文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月17日
'Casa Blanca' is a beloved hybrid Oriental lily which is part of the Lilium genus. Its gorgeous flowering bulbs bloom in mid to late summer after the Asiatic lilies, which earlier in the season. Both types of lilies are easy to grow. 'Casa Blanca' has firm leaves with very large and noticeably fragrant flowers.
Oriental cultivars like the 'Casa Blanca' thrive in cooler regions, can tolerate poorer soil conditions, and have larger flowers atop exceptionally tall stems that grow three to four feet tall. Each stem produces six to eight blooms.
Each "Casa Blanca' flower has six gleaming white petals with reddish-brown anthers. As it blooms, every large eight-inch broad petal curls outwards, beaming beautifully in the summer sun.
Very fragrant on strong, dark green stems, they make exceptional fresh cut flowers often used by florists and in bridal bouquets. Hardy in USDA Zones 5 through 8 ( and sometimes even 4 and 9), this bulbous perennial is grown widely and vigorously in containers and in garden beds.
Learn to care for the ravishing 'Casa Blanca' Lily and watch it add richness and texture to your landscape, perhaps even in a moon garden.
Botanical Name Lilium 'Casa Blanca'
Common Name Casa Blanca Lily
Plant Type Oriental hybrid lily (bulbous, herbaceous perennial)
Mature Size Three to four feet tall, one foot wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to light shade
Soil Type Organic, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic or neutral soil
Bloom Time Mid to late summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones USDA 4-9
Native Area Europe, North America and Asia south to the Philippines
Toxicity Toxic to cats
Planting Instructions
Plant 'Casa Blanca' bulbs in spring in colder zones (zones 4-7) and in the spring or fall in milder climates. Space bulbs ten inches apart and dig planting holes six to eight inches deep.
Plant in small groups of three bulbs for a beautiful display. These lilies are easy to grow in a perennial border and grow equally well in containers where they can tolerate crowding.
With proper care, 'Casa Blanca' lily bulbs will bloom in their first year.
Light
This lily prefers full sun but will also grow in part sun to part shade. Ideally, the top of the plant should receive plenty of sunlight, six to eight hours per day, while the lower part is shaded by other lower-growing plants to prevent the bulbs from drying out.
Plants might need staking if grown in too much shade, which produces weaker stems.
Soil
The 'Casa Blanca' lily grows in just about any average, well-drained but moist, garden soil. If soil is heavy and does not drain well, consider planting the bulbs in a raised bed. Mulch the area to keep roots cool and preserve moisture.
Water
Water plants regularly so that the soil stays moist, and don't let the soil dry out. Do not overwater; these plants do not tolerate boggy conditions.
Fertilizer
When new growth appears in spring, feed plants with a low-nitrogen, well-balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer. During the growing season, feed plants every two weeks.
Temperature
If an especially cold winter is expected, dig up the bulbs. Store them indoors and then replant them in spring.
Cut Flowers
When cutting flowers for bouquets, choose blooms that are just about open, and clip off no more than one-third of the stem. Doing so preserves enough foliage for photosynthesis to continue producing food for the bulb. Snip off the stamens so that the brown pollen does not stain your hands or clothing.
Propagating Casa Blanca Lily
Every three or four years, blooms will likely become so large that the plants will flop over. As this weakens the stem, stake plants until flowers are finished blooming. Then, in autumn, dig up the bulbs and divide each cluster. Transplant the bulbs and spread a few inches of organic mulch on the area.
Common Pests/Diseases
Avoid overwatering and creating a boggy condition as this could cause bulbs to rot. Excessively wet weather can also cause gray mold. Like all lilies, beware of aphids spreading the lily mosaic virus, which is not curable. Hand pick lily leaf beetles.
Oriental cultivars like the 'Casa Blanca' thrive in cooler regions, can tolerate poorer soil conditions, and have larger flowers atop exceptionally tall stems that grow three to four feet tall. Each stem produces six to eight blooms.
Each "Casa Blanca' flower has six gleaming white petals with reddish-brown anthers. As it blooms, every large eight-inch broad petal curls outwards, beaming beautifully in the summer sun.
Very fragrant on strong, dark green stems, they make exceptional fresh cut flowers often used by florists and in bridal bouquets. Hardy in USDA Zones 5 through 8 ( and sometimes even 4 and 9), this bulbous perennial is grown widely and vigorously in containers and in garden beds.
Learn to care for the ravishing 'Casa Blanca' Lily and watch it add richness and texture to your landscape, perhaps even in a moon garden.
