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Miss Chen
2021年09月10日
Is there a more welcome sight in spring than an azalea shrub in full bloom? These shade-loving plants can bring delightful color to all corners of the spring garden. Heirloom varieties can grow as high as twelve feet tall, with spectacular displays in spring. The range of colors is spectacular, from white to pale pink to a range of reds and purples. Most azaleas bloom in mid-spring (mid to late April), but some bloom earlier or later than others, and it's easy to choose a variety for your design needs. Like their larger cousins, the Rhododendron ferrugineum, the azalea's thick leaves can remain evergreen, though most varieties grown in the United States are deciduous.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Producing a new azalea (Rhododendron spp.) from cuttings creates a new plant with the same characteristics as its parent. Reproducing azaleas from cuttings is often the only way to duplicate the style of a particular plant, since many azaleas are hybridized plants that can't reproduce the same traits from seed. Azalea species such as flame azalea (Rhododendron calendulaceum) often have a narrow growing range. Flame azaleas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 7.
Best Azalea Cuttings
Growing evergreen azaleas from cuttings is typically much more successful than their deciduous counterparts. During the summer after the new growth from the spring season has just begun to harden and turn brown is the best time to take an azalea cutting. The most viable cuttings come from healthy plants that are not stressed by malnutrition, insect damage or disease. A growing azalea branch that is brown but still flexible 3 to 6 inches from its tip with several healthy leaves is an ideal candidate. Dipping the blades of your cutting shears in rubbing alcohol and air-drying them is an effective way to avoid introducing diseases to your azalea and the cutting.
Preparing the Container
The Clemson University Cooperative Extension recommends starting azalea cuttings in a mix of peat and perlite in equal parts. Wetting the soil before you insert an azalea cutting encourages rooting and helps keep the cutting hydrated. You can use any planting container large enough to hold the cuttings that is clean and has drainage holes. You can sterilize used containers by rinsing them with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
Preparing Azalea Cuttings
Removing the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting reduces the amount of nutrients and water it will lose before it can establish roots. Leave at least two leaves near the tip of the cutting. Trimming the stem just beneath the point where the first leaf attached to the cutting removes excess material that cannot form roots. Dipping the bottom third of the trimmed cutting in a powered rooting hormone improves its ability to generate new roots. Gently tap the cutting's stem to dislodge excess rooting hormone after dipping it.
Planting Azalea Cuttings
Cuttings often fail to take root, but planting several cuttings at the same time improves the odds that at least one will take. Azalea cuttings need 2 to 3 inches of space between the edge of the container and other cuttings to thrive. Insert each cutting into the soil until the bottom third of the stem is covered and gently firm the soil around the cutting's base to prevent it from falling over.
Caring for Azalea Cuttings
Cuttings can not replenish water they lose until they have formed new roots. Maintaining a high level of humidity around the leaves of the cuttings helps reduce water loss, preventing your cuttings from drying out. You can increase the humidity around an azalea cutting by misting its leaves with water and covering it with a clear plastic bag or the severed bottom half of a plastic 2-liter bottle. Once the cutting develops roots, the plastic cover can be removed. When the cutting develops resistance to a gentle tug, its roots have begun growing. Until the roots have had time to establish themselves fully, the cutting needs regular, light watering to keep the soil around the roots from drying out.
Safe Handling
Nearly all parts of azalea plants are toxic when consumed. Wearing gloves while working with cuttings and washing your tools and hands after you are finished helps prevent cases of accidental poisoning. Avoid eating or handling food while you are working with the cuttings.
Best Azalea Cuttings
Growing evergreen azaleas from cuttings is typically much more successful than their deciduous counterparts. During the summer after the new growth from the spring season has just begun to harden and turn brown is the best time to take an azalea cutting. The most viable cuttings come from healthy plants that are not stressed by malnutrition, insect damage or disease. A growing azalea branch that is brown but still flexible 3 to 6 inches from its tip with several healthy leaves is an ideal candidate. Dipping the blades of your cutting shears in rubbing alcohol and air-drying them is an effective way to avoid introducing diseases to your azalea and the cutting.
