文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月07日
If you are unfamiliar with Tillandsia or Tillys, as they are affectionately called by air plant aficionados, this article is going to introduce you to one of the genera’s most popular species.
Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this.
The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name.
The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant.
Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option.
For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants.
Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa
Common Name Bulbous Air Plant
Plant Type perennial herbaceous
Mature Size 4–7 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade
Soil Type None
Soil pH None
Bloom Time Once per lifetime
Flower Color Violet
Hardiness Zones 9–11
Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care
Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium.
Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this.
The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name.
The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant.
Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option.
For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants.
Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa
Common Name Bulbous Air Plant
Plant Type perennial herbaceous
Mature Size 4–7 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade
Soil Type None
Soil pH None
Bloom Time Once per lifetime
Flower Color Violet
Hardiness Zones 9–11
Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care
Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium.
Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
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求助
hege
2017年10月11日
need some help identifying this one #Identification #help #air-plant #epiphytes
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Infinte Blossom：Purple heart
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dischidia is a genus of some 80 species of trailing, twining or scandent, succulent epiphytes found throughout the tropics of Asia (New Guinea, Moluccas, Philippines, India, tropical Australia, Hong Kong, Taiwan) through to the western Pacific.
Dischidia are plants that grow on supports such as tree trunks or branches. Their stems may produce roots along the nodes to absorb nutrients and water and provide additional support for the plant. Dischidia are some of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow! They tolerate wide variations in temperature and humidity. A very succulent species with grey/yellow/green colored foliage depending on light exposure. The foliage is also somewhat variable depending upon culture. A quick grower for drier areas of the terrarium and excellent in hanging baskets for home and garden!
Growing Conditions
Light: Grow Dischidia in medium to bright light to keep the plant happy.
Water: Water Dischidia when the soil surface starts to dry. The plant is fairly drought tolerant, so you don’t need to be alarmed if you forget to water it now and again.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 10 and 11.
Soil: Plant your Dischidia in a loose, well-draining soil designed for epiphytic plants; it is usually composed of coconut husk or shredded bark.
Grower’s Tips
Allow the soil to dry out before you water the plant. They are used to getting moisture only from dew and the air, and cannot tolerate boggy media. When the bark medium is dry to the touch, submerge the container in water until air bubbles are gone.
Dischidia also needs high humidity. Mist the plant every day or place the container on a saucer filled with pebbles and water. The water will evaporate and moisten the air while the pebbles will hold the sensitive roots out of the water.
Dischidia doesn’t really need fertilizer but you should change the planting media every year. If you wish, apply a diluted by half liquid plant food when you water beginning in spring and stopping by September.
Dischidia are plants that grow on supports such as tree trunks or branches. Their stems may produce roots along the nodes to absorb nutrients and water and provide additional support for the plant. Dischidia are some of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow! They tolerate wide variations in temperature and humidity. A very succulent species with grey/yellow/green colored foliage depending on light exposure. The foliage is also somewhat variable depending upon culture. A quick grower for drier areas of the terrarium and excellent in hanging baskets for home and garden!
Growing Conditions
Light: Grow Dischidia in medium to bright light to keep the plant happy.
Water: Water Dischidia when the soil surface starts to dry. The plant is fairly drought tolerant, so you don’t need to be alarmed if you forget to water it now and again.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 10 and 11.
Soil: Plant your Dischidia in a loose, well-draining soil designed for epiphytic plants; it is usually composed of coconut husk or shredded bark.
Grower’s Tips
Allow the soil to dry out before you water the plant. They are used to getting moisture only from dew and the air, and cannot tolerate boggy media. When the bark medium is dry to the touch, submerge the container in water until air bubbles are gone.
Dischidia also needs high humidity. Mist the plant every day or place the container on a saucer filled with pebbles and water. The water will evaporate and moisten the air while the pebbles will hold the sensitive roots out of the water.
Dischidia doesn’t really need fertilizer but you should change the planting media every year. If you wish, apply a diluted by half liquid plant food when you water beginning in spring and stopping by September.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is a popular winter-flowering houseplant that usually blooms over the holidays at the end of the calendar year. Varieties offer flowers in many different shades. Native to Brazil, Christmas cacti are epiphytes that grow in tree branches in rain forests. Since their stems hang down, they are perfect plants for hanging baskets. If a stem of your mature Christmas cactus is getting woody, it doesn’t mean that anything is amiss. That means that there is no reason to try fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. Read on for more information about woody Christmas cactus.