Botanical Name Lilium 'Casa Blanca'
Common Name Casa Blanca Lily
Plant Type Oriental hybrid lily (bulbous, herbaceous perennial)
Mature Size Three to four feet tall, one foot wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to light shade
Soil Type Organic, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic or neutral soil
Bloom Time Mid to late summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones USDA 4-9
Native Area Europe, North America and Asia south to the Philippines
Toxicity Toxic to cats
Planting Instructions
Plant 'Casa Blanca' bulbs in spring in colder zones (zones 4-7) and in the spring or fall in milder climates. Space bulbs ten inches apart and dig planting holes six to eight inches deep.
Plant in small groups of three bulbs for a beautiful display. These lilies are easy to grow in a perennial border and grow equally well in containers where they can tolerate crowding.
With proper care, 'Casa Blanca' lily bulbs will bloom in their first year.
Light
This lily prefers full sun but will also grow in part sun to part shade. Ideally, the top of the plant should receive plenty of sunlight, six to eight hours per day, while the lower part is shaded by other lower-growing plants to prevent the bulbs from drying out.
Plants might need staking if grown in too much shade, which produces weaker stems.
Soil
The 'Casa Blanca' lily grows in just about any average, well-drained but moist, garden soil. If soil is heavy and does not drain well, consider planting the bulbs in a raised bed. Mulch the area to keep roots cool and preserve moisture.
Water
Water plants regularly so that the soil stays moist, and don't let the soil dry out. Do not overwater; these plants do not tolerate boggy conditions.
Fertilizer
When new growth appears in spring, feed plants with a low-nitrogen, well-balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer. During the growing season, feed plants every two weeks.
Temperature
If an especially cold winter is expected, dig up the bulbs. Store them indoors and then replant them in spring.
Cut Flowers
When cutting flowers for bouquets, choose blooms that are just about open, and clip off no more than one-third of the stem. Doing so preserves enough foliage for photosynthesis to continue producing food for the bulb. Snip off the stamens so that the brown pollen does not stain your hands or clothing.
Propagating Casa Blanca Lily
Every three or four years, blooms will likely become so large that the plants will flop over. As this weakens the stem, stake plants until flowers are finished blooming. Then, in autumn, dig up the bulbs and divide each cluster. Transplant the bulbs and spread a few inches of organic mulch on the area.
Common Pests/Diseases
Avoid overwatering and creating a boggy condition as this could cause bulbs to rot. Excessively wet weather can also cause gray mold. Like all lilies, beware of aphids spreading the lily mosaic virus, which is not curable. Hand pick lily leaf beetles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月20日
Calla lilies are gracefully-shaped flowers that are sought after for both special occasion bouquets and beautiful home gardens. The blooms are truly timeless, and calla lilies have a storied history, including mentions in Greek and Roman mythology, where they were tied to both Hera, the goddess of marriage and birth, and Venus, the goddess of love and beauty.
Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall.
Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica
Common Name Calla lily, arum lily
Plant Type Rhizome
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Calla Lily Care
Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season.
Light
True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight.
Soil
A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers.
Water
Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings.
Temperature and Humidity
Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall.
Fertilizer
Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering.
Potting and Repotting Calla Lily
One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots.
Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily
Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation.
Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall.
Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica
Common Name Calla lily, arum lily
Plant Type Rhizome
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Calla Lily Care
Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season.
Light
True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight.
Soil
A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers.
Water
Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings.
Temperature and Humidity
Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall.
Fertilizer
Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering.
Potting and Repotting Calla Lily
One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots.
Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily
Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation.
Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
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文章
ritau
2020年03月26日
Lilies are genus of herbaceous flowering plants growing from bulbs, all with large prominent flowers. Lilies are a group of flowering plants which are important in culture and literature in much of the world. Most species are native to the temperate northern hemisphere, though their range extends into the northern subtropics. Many other plants have "lily" in their common name but are not related to true lilies.
Lilies are tall perennials ranging in height from 2–6 ft (60–180 cm). They form naked or tunicless scaly underground bulbs which are their organs of perennation. In some North American species the base of the bulb develops into rhizomes, on which numerous small bulbs are found. Some species develop stolons. Most bulbs are buried deep in the ground, but a few species form bulbs near the soil surface. Many species form stem-roots. With these, the bulb grows naturally at some depth in the soil, and each year the new stem puts out adventitious roots above the bulb as it emerges from the soil. These roots are in addition to the basal roots that develop at the base of the bulb.
The flowers are large, often fragrant, and come in a wide range of colors including whites, yellows, oranges, pinks, reds and purples. Markings include spots and brush strokes. The plants are late spring- or summer-flowering. Flowers are borne in racemes or umbels at the tip of the stem, with six tepals spreading or reflexed, to give flowers varying from funnel shape to a "Turk's cap". The tepals are free from each other, and bear a nectary at the base of each flower. The ovary is 'superior', borne above the point of attachment of the anthers. The fruit is a three-celled capsule.
