文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
Creeping Wire Vine (Muehlenbeckia axillaris) is a sprawling prostrate subshrub with distinctive small, round, ornamental dark green leaves and wiry stems. It requires little maintenance and is fast-spreading. It's also sometimes referred to as Matted Lignum.
This plant is an excellent choice as a hardy, alternative ground cover, coping well with a medium amount of foot traffic. It also works for use on slopes to help prevent soil erosion.
Because of its draping qualities, Creeping Wire Vine also looks great in hanging baskets and containers, alongside other taller plants.
Because it's so vigorous, care should be taken about where it's positioned. Although it looks good on border edges, climbing on walls, and in rock gardens, it can sprawl into other plants territory quickly. The wiry vines can also become a tripping hazard when it's planted in between flagstones.
The fast-spreading underground root system can be an advantage, however, when looking to keep weeds under control.
The bright leaves are evergreen when the temperatures are mild enough, Its flowers emerge in late spring, but they're small, green and inconspicuous. Little white edible and juicy berries also develop as the seasons move on.
Botanical Name Muehlenbeckia axillaris
Common Name Creeping Wire Vine, Sprawling Wirevine, Matted Lignum
Plant Type Prostrate evergreen shrub
Mature Size Up to 6 inches
Sun Exposure Full Sun/ Partial Shade
Soil Type Tolerates a variety, but must be well-drained
Soil pH Not particular
Bloom Time Late spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9
Native Area New Zealand and Australia
How to Grow Creeping Wire Vine
Providing you select the right sunny or partial shade location, once Creeping Wire Vine is established, it requires very little maintenance.
It does well in a variety of soils and even thrives in dry, rocky conditions. Once mature, your plant can cope with little irrigation.
Light
A sunny or partial shade location is what Creeping Wire Vine prefers. It can cope in areas with no shade, but just expect much slower growth.
Soil
Creeping Wire Vine isn't fussy when it comes to soil types. It copes well with dry, infertile soils and this is part of its appeal for use on rocky slopes where other plants struggle to thrive. It can help to minimize erosion in these types of areas.
It doesn't cope with standing water, and the main requirement is that the soil is well-drained.
Water
During the first growing season, Creeping Wire Vie should be kept consistently moist. This will give the roots the best chance to establish.
Once the plant is fully mature, although it prefers moist soil, it can cope with dry conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
This hardy plant can handle alpine conditions, but you should expect a much slower growth rate.
As you would expect of a plant that is native to Australia and New Zealand, Creeping Wire Vine thrives in warm conditions.
Fertilizer
In good quality soil, fertilizer will not be required. If your Creeping Wire Vine is in dry, rocky soil, it may benefit from an annual feeding in the spring, just before new growth starts.
Propagating Creeping Wire Vine
Although Matted Lignum can be grown from seed, propagating from a cutting is an easier way to establish new growth.
It doesn't require a lot of rooting hormone and new roots form with little effort. Make sure that you take a cutting from a well-established stem. Young shrubs have a flexible stem that will struggle to reroot.
Pruning
Pruning isn't a necessity, but mowing down the shrub, particularly in the spring, can help to encourage new and healthy growth.
It can also help to contain the spread if your plant is thriving in a sunny, warm position. You can mow it back at any time of the year if you feel it's getting too full.
Being Grown in Containers
Creeping Wire Vine looks great when planted at the edges of a container, allowing it to spill over the sides. It works well when it's selected alongside plants of contrasting heights and colors.
Just be aware that the sprawling root system can overtake less robust plants sitting alongside it, and it'll probably require more frequent watering when sitting in a container.
Growing From Seeds
Propagating from a cutting is usually recommended because Creeping Wire Vine isn't self-fertile. The flowers on each plant are only one sex. This means you need male and female plants to ensure successful seeding.
When planting Creeping Wire Vine, make sure you leave around half a meter of space between each plant. It spreads quickly and positioning them too close together can create overcrowding that can stunt growth.
This plant is an excellent choice as a hardy, alternative ground cover, coping well with a medium amount of foot traffic. It also works for use on slopes to help prevent soil erosion.
Because of its draping qualities, Creeping Wire Vine also looks great in hanging baskets and containers, alongside other taller plants.
Because it's so vigorous, care should be taken about where it's positioned. Although it looks good on border edges, climbing on walls, and in rock gardens, it can sprawl into other plants territory quickly. The wiry vines can also become a tripping hazard when it's planted in between flagstones.
The fast-spreading underground root system can be an advantage, however, when looking to keep weeds under control.
The bright leaves are evergreen when the temperatures are mild enough, Its flowers emerge in late spring, but they're small, green and inconspicuous. Little white edible and juicy berries also develop as the seasons move on.
Botanical Name Muehlenbeckia axillaris
Common Name Creeping Wire Vine, Sprawling Wirevine, Matted Lignum
Plant Type Prostrate evergreen shrub
Mature Size Up to 6 inches
Sun Exposure Full Sun/ Partial Shade
Soil Type Tolerates a variety, but must be well-drained
Soil pH Not particular
Bloom Time Late spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9
Native Area New Zealand and Australia
How to Grow Creeping Wire Vine
Providing you select the right sunny or partial shade location, once Creeping Wire Vine is established, it requires very little maintenance.
It does well in a variety of soils and even thrives in dry, rocky conditions. Once mature, your plant can cope with little irrigation.
Light
A sunny or partial shade location is what Creeping Wire Vine prefers. It can cope in areas with no shade, but just expect much slower growth.
Soil
Creeping Wire Vine isn't fussy when it comes to soil types. It copes well with dry, infertile soils and this is part of its appeal for use on rocky slopes where other plants struggle to thrive. It can help to minimize erosion in these types of areas.
It doesn't cope with standing water, and the main requirement is that the soil is well-drained.
Water
During the first growing season, Creeping Wire Vie should be kept consistently moist. This will give the roots the best chance to establish.
Once the plant is fully mature, although it prefers moist soil, it can cope with dry conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
This hardy plant can handle alpine conditions, but you should expect a much slower growth rate.
As you would expect of a plant that is native to Australia and New Zealand, Creeping Wire Vine thrives in warm conditions.
Fertilizer
In good quality soil, fertilizer will not be required. If your Creeping Wire Vine is in dry, rocky soil, it may benefit from an annual feeding in the spring, just before new growth starts.
Propagating Creeping Wire Vine
Although Matted Lignum can be grown from seed, propagating from a cutting is an easier way to establish new growth.
It doesn't require a lot of rooting hormone and new roots form with little effort. Make sure that you take a cutting from a well-established stem. Young shrubs have a flexible stem that will struggle to reroot.
Pruning
Pruning isn't a necessity, but mowing down the shrub, particularly in the spring, can help to encourage new and healthy growth.
It can also help to contain the spread if your plant is thriving in a sunny, warm position. You can mow it back at any time of the year if you feel it's getting too full.
Being Grown in Containers
Creeping Wire Vine looks great when planted at the edges of a container, allowing it to spill over the sides. It works well when it's selected alongside plants of contrasting heights and colors.
Just be aware that the sprawling root system can overtake less robust plants sitting alongside it, and it'll probably require more frequent watering when sitting in a container.
Growing From Seeds
Propagating from a cutting is usually recommended because Creeping Wire Vine isn't self-fertile. The flowers on each plant are only one sex. This means you need male and female plants to ensure successful seeding.
When planting Creeping Wire Vine, make sure you leave around half a meter of space between each plant. It spreads quickly and positioning them too close together can create overcrowding that can stunt growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月13日
Cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) is a large flowering shrub with bright green, lobed, hairy leaves that stretch roughly 3 to 6 inches long and wide. The stems can grow tall and wide enough to become tree-like. But the plant's flowers are its real show-stopping feature.
They begin blooming in the summertime, starting off as a white or light pink color. Typically within one to three days, the color changes to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. The blooms then last for several more days. The shrub usually will have flowers at various stages of the color-change process on it all at once, providing exceptional visual interest. Fuzzy seed pods, whose cotton-like appearance gives the plant its common name, follow the flowers.
Cotton rose shrubs have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Name Cotton rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus mutabilis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall, 6–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, pink, red
Hardiness Zones 7–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Cotton Rose Care
Cotton rose can provide lots of drama in the landscape, yet it requires minimal maintenance. It’s not overly picky about its soil as long as there’s good drainage, and it can tolerate some drought. It’s even known to be deer-resistant.
You’ll typically have to prune annually, though the shrub usually doesn’t need extensive pruning. And plan to water and fertilize during the growing season.
Light
For best growth, plant your cotton rose in a spot that gets full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. The shrub also can tolerate partial shade, though it might not flower as profusely.
Soil
This shrub can grow in most soils with good drainage. But it does best in a loamy soil that’s rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH is ideal.
Water
While cotton rose can tolerate some drought, it’s best to maintain a moderate amount of moisture during the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Water minimally during the winter—just enough to prevent the soil from fully drying out. Try to avoid getting the foliage wet when watering, as this can promote fungal growth.
Temperature and Humidity
This is not a cold-hardy shrub. Frost will cause it to drop its leaves in the fall and enter dormancy. Then, it can tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing over the winter, but anything colder might damage or kill the shrub. Humidity typically isn’t a factor as long as adequate soil moisture and good air circulation around the shrub are maintained.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer isn't essential unless you have poor soil, but it can help to speed growth. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, following label instructions.
Types of Cotton Rose
There are several types of cotton rose, including:
'Cotton Rose Nagoya': This cultivar features white flowers.
'Plenus': This cultivar is known for its double blooms.
'Rubra': Red flowers are the trademark of this cultivar.
Pruning
Prune your cotton rose in the late winter or early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as they arise. Usually only a light pruning is necessary to shape growth. But if your shrub has become leggy and unsightly, you can cut it back almost to the ground. New shoots will quickly grow to fill in the space.
Propagating Cotton Rose
Cotton rose can be propagated by stem cuttings. Not only is this a cheap and easy way to get new plants, but it also allows you to put any stems that you pruned off to good use. The best time to take cuttings is in the late winter to early spring. Here’s how:
Trim off a piece of healthy stem that’s around 1 to 1.5 feet long. Cut just below a leaf node, and make your cut at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the cutting in a moist soilless potting mix. Use a 1-gallon container with drainage holes.
Place the container in a bright, south-facing window or in a sheltered area that gets partial sun outside if you live in a warmer climate.
Keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and roots should form in roughly four to six weeks.
How to Grow Cotton Rose From Seed
Direct sow cotton rose seeds in the spring; they germinate best when the temperatures are between roughly 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant them about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You should see germination within a week or two, and plants can even flower in their first year if they're started early enough.
Potting and Repotting Cotton Rose
It’s possible to grow cotton rose in a pot, but this likely will stunt the shrub’s growth and diminish its blooms. Also, note that container plants generally need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground.
Use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. And select a container that allows for at least a few inches of extra space on all sides of the plant’s root ball. The container also should have drainage holes. Unglazed clay is a good material to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. But you might want to consider using a grow bag because it will be lighter to move.
When you see roots coming out of the drainage holes and popping up from the soil line, it’s time to repot. It’s best to do this in the spring. Choose a container size up, and add fresh soil around the root ball.