Preparing the Container
The Clemson University Cooperative Extension recommends starting azalea cuttings in a mix of peat and perlite in equal parts. Wetting the soil before you insert an azalea cutting encourages rooting and helps keep the cutting hydrated. You can use any planting container large enough to hold the cuttings that is clean and has drainage holes. You can sterilize used containers by rinsing them with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
Preparing Azalea Cuttings
Removing the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting reduces the amount of nutrients and water it will lose before it can establish roots. Leave at least two leaves near the tip of the cutting. Trimming the stem just beneath the point where the first leaf attached to the cutting removes excess material that cannot form roots. Dipping the bottom third of the trimmed cutting in a powered rooting hormone improves its ability to generate new roots. Gently tap the cutting's stem to dislodge excess rooting hormone after dipping it.
Planting Azalea Cuttings
Cuttings often fail to take root, but planting several cuttings at the same time improves the odds that at least one will take. Azalea cuttings need 2 to 3 inches of space between the edge of the container and other cuttings to thrive. Insert each cutting into the soil until the bottom third of the stem is covered and gently firm the soil around the cutting's base to prevent it from falling over.
Caring for Azalea Cuttings
Cuttings can not replenish water they lose until they have formed new roots. Maintaining a high level of humidity around the leaves of the cuttings helps reduce water loss, preventing your cuttings from drying out. You can increase the humidity around an azalea cutting by misting its leaves with water and covering it with a clear plastic bag or the severed bottom half of a plastic 2-liter bottle. Once the cutting develops roots, the plastic cover can be removed. When the cutting develops resistance to a gentle tug, its roots have begun growing. Until the roots have had time to establish themselves fully, the cutting needs regular, light watering to keep the soil around the roots from drying out.
Safe Handling
Nearly all parts of azalea plants are toxic when consumed. Wearing gloves while working with cuttings and washing your tools and hands after you are finished helps prevent cases of accidental poisoning. Avoid eating or handling food while you are working with the cuttings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Rhododendron ferrugineum L.
Common Names
Alpenrose, Snow Rose, Rusty-leaved Alpenrose, Alpine Rose
Synonyms
Azalea ferruginea, Chamaerhododendron ferrugineum, Plinthocroma ferrugineum
Scientific Classification
Family: Ericaceae
Subfamily: Ericoideae
Tribe: Rhodoreae
Genus: Rhododendron
Flower
Color: Pinkish-red
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Rhododendron ferrugineum is an evergreen shrub that grows up to 3.3 feet (1 m) tall and produces clusters of pinkish-red, bell-shaped flowers throughout the summer. The undersides of the leaves are covered in rust-brown spots, which give the species its scientific name.
How to Grow and Care
Once properly located in the planting bed, water thoroughly and cover with an organic mulch which will break down to supply nutrients as it decomposes. A pine bark covering applied at 2 inches (5 cm) is thought to inhibit fungi that cause root rot. Do not mulch with peat moss, as it is difficult to rewet after it has dried out. Proper mulching will decrease the need for future care.
Rhododendron care includes a yearly fertilization which is best applied in fall, following a hard freeze or in early spring. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants, such as organic cottonseed meal. The organic material you have worked into the soil previously will break down to provided some of the necessary nutrients.
Consistently moist soil is needed for proper care, but too much water creates problems for the growing Rhododendron. When leaves curl and twist, this indicates that water is needed immediately. The Rhododendron bush should not be allowed to go through the stress of wilting.
Origin
It is distributed in the Alps, Pyrenees, Jura and northern Apennines.
Rhododendron ferrugineum L.
Common Names
Alpenrose, Snow Rose, Rusty-leaved Alpenrose, Alpine Rose
Synonyms
Azalea ferruginea, Chamaerhododendron ferrugineum, Plinthocroma ferrugineum
Scientific Classification
Family: Ericaceae
Subfamily: Ericoideae
Tribe: Rhodoreae
Genus: Rhododendron
Flower
Color: Pinkish-red
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Rhododendron ferrugineum is an evergreen shrub that grows up to 3.3 feet (1 m) tall and produces clusters of pinkish-red, bell-shaped flowers throughout the summer. The undersides of the leaves are covered in rust-brown spots, which give the species its scientific name.