Woody Christmas Cactus Stems
A Christmas cactus that is cared for properly will last a long time, a quarter century or even longer. Ideal Christmas cactus growing conditions include light shade in summer and full sunlight during fall and winter. Too much sun in summer pales or yellows the plants. Christmas cactus plants generally grow large with age. As the plant gets older and bigger, and the base of the stems get woody. There is no need to think about fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. This is a perfectly natural condition and woody Christmas stems indicate a healthy plant.
Care of Old Christmas Cactus
If you buy or inherit an old Christmas cactus, it is likely a large plant. Proper care of old Christmas cactus includes cutting back overgrown branches and, sometimes, repotting the plant. One of the first steps in care of old Christmas cactus is a good trim of the branches. When the branches become too long and heavy, they are likely to break off, so it’s better if you trim instead. This is especially true if the leaves look shriveled, thin or limp at the ends. Trim the branches back by clipping at the segment joints. For overgrown cactus, cut each branch back by at least a third and up to three-quarters of its length. If a branch of the Christmas cactus is getting woody at the base, you can even cut it all the way back to the woody section. New green sections will grow from the wood.
Woody Christmas Cactus Stems
A Christmas cactus that is cared for properly will last a long time, a quarter century or even longer. Ideal Christmas cactus growing conditions include light shade in summer and full sunlight during fall and winter. Too much sun in summer pales or yellows the plants. Christmas cactus plants generally grow large with age. As the plant gets older and bigger, and the base of the stems get woody. There is no need to think about fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. This is a perfectly natural condition and woody Christmas stems indicate a healthy plant.
Care of Old Christmas Cactus
If you buy or inherit an old Christmas cactus, it is likely a large plant. Proper care of old Christmas cactus includes cutting back overgrown branches and, sometimes, repotting the plant. One of the first steps in care of old Christmas cactus is a good trim of the branches. When the branches become too long and heavy, they are likely to break off, so it’s better if you trim instead. This is especially true if the leaves look shriveled, thin or limp at the ends. Trim the branches back by clipping at the segment joints. For overgrown cactus, cut each branch back by at least a third and up to three-quarters of its length. If a branch of the Christmas cactus is getting woody at the base, you can even cut it all the way back to the woody section. New green sections will grow from the wood.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Both tropical and rainforests feature an incredible array of plants. Those that dangle from trees, rocks and vertical supports are called epiphytes. Tree epiphytes are called air plants because they have no firm grip in the earth. This fascinating collection of plants is also fun to grow indoors or out in the garden. Find answers on what is an epiphyte plant so you can introduce this unique form to your indoor or outdoor landscape.
What is an Epiphyte Plant?
The word epiphyte comes from the Greek “epi”, which means “upon” and “phyton”, which means plant. One of the amazing adaptations of epiphytes is their ability to attach to vertical surfaces and capture their water and much of their nutrient needs from sources other than soil. They may be found on branches, trunks and other structures. While epiphytes may live on other plants, they are not parasites. There are many types of epiphytes, with the majority being found in tropical and cloud forests. They get their moisture from the air but some even live in desert terrain and gather moisture from fog.
Types of Epiphytes
You might be surprised what plants have the adaptations of epiphytes. Tree epiphytes are usually tropical plants such as bromeliads, but they may also be cacti, orchids, aroids, lichens, moss and ferns. In tropical rain forests, giant philodendrons wrap themselves around trees but are still not tethered to the ground. The adaptations of epiphytes allow them to grow and flourish in areas where ground is difficult to reach or already populated by other plants. Epiphytic plants contribute to a rich ecosystem and provide canopy food and shelter. Not all plants in this group are tree epiphytes. Plants, such as mosses, are epiphytic and may be seen growing on rocks, the sides of houses and other inorganic surfaces.
Adaptations of Epiphytes
The flora in a rainforest is diverse and thickly populated. The competition for light, air, water, nutrients and space is fierce. Therefore, some plants have evolved to become epiphytes. This habit allows them to take advantage of high spaces and upper story light as well as misty, moisture-laden air. Leaf litter and other organic debris catches in tree crotches and other areas, making nutrient-rich nests for air plants.
