文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Tiny ghost lilies (Lilium asiatic "Tiny Ghost") grow to reach about 12 to 18 inches high and do not require staking as do some lily varieties. They produce burgundy, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom during the summer and make excellent cut flowers for floral arrangements. Because tiny ghost lilies are cultivars in the Asiatic lily family, they are quite cold hardy and fairly easy to care for compared with other types of lilies.
Step 1
Plant tiny ghost lilies in soil that drains water well. Till the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as leaf mold, compost or peat, before planting. This improves the drainage and adds essential nutrients to the soil. Never plant them in soil that frequently has standing water.
Step 2
Fertilize tiny ghost lilies in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Use the recommended rates listed on the label.
Step 3
Water tiny ghost lilies in the morning so the leaves have sufficient time to dry out before nightfall. This practice helps prevent fungal and foliar diseases. Water them two to three times a week for the first month after planting while they are becoming established. After that ghost lilies typically will need water only during droughts during the growing season.
Step 4
Clip off spent tiny ghost lily flowers when they fade to encourage more blooms. Clip off only the flower just beneath the bloom, using hand clippers.
Step 5
Cut down the plants in the fall when the plant dies back. Do not cut them down when the leaves are still green because tiny ghost lilies are busy photosynthesizing sunlight into energy, which they will use next year.
Step 6
Cover tiny ghost lilies with 4 to 6 inches of mulch the first winter just as the ground begins to freeze, especially in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 and 5. For subsequent winters, cover them only in areas where snowfall is not dependable. Remove the mulch in the spring after the last hard frost.
Step 1
Plant tiny ghost lilies in soil that drains water well. Till the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as leaf mold, compost or peat, before planting. This improves the drainage and adds essential nutrients to the soil. Never plant them in soil that frequently has standing water.
Step 2
Fertilize tiny ghost lilies in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Use the recommended rates listed on the label.
Step 3
Water tiny ghost lilies in the morning so the leaves have sufficient time to dry out before nightfall. This practice helps prevent fungal and foliar diseases. Water them two to three times a week for the first month after planting while they are becoming established. After that ghost lilies typically will need water only during droughts during the growing season.
Step 4
Clip off spent tiny ghost lily flowers when they fade to encourage more blooms. Clip off only the flower just beneath the bloom, using hand clippers.
Step 5
Cut down the plants in the fall when the plant dies back. Do not cut them down when the leaves are still green because tiny ghost lilies are busy photosynthesizing sunlight into energy, which they will use next year.
Step 6
Cover tiny ghost lilies with 4 to 6 inches of mulch the first winter just as the ground begins to freeze, especially in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 and 5. For subsequent winters, cover them only in areas where snowfall is not dependable. Remove the mulch in the spring after the last hard frost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Perennial gardeners who master bulb division and growing lilies from seed may want to try another form of vegetative propagation, stem cuttings. Although this method of propagation is more difficult for herbaceous perennials such as true lilies that grow from bulbs than it is for woody perennials, stem cuttings guarantee an identical clone of the parent plants. Some types of lilies lend themselves more readily to the technique.
How Lilies Reproduce
Lilies grow from scaled bulbs that carry the genetic code of the plant and the embryo and food and moisture to keep it safe until conditions allow it to grow again. Bulbs multiply rapidly. Some varieties produce additional bloom-ready bulbs every year. Some bulbs grow little bulblets around the base, or growth plate, of the parent bulbs and the section of the stem between the bulb and soil line. Some lilies, notably the North American native tiger lily, grow tiny bulbils at the junction of the leaf and stem. Each scale of the lily's bulb, every bulblet and bulbil carry the exact chromosomal combination of the parent. Seeds, produced in pods formed on flower stems, carry the combined genetic code for a new plant -- a hybrid -- with the combined chromosomal structure of the seed-bearing parent and whatever lily provided pollen. Success with stem cuttings relies on how the cultivar self-reproduces and how the stem cutting is planted.
Timing
Lily stems begin dying back quickly after flowers fade, so cuttings must be taken soon after the last flowers drop. Cuttings must be planted immediately in sharp sand or a starting mix and kept moist. When a shoot emerges, a bulbil has formed in the axil where the leaf meets the stem. This tiny bulb, planted in a nursery plot in spring, should grow large enough to move to the garden within a year or two. If the stem cutting successfully creates a bulbil, it may grow large enough to produce flowers within two to four seasons, depending on the lily cultivar.
Method
Section green, live sections of the stem, keeping at least one leaf on each section. Dust the section with a fungicide or rooting hormone, available at garden centers, and plant sections in a flat of sharp sand or soilless starter mix so that the leaves stand up above each section. Be sure to bury the axil of each leaf. That is where the bulbil will form.
Choosing Lilies for Cuttings
Many species of lilies, such as tiger lilies, readily form bulbils in leaf axils; hybrid Asiatics form bulblets on stems underground and leaves torn off with a section of stem. Lilies will not grow directly from stem cuttings; they must first form bulbils, so be patient. Only the lilies that grow bulbils -- or those hybrids whose ancestors grew bulbils -- will respond to this method of vegetative reproduction. The rest provide plenty of bulblets for the picking and planting on their mother bulbs' growth plates or along the underground sections of their stems.
How Lilies Reproduce
Lilies grow from scaled bulbs that carry the genetic code of the plant and the embryo and food and moisture to keep it safe until conditions allow it to grow again. Bulbs multiply rapidly. Some varieties produce additional bloom-ready bulbs every year. Some bulbs grow little bulblets around the base, or growth plate, of the parent bulbs and the section of the stem between the bulb and soil line. Some lilies, notably the North American native tiger lily, grow tiny bulbils at the junction of the leaf and stem. Each scale of the lily's bulb, every bulblet and bulbil carry the exact chromosomal combination of the parent. Seeds, produced in pods formed on flower stems, carry the combined genetic code for a new plant -- a hybrid -- with the combined chromosomal structure of the seed-bearing parent and whatever lily provided pollen. Success with stem cuttings relies on how the cultivar self-reproduces and how the stem cutting is planted.
