文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
Creeping bellflower is a delicate, hardy, disease-resistant perennial that grows readily in a variety of conditions. Even though there are numerous bellflower species, the creeping variety is relatively easy to identify. The leaves found at the base of the plant are heart-shaped and become narrower and more lance-like as they move upwards. The drooping, bell-shaped purple flowers appear during the summer, growing up one side of the stem. You may think that a beautiful, easy-to-grow plant would make for a perfect garden bloom, but you'd be wrong—in fact, creeping bellflower is considered extremely invasive.
If you introduce this aggressive species to your garden, you must do so carefully and strategically—otherwise, it won't be long before it chokes out your other flowers and proves almost impossible to eradicate. It has a fast-spreading and deep root system of long tubers that can become many gardeners' nemesis if left untamed. Now that the extent of its aggressive nature has been discovered, it's classed as an invasive species across much of the country.
Brought to North America from its native Europe, creeping bellflower was initially a popular plant thanks to its ability to attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. Creeping bellflower produces an abundance of seeds in the summer (upwards of 15,000 per plant), which are then easily distributed by insects and gentle breezes. The plant will grow rapidly and can take over your landscape in as little as a season if left to its own devices. Ultimately, though it is beautiful, it's not recommended that you plant creeping bellflower in your garden or landscape.
Botanical Name Campanula rapunculoides
Common Name Creeping bellflower, rampion bellflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2–4 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time July to September
Flower Color Lavender, purple
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Creeping Bellflower Care
Creeping bellflower grows pretty much anywhere. It can thrive in various light conditions and handles a variety of different soil types easily—even those that have poor drainage or are infertile. It's found in most parts of North America, other than the hottest southeastern states. That being said, moist and shady locations are where the plant tends to be at its most invasive.
Light
Creeping bellflower will be most pervasive (and reseeds itself most aggressively) when growing in full sunlight. However, the plant can sustain just fine in partial shade and full shade locations as well.
Soil
While it can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, creeping bellflower will grow most prolifically in a soil blend that is moist but well-draining. Additionally, it can adapt to a wide range of neutral to acidic pH levels.
Water
Creeping bellflower plants prefer consistent water, and do best with about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or manual watering methods. Once established, they are mildly drought-tolerant, though a lack of water will impact their blooming.
Temperature and Humidity
Though creeping bellflower is well-adapted to a variety of temperature and humidity environments, it spreads and grows most rapidly in the cooler weather of early spring or late fall. Additionally, the plants are cold-hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, though they will cease to bloom at extremely cold temperatures.
Fertilizer
Creeping bellflower spreads readily and aggressively on its own, and should not be given fertilizer.
How to Remove Creeping Bellflower
Be prepared for a long project when attempting to eradicate the tenacious creeping bellflower from your landscape. Rigorous hand pulling, mowing, and deadheading won't eradicate the species, but it'll prevent reseeding and can help control spread somewhat. It can take several years of hard work to eliminate this species, and some horticulturists choose to focus on managing it instead.
Removing The Roots
Part of the problem with removing creeping bellflower is that its white, fleshy underground rhizomes and deep taproots can't simply be pulled out. Doing so carelessly will inevitably leave pieces still in the soil, and even the smallest rhizomatous section can result in regrowth.
For the best success, digging out the roots is required. You'll need to dig at least 6 to 9 inches into the soil on all sides of the plant. Slowly and methodically sift out any root sections you find, and all parts of the plant should be put into sealed general waste bags. If added to compost heaps or bins, they could grow back once the compost is applied.
Creeping bellflower roots can also become entangled with the roots of other nearby plants. You may have to sacrifice other species while you're working to rid your garden of this weed. If you have a prized plant you want to try saving, it's best to remove it and carefully try to separate it from the roots of the bellflower. The roots should then be washed off, and the plant should be kept in a pot to make sure that no creeping bellflower growth reappears.
Smothering Methods
Another method for removing creeping bellflower is to cover the plants to deprive them of light. However, this is only practical if the flowers are growing in small patches. To do so, you can use newspapers, cardboard, or plastic, which is then covered over with soil or heavy mulch. Though it may seem easier, this method isn't always foolproof—sometimes, creeping bellflower's roots will lie in a dormant state (tricking you into thinking it's been eradicated) and new growth could appear the following season.
Chemical Removal
Chemically removing your creeping bellflower is best kept as a last resort. Not only can herbicides pose a risk to the environment, humans, and animals alike, but they don't always have the best success rate. However, if you find the plant has invaded your patio. driveway cracks, or paved areas in your garden, it could be worth adopting this method as it won't be possible to dig up the roots. Likewise, if the plants have spread to your lawn, you could apply a herbicide containing the active ingredient triclopyr as this won't damage the grass.
Widely available broadleaf herbicides and defoliants such as 2,4-D have been proven ineffective at dealing with creeping bellflower. Limited success has been shown, however, with those that contain the active ingredient glyphosate, likeRoundup. Applying the treatment directly with a sponge can prevent it from coming into contact with other nearby broadleaf species. Best success, however, will occur if it's sprayed generously on the plant.
Treatments should be applied in late spring or early fall, while temperatures are between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You also want to ensure there isn't any rain in the forecast for at least a couple of days after the treatment, too. Weekly reapplications for several weeks are often recommended.
If you introduce this aggressive species to your garden, you must do so carefully and strategically—otherwise, it won't be long before it chokes out your other flowers and proves almost impossible to eradicate. It has a fast-spreading and deep root system of long tubers that can become many gardeners' nemesis if left untamed. Now that the extent of its aggressive nature has been discovered, it's classed as an invasive species across much of the country.
Brought to North America from its native Europe, creeping bellflower was initially a popular plant thanks to its ability to attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. Creeping bellflower produces an abundance of seeds in the summer (upwards of 15,000 per plant), which are then easily distributed by insects and gentle breezes. The plant will grow rapidly and can take over your landscape in as little as a season if left to its own devices. Ultimately, though it is beautiful, it's not recommended that you plant creeping bellflower in your garden or landscape.
Botanical Name Campanula rapunculoides
Common Name Creeping bellflower, rampion bellflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2–4 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time July to September
Flower Color Lavender, purple
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Creeping Bellflower Care
Creeping bellflower grows pretty much anywhere. It can thrive in various light conditions and handles a variety of different soil types easily—even those that have poor drainage or are infertile. It's found in most parts of North America, other than the hottest southeastern states. That being said, moist and shady locations are where the plant tends to be at its most invasive.
Light
Creeping bellflower will be most pervasive (and reseeds itself most aggressively) when growing in full sunlight. However, the plant can sustain just fine in partial shade and full shade locations as well.
Soil
While it can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, creeping bellflower will grow most prolifically in a soil blend that is moist but well-draining. Additionally, it can adapt to a wide range of neutral to acidic pH levels.
Water
Creeping bellflower plants prefer consistent water, and do best with about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or manual watering methods. Once established, they are mildly drought-tolerant, though a lack of water will impact their blooming.
Temperature and Humidity
Though creeping bellflower is well-adapted to a variety of temperature and humidity environments, it spreads and grows most rapidly in the cooler weather of early spring or late fall. Additionally, the plants are cold-hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, though they will cease to bloom at extremely cold temperatures.
Fertilizer
Creeping bellflower spreads readily and aggressively on its own, and should not be given fertilizer.
How to Remove Creeping Bellflower
Be prepared for a long project when attempting to eradicate the tenacious creeping bellflower from your landscape. Rigorous hand pulling, mowing, and deadheading won't eradicate the species, but it'll prevent reseeding and can help control spread somewhat. It can take several years of hard work to eliminate this species, and some horticulturists choose to focus on managing it instead.
Removing The Roots
Part of the problem with removing creeping bellflower is that its white, fleshy underground rhizomes and deep taproots can't simply be pulled out. Doing so carelessly will inevitably leave pieces still in the soil, and even the smallest rhizomatous section can result in regrowth.
For the best success, digging out the roots is required. You'll need to dig at least 6 to 9 inches into the soil on all sides of the plant. Slowly and methodically sift out any root sections you find, and all parts of the plant should be put into sealed general waste bags. If added to compost heaps or bins, they could grow back once the compost is applied.