Overwintering
In the colder parts of cotton rose's growing zones, the stems often naturally die back over the winter. But the shrub still should produce fresh growth in the spring. Plan to prune off the stems that have died back in the late winter to early spring. If you do it earlier as part of your garden's overwintering maintenance, this can damage the shrub.
If you’re growing your cotton rose in a container and live in the cooler parts of its growing zones, bring it into an unheated garage or shed over the winter. This will help to prevent the container soil from getting too cold and damaging the plant's roots.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cotton rose is susceptible to some common garden pests, including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and scale. Infestations often can be treated with insecticidal soaps or even a strong spray of water.
Common diseases include leaf spot, southern stem blight, and powdery mildew. Remove any stems with signs of fungal growth. Also, aim to prevent fungal diseases by watering only at the base of the plant and maintaining good air flow around it.
How to Get Cotton Rose to Bloom
Cotton rose flowers are a saucer shape with four to five petals each. They stretch around 3 to 6 inches across. Blooming typically begins in the late summer and stretches into fall. The flowers won't provide fragrance for your garden, but they will attract many beneficial pollinators.
It's not essential to deadhead, or remove the spent blooms, but it can help to promote further blooming. However, this plant will typically bloom profusely on its own as well. Just make sure it has sufficient sunlight, moisture, and organic matter in the soil to support flowering.
Common Problems With Cotton Rose
When grown in the conditions it likes, cotton rose isn’t prone to serious problems. However, an inadequate environment can lead to some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Make sure the soil is never waterlogged. But on the flip side, plan to water a little extra in hot weather.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
In the warmest parts of its growing zones, this shrub often holds onto its leaves year-round. But during the winter months in its cooler zones, it will naturally drop some or all of its leaves. This isn’t cause for concern, as it will regrow come spring. However, leaf drop during the growing season can be a sign of inadequate watering or disease.
FAQ
What's the difference between cotton roses and roses?
While they share a common name, cotton roses are actually members of the Hibiscus genus while roses are of the Rosa genus. However, both plants’ showy blooms do somewhat resemble each other.
Where should I place cotton rose outside my house?
The cotton rose can make for a dramatic specimen planting, providing a showy floral display toward the end of the growing season when many other plants have already wrapped up their blooming period. It also can be grown as a shrub border.
Can cotton rose be grown indoors?
It is not ideal to try to grow cotton rose shrubs indoors. They require direct sunlight to grow and bloom at their best. And they generally become too large to be a houseplant.
They begin blooming in the summertime, starting off as a white or light pink color. Typically within one to three days, the color changes to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. The blooms then last for several more days. The shrub usually will have flowers at various stages of the color-change process on it all at once, providing exceptional visual interest. Fuzzy seed pods, whose cotton-like appearance gives the plant its common name, follow the flowers.
Cotton rose shrubs have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Name Cotton rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus mutabilis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall, 6–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, pink, red
Hardiness Zones 7–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Cotton Rose Care
Cotton rose can provide lots of drama in the landscape, yet it requires minimal maintenance. It’s not overly picky about its soil as long as there’s good drainage, and it can tolerate some drought. It’s even known to be deer-resistant.
You’ll typically have to prune annually, though the shrub usually doesn’t need extensive pruning. And plan to water and fertilize during the growing season.
Light
For best growth, plant your cotton rose in a spot that gets full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. The shrub also can tolerate partial shade, though it might not flower as profusely.
Soil
This shrub can grow in most soils with good drainage. But it does best in a loamy soil that’s rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH is ideal.
Water
While cotton rose can tolerate some drought, it’s best to maintain a moderate amount of moisture during the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Water minimally during the winter—just enough to prevent the soil from fully drying out. Try to avoid getting the foliage wet when watering, as this can promote fungal growth.
Temperature and Humidity
This is not a cold-hardy shrub. Frost will cause it to drop its leaves in the fall and enter dormancy. Then, it can tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing over the winter, but anything colder might damage or kill the shrub. Humidity typically isn’t a factor as long as adequate soil moisture and good air circulation around the shrub are maintained.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer isn't essential unless you have poor soil, but it can help to speed growth. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, following label instructions.
Types of Cotton Rose
There are several types of cotton rose, including:
'Cotton Rose Nagoya': This cultivar features white flowers.
'Plenus': This cultivar is known for its double blooms.
'Rubra': Red flowers are the trademark of this cultivar.
Pruning
Prune your cotton rose in the late winter or early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as they arise. Usually only a light pruning is necessary to shape growth. But if your shrub has become leggy and unsightly, you can cut it back almost to the ground. New shoots will quickly grow to fill in the space.
Propagating Cotton Rose
Cotton rose can be propagated by stem cuttings. Not only is this a cheap and easy way to get new plants, but it also allows you to put any stems that you pruned off to good use. The best time to take cuttings is in the late winter to early spring. Here’s how:
Trim off a piece of healthy stem that’s around 1 to 1.5 feet long. Cut just below a leaf node, and make your cut at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the cutting in a moist soilless potting mix. Use a 1-gallon container with drainage holes.
Place the container in a bright, south-facing window or in a sheltered area that gets partial sun outside if you live in a warmer climate.
Keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and roots should form in roughly four to six weeks.
How to Grow Cotton Rose From Seed
Direct sow cotton rose seeds in the spring; they germinate best when the temperatures are between roughly 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant them about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You should see germination within a week or two, and plants can even flower in their first year if they're started early enough.
Potting and Repotting Cotton Rose
It’s possible to grow cotton rose in a pot, but this likely will stunt the shrub’s growth and diminish its blooms. Also, note that container plants generally need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground.
Use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. And select a container that allows for at least a few inches of extra space on all sides of the plant’s root ball. The container also should have drainage holes. Unglazed clay is a good material to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. But you might want to consider using a grow bag because it will be lighter to move.
When you see roots coming out of the drainage holes and popping up from the soil line, it’s time to repot. It’s best to do this in the spring. Choose a container size up, and add fresh soil around the root ball.
Overwintering
In the colder parts of cotton rose's growing zones, the stems often naturally die back over the winter. But the shrub still should produce fresh growth in the spring. Plan to prune off the stems that have died back in the late winter to early spring. If you do it earlier as part of your garden's overwintering maintenance, this can damage the shrub.
If you’re growing your cotton rose in a container and live in the cooler parts of its growing zones, bring it into an unheated garage or shed over the winter. This will help to prevent the container soil from getting too cold and damaging the plant's roots.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cotton rose is susceptible to some common garden pests, including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and scale. Infestations often can be treated with insecticidal soaps or even a strong spray of water.
Common diseases include leaf spot, southern stem blight, and powdery mildew. Remove any stems with signs of fungal growth. Also, aim to prevent fungal diseases by watering only at the base of the plant and maintaining good air flow around it.
How to Get Cotton Rose to Bloom
Cotton rose flowers are a saucer shape with four to five petals each. They stretch around 3 to 6 inches across. Blooming typically begins in the late summer and stretches into fall. The flowers won't provide fragrance for your garden, but they will attract many beneficial pollinators.
It's not essential to deadhead, or remove the spent blooms, but it can help to promote further blooming. However, this plant will typically bloom profusely on its own as well. Just make sure it has sufficient sunlight, moisture, and organic matter in the soil to support flowering.
Common Problems With Cotton Rose
When grown in the conditions it likes, cotton rose isn’t prone to serious problems. However, an inadequate environment can lead to some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Make sure the soil is never waterlogged. But on the flip side, plan to water a little extra in hot weather.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
In the warmest parts of its growing zones, this shrub often holds onto its leaves year-round. But during the winter months in its cooler zones, it will naturally drop some or all of its leaves. This isn’t cause for concern, as it will regrow come spring. However, leaf drop during the growing season can be a sign of inadequate watering or disease.
FAQ
What's the difference between cotton roses and roses?
While they share a common name, cotton roses are actually members of the Hibiscus genus while roses are of the Rosa genus. However, both plants’ showy blooms do somewhat resemble each other.
Where should I place cotton rose outside my house?
The cotton rose can make for a dramatic specimen planting, providing a showy floral display toward the end of the growing season when many other plants have already wrapped up their blooming period. It also can be grown as a shrub border.
Can cotton rose be grown indoors?
It is not ideal to try to grow cotton rose shrubs indoors. They require direct sunlight to grow and bloom at their best. And they generally become too large to be a houseplant.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月05日
Unlike most varieties of mint, which grow aggressively and often invasively, Corsican mint is somewhat challenging to grow. It is a low-growing herb, with tiny rounded glossy green leaves on very short stems, barely growing more than a quarter of an inch tall. In the right growing conditions, Corsican mint can be an effective, attractive ground cover. It can also be grown in containers with other herbs or flowers. Native to Corsica , Montecristo, and Sardinia, it has also been naturalized in other parts of Europe, including Portugal and the British Isles.
Corsican mint, also known as Mentha requienii, is perennial in warmer zones, from 7 to 11. It bears very tiny pale purple flowers in summer, somewhat similar in appearance to creeping thyme. Also like creeping thyme, the tiny leaves of this herb make it suitable for growing around stepping stones or walkways where it provides a fresh burst of scent when stepped on. Unlike creeping thyme, which likes full sun, Corsican mint thrives in shady spots. In addition to having a strong mint fragrance, Corsican mint is known to have a strong mint flavor and has traditionally been used to make creme de menthe, a bright green liqueur. It also has traditional medicinal uses for indigestion and as an antiseptic.
The strong scent of Corsican mint makes it a useful companion plant for brassicas, as it repels pests that like to munch on cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower. The smell of mint can also be a deterrent to rodents and planting it near entrances or in containers in the garden can help deter mice and other pests.
In the United States, Corsican mint is considered an invasive species in the southeast where it has naturalized as a perennial. Most gardeners are familiar with the aggressive, invasive qualities of mint plants, but Corsican mint has proved itself to be enough of a nuisance that its cultivation is prohibited in some areas.
Botanical Name Mentha requienii
Common Name Corsican mint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 1/4 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.0 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time June through August
Flower Color Light purple
Hardiness Zones 7 to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Sardinia, Corsica, Italy, France
Toxicity Toxic to dogs in large amounts
Coriscan Mint Care
Corsican mint needs a bit more effort and care than most garden varieties of mint, which are so low care they can become invasive with very little effort. Corsican mint is a good choice for those who like a strongly scented and flavored mint for culinary use. To help control spread grow this, and other mints, in containers. A pot on the patio or outside the kitchen door is also handy for the chef. If you are looking to cover a bare spot in the landscape or an area difficult to maintain such as a slope or bank, go ahead and plant in the ground but keep a close eye on continued spread.
WARNING
Corsican mint is classified as an invasive species in the southeastern part of the United States. Consult with your local extension office to determine if you can plant Corsican mint in your garden.
Light
This mint adapts to a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade. Partial shade may prove to be a better location where summers are hotter.
Soil
Corsican mint grows best in well-drained soil, with some organic matter to hold moisture. It also tolerates acidic soil.
