文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
The bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia reginae) is a tropical favorite known for its flamboyant birdlike blooms. A South African native, the plant is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. Throughout the rest of the United States, it enjoys widespread popularity as a dependable houseplant. Bird of paradise grows 3 to 5 feet in height and blooms intermittently through the year, creating a colorful focal point in warm-climate gardens.
Grow bird of paradise plants in well-drained, fertile soil in a sunny or partially sunny location. In warm climates, the plant grows and flowers best in partial shade. In sunny locations, bird of paradise grows shorter stems and produces smaller flowers.
Protect bird of paradise plants any time temperatures drop toward freezing. It can survive 30 degree Fahrenheit temperatures, but only for a brief time. In colder climates, grow bird of paradise in a large pot that can be moved inside during cold snaps and wintry weather.
Water bird of paradise consistently, especially when newly planted. New plantings need water every three days for the first six months until they get established. After that, the plant should thrive with normal rainfall and supplemental watering in dry conditions.
Place a layer of mulch around the base of the bird of paradise to conserve moisture and prevent competition from grass and weeds. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the plant's trunk to prevent moisture from accumulating and encouraging rot.
Fertilize bird of paradise every three months during its active growing season of spring and summer. Apply a controlled-release, balanced 14-14-14 fertilizer at a rate of 3 tablespoons per 4 square feet around the plant. Scratch the fertilizer into the soil with a garden fork, and water the area well.
Use insecticides sparingly as bird of paradise plants have few pests. If aphids or grasshoppers are noticed, remove them by hand or use a gentle blast from a hose to remove them. Remove any yellowed or dead leaves that occur through the year.
Divide large clumps of bird of paradise by separating the root ball early in the growth season. Use a garden fork to gently lift the plant and to pull the root ball apart. Plant divisions at the same depth the original grew. Keep them well watered until established.
Grow bird of paradise plants in well-drained, fertile soil in a sunny or partially sunny location. In warm climates, the plant grows and flowers best in partial shade. In sunny locations, bird of paradise grows shorter stems and produces smaller flowers.
Protect bird of paradise plants any time temperatures drop toward freezing. It can survive 30 degree Fahrenheit temperatures, but only for a brief time. In colder climates, grow bird of paradise in a large pot that can be moved inside during cold snaps and wintry weather.
Water bird of paradise consistently, especially when newly planted. New plantings need water every three days for the first six months until they get established. After that, the plant should thrive with normal rainfall and supplemental watering in dry conditions.
Place a layer of mulch around the base of the bird of paradise to conserve moisture and prevent competition from grass and weeds. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the plant's trunk to prevent moisture from accumulating and encouraging rot.
Fertilize bird of paradise every three months during its active growing season of spring and summer. Apply a controlled-release, balanced 14-14-14 fertilizer at a rate of 3 tablespoons per 4 square feet around the plant. Scratch the fertilizer into the soil with a garden fork, and water the area well.
Use insecticides sparingly as bird of paradise plants have few pests. If aphids or grasshoppers are noticed, remove them by hand or use a gentle blast from a hose to remove them. Remove any yellowed or dead leaves that occur through the year.
Divide large clumps of bird of paradise by separating the root ball early in the growth season. Use a garden fork to gently lift the plant and to pull the root ball apart. Plant divisions at the same depth the original grew. Keep them well watered until established.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Hindu rope plants (Hoya carnosa "Krinkle Kurl") earned their common name with their 12- to 15-inch-long stems, which have a pendulous habit, like a length of rope. Usually grown as houseplants, they will also survive outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11. Hindu rope plants look best and live longer when provided with regular care year-round, but those care requirements vary according to the season.
Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter.
Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture.
Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides.
Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter.
Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture.
Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides.
Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Lantana plants are evergreen shrubs or stemmed perennials that are members of the verbena family. There are over 150 varieties of lantana that are native to the warmer areas of the Americas and Africa. They are perennials in zones 9b to 12 but are often grown as annuals in colder zones. Lantana requires full sun to thrive and is known for its prolific blooms and the bees and butterflies it attracts.
When to Plant
Regardless of whether they are being grown as annuals or perennials, lantana thrive in heat and should be planted in the spring at least two weeks after any danger of frost has passed. Once planted, they often will not grow or bloom much until the soil warms up considerably. It is important that lantana plants have adequate time to establish their root systems if they are being grown as perennials. Otherwise, they will not survive the winter.
Care and Maintenance
Lantana are hardy plants that require very little care and maintenence other than a sunny, hot location and some deadheading to prolong blooming. In some areas, lantana grows so effortlessly that it is considered a noxious weed. This is not only because it can grow invasively but because all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Despite this bad rap, lantana is a mainstay in the garden because it blooms prolifically yet needs very little attention. The plant is drought hardy, requiring only weekly watering when it is blooming. Occasional trimming back encourages a bushier plant and more blooms. After trimming, a light application of fertilizer can help lantana continue to thrive.
If lantana is being grown as a perennial, do not cut it back hard in the fall, as this will compromise its ability to survive. Save hard pruning for spring, when plants should be cut back to 6 to12 inches above ground level and all dead growth and woodiness should be removed.
Problems of Lantana
Powdery mildew is the most common lantana disease; it can be prevented by making sure lantana is planted in full sun. Too much shade will also result in poor blooming.
Too much water, poorly draining soil and overhead watering can cause root rot, so care must be taken to avoid these factors.
Lantana are susceptible to whitefly infestation, mites and lantana lace bugs. Inspect plants frequently for leaf damage or drop. If present, remove affected foliage and apply a commercial insecticide and or fungicide to prevent infestation or infection from spreading.
When to Plant
Regardless of whether they are being grown as annuals or perennials, lantana thrive in heat and should be planted in the spring at least two weeks after any danger of frost has passed. Once planted, they often will not grow or bloom much until the soil warms up considerably. It is important that lantana plants have adequate time to establish their root systems if they are being grown as perennials. Otherwise, they will not survive the winter.
Care and Maintenance
Lantana are hardy plants that require very little care and maintenence other than a sunny, hot location and some deadheading to prolong blooming. In some areas, lantana grows so effortlessly that it is considered a noxious weed. This is not only because it can grow invasively but because all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Despite this bad rap, lantana is a mainstay in the garden because it blooms prolifically yet needs very little attention. The plant is drought hardy, requiring only weekly watering when it is blooming. Occasional trimming back encourages a bushier plant and more blooms. After trimming, a light application of fertilizer can help lantana continue to thrive.
