文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Also called red spot or measles, this disease affects all aboveground parts of the peony. Caused by the fungal pathogen, Cladosporium paeoniae, this disease occurs each spring just before bloom. It is mostly found on older varieties and is not immediately lethal, though repeated bouts for several years will affect plant vitality. It does not cause early leaf drop or stem dieback but causes the plant to be unsightly and lose its attractiveness as spots coalesce to form blighted areas.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Small, circular, red or purplish spots first appear superficially on the upper surface of young leaves. Later in the season they coalesce into large, glossy, irregular, dark purple blotches while the underside of the leaves becomes a dull chestnut brown. Short reddish-brown streaks appear on the young stems and petioles, and eventually the whole plant may be affected with purplish or brownish red spots.
Life Cycle
The late-season blotch phase provides the overwintering inoculum for the next year's infection, especially in older varieties. Fungicides work only to prevent infection; once the disease takes hold, there is no treatment.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove debris. Be sure to remove all foliage to ground level each fall and destroy. Infected debris should not be added to the compost pile.
2. Apply fungicides. When the shoots are 2–4 inches high and the weather is cool, overcast, and damp, spray weekly with a fungicide until the flowers open. Reapply following rain or overhead watering. Mancozeb is currently registered for controlling peony blotch.
3. Resistant varieties. Replant with newer resistant varieties that are vigorous and thick-stemmed.
4. Watering and air circulation. Provide good air circulation by proper spacing of plants and foliage thinning to reduce humidity and promote leaf drying. Water early in the day, so that leaves dry thoroughly by night; drip irrigation is best.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Small, circular, red or purplish spots first appear superficially on the upper surface of young leaves. Later in the season they coalesce into large, glossy, irregular, dark purple blotches while the underside of the leaves becomes a dull chestnut brown. Short reddish-brown streaks appear on the young stems and petioles, and eventually the whole plant may be affected with purplish or brownish red spots.
Life Cycle
The late-season blotch phase provides the overwintering inoculum for the next year's infection, especially in older varieties. Fungicides work only to prevent infection; once the disease takes hold, there is no treatment.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove debris. Be sure to remove all foliage to ground level each fall and destroy. Infected debris should not be added to the compost pile.
2. Apply fungicides. When the shoots are 2–4 inches high and the weather is cool, overcast, and damp, spray weekly with a fungicide until the flowers open. Reapply following rain or overhead watering. Mancozeb is currently registered for controlling peony blotch.
3. Resistant varieties. Replant with newer resistant varieties that are vigorous and thick-stemmed.
4. Watering and air circulation. Provide good air circulation by proper spacing of plants and foliage thinning to reduce humidity and promote leaf drying. Water early in the day, so that leaves dry thoroughly by night; drip irrigation is best.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Pea-sized brown flower buds characteristic of bud-blast on peony (Paeonia)
A frequent problem on peonies is failure of flower buds to open in spring. Typically, the flower buds develop to about the size of a pea and then fail to develop further. There are several possible causes. In a narrower interpretation bud-blast only includes environmental and cultural problems. In a broad interpretation bud-blast includes fungal diseases that affect flower buds. Following are the most common reasons why peony buds may fail to open.
Botrytis blight
Botrytis blight, also called gray mold, is a common fungal disease of many plants including peonies. It commonly affects the new shoots and foliage of peonies (see Botrytis Blight of Peony herein) but can also affect young flower buds. The young buds turn brown and fail to open. Once affected, a flower bud cannot be saved. To address the disease in subsequent years follow the practices outlined in "Botrytis Blight of Peony."
Cold temperatures in early spring
When the young peony flower buds are subjected to cold temperatures in early spring as they begin to develop growth may stop when they are about the size of a pea. They may take on a reddish appearance but do not become brown and papery as in botrytis blight. Nor do they develop the gray mold characteristic of botrytis blight. Later in the season, however, the buds will brown and fall off. If possible, relocate peonies to a location where they are less subject to late spring freezes or protect plants when freezing temperatures are forecast.
Too much shade, lack of proper fertilization, or drought
Anything that stresses the plant could result in bud-blast. This can include too much shade – peonies prefer full sun, lack of adequate fertilization in poor soil, or a period of drought when the plants are making active growth and buds are developing in spring. Provide the plants with adequate sun, fertilizer and moisture, especially in early spring when they are making active growth.
Plants are too young or have been recently divided
Newly planted or divided and transplanted peonies may take a year or two to become established before they flower normally. Be patient and give the plants good care.