Epiphyte Plant Care and Growth
Some plant centers sell epiphytic plants for home gardeners. They need to have a mount in some cases, such as Tillandsia. Affix the plant to a wooden board or cork piece. The plants gather much of their moisture from the air, so place them in moderate light in the bathroom where they can get water from shower steam. Another commonly grown epiphyte is the bromeliad. These plants are grown in well-drained soil. Water them in the cup at the base of the plant, which is designed to capture moisture out of misty air. For any epiphytic plant, try to mimic the conditions of its natural habitat. Orchids grow in shredded bark and need average light and moderate moisture. Take care not to overwater epiphytic plants since they supplement their moisture needs from the air. Humid conditions often provide all the moisture a plant will need. You can assist the plant by misting the air around it or putting the pot in a saucer of rocks filled with water.
What is an Epiphyte Plant?
The word epiphyte comes from the Greek “epi”, which means “upon” and “phyton”, which means plant. One of the amazing adaptations of epiphytes is their ability to attach to vertical surfaces and capture their water and much of their nutrient needs from sources other than soil. They may be found on branches, trunks and other structures. While epiphytes may live on other plants, they are not parasites. There are many types of epiphytes, with the majority being found in tropical and cloud forests. They get their moisture from the air but some even live in desert terrain and gather moisture from fog.
Types of Epiphytes
You might be surprised what plants have the adaptations of epiphytes. Tree epiphytes are usually tropical plants such as bromeliads, but they may also be cacti, orchids, aroids, lichens, moss and ferns. In tropical rain forests, giant philodendrons wrap themselves around trees but are still not tethered to the ground. The adaptations of epiphytes allow them to grow and flourish in areas where ground is difficult to reach or already populated by other plants. Epiphytic plants contribute to a rich ecosystem and provide canopy food and shelter. Not all plants in this group are tree epiphytes. Plants, such as mosses, are epiphytic and may be seen growing on rocks, the sides of houses and other inorganic surfaces.
Adaptations of Epiphytes
The flora in a rainforest is diverse and thickly populated. The competition for light, air, water, nutrients and space is fierce. Therefore, some plants have evolved to become epiphytes. This habit allows them to take advantage of high spaces and upper story light as well as misty, moisture-laden air. Leaf litter and other organic debris catches in tree crotches and other areas, making nutrient-rich nests for air plants.
Epiphyte Plant Care and Growth
Some plant centers sell epiphytic plants for home gardeners. They need to have a mount in some cases, such as Tillandsia. Affix the plant to a wooden board or cork piece. The plants gather much of their moisture from the air, so place them in moderate light in the bathroom where they can get water from shower steam. Another commonly grown epiphyte is the bromeliad. These plants are grown in well-drained soil. Water them in the cup at the base of the plant, which is designed to capture moisture out of misty air. For any epiphytic plant, try to mimic the conditions of its natural habitat. Orchids grow in shredded bark and need average light and moderate moisture. Take care not to overwater epiphytic plants since they supplement their moisture needs from the air. Humid conditions often provide all the moisture a plant will need. You can assist the plant by misting the air around it or putting the pot in a saucer of rocks filled with water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Epiphytic plants are those that grow on vertical surfaces such as another plant, a rock, or any other structure the epiphyte can attach to. Epiphytes are not parasitic but do use other plants as support. Epiphytes for the home interior are mounted, generally on bark, wood or cork. It’s creative and fun to learn how to mount epiphytic plants. These varieties add a unique, tropical note to the home and epiphyte plant care is easy and carefree.
Epiphyte Mounting Tips
There are 22,000 species of epiphytes around the world. Many of these are becoming common houseplants due to their unique beauty but also their ease of care. Mounting these plants is the best way to view them, provides the plant the aerial situation it requires and assists in epiphyte plant care. Choose any mount that is porous and is free of chemicals and salts. Now it is time to take a few epiphyte mounting tips and get creative. The pros choose their mounting medium carefully. This is especially true of orchid collectors. Orchids tend to grow on specific species of tree and it is important to try to match that wood whenever possible. Usually, this is not the case, however, so a benign substitute is chosen. Your choice of mounting medium will depend upon the size of your epiphyte, the weight of the medium and durability. For the most part, driftwood, cork and large pieces of hardwood or bark will provide adequate homes for the plants. Your mounting material is your next choice. Use pantyhose, fishing line, wire, twine or even hot glue.
How to Mount Epiphytic Plants
Epiphyte growing and mounting can become addictive. The bromeliads, orchids, tillandsia, staghorn fern and other varieties of epiphyte will produce a unique collection. Any of the plants that have minimal roots or aerial roots are good candidates for mounting. The best medium for any type of plant will vary according to its native region; however, an overall good medium to cradle root systems is sphagnum moss. Moisten the moss and pack it around the roots. You can use a bit of coconut coir around that if you wish and then bind the whole mass to the plant with twine.