If lantana is being grown as a perennial, do not cut it back hard in the fall, as this will compromise its ability to survive. Save hard pruning for spring, when plants should be cut back to 6 to12 inches above ground level and all dead growth and woodiness should be removed.
Problems of Lantana
Powdery mildew is the most common lantana disease; it can be prevented by making sure lantana is planted in full sun. Too much shade will also result in poor blooming.
Too much water, poorly draining soil and overhead watering can cause root rot, so care must be taken to avoid these factors.
Lantana are susceptible to whitefly infestation, mites and lantana lace bugs. Inspect plants frequently for leaf damage or drop. If present, remove affected foliage and apply a commercial insecticide and or fungicide to prevent infestation or infection from spreading.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
The giant white bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia nicolai) is a cousin to the more commonly seen orange and blue bird of paradise. The 10- to 12-inch white flower has a blue "tongue" and sits inside a purple bract.
Growth Rate
According to the University of Florida, the giant white bird of paradise is a moderate grower. It eventually reaches a height of 20 to 30 feet and a width of 6 to 10 feet, although smaller specimens are commonly seen. The plants will not flower until they are several years old.
Hardiness
Hardy in USDA plant zones 9b through 11, the giant white bird of paradise is slightly hardier than its orange cousin. It can also handle drought and salt, making it a good accent plant near pools or the ocean.
Growing Strelitzia Nicolai
Full sun and warm temperatures work best for giant white bird of paradise. If grown as container plants, they need to be brought inside when outdoor temperatures drop to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Plants need to be fertilized every two weeks in spring and weekly in summer for best flowering.
Growth Rate
According to the University of Florida, the giant white bird of paradise is a moderate grower. It eventually reaches a height of 20 to 30 feet and a width of 6 to 10 feet, although smaller specimens are commonly seen. The plants will not flower until they are several years old.
Hardiness
Hardy in USDA plant zones 9b through 11, the giant white bird of paradise is slightly hardier than its orange cousin. It can also handle drought and salt, making it a good accent plant near pools or the ocean.
Growing Strelitzia Nicolai
Full sun and warm temperatures work best for giant white bird of paradise. If grown as container plants, they need to be brought inside when outdoor temperatures drop to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Plants need to be fertilized every two weeks in spring and weekly in summer for best flowering.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Bleeding heart (Clerodendrum thomsoniae) prefers warm, humid conditions, making Florida's weather conditions optimal. It is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 12, acting like a perennial in Central and South Florida. North Florida plants will die to the ground during frosts and freezes, but they will resprout in spring. The evergreen shrub has a vine-like habit, growing up to 15 feet tall. Bleeding heart has red and white bell-like flowers, blooming from spring through summer.
Growing Outside
Step 1
Remove weeds from a planting site located in partial shade with well-drained soil. Pull or rake the vegetation from the planting bed. If using an herbicide to kill the vegetation, do not use a product that has long-term effects to the soil, as it may kill the bleeding heart.
Step 2
Amend the planting site with peat, manure or compost, as the majority of Florida soil is sandy, lacking organic nutrients. Work the organic material into the planting area's soil to a depth of approximately 6 to 8 inches.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide as the bleeding heart's root ball and as deep as it is presently growing. Place the root ball into the hole and backfill with soil. Firm the soil around the plant by patting it down with your hands.
Step 4
Install a trellis approximately 6 inches behind the bleeding heart, giving it something to grow on, if growing the plant as a vine. Push the trellis legs into the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches. Bleeding heart has a twining growth habit, instead of forming tendrils that hold onto the trellis or arbor.
Step 5
Water the bleeding heart immediately after planting, saturating the roots, and water regularly. Plants perform best in moist, well-drained soils. If your area of Florida is suffering drought conditions, water approximately three times weekly to keep the soil moist.
Step 6
Prune bleeding hearts to control their size, shape and make them bushier. If growing plants as a shrub, regular pruning will make them branch out instead of being more vine-like.
Step 7
Protect bleeding heart plants if your winter temperatures become cold, as the plants are cold tolerant to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover plants with cloth coverings and water well before the frosty weather arrives.
Growing Inside Containers
Step 1
Fill a hanging basket or other container half full with a well-draining, rich, potting medium. Using containers that do not drain will cause the soil to be overly saturated and the bleeding heart will develop root rot and die.
Step 2
Remove the bleeding heart from its container and place inside the new container. Fill with soil and pack down around the plant using your hands, firming it up.
Step 3
Water the container after planting the bleeding heart, allowing water to run from the bottom. Water the plant every other day if necessary, as containerized soil dries out quickly. Stick your finger into the container's soil and if the top 1 to 2 inches are dry, apply water.
Step 4
Situate the container or hanging basket in an area that receives partial sun throughout the day.
Step 5
Bring the hanging basket or container indoors to a warm location if winter temperatures turn cold. Return the bleeding heart to its outdoor location once warm, spring weather returns.
Growing Outside
Step 1
Remove weeds from a planting site located in partial shade with well-drained soil. Pull or rake the vegetation from the planting bed. If using an herbicide to kill the vegetation, do not use a product that has long-term effects to the soil, as it may kill the bleeding heart.
Step 2
Amend the planting site with peat, manure or compost, as the majority of Florida soil is sandy, lacking organic nutrients. Work the organic material into the planting area's soil to a depth of approximately 6 to 8 inches.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide as the bleeding heart's root ball and as deep as it is presently growing. Place the root ball into the hole and backfill with soil. Firm the soil around the plant by patting it down with your hands.
Step 4
Install a trellis approximately 6 inches behind the bleeding heart, giving it something to grow on, if growing the plant as a vine. Push the trellis legs into the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches. Bleeding heart has a twining growth habit, instead of forming tendrils that hold onto the trellis or arbor.
Step 5
Water the bleeding heart immediately after planting, saturating the roots, and water regularly. Plants perform best in moist, well-drained soils. If your area of Florida is suffering drought conditions, water approximately three times weekly to keep the soil moist.
Step 6
Prune bleeding hearts to control their size, shape and make them bushier. If growing plants as a shrub, regular pruning will make them branch out instead of being more vine-like.
Step 7
Protect bleeding heart plants if your winter temperatures become cold, as the plants are cold tolerant to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover plants with cloth coverings and water well before the frosty weather arrives.
Growing Inside Containers
Step 1
Fill a hanging basket or other container half full with a well-draining, rich, potting medium. Using containers that do not drain will cause the soil to be overly saturated and the bleeding heart will develop root rot and die.
Step 2
Remove the bleeding heart from its container and place inside the new container. Fill with soil and pack down around the plant using your hands, firming it up.