Water
Corsican mint needs ample moisture to thrive, but too much water will lead to root rot. It does require regular watering, however, and is not very drought tolerant, so maintaining this balance can be somewhat tricky. The best approach to seasonal watering is to let the soil surface of the planting area dry out before watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Corsican mint is fairly sensitive to temperature and will only naturalize within the narrow growing zone range of 7 to 11 in the United States. It likes consistent but not constant moisture, and if it gets too wet its leaves may turn into a black and slimy unsightly mess.
Propagating
The easiest way to propagate Corsican mint is by division. In a suitable climate, it will self-seed and continue to spread, and can become invasive. Once established, you can easily divide the plants to share or plant elsewhere.
How to Grow Corsican Mint from Seed
If you can obtain seeds, Corsican mint can be planted indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. If sowing seeds outdoors, soil should have reached a consistent temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Press seeds lightly into the soil surface and mist lightly with water. They should germinate in 7 to 14 days.
Overwintering
This plant is not really suitable for overwintering outdoors if your growing zone is below 7. But you can grow it indoors in containers in the winter time. Give it plenty of indirect light near a sunny window.
Corsican mint, also known as Mentha requienii, is perennial in warmer zones, from 7 to 11. It bears very tiny pale purple flowers in summer, somewhat similar in appearance to creeping thyme. Also like creeping thyme, the tiny leaves of this herb make it suitable for growing around stepping stones or walkways where it provides a fresh burst of scent when stepped on. Unlike creeping thyme, which likes full sun, Corsican mint thrives in shady spots. In addition to having a strong mint fragrance, Corsican mint is known to have a strong mint flavor and has traditionally been used to make creme de menthe, a bright green liqueur. It also has traditional medicinal uses for indigestion and as an antiseptic.
The strong scent of Corsican mint makes it a useful companion plant for brassicas, as it repels pests that like to munch on cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower. The smell of mint can also be a deterrent to rodents and planting it near entrances or in containers in the garden can help deter mice and other pests.
In the United States, Corsican mint is considered an invasive species in the southeast where it has naturalized as a perennial. Most gardeners are familiar with the aggressive, invasive qualities of mint plants, but Corsican mint has proved itself to be enough of a nuisance that its cultivation is prohibited in some areas.
Botanical Name Mentha requienii
Common Name Corsican mint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 1/4 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.0 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time June through August
Flower Color Light purple
Hardiness Zones 7 to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Sardinia, Corsica, Italy, France
Toxicity Toxic to dogs in large amounts
Coriscan Mint Care
Corsican mint needs a bit more effort and care than most garden varieties of mint, which are so low care they can become invasive with very little effort. Corsican mint is a good choice for those who like a strongly scented and flavored mint for culinary use. To help control spread grow this, and other mints, in containers. A pot on the patio or outside the kitchen door is also handy for the chef. If you are looking to cover a bare spot in the landscape or an area difficult to maintain such as a slope or bank, go ahead and plant in the ground but keep a close eye on continued spread.
WARNING
Corsican mint is classified as an invasive species in the southeastern part of the United States. Consult with your local extension office to determine if you can plant Corsican mint in your garden.
Light
This mint adapts to a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade. Partial shade may prove to be a better location where summers are hotter.
Soil
Corsican mint grows best in well-drained soil, with some organic matter to hold moisture. It also tolerates acidic soil.
Water
Corsican mint needs ample moisture to thrive, but too much water will lead to root rot. It does require regular watering, however, and is not very drought tolerant, so maintaining this balance can be somewhat tricky. The best approach to seasonal watering is to let the soil surface of the planting area dry out before watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Corsican mint is fairly sensitive to temperature and will only naturalize within the narrow growing zone range of 7 to 11 in the United States. It likes consistent but not constant moisture, and if it gets too wet its leaves may turn into a black and slimy unsightly mess.
Propagating
The easiest way to propagate Corsican mint is by division. In a suitable climate, it will self-seed and continue to spread, and can become invasive. Once established, you can easily divide the plants to share or plant elsewhere.
How to Grow Corsican Mint from Seed
If you can obtain seeds, Corsican mint can be planted indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. If sowing seeds outdoors, soil should have reached a consistent temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Press seeds lightly into the soil surface and mist lightly with water. They should germinate in 7 to 14 days.
Overwintering
This plant is not really suitable for overwintering outdoors if your growing zone is below 7. But you can grow it indoors in containers in the winter time. Give it plenty of indirect light near a sunny window.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月07日
The sweet floral scent of honeysuckle in the air is a sure tell that summer has arrived. The honeysuckle family (Lonicera spp.) includes 180 species of low-maintenance deciduous and evergreen shrubs or climbers with twining stems.1 Many have naturalized in the United States and some are native to specific regions of the country. If you plan to include this old time favorite in your landscape, be sure to do your homework. Other species of honeysuckle are highly invasive and prohibited in parts of the country. Check with your local cooperative extension to make sure the variety you choose can be planted in your region. The tubular or two-lipped showy honeysuckle flowers are easy for bees and hummingbirds to slip into. After the yellow, red, pink, purple, or white blooms fade, you'll find lot of juicy berries in the fall. Depending on the variety, honeysuckle grows hardy in USDA zones 4 through 10.
Common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) is also called European honeysuckle or woodbine. Native to Europe, North Africa and western Asia, it has naturalized in some areas of North America such as Nova Scotia, Ontario, New England and the Pacific Northwest. It is a deciduous shrub with a vine-like habit, growing 10 feet tall and occasionally to 20 feet tall. Leaves are ovate to obovate, about two inches long, appearing on the stems in pairs. Leaves are dark green above and blue-green underneath. Two shades of green appear in the center of the leaf, which has creamy white edges. New leaves emerge in spring and mature as smooth leaves by summer, becoming hot pink in autumn. Buds are pink. Colorful flowers open with ivory interiors and purple exteriors. Two-lipped flowers, each two inches long, bloom steadily in summer and more sporadically in autumn to frost, in three to five whorled terminal spikes that give way to glossy, red berries. Honeysuckle also has strong nocturnally scented flowers attracting large pollinating hawk moths that roam dense bushy and woodland areas.
How to Grow and Care for Rosemary
Botanical Name Lonicera periclymenum
Common Names Common Honeysuckle, European Honeysuckle, Woodbine
Plant Type Deciduous shrub with a vine-like growth habit
Mature Size 12 to 20 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Dappled sunlight
Soil Type Moist, well-drained soils
Soil pH Neutral; tolerates both acidic and alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Colors Crimson purple outside and yellow and white inside
Hardiness Zones 5-9, USDA
Native Area Europe, Northern Africa, Southwest Asia
Common Honeysuckle Care
Tie young vining honeysuckle to a vertical stake to support its growth. Establish the stake before planting to avoid disturbing the soil or roots.
If you plan to include common honeysuckle in your landscape, be sure to do your homework. Other species of honeysuckle are highly invasive and prohibited in parts of the country. Check with your local extension office to make sure the variety you choose can be planted in your region.
Light
Common honeysuckle prefers dappled sunlight, but it will grow in full sun to part shade. Give the plant a similar environment to its native habitat of scrub and woods. If possible, shade the roots and let the plant climb towards the sun.
Soil
Give common honeysuckle any fertile, rich, well-drained soil.
Water
Water newly planted honeysuckle consistently. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plant shows signs of vigorous growth. Once established, it is quite drought tolerant. Water only if summer droughts last two weeks or more, offering at least one inch of water per week. Adding about two inches of organic mulch around the plant's base will prevent water from evaporating.
Temperature and Humidity
Honeysuckles usually thrive best in cooler regions with cooler summer climates. Place in part afternoon shade where summers are especially hot.
Fertilizer
If planted in fertile soil, the honeysuckle will grow vigorously without any added fertilizer. If needed, encourage blooming by applying a low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring such as 2-10-10, 0-10-10 or 15-25-10. Too much nitrogen will encourage more growth in the leaves and not enough in the flowers. Such "flushes of foliage growth" could make the plant more susceptible to pests. Learn to read and understand garden fertilizer labels to give each plant exactly what it needs.
Pruning
Once established, most honeysuckle plants will grow vigorously. Prune your common honeysuckle as you would any shrub or vine, removing dead or damaged twigs and branches throughout the season but save any hard pruning for after bloom. Early-blooming vining varieties that bloom on last year's growth, like common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum), benefit from being cut back by one-third after the blooming period is over. If the vine gets out of control, cut it two feet above the ground.
Other Varieties
Early Dutch Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum 'Belgica' ) plants bear streaked, raspberry red flowers.
A popular woodbine (Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina') produces flowers that are dark red on the outside and yellow and white inside.
Berries Jubilee (Lonicera periclymenum 'Monul') have yellow flowers, giving fruit to bright red berries.
Propagating Common Honeysuckle
Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken for propagation in summer. Put the cuttings in a well-draining soil and wait for them to take root.
Common Pests and Diseases
While there are rarely any serious insect or disease issues, watch for honeysuckle aphids and scale. Leaf roller, dieback, and blights may also arise. Growing honeysuckle in regions with hot and humid summers could result in powdery mildew and leaf spots, which is why it's best to grow honeysuckle in cooler regions where it will thrive.
Common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) is also called European honeysuckle or woodbine. Native to Europe, North Africa and western Asia, it has naturalized in some areas of North America such as Nova Scotia, Ontario, New England and the Pacific Northwest. It is a deciduous shrub with a vine-like habit, growing 10 feet tall and occasionally to 20 feet tall. Leaves are ovate to obovate, about two inches long, appearing on the stems in pairs. Leaves are dark green above and blue-green underneath. Two shades of green appear in the center of the leaf, which has creamy white edges. New leaves emerge in spring and mature as smooth leaves by summer, becoming hot pink in autumn. Buds are pink. Colorful flowers open with ivory interiors and purple exteriors. Two-lipped flowers, each two inches long, bloom steadily in summer and more sporadically in autumn to frost, in three to five whorled terminal spikes that give way to glossy, red berries. Honeysuckle also has strong nocturnally scented flowers attracting large pollinating hawk moths that roam dense bushy and woodland areas.
How to Grow and Care for Rosemary
Botanical Name Lonicera periclymenum
Common Names Common Honeysuckle, European Honeysuckle, Woodbine
Plant Type Deciduous shrub with a vine-like growth habit
Mature Size 12 to 20 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Dappled sunlight
Soil Type Moist, well-drained soils
Soil pH Neutral; tolerates both acidic and alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Colors Crimson purple outside and yellow and white inside
Hardiness Zones 5-9, USDA
Native Area Europe, Northern Africa, Southwest Asia
Common Honeysuckle Care
Tie young vining honeysuckle to a vertical stake to support its growth. Establish the stake before planting to avoid disturbing the soil or roots.
If you plan to include common honeysuckle in your landscape, be sure to do your homework. Other species of honeysuckle are highly invasive and prohibited in parts of the country. Check with your local extension office to make sure the variety you choose can be planted in your region.
Light
Common honeysuckle prefers dappled sunlight, but it will grow in full sun to part shade. Give the plant a similar environment to its native habitat of scrub and woods. If possible, shade the roots and let the plant climb towards the sun.
Soil
Give common honeysuckle any fertile, rich, well-drained soil.
Water
Water newly planted honeysuckle consistently. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plant shows signs of vigorous growth. Once established, it is quite drought tolerant. Water only if summer droughts last two weeks or more, offering at least one inch of water per week. Adding about two inches of organic mulch around the plant's base will prevent water from evaporating.