Organic Strategies
Since bud-blast of peony is most often caused by environmental stresses, correcting the source of stress is the best way to prevent it. Proper site selection, as well as good division, planting and watering techniques are all organic approaches to preventing this condition. Proper fertilization is also recommended, and the use of organic fertilizers would be a viable organic approach as well.
A frequent problem on peonies is failure of flower buds to open in spring. Typically, the flower buds develop to about the size of a pea and then fail to develop further. There are several possible causes. In a narrower interpretation bud-blast only includes environmental and cultural problems. In a broad interpretation bud-blast includes fungal diseases that affect flower buds. Following are the most common reasons why peony buds may fail to open.
Botrytis blight
Botrytis blight, also called gray mold, is a common fungal disease of many plants including peonies. It commonly affects the new shoots and foliage of peonies (see Botrytis Blight of Peony herein) but can also affect young flower buds. The young buds turn brown and fail to open. Once affected, a flower bud cannot be saved. To address the disease in subsequent years follow the practices outlined in "Botrytis Blight of Peony."
Cold temperatures in early spring
When the young peony flower buds are subjected to cold temperatures in early spring as they begin to develop growth may stop when they are about the size of a pea. They may take on a reddish appearance but do not become brown and papery as in botrytis blight. Nor do they develop the gray mold characteristic of botrytis blight. Later in the season, however, the buds will brown and fall off. If possible, relocate peonies to a location where they are less subject to late spring freezes or protect plants when freezing temperatures are forecast.
Too much shade, lack of proper fertilization, or drought
Anything that stresses the plant could result in bud-blast. This can include too much shade – peonies prefer full sun, lack of adequate fertilization in poor soil, or a period of drought when the plants are making active growth and buds are developing in spring. Provide the plants with adequate sun, fertilizer and moisture, especially in early spring when they are making active growth.
Plants are too young or have been recently divided
Newly planted or divided and transplanted peonies may take a year or two to become established before they flower normally. Be patient and give the plants good care.
Organic Strategies
Since bud-blast of peony is most often caused by environmental stresses, correcting the source of stress is the best way to prevent it. Proper site selection, as well as good division, planting and watering techniques are all organic approaches to preventing this condition. Proper fertilization is also recommended, and the use of organic fertilizers would be a viable organic approach as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Botrytis blight on peony foliage (Paeonia)
Gray mold or botrytis blight is caused by the fungus, Botrytis paeoniae. It is the most common disease of garden peonies. This destructive disease is very prevalent during damp, rainy seasons.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
On peonies afflicted with botrytis, the young shoots rot off at ground level when they are 5 to 8 inches tall. The stems often have a water-soaked, cankerous appearance. The leafy shoots wilt suddenly and fall over. The rotted portion of the plant will become covered with a soft brown or blackish mass of spores. Just above the ground level, the stalk will be covered with a gray mold which sheds large numbers of spores. The spores are carried by wind and insects to young leaves and flower buds and cause a leaf blight and bud rot. Small buds that are affected turn black and wither. Larger buds turn brown and fail to open. During a severe outbreak of the disease, 90% of the buds fail to develop. Open flowers are affected occasionally, and they also turn brown and later develop a covering of gray mold.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi are both saprophytic and parasitic. The spore-producing structures of the fungus develop along the base of the rotting stalks and survive in debris left in the garden over the winter. In the spring, spores form and spread to dying, wounded, or extremely soft plant tissues. As the disease progresses, a gray mold develops. The gray mold is made up of spores that are either wind-blown or splashed onto new tissues and infect.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prevent infection. In early fall, cut down all old leaves and stalks to ground level. This debris should be destroyed and not composted. Apply 1 to 2 inches of mulch to bury debris.
2. Improve soil drainage. Plant peonies in welldrained soil; heavy clay soils should be lightened with organic material such as compost or peat moss. They should not be planted so that water is apt to cover their bases, nor should soil be heaped about the leaf bases.
3. Move plants to a better location. Good air circulation can reduce disease problems. Plant in full sun or at least in part sun. Space plants widely, at least 3 feet apart. Remove aging leaves from plants.
4.Use disease-free roots. When planting new plants, buy only from reputable dealers, or take divisions only from healthy, disease-free plants.
5. Use a fungicide. Spray the plants with a fungicide when young tips break through the ground. Follow 2 weeks later with another application and every 14 days thereafter until mid-June. Pesticides registered for use include copper, captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), mancozeb, maneb, sulfur, and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336). Fungicides must be applied in advance of the disease as a protectant.