Many species are widely grown in the garden in temperate and sub-tropical regions. They may also be grown as potted plants. Numerous ornamental hybrids have been developed. They can be used in herbaceous borders, woodland and shrub plantings, and as patio plants. Some lilies, especially Lilium longiflorum, form important cut flower crops. These may be forced for particular markets; for instance, Lilium longiflorum for the Easter trade, when it may be called the Easter lily.
Lilies are usually planted as bulbs in the dormant season. They are best planted in a south-facing (northern hemisphere), slightly sloping aspect, in sun or part shade, at a depth 2½ times the height of the bulb (except Lilium candidum which should be planted at the surface). Most prefer a porous, loamy soil, and good drainage is essential. Most species bloom in July or August (northern hemisphere). The flowering periods of certain lily species begin in late spring, while others bloom in late summer or early autumn.They have contractile roots which pull the plant down to the correct depth, therefore it is better to plant them too shallowly than too deep. A soil pH of around 6.5 is generally safe. The soil should be well-drained, and plants must be kept watered during the growing season. Some plants have strong wiry stems, but those with heavy flower heads may need staking.
Lilies are tall perennials ranging in height from 2–6 ft (60–180 cm). They form naked or tunicless scaly underground bulbs which are their organs of perennation. In some North American species the base of the bulb develops into rhizomes, on which numerous small bulbs are found. Some species develop stolons. Most bulbs are buried deep in the ground, but a few species form bulbs near the soil surface. Many species form stem-roots. With these, the bulb grows naturally at some depth in the soil, and each year the new stem puts out adventitious roots above the bulb as it emerges from the soil. These roots are in addition to the basal roots that develop at the base of the bulb.
The flowers are large, often fragrant, and come in a wide range of colors including whites, yellows, oranges, pinks, reds and purples. Markings include spots and brush strokes. The plants are late spring- or summer-flowering. Flowers are borne in racemes or umbels at the tip of the stem, with six tepals spreading or reflexed, to give flowers varying from funnel shape to a "Turk's cap". The tepals are free from each other, and bear a nectary at the base of each flower. The ovary is 'superior', borne above the point of attachment of the anthers. The fruit is a three-celled capsule.
Many species are widely grown in the garden in temperate and sub-tropical regions. They may also be grown as potted plants. Numerous ornamental hybrids have been developed. They can be used in herbaceous borders, woodland and shrub plantings, and as patio plants. Some lilies, especially Lilium longiflorum, form important cut flower crops. These may be forced for particular markets; for instance, Lilium longiflorum for the Easter trade, when it may be called the Easter lily.
Lilies are usually planted as bulbs in the dormant season. They are best planted in a south-facing (northern hemisphere), slightly sloping aspect, in sun or part shade, at a depth 2½ times the height of the bulb (except Lilium candidum which should be planted at the surface). Most prefer a porous, loamy soil, and good drainage is essential. Most species bloom in July or August (northern hemisphere). The flowering periods of certain lily species begin in late spring, while others bloom in late summer or early autumn.They have contractile roots which pull the plant down to the correct depth, therefore it is better to plant them too shallowly than too deep. A soil pH of around 6.5 is generally safe. The soil should be well-drained, and plants must be kept watered during the growing season. Some plants have strong wiry stems, but those with heavy flower heads may need staking.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Growing beautiful stargazer lilies seems like a daunting task--how can such a strikingly unique and unusually large flower that seems to defy gravity be easy to grow? It is, however, with a little instruction and a few tips, you too can bring these jaw-dropping beauties into your landscape.Stargazer lilies will last for years with the proper care, and grows easily in zones 4-8.
Determine the location for your stargazer bulbs, and for each bulb, dig a hole three times the bulb's height. Remove any rocks that might impede the growth of the stalk when it emerges. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointy side up–if in doubt, plant the bulb sideways. Cover the bulb with soil and sprinkle with a small amount of fertilizer. Bulbs may be planted in the fall or in the spring.
Step 2
Water the emerging plants regularly, although they don't mind drought periods as long as the roots remain cool. Overwatering may cause the plants to rot, so it's best to err on the side of caution as far as water is concerned.Too much water may also attract slugs, which find lily leaves delicious. If slugs are a problem, place saucers of beer around the plant at night, which attracts them and they drown.
Step 3
Fertilize the plants in June, July and August with a light application of general purpose fertilizer around the base of the plant.
Deadhead the flower after it has finished blooming, which allows the plant to focus on its bulb, not setting seeds. Simply clip off the flower and about 6 inches of the stem below the flower. Leave the rest of the stem until fall, when you can cut back the entire plant to 3 inches.