Temperature and Humidity
Honeysuckles usually thrive best in cooler regions with cooler summer climates. Place in part afternoon shade where summers are especially hot.
Fertilizer
If planted in fertile soil, the honeysuckle will grow vigorously without any added fertilizer. If needed, encourage blooming by applying a low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring such as 2-10-10, 0-10-10 or 15-25-10. Too much nitrogen will encourage more growth in the leaves and not enough in the flowers. Such "flushes of foliage growth" could make the plant more susceptible to pests. Learn to read and understand garden fertilizer labels to give each plant exactly what it needs.
Pruning
Once established, most honeysuckle plants will grow vigorously. Prune your common honeysuckle as you would any shrub or vine, removing dead or damaged twigs and branches throughout the season but save any hard pruning for after bloom. Early-blooming vining varieties that bloom on last year's growth, like common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum), benefit from being cut back by one-third after the blooming period is over. If the vine gets out of control, cut it two feet above the ground.
Other Varieties
Early Dutch Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum 'Belgica' ) plants bear streaked, raspberry red flowers.
A popular woodbine (Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina') produces flowers that are dark red on the outside and yellow and white inside.
Berries Jubilee (Lonicera periclymenum 'Monul') have yellow flowers, giving fruit to bright red berries.
Propagating Common Honeysuckle
Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken for propagation in summer. Put the cuttings in a well-draining soil and wait for them to take root.
Common Pests and Diseases
While there are rarely any serious insect or disease issues, watch for honeysuckle aphids and scale. Leaf roller, dieback, and blights may also arise. Growing honeysuckle in regions with hot and humid summers could result in powdery mildew and leaf spots, which is why it's best to grow honeysuckle in cooler regions where it will thrive.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月03日
Common bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a spring-blooming herbaceous perennial plant that grows arching stems from rhizomatous roots and produces sprays of small heart-shaped flowers of pink and white. The plant is a fast grower that typically reaches 2 or 3 feet in height within 60 days or so. Though it flourishes best outdoors, growing it indoors is entirely possible and rewarding.
Common bleeding heart contains isoquinolone alkaloids, which can be toxic to humans and some animals.
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How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis)
Common Names Common bleeding heart, bleeding heart
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Can You Grow Common Bleeding Heart Inside?
The need for partial or full shade, as well as the plant's love of moderate to cooler temperatures, makes this a fantastic option for growing indoors. An ambient temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit or less is ideal. Though it might grow faster outdoors, the use of excellent potting soil and proper placement away from windows will help it grow. Give it the proper conditions and you won't have to give it much attention beyond regular watering. Keep in mind that it will need a larger pot, at least 12 inches in diameter, to truly thrive.
How to Grow Common Bleeding Heart Indoors
Sunlight
Grow this plant in partial shade to full shade. In partial shade, Lamprocapnos spectabilis will need approximately 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. It will tolerate some sun, especially in cooler climates. Watch to make sure it does not become overheated. This could result in a lack of flowering.
Temperature and Humidity
The bleeding heart likes relatively cool conditions and will not do well with too much sun, especially in the southern part of the hardiness range. It tolerates a wide range of humidity levels. The ideal growing temperature for common bleeding heart is 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this makes them especially well-suited to the indoor environment.
Watering
Keep the soil moist but the foliage dry. These plants need a full 1 inch of water each week. However, do not allow the roots of bleeding heart to soak in water, as this can lead to rot.
Fertilizer
Mix compost or peat moss into the soil before planting, then feed each month with a slow-release, granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the base of the plant.
Pruning and Maintenance
No pruning is required for common bleeding heart. Cut back dying foliage for a better appearance. When stems die, cut them down as close to the base as possible. Keep in mind that the plant might go dormant, even under the best of indoor conditions, but it will rebloom.
Container and Size
Since common bleeding heart can reach several feet in height, it is imperative to pot it in a container that accommodates the growing roots. Start with a container at least 12 inches in diameter. The material doesn't matter as long as the container has good drainage.
Potting Soil and Drainage
Moist, well-drained soil with a high-level of organic humus is best for this plant. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH.
Potting and Repotting Common Bleeding Heart
Common bleeding heart can grow for four or five years in a large pot until it must be divided and repotted. When repotting, make sure to leave 2 to 3 inches of growing room around the root ball and fill the pot with fresh soil.
Moving Common Bleeding Heart Outdoors for the Summer
Bleeding heart can easily move outdoors during the summer months. Keep in mind, however, that the optimum growing temperature is about 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this means springtime is great for moving it outside, but the summer months might be warm enough to make the plant go dormant.
Considerations
Ensure that your plant is kept in partial to full shade. When the temperature ticks up beyond 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant might go dormant. Watch the sky to ensure the plant doesn't receive too much water.
When to Bring Common Bleeding Heart Back Inside
Before bringing the plant inside, make sure it is free of garden pests. Though there is no need to acclimate it to the indoor atmosphere, keep in mind that if it was subjected to temperatures higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit while outside, it might go dormant regardless of the care you give it indoors.
FAQ
Is it easy to propagate common bleeding heart?
To propagate, dig up the roots in the early spring, and divide them into pieces. Discard any dried pieces, then replant the segments.
How do you force common bleeding heart to bloom indoors?
It should bloom easily in the right conditions, including indirect sunlight and good humidity levels during the winter season. Keep in mind the life cycle of the common bleeding heart means it will go dormant during cooler weather.
Common bleeding heart contains isoquinolone alkaloids, which can be toxic to humans and some animals.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis)
Common Names Common bleeding heart, bleeding heart
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Can You Grow Common Bleeding Heart Inside?
The need for partial or full shade, as well as the plant's love of moderate to cooler temperatures, makes this a fantastic option for growing indoors. An ambient temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit or less is ideal. Though it might grow faster outdoors, the use of excellent potting soil and proper placement away from windows will help it grow. Give it the proper conditions and you won't have to give it much attention beyond regular watering. Keep in mind that it will need a larger pot, at least 12 inches in diameter, to truly thrive.
How to Grow Common Bleeding Heart Indoors
Sunlight
Grow this plant in partial shade to full shade. In partial shade, Lamprocapnos spectabilis will need approximately 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. It will tolerate some sun, especially in cooler climates. Watch to make sure it does not become overheated. This could result in a lack of flowering.
Temperature and Humidity
The bleeding heart likes relatively cool conditions and will not do well with too much sun, especially in the southern part of the hardiness range. It tolerates a wide range of humidity levels. The ideal growing temperature for common bleeding heart is 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this makes them especially well-suited to the indoor environment.
Watering
Keep the soil moist but the foliage dry. These plants need a full 1 inch of water each week. However, do not allow the roots of bleeding heart to soak in water, as this can lead to rot.
Fertilizer
Mix compost or peat moss into the soil before planting, then feed each month with a slow-release, granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the base of the plant.
Pruning and Maintenance
No pruning is required for common bleeding heart. Cut back dying foliage for a better appearance. When stems die, cut them down as close to the base as possible. Keep in mind that the plant might go dormant, even under the best of indoor conditions, but it will rebloom.
Container and Size
Since common bleeding heart can reach several feet in height, it is imperative to pot it in a container that accommodates the growing roots. Start with a container at least 12 inches in diameter. The material doesn't matter as long as the container has good drainage.
Potting Soil and Drainage
Moist, well-drained soil with a high-level of organic humus is best for this plant. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH.
Potting and Repotting Common Bleeding Heart
Common bleeding heart can grow for four or five years in a large pot until it must be divided and repotted. When repotting, make sure to leave 2 to 3 inches of growing room around the root ball and fill the pot with fresh soil.
Moving Common Bleeding Heart Outdoors for the Summer
Bleeding heart can easily move outdoors during the summer months. Keep in mind, however, that the optimum growing temperature is about 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this means springtime is great for moving it outside, but the summer months might be warm enough to make the plant go dormant.
Considerations
Ensure that your plant is kept in partial to full shade. When the temperature ticks up beyond 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant might go dormant. Watch the sky to ensure the plant doesn't receive too much water.
When to Bring Common Bleeding Heart Back Inside
Before bringing the plant inside, make sure it is free of garden pests. Though there is no need to acclimate it to the indoor atmosphere, keep in mind that if it was subjected to temperatures higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit while outside, it might go dormant regardless of the care you give it indoors.
FAQ
Is it easy to propagate common bleeding heart?
To propagate, dig up the roots in the early spring, and divide them into pieces. Discard any dried pieces, then replant the segments.
How do you force common bleeding heart to bloom indoors?
It should bloom easily in the right conditions, including indirect sunlight and good humidity levels during the winter season. Keep in mind the life cycle of the common bleeding heart means it will go dormant during cooler weather.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月25日
Coleus, made popular as Victorian-era bedding plants, have made a huge comeback thanks to the all-season color the lovely foliage offers, whether it's planted in full sun or shade. Coleus plants are characterized by square stems and leaves situated directly opposite one another. Though it produces tiny blue to white flowers, they are insignificant and are often pinched off to conserve the plant's energy. The foliage can vary widely in shape, style, and color. Breeders regularly produce new introductions with even more unusual colors and patterns.
Planted outdoors in early spring, coleus quickly grows to full size in a single season. Large swaths of assorted coleus plantings that take on a quilt-like appearance can look luscious in a landscape or garden beds. Its vividly colored foliage also adds a decorative touch to window boxes, outdoor container gardens, and hanging baskets. Coleus is toxic to pets.1
Common Name Coleus
Botanical Name Plectranthus scutellarioides
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Herbacious perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Mature Size 6-36 in. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Part shade to full shade
Soil Type Rich, moist, loose soil, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Blue to white
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); grown as an annual everywhere
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to animals
Coleus Care
Coleus is a tender tropical plant, native to areas bordering the equator. Warmer zones can grow coleus as garden perennials, where they can grow to resemble small shrubs with thick woody stems. Though it loves the heat, it will happily grow as an annual in just about any garden, where it's normally used as an annual bedding plant or in containers.
However, coleus plants are not at all frost-tolerant, so don’t rush to get your plants in the ground. Wait until temperatures remain reliably above 60 degrees Fahrenheit before you move them out in the garden. They will do best in rich, loose, well-drained soil, so amending with compost or adding perlite to soil before planting is advised unless you have very good soil.
Light
Coleus is a classic part-shade to full-shade plant, but light exposure depends on the variety. The old-fashioned seed-grown coleus does best in part shade to full shade, but newer cultivars, like the Wizard series, perform well in full sun. Too much sun can scorch leaves and cause color to fade in most classic coleus varieties. Coleus performs best with filtered morning sun and shade in the afternoon, especially in hot climates.
Plants grown in containers indoors usually get plenty of light from indirect sun during the warmer (brighter) months but may need to be exposed to filtered sunlight during the winter. It doesn't take much, but they do need some light.
Soil
Coleus prefers consistently moist, rich, well-draining soil. Before planting, amend the soil with compost or another organic material. For potted plants, any good-quality potting mix will work fine. Make sure to choose a container with drainage holes.