Timing
Lily stems begin dying back quickly after flowers fade, so cuttings must be taken soon after the last flowers drop. Cuttings must be planted immediately in sharp sand or a starting mix and kept moist. When a shoot emerges, a bulbil has formed in the axil where the leaf meets the stem. This tiny bulb, planted in a nursery plot in spring, should grow large enough to move to the garden within a year or two. If the stem cutting successfully creates a bulbil, it may grow large enough to produce flowers within two to four seasons, depending on the lily cultivar.
Method
Section green, live sections of the stem, keeping at least one leaf on each section. Dust the section with a fungicide or rooting hormone, available at garden centers, and plant sections in a flat of sharp sand or soilless starter mix so that the leaves stand up above each section. Be sure to bury the axil of each leaf. That is where the bulbil will form.
Choosing Lilies for Cuttings
Many species of lilies, such as tiger lilies, readily form bulbils in leaf axils; hybrid Asiatics form bulblets on stems underground and leaves torn off with a section of stem. Lilies will not grow directly from stem cuttings; they must first form bulbils, so be patient. Only the lilies that grow bulbils -- or those hybrids whose ancestors grew bulbils -- will respond to this method of vegetative reproduction. The rest provide plenty of bulblets for the picking and planting on their mother bulbs' growth plates or along the underground sections of their stems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Tiger Lilies (Lilium columbianum Leichtlin), also known as Columbia lilies, are native to North America. The orange flowers, which may or may not have speckles, grow up to 4 feet tall. They add color and variety to the home garden. The flowers have six petals and blossom during the summer months. The best time to transplant tiger lilies depends on whether you are working with bulbs, bulbils, scales or seedlings.
Propagation
You can propagate lilies from bulbs, bulbils, scales or seed. During the growing season, the flower bulb will produce several smaller bulbs that remain attached to it. Even the tiniest bulb in the cluster is fertile if it has roots growing from it. If you want to plant seeds, then do not remove the spent flowers from the plants. This will encourage the plant to produce seedpods.
Transplanting Bulbs
As tiger lily bulbs never become dormant, according to North Dakota State University Extension, you need to choose the best time to transplant them. The best time is during autumn when the weather is chilly, and after the plants have died back. Dig up the bulbs, separate the cluster and then immediately replant them approximately 1 foot apart. This spacing gives the plants enough distance for healthy growth and flowering.
Transplanting Bulbils
Bulbils produce bulbs one to two years after you plant them. You will find bulbils on the mature leaves of the tiger lily in late summer or early autumn. They look like plump black beads. Carefully remove them from the leaves and immediately plant them in furrows, recommends the North American Lily Society.
Transplanting Scales
As soon as your tiger lilies finish flowering, usually in late summer, dig up the bulbs and remove from four to eight scales from each one. Do not touch the inner layers of scales, as they provide nutrition to the bulb. Additionally, you can remove the same number of scales from newly purchased tiger lily bulbs before planting them. The scales will grow bulblets and form roots. Find detailed directions for transplanting scales in Resources.
Transplanting Seedlings
Harvest only the brown seedpods, as they contain mature seeds. Depending on your weather, the seedlings should be ready to transplant from 6 to 8 weeks after sowing. Harden off the seedlings for approximately two weeks before transplanting into your garden Plant them in the spring when the soil is warm and all danger of frost is past.
Propagation
You can propagate lilies from bulbs, bulbils, scales or seed. During the growing season, the flower bulb will produce several smaller bulbs that remain attached to it. Even the tiniest bulb in the cluster is fertile if it has roots growing from it. If you want to plant seeds, then do not remove the spent flowers from the plants. This will encourage the plant to produce seedpods.
Transplanting Bulbs
As tiger lily bulbs never become dormant, according to North Dakota State University Extension, you need to choose the best time to transplant them. The best time is during autumn when the weather is chilly, and after the plants have died back. Dig up the bulbs, separate the cluster and then immediately replant them approximately 1 foot apart. This spacing gives the plants enough distance for healthy growth and flowering.
Transplanting Bulbils
Bulbils produce bulbs one to two years after you plant them. You will find bulbils on the mature leaves of the tiger lily in late summer or early autumn. They look like plump black beads. Carefully remove them from the leaves and immediately plant them in furrows, recommends the North American Lily Society.
Transplanting Scales
As soon as your tiger lilies finish flowering, usually in late summer, dig up the bulbs and remove from four to eight scales from each one. Do not touch the inner layers of scales, as they provide nutrition to the bulb. Additionally, you can remove the same number of scales from newly purchased tiger lily bulbs before planting them. The scales will grow bulblets and form roots. Find detailed directions for transplanting scales in Resources.
Transplanting Seedlings
Harvest only the brown seedpods, as they contain mature seeds. Depending on your weather, the seedlings should be ready to transplant from 6 to 8 weeks after sowing. Harden off the seedlings for approximately two weeks before transplanting into your garden Plant them in the spring when the soil is warm and all danger of frost is past.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月02日
Lily (Lilium) bulbs multiply continuously, hidden under the soil. Each spring, new flowers come up reliably, even if you neglected them through the year. But, every few years, lilies need to be divided and transplanted, otherwise they get overcrowded, resulting in fewer flowers and weak plant growth. Lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8.
When to Divide Lilies
When growing lilies, it's best to let them grow undisturbed as long as they are flowering reliably. In general, plan to divide lilies about every three years, or when when you notice an overall reduction in flowers and spindly weak-looking stems. Lily bulbs produce small offsets that grow into full-size bulbs. As the bulbs multiply, it causes overcrowding in the growing area. Plan to separate and transplant lilies in early fall, after the flowers fade and the leaves start to die back.
Digging Lilies
Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the soil. Lily bulbs grow right below the leaf stalk, so you can dig 3 to 6-inches from the edge of the clump without damaging the main bulbs. Shake of the excess soil to expose the bulbs. Gently pull the clump apart to expose the individual bulbs. Use your fingers to untangle the roots.
Dividing Bulbs
Hold the lily bulb and identify the smaller offset growing out from the side. They will be connected at the base. Gently break the smaller bulb from the larger bulb. Ideally you should replant immediately, but you can store lily bulbs until spring if replanting right away isn't convenient. To store, pack lily bulbs in damp peat moss and place them in a plastic bag. Keep the bulbs in the refrigerator until you are ready to plant.