Epiphyte Growing and Mounting
You should have all the parts that you need together now. Take your plant and wrap the roots in the moistened sphagnum moss. Bind this to the base of the plant and then take your mounting piece and attach the base of the plant. Use glue, twine or whatever method you choose. Take care to hide any string in the foliage of the plant for best appearance. Epiphytes need more moisture than plants in pots. Provide water two to four times a week, depending upon how hot and dry your home is and what time of year. In summer, occasionally submerge the plant in water for an hour if it is not getting enough moisture. If your humidity is low, spray them with water occasionally. Place the plant where it gets bright but indirect light. Fertilize in spring with a dilution of a 10-5-5 that is low in copper.
Epiphyte Mounting Tips
There are 22,000 species of epiphytes around the world. Many of these are becoming common houseplants due to their unique beauty but also their ease of care. Mounting these plants is the best way to view them, provides the plant the aerial situation it requires and assists in epiphyte plant care. Choose any mount that is porous and is free of chemicals and salts. Now it is time to take a few epiphyte mounting tips and get creative. The pros choose their mounting medium carefully. This is especially true of orchid collectors. Orchids tend to grow on specific species of tree and it is important to try to match that wood whenever possible. Usually, this is not the case, however, so a benign substitute is chosen. Your choice of mounting medium will depend upon the size of your epiphyte, the weight of the medium and durability. For the most part, driftwood, cork and large pieces of hardwood or bark will provide adequate homes for the plants. Your mounting material is your next choice. Use pantyhose, fishing line, wire, twine or even hot glue.
How to Mount Epiphytic Plants
Epiphyte growing and mounting can become addictive. The bromeliads, orchids, tillandsia, staghorn fern and other varieties of epiphyte will produce a unique collection. Any of the plants that have minimal roots or aerial roots are good candidates for mounting. The best medium for any type of plant will vary according to its native region; however, an overall good medium to cradle root systems is sphagnum moss. Moisten the moss and pack it around the roots. You can use a bit of coconut coir around that if you wish and then bind the whole mass to the plant with twine.
Epiphyte Growing and Mounting
You should have all the parts that you need together now. Take your plant and wrap the roots in the moistened sphagnum moss. Bind this to the base of the plant and then take your mounting piece and attach the base of the plant. Use glue, twine or whatever method you choose. Take care to hide any string in the foliage of the plant for best appearance. Epiphytes need more moisture than plants in pots. Provide water two to four times a week, depending upon how hot and dry your home is and what time of year. In summer, occasionally submerge the plant in water for an hour if it is not getting enough moisture. If your humidity is low, spray them with water occasionally. Place the plant where it gets bright but indirect light. Fertilize in spring with a dilution of a 10-5-5 that is low in copper.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Epiphytes are one of nature’s most adaptive plants. These wonderful specimens can thrive without deep soil by harvesting much of their water and nutrient needs from the air. Some epiphytes reproduce through pups and others from seed or vegetative action. The easiest epiphyte plant propagation is through pups, but not all varieties produce these. Seed can take years to develop recognizable plants, while cuttings on epiphytic cacti seem the best choice. Propagating epiphytic plants starts with recognizing which type of plant you are growing and choosing the method best for that species.
Propagating Epiphytic Plants
There are many types of epiphytic plants. Bromeliads are one of the most common houseplants but you may also come upon epiphytic cacti, Tillandsia and other species. Each has a different method of reproduction. Knowing how to propagate epiphytic plants will help increase your collection and sustain any favorite specimens. Epiphyte plant propagation is not particularly difficult but there are a few rules to observe and patience is a virtue.
Epiphytic Seed Propagation
Propagation by seed is probably the most universally recognized method for any plant. Epiphytes can be grown from seed if it can be acquired or gather seed from your own plants. Use a well-draining substrate, such as half sand and half peat or even pure vermiculite. Moisten the substrate evenly and sow seeds almost at the surface of the soil and barely covered with sand. Most epiphytes hail from heavy, thick jungles and prefer low light conditions which means they seed in such lighting. Keep your container in a low light area of the home where temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). A heat mat will greatly improve the chances of germination. Keep the substrate lightly moist but not soggy. The time of germination will vary upon species. You will not need to start transplanting epiphytes grown from seed for at least two years; yes, they grow that slowly.