Container-grown coleus loves the loose texture of potting soil, and it always helps to start with a quality mix with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Provide drainage in the pot to ensure the soil isn't constantly wet, which can lead to root rot.
Water
Coleus plants grow best in soil that is consistently moist but not soggy. The soil should not remain wet all the time, but long dry spells will slow the plants’ growth, and the leaves will start to turn brown around the edges. Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings, and water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Mulch will help the soil retain moisture longer, but don't use cedar mulch, which can be toxic to coleus. Also, don't let the mulch touch the stems, as it can promote rot and hide slugs.
Coleus in containers may need watering twice a day during hot weather. Outdoor containers may require water twice a day. Indoor plants need water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, coleus thrives in hot, humid conditions. In temperate climates, the barest hint of frost will spell the end of the plants. Move plants indoors or protect them on chilly nights when temperatures dip into the 50s. Make sure to take cuttings for propagation before the weather turns cold.
Keep indoor plants away from air conditioner vents and other cold spots. In dry climates, the plants will like some humidity from a humidifier or a bathroom environment. To take potted plants outdoors in spring, wait until the temperature is 70 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, you may not need to feed coleus plants at all. If you have poor soil, add a balanced slow-release fertilizer in the bed. You’ll get the best color from your coleus leaves if you go easy on the fertilizer.
Feed container-grown plants once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer. Container plants generally need more feeding than garden plants because frequent watering washes nutrients from the potting soil.
Types of Coleus
There are hundreds of coleus cultivars available with various colors, leaf textures, and patterns. Additional cultivars are developed each year, and garden centers tend to focus on a select few that have proven to be most popular among their customers. You may have to shop several different nurseries or online retailers to find the most unique varieties. Some types to look for include:
Wizard series: These are small 12- to 14-inch plants in standard color mixes. They are known to be very easy to grow from seeds.
Kong series: These coleus varieties have huge 6-inch leaves on big 2-foot tall plants. They are quite sensitive to direct sunlight.
'Black Dragon': This unusual variety has deep burgundy leaves with ruffled edges. They grow to 18 inches tall.
Premium Sun series: These cultivars are bred to tolerate full sun.
Fairway series: These are dwarf coleus varieties, only 6 to 10 inches tall, in a variety of leaf patterns and colors.
Pruning
To get full, bushy plants, pinch out the growing tips when the plants are about 6 inches tall. Pinch under the flower buds if you want the plant to spend its energy on leaves and not flowers and seeds.
Plants that are not pruned tend to get leggy and lose their nice shape and dense foliage. If they remain leggy, the plants may need more sun. This is most common with indoor plants during winter so give them a bit more sun or, if necessary, artificial light.
Propagating Coleus
Favorite coleus plants can easily be propagated by taking stem cuttings and rooting them.
With a sharp shearing scissor, cut a 4- to 6-inch long stem tip. Make sure to cut right beneath a leaf node along the stem. Remove all leaves from the lower half of the cutting.
Dip the end of the stem in a rooting hormone compound, then plant it in a moist potting mix so the soil covers the exposed leaf nodes.
Place the container in a plastic bag, making sure the plastic doesn't touch the cutting.
Place the covered cutting in a bright, warm location until new roots develop, which will take two to three weeks.
Remove the plastic and continue to grow the new plant in a bright, warm location.
Some of the more unusual cultivars might be reluctant to root, so with these, take plenty of cuttings to ensure that you get enough viable plants.
How to Grow Coleus From Seed
Modern coleus varieties sold in stores are hybrids that are almost always grown from cuttings potted up for nursery sale, but you can still find seeds of many varieties. If you will be planting the coleus in the outdoor garden, start seeds indoors about eight to 10 weeks before your last frost date.
It's easy to grow coleus from seed. It can take as long as 21 days for the seeds to germinate, so be patient. Once seedlings appear, it will take three or four weeks of warm weather to help turn them into fully grown plants.
Lightly sprinkle the tiny seeds over a tray filled with potting mix, then lightly cover with a sprinkling of soil.
Cover the tray with plastic and set it in a bright, warm spot until seedlings sprout, which takes about two weeks.
Remove the plastic and continue to grow the seedlings while keeping the soil moist.
When two sets of true leaves appear on the seedlings, carefully transplant them into their own pots and continue growing them until outdoor planting time. Make sure to harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Potting and Repotting Coleus
To grow coleus in a container, start with a large pot that the plant can grow into, otherwise, you'll be repotting this fast-growing plant before you know it.
In mixed container plantings, coleus usually serves as an upright "thriller" plant in the center of the container, surrounded by "fillers" and "spillers." In colder zones, container plants are sometimes moved indoors to overwinter.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Groundhogs and young rabbits love coleus. If you can protect your plants early in the season, these pests will usually turn their attention to other plants by mid-summer. Watch out for mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and slugs.
Coleus is not usually bothered by diseases unless the weather turns cool and damp. If that happens, expect to see signs of fungal diseases, such as mildew. Be careful that the plant enjoys good drainage, because standing water can lead to fungal root rot and stem rot.
FAQ
Is coleus easy to care for?
Coleus is very easy to care for. If you plant coleus in containers, you may want to bring it indoors during the winter to help it survive.
How fast does coleus grow?
Coleus quickly grows to full size, potentially up to 36 inches high, in a single season.
Can coleus be grown indoors?
Coleus makes a good container plant that can even be grown indoors.
Planted outdoors in early spring, coleus quickly grows to full size in a single season. Large swaths of assorted coleus plantings that take on a quilt-like appearance can look luscious in a landscape or garden beds. Its vividly colored foliage also adds a decorative touch to window boxes, outdoor container gardens, and hanging baskets. Coleus is toxic to pets.1
Common Name Coleus
Botanical Name Plectranthus scutellarioides
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Herbacious perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Mature Size 6-36 in. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Part shade to full shade
Soil Type Rich, moist, loose soil, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Blue to white
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); grown as an annual everywhere
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to animals
Coleus Care
Coleus is a tender tropical plant, native to areas bordering the equator. Warmer zones can grow coleus as garden perennials, where they can grow to resemble small shrubs with thick woody stems. Though it loves the heat, it will happily grow as an annual in just about any garden, where it's normally used as an annual bedding plant or in containers.
However, coleus plants are not at all frost-tolerant, so don’t rush to get your plants in the ground. Wait until temperatures remain reliably above 60 degrees Fahrenheit before you move them out in the garden. They will do best in rich, loose, well-drained soil, so amending with compost or adding perlite to soil before planting is advised unless you have very good soil.
Light
Coleus is a classic part-shade to full-shade plant, but light exposure depends on the variety. The old-fashioned seed-grown coleus does best in part shade to full shade, but newer cultivars, like the Wizard series, perform well in full sun. Too much sun can scorch leaves and cause color to fade in most classic coleus varieties. Coleus performs best with filtered morning sun and shade in the afternoon, especially in hot climates.
Plants grown in containers indoors usually get plenty of light from indirect sun during the warmer (brighter) months but may need to be exposed to filtered sunlight during the winter. It doesn't take much, but they do need some light.
Soil
Coleus prefers consistently moist, rich, well-draining soil. Before planting, amend the soil with compost or another organic material. For potted plants, any good-quality potting mix will work fine. Make sure to choose a container with drainage holes.
Container-grown coleus loves the loose texture of potting soil, and it always helps to start with a quality mix with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Provide drainage in the pot to ensure the soil isn't constantly wet, which can lead to root rot.
Water
Coleus plants grow best in soil that is consistently moist but not soggy. The soil should not remain wet all the time, but long dry spells will slow the plants’ growth, and the leaves will start to turn brown around the edges. Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings, and water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Mulch will help the soil retain moisture longer, but don't use cedar mulch, which can be toxic to coleus. Also, don't let the mulch touch the stems, as it can promote rot and hide slugs.
Coleus in containers may need watering twice a day during hot weather. Outdoor containers may require water twice a day. Indoor plants need water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, coleus thrives in hot, humid conditions. In temperate climates, the barest hint of frost will spell the end of the plants. Move plants indoors or protect them on chilly nights when temperatures dip into the 50s. Make sure to take cuttings for propagation before the weather turns cold.
Keep indoor plants away from air conditioner vents and other cold spots. In dry climates, the plants will like some humidity from a humidifier or a bathroom environment. To take potted plants outdoors in spring, wait until the temperature is 70 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, you may not need to feed coleus plants at all. If you have poor soil, add a balanced slow-release fertilizer in the bed. You’ll get the best color from your coleus leaves if you go easy on the fertilizer.
Feed container-grown plants once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer. Container plants generally need more feeding than garden plants because frequent watering washes nutrients from the potting soil.
Types of Coleus
There are hundreds of coleus cultivars available with various colors, leaf textures, and patterns. Additional cultivars are developed each year, and garden centers tend to focus on a select few that have proven to be most popular among their customers. You may have to shop several different nurseries or online retailers to find the most unique varieties. Some types to look for include:
Wizard series: These are small 12- to 14-inch plants in standard color mixes. They are known to be very easy to grow from seeds.
Kong series: These coleus varieties have huge 6-inch leaves on big 2-foot tall plants. They are quite sensitive to direct sunlight.
'Black Dragon': This unusual variety has deep burgundy leaves with ruffled edges. They grow to 18 inches tall.
Premium Sun series: These cultivars are bred to tolerate full sun.
Fairway series: These are dwarf coleus varieties, only 6 to 10 inches tall, in a variety of leaf patterns and colors.
Pruning
To get full, bushy plants, pinch out the growing tips when the plants are about 6 inches tall. Pinch under the flower buds if you want the plant to spend its energy on leaves and not flowers and seeds.
Plants that are not pruned tend to get leggy and lose their nice shape and dense foliage. If they remain leggy, the plants may need more sun. This is most common with indoor plants during winter so give them a bit more sun or, if necessary, artificial light.
Propagating Coleus
Favorite coleus plants can easily be propagated by taking stem cuttings and rooting them.
With a sharp shearing scissor, cut a 4- to 6-inch long stem tip. Make sure to cut right beneath a leaf node along the stem. Remove all leaves from the lower half of the cutting.
Dip the end of the stem in a rooting hormone compound, then plant it in a moist potting mix so the soil covers the exposed leaf nodes.
Place the container in a plastic bag, making sure the plastic doesn't touch the cutting.
Place the covered cutting in a bright, warm location until new roots develop, which will take two to three weeks.
Remove the plastic and continue to grow the new plant in a bright, warm location.
Some of the more unusual cultivars might be reluctant to root, so with these, take plenty of cuttings to ensure that you get enough viable plants.
How to Grow Coleus From Seed
Modern coleus varieties sold in stores are hybrids that are almost always grown from cuttings potted up for nursery sale, but you can still find seeds of many varieties. If you will be planting the coleus in the outdoor garden, start seeds indoors about eight to 10 weeks before your last frost date.
It's easy to grow coleus from seed. It can take as long as 21 days for the seeds to germinate, so be patient. Once seedlings appear, it will take three or four weeks of warm weather to help turn them into fully grown plants.
Lightly sprinkle the tiny seeds over a tray filled with potting mix, then lightly cover with a sprinkling of soil.
Cover the tray with plastic and set it in a bright, warm spot until seedlings sprout, which takes about two weeks.