Creeping bellflower roots can also become entangled with the roots of other nearby plants. You may have to sacrifice other species while you're working to rid your garden of this weed. If you have a prized plant you want to try saving, it's best to remove it and carefully try to separate it from the roots of the bellflower. The roots should then be washed off, and the plant should be kept in a pot to make sure that no creeping bellflower growth reappears.
Smothering Methods
Another method for removing creeping bellflower is to cover the plants to deprive them of light. However, this is only practical if the flowers are growing in small patches. To do so, you can use newspapers, cardboard, or plastic, which is then covered over with soil or heavy mulch. Though it may seem easier, this method isn't always foolproof—sometimes, creeping bellflower's roots will lie in a dormant state (tricking you into thinking it's been eradicated) and new growth could appear the following season.
Chemical Removal
Chemically removing your creeping bellflower is best kept as a last resort. Not only can herbicides pose a risk to the environment, humans, and animals alike, but they don't always have the best success rate. However, if you find the plant has invaded your patio. driveway cracks, or paved areas in your garden, it could be worth adopting this method as it won't be possible to dig up the roots. Likewise, if the plants have spread to your lawn, you could apply a herbicide containing the active ingredient triclopyr as this won't damage the grass.
Widely available broadleaf herbicides and defoliants such as 2,4-D have been proven ineffective at dealing with creeping bellflower. Limited success has been shown, however, with those that contain the active ingredient glyphosate, likeRoundup. Applying the treatment directly with a sponge can prevent it from coming into contact with other nearby broadleaf species. Best success, however, will occur if it's sprayed generously on the plant.
Treatments should be applied in late spring or early fall, while temperatures are between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You also want to ensure there isn't any rain in the forecast for at least a couple of days after the treatment, too. Weekly reapplications for several weeks are often recommended.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月07日
The Celebrity tomato is a hybrid cultivar prized for its strong plants, disease and pest resistance, and robust production of fruit. If you've ever struggled growing garden or patio tomatoes that become vulnerable to pests or just don't produce very many tomatoes, the Celebrity may be a game changer for you. These tomatoes usually weigh in at half a pound each or more, and measure four inches across: the perfect size for a slicer! Its meaty texture and smooth globe shape make it a perfect sandwich tomato, but it can also be used in salads or in sauces, or chopped and simmered with fresh herbs to serve over pasta.
Among tomato-growing aficionados, this variety is known as a "semi determinate" plant, because after reaching its full height of 3-4 feet, it continues to produce fruit until frost (unlike determinate tomatoes that have a "bush" habit and finite fruiting period/single crop, or indeterminate tomato plants that continue to sprawl and produce fruit throughout their growth season (like cherry tomatoes)
Because they produce such an abundance of large fruits, these plants definitely need cages or stakes to keep them upright. Even with cages, you may find you want to use some plant ties for extra support, especially as fruits grow larger. If the vines seem too heavy with fruit you can always pluck some tomatoes just before they fully ripen, and finish ripening them in a sunny windowsill (indoors, or squirrels might start snacking on them).
Scientific Name Solanum lycopersicum, cultivar 'Celebrity'
Common Name Celebrity tomato
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 3 to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.2 to 6.8
Bloom Time Early summer, fruits appear through fall
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 (USDA)
Native Areas Native to Central and South America
Toxicity Green parts of plant may be toxic to dogs or cats
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes
Even inexperienced tomato growers may find this variety to be relatively trouble free. It's resistant to many pests and diseases, and has a robust growth habit. It also can be grown easily in containers, Use a large container that's at least five gallons, to give your plants plenty of root space, and make sure the container has good drainage.
Soil
Tomatoes like a rich, well-drained soil. It's important to add new soil and amendments to the garden area where tomatoes are grown each season, and to rotate nightshade crops, to benefit from optimal soil nutrition. The Celebrity tomato does best in a slightly acidic soil. You may also want to consider companion plantings best for tomatoes.
Light
Two words: full sun. Celebrity tomatoes should be grown in full sun.
Water
Watering at the base of the plant with a watering can or drip hose, instead of using a sprinkler or hose from above, is recommended to help prevent spread of blight or disease. (Rain is good too!) Water in the morning or evening on dry days, and avoid watering during the hottest part of the day in summer. Tomatoes like plenty of water, but they do not like wet feet. If your tomato plants are pot grown they will need to be watered more often. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot and overwatering may cause leaves to turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for tomato plants to blossom, fruit and ripen falls in the 70 to 85 degree F. range.1 Being such a hardy plant, variations in temperature probably won't do too much damage to Celebrity tomato plants, but if a heat wave crops up, be sure to water with cool water in the morning and again in the evening so the foliage doesn't dry out. Too much humidity may increase susceptibility to mold or mildew, but the Celebrity has been bred to resist such problems. Even though Celebrity is more a bush type of plant, it is important to leave plenty of space between tomatoes planted in a row in the garden. Good air circulation will help prevent many of the disease problems that plague your plants.
Common Pests and Diseases
This hardy hybrid plant is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and tobacco mosaic virus, as well as nematodes. Tomato fruits are tempting to birds and small wildlife, so you may need to protect them with netting if this is a problem in your garden.
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes from Seed
With the right set up, growing tomatoes from seed is fairly straightforward. Germination will be dependent on light, heat and moisture but most tomato seeds have a good germination rate. Use a seed starting mix and follow the instructions on the seed packet. A greenhouse is ideal for starting seeds for the vegetable and flower gardens but you can grow tomatoes from seed in a sunny windowsill. Once the seedlings emerge, they will begin to reach for the sun, so remember to turn the pots regularly to keep the plants from becoming leggy.
You will need to harden off your tomato seedlings before planting them in the garden. You can accomplish this by exposing them to outdoor temperatures for increasingly longer periods of time over a week or several days. Choose good-sized containers for transplanting your seedlings, or plant in your garden once the seedlings are at least six inches tall, and all danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting
Most tomatoes grow easily in containers, with a few simple guidelines to follow, and Celebrity tomatoes are no exception. The most important tip for growing tomatoes in pots is to make sure the pots are big enough! Tomato root systems require a good amount of space and good drainage. Once transplanted a light watering will help avoid transplant shock. When you are ready to plant out in the garden, dig a deep hole and remove the seed leaves and up to several sets of lower leaves depending on the size of your seedlings. You can bury up to a third of the plant in the soil which encourages a strong root system and helps the roots take up available water.
Among tomato-growing aficionados, this variety is known as a "semi determinate" plant, because after reaching its full height of 3-4 feet, it continues to produce fruit until frost (unlike determinate tomatoes that have a "bush" habit and finite fruiting period/single crop, or indeterminate tomato plants that continue to sprawl and produce fruit throughout their growth season (like cherry tomatoes)
Because they produce such an abundance of large fruits, these plants definitely need cages or stakes to keep them upright. Even with cages, you may find you want to use some plant ties for extra support, especially as fruits grow larger. If the vines seem too heavy with fruit you can always pluck some tomatoes just before they fully ripen, and finish ripening them in a sunny windowsill (indoors, or squirrels might start snacking on them).
Scientific Name Solanum lycopersicum, cultivar 'Celebrity'
Common Name Celebrity tomato
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 3 to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.2 to 6.8
Bloom Time Early summer, fruits appear through fall
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 (USDA)
Native Areas Native to Central and South America
Toxicity Green parts of plant may be toxic to dogs or cats
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes
Even inexperienced tomato growers may find this variety to be relatively trouble free. It's resistant to many pests and diseases, and has a robust growth habit. It also can be grown easily in containers, Use a large container that's at least five gallons, to give your plants plenty of root space, and make sure the container has good drainage.
Soil
Tomatoes like a rich, well-drained soil. It's important to add new soil and amendments to the garden area where tomatoes are grown each season, and to rotate nightshade crops, to benefit from optimal soil nutrition. The Celebrity tomato does best in a slightly acidic soil. You may also want to consider companion plantings best for tomatoes.
Light
Two words: full sun. Celebrity tomatoes should be grown in full sun.