Transplanting
You can replant all the lily bulbs in the original spot spreading them out to avoid overcrowding, or move some to a new garden area. Lilies grow best in full sun and soil with good drainage. Dig holes for each bulb two to three times deeper than the height of the bulb. Place one lily bulb in each hole with the flat side down and the pointed side up. Push the soil over the bulb and pat it down gently. Space each lily bulb 12 to 18 inches apart. After you are finished planting, water the area.
When to Divide Lilies
When growing lilies, it's best to let them grow undisturbed as long as they are flowering reliably. In general, plan to divide lilies about every three years, or when when you notice an overall reduction in flowers and spindly weak-looking stems. Lily bulbs produce small offsets that grow into full-size bulbs. As the bulbs multiply, it causes overcrowding in the growing area. Plan to separate and transplant lilies in early fall, after the flowers fade and the leaves start to die back.
Digging Lilies
Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the soil. Lily bulbs grow right below the leaf stalk, so you can dig 3 to 6-inches from the edge of the clump without damaging the main bulbs. Shake of the excess soil to expose the bulbs. Gently pull the clump apart to expose the individual bulbs. Use your fingers to untangle the roots.
Dividing Bulbs
Hold the lily bulb and identify the smaller offset growing out from the side. They will be connected at the base. Gently break the smaller bulb from the larger bulb. Ideally you should replant immediately, but you can store lily bulbs until spring if replanting right away isn't convenient. To store, pack lily bulbs in damp peat moss and place them in a plastic bag. Keep the bulbs in the refrigerator until you are ready to plant.
Transplanting
You can replant all the lily bulbs in the original spot spreading them out to avoid overcrowding, or move some to a new garden area. Lilies grow best in full sun and soil with good drainage. Dig holes for each bulb two to three times deeper than the height of the bulb. Place one lily bulb in each hole with the flat side down and the pointed side up. Push the soil over the bulb and pat it down gently. Space each lily bulb 12 to 18 inches apart. After you are finished planting, water the area.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月15日
Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum) are a common houseplant requiring filtered light and continually moist soil. They can reach 6 feet, but are typically 1 to 4 feet high. White flowers are highlighted against the plant's dark, glossy leaves. Both attractive and easy to grow, it is not needy. However, providing fertilizer will encourage blooms and help your peace lily thrive. And you can mix up a homemade fertilizer with ingredients you have on hand.
Epson Salt Fertilizer
Mix 1 tablespoon of Epsom Salts into 1 gallon of water in a jug or pitcher. Shake or stir the mixture thoroughly. Apply this solution to your peace lily every 4 to 6 weeks in place of a water application. Shake the container before each use.
Fish Tank Fertilizer
If you have a fish tank, save the water from a tank cleaning in a clean jug. Shake the water and apply to the base of the peace lily every month in place of a water application. This homemade fertilizer will provide much-needed nitrogen to your plant.
Vinegar Fertilizer
Mix 1 tablespoon of white vinegar into 1 gallon of water in a jug or pitcher. Shake or stir the mixture and apply to your peace lily once every three months in place of an alternate monthly feeding. Vinegar contains acetic acid, and will increase the acidity of the soil slightly.
Milk or Juice Fertilizer
Rinse out empty milk cartons and apply it to the base of your peace lily. Milk contains nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium -- all components of a basic commercial fertilizer. Use the rinse water from apple or orange juice containers in the same manner to provide a potassium boost to your plant.
Epson Salt Fertilizer
Mix 1 tablespoon of Epsom Salts into 1 gallon of water in a jug or pitcher. Shake or stir the mixture thoroughly. Apply this solution to your peace lily every 4 to 6 weeks in place of a water application. Shake the container before each use.
Fish Tank Fertilizer
If you have a fish tank, save the water from a tank cleaning in a clean jug. Shake the water and apply to the base of the peace lily every month in place of a water application. This homemade fertilizer will provide much-needed nitrogen to your plant.
Vinegar Fertilizer
Mix 1 tablespoon of white vinegar into 1 gallon of water in a jug or pitcher. Shake or stir the mixture and apply to your peace lily once every three months in place of an alternate monthly feeding. Vinegar contains acetic acid, and will increase the acidity of the soil slightly.
Milk or Juice Fertilizer
Rinse out empty milk cartons and apply it to the base of your peace lily. Milk contains nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium -- all components of a basic commercial fertilizer. Use the rinse water from apple or orange juice containers in the same manner to provide a potassium boost to your plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The plants commonly called Calla Lilies are members of the genus Zantedeschia. They are herbaceous flowering plants native to Africa, ranging from South Africa north to Malawi.
Although not considered true Lilies, the Calla Lily is an extraordinary flower. This beautiful plant, available in a multitude of colors, grows from rhizomes and is ideal for use in beds and borders. You can also grow them in containers, either outdoors or in a sunny window as houseplants.
Here are a few tips on growing Calla Lilies that will make them sparkle in your yard.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is easy to grow Calla Lilies. These plants do not generally require too much attention. Proper planting and location are about the only important things to consider when growing Calla Lilies. Care of them requires that they be planted in loose, well-drained soil. They prefer to be located in full sun or partial shade in warmer climates. Plants are typically planted in the spring. However, wait until the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed sufficiently before planting.
They should be planted rather deep, about 4 inches (10 cm) for greater results, and spaced approximately a foot apart. Once planted, the area should be watered well. Calla Lilies enjoy being kept moist and will also benefit from a monthly dose of fertilizer throughout the growing season.
As with planting, there’s not too much required for the care of Calla Lilies other than keeping them watered and fertilized. An adequate layer of mulch around the plants will help keep the area moist and free of weeds. They require a dormant period once flowering has ceased. During this time, you should refrain from watering as much to allow the plant to die back.
If you grow Calla Lilies in containers, cease watering and move the plant to a dark area once the foliage has faded. Regular watering can resume within two to three months. Although they can remain in the ground year round in warmer climates, they should be lifted and stored in cooler areas.
Dig up the rhizomes in autumn, usually after the first frost, and shake off any soil. Allow them to dry out for a few days before storing the rhizomes for winter. Calla Lilies should be stored in peat moss and located in a cool, dry area, preferably dark, until warmer temperatures return in spring. Likewise, you can choose to start your plants indoors during late winter and transplant them outside in spring. They can also be divided when lifted or during their dormancy period.
