the light level dark after removing the newspaper.
Step 9
Mix equal portions of horticultural limestone and sphagnum moss. Sprinkle about a 1-inch layer of the mixture over top of the fungus in the growing bed for a casing treatment. The box's contents will mound slightly above the top of the box. Mist the growing bed with warm water, moistening the contents without making them wet. Repeat the water misting task several times each week, keeping the environment moist while mushrooms grow. Avoid letting the growing bed's contents dry out or become saturated with water.
Step 10
Monitor the mushrooms for the presence of fungus gnats and flies. Hang a sticky insect strip above the top of the mushroom grow box to kill catch the insects.
Step 11
Monitor the mushrooms for deformed or stunted growth, a sign of a fungal disease. Apply a food-safe fungicide if the mushrooms display either symptom after the casing treatment. Follow the fungicide package's instructions to determine the amount of fungicide to use for the grow box's size.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
If you're interested in growing herbs, consider adding rosemary (Rosmarinus officianalis) to your list. Its delicate foliage is an attractive grayish-green and the plant fills the environment with its herbal aroma. Rosemary is generally easy to grow, but it might develop some problems if it's not given correct conditions or develops disease or pest problems. Catching these problems early can be essential to keep a rosemary plant in tip-top shape.
Not Enough Water
Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well.
If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip.
Over-Watering and Fungus
A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease.
If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems
A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant.
Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed.
Preventing Problems
Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed.
If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer.
Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
Not Enough Water
Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well.
If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip.
Over-Watering and Fungus
A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease.
If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems
A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant.
Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed.
Preventing Problems
Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed.
If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer.
Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) originated in the Mediterranean region, where it adapted to warm temperatures, sandy soil and a dry environment. In warmer areas (zones 7 to 11) it is a perennial and can grow outdoors. Plant rosemary in a pot in colder areas (zones 6 to 2) so it can be brought inside during winter to protect it from the cold. Rosemary prefers slightly alkaline, sandy, well-drained soil so that the roots do not stay wet and it can live up to 20 years when well cared for.
Starting from a Cutting
The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots.
Starting by Layering
Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed
Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting.
Growing Conditions
Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
Starting from a Cutting
The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots.
Starting by Layering
Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed
Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting.
Growing Conditions
Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are plants that store water in their tissues, enabling them to live in severe environments such as a desert. Many succulents thrive with full sun exposure. Once some varieties become accustomed to a low light environment, however, they can remain there indefinitely as long as they are cared for properly. Because succulents retain moisture in their thick foliage, they require soil that drains well and less water than typical houseplants.
Mason’s Congo
Originating in central Africa, Mason’s Congo (Sansevieria masoniana) can grow up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall by 2 feet (60 cm) wide. As an indoor plant, it requires little light or water. Its wide, dark-green leaf stalks are covered with lighter green spots, providing a statement in any office, and the plant is simple to maintain. Mason’s Congo is hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zone 10.
Jade Plant
The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a popular indoor plant. It requires minimal watering and is known in Japanese folklore as the Money Plant. According to legend, it can lead to financial success. The thick trunk and branches give this plant a tree like look similar to a bonsai tree. If planted outdoors, the jade plant is considered a perennial succulent, thriving in sunlight to partial shade in areas where it is hardy, USDA zones 10a to 11a.
Gasteria
The Gasterias (Gasteria sp.) grow well indoors. Similar to the Aloe plants, Gasteria has long, spiny, green leaves that grow in a rosette or spiral form. The leaves are spear-shaped and, as true with all succulents, swollen with water-storing tissue. Gasteria is named for its stomach-shaped flowers. The largest Gasteria grows up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Gasteria is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 11 in sandy soil.
Zebra Plant
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) doesn’t take up much room and needs even less care. It’s the ideal succulent for busy lives. Hailing from South Africa, plants perch on soil and sport a tidy form with leaves that boast striking horizontal white stripes. Zebra Plant is hardy outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Aloe Vera
Perhaps the most commonly known succulent is Aloe vera. It can be grown in low-light environments, although it thrives in sunlight. Aloe vera is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 9.