6. Look for varieties that show some resistance to the disease.
Gray mold or botrytis blight is caused by the fungus, Botrytis paeoniae. It is the most common disease of garden peonies. This destructive disease is very prevalent during damp, rainy seasons.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
On peonies afflicted with botrytis, the young shoots rot off at ground level when they are 5 to 8 inches tall. The stems often have a water-soaked, cankerous appearance. The leafy shoots wilt suddenly and fall over. The rotted portion of the plant will become covered with a soft brown or blackish mass of spores. Just above the ground level, the stalk will be covered with a gray mold which sheds large numbers of spores. The spores are carried by wind and insects to young leaves and flower buds and cause a leaf blight and bud rot. Small buds that are affected turn black and wither. Larger buds turn brown and fail to open. During a severe outbreak of the disease, 90% of the buds fail to develop. Open flowers are affected occasionally, and they also turn brown and later develop a covering of gray mold.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi are both saprophytic and parasitic. The spore-producing structures of the fungus develop along the base of the rotting stalks and survive in debris left in the garden over the winter. In the spring, spores form and spread to dying, wounded, or extremely soft plant tissues. As the disease progresses, a gray mold develops. The gray mold is made up of spores that are either wind-blown or splashed onto new tissues and infect.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prevent infection. In early fall, cut down all old leaves and stalks to ground level. This debris should be destroyed and not composted. Apply 1 to 2 inches of mulch to bury debris.
2. Improve soil drainage. Plant peonies in welldrained soil; heavy clay soils should be lightened with organic material such as compost or peat moss. They should not be planted so that water is apt to cover their bases, nor should soil be heaped about the leaf bases.
3. Move plants to a better location. Good air circulation can reduce disease problems. Plant in full sun or at least in part sun. Space plants widely, at least 3 feet apart. Remove aging leaves from plants.
4.Use disease-free roots. When planting new plants, buy only from reputable dealers, or take divisions only from healthy, disease-free plants.
5. Use a fungicide. Spray the plants with a fungicide when young tips break through the ground. Follow 2 weeks later with another application and every 14 days thereafter until mid-June. Pesticides registered for use include copper, captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), mancozeb, maneb, sulfur, and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336). Fungicides must be applied in advance of the disease as a protectant.
6. Look for varieties that show some resistance to the disease.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Camassia
Camassia is a perfect plant for extending the spring bulb season. It produces spires of beautiful purple or blue flowers in late spring and early summer -- right alongside favorites such as allium, peony, and iris. There are a handful of varieties available; give your garden a boost by selecting one with variegated foliage.
Camassia does best in full sun or part shade in moist soil. In fact, it tolerates clay and wet conditions better than most other spring bulbs. Camassia is native to areas of North America.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:From 1 to 8 feet
WIDTH:To 1 foot wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, White
SEASONAL FEATURES:Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant
SPECIAL FEATURES:Cut Flowers, Good for Containers
ZONES:3-10
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Paeonia
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Peony flowers are perennials that come back every spring to take your breath away. The plants may live longer than you do—some have been known to thrive for 100 years.
Peony plants require little maintenance as long as they are planted properly and establish themselves; they do not respond well to transplanting.
They’re hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. In most of the country, the rules for success are simply full sun and well-drained soil. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for bud formation.
Peonies make fine sentinels lining walkways and a lovely low hedge. After its stunning bloom, the peony’s bushy clump of handsome glossy green leaves lasts all summer, and then turns purplish or gold in the fall, as stately and dignified as any shrub.
In mixed borders, peonies bloom with columbines, baptisias, and veronicas, and combine well with irises and roses. Plant white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots; set off pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.
PLANTING
When to Plant Peonies
Plant peonies in the fall: in late September and October in most of the country, and even later in the South. (If you must move an established plant, this is the time.)
Peonies should be settled into place before the first hard frost. Spring-planted peonies just don’t do as well, experts agree; they generally lag about a year behind those planted in the fall.
How to Plant Peonies
Grow peonies in deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist soil that drains well. Soil pH should be neutral.
The soil will benefit from the addition of organic material in the planting hole. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about 1 cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp soil firmly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Peonies are not fussy, but choose your location wisely, as they resent disturbance. Provide shelter from strong winds. Plant away from trees or shrubs as peonies don’t like to compete for food and moisture. Space them three to four feet apart for good air circulation.
Peonies like full sun, and though they can manage with half a day, they bloom best in a sunny spot.
Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with three to five eyes, divisions of a three- or four-year-old plant.
Dig a generous-sized hole, about two feet deep and two feet across in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about one cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp it firmly.
Set the root so the eyes face upward on top of the firmed soil, placing the root just 2 inches below the soil surface. (In southern states, choose early-blooming varieties, plant them about an inch deep, and provide some shade.)