Water
Watering at the base of the plant with a watering can or drip hose, instead of using a sprinkler or hose from above, is recommended to help prevent spread of blight or disease. (Rain is good too!) Water in the morning or evening on dry days, and avoid watering during the hottest part of the day in summer. Tomatoes like plenty of water, but they do not like wet feet. If your tomato plants are pot grown they will need to be watered more often. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot and overwatering may cause leaves to turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for tomato plants to blossom, fruit and ripen falls in the 70 to 85 degree F. range.1 Being such a hardy plant, variations in temperature probably won't do too much damage to Celebrity tomato plants, but if a heat wave crops up, be sure to water with cool water in the morning and again in the evening so the foliage doesn't dry out. Too much humidity may increase susceptibility to mold or mildew, but the Celebrity has been bred to resist such problems. Even though Celebrity is more a bush type of plant, it is important to leave plenty of space between tomatoes planted in a row in the garden. Good air circulation will help prevent many of the disease problems that plague your plants.
Common Pests and Diseases
This hardy hybrid plant is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and tobacco mosaic virus, as well as nematodes. Tomato fruits are tempting to birds and small wildlife, so you may need to protect them with netting if this is a problem in your garden.
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes from Seed
With the right set up, growing tomatoes from seed is fairly straightforward. Germination will be dependent on light, heat and moisture but most tomato seeds have a good germination rate. Use a seed starting mix and follow the instructions on the seed packet. A greenhouse is ideal for starting seeds for the vegetable and flower gardens but you can grow tomatoes from seed in a sunny windowsill. Once the seedlings emerge, they will begin to reach for the sun, so remember to turn the pots regularly to keep the plants from becoming leggy.
You will need to harden off your tomato seedlings before planting them in the garden. You can accomplish this by exposing them to outdoor temperatures for increasingly longer periods of time over a week or several days. Choose good-sized containers for transplanting your seedlings, or plant in your garden once the seedlings are at least six inches tall, and all danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting
Most tomatoes grow easily in containers, with a few simple guidelines to follow, and Celebrity tomatoes are no exception. The most important tip for growing tomatoes in pots is to make sure the pots are big enough! Tomato root systems require a good amount of space and good drainage. Once transplanted a light watering will help avoid transplant shock. When you are ready to plant out in the garden, dig a deep hole and remove the seed leaves and up to several sets of lower leaves depending on the size of your seedlings. You can bury up to a third of the plant in the soil which encourages a strong root system and helps the roots take up available water.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Zucchini is a garden crop that grows easily and abundantly for most gardeners. Growing zucchini on a garden trellis is an effective way of growing more in a small space because less ground space is used. It also is easier to watch for disease and pests, because the vines are up off the ground. In addition, harvesting zucchini growing on trellises is simple because the zucchinis are readily found growing along the sides. Learn how easy it is to grow zucchini on a trellis.
Step 1
To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants.
Step 2
Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind.
Step 3
Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis.
Step 4
Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
Step 5
Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis.
Step 6
Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered.
Step 7
For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
Step 1
To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants.
Step 2
Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind.
Step 3
Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis.
Step 4
Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating.
Step 5
Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis.
Step 6
Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered.
Step 7
For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
The small but mighty pea is a powerhouse of protein packed with disease-reducing vitamins and belly-filling proteins. Dried peas and green peas are basically derived from the same plant and hold the same characteristics, but to a point. They are literally like two peas in a pod with a few minor differences.
Pea School
Although they may seem a separate type of food from the other dried items in your pantry, peas are in the same family as beans and legumes. They are usually considered separate because of their shape.
Peas are spherical, which sets the legumes apart from their legume cousins. To dry peas, they are harvested in the pod when they have reached full maturity, then dried. When peas are fully dried, they split apart at the seam naturally.
The Pea Differential
The cool weather vegetable comes in many varieties. Green peas, snap peas and snow or sugar snap peas are the most common and are available seasonally. Shucking peas is the best way to get the freshest peas. Fresh, juicy and sweet, they are plump and perfect for munching straight from the pod. Steamed fresh peas have a bit of bite when cooked properly, and are a far cry from the variety that becomes dried peas.
Most peas that are sold fresh can be dried, while those that are sold dried aren't usually sold fresh. The fresh peas you find at the grocery store and farmer's market are not the same as those that are harvested for their mature seeds and then dried. It can take up to two weeks to have the mature pea pods completely dry for processing. Mature seeds are higher in starch and make a better dried pea.
Dried peas are built to last and can be stored for years in a cool, dry and preferably dark space. Fresh peas can only be kept cool and crisp in the refrigerator for just a few days before they begin to lose their firm, fibrous structure. Dried peas need to be rehydrated before being consumed.
Pea Health
Although high in fiber, dried peas also offer protein, iron, vitamin C and B vitamins. They provide more than 65 percent of the daily value for fiber. The isoflavones in dried peas are phytonutrients, which have been linked to a reduction in breast and prostate cancer risks. Peas are also part of a heart-healthy diet, lowering the risk of heart disease by more than 80 percent.
Pea School
Although they may seem a separate type of food from the other dried items in your pantry, peas are in the same family as beans and legumes. They are usually considered separate because of their shape.
Peas are spherical, which sets the legumes apart from their legume cousins. To dry peas, they are harvested in the pod when they have reached full maturity, then dried. When peas are fully dried, they split apart at the seam naturally.
The Pea Differential
The cool weather vegetable comes in many varieties. Green peas, snap peas and snow or sugar snap peas are the most common and are available seasonally. Shucking peas is the best way to get the freshest peas. Fresh, juicy and sweet, they are plump and perfect for munching straight from the pod. Steamed fresh peas have a bit of bite when cooked properly, and are a far cry from the variety that becomes dried peas.
Most peas that are sold fresh can be dried, while those that are sold dried aren't usually sold fresh. The fresh peas you find at the grocery store and farmer's market are not the same as those that are harvested for their mature seeds and then dried. It can take up to two weeks to have the mature pea pods completely dry for processing. Mature seeds are higher in starch and make a better dried pea.
Dried peas are built to last and can be stored for years in a cool, dry and preferably dark space. Fresh peas can only be kept cool and crisp in the refrigerator for just a few days before they begin to lose their firm, fibrous structure. Dried peas need to be rehydrated before being consumed.
Pea Health
Although high in fiber, dried peas also offer protein, iron, vitamin C and B vitamins. They provide more than 65 percent of the daily value for fiber. The isoflavones in dried peas are phytonutrients, which have been linked to a reduction in breast and prostate cancer risks. Peas are also part of a heart-healthy diet, lowering the risk of heart disease by more than 80 percent.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
To be healthy, people need vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants. By protecting cells against the damage of free radicals, antioxidants can help protect serious illnesses like cancer and heart disease, according to the National Institute of Health. Dangerous free radicals can be produced by the body as it breaks down food, or encountered in toxins like cigarette smoke, but a diet with antioxidant-rich vegetables can help combat these killers, leading to better health.
Beans
Many types of beans are rich in antioxidants.
Beans, be they kidney, pinto, lima or another variety, are good sources of antioxidants. Studies at Tufts University show a single cup of red beans contains over 13,000 antioxidants, and black beans, even though lowest in the legume family by the same study, still have over 4,000 antioxidants. Beans are also low in fat and cholesterol, but high in protein and fiber, making them filling, healthy and good for proper digestion. To incorporate beans into a diet, try tossing them in salad, blending them into a dip making them into a main dish like bean enchiladas.
Tomatoes
Pizza sauce made from tomatoes is a good source of the antioxidant lycopene.
Tomatoes derive their bright red color from the antioxidant lycopene and are one of the best sources of this free-radical fighting nutrient, according to the American Cancer Society. People who consume a diet high in tomatoes "appear in some studies to have a lower risk of certain types of cancer, especially cancers of the prostate, lung and stomach" says the society, which adds that studies have shown consuming cooked tomatoes is the most beneficial to health. Furthermore, including a healthy fat, like olive oil, with a lycopene source makes it easier for the body to absorb. Tomatoes are also high in vitamin C, potassium and other nutrients as well.
Kale
Kale is a variety of lettuce that's high in nutrients.
A type of cabbage, kale is a green leaf vegetable with curly edges and a study at Tufts University showed that it contains more than 11,000 antioxidants. According to the World's Healthiest Foods website, kale is particularly high in flavonoids and carotenoids, types of antioxidants which are believed to help fight cancer. World's Healthiest Foods also states these groups of antioxidants can help raise the amount of certain nutrients in the blood, such as beta-carotene and lutein, which keep the heart and eyes healthy. Kale is also high in vitamin K and essential fatty acids, which have powerful anti-inflammatory properties.