How to Grow and Care
Once properly located in the planting bed, water thoroughly and cover with an organic mulch which will break down to supply nutrients as it decomposes. A pine bark covering applied at 2 inches (5 cm) is thought to inhibit fungi that cause root rot. Do not mulch with peat moss, as it is difficult to rewet after it has dried out. Proper mulching will decrease the need for future care.
Rhododendron care includes a yearly fertilization which is best applied in fall, following a hard freeze or in early spring. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants, such as organic cottonseed meal. The organic material you have worked into the soil previously will break down to provided some of the necessary nutrients.
Consistently moist soil is needed for proper care, but too much water creates problems for the growing Rhododendron. When leaves curl and twist, this indicates that water is needed immediately. The Rhododendron bush should not be allowed to go through the stress of wilting.
Origin
It is distributed in the Alps, Pyrenees, Jura and northern Apennines.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月22日
La azalea es un arbusto de la familia de las ericáceas que puede cultivarse en el jardín y como planta de interior. No es de cultivo fácil pero en cuanto se conocen sus especiales necesidades tampoco resulta tan complejo. Es originaria de China y Japón, alcanza una altura de unos 70 cm y cuenta con numerosos tallos ramificados y leñosos.
Las flores en forma de cáliz se agrupan en inflorescencias que aparecen en el extremo de los tallos. Pueden ser blancas o de distintos tonos que van desde el rosa pálido al púrpura. Hay especies cuyas flores tienen una corola con cinco pétalos y otras que presentan flores de doble corola con gran número de pétalos.
Las azaleas florecen en primavera y verano y la floración precede incluso a la aparición de las hojas. Hay muchas variedades de azaleas: enanas, gigantes, de hoja perenne y de hoja caduca o semiperenne. Las variedades de hoja perenne son sensibles al frío por lo que llegado el invierno hay que guardarlas en casa donde las situaremos en lugares con mucha luz y temperatura alrededor de 10 a 15 °.
Las variedades de hoja caduca o semiperennes se cultivan en exterior, buscando siempre que queden protegidas por árboles grandes por ejemplo. En los lugares de clima frío hay que plantar la azalea en un lugar bien soleado, en cambio en las zonas de veranos muy cálidos hay que cultivarla en sombra parcial. El suelo debe ser muy rico en materia orgánica, húmedo pero bien drenado y con un pH ácido.
Las claves para tener éxito con las azaleas son usar un suelo ácido, regar mucho, a diario durante la floración y usar para ello agua sin cal. En la temporada de latencia hay que mantener el suelo húmedo pero evitando cualquier encharcamiento. Cuando las raíces asomen por los orificios de drenaje de la maceta será el momento de transplantarlas.
Las flores en forma de cáliz se agrupan en inflorescencias que aparecen en el extremo de los tallos. Pueden ser blancas o de distintos tonos que van desde el rosa pálido al púrpura. Hay especies cuyas flores tienen una corola con cinco pétalos y otras que presentan flores de doble corola con gran número de pétalos.
Las azaleas florecen en primavera y verano y la floración precede incluso a la aparición de las hojas. Hay muchas variedades de azaleas: enanas, gigantes, de hoja perenne y de hoja caduca o semiperenne. Las variedades de hoja perenne son sensibles al frío por lo que llegado el invierno hay que guardarlas en casa donde las situaremos en lugares con mucha luz y temperatura alrededor de 10 a 15 °.
Las variedades de hoja caduca o semiperennes se cultivan en exterior, buscando siempre que queden protegidas por árboles grandes por ejemplo. En los lugares de clima frío hay que plantar la azalea en un lugar bien soleado, en cambio en las zonas de veranos muy cálidos hay que cultivarla en sombra parcial. El suelo debe ser muy rico en materia orgánica, húmedo pero bien drenado y con un pH ácido.