Step 3
Water the container after planting the bleeding heart, allowing water to run from the bottom. Water the plant every other day if necessary, as containerized soil dries out quickly. Stick your finger into the container's soil and if the top 1 to 2 inches are dry, apply water.
Step 4
Situate the container or hanging basket in an area that receives partial sun throughout the day.
Step 5
Bring the hanging basket or container indoors to a warm location if winter temperatures turn cold. Return the bleeding heart to its outdoor location once warm, spring weather returns.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Amstel Series begonias (Begonia x Hiemalis Amstel Series) have a mounding form, typically reaching about 12 inches tall. They usually bloom continuously throughout the growing season. The members of this series belong to the group called Rieger begonias, which were developed by crossing a tuberous begonia with a wax begonia.
Amstel begonias grow as perennials outdoors only in the frost-free climates in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, but you can treat them as annuals or grow them as houseplants elsewhere.
Where to Plant
Amstel begonias are relatively tolerant of heat and can grow in a variety of light conditions, but do best in a spot that receives sunlight filtered through leaves or that is otherwise partially shaded.
Watering
Amstel begonias need consistent moisture, but won't tolerate soggy, saturated soils. Monitor the soil's moisture level carefully, and water so the soil doesn't dry out completely but is never waterlogged. If you're growing your begonias in pots or containers, make sure the containers have drainage holes and are never left sitting in standing water.
Fertilizer
Amstel begonias benefit from a monthly application of fertilizer to help them to continue to bloom prolifically through the season. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of water-soluble 15-30-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and use the solution to water the plant. Apply it at the base of the plant, and avoid getting the fertilizer on the plant's leaves and stems.
Pruning
Over the course of the season, Amstel begonias may get leggy or have a ragged in appearance. If this happens, prune or pinch the stems back so that they contain three to five growth nodes. The plants will rebound from this severe pruning and should start to bloom again in a week or two.
Removing wilted flowers promptly will encourage the plant to put its energy into new flowers and will help ensure it keeps blooming vigorously.
If you use pruners to maintain the plant, dip the blades in isopropyl alcohol after each cut to help prevent the spread of diseases.
Pests and Diseases
Amstel begonias are resistant to most pests and diseases and should be problem-free given good growing conditions. To prevent fungal infections, such as powdery mildew, avoid getting the leaves wet when you're watering and space the plants 12 to 15 inches apart so that there is plenty air circulation around the plants.
Amstel begonias grow as perennials outdoors only in the frost-free climates in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, but you can treat them as annuals or grow them as houseplants elsewhere.
Where to Plant
Amstel begonias are relatively tolerant of heat and can grow in a variety of light conditions, but do best in a spot that receives sunlight filtered through leaves or that is otherwise partially shaded.
Watering
Amstel begonias need consistent moisture, but won't tolerate soggy, saturated soils. Monitor the soil's moisture level carefully, and water so the soil doesn't dry out completely but is never waterlogged. If you're growing your begonias in pots or containers, make sure the containers have drainage holes and are never left sitting in standing water.
Fertilizer
Amstel begonias benefit from a monthly application of fertilizer to help them to continue to bloom prolifically through the season. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of water-soluble 15-30-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and use the solution to water the plant. Apply it at the base of the plant, and avoid getting the fertilizer on the plant's leaves and stems.
Pruning
Over the course of the season, Amstel begonias may get leggy or have a ragged in appearance. If this happens, prune or pinch the stems back so that they contain three to five growth nodes. The plants will rebound from this severe pruning and should start to bloom again in a week or two.
Removing wilted flowers promptly will encourage the plant to put its energy into new flowers and will help ensure it keeps blooming vigorously.
If you use pruners to maintain the plant, dip the blades in isopropyl alcohol after each cut to help prevent the spread of diseases.
Pests and Diseases
Amstel begonias are resistant to most pests and diseases and should be problem-free given good growing conditions. To prevent fungal infections, such as powdery mildew, avoid getting the leaves wet when you're watering and space the plants 12 to 15 inches apart so that there is plenty air circulation around the plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月05日
Grow a container of astilbe (Astilbe spp.), also called false spirea, for a splash of color in a shade garden or on a shady or partly sunny porch or patio. These plants grow anywhere from 6 to 36 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide, so you can find the right fit whether you want a compact variety for a small pot or a sprawling cultivar in a large planter. Astilbe grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, with some variation depending species or cultivar.
Varieties for Containers
You can grow tall varieties for height in patio planters or pick one of the dwarf types for a more compact look.
Compact Cultivars to Grow in Pots
Chinese astilbe 'Pumila' (_Astilbe chinensis_ 'Pumila') grows just 7 to 9 inches tall in part shade to full sun. This cultivar has pink flowers and grows in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Chinese astilbe 'Finale' (_Astilbe chinensis _'Finale') is another pink-blooming, 8- to 12-inch-tall cultivar hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This astilbe prefers part shade to full sun.
Dwarf astilbe 'Sprite' (_Astilbe simplicifolia_ 'Sprite') is also a pink-flowering astilbe ideal for even colder climates. It grows 10 to 12 inches tall in USDA zones 3 to 8.
Full-Size Varieties for Containers
The 'Red Sentinel' cultivar (_Astilbe japonica_ 'Red Sentinel') is a striking, bright-red astilbe that grows 24 inches tall in full shade to full sun. It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This sprawling cultivar grows 18 to 24 inches wide, making it ideal for large patio planters and half-barrel planters.
The hybrid cultivar 'Bridal Veil' (_Astilbe x arendsii _'Bridal Veil (Brautschler)') is a sprawling white-flowering cultivar that grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It grows in part shade to full sun and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8.
Find the Right Container
Three things to consider when picking out a pot for astilbe are size, drainage and material:
Look for a planter 16 inches or more around and at least 12 inches deep. Bigger planters, like half barrels and large patio planters, allow you to plant even more astilbe together.
Every container you use must have a drainage hole, and ideally more than one, to allow excess water to escape. Pots without holes in the bottom collect water, drowning the roots over time.
Container material matters. Terra cotta and wood planters allow more air circulation than less porous materials. This helps prevent soggy soil and root rot problems. Metal containers are aesthetically pleasing, but in summer, the excess heat trapped in the metal can overheat the plant roots. Glazed ceramic and plastic work well without getting overly hot but can trap water. If you intend to move the container around, a lighter wood or plastic pot is best.
Potting Soil Solutions
Use a standard quality potting soil to fill the containers and skip the garden soil. If you want to make your own potting soil, try one of these recipes to make a light, porous, well-draining potting mix:
Equal parts peat moss, sand, perlite, compost and composted bark chips.