Don’t plant too deep! In most of the country, the peony’s eyes (buds) should be no deeper than 1-½ to 2 inches below the soil line.
Then, backfill the hole, taking care that the soil doesn’t settle and bury the root deeper than 2 inches.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Like children, young peonies take time to develop. They usually need a few years to establish themselves, bloom, and grow.
Peonies thrive on benign neglect. Unlike most perennials, they don’t need to be dug and divided.
Spare the fertilizer. Work the soil well before you plant, mixing in a little fertilizer, and that should be enough.
If your soil is poor, the time to apply fertilizer (bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) is early summer, after the peonies have bloomed and you have deadheaded. Don’t fertilize more than every few years.
Help the stems. If peonies have any structural weakness, it is their stems, which are sometimes not strong enough to support their gigantic blossoms. Consider three-legged metal peony rings that allow the plant to grow through the center of the rings.
Deadhead peony blossoms as soon as they begin to fade, cutting to a strong leaf so that the stem doesn’t stick out of the foliage. Cut the foliage to the ground in the fall to avoid any overwintering disease.
Don’t smother peonies with mulch. Where cold temperatures are severe, for the first winter after planting you can mulch VERY loosely with pine needles or shredded bark. Remove mulch in the spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Peonies are generally very hardy. They are susceptible to Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot, Botrytis blight, leaf blotch, Japanese beetle, and nematodes.
Many gardeners wonder why so many ants crawl on the peony buds. They are eating nectar in exchange for attacking bud-eating pests. Never spray the ants; they’re helping you nurture peonies to bloom!
Luckily, peonies are also one of many deer-resistant plants you can grow in your garden.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Peony flowers are perennials that come back every spring to take your breath away. The plants may live longer than you do—some have been known to thrive for 100 years.
Peony plants require little maintenance as long as they are planted properly and establish themselves; they do not respond well to transplanting.
They’re hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. In most of the country, the rules for success are simply full sun and well-drained soil. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for bud formation.
Peonies make fine sentinels lining walkways and a lovely low hedge. After its stunning bloom, the peony’s bushy clump of handsome glossy green leaves lasts all summer, and then turns purplish or gold in the fall, as stately and dignified as any shrub.
In mixed borders, peonies bloom with columbines, baptisias, and veronicas, and combine well with irises and roses. Plant white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots; set off pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.
PLANTING
When to Plant Peonies
Plant peonies in the fall: in late September and October in most of the country, and even later in the South. (If you must move an established plant, this is the time.)
Peonies should be settled into place before the first hard frost. Spring-planted peonies just don’t do as well, experts agree; they generally lag about a year behind those planted in the fall.
How to Plant Peonies
Grow peonies in deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist soil that drains well. Soil pH should be neutral.
The soil will benefit from the addition of organic material in the planting hole. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about 1 cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp soil firmly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Peonies are not fussy, but choose your location wisely, as they resent disturbance. Provide shelter from strong winds. Plant away from trees or shrubs as peonies don’t like to compete for food and moisture. Space them three to four feet apart for good air circulation.
Peonies like full sun, and though they can manage with half a day, they bloom best in a sunny spot.
Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with three to five eyes, divisions of a three- or four-year-old plant.
Dig a generous-sized hole, about two feet deep and two feet across in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about one cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp it firmly.
Set the root so the eyes face upward on top of the firmed soil, placing the root just 2 inches below the soil surface. (In southern states, choose early-blooming varieties, plant them about an inch deep, and provide some shade.)
Don’t plant too deep! In most of the country, the peony’s eyes (buds) should be no deeper than 1-½ to 2 inches below the soil line.
Then, backfill the hole, taking care that the soil doesn’t settle and bury the root deeper than 2 inches.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Like children, young peonies take time to develop. They usually need a few years to establish themselves, bloom, and grow.
Peonies thrive on benign neglect. Unlike most perennials, they don’t need to be dug and divided.
Spare the fertilizer. Work the soil well before you plant, mixing in a little fertilizer, and that should be enough.
If your soil is poor, the time to apply fertilizer (bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) is early summer, after the peonies have bloomed and you have deadheaded. Don’t fertilize more than every few years.
Help the stems. If peonies have any structural weakness, it is their stems, which are sometimes not strong enough to support their gigantic blossoms. Consider three-legged metal peony rings that allow the plant to grow through the center of the rings.
Deadhead peony blossoms as soon as they begin to fade, cutting to a strong leaf so that the stem doesn’t stick out of the foliage. Cut the foliage to the ground in the fall to avoid any overwintering disease.