Las claves para tener éxito con las azaleas son usar un suelo ácido, regar mucho, a diario durante la floración y usar para ello agua sin cal. En la temporada de latencia hay que mantener el suelo húmedo pero evitando cualquier encharcamiento. Cuando las raíces asomen por los orificios de drenaje de la maceta será el momento de transplantarlas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
There are approximately 140 North American species of lace bugs. Most have a specific host preference, which aids in identification. Some of the important species of lace bugs are for the azalea - Stephanitis pyrioides, hawthorn - Corythucha cydoniae, lantana - Teleonemia scrupulosa, and hackberry - C. celtidis. Lace bugs also feed on oak, elm, basswood, fringetree, and pyracantha among others.
The different species of adults vary from 1/8 to 3/8 inch in length but all have wings and thorax beautifully sculptured with an intricate pattern of veins that resembles lace. The nymphs are dark and are pointed at both ends. Lace bugs, both immature and adults, are most often found on the underside of leaves.
The London plane tree, Platanus acerifolia, is more susceptible to the lace bug than the sycamore, Plantanus occidentalis; both are hosts to the same species of lace bug.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
If heavily infested, the leaves may turn yellow and fall from trees and shrubs. The lace bug feeding mechanism is one that pierces and sucks the plant juices from leaves. This leaves tiny chlorotic flecks on the upper leaf surface. The underside of the leaves will have adults and spiny, dark-colored nymphs. The underside of leaves will look dirty with dark-brown spots and stains. When disturbed, lace bugs exhibit a peculiar bouncing movement.
Life Cycle
Female lace bugs lay groups of eggs on the underside of leaves most often along the midrib. These eggs are partially inserted into the leaf tissue and are pale and almost completely hidden inside the leaf. Many species secrete a brownish substance that hardens over the eggs and secures them to the leaf. Dark spiny nymphs hatch from the eggs and go through 5 to 6 nymphal instars before reaching adulthood. A complete life cycle takes only 30 to 40 days; several generations may occur each year. Lace bugs are more prevalent in late summer and fall. In late summer, both adults and nymphs will be feeding at the same time. Some species overwinter as eggs in the leaf or bark crevices or similar protected areas while other species overwinter in the adult stage.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the insects but maintain plant vigor. In many cases, the damage occurs late enough in the season or is minor enough not to require action. Keeping plants healthy by watering during periods of drought will limit any damage caused by the insects.
2. Select planting areas carefully. Plant susceptible species away from sidewalks and lawns as dropping leaves, twigs, and lace bug excrement can be bad enough to be considered unpleasant.
3. Spray with water. Nymphs can be dislodged by forceful sprays of water and are vulnerable to control by contact with insecticidal soaps.
4. Sanitation. Prompt removal of leaves and twigs under plants can remove overwintering pests and limit the chances of reinfestation.
5. Control. Natural enemies are usually effective in maintaining populations at a low level and bringing outbreaks under control. Chemical controls are usually only used on shade and ornamental trees. Control of the azalea lace bug on evergreen azaleas is often required as the loss of leaves on these plants can have a more serious impact on plant health.
6. Use insecticides. Pesticides registered for use include acephate (Orthene), bendiocarb (Turcam, Closure), capsaicin, carbaryl (Sevin), disulfoton (Di-syston), malathion, permethrin, pyrethrins, and horticultural oils. Spray as soon as eggs hatch on leaves in early spring. Some control is possible with a dormant spray applied just before growth in spring.
The different species of adults vary from 1/8 to 3/8 inch in length but all have wings and thorax beautifully sculptured with an intricate pattern of veins that resembles lace. The nymphs are dark and are pointed at both ends. Lace bugs, both immature and adults, are most often found on the underside of leaves.
The London plane tree, Platanus acerifolia, is more susceptible to the lace bug than the sycamore, Plantanus occidentalis; both are hosts to the same species of lace bug.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
If heavily infested, the leaves may turn yellow and fall from trees and shrubs. The lace bug feeding mechanism is one that pierces and sucks the plant juices from leaves. This leaves tiny chlorotic flecks on the upper leaf surface. The underside of the leaves will have adults and spiny, dark-colored nymphs. The underside of leaves will look dirty with dark-brown spots and stains. When disturbed, lace bugs exhibit a peculiar bouncing movement.