Growing Calla Lilies is easy and care is minimal at best. Choosing to grow them in the garden or as houseplants is a great way to add color to any area. These tips on growing Calla Lilies will help you enjoy these lovely flowers even more.
Although not considered true Lilies, the Calla Lily is an extraordinary flower. This beautiful plant, available in a multitude of colors, grows from rhizomes and is ideal for use in beds and borders. You can also grow them in containers, either outdoors or in a sunny window as houseplants.
Here are a few tips on growing Calla Lilies that will make them sparkle in your yard.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is easy to grow Calla Lilies. These plants do not generally require too much attention. Proper planting and location are about the only important things to consider when growing Calla Lilies. Care of them requires that they be planted in loose, well-drained soil. They prefer to be located in full sun or partial shade in warmer climates. Plants are typically planted in the spring. However, wait until the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed sufficiently before planting.
They should be planted rather deep, about 4 inches (10 cm) for greater results, and spaced approximately a foot apart. Once planted, the area should be watered well. Calla Lilies enjoy being kept moist and will also benefit from a monthly dose of fertilizer throughout the growing season.
As with planting, there’s not too much required for the care of Calla Lilies other than keeping them watered and fertilized. An adequate layer of mulch around the plants will help keep the area moist and free of weeds. They require a dormant period once flowering has ceased. During this time, you should refrain from watering as much to allow the plant to die back.
If you grow Calla Lilies in containers, cease watering and move the plant to a dark area once the foliage has faded. Regular watering can resume within two to three months. Although they can remain in the ground year round in warmer climates, they should be lifted and stored in cooler areas.
Dig up the rhizomes in autumn, usually after the first frost, and shake off any soil. Allow them to dry out for a few days before storing the rhizomes for winter. Calla Lilies should be stored in peat moss and located in a cool, dry area, preferably dark, until warmer temperatures return in spring. Likewise, you can choose to start your plants indoors during late winter and transplant them outside in spring. They can also be divided when lifted or during their dormancy period.
Growing Calla Lilies is easy and care is minimal at best. Choosing to grow them in the garden or as houseplants is a great way to add color to any area. These tips on growing Calla Lilies will help you enjoy these lovely flowers even more.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The Alstroemeria is a hardy perennial plant goes by a number of names, of which the most popular are Peruvian Lily or Lily of the Incas. Peruvian Lilies are among the more exotically beautiful flowers, and make great cuttings; but they also stand alone nicely in the yard, garden or pots. Because they’re very resilient, you could have them as borders in your landscaping scheme, potted plants on the patio and indoors, or as cut flowers; all them with different colors and styles to add great color to your home and garden. As for cut flowers, a long blooming period makes them perfect for that use, and the cut flowers last for a nice period of time as well.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Gloriosa Lilies (the genus Gloriosa), also known as Flame Lilies and Glory Lilies, thrive in fertile, well-drained soil in full to partial sun. Hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they can be overwintered successfully in zone 9 with winter mulch. In cooler areas, Gloriosa Lilies can be grown successfully during the summer and lifted and stored for the winter.
These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. They can reach heights of 8 feet (2.4 m) and require a trellis or wall to climb. Although climbing lilies do not produce tendrils, the specialized leaves of the Gloriosa Lily cling to the trellis or other plant material, to pull the vine upward.
Growing Conditions
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
The ideal time for Gloriosa Lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa Lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) and lay the tuber on its side in the hole.
Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers.
General Care
Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to give your Gloriosa Lily a good start. Keep the soil evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch below the surface. Gloriosa Lilies typically require an inch of rain and week and need supplemental watering during dry periods.
Train the vines to climb the trellis by tying them to the trellis with soft plant ties, if necessary. Although Gloriosa Lilies cling to the trellis once established, they may need some help from you to get them started.
Fertilize Gloriosa Lilies every two weeks with water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming.
Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.
These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. They can reach heights of 8 feet (2.4 m) and require a trellis or wall to climb. Although climbing lilies do not produce tendrils, the specialized leaves of the Gloriosa Lily cling to the trellis or other plant material, to pull the vine upward.
Growing Conditions
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
The ideal time for Gloriosa Lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa Lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) and lay the tuber on its side in the hole.
Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers.
General Care
Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to give your Gloriosa Lily a good start. Keep the soil evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch below the surface. Gloriosa Lilies typically require an inch of rain and week and need supplemental watering during dry periods.
Train the vines to climb the trellis by tying them to the trellis with soft plant ties, if necessary. Although Gloriosa Lilies cling to the trellis once established, they may need some help from you to get them started.
Fertilize Gloriosa Lilies every two weeks with water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming.
Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Spathiphyllum (commonly known as Peace Lilies) is a genus of about 40 species of flowering plants in the family Araceae, native to tropical regions of the Americas and southeastern Asia. They are a popular choice for offices and homes. Peace Lilies are vibrant and lovely, with verdant leaves that grace any indoor space with a touch of life. They’re also on NASA’s list of top air-cleaning plants. The really great news, though, is that peace lilies are easy to care for. With these tips, you can enjoy them for both their aesthetic and function for years to come. 
Light
Peace Lilies like indirect light and shade, making them ideal for indoor environments. They’re even known to do well in offices with fluorescent lights and no windows! South- or west-facing windows tend to be the best locations for Peace Lilies, providing the right mix of light. Your Peace Lily will tell you if it’s getting too much light. Yellow leaves indicate too much light, while brown streaks are a sign of scorching from direct sunlight. Move your Peace Lily if its leaves exhibit these signs.
Watering
Peace Lilies are more tolerant of under-watering than over-watering. Keep plants evenly moist by watering when soil feels dry to the touch. Take care not to over-water. If your tap water has a lot of chlorine, leave it out overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Peace Lily leaves also enjoy a good misting, which you can do when you water throughout the summer.
Watering is another area in which your Peace Lily will communicate with you. If leaves begin to droop, it’s time to water and your plant won’t be any worse for the little bit of wear.
Make sure your Peace Lily’s pot has good drainage. If wilting occurs, check for soggy roots, which indicates root rot.
Fertilizing
While Peace Lilies can do fine with fertilization only once or twice a year, regular fertilization in spring and summer will encourage blooms. Peace Lilies are sensitive to chemical fertilizers, so use an organic general houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength.