Remove the plastic and continue to grow the seedlings while keeping the soil moist.
When two sets of true leaves appear on the seedlings, carefully transplant them into their own pots and continue growing them until outdoor planting time. Make sure to harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Potting and Repotting Coleus
To grow coleus in a container, start with a large pot that the plant can grow into, otherwise, you'll be repotting this fast-growing plant before you know it.
In mixed container plantings, coleus usually serves as an upright "thriller" plant in the center of the container, surrounded by "fillers" and "spillers." In colder zones, container plants are sometimes moved indoors to overwinter.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Groundhogs and young rabbits love coleus. If you can protect your plants early in the season, these pests will usually turn their attention to other plants by mid-summer. Watch out for mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and slugs.
Coleus is not usually bothered by diseases unless the weather turns cool and damp. If that happens, expect to see signs of fungal diseases, such as mildew. Be careful that the plant enjoys good drainage, because standing water can lead to fungal root rot and stem rot.
FAQ
Is coleus easy to care for?
Coleus is very easy to care for. If you plant coleus in containers, you may want to bring it indoors during the winter to help it survive.
How fast does coleus grow?
Coleus quickly grows to full size, potentially up to 36 inches high, in a single season.
Can coleus be grown indoors?
Coleus makes a good container plant that can even be grown indoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月05日
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a great addition to any herb garden. Not only is it a relatively easy plant to grow, but it actually boasts two cooking uses for the price of one. The name cilantro refers to the plant's thin, green stems and flat, lacy leaves, which are best eaten fresh. Its other common name, coriander, refers to the seeds, which are used as a common cooking spice, especially in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisines. Cilantro is best planted in the early spring but also can be started in fall. It grows quickly, often yielding its first harvest of leaves within 30 days. Its seeds will be ready for harvest closer to three months from planting.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月26日
Chinese evergreen is an attractive decorative plant native to Asia with several interesting varietals. They all have large, narrow, and glossy oval leaves on short stems, and flowers (on older plants) that bloom in spring or summer. The Chinese evergreen is one of the most popular houseplants and its color variations—from dark green and silver to red—add personality to your home's decor. Chinese evergreens are slow-growing and make excellent indoor foliage plants that can be potted and cared for year-round. Take care if you have pets because the plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月28日
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a herbaceous perennial that thrives in much of North America and is very easy to grow. It has a clump-forming growth habit with square stems and triangular to oval, gray-green leaves with toothed edges that stretch around 3 inches long. Flower spikes appear in the late spring to early fall, bearing clusters of small blooms that are white with light purple markings.
This plant is a fast grower and can quickly spread throughout the landscape if not kept in check. It will reach its mature size in a single season and should be planted in the spring. Note that, while many cats enjoy catnip, the oils of the plant are technically toxic to them.1
Common Name Catnip, catmint
Botanical Name Nepeta cataria
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.1 to 7.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones 3–7 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
Toxicity Oil is toxic to cats
How to Plant Catnip
When to Plant
Plant catnip in the spring after the threat of frost has passed in your area. Start catnip seeds indoors around six weeks prior to your projected last frost date.
Selecting a Planting Site
The ideal garden location for catnip will get lots of sunlight and have well-drained soil. Make sure no taller plants nearby are creating too much shade for the catnip throughout the day. However, if you live in a hot climate, catnip will appreciate some afternoon shade. Catnip also grows well in containers. In fact, a planting site with some kind of boundary, such as a pot, raised garden bed, or stone wall, will help to contain catnip's spread.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Space catnip plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the garden. Position nursery plants and seedlings at the same depth they were in their previous container. Lightly cover seeds with soil. A support structure is typically not necessary for catnip.
Catnip Plant Care
Light
Catnip prefers full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Too little light can cause leggy growth with sparse foliage. However, catnip does struggle in extreme heat. So if you live in a hot climate, give your catnip a little shade from the strong afternoon sun.
Soil
These plants aren’t fussy about their soil as long as they have good drainage. They can tolerate poor, rocky, and dry soils. A well-draining sandy or loamy soil is best with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Catnip is a very drought-tolerant plant, and sitting in waterlogged soil can kill it. Keep the soil of seedlings lightly moist but not soggy. Mature plants likely won’t need watering unless you have a prolonged period of drought. If the foliage is wilting, give your catnip a deep watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Catnip prefers temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees. The plant tends to struggle in hot, humid climates. Especially in high humidity, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal growth.
Fertilizer
Mix some compost into the soil at the time of planting to give your catnip a boost. After that, catnip typically won’t need additional feeding. But if you have very poor soil, you can use an all-purpose liquid plant food or a layer of compost each spring.
Pollination
Catnip is a self-pollinating plant. It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.
Types of Catnip
Besides Nepeta cataria, there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:
Nepeta citriodora: Known as lemon catnip, this plant grows slightly smaller than Nepeta cataria and has a lemony fragrance.
Nepeta camphorata: Commonly referred to as camphor catnip, this plant remains under 2 feet tall and wide.
Nepeta parnassica: Known as Greek catnip, this plant also remains smaller than 2 feet tall and wide and bears light pink flowers.
Catnip vs. Catmint
The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. And its flowers are purple while catnip’s are primarily white. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not. Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes.
Harvesting Catnip
Harvest catnip when it’s in bloom. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Once they’ve dried out, which usually takes two to three weeks, the leaves and flowers can be crumbled for use.
How to Grow Catnip in Pots
Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, and make sure it has a drainage hole. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.
Pruning
Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. To minimize its spread, prune off the flowers as they’re starting to degrade and before they go to seed. This also can encourage further blooming. Also, cut down new sprouts from underground runners as they appear if you don’t want the plant to spread. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil. They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth.
Propagating Catnip
Catnip will readily spread on its own. But it’s also easy to propagate the plant via cuttings. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Here’s how:
Cut off a 4- to 6-inch piece of stem at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Place the cutting either in a small container of water or moist soilless potting mix. A healthy root system will typically form in either scenario. Put the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the container water each day, or continue to keep the potting mix moist.
Roots should appear within a week. Once the plant has produced new foliage growth, it’s ready to be transplanted.
Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant. Here’s how:
Dig up the plant, aiming to keep its roots as intact as possible.
Use shears or a sharp spade to divide the clump in half.
Replant the separate clumps at the same depth they were previously growing.
How to Grow Catnip From Seed
Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Then, plant the seeds about 1/8 inch deep in a tray filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.
Potting and Repotting Catnip
Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line. Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Even if your plant doesn’t need a larger container, it’s ideal to refresh it with new potting mix every couple of years.
Overwintering
Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones. Cut back any tender new growth in the fall, so cold weather doesn’t damage it and weaken the plant. And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. Don’t water the plant over winter. Wet soil in the wintertime can be fatal.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Catnip isn’t prone to many pest or disease issues. If the plant sits in waterlogged soil for too long, it can succumb to rot. Another concern is the plant attracting cats, who will try to rub and roll on the foliage and potentially damage the stems. Placing some garden fencing or stakes around the plant can help to prevent this, as can growing the catnip in a container.
FAQ
Is catnip easy to grow?
Catnip plants are quite easy to grow and can tolerate many different growing conditions.
How long does it take to grow catnip?
Catnip is a fast grower and will reach its mature size within one growing season.
Does catnip come back every year?
Catnip is a perennial plant and will come back in the garden each year.
This plant is a fast grower and can quickly spread throughout the landscape if not kept in check. It will reach its mature size in a single season and should be planted in the spring. Note that, while many cats enjoy catnip, the oils of the plant are technically toxic to them.1
Common Name Catnip, catmint
Botanical Name Nepeta cataria
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.1 to 7.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones 3–7 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
Toxicity Oil is toxic to cats
How to Plant Catnip
When to Plant
Plant catnip in the spring after the threat of frost has passed in your area. Start catnip seeds indoors around six weeks prior to your projected last frost date.
Selecting a Planting Site
The ideal garden location for catnip will get lots of sunlight and have well-drained soil. Make sure no taller plants nearby are creating too much shade for the catnip throughout the day. However, if you live in a hot climate, catnip will appreciate some afternoon shade. Catnip also grows well in containers. In fact, a planting site with some kind of boundary, such as a pot, raised garden bed, or stone wall, will help to contain catnip's spread.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Space catnip plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the garden. Position nursery plants and seedlings at the same depth they were in their previous container. Lightly cover seeds with soil. A support structure is typically not necessary for catnip.
Catnip Plant Care
Light
Catnip prefers full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Too little light can cause leggy growth with sparse foliage. However, catnip does struggle in extreme heat. So if you live in a hot climate, give your catnip a little shade from the strong afternoon sun.
Soil
These plants aren’t fussy about their soil as long as they have good drainage. They can tolerate poor, rocky, and dry soils. A well-draining sandy or loamy soil is best with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Catnip is a very drought-tolerant plant, and sitting in waterlogged soil can kill it. Keep the soil of seedlings lightly moist but not soggy. Mature plants likely won’t need watering unless you have a prolonged period of drought. If the foliage is wilting, give your catnip a deep watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Catnip prefers temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees. The plant tends to struggle in hot, humid climates. Especially in high humidity, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal growth.
Fertilizer
Mix some compost into the soil at the time of planting to give your catnip a boost. After that, catnip typically won’t need additional feeding. But if you have very poor soil, you can use an all-purpose liquid plant food or a layer of compost each spring.
Pollination
Catnip is a self-pollinating plant. It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.
Types of Catnip
Besides Nepeta cataria, there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:
Nepeta citriodora: Known as lemon catnip, this plant grows slightly smaller than Nepeta cataria and has a lemony fragrance.
Nepeta camphorata: Commonly referred to as camphor catnip, this plant remains under 2 feet tall and wide.
Nepeta parnassica: Known as Greek catnip, this plant also remains smaller than 2 feet tall and wide and bears light pink flowers.
Catnip vs. Catmint
The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. And its flowers are purple while catnip’s are primarily white. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not. Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes.
Harvesting Catnip
Harvest catnip when it’s in bloom. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Once they’ve dried out, which usually takes two to three weeks, the leaves and flowers can be crumbled for use.
How to Grow Catnip in Pots
Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, and make sure it has a drainage hole. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.
Pruning
Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. To minimize its spread, prune off the flowers as they’re starting to degrade and before they go to seed. This also can encourage further blooming. Also, cut down new sprouts from underground runners as they appear if you don’t want the plant to spread. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil. They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth.
Propagating Catnip
Catnip will readily spread on its own. But it’s also easy to propagate the plant via cuttings. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Here’s how:
Cut off a 4- to 6-inch piece of stem at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Place the cutting either in a small container of water or moist soilless potting mix. A healthy root system will typically form in either scenario. Put the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the container water each day, or continue to keep the potting mix moist.
Roots should appear within a week. Once the plant has produced new foliage growth, it’s ready to be transplanted.
Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant. Here’s how:
Dig up the plant, aiming to keep its roots as intact as possible.
Use shears or a sharp spade to divide the clump in half.
Replant the separate clumps at the same depth they were previously growing.
How to Grow Catnip From Seed
Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Then, plant the seeds about 1/8 inch deep in a tray filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.
Potting and Repotting Catnip
Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line. Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Even if your plant doesn’t need a larger container, it’s ideal to refresh it with new potting mix every couple of years.