Life Cycle
Female lace bugs lay groups of eggs on the underside of leaves most often along the midrib. These eggs are partially inserted into the leaf tissue and are pale and almost completely hidden inside the leaf. Many species secrete a brownish substance that hardens over the eggs and secures them to the leaf. Dark spiny nymphs hatch from the eggs and go through 5 to 6 nymphal instars before reaching adulthood. A complete life cycle takes only 30 to 40 days; several generations may occur each year. Lace bugs are more prevalent in late summer and fall. In late summer, both adults and nymphs will be feeding at the same time. Some species overwinter as eggs in the leaf or bark crevices or similar protected areas while other species overwinter in the adult stage.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the insects but maintain plant vigor. In many cases, the damage occurs late enough in the season or is minor enough not to require action. Keeping plants healthy by watering during periods of drought will limit any damage caused by the insects.
2. Select planting areas carefully. Plant susceptible species away from sidewalks and lawns as dropping leaves, twigs, and lace bug excrement can be bad enough to be considered unpleasant.
3. Spray with water. Nymphs can be dislodged by forceful sprays of water and are vulnerable to control by contact with insecticidal soaps.
4. Sanitation. Prompt removal of leaves and twigs under plants can remove overwintering pests and limit the chances of reinfestation.
5. Control. Natural enemies are usually effective in maintaining populations at a low level and bringing outbreaks under control. Chemical controls are usually only used on shade and ornamental trees. Control of the azalea lace bug on evergreen azaleas is often required as the loss of leaves on these plants can have a more serious impact on plant health.
6. Use insecticides. Pesticides registered for use include acephate (Orthene), bendiocarb (Turcam, Closure), capsaicin, carbaryl (Sevin), disulfoton (Di-syston), malathion, permethrin, pyrethrins, and horticultural oils. Spray as soon as eggs hatch on leaves in early spring. Some control is possible with a dormant spray applied just before growth in spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
What Is Azalea Leaf Gall?
First of all, let's consider what a "gall" is, in general, in the context of horticulture. A gall is a tumor-like eruption in plant tissue. A number of different plants are susceptible. The two types of plants upon which I most commonly find galls are:
Oak trees
Goldenrod
A gall represents the plant's reaction to damage caused by an invading agent. In the case of azalea galls, that agent is a fungus (see below).
But there are other agents that cause galls to develop on other plants. For example, one master gardener has written about the leaf galls caused by insects on various trees.
Regarding azalea leaf galls, specifically, you will notice two different phases (which may be present at the same time on the same plant, as in my picture):
In phase one, the swollen leaf tissue is waxy and most often pale green.
In phase two, it is a gray blob (and more recognizable to the beginner as some sort of fungus).
Even the flowers on azalea bushes can be infested with galls.
What to Do About Azalea Leaf Galls
First of all, take solace in the fact that their bark is worse than their bite. As alien-looking and repulsive as azalea leaf galls are, they are not considered overly serious. They are caused by the fungus, Exobasidium vaccinii. Pick off the leaves where the azalea leaf galls occur and dispose of them properly.
Do not put them in the compost bin, and do not leave them lying around on the ground, lest the fungus spread to other branches.
For preventive care, avoid letting the soil become compacted around your azaleas. You can accomplish this in a number of ways, including by:
Working ample amounts of humus into the soil
Applying landscape mulch around the plants
Furthermore, as is usually the case when dealing with fungus prevention, make it a point to apply water to your azalea shrubs down at ground level, rather than spraying from above. The latter practice gets the foliage all wet, which is an open invitation to fungi.
Having said all that, overall, I have found the amount of time I need to put into azalea care to be relatively minimal here in the Northeastern U.S. Care has consisted mainly of occasionally spraying neem oil on my Gibraltar azalea to kill aphids.
First of all, let's consider what a "gall" is, in general, in the context of horticulture. A gall is a tumor-like eruption in plant tissue. A number of different plants are susceptible. The two types of plants upon which I most commonly find galls are:
Oak trees
Goldenrod
A gall represents the plant's reaction to damage caused by an invading agent. In the case of azalea galls, that agent is a fungus (see below).