Determine the location for your stargazer bulbs, and for each bulb, dig a hole three times the bulb's height. Remove any rocks that might impede the growth of the stalk when it emerges. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointy side up–if in doubt, plant the bulb sideways. Cover the bulb with soil and sprinkle with a small amount of fertilizer. Bulbs may be planted in the fall or in the spring.
Step 2
Water the emerging plants regularly, although they don't mind drought periods as long as the roots remain cool. Overwatering may cause the plants to rot, so it's best to err on the side of caution as far as water is concerned.Too much water may also attract slugs, which find lily leaves delicious. If slugs are a problem, place saucers of beer around the plant at night, which attracts them and they drown.
Step 3
Fertilize the plants in June, July and August with a light application of general purpose fertilizer around the base of the plant.
Deadhead the flower after it has finished blooming, which allows the plant to focus on its bulb, not setting seeds. Simply clip off the flower and about 6 inches of the stem below the flower. Leave the rest of the stem until fall, when you can cut back the entire plant to 3 inches.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月07日
Hosta plants (also known as plantain lilies) are herbaceous perennials that die down in the winter months and reemerge in the spring with new growth. There are a wide variety to choose from. Hostas are shade-loving plants that grow from bulbs (or tubers). Planting them is fairly easy.
Step 1
Purchase hosta bulbs from your local nursery or from online sources (see Resources below). Read all the packaging instructions before deciding where to put your hostas. Some varieties do require some sunshine during the day. Hosta plants with a blue hue generally require more shade than some of the other types. They can be planted at any time of year, but springtime is best, when new roots are being formed.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area soil. Although the hosta is an easy plant to grow and maintain, starting with the proper soil conditions will give your plant an extra boost. The soil should be well drained, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
Step 3
Plant the hosta bulbs 12 inches or more apart and at the ground level where the shoots first emerge. Of course, the root end of the bulb should be placed down into the ground. Gently fill the area surrounding the bulb with soil and then pack lightly at ground level.
Step 4
Water your hosta bulbs often, approximately an inch of water per week. Always check with packaging directions, as some of larger-leafed varieties require more water. Fertilize at 6-week intervals through the spring and summer months with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.
Step 1
Purchase hosta bulbs from your local nursery or from online sources (see Resources below). Read all the packaging instructions before deciding where to put your hostas. Some varieties do require some sunshine during the day. Hosta plants with a blue hue generally require more shade than some of the other types. They can be planted at any time of year, but springtime is best, when new roots are being formed.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area soil. Although the hosta is an easy plant to grow and maintain, starting with the proper soil conditions will give your plant an extra boost. The soil should be well drained, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
Step 3
Plant the hosta bulbs 12 inches or more apart and at the ground level where the shoots first emerge. Of course, the root end of the bulb should be placed down into the ground. Gently fill the area surrounding the bulb with soil and then pack lightly at ground level.
Step 4
Water your hosta bulbs often, approximately an inch of water per week. Always check with packaging directions, as some of larger-leafed varieties require more water. Fertilize at 6-week intervals through the spring and summer months with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Newly transplanted day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) establish quickly, producing lush, swordlike spring and summer foliage punctuated by bright summer flowers. Day lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on the variety. Whether you are transplanting new day lilies or dividing and transplanting those you already have, doing so at the right time ensures you still get to enjoy healthy plants and a full season of flowers.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) usually bloom for three to four weeks, but shade, drought, too much fertilizer or crowding can prevent flowering. These perennials grow in upright clumps 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, and grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety. Selecting day lilies that thrive in the growing conditions in your garden gives the best chance of plentiful blooms.
Shady Spots
Day lilies growing in shady spots flower rarely or not at all. These plants flower best in sites that receive eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Day lilies grow healthily in partially shaded sites, but you'll see fewer flowers.
Grow day lilies in an area of the garden that receives at least six hours of sun. In mild and cold climates, such as USDA zones 7 and lower, there's no maximum amount of sunlight day lilies can tolerate. In USDA zones 8 and above, the plants grow and flower best with light shade, such as from a high canopy, at midday and into the afternoon. If your day lilies are growing in a shady site, remove overhanging branches and other sources of shade, or consider transplanting the plants to a brighter part of the yard.
Dry Soil
Dry soil and periods of drought prevent flowering in day lilies. Plump roots mean day lilies can survive dry soil and drought, but the plants often lose their flower buds in these conditions.
Moist soils rich in organic matter are best for growing day lilies. Spread a 3-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or well-aged manure around the plants, but don't pile the mulch against the day lily stems because this can cause rotting. Over time, worms and other soil organisms will break the mulch down and enrich the soil.