Mason’s Congo
Originating in central Africa, Mason’s Congo (Sansevieria masoniana) can grow up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall by 2 feet (60 cm) wide. As an indoor plant, it requires little light or water. Its wide, dark-green leaf stalks are covered with lighter green spots, providing a statement in any office, and the plant is simple to maintain. Mason’s Congo is hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zone 10.
Jade Plant
The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a popular indoor plant. It requires minimal watering and is known in Japanese folklore as the Money Plant. According to legend, it can lead to financial success. The thick trunk and branches give this plant a tree like look similar to a bonsai tree. If planted outdoors, the jade plant is considered a perennial succulent, thriving in sunlight to partial shade in areas where it is hardy, USDA zones 10a to 11a.
Gasteria
The Gasterias (Gasteria sp.) grow well indoors. Similar to the Aloe plants, Gasteria has long, spiny, green leaves that grow in a rosette or spiral form. The leaves are spear-shaped and, as true with all succulents, swollen with water-storing tissue. Gasteria is named for its stomach-shaped flowers. The largest Gasteria grows up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Gasteria is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 11 in sandy soil.
Zebra Plant
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) doesn’t take up much room and needs even less care. It’s the ideal succulent for busy lives. Hailing from South Africa, plants perch on soil and sport a tidy form with leaves that boast striking horizontal white stripes. Zebra Plant is hardy outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Aloe Vera
Perhaps the most commonly known succulent is Aloe vera. It can be grown in low-light environments, although it thrives in sunlight. Aloe vera is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 9.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Christmas Cactus is a hardy tropical cactus that brightens the environment with gorgeous, red and pink blooms around the winter holidays. Although Christmas Cactus is easy to get along with and requires minimal care, it is susceptible to root rot. Usually, this dreaded fungal disease is not caused by inattention, but is the result of improper watering.
Signs of Root Rot
A Christmas Cactus with root rot displays wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an inspection of the roots will tell the tale.
Remove the plant gently from its pot. If the cactus is affected by rot, the roots will display blackened tips. Depending on the severity of the disease, rotten Christmas Cactus roots will be slimy with black or brown decay.
If you determine that your Christmas Cactus is rotting, it’s critical to act fast. Rot is a deadly disease and once it progresses, the only option is to discard the plant and start fresh. If part of the plant is healthy, you can use a leaf to propagate a new plant.
Treatment
If you catch the disease early, you may be able to save it. Remove the Christmas Cactus from the container immediately. Trim away affected roots and rinse the remaining roots gently to remove fungus. Place the plant on a paper towel and put it in a warm, well-ventilated location so the roots can dry overnight.
Place the Christmas Cactus in a dry pot with fresh, lightweight potting soil the next day. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole so the soil can drain freely. Wait a couple of days before watering the newly potted Christmas Cactus.
Prevention
When you resume watering, be sure you understand the most effective way to irrigate your Christmas Cactus. Always water thoroughly until water drips through the drainage hole, then let the plant drain before returning the pot to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant stand in water.
Be careful not to kill the plant with kindness; slightly underwatered conditions are healthiest. Don’t water until the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil feels dry. Water sparingly during the winter months, but don’t allow the potting mix to become bone dry. Place the plant in bright sunlight during fall and winter and in light shade during spring and summer.
Signs of Root Rot
A Christmas Cactus with root rot displays wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an inspection of the roots will tell the tale.
Remove the plant gently from its pot. If the cactus is affected by rot, the roots will display blackened tips. Depending on the severity of the disease, rotten Christmas Cactus roots will be slimy with black or brown decay.
If you determine that your Christmas Cactus is rotting, it’s critical to act fast. Rot is a deadly disease and once it progresses, the only option is to discard the plant and start fresh. If part of the plant is healthy, you can use a leaf to propagate a new plant.
Treatment
If you catch the disease early, you may be able to save it. Remove the Christmas Cactus from the container immediately. Trim away affected roots and rinse the remaining roots gently to remove fungus. Place the plant on a paper towel and put it in a warm, well-ventilated location so the roots can dry overnight.
Place the Christmas Cactus in a dry pot with fresh, lightweight potting soil the next day. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole so the soil can drain freely. Wait a couple of days before watering the newly potted Christmas Cactus.
Prevention
When you resume watering, be sure you understand the most effective way to irrigate your Christmas Cactus. Always water thoroughly until water drips through the drainage hole, then let the plant drain before returning the pot to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant stand in water.