Repotting and Propagating
Once roots begin to show above the soil, it’s time to repot your Peace Lily. This usually occurs about every year or two. Repot into a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) bigger in diameter than the current pot.
Repotting is a good time to divide your plant. Crowns, areas where clusters of about two new leaves are growing, are a good place to divide your plant, but some people just separate roots anywhere to multiply their plant. Use soil from the old pot for the new plant so that it isn’t shocked. For smaller transplants, don’t use a pot that’s too big. Cozy roots encourage blooms.
Light
Peace Lilies like indirect light and shade, making them ideal for indoor environments. They’re even known to do well in offices with fluorescent lights and no windows! South- or west-facing windows tend to be the best locations for Peace Lilies, providing the right mix of light. Your Peace Lily will tell you if it’s getting too much light. Yellow leaves indicate too much light, while brown streaks are a sign of scorching from direct sunlight. Move your Peace Lily if its leaves exhibit these signs.
Watering
Peace Lilies are more tolerant of under-watering than over-watering. Keep plants evenly moist by watering when soil feels dry to the touch. Take care not to over-water. If your tap water has a lot of chlorine, leave it out overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Peace Lily leaves also enjoy a good misting, which you can do when you water throughout the summer.
Watering is another area in which your Peace Lily will communicate with you. If leaves begin to droop, it’s time to water and your plant won’t be any worse for the little bit of wear.
Make sure your Peace Lily’s pot has good drainage. If wilting occurs, check for soggy roots, which indicates root rot.
Fertilizing
While Peace Lilies can do fine with fertilization only once or twice a year, regular fertilization in spring and summer will encourage blooms. Peace Lilies are sensitive to chemical fertilizers, so use an organic general houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength.
Repotting and Propagating
Once roots begin to show above the soil, it’s time to repot your Peace Lily. This usually occurs about every year or two. Repot into a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) bigger in diameter than the current pot.
Repotting is a good time to divide your plant. Crowns, areas where clusters of about two new leaves are growing, are a good place to divide your plant, but some people just separate roots anywhere to multiply their plant. Use soil from the old pot for the new plant so that it isn’t shocked. For smaller transplants, don’t use a pot that’s too big. Cozy roots encourage blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Bowiea volubilis also known as Climbing Onion Plant, is not related to onions or other alliums but is more closely aligned with lilies. It is not an edible plant and can be described as an interesting, but not as pretty, specimen of flora. Bowiea Sea Onion is another name for the plant, which is a succulent plant without any leaves. The plant grows from a bulb which is often outside of the soil. Growing climbing onion as a houseplant will amaze visitors and give all who see it something to ponder.
Bowiea is the genus for the Climbing Onion Plant. These plants are native to Africa and indigenous where soil is poor, moisture is minimal and heat is severe. They grow well in most home interiors provided there is not excessive humidity. The plant itself is a curiosity, with its surface growing bulb and green starry flowers.
Climbing Onions grow out of a bulb. The plant has no obvious leaves because the onion-like bulb is comprised of compressed leaf structures. As with any bulb, the onion houses the embryo and holds carbohydrates for continued plant growth.
Climbing Onion plants may grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) across in their native habitat but usually only achieve 4 inches (10 cm) in captivity. They produce offsets or smaller bulbs as the plant matures, which can be divided away from the parent to produce new plants. Slender stems sprout from the bulbs and branch out into feathery flower stalks. Numerous tiny 6 pointed starry white to green blooms appear along the stems.
Growing Conditions
The best medium for growing Climbing Onion is a gritty, well-draining soil mixture. If you wish to make your own mixture, combine half potting soil and half sand. Choose a pot with drainage holes, as excess moisture can make the bulb rot.
Climbing Onions like to be in a crowded pot, so select one that is just barely larger than the bulb. Place the container in full, but sheltered, sun or partial shade. Excess heat will cause the bulb to callus over and become dormant, while consistent even warmth and moderate moisture will allow the plant to grow all year.
Grower’s Tips
Overwatering is a major concern with this plant. Best growth is achieved with moderate and consistent moisture, but never let the plant sit in water and allow the soil to dry out between watering. Stop watering completely when the stalks dry out after blooming in late summer. At this point, you can cut off the spent stems when they begin to dry out and brown. Resume watering when the bulb re-sprouts, generally in fall.
You can move the plant to a sheltered area outside in summer as long as the plant is kept above 50° F (10° C). Supplemental feeding is not a necessary part of climbing onion care. Provide the airy green stems with a support structure or simply allow them to tangle around themselves.
Bowiea is the genus for the Climbing Onion Plant. These plants are native to Africa and indigenous where soil is poor, moisture is minimal and heat is severe. They grow well in most home interiors provided there is not excessive humidity. The plant itself is a curiosity, with its surface growing bulb and green starry flowers.
Climbing Onions grow out of a bulb. The plant has no obvious leaves because the onion-like bulb is comprised of compressed leaf structures. As with any bulb, the onion houses the embryo and holds carbohydrates for continued plant growth.
Climbing Onion plants may grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) across in their native habitat but usually only achieve 4 inches (10 cm) in captivity. They produce offsets or smaller bulbs as the plant matures, which can be divided away from the parent to produce new plants. Slender stems sprout from the bulbs and branch out into feathery flower stalks. Numerous tiny 6 pointed starry white to green blooms appear along the stems.
Growing Conditions
The best medium for growing Climbing Onion is a gritty, well-draining soil mixture. If you wish to make your own mixture, combine half potting soil and half sand. Choose a pot with drainage holes, as excess moisture can make the bulb rot.
Climbing Onions like to be in a crowded pot, so select one that is just barely larger than the bulb. Place the container in full, but sheltered, sun or partial shade. Excess heat will cause the bulb to callus over and become dormant, while consistent even warmth and moderate moisture will allow the plant to grow all year.
Grower’s Tips
Overwatering is a major concern with this plant. Best growth is achieved with moderate and consistent moisture, but never let the plant sit in water and allow the soil to dry out between watering. Stop watering completely when the stalks dry out after blooming in late summer. At this point, you can cut off the spent stems when they begin to dry out and brown. Resume watering when the bulb re-sprouts, generally in fall.