Water day lilies when the soil surface is dry. Spray water from a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment at the plant bases to penetrate dense clumps. Stop watering when the water begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Excessive Fertilizer
Day lilies don't need much fertilizer, and excessive fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Plants getting too much fertilizer often have lush, deep green leaves and look healthy but won't flower. Day lilies growing in a border next to a lawn can accidentally receive lawn fertilizer.
Don't fertilize day lilies that look healthy but aren't flowering and don't spread lawn fertilizer within 2 feet of day lilies.
Crowded Plants
Dividing crowded day lilies encourages strong growth and flowering. Reduced blooming is a sign that day lilies need dividing. This can happen every two or three years or up to every 20 years, depending on the variety. You can divide day lilies at most times of the year, but the usual time for dividing plants is spring before new growth starts.
Dig up day lily clumps with a garden fork, and split each clump into three or four sections. You can do this by pushing two garden forks down through the leaves and into the root ball, then levering the garden forks apart, or you can cut through the root ball with a sharp, clean knife. Plant the sections at their original growing depth and 18 to 24 inches apart.
Shady Spots
Day lilies growing in shady spots flower rarely or not at all. These plants flower best in sites that receive eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Day lilies grow healthily in partially shaded sites, but you'll see fewer flowers.
Grow day lilies in an area of the garden that receives at least six hours of sun. In mild and cold climates, such as USDA zones 7 and lower, there's no maximum amount of sunlight day lilies can tolerate. In USDA zones 8 and above, the plants grow and flower best with light shade, such as from a high canopy, at midday and into the afternoon. If your day lilies are growing in a shady site, remove overhanging branches and other sources of shade, or consider transplanting the plants to a brighter part of the yard.
Dry Soil
Dry soil and periods of drought prevent flowering in day lilies. Plump roots mean day lilies can survive dry soil and drought, but the plants often lose their flower buds in these conditions.
Moist soils rich in organic matter are best for growing day lilies. Spread a 3-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or well-aged manure around the plants, but don't pile the mulch against the day lily stems because this can cause rotting. Over time, worms and other soil organisms will break the mulch down and enrich the soil.
Water day lilies when the soil surface is dry. Spray water from a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment at the plant bases to penetrate dense clumps. Stop watering when the water begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Excessive Fertilizer
Day lilies don't need much fertilizer, and excessive fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Plants getting too much fertilizer often have lush, deep green leaves and look healthy but won't flower. Day lilies growing in a border next to a lawn can accidentally receive lawn fertilizer.
Don't fertilize day lilies that look healthy but aren't flowering and don't spread lawn fertilizer within 2 feet of day lilies.
Crowded Plants
Dividing crowded day lilies encourages strong growth and flowering. Reduced blooming is a sign that day lilies need dividing. This can happen every two or three years or up to every 20 years, depending on the variety. You can divide day lilies at most times of the year, but the usual time for dividing plants is spring before new growth starts.
Dig up day lily clumps with a garden fork, and split each clump into three or four sections. You can do this by pushing two garden forks down through the leaves and into the root ball, then levering the garden forks apart, or you can cut through the root ball with a sharp, clean knife. Plant the sections at their original growing depth and 18 to 24 inches apart.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Hostas--also called plaintain lilies--are low-growing foliage plants with large, showy leaves that can range in color from deep green through chartreuse into deep blue, with white, lavender or purple blooms in August. There are also variegated cultivars featuring cream, white or yellow centers or borders. Hostas excel as ground cover and add texture and interest to shaded sections of landscapes. Hostas can perform well in Texas as long as they are of the proper cultivar and don't get too much scorching summer sun.
Step 1
Choose vigorous, healthy hostas cultivars with the best chances for growing well in Texas. According to the Texas A and M University Extension, good hostas varieties for Texas gardeners include the green-leafed lancifolia and royal standard cultivars, the blue-leafed blue cadet and blue angel types and the variegated sugar and cream and so sweet varieties. Examine the plant before purchase to make sure it is free of pests and diseases.
Step 2
Choose a planting site in shade or partial sun with afternoon shade and make sure it has rich, moist soil. For more specific recommendations on sunlight, check the cultivar; blue-leaf hostas require more shade than green-leaf varieties, and too much bright sun will bleach out the leaf coloration of the yellow cultivars.
Step 3
Prepare the garden bed in the spring by using a pitchfork to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mixing in a 2 to 4-inch layer of compost.
Step 4
Dig a planting hole twice the size of the container the hosta was sold in, and place the hosta in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with garden soil and firmly tamp the soil into place but don't press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Space hostas 36 inches apart if planting more than one. Water your hostas well after planting, and continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist.