One part sand, one part perlite and two parts peat moss.
Equal parts pine bark, peat moss and sand.
Light, Water and Fertilizer
Astilbe grow in full shade to sun, depending on the type. Full shade means no direct sunlight, whereas full sun is a spot that gets six hours or more of sun per day. If you're growing a grouping of astilbe together in a large planter, space small varieties 6 inches apart. For larger astilbe, set them 8 to 12 inches apart.
Water when the potting soil dries out 1 inch deep. In general plan to water twice a week, but you may have to water more often in hot weather to keep the soil from drying out and less often in wet weather so that the pots don't get overly saturated. At each session, apply the water slowly until you see it start to leak out the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Fertilize twice a month beginning in the spring when the first new shoots appear. Stop fertilizing through the winter when astilbe go dormant. Use a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer. For each container, use 1 teaspoon of fertilizer mixed with 1 gallon of water.
Varieties for Containers
You can grow tall varieties for height in patio planters or pick one of the dwarf types for a more compact look.
Compact Cultivars to Grow in Pots
Chinese astilbe 'Pumila' (_Astilbe chinensis_ 'Pumila') grows just 7 to 9 inches tall in part shade to full sun. This cultivar has pink flowers and grows in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Chinese astilbe 'Finale' (_Astilbe chinensis _'Finale') is another pink-blooming, 8- to 12-inch-tall cultivar hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This astilbe prefers part shade to full sun.
Dwarf astilbe 'Sprite' (_Astilbe simplicifolia_ 'Sprite') is also a pink-flowering astilbe ideal for even colder climates. It grows 10 to 12 inches tall in USDA zones 3 to 8.
Full-Size Varieties for Containers
The 'Red Sentinel' cultivar (_Astilbe japonica_ 'Red Sentinel') is a striking, bright-red astilbe that grows 24 inches tall in full shade to full sun. It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This sprawling cultivar grows 18 to 24 inches wide, making it ideal for large patio planters and half-barrel planters.
The hybrid cultivar 'Bridal Veil' (_Astilbe x arendsii _'Bridal Veil (Brautschler)') is a sprawling white-flowering cultivar that grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It grows in part shade to full sun and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8.
Find the Right Container
Three things to consider when picking out a pot for astilbe are size, drainage and material:
Look for a planter 16 inches or more around and at least 12 inches deep. Bigger planters, like half barrels and large patio planters, allow you to plant even more astilbe together.
Every container you use must have a drainage hole, and ideally more than one, to allow excess water to escape. Pots without holes in the bottom collect water, drowning the roots over time.
Container material matters. Terra cotta and wood planters allow more air circulation than less porous materials. This helps prevent soggy soil and root rot problems. Metal containers are aesthetically pleasing, but in summer, the excess heat trapped in the metal can overheat the plant roots. Glazed ceramic and plastic work well without getting overly hot but can trap water. If you intend to move the container around, a lighter wood or plastic pot is best.
Potting Soil Solutions
Use a standard quality potting soil to fill the containers and skip the garden soil. If you want to make your own potting soil, try one of these recipes to make a light, porous, well-draining potting mix:
Equal parts peat moss, sand, perlite, compost and composted bark chips.
One part sand, one part perlite and two parts peat moss.
Equal parts pine bark, peat moss and sand.
Light, Water and Fertilizer
Astilbe grow in full shade to sun, depending on the type. Full shade means no direct sunlight, whereas full sun is a spot that gets six hours or more of sun per day. If you're growing a grouping of astilbe together in a large planter, space small varieties 6 inches apart. For larger astilbe, set them 8 to 12 inches apart.
Water when the potting soil dries out 1 inch deep. In general plan to water twice a week, but you may have to water more often in hot weather to keep the soil from drying out and less often in wet weather so that the pots don't get overly saturated. At each session, apply the water slowly until you see it start to leak out the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Fertilize twice a month beginning in the spring when the first new shoots appear. Stop fertilizing through the winter when astilbe go dormant. Use a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer. For each container, use 1 teaspoon of fertilizer mixed with 1 gallon of water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月03日
Description: This herbaceous plant is a summer annual. A typical plant is about 6" tall and 12" across; it is abundantly branched at the base, and occasionally branched above. The stems are ascending to sprawling, more or less terete, pale reddish green to reddish purple, and glabrous. Sometimes the stems have vertical stripes that are green alternating with red. Alternate leaves occur along the entire length of each stem; they are ¾–2" long and 6-15 mm. across. The leaves are elliptic-oblong, elliptic, broadly elliptic, or lanceolate; they are shallowly pinnatifid, coarsely dentate, and/or sinuate along their margins. The leaf bases are wedge-shaped, while their tips and lobes (if any) are blunt or acute. The upper leaf surface is medium green or bluish green and glabrous, while the lower leaf surface is white-mealy (farinose). The petioles are up to ½" long, light green to yellowish red, and glabrous. The stems eventually terminate in either spikes or panicles of interrupted clusters of flowers; there are also axillary spikes of flowers that develop from the upper leaves. Individual floral spikes are up to 2" long; there are several small flowers per cluster. Some flowers may have pedicels up to 0.5 mm. long. Each mature flower is about 2 mm. across, consisting of 3-5 greenish sepals, 3-5 stamens, and a pistil with a pair of styles; there are no petals. The sepals are lanceolate to ovate, bluntly tipped, and glabrous; they are either weakly keeled or flat. The stamens are exserted with yellow anthers. The rachises of floral spikes are glabrous.
The blooming period occurs from early summer to early autumn. However, individual plants remain in bloom for about 1 month; only a few flowers bloom at the same time. The flowers are cross-pollinated by the wind. Afterwards, the ovaries of the flowers develop into seeds (a single seed per flower); the orientation of these seeds may be vertical or horizontal. The persistent sepals cover only the edges of these seeds. Individual seeds are 0.5–1 mm. across, globular-flattened in shape, and dark brown to dark reddish brown. Thin membranes cover the seeds; they are easily removed. The root system consists of a shallow taproot with secondary roots that are fibrous. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun, more or less mesic conditions, and soil containing some sand or loose loam. The size of individual plants is variable, depending on soil fertility and moisture conditions. Once the seeds have germinated in late spring, growth and development is rapid.
Range & Habitat: The adventive Oak-leaved Goosefoot is occasional in NE Illinois and uncommon elsewhere in the state (see Distribution Map). This plant is native to Eurasia. Habitats include cropland, gardens, construction sites, areas along railroads, roadsides, barnyards, and waste areas. Habitats with a history of disturbance are preferred, especially when this exposes the topsoil.
