文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. They sense the shorter days of winter and provide your garden with clustered red, yellow, orange, pink, purple, white and variant of these blooms in both winter and spring. Although these succulents can be propagated by seed in both indoor containers and outdoor gardens, growing new Kalanchoe plants from leaves is much simpler and less time-consuming. The ability of a new Kalanchoe to grow from a leaf allows the plant to reproduce successfully without developing energy-consuming seed pods, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The genus Kalanchoe includes more than 100 plants, but only a few are regularly seen in cultivation. Kalanchoes are native to arid areas, and they are popular succulents. Modern hybrids are valued for their interesting leaf-forms or for their flowers.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
A small- to medium-sized slow-growing Mexican member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). Pachyphytum leaves are plump and fleshy, and range in color from green to lovely orange and even purple. The leaves form a loose rosette. They may be grape-shaped or tubular, and may have a powdery coating called farina. Pachyphytum forms small, unimpressive bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer which are usually greenish-white and deep red, and which grow on long spikey inflorescences. Pachyphytum rosettes will not die after flowering. The genus name Pachyphytum comes from the Greek for “thick leaves”. It grows in both shrub-forming and stemless rosettes and eventually forms clumps.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Rosularia is a rosette forming member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). They closely resemble other rosette forming Crassulaceae such as Sempervivum and Echeveria, although they are more closely related to the genus Sedum.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common.
Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die.
Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C).
Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs.
Pests and Problems
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common.
Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die.
Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C).
Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs.
Pests and Problems
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa), also known as Pussy Ears is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Panda Plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the decor.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
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成长记
meriunkat
2017年09月17日
I new added a "Kalanchoe Tomentosa "Panda plant" babies" in my "garden"
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease of indoor plants. African violets, begonias, ivy, jade, kalanchoe, poinsettia and rosemary are susceptible to powdery mildew. It thrives best in cool, damp conditions.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Powdery mildew starts as a dusty, white to gray, thread-like coating over leaf surfaces, stems, buds or flowers. It can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves but this will not eliminate the fungus.
Life Cycle
Powdery mildew is caused by many species of fungi each responsible for causing the disease on a limited number of plant species. That is, the species of fungi that causes powdery mildew on African violets is not the same species that causes powder mildew on rosemary. Therefore, powdery mildew on one plant may not spread to a dissimilar plant. Even given this, both plants may develop powdery mildew from different species of fungi if favorable conditions exist for disease development. Several species of powdery mildew can be common both indoors and out.
Powdery mildew starts as discrete, circular powdery white spots on leaves. It may also be on other above ground plant parts. The fungal mycelium grows and in time can cover large parts of the plant giving them a dusty, powdery, or silvery appearance. Powdery spores are produced that spread to other parts of the plant or related plants. The disease can develop and spread anytime the conditions for growth are favorable. Photosynthesis is impaired and growth may be stunted. Buds fail to mature. The plant declines in growth and vigor and eventually becomes unsightly.
Integrated Pest Management
1. Don’t ask for a problem. Choose healthy plants and purchase mildew resistant cultivars if possible.
2. Sanitation. At the first sign of infection, isolate the plant. Remove and dispose of all infected plant parts. Discard severely infected plants.
3. Evaluate and modify the growth environment. Keep plants in a well-ventilated area and do not overcrowd. Improve air circulation around plants. Avoid wetting leaves when watering, do not water from above.
4. Don’t over fertilize. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers since powdery mildew attacks new succulent growth.
5. Treat with baking soda. Some gardeners recommend applying a baking soda solution to prevent the fungi from establishing. This changes the pH of the leaf surface. Test on a few leaves first as this may damage some plants. Some may feel this treatment may look as unsightly as the mildew disease itself.
6. Use a commercial fungicide. Valuable plants or crops may require the application of an appropriate fungicide labeled for indoor use, preferably one that is systemic. Be sure to read the label and follow directions.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Powdery mildew starts as a dusty, white to gray, thread-like coating over leaf surfaces, stems, buds or flowers. It can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves but this will not eliminate the fungus.
Life Cycle
Powdery mildew is caused by many species of fungi each responsible for causing the disease on a limited number of plant species. That is, the species of fungi that causes powdery mildew on African violets is not the same species that causes powder mildew on rosemary. Therefore, powdery mildew on one plant may not spread to a dissimilar plant. Even given this, both plants may develop powdery mildew from different species of fungi if favorable conditions exist for disease development. Several species of powdery mildew can be common both indoors and out.
Powdery mildew starts as discrete, circular powdery white spots on leaves. It may also be on other above ground plant parts. The fungal mycelium grows and in time can cover large parts of the plant giving them a dusty, powdery, or silvery appearance. Powdery spores are produced that spread to other parts of the plant or related plants. The disease can develop and spread anytime the conditions for growth are favorable. Photosynthesis is impaired and growth may be stunted. Buds fail to mature. The plant declines in growth and vigor and eventually becomes unsightly.
Integrated Pest Management
1. Don’t ask for a problem. Choose healthy plants and purchase mildew resistant cultivars if possible.
2. Sanitation. At the first sign of infection, isolate the plant. Remove and dispose of all infected plant parts. Discard severely infected plants.
3. Evaluate and modify the growth environment. Keep plants in a well-ventilated area and do not overcrowd. Improve air circulation around plants. Avoid wetting leaves when watering, do not water from above.
4. Don’t over fertilize. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers since powdery mildew attacks new succulent growth.
5. Treat with baking soda. Some gardeners recommend applying a baking soda solution to prevent the fungi from establishing. This changes the pH of the leaf surface. Test on a few leaves first as this may damage some plants. Some may feel this treatment may look as unsightly as the mildew disease itself.
6. Use a commercial fungicide. Valuable plants or crops may require the application of an appropriate fungicide labeled for indoor use, preferably one that is systemic. Be sure to read the label and follow directions.
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成长记
lensucc
2017年09月16日
I new added a "Kalanchoe Flourdust" in my "garden"
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meriunkat：I've never done this sort of propagating before
meriunkat：oh wow you do have a different plant😅 my mistake
I do hope to see how your propagating turns out
meriunkat：@lensucc oh I know this plant is known for growing Variegated leaves that are yellow, white, and pink and sometimes even purple 😆 mine looks like yours but it's growing some yellow/pink leaves now, I can't wait 😁
lensucc：@meriunkat ohhhh. I just searched it and it doesnt look like its mother plant :O
meriunkat：scientific name is Kalanchoe Glaucescens, I own this plant as well😁 it's a beautiful plant 😆