Eggplant
Antioxidants in eggplant can help prevent cell damage.
The chubby purple eggplant has been shown to contain high amounts of important antioxidants in government tests. The Agricultural Research Service conducted studies that showed eggplants are high in chlorogenic acid, "one of the most powerful antioxidants produced in plant tissues" according to the agency. A type of phenolic compound, chlorogenic acid, among other antioxidants, is produced by vegetables to protect themselves from infection and stress, and Harvard University states these antioxidants prevent cell damage, protect against infection and can help control cholesterol.
Beans
Many types of beans are rich in antioxidants.
Beans, be they kidney, pinto, lima or another variety, are good sources of antioxidants. Studies at Tufts University show a single cup of red beans contains over 13,000 antioxidants, and black beans, even though lowest in the legume family by the same study, still have over 4,000 antioxidants. Beans are also low in fat and cholesterol, but high in protein and fiber, making them filling, healthy and good for proper digestion. To incorporate beans into a diet, try tossing them in salad, blending them into a dip making them into a main dish like bean enchiladas.
Tomatoes
Pizza sauce made from tomatoes is a good source of the antioxidant lycopene.
Tomatoes derive their bright red color from the antioxidant lycopene and are one of the best sources of this free-radical fighting nutrient, according to the American Cancer Society. People who consume a diet high in tomatoes "appear in some studies to have a lower risk of certain types of cancer, especially cancers of the prostate, lung and stomach" says the society, which adds that studies have shown consuming cooked tomatoes is the most beneficial to health. Furthermore, including a healthy fat, like olive oil, with a lycopene source makes it easier for the body to absorb. Tomatoes are also high in vitamin C, potassium and other nutrients as well.
Kale
Kale is a variety of lettuce that's high in nutrients.
A type of cabbage, kale is a green leaf vegetable with curly edges and a study at Tufts University showed that it contains more than 11,000 antioxidants. According to the World's Healthiest Foods website, kale is particularly high in flavonoids and carotenoids, types of antioxidants which are believed to help fight cancer. World's Healthiest Foods also states these groups of antioxidants can help raise the amount of certain nutrients in the blood, such as beta-carotene and lutein, which keep the heart and eyes healthy. Kale is also high in vitamin K and essential fatty acids, which have powerful anti-inflammatory properties.
Eggplant
Antioxidants in eggplant can help prevent cell damage.
The chubby purple eggplant has been shown to contain high amounts of important antioxidants in government tests. The Agricultural Research Service conducted studies that showed eggplants are high in chlorogenic acid, "one of the most powerful antioxidants produced in plant tissues" according to the agency. A type of phenolic compound, chlorogenic acid, among other antioxidants, is produced by vegetables to protect themselves from infection and stress, and Harvard University states these antioxidants prevent cell damage, protect against infection and can help control cholesterol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Across the month of March, gardeners in Tennessee prepare their soil beds in anticipation of planting potatoes. Rather than growing these vegetables from seeds, gardeners purchase small, healthy tubers called seed potatoes, which are certified disease-free. Since seed potatoes are planted in the ground and initially protected from frost, planting take place roughly two to four weeks before the average last spring frost date across the Volunteer State. The ideal garden site for potatoes is one with fertile, organic-rich soil that is moist and drains well. Full sun exposure ensures the best growth and production of tubers for harvest.
Step 1
Cultivate the soil with a shovel or rototiller in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Dig the soil 6 to 10 inches deep. That means there is no frost in the soil, and it's not overly wet. Depending on the location in Tennessee, prepare the vegetable garden area for potatoes between late February and late March.
Step 2
Scatter 1 to 3 inches of organic matter on top of the soil and mix with the shovel or rototiller. Use compost, leaf mold or well-rotted animal manure to improve the texture and fertility of the soil. The potatoes will benefit from your bed preparation.
Step 3
Rake the tilled area smooth with a garden rake and allow it to naturally settle for three to seven days. While raking, remove any debris and pulverize any soil clumps so the area is even and fine-textured.
Step 4
Purchase seed potatoes at the garden center. Ask staff members for insight into the different varieties. Confirm that the seed potatoes are certified disease-free. They also should look plump and feel dry and firm to the touch.
Step 5
Cut the seed potatoes with a knife into segments about 2 oz. in size. Each cut segment needs to contain at least one dormant bud called an eye. From this eye the potato stem and roots sprout. This is optional since some seed potatoes are rather small and don't need cutting so one to three eyes exist on each. If you cannot plant the cut seed potatoes within four hours, allow them to air dry for one or two days. This curing of the wounds seals the tuber and helps prevent any infestation by disease spores.
Step 6
Create a 4- to 5-inch-deep furrow in the vegetable garden with the hoe. Space rows of potatoes 36 inches apart.
Step 7
Place a seed potato into the furrow with the cut side down or eyes oriented upward or to the side. Space potatoes 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow. Cover them with soil and gently tamp the surface with the back of the hoe blade. This removes air pockets and brings the seed potatoes in direct contact with soil particles.
Step 1
Cultivate the soil with a shovel or rototiller in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Dig the soil 6 to 10 inches deep. That means there is no frost in the soil, and it's not overly wet. Depending on the location in Tennessee, prepare the vegetable garden area for potatoes between late February and late March.
Step 2
Scatter 1 to 3 inches of organic matter on top of the soil and mix with the shovel or rototiller. Use compost, leaf mold or well-rotted animal manure to improve the texture and fertility of the soil. The potatoes will benefit from your bed preparation.
Step 3
Rake the tilled area smooth with a garden rake and allow it to naturally settle for three to seven days. While raking, remove any debris and pulverize any soil clumps so the area is even and fine-textured.
Step 4
Purchase seed potatoes at the garden center. Ask staff members for insight into the different varieties. Confirm that the seed potatoes are certified disease-free. They also should look plump and feel dry and firm to the touch.
Step 5
Cut the seed potatoes with a knife into segments about 2 oz. in size. Each cut segment needs to contain at least one dormant bud called an eye. From this eye the potato stem and roots sprout. This is optional since some seed potatoes are rather small and don't need cutting so one to three eyes exist on each. If you cannot plant the cut seed potatoes within four hours, allow them to air dry for one or two days. This curing of the wounds seals the tuber and helps prevent any infestation by disease spores.
Step 6
Create a 4- to 5-inch-deep furrow in the vegetable garden with the hoe. Space rows of potatoes 36 inches apart.
Step 7
Place a seed potato into the furrow with the cut side down or eyes oriented upward or to the side. Space potatoes 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow. Cover them with soil and gently tamp the surface with the back of the hoe blade. This removes air pockets and brings the seed potatoes in direct contact with soil particles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月10日
Okra plants turning yellow signal potentially disastrous problems. Yellowed leaves lack chlorophyll, the catalyst that converts sunlight to food for the plant. As the plant starves, okra's natural resistance to insects and disease declines. Yellowed leaves sometimes indicate problems gardeners can easily remedy, but other issues require long-term solutions, such as crop rotation and soil improvement.
Poor Soil
Planting okra seed in soil colder than 65 degrees Fahrenheit could cause immediate root problems. Waiting to plant until about 10 days after the last frost date gives soil time to warm enough for okra. Mounding the planting row also raises the soil temperature. Lack of nitrogen could also cause yellowing problems in okra, which needs rich well-drained soil for proper growth. Increasing the amount of organic material in the ground improves drainage and reduces okra problems in heavy clay. Cultivate the ground deeply before planting, turning over the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.
Fungal Infection
Dense clay soils with poor drainage provide favorable conditions for fungal disease in okra. Okra shows no resistance to verticillium wilt, which damages okra roots and causes wilting and yellowing of the plant above ground. Lower leaves show symptoms first, and problems move higher on the plant as the disease spreads. Leaves shrivel and die in the final stages of the infection. No chemical treatment will help okra infected with verticillium wilt. Fungal spores overwinter in soil, setting the stage for more problems. Solarization by heating the upper layers of soil under clear plastic sheeting reduces the incidence of verticillium wilt.