Don’t smother peonies with mulch. Where cold temperatures are severe, for the first winter after planting you can mulch VERY loosely with pine needles or shredded bark. Remove mulch in the spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Peonies are generally very hardy. They are susceptible to Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot, Botrytis blight, leaf blotch, Japanese beetle, and nematodes.
Many gardeners wonder why so many ants crawl on the peony buds. They are eating nectar in exchange for attacking bud-eating pests. Never spray the ants; they’re helping you nurture peonies to bloom!
Luckily, peonies are also one of many deer-resistant plants you can grow in your garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月01日
Another name for anemone
Autumn peony, also known as wild cotton, blowing peony, soil peony, Tyumen chrysanthemum, your boat chrysanthemum.
The growth habit of Anemone
Anemone is native to the central part of the country. It enjoys warm, humid and sunny conditions. It is relatively cold, but it is afraid of high temperature. It should be properly protected during summer. Autumn peony can stand half shade, but not too dry in breeding.
Breeding autumn peonies requires loose, fertile sandy soil.
The main value of Anemone
Autumn Peony Ornamental value is very high, it is more beautiful flower color, pink or white, very chic, suitable for the cultivation of ornamental potted flower border layout, or.
Morphological character
Herbs perennial, plants high (20-) 30-120 cm. Rhizome oblique or vertical, ca. 10 cm, coarse (2-) 4-7 mm.
Basal leaves 3-5, with a long handle, three leaves, sometimes 1-2 or all is simple; the central lobular with a long handle (1-6.5 cm long), leaflets ovate or broadly ovate, 4-11 cm long, 3-10 cm wide, apex acute or acuminate, base rounded or cordate, undivided or 3-5 two lobed, margin serrate, sparsely strigose; small lateral leaflets; petioles 3-36 cm long, sparsely pubescent, basally with short sheath.
Scape erect, sparsely puberulent; cymes 2-3 to have more branches, flowers, occasionally unbranched, only 3 flowered; bracts 3, shank (0.5-6 cm long), slightly unequal, three leaves, like basal leaves; peduncle 3-10 cm, densely or sparsely pilose; sepals 20 red, purple or violet, obovate, 2-3 cm long, 1.3-2 cm wide, short villi outside; stamens ca. as sepals length 1/4, anthers yellow, oval shaped silk filaments; carpels ca. 400, was born in the spherical torus, ca. 1.5 mm. Ovary with a long handle, short villi, stigma rectangle.
Aggregate fruit globose, ca. 1.5 cm in diam., achene ca. 3.5 mm, slender, densely woolly. Flowers bloom from July to October.
Autumn peony, also known as wild cotton, blowing peony, soil peony, Tyumen chrysanthemum, your boat chrysanthemum.
The growth habit of Anemone
Anemone is native to the central part of the country. It enjoys warm, humid and sunny conditions. It is relatively cold, but it is afraid of high temperature. It should be properly protected during summer. Autumn peony can stand half shade, but not too dry in breeding.
Breeding autumn peonies requires loose, fertile sandy soil.
The main value of Anemone
Autumn Peony Ornamental value is very high, it is more beautiful flower color, pink or white, very chic, suitable for the cultivation of ornamental potted flower border layout, or.
Morphological character
Herbs perennial, plants high (20-) 30-120 cm. Rhizome oblique or vertical, ca. 10 cm, coarse (2-) 4-7 mm.
Basal leaves 3-5, with a long handle, three leaves, sometimes 1-2 or all is simple; the central lobular with a long handle (1-6.5 cm long), leaflets ovate or broadly ovate, 4-11 cm long, 3-10 cm wide, apex acute or acuminate, base rounded or cordate, undivided or 3-5 two lobed, margin serrate, sparsely strigose; small lateral leaflets; petioles 3-36 cm long, sparsely pubescent, basally with short sheath.
Scape erect, sparsely puberulent; cymes 2-3 to have more branches, flowers, occasionally unbranched, only 3 flowered; bracts 3, shank (0.5-6 cm long), slightly unequal, three leaves, like basal leaves; peduncle 3-10 cm, densely or sparsely pilose; sepals 20 red, purple or violet, obovate, 2-3 cm long, 1.3-2 cm wide, short villi outside; stamens ca. as sepals length 1/4, anthers yellow, oval shaped silk filaments; carpels ca. 400, was born in the spherical torus, ca. 1.5 mm. Ovary with a long handle, short villi, stigma rectangle.
Aggregate fruit globose, ca. 1.5 cm in diam., achene ca. 3.5 mm, slender, densely woolly. Flowers bloom from July to October.
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