Be careful not to kill the plant with kindness; slightly underwatered conditions are healthiest. Don’t water until the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil feels dry. Water sparingly during the winter months, but don’t allow the potting mix to become bone dry. Place the plant in bright sunlight during fall and winter and in light shade during spring and summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Diagnosing the Problem
Phalaenopsis and other orchids respond quickly to anything amiss in their environment. Black spots are one of the trouble signs. The first step in treating the dark spots on your orchid's leaves is diagnosing the problem. Some phalaenopsis have naturally mottled leaves, so it may be natural coloration. However, leaf spotting can also signify a bacterial or fungal disease. Bacterial leaf spot is fairly common among orchids, and it can be aggressive and dangerous on phalaenopsis.
Similarly, fungal disorders and cause leaf spots, especially if the plant is left exposed to moisture on chilly nights.
Unless the plant is valuable, the best approach is to discard it, as the disease is highly contagious and will spread from plant to plant from splashing water.
Black Rot
A danger to orchids any time the weather is rainy or damp for extended periods, black rot can quickly destroy an entire plant if left unchecked. Caused by one or both of the fungi Pythium ultimum and Phytophthora cactorum, black rot affects a wide variety of orchids.
A Fungal Infection
The fungi that cause black rot in orchids consist of spores capable of independent movement, called zoospores, which swim through the water. If that water happens to be sitting on an orchid leaf, the zoospores can penetrate the plant tissue and begin the next stage in their life cycle. Once this occurs, the visible signs of infection - small, watery, translucent spots - expand quickly and change to brown and then black.
Left untreated, the affected plant or plants may infect others and will probably die themselves.
Symptoms
As it name implies, black rot shows up as dark blackish spots or lesions on the affected plant part. The black spot or spots enlarge rapidly and can spread throughout the plant. If allowed to reach the crown of a monopodial (single-stemmed) orchid, the rot will kill the plant.
Affected leaves may turn yellow around the infected area, and the lesions themselves will be soft and exude water when pressure is applied.
Prevention.
Unsterilized pots, media or water sources, as well as water splashed from affected plants nearby, are all excellent means of spreading the fungus. If your orchids are outside, keep them 3 to 4 feet above the ground to avoid splash contamination. Whether outside or inside, do not allow your orchids' leaves to remain wet for any extended periods. Good air circulation in the growing area is key. At first signs of infection, segregate all affected plants to avoid contaminating healthy plants. Finally, some growers recommend the use of a high-calcium fertilizer in the spring to help avoid black rot in new growth.
Cut Out the Rot
To stop the spread of black rot in your orchid, begin with a sterile knife and cut out the diseased portion of the plant. Remove the infected portion of the leaf, or the entire leaf if necessary, to halt the spread of the fungus before it reaches the crown. Place the plant in an area that receives good air circulation to allow the cut to dry.
Use a Fungicide
Once the infected plant parts have been removed, a fungicide should be applied to protect the remaining healthy tissue.
Cinnamon is an excellent fungicide, and ground cinnamon may be applied straight from the spice jar directly to the exposed area where infected portions of the plant have been excised. First Rays Orchids also recommends mixing cinnamon with either casein-based glue (such as Elmer's) or cooking oil to form a thick paste. This paste is fairly waterproof and can be used to cover the wound.
Drenching the affected plant with a fungicide is also an option. Drenches of a protectant fungicide such as Truban or Terrazole are recommended if the disease is diagnosed early. For more advanced cases, a systemic fungicide such as Aliette or Subdue is more effective. Captan, Dithane M-45, BanRot, Subdue and Physan 20 have also been recommended by some growers for control of black rot.
Phalaenopsis and other orchids respond quickly to anything amiss in their environment. Black spots are one of the trouble signs. The first step in treating the dark spots on your orchid's leaves is diagnosing the problem. Some phalaenopsis have naturally mottled leaves, so it may be natural coloration. However, leaf spotting can also signify a bacterial or fungal disease. Bacterial leaf spot is fairly common among orchids, and it can be aggressive and dangerous on phalaenopsis.
Similarly, fungal disorders and cause leaf spots, especially if the plant is left exposed to moisture on chilly nights.