How to Propagate Epiphytic Plants with Cuttings
Probably the best species for cuttings are cacti. Epiphytic cacti cuttings produce an exact clone of the parent plant and will flower and fruit much more quickly than plants sown with seed. This method of epiphyte plant propagation can yield roots in just weeks and blooms within the year. Use clean, sterile cutting implements to avoid transfer of disease. Cuttings can be taken any time of the year but tend to work best if taken in spring. If the plant is branching and has segmented stems, take the cutting at the joint. If the plant has pads, either cut at the base of the pad or you can take the upper segment of the pad. Allow cuttings to callus for a week before planting in sterile sand that has been moistened. If the cactus is a sun seeker, place container in a bright location and if the parent was a low light plant, site the cutting in less light. Keep the medium moderately moist and temperatures high, up to 75 degrees F. (24 C.) provides optimum germination conditions.
Propagating Pups
No, we’re not talking about canines, but the offsets on many epiphytes. Bromeliads are a classic example of a plant that produces pups. Over the years, a single plant can become a crowded group of small and large plants all clustered together. These are pups and are easy to remove from the parent and plant singly. Transplanting epiphytes in this manner results in faster mature plants and is so easy even a novice gardener can accomplish the task successfully. Pups should be 1/3 as tall as the parent. You may either pull the pup away from the mother or use a sharp knife to cut it away. Ensure part of the mother’s root system is attached. Allow the broken or cut end to callus for up to a week. Prepare moist, sterile soil and insert the pup just deep enough so it stands upright. Keep the container in moderate light where temperatures are warm and in a few weeks it will start to root. Care of pups is the same as adult plants.
Propagating Epiphytic Plants
There are many types of epiphytic plants. Bromeliads are one of the most common houseplants but you may also come upon epiphytic cacti, Tillandsia and other species. Each has a different method of reproduction. Knowing how to propagate epiphytic plants will help increase your collection and sustain any favorite specimens. Epiphyte plant propagation is not particularly difficult but there are a few rules to observe and patience is a virtue.
Epiphytic Seed Propagation
Propagation by seed is probably the most universally recognized method for any plant. Epiphytes can be grown from seed if it can be acquired or gather seed from your own plants. Use a well-draining substrate, such as half sand and half peat or even pure vermiculite. Moisten the substrate evenly and sow seeds almost at the surface of the soil and barely covered with sand. Most epiphytes hail from heavy, thick jungles and prefer low light conditions which means they seed in such lighting. Keep your container in a low light area of the home where temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). A heat mat will greatly improve the chances of germination. Keep the substrate lightly moist but not soggy. The time of germination will vary upon species. You will not need to start transplanting epiphytes grown from seed for at least two years; yes, they grow that slowly.
How to Propagate Epiphytic Plants with Cuttings
Probably the best species for cuttings are cacti. Epiphytic cacti cuttings produce an exact clone of the parent plant and will flower and fruit much more quickly than plants sown with seed. This method of epiphyte plant propagation can yield roots in just weeks and blooms within the year. Use clean, sterile cutting implements to avoid transfer of disease. Cuttings can be taken any time of the year but tend to work best if taken in spring. If the plant is branching and has segmented stems, take the cutting at the joint. If the plant has pads, either cut at the base of the pad or you can take the upper segment of the pad. Allow cuttings to callus for a week before planting in sterile sand that has been moistened. If the cactus is a sun seeker, place container in a bright location and if the parent was a low light plant, site the cutting in less light. Keep the medium moderately moist and temperatures high, up to 75 degrees F. (24 C.) provides optimum germination conditions.
Propagating Pups
No, we’re not talking about canines, but the offsets on many epiphytes. Bromeliads are a classic example of a plant that produces pups. Over the years, a single plant can become a crowded group of small and large plants all clustered together. These are pups and are easy to remove from the parent and plant singly. Transplanting epiphytes in this manner results in faster mature plants and is so easy even a novice gardener can accomplish the task successfully. Pups should be 1/3 as tall as the parent. You may either pull the pup away from the mother or use a sharp knife to cut it away. Ensure part of the mother’s root system is attached. Allow the broken or cut end to callus for up to a week. Prepare moist, sterile soil and insert the pup just deep enough so it stands upright. Keep the container in moderate light where temperatures are warm and in a few weeks it will start to root. Care of pups is the same as adult plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
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