Step 5
Apply a 2 1/2-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots, conserve moisture and provide a physical barrier against disease.
Step 6
Fertilize hostas in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer in a 10-10-10 NPK formulation. According to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, the fertilizer should be applied at a rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet.
Step 7
Watch your hostas closely for damage from slugs, to which they are very susceptible. At the first sign of damage use slug bait or make a beer trap by leaving a saucer of beer by the hostas at night; slugs will crawl in and drown.
Step 1
Choose vigorous, healthy hostas cultivars with the best chances for growing well in Texas. According to the Texas A and M University Extension, good hostas varieties for Texas gardeners include the green-leafed lancifolia and royal standard cultivars, the blue-leafed blue cadet and blue angel types and the variegated sugar and cream and so sweet varieties. Examine the plant before purchase to make sure it is free of pests and diseases.
Step 2
Choose a planting site in shade or partial sun with afternoon shade and make sure it has rich, moist soil. For more specific recommendations on sunlight, check the cultivar; blue-leaf hostas require more shade than green-leaf varieties, and too much bright sun will bleach out the leaf coloration of the yellow cultivars.
Step 3
Prepare the garden bed in the spring by using a pitchfork to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mixing in a 2 to 4-inch layer of compost.
Step 4
Dig a planting hole twice the size of the container the hosta was sold in, and place the hosta in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with garden soil and firmly tamp the soil into place but don't press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Space hostas 36 inches apart if planting more than one. Water your hostas well after planting, and continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist.
Step 5
Apply a 2 1/2-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots, conserve moisture and provide a physical barrier against disease.
Step 6
Fertilize hostas in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer in a 10-10-10 NPK formulation. According to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, the fertilizer should be applied at a rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet.
Step 7
Watch your hostas closely for damage from slugs, to which they are very susceptible. At the first sign of damage use slug bait or make a beer trap by leaving a saucer of beer by the hostas at night; slugs will crawl in and drown.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Each spring a new batch of Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum) arrives just in time for their namesake holiday. Although many people treat them as annuals, the website Flower Garden Bulbs states they are perennials into U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4.
Timeframe
Professional nurseries are experts at forcing Easter lilies to bloom right in time for Easter, whether it falls in March or April. As a perennial, your Easter lily will probably not bloom until June or July of the following year.
Procedure
Keep your potted plant in the house out of direct sunlight in a room that is about 65 degrees and away from drafts or heating ducts. Remove the foil or plastic casing around the pot when you water the plant to avoid drowning your lily. To enjoy your Easter lily as a perennial, plant the bulbs late in the spring after all danger of frost is over. Plant the bulbs about 3 inches below the soil and 12 to 18 inches apart.
Expert Insight
To help ensure that your Easter lily survives into another year in colder areas, protect it through the winter. The Texas Agrilife Extensive Service recommends a mulch of straw, pine needles, leaves, boxes and bags; remove when the plant sprouts in spring.
Timeframe
Professional nurseries are experts at forcing Easter lilies to bloom right in time for Easter, whether it falls in March or April. As a perennial, your Easter lily will probably not bloom until June or July of the following year.
Procedure
Keep your potted plant in the house out of direct sunlight in a room that is about 65 degrees and away from drafts or heating ducts. Remove the foil or plastic casing around the pot when you water the plant to avoid drowning your lily. To enjoy your Easter lily as a perennial, plant the bulbs late in the spring after all danger of frost is over. Plant the bulbs about 3 inches below the soil and 12 to 18 inches apart.
Expert Insight
To help ensure that your Easter lily survives into another year in colder areas, protect it through the winter. The Texas Agrilife Extensive Service recommends a mulch of straw, pine needles, leaves, boxes and bags; remove when the plant sprouts in spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Lilies (Lilium spp.) produce tall stems lined with many lance-like leaves and produce a cluster of flowers in late spring to early fall, depending on species. Over 100 lily species exist and hundreds more hybrid cultivars, such as those known as LA Hybrid, Asiatic or Orienpet lilies. Deadheading is the process of trimming off old, withering flowers with the hope of encouraging reblooming. Deadheading lilies is for aesthetic purposes only; lilies do not rebloom once their primary flowering display ends.
Reasons to Deadhead
A gardener does not need to deadhead lilies in order for the plant to remain healthy. People concerned with tidy garden appearance may choose to trim off old, spent lily flowers from the stem tips to make the plant look better. Lily flowers that are not cut off will develop into a three-chamber capsule that forms seeds. If you want the clump of lily plants to grow more robust, cut off the seed capsules so the plant energy goes into developing larger bulbs in the ground. Otherwise, resources are put into producing seeds.