Faunal Associations: Various insects feed on the foliage, roots, and other parts of goosefoot species (Chenopodium spp.). These insect feeders include the Three-spotted Flea Beetle (Disonycha triangularis), larvae of the Spinach Leafminer Fly (Pegomya hyoscyami), the Chenopodium Aphid (Hayhurstia atriplicis) and Sugar Beet Root Aphid (Pemphigus betae), the Chenopodium Leafhopper (Norvellina chenopodii), and the larvae of such moths as the Flamboyant Twirler Moth (Chrysoesthia lingulacella), Hollow-spotted Blepharomastix (Blepharomastix ranalis), Chenopodium Scythris Moth (Scythris limbella), Eight-Spot (Amyna octo), Ragweed Borer Moth (Epiblema strenuana), and Morning Glory Plume Moth (Emmelina monodactyla). In addition, the caterpillars of two skippers, the Common Sootywing (Pholisora catullus) and Hayhurst's Scallopwing (Staphylus hayhurstii), also feed on these plants. Among vertebrate animals, upland gamebirds and many songbirds, especially sparrows, eat the seeds of goosefoot species (Martin et al., 1951/1961). The Bird Table provides a list of these species. Some small rodents also eat the seeds, including the Thirteen-lined Ground Squirrel, Prairie Deer Mouse, and White-footed Mouse (Whitaker, 1966). White-tailed Deer browse on the foliage and seedheads of goosefoot species, including Oak-leaved Goosefoot. The seeds of these plants are able to pass through the digestive tract of this animal and remain viable. In this manner, the seeds are dispersed across considerable distances (Myers et al., 2004).
Photographic Location: Along a sidewalk in Urbana, Illinois, where some construction and landscaping activity occurred.
Comments: Oak-leaved Goosefoot (Chenopodium glaucum) can be distinguished from most goosefoot species (Chenopodium spp.) by the shape of its leaves. In addition, the undersides of its leaves are white-mealy, while the rest of the plant is glabrous or nearly so. The flowers of Oak-leaved Goosefoot are also glabrous, and their sepals cover only the margins of the developing ovaries or seeds. Other goosefoot species usually have differently shaped leaves, their flowers are more or less white-mealy, and their sepals cover most of the developing ovaries or seeds. Like other weedy goosefoot species, Oak-leaved Goosefoot has a preference for disturbed habitats with exposed topsoil. It is less erect than most of them, having a tendency to remain relatively low and sprawl across the ground. There is a variety of Oak-leaved Goosefoot, Chenopodium glaucum salinum, that is native to the western United States. It tends to have bluish foliage, while the lobes, teeth, and tips of its leaves are usually more narrow and pointed. There are no records of this variety occurring in Illinois at the present time.
The blooming period occurs from early summer to early autumn. However, individual plants remain in bloom for about 1 month; only a few flowers bloom at the same time. The flowers are cross-pollinated by the wind. Afterwards, the ovaries of the flowers develop into seeds (a single seed per flower); the orientation of these seeds may be vertical or horizontal. The persistent sepals cover only the edges of these seeds. Individual seeds are 0.5–1 mm. across, globular-flattened in shape, and dark brown to dark reddish brown. Thin membranes cover the seeds; they are easily removed. The root system consists of a shallow taproot with secondary roots that are fibrous. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun, more or less mesic conditions, and soil containing some sand or loose loam. The size of individual plants is variable, depending on soil fertility and moisture conditions. Once the seeds have germinated in late spring, growth and development is rapid.
Range & Habitat: The adventive Oak-leaved Goosefoot is occasional in NE Illinois and uncommon elsewhere in the state (see Distribution Map). This plant is native to Eurasia. Habitats include cropland, gardens, construction sites, areas along railroads, roadsides, barnyards, and waste areas. Habitats with a history of disturbance are preferred, especially when this exposes the topsoil.
Faunal Associations: Various insects feed on the foliage, roots, and other parts of goosefoot species (Chenopodium spp.). These insect feeders include the Three-spotted Flea Beetle (Disonycha triangularis), larvae of the Spinach Leafminer Fly (Pegomya hyoscyami), the Chenopodium Aphid (Hayhurstia atriplicis) and Sugar Beet Root Aphid (Pemphigus betae), the Chenopodium Leafhopper (Norvellina chenopodii), and the larvae of such moths as the Flamboyant Twirler Moth (Chrysoesthia lingulacella), Hollow-spotted Blepharomastix (Blepharomastix ranalis), Chenopodium Scythris Moth (Scythris limbella), Eight-Spot (Amyna octo), Ragweed Borer Moth (Epiblema strenuana), and Morning Glory Plume Moth (Emmelina monodactyla). In addition, the caterpillars of two skippers, the Common Sootywing (Pholisora catullus) and Hayhurst's Scallopwing (Staphylus hayhurstii), also feed on these plants. Among vertebrate animals, upland gamebirds and many songbirds, especially sparrows, eat the seeds of goosefoot species (Martin et al., 1951/1961). The Bird Table provides a list of these species. Some small rodents also eat the seeds, including the Thirteen-lined Ground Squirrel, Prairie Deer Mouse, and White-footed Mouse (Whitaker, 1966). White-tailed Deer browse on the foliage and seedheads of goosefoot species, including Oak-leaved Goosefoot. The seeds of these plants are able to pass through the digestive tract of this animal and remain viable. In this manner, the seeds are dispersed across considerable distances (Myers et al., 2004).
Photographic Location: Along a sidewalk in Urbana, Illinois, where some construction and landscaping activity occurred.
Comments: Oak-leaved Goosefoot (Chenopodium glaucum) can be distinguished from most goosefoot species (Chenopodium spp.) by the shape of its leaves. In addition, the undersides of its leaves are white-mealy, while the rest of the plant is glabrous or nearly so. The flowers of Oak-leaved Goosefoot are also glabrous, and their sepals cover only the margins of the developing ovaries or seeds. Other goosefoot species usually have differently shaped leaves, their flowers are more or less white-mealy, and their sepals cover most of the developing ovaries or seeds. Like other weedy goosefoot species, Oak-leaved Goosefoot has a preference for disturbed habitats with exposed topsoil. It is less erect than most of them, having a tendency to remain relatively low and sprawl across the ground. There is a variety of Oak-leaved Goosefoot, Chenopodium glaucum salinum, that is native to the western United States. It tends to have bluish foliage, while the lobes, teeth, and tips of its leaves are usually more narrow and pointed. There are no records of this variety occurring in Illinois at the present time.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月02日
Purple sage (Salvia leucophylla) is an evergreen plant that typically grows 3 to 6 feet tall, though some individual specimens have been known to reach 12 feet tall and 12 feet wide. Purple sage shrubs have aromatic gray-green vegetation, an attractive, airy form and fragrant lavender-pink blooms. They thrive in full sun but need no water once established, which makes them ideal for drought-tolerant landscaping. Plants also tolerate freezing temperatures. This distant relative of culinary sage is best pruned minimally, to support general plant health and encourage optimal flowering in the landscape.