You can move the plant to a sheltered area outside in summer as long as the plant is kept above 50° F (10° C). Supplemental feeding is not a necessary part of climbing onion care. Provide the airy green stems with a support structure or simply allow them to tangle around themselves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
These bright red beetles are very distinctive and therefore quite easy to spot on affected plants. Also, look for holes in leaves, stems and flowers, left by the small slimy black larvae.
Plants affected
They're highly destructive to lilies (Lilium), and fritillaries (Fritillaria).
About Scarlet lily beetle
These bright red beetles, with distinctive black legs and antennae, are an invasive species which was first recorded in the UK during the 1940s.
They're also known as red lily beetles and are now commonly found across the south-east of England, and have recently been reported in parts of Scotland, Wales and Ireland.
When disturbed, adults emit a high pitch squeak, perhaps as a warning to other beetles.
Adults overwinter in the soil and emerge in late-March to early April.
Adults will continue to mate and feed from spring until autumn.
After mating, females will lay small groups of bright orange eggs on the underside of leaves.
Larvae hatch a few days later as red or orange-coloured grubs with black heads and three pairs of legs on their upper body.
As they feed, the larvae cover themselves in their own sticky black excrement.
Lily beetle larvae are usually found on the underside of leaves where they feed from the tip and work back to the stem.
Any larvae which survive to become adults will drop to the soil in late autumn to overwinter, and emerge again the next spring.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Scarlet lily beetle
Pyrethrum
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Inspect plants carefully in early spring and remove any adults and larvae by hand to prevent infestations becoming established.
Use netting and fleece to contain the pests and stop adults moving between plants.
Replant pot-grown lilies and fritillarias using fresh compost in early spring before the overwintering adult beetles emerge from the soil.
There are no biological controls commercially available, although a range of native parasites and predators will feed on both adult and larval stages. So encourage these by establishing a natural balance of wildlife in your garden and avoid using chemicals.
Prevention
Check plants regularly for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage insect-eating birds by putting up feeders in winter and provide nesting boxes in spring.
Plants affected
They're highly destructive to lilies (Lilium), and fritillaries (Fritillaria).
About Scarlet lily beetle
These bright red beetles, with distinctive black legs and antennae, are an invasive species which was first recorded in the UK during the 1940s.
They're also known as red lily beetles and are now commonly found across the south-east of England, and have recently been reported in parts of Scotland, Wales and Ireland.
When disturbed, adults emit a high pitch squeak, perhaps as a warning to other beetles.
Adults overwinter in the soil and emerge in late-March to early April.
Adults will continue to mate and feed from spring until autumn.
After mating, females will lay small groups of bright orange eggs on the underside of leaves.
Larvae hatch a few days later as red or orange-coloured grubs with black heads and three pairs of legs on their upper body.
As they feed, the larvae cover themselves in their own sticky black excrement.
Lily beetle larvae are usually found on the underside of leaves where they feed from the tip and work back to the stem.
Any larvae which survive to become adults will drop to the soil in late autumn to overwinter, and emerge again the next spring.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Scarlet lily beetle
Pyrethrum
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Inspect plants carefully in early spring and remove any adults and larvae by hand to prevent infestations becoming established.
Use netting and fleece to contain the pests and stop adults moving between plants.
Replant pot-grown lilies and fritillarias using fresh compost in early spring before the overwintering adult beetles emerge from the soil.
There are no biological controls commercially available, although a range of native parasites and predators will feed on both adult and larval stages. So encourage these by establishing a natural balance of wildlife in your garden and avoid using chemicals.
Prevention
Check plants regularly for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage insect-eating birds by putting up feeders in winter and provide nesting boxes in spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Graceful and elegant, water lilies (Nymphaea spp.) are a wonderful addition to any water garden. But if your water lily is not hardy for your climate, you may be wondering how to winterize water lily plants. Even if your water lilies are hardy, you might be wondering what you should do for them to help them make it through winter. Winter care for water lily plants does take a little bit of planning, but is easy to do once you know how. Keep reading to learn more about how to over winter water lilies.
How to Winterize Water Lily Plants
The steps for wintering water lilies actually starts long before winter actually arrives, regardless of whether you grow hardy or tropical water lilies. In late summer, stop fertilizing your water lilies. This will signal to your water lily plants that it’s time to start getting ready for cold weather. A few things will happen after this. First, the water lily will start to grow tubers. This will provide food for them over the winter. Second, they will start to die back and enter dormancy, which slows their systems down and helps keep them safe over winter. The water lilies will typically grow small leaves at this time and their larger leaves will turn yellow and die. Once this occurs, you are ready to take steps for wintering your water lilies.
How to Store Water Lilies Over Winter
Wintering Hardy Water Lilies
For hardy water lilies, the key to how to over winter water lilies well is to move them to the deepest part of your pond. This will insulate them a little from repeated freezing and unfreezing, which will decrease your water lily’s chance of surviving the cold.
Wintering Tropical Water Lilies
For tropical water lilies, after the first frost, lift the water lilies from your pond. Check the roots to make sure that the plant has properly formed tubers. Without tubers, it will have a difficult time surviving the winter.
After you have lifted your water lilies from the pond, they need to be placed in water. The containers people use to store their water lilies over winter varies. You can use an aquarium with a grow or fluorescent light, a plastic tub under lights or in a glass or plastic jar placed on a window sill. Any container where the plants are in water and get eight to 12 hours of light will work. It’s best to store your water lilies bare rooted in the water and not in growing pots. Replace the water weekly in container and keep the water temperature around 70 F. (21 C.). In the spring, when the tubers sprout, replant the water lily in a growing pot and place out into your pond after the last frost date has passed.
How to Winterize Water Lily Plants
The steps for wintering water lilies actually starts long before winter actually arrives, regardless of whether you grow hardy or tropical water lilies. In late summer, stop fertilizing your water lilies. This will signal to your water lily plants that it’s time to start getting ready for cold weather. A few things will happen after this. First, the water lily will start to grow tubers. This will provide food for them over the winter. Second, they will start to die back and enter dormancy, which slows their systems down and helps keep them safe over winter. The water lilies will typically grow small leaves at this time and their larger leaves will turn yellow and die. Once this occurs, you are ready to take steps for wintering your water lilies.