How to Deadhead Lilies
The structure and form of flowers on lilies vary by species, so take the time to examine the flower tip on plant stems before deadheading. You may opt to pluck off old lily blossoms one at a time by snipping them off where the short stem attaches to the main flower stem or stalk. Or, you can wait for all flowers in the lily cluster to wither before making one cut to trim off the upper reaches of the lily stalk.
Caveats
Do not cut off more of the main leafy stem stalk of a lily than necessary to remove the old flowering tip. You want as many leaves to remain as possible, since they make carbohydrates from sunlight that replenishes and enlarges the underground lily bulbs. Lily bulbs produce daughter bulbs at their base during the summer, thereby increasing the clump. In subsequent years, multiple large lily bulbs grow and produce more flowers than a lone lily bulb.
Insights on Other Plants Called Lily
Horticulturists refer to species in the genus Lilium as "true lilies." Other members in the larger lily family, Liliaceae, and other plant families are also given common names of lily. Daylily, Peruvian lily, waterlily, lily-of-the-Nile, lily-of-the-valley, calla lily and toad lily are examples. These types of "false" lilies may or may not benefit from deadheading -- it depends on the individual species.
Reasons to Deadhead
A gardener does not need to deadhead lilies in order for the plant to remain healthy. People concerned with tidy garden appearance may choose to trim off old, spent lily flowers from the stem tips to make the plant look better. Lily flowers that are not cut off will develop into a three-chamber capsule that forms seeds. If you want the clump of lily plants to grow more robust, cut off the seed capsules so the plant energy goes into developing larger bulbs in the ground. Otherwise, resources are put into producing seeds.
How to Deadhead Lilies
The structure and form of flowers on lilies vary by species, so take the time to examine the flower tip on plant stems before deadheading. You may opt to pluck off old lily blossoms one at a time by snipping them off where the short stem attaches to the main flower stem or stalk. Or, you can wait for all flowers in the lily cluster to wither before making one cut to trim off the upper reaches of the lily stalk.
Caveats
Do not cut off more of the main leafy stem stalk of a lily than necessary to remove the old flowering tip. You want as many leaves to remain as possible, since they make carbohydrates from sunlight that replenishes and enlarges the underground lily bulbs. Lily bulbs produce daughter bulbs at their base during the summer, thereby increasing the clump. In subsequent years, multiple large lily bulbs grow and produce more flowers than a lone lily bulb.
Insights on Other Plants Called Lily
Horticulturists refer to species in the genus Lilium as "true lilies." Other members in the larger lily family, Liliaceae, and other plant families are also given common names of lily. Daylily, Peruvian lily, waterlily, lily-of-the-Nile, lily-of-the-valley, calla lily and toad lily are examples. These types of "false" lilies may or may not benefit from deadheading -- it depends on the individual species.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
Stargazer lilies produce 6- to 8-inch blooms and a delightful fragrance. The blossoms are red with a white border. Stargazers are one of the most expensive flowers that florists sell, according to the Iowa State University Extension.
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Geography
Stargazer lilies grow in a variety of climates in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9. They need full sun and well-drained soil.
Planting the Bulbs
Buy from a plant nursery that has cold-treated the Stargazer bulbs, which increases the likelihood of the plant blooming during the first summer. Plant the bulbs immediately and at least 8 inches apart. If you buy frozen bulbs, thaw them before planting.
Sprouting
Several factors determine when the bulbs will sprout, such as the density of surrounding bulbs, amount of sunlight, temperatures and planting time. These particular bulbs never go dormant, so they'll begin to sprout roots when you plant them. It takes up to 3 weeks for the plant to sprout through the ground.
Fun Fact
Stargazer lilies make excellent cut flowers. Remove the anthers, which contain the pollen, and the flowers will live longer in a vase.
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Geography
Stargazer lilies grow in a variety of climates in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9. They need full sun and well-drained soil.
Planting the Bulbs
Buy from a plant nursery that has cold-treated the Stargazer bulbs, which increases the likelihood of the plant blooming during the first summer. Plant the bulbs immediately and at least 8 inches apart. If you buy frozen bulbs, thaw them before planting.
Sprouting
Several factors determine when the bulbs will sprout, such as the density of surrounding bulbs, amount of sunlight, temperatures and planting time. These particular bulbs never go dormant, so they'll begin to sprout roots when you plant them. It takes up to 3 weeks for the plant to sprout through the ground.
Fun Fact
Stargazer lilies make excellent cut flowers. Remove the anthers, which contain the pollen, and the flowers will live longer in a vase.