Step 1
Prune purple sage only with a purpose, because any unnecessary trimming will only diminish the amount of attractive, fragrant flowers.
Step 2
Make major pruning cuts only when purple sage is dormant, near the end of the winter when the coldest temperatures have passed.
Step 3
Assess the shrub and its condition thoroughly before making any additional pruning cuts. First cut off dead, diseased or otherwise damaged branches and stems.
Step 4
Stand back to study the plant's symmetry and general proportions, walking all the way around if necessary. Make your next cuts to enhance overall balance.
Step 5
Trim lightly to remove dead branches and stems -- or to make corrective cuts you may have missed earlier -- at any time during the year.
Step 6
Deadhead spent purple sage flowers for a neater look if desired, but this isn't absolutely necessary because dried flowers look fine too -- and leaving them gives seeds a chance to develop and disperse.
Step 1
Prune purple sage only with a purpose, because any unnecessary trimming will only diminish the amount of attractive, fragrant flowers.
Step 2
Make major pruning cuts only when purple sage is dormant, near the end of the winter when the coldest temperatures have passed.
Step 3
Assess the shrub and its condition thoroughly before making any additional pruning cuts. First cut off dead, diseased or otherwise damaged branches and stems.
Step 4
Stand back to study the plant's symmetry and general proportions, walking all the way around if necessary. Make your next cuts to enhance overall balance.
Step 5
Trim lightly to remove dead branches and stems -- or to make corrective cuts you may have missed earlier -- at any time during the year.
Step 6
Deadhead spent purple sage flowers for a neater look if desired, but this isn't absolutely necessary because dried flowers look fine too -- and leaving them gives seeds a chance to develop and disperse.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月01日
Description: This perennial herbaceous plant consists of a tuft of decumbent leafy stems about 4-12" tall and similarly across. The stems are light green, terete, and more or less covered with short white-woolly hairs; they branch occasionally. Alternate leaves occur along these stems that are ½–2" long and ½–1" across; most of these leaves are located close to the ground where the lower stems sprawl. The leaves are deeply bipinnatifid or tripinnatifid and rather irregular in their branching patterns; their ultimate leaf segments are linear-filiform and short. The leaves are light-medium green and sparsely to moderately covered with very short white-woolly hairs. Solitary flowerheads about ½–1" across are produced from long peduncles up to 6" long. The peduncles are light green, terete, and more or less covered with short white-woolly hairs. Underneath the flowerheads, however, the peduncles become more swollen, slightly furrowed, and more densely covered with white-woolly hairs. Each flowerhead consists of 10-20 ray florets surrounding numerous disk florets; the disk florets are arranged together in a hemispheric head that has a solid interior. The ray florets are pistillate and fertile, while the disk florets are perfect and fertile. The petaloid rays of the flowerheads are white, broadly oblong-elliptic in shape, and widely spreading; their tips have 1-2 small notches.
The corollas of the disk florets are 2-3 mm. long, narrowly tubular in shape, and yellow; they have 5 spreading lobes at their apices. Between the corollas of the disk florets, there are chaffy scales; these scales are white-membranous along their margins and oblong in shape with rounded erose (somewhat frayed) tips. Around the base of each flowerhead, there are phyllaries (floral bracts) in several overlapping and appressed series that together form a shallow saucer-like shape. The phyllaries are lanceolate-oblong with blunt tips, light green with white-membranous margins, and more or less covered with short white-woolly hairs. The blooming period occurs during the summer and early autumn for 1½–3 months. Afterwards, fertile florets are replaced by small achenes about 1–1.5 mm. long. These achenes are oblongoid in shape, pale-colored, and slightly flattened or 3-angled; each achene has 3 filiform ribs on one side. The root system is fibrous, rhizomatous, and relatively shallow. This plant can spread by reseeding itself or by forming clonal offsets from the short rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil consisting of either loam or sandy loam. This plant is easy to cultivate and it occasionally spreads into adjacent areas.
Range & Habitat: Roman Chamomile has rarely naturalized in Illinois and thus far wild populations have been reported from only a few counties (see Distribution Map). Roman Chamomile is native to western Europe and it was introduced into North America as an ornamental and herbal plant for gardens. In North America, naturalized populations of this plant are found primarily in urban areas, including such habitats as areas near gardens, lawns, grassy roadsides, vacant lots, and construction sites. In Europe, it has been found in such habitats as grassy roadsides, sandy lawns in commons areas, and sandy pastures. Roman Chamomile is still cultivated in flower and herbal gardens, from where it occasionally escapes, but rarely persists. Areas with a history of disturbance are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowerheads probably attract small bees and various flies; wasps and beetles may visit the flowerheads to a lesser extent. Two aphids, Macrosiphoniella tanacetaria and Macrosiphoniella tapuskae, are known to feed on Roman Chamomile (Blackman & Eastop, 2013). A polyphagous leafhopper, Empoasca erigeron, also feeds on this plant (Dmitriev & Dietrich, 2010). At the present time, information about this plant's relationships with granivorous birds and herbivorous mammals is unavailable.
Photographic Location: An ornamental garden at the Urbana Public Library of Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: There are several species of plants in the Aster family that have daisy-like flowerheads with white petaloid rays. Many of these species have been introduced into North America from Eurasia as garden plants, including Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Roman Chamomile can be distinguished from most of these species by its highly fragrant foliage and crushed flowerheads, which have an apple-pineapple scent. One other species in this group that has naturalized in Illinois, German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomile), also has foliage and crushed flowerheads with a similar fruity scent. German Chamomile can be readily distinguished by its glabrous foliage, more erect habit, the hollow interior of its flowerheads, and the lack of chaffy scales between the disk florets. This latter plant is also an annual, rather than a perennial. Both of these species have been used as ingredients in Chamomile tea, and the chemical constituents of their flowerheads are said to have relaxing and soothing properties. An alternative scientific name for Roman Chamomile is Anthemis nobilis, and it has other common names, including Low Chamomile, English Chamomile, and Garden Chamomile.