Insect Problems
Sucking insects could attack okra, and cause loss of vigor and dying leaves. Red spider mites suck the plant's sap from leaf surfaces, causing a speckled, white or yellow pattern on leaves. In heavy infestations, leaves turn pale and then shrivel and brown. Aphids also drain the plant of nourishment by sucking fluid from leaves and stems. Both adult tobacco whiteflies and whitefly nymphs feed on okra sap and could cause plants to wilt and yellow. Checking the undersides of leaves and the stems of okra plants should reveal any insect problems. Spraying the plants with insecticidal soap destroys soft-bodied pests.
Nematodes
Nematodes could cause serious damage to okra as the small roundworms bore into roots. When the plant's wound heals, galls or root-knots form. Severely affected okra plants lose the ability to draw up water and nutrition from the soil. The upper plant yellows and dies. No chemical treatments are approved for nematode problems in the home garden, according to the University of Florida Extension. Gardeners can control nematodes through crop rotation, planting okra after crops such as corn, brassicas or onions. Cover cropping with marigolds and turning the plants under reduces nematode numbers. Improving soil quality by adding humus and repeatedly tilling the ground also prepares a healthier plot for okra.
Poor Soil
Planting okra seed in soil colder than 65 degrees Fahrenheit could cause immediate root problems. Waiting to plant until about 10 days after the last frost date gives soil time to warm enough for okra. Mounding the planting row also raises the soil temperature. Lack of nitrogen could also cause yellowing problems in okra, which needs rich well-drained soil for proper growth. Increasing the amount of organic material in the ground improves drainage and reduces okra problems in heavy clay. Cultivate the ground deeply before planting, turning over the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.
Fungal Infection
Dense clay soils with poor drainage provide favorable conditions for fungal disease in okra. Okra shows no resistance to verticillium wilt, which damages okra roots and causes wilting and yellowing of the plant above ground. Lower leaves show symptoms first, and problems move higher on the plant as the disease spreads. Leaves shrivel and die in the final stages of the infection. No chemical treatment will help okra infected with verticillium wilt. Fungal spores overwinter in soil, setting the stage for more problems. Solarization by heating the upper layers of soil under clear plastic sheeting reduces the incidence of verticillium wilt.
Insect Problems
Sucking insects could attack okra, and cause loss of vigor and dying leaves. Red spider mites suck the plant's sap from leaf surfaces, causing a speckled, white or yellow pattern on leaves. In heavy infestations, leaves turn pale and then shrivel and brown. Aphids also drain the plant of nourishment by sucking fluid from leaves and stems. Both adult tobacco whiteflies and whitefly nymphs feed on okra sap and could cause plants to wilt and yellow. Checking the undersides of leaves and the stems of okra plants should reveal any insect problems. Spraying the plants with insecticidal soap destroys soft-bodied pests.
Nematodes
Nematodes could cause serious damage to okra as the small roundworms bore into roots. When the plant's wound heals, galls or root-knots form. Severely affected okra plants lose the ability to draw up water and nutrition from the soil. The upper plant yellows and dies. No chemical treatments are approved for nematode problems in the home garden, according to the University of Florida Extension. Gardeners can control nematodes through crop rotation, planting okra after crops such as corn, brassicas or onions. Cover cropping with marigolds and turning the plants under reduces nematode numbers. Improving soil quality by adding humus and repeatedly tilling the ground also prepares a healthier plot for okra.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
Varieties for Florida
Because Florida's heat and humidity put tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) at risk for disease and pest problems, the University of Florida Extension service recommends that gardeners choose tomato varieties that are identified as being disease and pest resistant and are hardy growing in the state's conditions. The extension service specifically recommends nearly three dozen varieties for Florida, and of those, more than a dozen show resistance to at least some common disease and pest problems.
The recommended varieties are not necessarily suitable for all parts of Florida, however. 'Bonnie Best,' for example, an indeterminate variety with medium-sized fruit, is noted as faring better in the northern part of the state, while 'Solar Set,' a determinate variety with large fruit, produces better than many varieties in the heat of South Florida. The determinate 'Flora-Dade' provides large tomatoes and is "highly recommended" for Florida by the extension service, while indeterminate 'Sweet Chelsea' provides abundant amounts of small tomatoes.
Timing of Planting
Florida's warm climate gives the state's gardeners the opportunity to get a head start on the growing season by planting tomatoes in the late winter or early spring, much earlier than the safe planting dates in cooler climates in the rest of the country. Tomatoes are frost tender, so they can't be planted outdoors until the danger of frost has passed, but they also become unproductive when temperatures are high, so they must be planted early enough, particularly in South Florida, to set fruit before the summer heat reaches its peak.
In North Florida, tomatoes may be planted between February and April, in Central Florida between January and March, and in South Florida between November and February. They may be planted for a late-season crop between August and September in all parts of the state.
Site Conditions and Planting
Plant tomato plants in well-drained soil and in an area that receives full sun. Set plants in the ground at a level that's slightly deeper than they were growing in their starting medium, taking care to remove any lower leaves so that they're not buried; this deep planting encourages a stronger root system, as they sprout roots along the buried stem. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart, and allow 4 to 5 feet between rows.
Watering
Water transplants thoroughly at planting time, and ensure that the plants get 1 to 2 inches of water per week during the growing season. If you need to provide supplemental irrigation during dry periods, water with the entire 1 to 2 inches at once, rather than in several light waterings during the week.
Fertilization
At planting time, apply 1 pounds of a 6-8-8 dry fertilizer per 20 square feet of planting area in strips on either side of each row. Side dress with the same fertilizer every seven to 10 days during the growing season, beginning three weeks after planting; apply at a rate so that the total fertilizer for the season, including the initial application, totals 2 pounds per 20 square feet. Always water thoroughly after each application.
Because Florida's heat and humidity put tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) at risk for disease and pest problems, the University of Florida Extension service recommends that gardeners choose tomato varieties that are identified as being disease and pest resistant and are hardy growing in the state's conditions. The extension service specifically recommends nearly three dozen varieties for Florida, and of those, more than a dozen show resistance to at least some common disease and pest problems.
The recommended varieties are not necessarily suitable for all parts of Florida, however. 'Bonnie Best,' for example, an indeterminate variety with medium-sized fruit, is noted as faring better in the northern part of the state, while 'Solar Set,' a determinate variety with large fruit, produces better than many varieties in the heat of South Florida. The determinate 'Flora-Dade' provides large tomatoes and is "highly recommended" for Florida by the extension service, while indeterminate 'Sweet Chelsea' provides abundant amounts of small tomatoes.
Timing of Planting
Florida's warm climate gives the state's gardeners the opportunity to get a head start on the growing season by planting tomatoes in the late winter or early spring, much earlier than the safe planting dates in cooler climates in the rest of the country. Tomatoes are frost tender, so they can't be planted outdoors until the danger of frost has passed, but they also become unproductive when temperatures are high, so they must be planted early enough, particularly in South Florida, to set fruit before the summer heat reaches its peak.
In North Florida, tomatoes may be planted between February and April, in Central Florida between January and March, and in South Florida between November and February. They may be planted for a late-season crop between August and September in all parts of the state.
Site Conditions and Planting
Plant tomato plants in well-drained soil and in an area that receives full sun. Set plants in the ground at a level that's slightly deeper than they were growing in their starting medium, taking care to remove any lower leaves so that they're not buried; this deep planting encourages a stronger root system, as they sprout roots along the buried stem. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart, and allow 4 to 5 feet between rows.
Watering
Water transplants thoroughly at planting time, and ensure that the plants get 1 to 2 inches of water per week during the growing season. If you need to provide supplemental irrigation during dry periods, water with the entire 1 to 2 inches at once, rather than in several light waterings during the week.
Fertilization
At planting time, apply 1 pounds of a 6-8-8 dry fertilizer per 20 square feet of planting area in strips on either side of each row. Side dress with the same fertilizer every seven to 10 days during the growing season, beginning three weeks after planting; apply at a rate so that the total fertilizer for the season, including the initial application, totals 2 pounds per 20 square feet. Always water thoroughly after each application.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) can resist many pest and disease problems, but plants weakened or stressed may fall prey to problems. The shrub grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also thrives as a potted plant in any climate. Soil or site conditions are common problems, although pests and fungus can also kill rosemary. It can be difficult or even impossible to save rosemary once it begins to die, but quick diagnosis and treatment sometimes prove successful.