But there are other agents that cause galls to develop on other plants. For example, one master gardener has written about the leaf galls caused by insects on various trees.
Regarding azalea leaf galls, specifically, you will notice two different phases (which may be present at the same time on the same plant, as in my picture):
In phase one, the swollen leaf tissue is waxy and most often pale green.
In phase two, it is a gray blob (and more recognizable to the beginner as some sort of fungus).
Even the flowers on azalea bushes can be infested with galls.
What to Do About Azalea Leaf Galls
First of all, take solace in the fact that their bark is worse than their bite. As alien-looking and repulsive as azalea leaf galls are, they are not considered overly serious. They are caused by the fungus, Exobasidium vaccinii. Pick off the leaves where the azalea leaf galls occur and dispose of them properly.
Do not put them in the compost bin, and do not leave them lying around on the ground, lest the fungus spread to other branches.
For preventive care, avoid letting the soil become compacted around your azaleas. You can accomplish this in a number of ways, including by:
Working ample amounts of humus into the soil
Applying landscape mulch around the plants
Furthermore, as is usually the case when dealing with fungus prevention, make it a point to apply water to your azalea shrubs down at ground level, rather than spraying from above. The latter practice gets the foliage all wet, which is an open invitation to fungi.
Having said all that, overall, I have found the amount of time I need to put into azalea care to be relatively minimal here in the Northeastern U.S. Care has consisted mainly of occasionally spraying neem oil on my Gibraltar azalea to kill aphids.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
What we think of as the quintessential southern plant, the azalea, is actually mostly native to Asia. There are a few native to the United States, but the plants with huge flowers in pink, white, red, burgundy, and coral are imports. No matter! They’re a must-have in zones 6 to 9 for their amazing spring show. As shrubs go, azaleas are of the “little work, big reward” variety, so they’re definitely worth considering for your own garden and landscape.
Here’s how to grow azaleas.
How to Choose Azaleas
There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas
Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions.
How to Plant Azaleas
When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps:
1.Set plants where you plan to plant.
2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant.
3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.
4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots.
5.Water thoroughly.
6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas
Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas
A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape
If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom.
Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves.
How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth
Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
Here’s how to grow azaleas.
How to Choose Azaleas
There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas
Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions.
How to Plant Azaleas
When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps:
1.Set plants where you plan to plant.
2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant.
3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line.
4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots.
5.Water thoroughly.
6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas
Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas
A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape
If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom.
Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves.
How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth
Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年07月18日
Nombre científico o latino: Azalea japonica, Azalea indica, Azalea hybrida.
Nombre común o vulgar: Azalea.
Familia: Ericaeae.
Origen: China.
Existen cerca de 700 variedades de azalea en floristería.
Arbusto de follaje persistente, semipersistente o caduco muy ramificado de 1-1,5 metros de altura.
Crecimiento lento.
Hojas elípticas, vellosas en la cara inferior.
Flores: de 5-7 cm de diámetro solitarias o agrupadas en la extremidad de las ramificaciones, de color blanco, rosado, jaspeado o violáceo.
Florecen de modo natural al inicio de la primavera. Por medio de invernaderos pueden obtenerse flores durante el invierno.
Es considerada tanto planta de jardín como de interior.
La azalea no es propiamente una planta de interior, pero se puede mantener en la época de floración, con la precaución de sacarlas al exterior una vez finalizada la floración.
También son aptas para la práctica del bonsai, gracias a sus raíces pequeñas y ramillas firmes y leñosas.
Colocar en un lugar bien iluminado, pero no al sol.
En verano pueden sacarse las macetas de azaleas en lugares sombreados y lejos de los rayos directos del sol.
La temperatura ideal en invierno es de 13ºC. En un lugar con temperatura superior se secan hojas y flores de la azalea.
Resistencia al frío: resiste hasta -3°C.
Atmósfera húmeda.
En interiores debe evitarse el calor seco, pues de otro modo se marchitan en poco tiempo las flores y las hojas.