How to Store Water Lilies Over Winter
Wintering Hardy Water Lilies
For hardy water lilies, the key to how to over winter water lilies well is to move them to the deepest part of your pond. This will insulate them a little from repeated freezing and unfreezing, which will decrease your water lily’s chance of surviving the cold.
Wintering Tropical Water Lilies
For tropical water lilies, after the first frost, lift the water lilies from your pond. Check the roots to make sure that the plant has properly formed tubers. Without tubers, it will have a difficult time surviving the winter.
After you have lifted your water lilies from the pond, they need to be placed in water. The containers people use to store their water lilies over winter varies. You can use an aquarium with a grow or fluorescent light, a plastic tub under lights or in a glass or plastic jar placed on a window sill. Any container where the plants are in water and get eight to 12 hours of light will work. It’s best to store your water lilies bare rooted in the water and not in growing pots. Replace the water weekly in container and keep the water temperature around 70 F. (21 C.). In the spring, when the tubers sprout, replant the water lily in a growing pot and place out into your pond after the last frost date has passed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Water lilies (Nymphaea spp.) are the perfect finishing touches for a garden pool or pond, adding practicality as well as beauty to a water feature. Fish use them as hiding places to escape predators and as shady retreats from the hot summer sun. Plants growing in a pond help keep the water clean and aerated, so you’ll spend less time on pond maintenance. Let’s take a look at how to grow a water lily.
Water lily plants can be divided into two types:
Hardy – Hardy types are best for northern climates where the water freezes in winter. As long as the roots of hardy specimens are below the level where the water freezes, they will reappear the following spring. Tropical – Tropical water lilies won’t survive in cold water and must be brought indoors for winter in all but the warmest areas. Many growers treat them as annuals, replanting them each year. Otherwise, remove them from the pond, clean them up, and store them in a bucket of moist sand in a cool basement before the first freeze. Tropical water lily plants can be further divided into two groups: day bloomers and night bloomers. White night bloomers look spectacular with nothing more than moonlight to illuminate them, but blues, purples, reds and pinks are very difficult to see in the dark. Avoid these colors unless the pond is illuminated by artificial light at night.
How to Grow a Water Lily
A pond or pool covered in water lilies is attractive, but complete coverage prevents light from penetrating into the water, choking out other plant and animal life. Growing water lilies in containers helps keep them from spreading and taking over a small pond and it makes water lily care much easier. When you are growing water lilies, use a large plastic pot with several holes punched in the sides and bottom. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the top with silt, loam or clay soil and mix in a small amount of slow-release fertilizer labeled for use with aquatic soil. Plant the rhizome close to one side of the pot at a 45-degree angle with the eye pointing up. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel, keeping the gravel away from the top of the rhizome as much as possible. The gravel keeps the soil from floating off or washing out of the pot.
Place the pot in the bottom of the pond, adjusting the depth to that recommended for your specific variety. Most call for a depth of between 6 and 18 inches. If necessary, you can raise the depth by placing the pot on top of rocks.
NOTE: For those having fish in their water garden, water lilies should NOT be potted in regular potting soil, as this contains a lot of organic material that will eventually rot and foul the water. Remove any rotting organic material from your pond or water garden, as this is a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria and pathogens and may add unwanted excess nutrients to feed algae blooms. Instead, pot water lilies, and any other pond plant, in a heavy clay soil and cover with fist sized rock, and then river rock to prevent fish from rooting around in the pot and sending the planting medium into the pond. A few simple preventative steps up front are far easier to take than trying to treat sick and dying fish later.
Water lily plants can be divided into two types:
Hardy – Hardy types are best for northern climates where the water freezes in winter. As long as the roots of hardy specimens are below the level where the water freezes, they will reappear the following spring. Tropical – Tropical water lilies won’t survive in cold water and must be brought indoors for winter in all but the warmest areas. Many growers treat them as annuals, replanting them each year. Otherwise, remove them from the pond, clean them up, and store them in a bucket of moist sand in a cool basement before the first freeze. Tropical water lily plants can be further divided into two groups: day bloomers and night bloomers. White night bloomers look spectacular with nothing more than moonlight to illuminate them, but blues, purples, reds and pinks are very difficult to see in the dark. Avoid these colors unless the pond is illuminated by artificial light at night.
How to Grow a Water Lily
A pond or pool covered in water lilies is attractive, but complete coverage prevents light from penetrating into the water, choking out other plant and animal life. Growing water lilies in containers helps keep them from spreading and taking over a small pond and it makes water lily care much easier. When you are growing water lilies, use a large plastic pot with several holes punched in the sides and bottom. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the top with silt, loam or clay soil and mix in a small amount of slow-release fertilizer labeled for use with aquatic soil. Plant the rhizome close to one side of the pot at a 45-degree angle with the eye pointing up. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel, keeping the gravel away from the top of the rhizome as much as possible. The gravel keeps the soil from floating off or washing out of the pot.
Place the pot in the bottom of the pond, adjusting the depth to that recommended for your specific variety. Most call for a depth of between 6 and 18 inches. If necessary, you can raise the depth by placing the pot on top of rocks.
NOTE: For those having fish in their water garden, water lilies should NOT be potted in regular potting soil, as this contains a lot of organic material that will eventually rot and foul the water. Remove any rotting organic material from your pond or water garden, as this is a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria and pathogens and may add unwanted excess nutrients to feed algae blooms. Instead, pot water lilies, and any other pond plant, in a heavy clay soil and cover with fist sized rock, and then river rock to prevent fish from rooting around in the pot and sending the planting medium into the pond. A few simple preventative steps up front are far easier to take than trying to treat sick and dying fish later.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies are not true lilies but in the Araceae family. They are beautiful evergreen plants that produce creamy white spathes, similar to flowers. The presence of these plants in your home or garden may pose a risk to your pets, especially dogs that like to chew different plants in the landscape. How toxic is peace lily? Read this article for the answer and tips on how to protect your pet. 
How Toxic is Peace Lily?