Winter Kill
Winter freezes can kill a rosemary shrub, but it may not become obvious until after the temperature begins to warm in spring. The evergreen sprigs begin losing their color, become dry and brittle, and eventually turn completely brown or yellow. (ref 3) Minor freeze damage only kills a few branches, allowing you to save the plant, while major damage kills the roots and plant entirely. Cut back the damaged branches to the nearest healthy wood using pruning shears disinfected with isopropyl alcohol. The healthy roots and remaining living branches will usually survive and put on new growth through spring and summer. Prevent future stress by growing the rosemary in a pot and overwintering it indoors, or by covering it with a frost blanket when short hard freezes are expected.
Water Stress
Locations that easily become wet or waterlogged slowly kill rosemary plants. Rosemary can tolerate more moisture in summer, but wet winter soil quickly kills the plant either by suffocating the roots or by freezing solid. Rosemary prefers well-drained soil and moderate moisture conditions. Dig up and transplant the shrub to a well-drained, full sun garden bed, or transplant it into a pot with bottom drainage holes. Water rosemary about once a week when there is no rainfall and when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry, providing no more than 1 inch of water at each irrigation.
Fungal Disease
Fungal issues typically go hand-in-hand with wet soil. Root and crown rot, caused by the Phytophthora spp. fungus, cause stunted growth or branch death. The rosemary sprigs yellow and dry out, while the base of the stem and roots become soft, mushy and produce a foul odor. Moving the rosemary to a site with better drainage and refraining from watering until after recovery may allow it to live if the roots aren't badly damaged, but most shrubs won't recover from root rot. Powdery mildew fungus, which forms as a white powder on the rosemary needles, favors dry conditions and warm temperatures between 60 and 80 degree Fahrenheit. Providing the rosemary with full, all-day sunlight and spraying the foliage with water early in the day to rinse away spores can minimize mildew issues. For extreme infections, cut out the mildewed branches with disinfected shears so the remaining healthy branches can recover.
Leaf and Stem Pests
Various pests feed on rosemary plants, including spittle bugs, aphids and whiteflies. Rosemary usually recovers from pest damage unless the infestation is severe or if the plant is already weakened by cold or water stress. Pear-shaped aphids feed on the underside of the stems. Spittle bugs leave behind a white, foamy residue that resembles spittle. Treat both by rinsing them off the rosemary with a sharp spray of water, or drench the plant with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at five-day intervals until the pests are gone. Water sprays and soap products can also help control whiteflies. Spray the plants several times a day with water to discourage the flies and their larvae. Yellow sticky traps or reflective mulch spread around the rosemary may also minimize whitefly problems.
Chemical Damage
Premature needle death, yellowing of the needle tips or a general burned appearance may indicate chemical damage from herbicides, pesticides or improper fertilization. Herbicide drift, which occurs when the wind carries the spray beyond its intended target, causes leaf dieback or kills the entire plant. Pruning out the affected branches may allow the plant to recover if the chemicals haven't reached the roots. Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to the buildup of fertilizer salts in the soil, especially in container-grown plants. Watering the rosemary deeply so the excess moisture drains freely from the bottom of the pot at least once monthly during the summer helps flush out any excess salt.
Nutritional Deficiencies
Fertilizer is seldom necessary for a rosemary shrub, especially those grown in garden beds where the trace nutrients in the soil provide sufficient fertilization. Potted plants or those grown in exceptionally poor soil may be suffering from a nutrient deficiency if the plant grows slowly or develops stunted, pale yellow needles. An application of a general purpose fertilizer in early spring should provide enough nutrients to help the plant recover. Follow package instructions or mix 1/2 teaspoon of a soluble 24-8-16 blend with 1 gallon of water, and water the rosemary with the solution. Avoid applying fertilizer directly to the foliage because it can damage the needles.
Winter Kill
Winter freezes can kill a rosemary shrub, but it may not become obvious until after the temperature begins to warm in spring. The evergreen sprigs begin losing their color, become dry and brittle, and eventually turn completely brown or yellow. (ref 3) Minor freeze damage only kills a few branches, allowing you to save the plant, while major damage kills the roots and plant entirely. Cut back the damaged branches to the nearest healthy wood using pruning shears disinfected with isopropyl alcohol. The healthy roots and remaining living branches will usually survive and put on new growth through spring and summer. Prevent future stress by growing the rosemary in a pot and overwintering it indoors, or by covering it with a frost blanket when short hard freezes are expected.
Water Stress
Locations that easily become wet or waterlogged slowly kill rosemary plants. Rosemary can tolerate more moisture in summer, but wet winter soil quickly kills the plant either by suffocating the roots or by freezing solid. Rosemary prefers well-drained soil and moderate moisture conditions. Dig up and transplant the shrub to a well-drained, full sun garden bed, or transplant it into a pot with bottom drainage holes. Water rosemary about once a week when there is no rainfall and when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry, providing no more than 1 inch of water at each irrigation.
Fungal Disease
Fungal issues typically go hand-in-hand with wet soil. Root and crown rot, caused by the Phytophthora spp. fungus, cause stunted growth or branch death. The rosemary sprigs yellow and dry out, while the base of the stem and roots become soft, mushy and produce a foul odor. Moving the rosemary to a site with better drainage and refraining from watering until after recovery may allow it to live if the roots aren't badly damaged, but most shrubs won't recover from root rot. Powdery mildew fungus, which forms as a white powder on the rosemary needles, favors dry conditions and warm temperatures between 60 and 80 degree Fahrenheit. Providing the rosemary with full, all-day sunlight and spraying the foliage with water early in the day to rinse away spores can minimize mildew issues. For extreme infections, cut out the mildewed branches with disinfected shears so the remaining healthy branches can recover.
Leaf and Stem Pests
Various pests feed on rosemary plants, including spittle bugs, aphids and whiteflies. Rosemary usually recovers from pest damage unless the infestation is severe or if the plant is already weakened by cold or water stress. Pear-shaped aphids feed on the underside of the stems. Spittle bugs leave behind a white, foamy residue that resembles spittle. Treat both by rinsing them off the rosemary with a sharp spray of water, or drench the plant with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at five-day intervals until the pests are gone. Water sprays and soap products can also help control whiteflies. Spray the plants several times a day with water to discourage the flies and their larvae. Yellow sticky traps or reflective mulch spread around the rosemary may also minimize whitefly problems.
Chemical Damage
Premature needle death, yellowing of the needle tips or a general burned appearance may indicate chemical damage from herbicides, pesticides or improper fertilization. Herbicide drift, which occurs when the wind carries the spray beyond its intended target, causes leaf dieback or kills the entire plant. Pruning out the affected branches may allow the plant to recover if the chemicals haven't reached the roots. Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to the buildup of fertilizer salts in the soil, especially in container-grown plants. Watering the rosemary deeply so the excess moisture drains freely from the bottom of the pot at least once monthly during the summer helps flush out any excess salt.
Nutritional Deficiencies
Fertilizer is seldom necessary for a rosemary shrub, especially those grown in garden beds where the trace nutrients in the soil provide sufficient fertilization. Potted plants or those grown in exceptionally poor soil may be suffering from a nutrient deficiency if the plant grows slowly or develops stunted, pale yellow needles. An application of a general purpose fertilizer in early spring should provide enough nutrients to help the plant recover. Follow package instructions or mix 1/2 teaspoon of a soluble 24-8-16 blend with 1 gallon of water, and water the rosemary with the solution. Avoid applying fertilizer directly to the foliage because it can damage the needles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Although easy to grow as an annual in the United States, the tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) is, unfortunately, vulnerable to a wide variety of diseases. Choosing disease-resistant varieties, spacing plants adequately and keeping garden soil free of debris will help to prevent many common problems. Knowing how to spot symptoms of bacterial or fungal infection will make disease identification and control easier.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Although tomatoes need moist, rich soil to produce healthy fruit, too much water is just as bad as too little. Signs of over watering may mimic disease or other environmental problems, but if several symptoms are present, too much water is the likely cause. Fortunately, tomato plants usually recover within a few weeks from over watering.