Unless the plant is valuable, the best approach is to discard it, as the disease is highly contagious and will spread from plant to plant from splashing water.
Black Rot
A danger to orchids any time the weather is rainy or damp for extended periods, black rot can quickly destroy an entire plant if left unchecked. Caused by one or both of the fungi Pythium ultimum and Phytophthora cactorum, black rot affects a wide variety of orchids.
A Fungal Infection
The fungi that cause black rot in orchids consist of spores capable of independent movement, called zoospores, which swim through the water. If that water happens to be sitting on an orchid leaf, the zoospores can penetrate the plant tissue and begin the next stage in their life cycle. Once this occurs, the visible signs of infection - small, watery, translucent spots - expand quickly and change to brown and then black.
Left untreated, the affected plant or plants may infect others and will probably die themselves.
Symptoms
As it name implies, black rot shows up as dark blackish spots or lesions on the affected plant part. The black spot or spots enlarge rapidly and can spread throughout the plant. If allowed to reach the crown of a monopodial (single-stemmed) orchid, the rot will kill the plant.
Affected leaves may turn yellow around the infected area, and the lesions themselves will be soft and exude water when pressure is applied.
Prevention.
Unsterilized pots, media or water sources, as well as water splashed from affected plants nearby, are all excellent means of spreading the fungus. If your orchids are outside, keep them 3 to 4 feet above the ground to avoid splash contamination. Whether outside or inside, do not allow your orchids' leaves to remain wet for any extended periods. Good air circulation in the growing area is key. At first signs of infection, segregate all affected plants to avoid contaminating healthy plants. Finally, some growers recommend the use of a high-calcium fertilizer in the spring to help avoid black rot in new growth.
Cut Out the Rot
To stop the spread of black rot in your orchid, begin with a sterile knife and cut out the diseased portion of the plant. Remove the infected portion of the leaf, or the entire leaf if necessary, to halt the spread of the fungus before it reaches the crown. Place the plant in an area that receives good air circulation to allow the cut to dry.
Use a Fungicide
Once the infected plant parts have been removed, a fungicide should be applied to protect the remaining healthy tissue.
Cinnamon is an excellent fungicide, and ground cinnamon may be applied straight from the spice jar directly to the exposed area where infected portions of the plant have been excised. First Rays Orchids also recommends mixing cinnamon with either casein-based glue (such as Elmer's) or cooking oil to form a thick paste. This paste is fairly waterproof and can be used to cover the wound.
Drenching the affected plant with a fungicide is also an option. Drenches of a protectant fungicide such as Truban or Terrazole are recommended if the disease is diagnosed early. For more advanced cases, a systemic fungicide such as Aliette or Subdue is more effective. Captan, Dithane M-45, BanRot, Subdue and Physan 20 have also been recommended by some growers for control of black rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Trees growing in the wild rely on the soil to provide the nutrients they need to grow. In a backyard environment, trees and shrubs compete for available nutrients and may require fertilizer to keep them healthy. Arborvitae are narrow-leaf evergreen trees with leaves that look like scales. Different arborvitae species grow into different shapes and sizes, making the tree an excellent choice for hedges of any height or specimen plants. Beloved for their fast growth, arborvitae – especially those planted near other trees or in hedges – often require fertilizer to thrive. It isn’t difficult to begin fertilizing arborvitae. Read on to learn how to fertilize an arborvitae and the type of fertilizer for arborvitae.
Fertilizing Arborvitae
Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae?
If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae?
Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae?
It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
Fertilizing Arborvitae
Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae?
If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae?
Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae?
It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Cypress trees are fast-growing North American natives that deserve a prominent place in the landscape. Many gardeners don’t consider planting cypress because they believe it only grows in wet, boggy soil. While it’s true that their native environment is constantly wet, once they’re established, cypress trees grow well on dry land and can even withstand occasional drought. The two types of cypress trees found in the U.S. are bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) and pond cypress (T. distichum).
