成长记
choya8684
2018年09月09日
8/15 士童有部份發橘塌陷且範圍慢慢擴大，於是把橘色部分切掉，待傷口乾種回，終於救回來
9/2 收獲種子9顆
9/8 與蘆薈、紫龍角、仙人掌和蕾絲公主小苗併盆
9/2 收獲種子9顆
9/8 與蘆薈、紫龍角、仙人掌和蕾絲公主小苗併盆
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Hindu rope plants (Hoya carnosa "Krinkle Kurl") earned their common name with their 12- to 15-inch-long stems, which have a pendulous habit, like a length of rope. Usually grown as houseplants, they will also survive outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11. Hindu rope plants look best and live longer when provided with regular care year-round, but those care requirements vary according to the season.
Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter.
Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture.
Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides.
Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter.
Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture.
Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides.
Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Dracaena corn plants (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana') belong within the family Agavaceae. This evergreen, perennial shrub thrives outdoors in frost-free areas of the United States. Plants grow slowly, reaching up to 15 feet tall at maturity. Sword-like leaves reach up to 1 foot long and grow in bunches at the top of tall trunks, or canes. Plumes of fragrant white flowers bloom periodically year-round. Plants are suitable used as specimens, houseplants, or grown in containers or planters. Gardeners can prune corn plants to control its size, or start new plants from the cuttings.
Step 1
Wipe the blades of loppers or pruning shears off with a cloth dipped in alcohol or bleach to sterilize pruning tools before cutting the corn plant. This kills any bacteria or diseases on the blades that can infect the corn plant through the fresh cut.
Step 2
Trim off green branches or shoots using pruning shears, if doing a light pruning to the corn plant. Cut off the branch at the desired location, or flush with the trunk. The branch will sprout two to three new stems in cuts not made flush to the trunk or cane.
Step 3
Trim through thick cane sections using loppers. Select the area on the corn plant's trunk you desire to cut it back to and slice through the area using loppers. Two to three new branches will develop where you made the cut.
Step 4
Prune off a trunk or cane flush to the ground, if pruning away multiple trunks. Cut the cane off using loppers and pile soil on top of the cut so it does not sprout back. Use this method if you desire a single-trunk corn plant, or desire to eliminate a trunk.
Step 5
Trim off plumes of spent blossoms. Use pruning shears and trim the dead flower section back to the foliage.
Step 1
Wipe the blades of loppers or pruning shears off with a cloth dipped in alcohol or bleach to sterilize pruning tools before cutting the corn plant. This kills any bacteria or diseases on the blades that can infect the corn plant through the fresh cut.
Step 2
Trim off green branches or shoots using pruning shears, if doing a light pruning to the corn plant. Cut off the branch at the desired location, or flush with the trunk. The branch will sprout two to three new stems in cuts not made flush to the trunk or cane.
Step 3
Trim through thick cane sections using loppers. Select the area on the corn plant's trunk you desire to cut it back to and slice through the area using loppers. Two to three new branches will develop where you made the cut.
Step 4
Prune off a trunk or cane flush to the ground, if pruning away multiple trunks. Cut the cane off using loppers and pile soil on top of the cut so it does not sprout back. Use this method if you desire a single-trunk corn plant, or desire to eliminate a trunk.
Step 5
Trim off plumes of spent blossoms. Use pruning shears and trim the dead flower section back to the foliage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
A ripe rind is one sign a butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) is ready to pick, and there are other signs. An annual winter squash vine, butternut squash grows 3/4 to 1 1/2 feet tall with a vine 10 to 15 feet long. Creamy-white to orange-yellow flowers appear in late spring and orange-fleshed fruits develop, which ripen in fall. Changes in the vine and changes in the color and texture of the fruit are some signs to look for that tell you butternut squash is ready for harvesting.
Days From Sowing
Providing severe weather conditions such as drought or prolonged cold temperatures don't occur, butternut squash fruits ripen a predictable number of days after sowing. In regular growing conditions, it takes 80 to 100 days after the seed was sown.
Drought stresses plants, and may speed up ripening. However, cold weather slows down butternut squash growth, and then fruit may ripen later than expected.
Vine Condition
When butternut squash fruits are ready for picking, the vine has done its job. It stops growing and begins to die back. If your butternut squash vine stops producing new shoots and leaves, and the existing leaves begin to yellow and wilt, the fruit is probably nearly ripe.
Skin Appearance
Butternut squash skin is light whitish-green, smooth and shiny while the fruit is growing. As they ripen, the fruits turn deep tan and become dull and dry.
Skin Texture
A change in skin texture is another sign of ripeness in butternut squash. Slightly soft when the fruit is growing, butternut squash skin becomes very tough when the fruit is ripe.
Harvest Time
When butternut squash fruit are ready to harvest, cut the stems with pruning shears or a sharp knife.
Cut the squash stems 1 inch from the fruit, and put them in a cool, dark, dry place. Don't allow the fruit to touch each other. Store the squash at 50 degrees Fahrenheit and 50 to 75 percent humidity and it will keep for two to three months. Check the fruit every one or two weeks, and remove and discard any that look diseased or have begun to decay.
Days From Sowing
Providing severe weather conditions such as drought or prolonged cold temperatures don't occur, butternut squash fruits ripen a predictable number of days after sowing. In regular growing conditions, it takes 80 to 100 days after the seed was sown.
Drought stresses plants, and may speed up ripening. However, cold weather slows down butternut squash growth, and then fruit may ripen later than expected.
Vine Condition
When butternut squash fruits are ready for picking, the vine has done its job. It stops growing and begins to die back. If your butternut squash vine stops producing new shoots and leaves, and the existing leaves begin to yellow and wilt, the fruit is probably nearly ripe.
Skin Appearance
Butternut squash skin is light whitish-green, smooth and shiny while the fruit is growing. As they ripen, the fruits turn deep tan and become dull and dry.
Skin Texture
A change in skin texture is another sign of ripeness in butternut squash. Slightly soft when the fruit is growing, butternut squash skin becomes very tough when the fruit is ripe.
Harvest Time
When butternut squash fruit are ready to harvest, cut the stems with pruning shears or a sharp knife.
Cut the squash stems 1 inch from the fruit, and put them in a cool, dark, dry place. Don't allow the fruit to touch each other. Store the squash at 50 degrees Fahrenheit and 50 to 75 percent humidity and it will keep for two to three months. Check the fruit every one or two weeks, and remove and discard any that look diseased or have begun to decay.
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