El pH de la tierra más apropiado es el que sea ligeramente ácido (5,5), que filtre bien y esté abonado con un compost que esté muy mojado.
En el hogar, lo ideal es regar casi a diario mientras está en floración.
Riegos abundantes, sobretodo en verano, ya que el calor le perjudica mucho.
Una buena solución es colocar la maceta sobre un plato con agua, que debe vaciar un par de días a la semana para que descanse.
En invierno riegue menos, pero también tiene que tener agua.
La cal en el agua, el gran enemigo de esta planta.
Requiere un agua pura, con un PH ácido, sino lo es, debe acidificarse, por ejemplo, con ácido cítrico.
En cuanto al abono, debemos emplear 3-5 gramos de fertilizante completo ( tipo 15-15-15) y 1 gramo de sulfato de amonio esparcido debajo de la capa o disuelto en el agua de riego al comenzar la primavera y a finales del verano. Esto asegura su desarrollo y floración.
En maceta, echar fertilizante líquido cada 15 días en la época de floración.
Aplicar quelatos de hierro despues de la floración.
Renovar el sustrato cada 2-3 años.
Poda:
Despunta todos los ramos del año a pulgares cortos de 2 ó 3 yemas laterales, es decir, cortándolos justo por encima de la segunda o tercera yema contada desde su inserción. De estas yemas surgirán brotes que al año siguiente darán en la punta una flor.
Cuantos más brotes más flores. Es decir, la planta ramifica y tiene una apariencia más compacta y da más flores.
Si es necesario, corrige la asimetría para mejorar la apariencia, por ejemplo, si está la copa descompensada. En Azalea algunas ramas se disparan de crecimiento después de la floración. Rebájalas antes del invierno.
Suprimir flores y frutos pasados: afean y consumen energías del arbusto.
Suprimir ramas cruzadas, mal orientadas o que enmarañan el arbusto.
Suprimir ramas muertas, secas, rotas o enfermas.
Suprimir ramas que sobresalen mucho del arbusto por su exceso de vigor (se le llaman chupones).
Suprimir rebrotes del pie del arbusto que sean débiles o mal situados y no nos interese que se desarrollen como rama del arbusto.
Suprimir rebrotes que hayan podido surgir desde la misma raíz (se les llaman sierpes).
Suprimir tocones secos (trozos de ramas que no tiene brotes y están secos).
Si la planta se ve demasiado compacta y las raíces crecen a través del macetero, necesita un cambio de maceta. Hacerlo en otoño, con una mezcla de tierra ácida (tierra de Pino) y arena gruesa.
Plagas: Azaleas y Rododendros son invadidos con frecuencia por los Trips, más en invernaderos.
Si hay poca humedad en el ambiente puede ser atacada por la arañita roja. En este caso, debemos rociarla con un acaricida y aumentar el grado de humedad.
En la época húmeda y también en verano pueden aparecer hongos y bacterias manchando las hojas.
Sus hojas pueden ser atacadas por un hongo muy peligroso. Para prevenir la podredumbre de éstas debemos pulverizarlas con un funguicida, al iniciarse la floración.
La multiplicación se hace por semillas, estacas, injerto, acodo.
Multiplicación de Azaleas de hoja caduca.
Semillas.
Las azaleas deciduas a veces se propagan por semilla, ya que este método resulta barato y las estacas enraizan con dificultad.
Los procedimientos de germinación son iguales que los descritos para las Azaleas de hoja perenne.
El crecimiento de las plántulas a veces es lento, pero poniendo a germinar las semillas al comienzo de la primavera y trasplantando temprano a un buen medio de desarrollo, es posible tener plantas de tamaño suficiente como para que formen yemas florales en su segundo año.
En un procedimiento diferente, que hará florecer más pronto las plantas obtenidas de semilla, éstas se siembran a fines del verano, de semilla cosechada a mitad del invierno anterior.
La siembra se hace en la superficie de turba, en cajas cubiertas con vidrio.
Una vez que han germinado, se prolonga la longitud del día proporcionado luz para lograr que las plantas sigan creciendo bien.