Excess Foliage
Over watering, as well as over fertilizing, causes tomato plants to produce lots of lush, leafy growth, but few tomatoes. Cold weather and drought conditions may also cause blossoms to drop, but won't produce an excess of foliage. If your plant seems to have an overabundance of leaves, but no fruit, suspect too much water or nitrogen.
Fruit Symptoms
As a tomato begins to ripen from green to red, the fruit develops a thin, papery shell. If the plant is watered excessively during this time, the shell cracks. Blossom-end rot is a brown or black spot that develops on the bottom of the fruit and spreads, eventually causing the entire fruit to decay. Blossom-end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency, but is exacerbated by inconsistent watering practices.
Leaf Symptoms
Too much water and too little water often produce similar results. The leaves may wilt, turn yellow and drop, or the tips may become burnt. Too much fertilizer also causes leaf tip burn. Brown spots on the leaves, cankers or holes are usually caused by disease or insect infestation rather than environmental conditions.
Considerations
Amend heavy clay soils or sandy soils with compost and manure before planting tomatoes. These amendments improve drainage for both types of soil, reducing the risk of over watering. Water tomatoes when the soil feels dry 1/2 inch under the surface. Stick your finger into the soil to check. If it feels dry at the first joint, it's time to water. Water for at least 20 to 30 minutes to allow the moisture to soak thoroughly into the soil. Check the soil frequently to keep it consistently moist -- neither dry nor soggy.
Excess Foliage
Over watering, as well as over fertilizing, causes tomato plants to produce lots of lush, leafy growth, but few tomatoes. Cold weather and drought conditions may also cause blossoms to drop, but won't produce an excess of foliage. If your plant seems to have an overabundance of leaves, but no fruit, suspect too much water or nitrogen.
Fruit Symptoms
As a tomato begins to ripen from green to red, the fruit develops a thin, papery shell. If the plant is watered excessively during this time, the shell cracks. Blossom-end rot is a brown or black spot that develops on the bottom of the fruit and spreads, eventually causing the entire fruit to decay. Blossom-end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency, but is exacerbated by inconsistent watering practices.
Leaf Symptoms
Too much water and too little water often produce similar results. The leaves may wilt, turn yellow and drop, or the tips may become burnt. Too much fertilizer also causes leaf tip burn. Brown spots on the leaves, cankers or holes are usually caused by disease or insect infestation rather than environmental conditions.
Considerations
Amend heavy clay soils or sandy soils with compost and manure before planting tomatoes. These amendments improve drainage for both types of soil, reducing the risk of over watering. Water tomatoes when the soil feels dry 1/2 inch under the surface. Stick your finger into the soil to check. If it feels dry at the first joint, it's time to water. Water for at least 20 to 30 minutes to allow the moisture to soak thoroughly into the soil. Check the soil frequently to keep it consistently moist -- neither dry nor soggy.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
To diagnose tomato fungal diseases, look for rotten-looking spots in humid weather, especially if it has been raining or you've been watering your tomatoes (Lycopericon esculentum) with sprinklers. No fungal disease is limited strictly to tomatoes. The same fungal diseases that strike tomatoes strike other plants. Turn to simple homemade fungicides to help get rid of the problem.
Fungal Diseases Found on Tomatoes
When the weather is hot, watch for the telltale spots of these fungal diseases that often strike tomatoes.
Powdery mildew (Leveillula taurica) causes irregular, bright-yellow blotches on leaves. The blotches develop dead spots surrounded by a yellow halos. White spores form on the tops or bottoms of the leaves. Powdery mildew eventually kills the leaves, weakening the plant and causing sunburned tomatoes.
Early blight, caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, appears as spots with concentric rings and surrounded by yellow on leaves, stems and tomatoes. Early blight can kill much of the leaves and cause tomatoes to drop.
Late blight, caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans, typically starts in cool weather, forming dark, water-soaked spots with white mold on the edges. Late blight can turn leaves and stems completely brown within two weeks. Infected tomatoes develop shiny dark spots.
Septoria (Septoria lycopersici) typically appears when it has rained or you're using sprinklers and the temperatures are between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. After the plants begin to set tomatoes, small beige spots with dark borders appear on leaves near the ground. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The weakened plant produces smaller, poorer quality tomatoes.
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulfa, forms yellowish or pale green spots on the tops of leaves. As the top leaves grow, turning more yellow, a gray, velvety mass of spores grow on the bottoms of the leaves. It can also attack blossoms, stems and tomatoes. It starts in warm weather with high humidity.
Anthracnose, caused by the fungus Colletotrichum coccoides, causes small rounded dents on tomatoes that grow larger and spread deeper. This fungus also appears in warm, humid weather with sprinkler watering or rainfall.
Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) spreads upward from the soil, causing drooping plants and wilting, yellow leaves, sometimes on just one side of the stem.
Fungicides for Powdery Mildew
Try apple cider vinegar or milk to treat powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.
Mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of 5 percent acidic apple cider vinegar in 1 gallon of water. Pour into a garden sprayer and spray on the leaves during the cool hours of morning.
Spray a mixture of 1 ounce of milk to 9 ounces of water every three to four days when you first spot signs of powdery mildew on your plants.
More Homemade Fungicides
To prevent or treat fungal diseases, spray plants the tops and bottoms of the leaves twice a week during wet weather and once each week during dry conditions with a 3 percent solution of hydrogen peroxide, which you can buy at most drug stores. Check the label on the hydrogen peroxide, but there's usually no need to dilute the standard drugstore type. Do not spray young seedlings with this mixture as it can potentially kill them. Use this mixture only on established plants.
Finely chop 1 garlic bulb, 2 tablespoons of canola oil, 4 hot peppers and 1 lemon in a blender. Steep this mixture overnight then strain it through cheesecloth or other fine strainer. Add 4 tablespoons of this mixture in 1 gallon of water, pour it into a sprayer and use it when you spot symptoms of fungal disease, spraying tops and bottom of the foliage.
To make a fungicide from cornmeal, soak 1 cup of whole, ground cornmeal in 5 gallons of water then strain the solids. Spray the milky juice on tomato leaves.
Finely chop 1 cup of horseradish roots in a food processor and soak it in 16 ounces of water for 24 hours. Strain the liquid, mix it with 2 quarts of water, put it in a sprayer and spray it on the leaves.
Bordeaux Mixture
While the term "homemade" suggests household ingredients, perhaps the best organically approved fungicide you can make at home to treat a wide variety of fungal disease on tomatoes uses ingredients that you can buy at most garden supply centers. The Bordeaux mixture is especially useful for treating early and late blight in addition to powdery mildew and other fungal infections.
To make a Bordeaux mixture appropriate for home garden use, mix 3 tablespoons of hydrated lime with 1 pint of water. Separately, mix 6 1/2 tablespoons of copper sulfate in another pint of water. Filter each of these through cheesecloth or other loosely woven cloth to remove particles that might clog a sprayer nozzle. Pour the copper sulfate solution into the garden sprayer tank then the hydrated lime solution then another 3 pints of water.
Shake the tank frequently while you spray the tomatoes.
Fungal Diseases Found on Tomatoes
When the weather is hot, watch for the telltale spots of these fungal diseases that often strike tomatoes.
Powdery mildew (Leveillula taurica) causes irregular, bright-yellow blotches on leaves. The blotches develop dead spots surrounded by a yellow halos. White spores form on the tops or bottoms of the leaves. Powdery mildew eventually kills the leaves, weakening the plant and causing sunburned tomatoes.
Early blight, caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, appears as spots with concentric rings and surrounded by yellow on leaves, stems and tomatoes. Early blight can kill much of the leaves and cause tomatoes to drop.
Late blight, caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans, typically starts in cool weather, forming dark, water-soaked spots with white mold on the edges. Late blight can turn leaves and stems completely brown within two weeks. Infected tomatoes develop shiny dark spots.
Septoria (Septoria lycopersici) typically appears when it has rained or you're using sprinklers and the temperatures are between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. After the plants begin to set tomatoes, small beige spots with dark borders appear on leaves near the ground. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The weakened plant produces smaller, poorer quality tomatoes.
