文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A mature Echeveria plant, with waxy leaves resembling a rose, is a beautiful sight to behold. Although they originate from Mexico and Central America, these drought-tolerant plants can be grown from seed in many parts of the world. By following the process outlined below, advanced and beginner gardening enthusiasts can grow their own Echeveria plants from seed.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
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成长记
greenwhalepinkshark
2017年09月22日
I new added a "Echeveria subsessilis variegata" in my "garden"
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy Aloe and Echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sempervivum, also known as “Houseleeks” or “Hen and Chick” plants, are among the most popular succulents. They are exceptionally hardy plants and seem to thrive in cold and hot, low light or strong light. They are closely related to Echeveria, Kalanchoe and Crassula, which all belong to the Crassulaceae family. There is a very wide variety of Sempervivum, and they are easily pressed into service as beautiful mixed-dish gardens.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, some varieties can withstand temperatures down to freezing.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Sempervivum earned their popular name “Hen and Chicks” from their growth habit. The mother plant, or hen, sends off numerous offsets, which will cluster around her base like chicks. These offsets can be easily repotted, or the plants can be left to form a clumping mat.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Sempervivum are not difficult to grow, provided they are not waterlogged and killed from excess watering. They can be easily grown outdoors and in containers, and they earned the name “Houseleeks” from their tendency to root on the roofs of houses. After the mother plant flowers, it will naturally die, but by this time, the plant has likely produced many offsets that will continue to grow. These are excellent for cold windows.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, some varieties can withstand temperatures down to freezing.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Sempervivum earned their popular name “Hen and Chicks” from their growth habit. The mother plant, or hen, sends off numerous offsets, which will cluster around her base like chicks. These offsets can be easily repotted, or the plants can be left to form a clumping mat.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Sempervivum are not difficult to grow, provided they are not waterlogged and killed from excess watering. They can be easily grown outdoors and in containers, and they earned the name “Houseleeks” from their tendency to root on the roofs of houses. After the mother plant flowers, it will naturally die, but by this time, the plant has likely produced many offsets that will continue to grow. These are excellent for cold windows.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Orostachys is an Asian genus of monocarpic, rosette-forming succulents, similar in appearance to Echeveria, and Sempervivum, but it looks most similar to Aeonium. One of the major visible differences between Aeonium and Orostachys is that each leaf is tipped with a spine. It is a fast-growing succulent, with grey or green leaves forming small, globular rosettes. The small bell-shaped flowers are usually white or pink and grow densely packed on a conical inflorescense (which are really quite amazing to see, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall). Natively, the plant lives in Korea, China, Mongolia, and Northern Japan.
Some species show amazing symmetry of the rosette. Orostachys spinosa is of note, as the leaf pattern follows a Fibonacci sequence.
Growing Conditions
As with most similar genera of Crassulaceae, Orostachys survive in fairly poor soil, so long as it is well draining. This genera is very cold-hardy and can survive temperatures to -30° F (-34° C). Allow soil to dry to the touch between waterings, and avoid getting water on the rosettes. Orostachys requires some bright light. This plant doesn’t tolerate high humidity well. Orostachys grows actively in spring and summer.
Propagation
Orostachys self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. Propagation is primarily through offset separation.
To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
General Care
Pruning: In general, this is a good plant to forget about. Leave it in a bright sunny location and water very sparingly. Water in the morning so as to prevent water from remaining on the leaves during the night. Remove any dead leaves from rosettes, as dead leaves invite rot and insects. When a rosette has flowered, it will die shortly.
Problems: In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Orostachys may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in winter this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
Some species show amazing symmetry of the rosette. Orostachys spinosa is of note, as the leaf pattern follows a Fibonacci sequence.
Growing Conditions
As with most similar genera of Crassulaceae, Orostachys survive in fairly poor soil, so long as it is well draining. This genera is very cold-hardy and can survive temperatures to -30° F (-34° C). Allow soil to dry to the touch between waterings, and avoid getting water on the rosettes. Orostachys requires some bright light. This plant doesn’t tolerate high humidity well. Orostachys grows actively in spring and summer.
Propagation
Orostachys self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. Propagation is primarily through offset separation.
To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
General Care
Pruning: In general, this is a good plant to forget about. Leave it in a bright sunny location and water very sparingly. Water in the morning so as to prevent water from remaining on the leaves during the night. Remove any dead leaves from rosettes, as dead leaves invite rot and insects. When a rosette has flowered, it will die shortly.
Problems: In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Orostachys may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in winter this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
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0
成长记
Ueca
2017年09月20日
A little glass I have adorned with various revived garden scraps. In there are Sempervivum tectorum, Sedum sexangulare, a type of Crassula, and an (I suspect) Echeveria runyonii. The glass is just over 7 cm (under 3 inches) in diameter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Rosularia is a rosette forming member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). They closely resemble other rosette forming Crassulaceae such as Sempervivum and Echeveria, although they are more closely related to the genus Sedum.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common.
Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die.
Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C).
Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs.
Pests and Problems
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common.
Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die.
Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C).
Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs.
Pests and Problems
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
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