Overwintering
Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones. Cut back any tender new growth in the fall, so cold weather doesn’t damage it and weaken the plant. And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. Don’t water the plant over winter. Wet soil in the wintertime can be fatal.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Catnip isn’t prone to many pest or disease issues. If the plant sits in waterlogged soil for too long, it can succumb to rot. Another concern is the plant attracting cats, who will try to rub and roll on the foliage and potentially damage the stems. Placing some garden fencing or stakes around the plant can help to prevent this, as can growing the catnip in a container.
FAQ
Is catnip easy to grow?
Catnip plants are quite easy to grow and can tolerate many different growing conditions.
How long does it take to grow catnip?
Catnip is a fast grower and will reach its mature size within one growing season.
Does catnip come back every year?
Catnip is a perennial plant and will come back in the garden each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月13日
Huernia zebrina, commonly referred to as owl eye succulents, are a species of succulents native to South Africa that are known for their distinctive other-worldly blooms. They are characterized by 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges, and yellow and red 5-pointed, star-shaped flowers. Owl eye succulents are not large succulents, growing to only six to eight inches tall. They grow well indoors as houseplants since they generally require warm temperatures in order to thrive. Plus, if you frequently forget to water your houseplants - this is the succulent for you! They thrive on minimal moisture and can survive for several weeks at a time without water if needed.
Botanical Name Huernia zebrina
Common Name Owl eyes succulent, little owl eyes, lifesaver cactus, lifesaver plant, carrion flower, zebra-striped Huernia
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6" spread, 6-8" in height
Sun Exposure Bright light - partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH 6
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, red, purple, white
Native Area South Africa
How to Grow Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Not only are owl eyes succulents eye-catching, but they are easy to grow too. They can be characterized as having low water needs, and don’t require as much light as other succulents do. Generally, they don’t require pruning either, unless you are hoping to shape the plant or reduce its size. If you do prune an owl eyes succulent make sure to keep the cuttings - these can be used for propagation later on!
For those looking to grow this plant indoors, it is important to know that some varieties can exude a pungent smell similar to that of carrion to attract flies and encourage pollination. However, not all varieties have this characteristic.
Light
Unlike most succulents, Huernia zebrina does not tolerate hot, direct sun. Plants that receive too much light will turn red or purple, rather than deep green. In their natural habitat owl eyes, succulents grow beneath shrubs or other plants so they prefer bright light to partial shade conditions.
Water
Owl eyes succulents are sensitive to overwatering and can easily develop root rot. As a result, the roots should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. In the active growing season (spring and summer) owl eyes succulents will need more water than in the dormant season (fall and winter).
Soil
In their natural habitat, owl eyes succulents grow in open dry shrubland and stony areas. The soil is often calcrete or loamy Consequently, owl eyes succulents require a potting mix with excellent drainage to help mimic their natural environment. A mixture of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25% sand is perfect for Huernia zebrina and will help to prevent root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Owl eyes succulents need warm temperatures. They do best between 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 27 degrees Celsius) and should be protected from cold or freezing temperatures. Place owl eyes succulents outdoors during the summer for best growth, but ensure to bring them back indoors before the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, owl eyes succulents don’t require frequent fertilization. However, they can benefit from monthly fertilization throughout the growing season. Use a balanced liquid plant food or succulent fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15, once per month diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing before the end of the summer to ensure that new growth is not developing as the plant goes into dormancy.
Potting and Repotting
The roots of owl eyes succulents experience dieback in their cool-seasoned dormant, so they do best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out completely. Bonsai planters, for example, are great for Heurnia zebrina. Otherwise, using unglazed clay or terracotta pots for owl eyes succulents is recommended as they will help to keep the soil dry.
Propagating Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Owl eyes succulents can be propagated by cuttings easily. Take cuttings of the stems and set them aside for 24 hours to allow the ends to callous over. Plant the calloused end of the cutting in a well-draining potting mix and place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Do not water the new plant until small roots begin to form, approximately two and three weeks.
Common Pests/Diseases
Owl eyes succulents are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as spider mites, thrips, and aphids. Unfortunately, Huernia zebrina is especially attractive to mealy bugs. Treat infested succulents by rubbing the plant with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol to remove the bugs.
Botanical Name Huernia zebrina
Common Name Owl eyes succulent, little owl eyes, lifesaver cactus, lifesaver plant, carrion flower, zebra-striped Huernia
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6" spread, 6-8" in height
Sun Exposure Bright light - partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH 6
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, red, purple, white
Native Area South Africa
How to Grow Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Not only are owl eyes succulents eye-catching, but they are easy to grow too. They can be characterized as having low water needs, and don’t require as much light as other succulents do. Generally, they don’t require pruning either, unless you are hoping to shape the plant or reduce its size. If you do prune an owl eyes succulent make sure to keep the cuttings - these can be used for propagation later on!
For those looking to grow this plant indoors, it is important to know that some varieties can exude a pungent smell similar to that of carrion to attract flies and encourage pollination. However, not all varieties have this characteristic.
Light
Unlike most succulents, Huernia zebrina does not tolerate hot, direct sun. Plants that receive too much light will turn red or purple, rather than deep green. In their natural habitat owl eyes, succulents grow beneath shrubs or other plants so they prefer bright light to partial shade conditions.
Water
Owl eyes succulents are sensitive to overwatering and can easily develop root rot. As a result, the roots should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. In the active growing season (spring and summer) owl eyes succulents will need more water than in the dormant season (fall and winter).
Soil
In their natural habitat, owl eyes succulents grow in open dry shrubland and stony areas. The soil is often calcrete or loamy Consequently, owl eyes succulents require a potting mix with excellent drainage to help mimic their natural environment. A mixture of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25% sand is perfect for Huernia zebrina and will help to prevent root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Owl eyes succulents need warm temperatures. They do best between 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 27 degrees Celsius) and should be protected from cold or freezing temperatures. Place owl eyes succulents outdoors during the summer for best growth, but ensure to bring them back indoors before the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, owl eyes succulents don’t require frequent fertilization. However, they can benefit from monthly fertilization throughout the growing season. Use a balanced liquid plant food or succulent fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15, once per month diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing before the end of the summer to ensure that new growth is not developing as the plant goes into dormancy.
Potting and Repotting
The roots of owl eyes succulents experience dieback in their cool-seasoned dormant, so they do best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out completely. Bonsai planters, for example, are great for Heurnia zebrina. Otherwise, using unglazed clay or terracotta pots for owl eyes succulents is recommended as they will help to keep the soil dry.
Propagating Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Owl eyes succulents can be propagated by cuttings easily. Take cuttings of the stems and set them aside for 24 hours to allow the ends to callous over. Plant the calloused end of the cutting in a well-draining potting mix and place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Do not water the new plant until small roots begin to form, approximately two and three weeks.
Common Pests/Diseases
Owl eyes succulents are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as spider mites, thrips, and aphids. Unfortunately, Huernia zebrina is especially attractive to mealy bugs. Treat infested succulents by rubbing the plant with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol to remove the bugs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月17日
Candy corn plant is a small semi-woody evergreen shrub that derives its name from the color and shape of the flowers, which closely mimic the familiar bulk candy by the same name. These are clumping plants with narrow leaves that cover upright red stems, from which bloom the yellow and red tubular flowers that resemble kernels of candy corn.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月18日
Arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum) is a fairly small flowering shrub that is part of the honeysuckle family. It grows in an upright, rounded shape with stems of glossy green, oval foliage with toothed edges. The leaves are around 4 inches long. In the late spring, the shrub bears showy white flowers that stretch roughly 2 to 4 inches across. Blue-black fruits appear after the flowers and tend to attract birds and other wildlife. In the fall, the shrub’s foliage turns to shades of yellow, orange, and red. Arrowwood viburnum has a moderate growth rate. It can be planted in the spring or early fall.
Botanical Name Viburnum dentatum
Common Names Arrowwood viburnum, southern arrowwood, American arrowwood, roughish arrowwood
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–10 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 2–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Arrowwood Viburnum Care
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs are good for border plantings, as well as for use as hedges and screens. In ideal growing conditions and with excellent care the shrubs can reach 15 feet tall, but normally they are a bit smaller than that. They also are a good choice for planting in areas of your yard that are too wet for many other plants, as they can handle wet soil.
In terms of their care, plan to water whenever the soil begins to dry out. Fertilization will generally be an annual task, along with pruning. The shrubs can spread out of their bounds via suckers traveling through the soil. So cut back these suckers if you wish to prevent the shrub’s spread. Moreover, if you live in a climate that has considerable temperature fluctuations, a light layer of mulch around your shrub can help to keep its roots at a consistent temperature as well as to retain soil moisture.
Light
This shrub grows well in full sunlight to partial shade, meaning it needs at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days. In hot climates, shade from the strong afternoon sun is ideal. But too little sun can impede flowering.
Soil
Arrowwood viburnum prefers a loamy, well-drained soil. But it can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay soil. It likes an acidic soil pH.
Water
The shrub needs at least a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants have some drought tolerance. They also can handle occasional flooding. Keep young shrubs well watered, and continue to give established plants water whenever the soil begins to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
The shrubs prefer temperate conditions, though they have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. Make sure to water them well in very hot weather to minimize plant stress, and give them protection if your temperatures will be unseasonably cold to prevent foliage damage. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrubs.
Fertilizer
To encourage healthy growth and profuse flowering, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It also can be beneficial to mix compost into the soil around your shrub.
Common Pests/Diseases
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they might be bothered by the viburnum leaf beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni). This beetle has become a major problem for viburnum shrubs in Europe and North America. Both the adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of the bushes. And if not controlled, the pest can defoliate your shrubs completely, resulting in their death. The female beetles lay their eggs on the undersides of the shrub stems. So if you notice dark spots there, it’s best to prune off those stems and dispose of them before the eggs hatch in the spring. Use organic pesticides only for serious infestations, as they also can kill beneficial insects.
Pruning
These shrubs don’t need extensive pruning. Right after the plant is done flowering, prune any stems necessary to maintain the shrub’s shape. But avoid taking off more than a third of the shrub's overall size. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub whenever you spot them.
Viburnum Varieties
There are several species and varieties of viburnum shrubs, including:
Burkwood viburnum: Burkwood viburnum grows to around 8 to 10 feet tall with a slightly smaller spread. Its glossy leaves and fragrant flowers are its main selling points.
Doublefile viburnum: Doublefile viburnum is a beetle-resistant bush and has showier flowers than arrowwood viburnum.
Korean spice viburnum: Not only is Korean spice viburnum beetle-resistant, but it is also very fragrant.
Mapleleaf viburnum: Mapleleaf viburnum sports unusual pinkish fall foliage and reaches around 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.
Snowball bush viburnum: This shrub's common name says it all. Gardeners grow snowball bush for the rounded shape of its white flower heads.
Botanical Name Viburnum dentatum
Common Names Arrowwood viburnum, southern arrowwood, American arrowwood, roughish arrowwood
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–10 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 2–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Arrowwood Viburnum Care
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs are good for border plantings, as well as for use as hedges and screens. In ideal growing conditions and with excellent care the shrubs can reach 15 feet tall, but normally they are a bit smaller than that. They also are a good choice for planting in areas of your yard that are too wet for many other plants, as they can handle wet soil.