The corollas of the disk florets are 2-3 mm. long, narrowly tubular in shape, and yellow; they have 5 spreading lobes at their apices. Between the corollas of the disk florets, there are chaffy scales; these scales are white-membranous along their margins and oblong in shape with rounded erose (somewhat frayed) tips. Around the base of each flowerhead, there are phyllaries (floral bracts) in several overlapping and appressed series that together form a shallow saucer-like shape. The phyllaries are lanceolate-oblong with blunt tips, light green with white-membranous margins, and more or less covered with short white-woolly hairs. The blooming period occurs during the summer and early autumn for 1½–3 months. Afterwards, fertile florets are replaced by small achenes about 1–1.5 mm. long. These achenes are oblongoid in shape, pale-colored, and slightly flattened or 3-angled; each achene has 3 filiform ribs on one side. The root system is fibrous, rhizomatous, and relatively shallow. This plant can spread by reseeding itself or by forming clonal offsets from the short rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil consisting of either loam or sandy loam. This plant is easy to cultivate and it occasionally spreads into adjacent areas.
Range & Habitat: Roman Chamomile has rarely naturalized in Illinois and thus far wild populations have been reported from only a few counties (see Distribution Map). Roman Chamomile is native to western Europe and it was introduced into North America as an ornamental and herbal plant for gardens. In North America, naturalized populations of this plant are found primarily in urban areas, including such habitats as areas near gardens, lawns, grassy roadsides, vacant lots, and construction sites. In Europe, it has been found in such habitats as grassy roadsides, sandy lawns in commons areas, and sandy pastures. Roman Chamomile is still cultivated in flower and herbal gardens, from where it occasionally escapes, but rarely persists. Areas with a history of disturbance are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowerheads probably attract small bees and various flies; wasps and beetles may visit the flowerheads to a lesser extent. Two aphids, Macrosiphoniella tanacetaria and Macrosiphoniella tapuskae, are known to feed on Roman Chamomile (Blackman & Eastop, 2013). A polyphagous leafhopper, Empoasca erigeron, also feeds on this plant (Dmitriev & Dietrich, 2010). At the present time, information about this plant's relationships with granivorous birds and herbivorous mammals is unavailable.
Photographic Location: An ornamental garden at the Urbana Public Library of Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: There are several species of plants in the Aster family that have daisy-like flowerheads with white petaloid rays. Many of these species have been introduced into North America from Eurasia as garden plants, including Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Roman Chamomile can be distinguished from most of these species by its highly fragrant foliage and crushed flowerheads, which have an apple-pineapple scent. One other species in this group that has naturalized in Illinois, German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomile), also has foliage and crushed flowerheads with a similar fruity scent. German Chamomile can be readily distinguished by its glabrous foliage, more erect habit, the hollow interior of its flowerheads, and the lack of chaffy scales between the disk florets. This latter plant is also an annual, rather than a perennial. Both of these species have been used as ingredients in Chamomile tea, and the chemical constituents of their flowerheads are said to have relaxing and soothing properties. An alternative scientific name for Roman Chamomile is Anthemis nobilis, and it has other common names, including Low Chamomile, English Chamomile, and Garden Chamomile.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月30日
Description: This herbaceous plant is either a biennial or summer annual (usually the former). It consists initially of a rosette of basal leaves. These basal leaves are 4-12" long and 1¼-4" across; they are lanceolate-pinnatifid or elliptic-pinnatifid with occasional secondary lobes. The margins of these leaves have white to golden yellow spines; larger spines occur at the tips of the primary and secondary lobes, while smaller spines occur along their sides and sinuses. The upper surfaces of the basal leaves are medium green and glabrous, while their lower surfaces are light to medium green and mostly glabrous, except for some short pubescence along the midveins. The petioles of these basal leaves are short and broadly winged. Later, this plant bolts, becoming 1½-6' tall and either unbranched or branched. The lower stem (or stems) tends to be light green and nearly glabrous toward the bottom, becoming increasingly white-tomentose above (white hairs that are appressed and woolly). In addition, the stems are terete and relatively stout; they lack spines, except where extensions of the leaf margins are decurrent. Alternate leaves occur along these stems, becoming gradually smaller as they ascend; they are 2-6" long and ½-1½" across. Alternate leaves are narrowly pinnatifid-lanceolate or narrowly pinnatifid-elliptic in shape. Compared to the lobes of basal leaves, the lobes of alternate leaves are more shallow, although the tips of these latter lobes are still spined. Alternate leaves are sessile; their margins have decurrent extensions along the stems, where they are spiny. The upper stems terminate in individual flowerheads about 1-3" across on long erect peduncles (up to 2' long). These peduncles are terete, stout, and white-tomentose; they are largely naked, except for widely-spaced leafy bracts. The flowerheads often nod to one side. Each flowerhead has 100-1000 disk florets that are narrowly cylindrical below, while above they divide into linear lobes (5 lobes per floret). The corollas of these florets are pink to purplish pink (rarely white); the styles of these florets are strongly exerted. Around the base of each flowerhead, there are relatively large phyllaries in several series. These phyllaries are deltate-ovate in shape; outer phyllaries are ascending, widely spreading, or descending; sometimes they are also recurved. The tips of the phyllaries are stiff and spiny. Immature flowerheads have green phyllaries, but they later become purplish.
The blooming period occurs from early summer into the fall, lasting 1-4 months. The flowerheads are fragrant. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes (4-5 mm. in length) with large tufts of hair. These achenes are bullet-shaped, slightly flattened, and ribbed. The primary hairs that are above these achenes have minute lateral hairs (may require 10x magnification to see). The achenes are distributed primarily by the wind. The root system develops a fleshy taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic conditions, and calcareous soil that is derived from either limestone or sand. However, Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) will adapt to almost any soil that is not extremely acidic. The size of individual plants can vary considerably depending on soil fertility and moisture levels. This thistle can reseed itself aggressively and become invasive. The seeds can remain viable for 3 or more years.