As glorious as peace lilies are when they are blooming, there is an underlying menace in these hooded flowering plants. The presence of peace lily and dogs can be an unfriendly equation. Is peace lily toxic to dogs? All parts of the plant, from stems to leaves and even the attractive blooms, contain an irritating toxin that can be dangerous to man’s best friend, so it is best to remove or fence off an area where peace lilies grow. Peace lily isn’t technically poisonous, but it contains a compound that can be extremely bothersome to pets, children and even an adult if consumed. Even the pollen from the spadix can cause oral irritation if licked off fur and paws. The culprit is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These are also called raphides, and are needle sharp and shoot out of damaged parts of the plant. The crystals are insoluble and persistent when they contact tissue. The result is an inflammatory reaction, which can be mild to severe and accompanied by other symptoms.
Symptoms of Peace Lily Toxicity in Dogs
As if having an inflamed, irritated mouth, muzzle and throat aren’t enough, peace lily toxicity in dogs can also manifest several other symptoms. Animals may also get diarrhea, vomit and exhibit excessive drooling. In severe cases, your dog may appear to have trouble breathing due to an inflamed airway. The symptoms can be very distressing but usually don’t warrant a trip to your veterinarian. If the animal shows signs of airway discomfort or if symptoms persist, however, it is time to call your animal doctor and seek treatment. In most cases, the irritation is minor and home remedies can do the trick. If you are unsure what plant your dog may have eaten, it is also a good idea to seek the advice of your vet.
Treating Peace Lily Symptoms
If symptoms are mild and the dog is not in too much distress, make sure there are no plant parts still in its mouth. Try to rinse the dog’s mouth out and encourage drinking of water. Ice chips can ease the discomfort or even ice cream. If the animal is experiencing difficulty breathing, you should take it to the veterinarian. Steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs are the usual prescription. Once your animal is comfortable, take steps to remove peace lily and dogs from each other’s company. Either pot up the plants and place them in a high location or simply remove them from the landscape. Determining how to deal with the problem also depends upon how successfully your dog learned from its lesson. In most cases, the animal will never go near the plant again.
How Toxic is Peace Lily?
As glorious as peace lilies are when they are blooming, there is an underlying menace in these hooded flowering plants. The presence of peace lily and dogs can be an unfriendly equation. Is peace lily toxic to dogs? All parts of the plant, from stems to leaves and even the attractive blooms, contain an irritating toxin that can be dangerous to man’s best friend, so it is best to remove or fence off an area where peace lilies grow. Peace lily isn’t technically poisonous, but it contains a compound that can be extremely bothersome to pets, children and even an adult if consumed. Even the pollen from the spadix can cause oral irritation if licked off fur and paws. The culprit is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These are also called raphides, and are needle sharp and shoot out of damaged parts of the plant. The crystals are insoluble and persistent when they contact tissue. The result is an inflammatory reaction, which can be mild to severe and accompanied by other symptoms.
Symptoms of Peace Lily Toxicity in Dogs
As if having an inflamed, irritated mouth, muzzle and throat aren’t enough, peace lily toxicity in dogs can also manifest several other symptoms. Animals may also get diarrhea, vomit and exhibit excessive drooling. In severe cases, your dog may appear to have trouble breathing due to an inflamed airway. The symptoms can be very distressing but usually don’t warrant a trip to your veterinarian. If the animal shows signs of airway discomfort or if symptoms persist, however, it is time to call your animal doctor and seek treatment. In most cases, the irritation is minor and home remedies can do the trick. If you are unsure what plant your dog may have eaten, it is also a good idea to seek the advice of your vet.
Treating Peace Lily Symptoms
If symptoms are mild and the dog is not in too much distress, make sure there are no plant parts still in its mouth. Try to rinse the dog’s mouth out and encourage drinking of water. Ice chips can ease the discomfort or even ice cream. If the animal is experiencing difficulty breathing, you should take it to the veterinarian. Steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs are the usual prescription. Once your animal is comfortable, take steps to remove peace lily and dogs from each other’s company. Either pot up the plants and place them in a high location or simply remove them from the landscape. Determining how to deal with the problem also depends upon how successfully your dog learned from its lesson. In most cases, the animal will never go near the plant again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies are excellent houseplants. They’re easy to care for, they do well in low light, and they’ve been proven by NASA to help purify the air around them. But what do you do when the flowers or even the leaves start to dry up and die? Should peace lilies be pruned? Keep reading to learn more about when and how to prune peace lily plants.
Peace Lily Pruning
Peace lilies are known for their big white bracts, the part we think of as a flower that is actually a modified white leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers on a stalk. After this “flower” has bloomed for a while, it will naturally start to turn green and droop. This is normal, and it just means the flower is spent.
You can clean up the appearance of the plant by deadheading. Peace lilies produce their flowers on stalks that grow up from the base of the plant. Once a stalk has made one flower, it won’t make any more – after the flower fades, the stalk will eventually brown and die as well. Peace lily pruning should be done at the base of the plant. Cut the stalk off as close to the bottom as you can. This will make room for new stalks to emerge.
Pruning a peace lily isn’t limited to the flower stalks. Sometimes leaves yellow and start to shrivel up. This may be due to under watering or too much light, but it can also happen just because of old age. If any of your leaves are turning color or drying out, just cut the offending leaves away at their base. Always disinfect your shears between each cut to prevent the spread of disease. That’s all there is to pruning peace lilies. Nothing too complicated and a very good way to keep your plants looking healthy and happy.
Peace Lily Pruning
Peace lilies are known for their big white bracts, the part we think of as a flower that is actually a modified white leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers on a stalk. After this “flower” has bloomed for a while, it will naturally start to turn green and droop. This is normal, and it just means the flower is spent.
You can clean up the appearance of the plant by deadheading. Peace lilies produce their flowers on stalks that grow up from the base of the plant. Once a stalk has made one flower, it won’t make any more – after the flower fades, the stalk will eventually brown and die as well. Peace lily pruning should be done at the base of the plant. Cut the stalk off as close to the bottom as you can. This will make room for new stalks to emerge.
Pruning a peace lily isn’t limited to the flower stalks. Sometimes leaves yellow and start to shrivel up. This may be due to under watering or too much light, but it can also happen just because of old age. If any of your leaves are turning color or drying out, just cut the offending leaves away at their base. Always disinfect your shears between each cut to prevent the spread of disease. That’s all there is to pruning peace lilies. Nothing too complicated and a very good way to keep your plants looking healthy and happy.
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