Cypress Tree Info
Cypress trees have a straight trunk that tapers at the base, giving it a soaring perspective. In cultivated landscapes, they grow 50 to 80 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. These deciduous conifers have short needles with a feathery appearance. Most varieties have needles that turn brown in winter, but a few have lovely yellow or gold fall color. Bald cypress has a tendency to form “knees,” which are pieces of root that grow above the ground in odd and sometimes mysterious shapes. Knees are more common for trees grown in water, and the deeper the water, the taller the knees. Some knees reach a height of 6 feet. Although no one is sure about the function of knees, they may help the tree get oxygen when they are underwater. These projections are sometimes unwelcome in the home landscape because they make mowing difficult and they can trip passers-by.
Where Cypress Trees Grow
Both types of cypress trees grow well in areas with lots of water. Bald cypress grows naturally near springs, on lake banks, in swamps or in bodies of water that flow at a slow to moderate rate. In cultivated landscapes, you can grow them in almost any soil. Pond cypress prefers still water and doesn’t grow well on land. This variety is rarely used in home landscapes because it needs boggy soil that is low in both nutrients and oxygen. It grows naturally in Southeastern wetlands, including the Everglades.
How to Care for Cypress Trees
Growing cypress trees successfully depends on planting the in the right location. Choose a site with full sun or partial shade and rich, acid soil. Cypress trees are hardy is USDA zones 5 through 10. Drench the soil around the tree after planting and cover the root zone with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch. Give the tree a good soaking every week for the first few months. Cypress trees need water most in spring when they enter a growth spurt and in fall just before they go dormant. They can withstand occasional drought once established, but it’s best to water them if you haven’t had a drenching rain for more than a month.
Wait a year after planting before fertilizing a cypress tree for the first time. Cypress trees growing in a regularly fertilized lawn don’t generally need additional fertilizer once established. Otherwise, fertilize the tree every year or two with a balanced fertilizer or a thin layer of compost in fall. Spread a pound of balanced fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter over an area approximately equal to the spread of the canopy.
Cypress Tree Info
Cypress trees have a straight trunk that tapers at the base, giving it a soaring perspective. In cultivated landscapes, they grow 50 to 80 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. These deciduous conifers have short needles with a feathery appearance. Most varieties have needles that turn brown in winter, but a few have lovely yellow or gold fall color. Bald cypress has a tendency to form “knees,” which are pieces of root that grow above the ground in odd and sometimes mysterious shapes. Knees are more common for trees grown in water, and the deeper the water, the taller the knees. Some knees reach a height of 6 feet. Although no one is sure about the function of knees, they may help the tree get oxygen when they are underwater. These projections are sometimes unwelcome in the home landscape because they make mowing difficult and they can trip passers-by.
Where Cypress Trees Grow
Both types of cypress trees grow well in areas with lots of water. Bald cypress grows naturally near springs, on lake banks, in swamps or in bodies of water that flow at a slow to moderate rate. In cultivated landscapes, you can grow them in almost any soil. Pond cypress prefers still water and doesn’t grow well on land. This variety is rarely used in home landscapes because it needs boggy soil that is low in both nutrients and oxygen. It grows naturally in Southeastern wetlands, including the Everglades.
How to Care for Cypress Trees
Growing cypress trees successfully depends on planting the in the right location. Choose a site with full sun or partial shade and rich, acid soil. Cypress trees are hardy is USDA zones 5 through 10. Drench the soil around the tree after planting and cover the root zone with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch. Give the tree a good soaking every week for the first few months. Cypress trees need water most in spring when they enter a growth spurt and in fall just before they go dormant. They can withstand occasional drought once established, but it’s best to water them if you haven’t had a drenching rain for more than a month.
Wait a year after planting before fertilizing a cypress tree for the first time. Cypress trees growing in a regularly fertilized lawn don’t generally need additional fertilizer once established. Otherwise, fertilize the tree every year or two with a balanced fertilizer or a thin layer of compost in fall. Spread a pound of balanced fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter over an area approximately equal to the spread of the canopy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Can I grow coleus indoors? Sure, why not? Although coleus is typically grown outdoors as an annual, its vibrant leaves provide many months of enjoyment indoors if growing conditions are just right. In fact, coleus plants respond well to potted environments. Read on to learn more about growing coleus as an indoor plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Native grasses are perfect for the back forty or open landscape. They have had centuries to create adaptive processes that make the most of the existing environment. That means they are already suited for the climate, soils and region and require less maintenance. American beachgrass is found in the Atlantic and Great Lakes coastlines. Planting beachgrass in gardens with dry, sandy and even salty soils provides erosion control, movement and ease of care.