Range & Habitat: The non-native Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) is occasional in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map), and it is probably still spreading within the state. This thistle is native to Eurasia and northern Africa; it was accidentally introduced into North America during the 19th century, possibly from dumped ship ballast along the east coast. In Illinois and other parts of North America, habitats include savannas, pastures, fallow fields, roadsides, areas along railroads, waste areas, and gardens or yards that use transported soil containing the seeds of this thistle. Nodding Thistle is particularly common in areas with calcareous sand (e.g., near major lakes) and limestone-derived soil. Disturbed areas are strongly preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowerheads are cross-pollinated primarily by bumblebees and other long-tongued bees, butterflies, and skippers. In the absence of cross-pollination, the florets of the flowerheads are self-fertile. Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards. Because Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) is regarded as invasive in some parts of North America, various insects have been introduced from abroad to function as biocontrol agents. These species include: Rhinocyllus conicus (Thistlehead Weevil), whose larvae feed on the flowerheads; Trichosirocalus horridus (Thistle Crown Weevil), whose larvae feed on the growing points of rosettes and young shoots; Cheilosa corydon (Thistle Crown Fly), whose larvae burrow into shoots; Cassida rubiginosa (Thistle Tortoise Beetle), whose larvae and adults feed on leaves; and Psylliodes chalcomerus (Musk Thistle Leaf Beetle), whose larvae bore through stems, while the adults feed on leaves. Other insect feeders include Platyptilia carduidactylus (Artichoke Plume Moth) and Brachycaudus cardui (Thistle Aphid). The seeds of this thistle are eaten by a songbird, the Eastern Goldfinch, and the tufted hairs of its seeds are used in the construction of this bird's nests. Because of the spiny foliage, Nodding Thistle is rarely eaten by mammalian herbivores. However, sometimes cattle, sheep, and goats will eat the flowerheads or seedheads. It is unclear to what extent the seeds can survive passage in the digestive tracts of these animals, and thus their role in seed dispersal is still unclear.
Photographic Location: The photographed plant was cultivated in the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois. However, this plant was found originally in the yard of the webmaster's apartment complex, where it had been transported in contaminated soil that was purchased from a local garden center.
Comments: Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) has very showy and fragrant flowerheads, while its foliage is quite spiny. Until the nodding flowerheads are produced, it can be difficult to distinguish from other thistles. Like the Eurasian Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare), Nodding Thistle can be distinguished from native thistles by the spines on its stems (as derived from the decurrent margins of its leaves). It can be distinguished from the Bull Thistle by differences in the shape, size, and color of their respective phyllaries (floral bracts). The phyllaries of Nodding Thistle are larger in size, more broad at their bases, and become purple-colored when the flowerheads bloom; the phyllaries of Bull Thistle remain green at this time. In addition, the flowerheads of Nodding Thistle are usually more broad than those of Bull Thistle. Thistle species in the Carduus genus differ from thistle species in the Cirsium genus by the structure of the tufted hairs above their seeds. The tufted hairs of Carduus spp. (Musk Thistles) have barbed hairs from minute lateral hairs, while the tufted hairs of Cirsium spp. (Thistles) are more plumose (feathery) from longer lateral hairs. This is why Carduus nutans is sometimes referred to as the 'Plumeless Thistle,' even though its seeds have tufts of hair.
The blooming period occurs from early summer into the fall, lasting 1-4 months. The flowerheads are fragrant. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes (4-5 mm. in length) with large tufts of hair. These achenes are bullet-shaped, slightly flattened, and ribbed. The primary hairs that are above these achenes have minute lateral hairs (may require 10x magnification to see). The achenes are distributed primarily by the wind. The root system develops a fleshy taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic conditions, and calcareous soil that is derived from either limestone or sand. However, Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) will adapt to almost any soil that is not extremely acidic. The size of individual plants can vary considerably depending on soil fertility and moisture levels. This thistle can reseed itself aggressively and become invasive. The seeds can remain viable for 3 or more years.
Range & Habitat: The non-native Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) is occasional in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map), and it is probably still spreading within the state. This thistle is native to Eurasia and northern Africa; it was accidentally introduced into North America during the 19th century, possibly from dumped ship ballast along the east coast. In Illinois and other parts of North America, habitats include savannas, pastures, fallow fields, roadsides, areas along railroads, waste areas, and gardens or yards that use transported soil containing the seeds of this thistle. Nodding Thistle is particularly common in areas with calcareous sand (e.g., near major lakes) and limestone-derived soil. Disturbed areas are strongly preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowerheads are cross-pollinated primarily by bumblebees and other long-tongued bees, butterflies, and skippers. In the absence of cross-pollination, the florets of the flowerheads are self-fertile. Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards. Because Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) is regarded as invasive in some parts of North America, various insects have been introduced from abroad to function as biocontrol agents. These species include: Rhinocyllus conicus (Thistlehead Weevil), whose larvae feed on the flowerheads; Trichosirocalus horridus (Thistle Crown Weevil), whose larvae feed on the growing points of rosettes and young shoots; Cheilosa corydon (Thistle Crown Fly), whose larvae burrow into shoots; Cassida rubiginosa (Thistle Tortoise Beetle), whose larvae and adults feed on leaves; and Psylliodes chalcomerus (Musk Thistle Leaf Beetle), whose larvae bore through stems, while the adults feed on leaves. Other insect feeders include Platyptilia carduidactylus (Artichoke Plume Moth) and Brachycaudus cardui (Thistle Aphid). The seeds of this thistle are eaten by a songbird, the Eastern Goldfinch, and the tufted hairs of its seeds are used in the construction of this bird's nests. Because of the spiny foliage, Nodding Thistle is rarely eaten by mammalian herbivores. However, sometimes cattle, sheep, and goats will eat the flowerheads or seedheads. It is unclear to what extent the seeds can survive passage in the digestive tracts of these animals, and thus their role in seed dispersal is still unclear.
Photographic Location: The photographed plant was cultivated in the webmaster's wildflower garden in Urbana, Illinois. However, this plant was found originally in the yard of the webmaster's apartment complex, where it had been transported in contaminated soil that was purchased from a local garden center.
Comments: Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans) has very showy and fragrant flowerheads, while its foliage is quite spiny. Until the nodding flowerheads are produced, it can be difficult to distinguish from other thistles. Like the Eurasian Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare), Nodding Thistle can be distinguished from native thistles by the spines on its stems (as derived from the decurrent margins of its leaves). It can be distinguished from the Bull Thistle by differences in the shape, size, and color of their respective phyllaries (floral bracts). The phyllaries of Nodding Thistle are larger in size, more broad at their bases, and become purple-colored when the flowerheads bloom; the phyllaries of Bull Thistle remain green at this time. In addition, the flowerheads of Nodding Thistle are usually more broad than those of Bull Thistle. Thistle species in the Carduus genus differ from thistle species in the Cirsium genus by the structure of the tufted hairs above their seeds. The tufted hairs of Carduus spp. (Musk Thistles) have barbed hairs from minute lateral hairs, while the tufted hairs of Cirsium spp. (Thistles) are more plumose (feathery) from longer lateral hairs. This is why Carduus nutans is sometimes referred to as the 'Plumeless Thistle,' even though its seeds have tufts of hair.
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