In terms of their care, plan to water whenever the soil begins to dry out. Fertilization will generally be an annual task, along with pruning. The shrubs can spread out of their bounds via suckers traveling through the soil. So cut back these suckers if you wish to prevent the shrub’s spread. Moreover, if you live in a climate that has considerable temperature fluctuations, a light layer of mulch around your shrub can help to keep its roots at a consistent temperature as well as to retain soil moisture.
Light
This shrub grows well in full sunlight to partial shade, meaning it needs at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days. In hot climates, shade from the strong afternoon sun is ideal. But too little sun can impede flowering.
Soil
Arrowwood viburnum prefers a loamy, well-drained soil. But it can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay soil. It likes an acidic soil pH.
Water
The shrub needs at least a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants have some drought tolerance. They also can handle occasional flooding. Keep young shrubs well watered, and continue to give established plants water whenever the soil begins to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
The shrubs prefer temperate conditions, though they have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. Make sure to water them well in very hot weather to minimize plant stress, and give them protection if your temperatures will be unseasonably cold to prevent foliage damage. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrubs.
Fertilizer
To encourage healthy growth and profuse flowering, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It also can be beneficial to mix compost into the soil around your shrub.
Common Pests/Diseases
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they might be bothered by the viburnum leaf beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni). This beetle has become a major problem for viburnum shrubs in Europe and North America. Both the adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of the bushes. And if not controlled, the pest can defoliate your shrubs completely, resulting in their death. The female beetles lay their eggs on the undersides of the shrub stems. So if you notice dark spots there, it’s best to prune off those stems and dispose of them before the eggs hatch in the spring. Use organic pesticides only for serious infestations, as they also can kill beneficial insects.
Pruning
These shrubs don’t need extensive pruning. Right after the plant is done flowering, prune any stems necessary to maintain the shrub’s shape. But avoid taking off more than a third of the shrub's overall size. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub whenever you spot them.
Viburnum Varieties
There are several species and varieties of viburnum shrubs, including:
Burkwood viburnum: Burkwood viburnum grows to around 8 to 10 feet tall with a slightly smaller spread. Its glossy leaves and fragrant flowers are its main selling points.
Doublefile viburnum: Doublefile viburnum is a beetle-resistant bush and has showier flowers than arrowwood viburnum.
Korean spice viburnum: Not only is Korean spice viburnum beetle-resistant, but it is also very fragrant.
Mapleleaf viburnum: Mapleleaf viburnum sports unusual pinkish fall foliage and reaches around 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.
Snowball bush viburnum: This shrub's common name says it all. Gardeners grow snowball bush for the rounded shape of its white flower heads.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月05日
Distribution and habitat: Euphorbia milii is a species of flowering plant in the spurge family Euphorbiaciae, native to Madagascar. It is a succulent climbing shrub with densely spiny stems. The straight, slender spines help Euphorbia milii scramble over other plants. The leaves are found mainly on new growth and are obovate. The flowers are small, subtended by a pair of conspicuous petal-like bracts, variably red, pink or white.
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
莹723
2020年09月27日
Slugs are a particular problem in spring, when plenty of young plants are growing.Tell-tale signs of slug damage include irregularly-shaped holes in leaves, stems, flowers, tubers and bulbs and potatoes, and silvery slime trails.
There are many options for controlling slugs, including going out at night with a torch and bucket to pick slugs off by hand. However, you should keep them under control in spring, combine a few methods.Protect all seedlings, new growth on most herbaceous plants, and all parts of susceptible plants, such as delphiniums and hostas.
Here are six ways to stop slugs for you.
1.Use organic slug pellets
Pellets made from ferric phosphate are approved for use by organic growers and are just as effective as non-organic ones but less harmful to birds and other wildlife. Scatter the pellets on the soil as soon as you can before tender growth appears.
2.Water in biological control
Microscopic nematodes can infect slugs with bacteria and then kill them, it’s an effective biological control by watered into the soil. Apply in the evenings when the soil is warm and moist, from spring onwards.
3.Use copper barriers
Copper barriers are effective slug deterrents – if a slug tries to cross one it receives an ‘electric shock’, forcing it back. Put copper rings around vulnerable plants, or stick copper tape around the rim of pots.
4.Use beer traps
They’re attracted to the smell, so make a slug trap with cheap beer. Do this by sinking a beer trap or container into the ground, with the rim just above soil level. Half fill with beer and the cover with a loose lid to stop other creatures falling in. Check and empty regularly.
5.Let them eat bran
Slugs love bran and will gorge on it. They then become bloated and dehydrated, and can’t hide, making them easy pickings for birds. Make sure the bran doesn’t get wet, though.
6.Slug-resistant plants to grow
Hellebores
Astilbes
Hardy geraniums
Eryngiums
Agastaches
Penstemons
Sidalcea
Astrantia
Ferns
Ornamental grasses
Verbena bonariensis
There are many options for controlling slugs, including going out at night with a torch and bucket to pick slugs off by hand. However, you should keep them under control in spring, combine a few methods.Protect all seedlings, new growth on most herbaceous plants, and all parts of susceptible plants, such as delphiniums and hostas.
Here are six ways to stop slugs for you.
1.Use organic slug pellets
Pellets made from ferric phosphate are approved for use by organic growers and are just as effective as non-organic ones but less harmful to birds and other wildlife. Scatter the pellets on the soil as soon as you can before tender growth appears.
2.Water in biological control
Microscopic nematodes can infect slugs with bacteria and then kill them, it’s an effective biological control by watered into the soil. Apply in the evenings when the soil is warm and moist, from spring onwards.
3.Use copper barriers
Copper barriers are effective slug deterrents – if a slug tries to cross one it receives an ‘electric shock’, forcing it back. Put copper rings around vulnerable plants, or stick copper tape around the rim of pots.
4.Use beer traps
They’re attracted to the smell, so make a slug trap with cheap beer. Do this by sinking a beer trap or container into the ground, with the rim just above soil level. Half fill with beer and the cover with a loose lid to stop other creatures falling in. Check and empty regularly.
5.Let them eat bran
Slugs love bran and will gorge on it. They then become bloated and dehydrated, and can’t hide, making them easy pickings for birds. Make sure the bran doesn’t get wet, though.
6.Slug-resistant plants to grow
Hellebores
Astilbes
Hardy geraniums
Eryngiums
Agastaches
Penstemons
Sidalcea
Astrantia
Ferns
Ornamental grasses
Verbena bonariensis
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文章
莹723
2020年09月25日
Cactus plants, or cacti, make excellent indoor plants. Like succulents, they’re used to the hot, sunny, dry conditions of desert. Their leafless stems are designed to store water, so they can cope with drought. As such they need very little watering and can even rot if given too much. Cacti can be grown in pots or terrariums for years. They have different shapes and sizes and if you’re lucky, they bear delightful, colored flowers in summer.
1.How to plant cacti
Always plant cacti with care. The spines can prick and hurt your skin. It’s a good idea to use common kitchen items such as a thick tea towel, spoon and fork to help you.
Mulch with a layer of horticultural grit or pebbles to complete the look of the pot display. This also prevents water splashing back on the cactus.
2.How to propagate cacti
Cactus can be grown from seed although it can take several years for plants to reach a decent size. You can buy mixed cactus seed cheaply, and it’s fun to see which cactus varieties you end up with.
To grow cactus from seed, fill a pot with a moist, gritty, free-draining compost, firm down and level. Scatter cactus seeds over the surface, taking care not to sow them too thickly. Then, gently sprinkle a thin layer of vermiculite or fine grit over the seeds. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to preserve soil moisture, and leave the in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill. You may need to find an alternative spot for them in winter if the windowsill becomes too cold.
Some cacti can be propagated from cuttings. Others bear offsets, which can simply be snipped off the plant and potted on.
3.Caring for cactus plants
In summer, water cacti no more than once a week. A good watering less often is better than a little-and-often approach. You shouldn’t need to water cacti at all in the coldest months.
Repot cacti every couple of years, to give them fresh compost – you won’t necessarily need to pot them into a larger pot.
4.Growing cactus plants: problem solving
Cactus plants are usually trouble free. If overwatered or not given enough light they can rot at the base. This is usually fatal for the plants.
Cactus plants can develop spindly growth but it’s easy to rectify.
5.Cactus varieties to grow
Echinocactus grusonii – golden barrel cactus is globe-shaped but eventually grows tall. Native to Mexico, it bears bright green stems with spiked ribs. Bright yellow flowers appear in summer.
Gymnocalycium paraguayense – a variable cactus with flattened spines. It produces creamy white flowers in spring and summer.
Mammillaria spinosissima – a globe-shaped cactus with bright pink, funnel-shaped flowers. Its central spines are a reddish-brown or yellow.
Rebutia krainziana – a clump-forming barrel cactus, forming dark green stems up to 7cm in diameter, with contrasting small, white areoles and spines. In late spring large, yellow or red flowers develop around the main stem, forming a tight clump.
1.How to plant cacti
Always plant cacti with care. The spines can prick and hurt your skin. It’s a good idea to use common kitchen items such as a thick tea towel, spoon and fork to help you.
Mulch with a layer of horticultural grit or pebbles to complete the look of the pot display. This also prevents water splashing back on the cactus.
2.How to propagate cacti
Cactus can be grown from seed although it can take several years for plants to reach a decent size. You can buy mixed cactus seed cheaply, and it’s fun to see which cactus varieties you end up with.
To grow cactus from seed, fill a pot with a moist, gritty, free-draining compost, firm down and level. Scatter cactus seeds over the surface, taking care not to sow them too thickly. Then, gently sprinkle a thin layer of vermiculite or fine grit over the seeds. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to preserve soil moisture, and leave the in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill. You may need to find an alternative spot for them in winter if the windowsill becomes too cold.
Some cacti can be propagated from cuttings. Others bear offsets, which can simply be snipped off the plant and potted on.
3.Caring for cactus plants
In summer, water cacti no more than once a week. A good watering less often is better than a little-and-often approach. You shouldn’t need to water cacti at all in the coldest months.
Repot cacti every couple of years, to give them fresh compost – you won’t necessarily need to pot them into a larger pot.
4.Growing cactus plants: problem solving
Cactus plants are usually trouble free. If overwatered or not given enough light they can rot at the base. This is usually fatal for the plants.
Cactus plants can develop spindly growth but it’s easy to rectify.
5.Cactus varieties to grow
Echinocactus grusonii – golden barrel cactus is globe-shaped but eventually grows tall. Native to Mexico, it bears bright green stems with spiked ribs. Bright yellow flowers appear in summer.
Gymnocalycium paraguayense – a variable cactus with flattened spines. It produces creamy white flowers in spring and summer.
Mammillaria spinosissima – a globe-shaped cactus with bright pink, funnel-shaped flowers. Its central spines are a reddish-brown or yellow.
Rebutia krainziana – a clump-forming barrel cactus, forming dark green stems up to 7cm in diameter, with contrasting small, white areoles and spines. In late spring large, yellow or red flowers develop around the main stem, forming a tight clump.
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