About American Beachgrass
Beachgrass is found from Newfoundland to North Carolina. The plant is in the grass family and produces spreading rhizomes, which allow the plant to entrench itself and help stabilize soils. It is considered a dune grass and thrives in dry, salty soil with little nutrient base. In fact, the plant thrives in seaside gardens. Using beachgrass for landscaping in areas with similar environmental situations protects important habitat and delicate hills and dunes. It can spread 6 to 10 feet in a year but only grows 2 feet tall. The roots of American beachgrass are edible and have been used as a supplemental food supply by indigenous peoples. The grass produces a spikelet that rises 10 inches above the plant in July to August.
Growing Beachgrass
October to March is the best time for planting beachgrass in gardens. Seedlings have difficulty establishing when temperatures are too hot and conditions are too dry. Establishment is usually from plugs planted 8 inches below the surface of the soil in clusters of two or more culms. Spacing of 18 inches apart requires nearly 39,000 culms per acre. Erosion control planting is done at a closer range of 12 inches apart per plant. Seeds germinate unreliably so sowing is not recommended when growing beachgrass. Never harvest wild grasses from natural environments. Use reliable commercial supplies for starter plants to prevent damage to existing dunes and wild areas. The plants do not tolerate foot traffic, so fencing is a good idea until the starts mature. Stagger the planting for a more natural effect with several inches between each culm.
Beachgrass Care
Some growers swear by fertilizing in the first spring and annually with a nitrogen rich plant food. Apply at a rate of 1.4 pounds per 1,000 square feet 30 days after planting date and then once per month during the growing season. A formula of 15-10-10 is appropriate for American beachgrass. Once the plants have matured, they need half the amount of fertilizer and only sparse water. Seedlings do need evenly applied moisture and protection from wind and foot or other traffic. Be careful, however, as soggy soils will cause the plant to decline. Beachgrass care and maintenance requires no mowing or trimming. Further, plants may be harvested from mature stands by separating the culms. Try beachgrass for landscaping in low nutrient areas and enjoy the coastal ambiance and easy beachgrass care.
About American Beachgrass
Beachgrass is found from Newfoundland to North Carolina. The plant is in the grass family and produces spreading rhizomes, which allow the plant to entrench itself and help stabilize soils. It is considered a dune grass and thrives in dry, salty soil with little nutrient base. In fact, the plant thrives in seaside gardens. Using beachgrass for landscaping in areas with similar environmental situations protects important habitat and delicate hills and dunes. It can spread 6 to 10 feet in a year but only grows 2 feet tall. The roots of American beachgrass are edible and have been used as a supplemental food supply by indigenous peoples. The grass produces a spikelet that rises 10 inches above the plant in July to August.
Growing Beachgrass
October to March is the best time for planting beachgrass in gardens. Seedlings have difficulty establishing when temperatures are too hot and conditions are too dry. Establishment is usually from plugs planted 8 inches below the surface of the soil in clusters of two or more culms. Spacing of 18 inches apart requires nearly 39,000 culms per acre. Erosion control planting is done at a closer range of 12 inches apart per plant. Seeds germinate unreliably so sowing is not recommended when growing beachgrass. Never harvest wild grasses from natural environments. Use reliable commercial supplies for starter plants to prevent damage to existing dunes and wild areas. The plants do not tolerate foot traffic, so fencing is a good idea until the starts mature. Stagger the planting for a more natural effect with several inches between each culm.
Beachgrass Care
Some growers swear by fertilizing in the first spring and annually with a nitrogen rich plant food. Apply at a rate of 1.4 pounds per 1,000 square feet 30 days after planting date and then once per month during the growing season. A formula of 15-10-10 is appropriate for American beachgrass. Once the plants have matured, they need half the amount of fertilizer and only sparse water. Seedlings do need evenly applied moisture and protection from wind and foot or other traffic. Be careful, however, as soggy soils will cause the plant to decline. Beachgrass care and maintenance requires no mowing or trimming. Further, plants may be harvested from mature stands by separating the culms. Try beachgrass for landscaping in low nutrient areas and enjoy the coastal ambiance and easy beachgrass care.
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