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成长记
MichelleMarie
2018年01月08日
I now added "Hybrid impatience removed with Asian Lilies" in my "garden"
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Garden lilies provide elegant color beginning with bright Asiatic hybrids in June, through summer's regal Orientals and early fall's towering tiger lilies. The lovely lily is a tough customer, too. It grows from bulbs that not only bear nutrients for the succeeding season but act as vegetative propagation backup if seed production fails.
Multiplication by Seed
Lilies, like other flowering plants, propagate sexually by growing seeds in ovaries after pollen is transferred by passing insects, animals or weather from stamens to the central pistil. Successfully fertilized seeds ripen in pods throughout the summer and fall to the ground when the lily stalks die back in early winter. New plants rise from seeds the following spring if conditions are right, but plants may have to grow for two or three years before bulbs form and become large enough to support blooms. Species lilies multiply by seed annually but some hybrid lilies set seed only occasionally.
About Lily Bulbs
Garden hybrid lilies and the wild, or species, lilies from which they are descended grow from true bulbs, The lily's tunicate bulb grows from the interior and the outer layer, or tunic, dries and protects the growing bulb. Most lilies have energy left over to create new bulbs from which new lily plants rise. New bulbs grow larger each year until their plants also bear blooms. As new bulbs become larger, though, more bulbs compete for a finite amount of nutrients and bloom declines. Lilies take differing periods of time to multiply by vegetative propagation according to species and whether plants start from bulbils, bulblets or mature bulb divisions.
Bulbils and Bulblets
Some types of lilies, such as tiger lilies, grow tiny bulbils in the notch formed at the intersection of leaves with the plant's singular stalk. It might take a seed a year to develop into a tunicate bulb but bulbils grow yearly. In fall, bulbils fall from the plant and begin developing roots that will pull them into the ground before winter. Another junior bulb, known as a bulblet, grows around the base of the parent bulb or on the underground portion of the lily plant stalk. Bulblets are the ultimate backup: they strip away from a stalk or bulb pulled out of the ground by a hungry animal or careless gardener and scatter. Within a year or two, new plants grow large enough to bloom.
Bulb Divisions
Left alone, bulblets grow unto bulbs and grow new plants next to the parent. For this reason, gardeners choose to lift and divide bulbs to move newly mare bulbs to bloom in new positions and keep plants blooming in the original space. How often gardeners lift bulbs depends on the rate of creation and growth of bulblets that form around the base of the tunicate bulb. Most Asiatic and Oriental hybrids will form clumps that bloom for many years before bloom declines. Some are ready for splitting after two or three years. Mature bulbs bloom the summer following division.
Multiplication by Seed
Lilies, like other flowering plants, propagate sexually by growing seeds in ovaries after pollen is transferred by passing insects, animals or weather from stamens to the central pistil. Successfully fertilized seeds ripen in pods throughout the summer and fall to the ground when the lily stalks die back in early winter. New plants rise from seeds the following spring if conditions are right, but plants may have to grow for two or three years before bulbs form and become large enough to support blooms. Species lilies multiply by seed annually but some hybrid lilies set seed only occasionally.
About Lily Bulbs
Garden hybrid lilies and the wild, or species, lilies from which they are descended grow from true bulbs, The lily's tunicate bulb grows from the interior and the outer layer, or tunic, dries and protects the growing bulb. Most lilies have energy left over to create new bulbs from which new lily plants rise. New bulbs grow larger each year until their plants also bear blooms. As new bulbs become larger, though, more bulbs compete for a finite amount of nutrients and bloom declines. Lilies take differing periods of time to multiply by vegetative propagation according to species and whether plants start from bulbils, bulblets or mature bulb divisions.
Bulbils and Bulblets
Some types of lilies, such as tiger lilies, grow tiny bulbils in the notch formed at the intersection of leaves with the plant's singular stalk. It might take a seed a year to develop into a tunicate bulb but bulbils grow yearly. In fall, bulbils fall from the plant and begin developing roots that will pull them into the ground before winter. Another junior bulb, known as a bulblet, grows around the base of the parent bulb or on the underground portion of the lily plant stalk. Bulblets are the ultimate backup: they strip away from a stalk or bulb pulled out of the ground by a hungry animal or careless gardener and scatter. Within a year or two, new plants grow large enough to bloom.
Bulb Divisions
Left alone, bulblets grow unto bulbs and grow new plants next to the parent. For this reason, gardeners choose to lift and divide bulbs to move newly mare bulbs to bloom in new positions and keep plants blooming in the original space. How often gardeners lift bulbs depends on the rate of creation and growth of bulblets that form around the base of the tunicate bulb. Most Asiatic and Oriental hybrids will form clumps that bloom for many years before bloom declines. Some are ready for splitting after two or three years. Mature bulbs bloom the summer following division.
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