Las plántulas se trasplantan a mediados de otoño a cajas con 10% de aerna y 90% de turba, donde se les deja (en el invernadero) hasta mediados del verano.
Estacas.
Las azaleas deciduas (hoja caduca) son difíciles de enraizar por estacas, pero tomando material tierno y suculento al principio de la estación, sobre todo de plantas llevadas al invernadero y forzadas, se puede lograr que las estacas enraicen.
La época de tomar las estacas es de mucha importancia, siendo mucho mejor tomarlas en primavera que durante el verano.
El empleo de hormonas son de importancia para el enraizamiento.
Las estructuras o cajas cerradas con calor de fondo (18ºC) y un medio de enraizado de arena-turba-perlita proporciona buenas condiciones para ello.
No sólo es difícil hacer que enraicen estacas de azaleas deciduas, sino que también es un problema hacer que sobrevivan durante el invierno después de enraizadas.
Después del enraice las estacas deben colocarse en una estructura fría donde crezcan algo durante el verano.
Es mejor dejarlas en la estructura fría durante el invierno y trasplantarlas en la primavera siguiente.
También se tiene el problema de lograr la iniciación de las yemas en primavera en las estacas enraizadas.
Aumentar la longitud del día con luz artificial, después que las estacas han enraizado, desde fines del verano a mediados del invierno, es de mucha importancia para inducir la "apertura" de las yemas en primavera.
Injerto.
Este es el principal método de propagación para la mayoría de los híbridos Mollis.
Se usan como patrones plántulas de 2 a 3 años de Azalea pontica.
Este método tiene la desventaja de que el patrón ahija en forma inconveniente y también que las plantas presentan una falta general de vigor.
Las plántulas se ponen en maceta al principio de la primavera, haciendo el injerto al fin del verano.
Se puede usar un injerto enchapado de costado.
Durante la cicatrización de la unión del injerto, las plantas injertadas se colocan en el invernadero en cajas cerradas.
Es posible producir por injerto azaleas de tipo árbol, haciendo el injerto alto en estacas enraizadas de Azalea concinnum.
Acodado.
Las azaleas se acodan con facilidad.
Este método vale la pena emplearlo para tener un número limitado de plantas nuevas, en especial, de las Azaleas de hoja caduca, que son difíciles de propagar por estacas.
Se han usado satisfactoriamente los métodos de acodo simple, de montículo, de trinchera y aéreo.
Multiplicación de Azaleas de hoja perenne.
Las azaleas siempreverdes pueden propagarse por semilla, injerto y acodado, casi todas las plantas de vivero se inician por estacas.
Semillas.
Las cápsulas de semilla deben recogerse en el otoño después que se vuelven cafés y luego deben almacenarse a temperatura ordinaria en un recipiente que retenga las semillas cuando se abran las cápsulas.
Las semillas no tienen problemas de letargo pero perderán su viabilidad si se conservan por periodos largos en almacenamiento abierto.
Para un almacenamiento largo, es preferible guardarlas a baja temperatura en un recipiente sellado.
Las semillas se pueden hacer que germinen satisfactoriamente sobre una mezcla de suelo ácido como turba rubia sphagnum.
La siembra se hace generalmente en invernadero, de mediados de invierno hasta principios de la primavera.
Las temperaturas óptimas para germinación son de 21ºC durante el día y 13ºC durante la noche.
La germinación es rápida, ocurriendo por lo general en un mes.
En zonas que tienen aguas duras, las plántulas deberán regarse con agua destilada o con agua de lluvia, debido a que el agua alcalina las perjudica.
Estacas.
Las estacas de azalea no son difíciles de propagar; en 1 mes forman raíces.
Es mejor tomar las estacas a medio verano, después que el nuevo crecimiento se ha endurecido un poco, antes que la madera se haya vuelto roja o café.
Las hormonas son beneficiosas.
Las estacas de azalea prosperan bien bajo niebla si el medio de enraice está bien drenado.
Después de que las raíces se han formado bajo niebla, ésta se debe reducir y finalmente interrumpir.
Una vez enraizadas, las estacas pueden colocarse en macetas con partes iguales de tierra de hoja, arena y esfagno o turba rubia.
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