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulfa, forms yellowish or pale green spots on the tops of leaves. As the top leaves grow, turning more yellow, a gray, velvety mass of spores grow on the bottoms of the leaves. It can also attack blossoms, stems and tomatoes. It starts in warm weather with high humidity.
Anthracnose, caused by the fungus Colletotrichum coccoides, causes small rounded dents on tomatoes that grow larger and spread deeper. This fungus also appears in warm, humid weather with sprinkler watering or rainfall.
Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) spreads upward from the soil, causing drooping plants and wilting, yellow leaves, sometimes on just one side of the stem.
Fungicides for Powdery Mildew
Try apple cider vinegar or milk to treat powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.
Mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of 5 percent acidic apple cider vinegar in 1 gallon of water. Pour into a garden sprayer and spray on the leaves during the cool hours of morning.
Spray a mixture of 1 ounce of milk to 9 ounces of water every three to four days when you first spot signs of powdery mildew on your plants.
More Homemade Fungicides
To prevent or treat fungal diseases, spray plants the tops and bottoms of the leaves twice a week during wet weather and once each week during dry conditions with a 3 percent solution of hydrogen peroxide, which you can buy at most drug stores. Check the label on the hydrogen peroxide, but there's usually no need to dilute the standard drugstore type. Do not spray young seedlings with this mixture as it can potentially kill them. Use this mixture only on established plants.
Finely chop 1 garlic bulb, 2 tablespoons of canola oil, 4 hot peppers and 1 lemon in a blender. Steep this mixture overnight then strain it through cheesecloth or other fine strainer. Add 4 tablespoons of this mixture in 1 gallon of water, pour it into a sprayer and use it when you spot symptoms of fungal disease, spraying tops and bottom of the foliage.
To make a fungicide from cornmeal, soak 1 cup of whole, ground cornmeal in 5 gallons of water then strain the solids. Spray the milky juice on tomato leaves.
Finely chop 1 cup of horseradish roots in a food processor and soak it in 16 ounces of water for 24 hours. Strain the liquid, mix it with 2 quarts of water, put it in a sprayer and spray it on the leaves.
Bordeaux Mixture
While the term "homemade" suggests household ingredients, perhaps the best organically approved fungicide you can make at home to treat a wide variety of fungal disease on tomatoes uses ingredients that you can buy at most garden supply centers. The Bordeaux mixture is especially useful for treating early and late blight in addition to powdery mildew and other fungal infections.
To make a Bordeaux mixture appropriate for home garden use, mix 3 tablespoons of hydrated lime with 1 pint of water. Separately, mix 6 1/2 tablespoons of copper sulfate in another pint of water. Filter each of these through cheesecloth or other loosely woven cloth to remove particles that might clog a sprayer nozzle. Pour the copper sulfate solution into the garden sprayer tank then the hydrated lime solution then another 3 pints of water.
Shake the tank frequently while you spray the tomatoes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Anytime anything unusual occurs on a plant, this gives gardeners a reason to be concerned about their plant. When a plant gets brown edges on leaves or brown leaf tips, a gardener’s first thought may be that this is a disease or pest that is attacking the plant. This is not always the case.
What Causes Brown Edges on Leaves of Plants?
When there are whole brown leaves on a plant, this can indicate several dozen problems; but when just the sides or tips of the leaf turn brown, there is only one problem — the plant is stressed. Most commonly brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves are caused by the plant not getting enough water. There are several reasons why this may happen.
There may be too little natural water falling. If this is what is causing the sides of the leaf to turn brown, you should supplement the rainfall with manual watering. The roots are constricted and unable to reach out for water. This cause of brown leaf tips happens most frequently with container grown plants, but can happen with plants in the ground in particularly heavy clay soils that may act like a container. Either increase watering or replant the plant so that the roots have more room to grow. The soil does not hold onto the water.
If you live in an area that has sandy soil, the water may simply be draining away too fast and this may be causing brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with organic material which will hold onto the water better. In the meantime, increase the frequency of watering. The roots may be damaged. If the area where the plant is has been flooded by water or if the soil around the plant is too compacted, this can cause root damage. When the roots become damaged, there is not enough of a root system for the plant to properly take up enough water. In this case, correct the problem that is causing the root damage and then prune back the plant some to reduce its water needs while the root system recovers.
Another reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil. This can either be natural in the soil, such as from living close to the ocean, or this can happen through over fertilizing. If you live near a source of salt water, there will be very little you can do to correct the problem. If you suspect that you have over fertilized, reduce the amount of fertilizer and increase the amount of watering for a few weeks to help wash the salt away. While brown leaf tips and brown edges on leaves can be alarming, it is, for the most part, an easily fixed problem.
What Causes Brown Edges on Leaves of Plants?
When there are whole brown leaves on a plant, this can indicate several dozen problems; but when just the sides or tips of the leaf turn brown, there is only one problem — the plant is stressed. Most commonly brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves are caused by the plant not getting enough water. There are several reasons why this may happen.
There may be too little natural water falling. If this is what is causing the sides of the leaf to turn brown, you should supplement the rainfall with manual watering. The roots are constricted and unable to reach out for water. This cause of brown leaf tips happens most frequently with container grown plants, but can happen with plants in the ground in particularly heavy clay soils that may act like a container. Either increase watering or replant the plant so that the roots have more room to grow. The soil does not hold onto the water.
If you live in an area that has sandy soil, the water may simply be draining away too fast and this may be causing brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with organic material which will hold onto the water better. In the meantime, increase the frequency of watering. The roots may be damaged. If the area where the plant is has been flooded by water or if the soil around the plant is too compacted, this can cause root damage. When the roots become damaged, there is not enough of a root system for the plant to properly take up enough water. In this case, correct the problem that is causing the root damage and then prune back the plant some to reduce its water needs while the root system recovers.
Another reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil. This can either be natural in the soil, such as from living close to the ocean, or this can happen through over fertilizing. If you live near a source of salt water, there will be very little you can do to correct the problem. If you suspect that you have over fertilized, reduce the amount of fertilizer and increase the amount of watering for a few weeks to help wash the salt away. While brown leaf tips and brown edges on leaves can be alarming, it is, for the most part, an easily fixed problem.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
A range of fungal and bacterial diseases affect succulent plants, some of which can collapse and die very rapidly, once the disease has taken a hold. The world abounds with fungal spores, which are opportunists, waiting for the correct conditions for germination. Generally, fungi do not affect cactus and succulent plant collections because of the relatively dry conditions used by most growers. Damp conditions are a universal requirement for activation of fungal spores, and many of the problems with fungal infection of succulent plants arise from failure of excessive watering or condensation to evaporate, because of unexpected or seasonal cold weather. Damage from insect pests, which penetrate the plant's epidermis to feed on sap, may provide a route for entry of fungi into the nutrient-rich inner tissues. Hence, unexpected collapse of a plant is often the final symptom of a mealy bug infestation which has gone unnoticed. On the other hand, some fungi provide their own mechanisms for penetrating the epidermis.
Seedlings are especially susceptible to fungal attack of the lower stem which causes damping off. Once the seedling has wilted, it is usually too late to save it and preventative measure are a better option.
Aloe rust
is a fungus that causes round brown or black spots on leaves of Aloes and Gasterias. It is of some importance in commercial cultivation of Aloe vera. The black colour is caused by oxidation of phenolic substances in the sap which seals of the affected area. Once formed, the black spots are permanent and can be unsightly, but do not usually spread. Fungi can be discouraged by spraying with a systemic fungicide, but prevention is the best option. Do not allow water to lie on the leaves for long and avoid excess damp in cool weather. Arrange for plenty of air circulation and sunlight.
Black or Sooty Mold
A ubiquitous fungus which is often seen on plants covered with honeydew from whitefly, mealy bugs etc or on plants with nectar-producing glands such as certain Ferocacti. Generally, sooty mould is more unsightly than harmful on otherwise healthy plants. However, it will attack seedlings following mechanical damage or excessively wet conditions and other weak or damaged plants.
Basal Stem Rot
Cold or damp conditions may lead to rotting of stems, often just around the soil level where damp soil may be in prolonged contact with the plants stem. The rotten tissues may go black or reddish brown depending on the plant and organism attacking it. If the stem is cut well above the rotten part, it may be possible to re-root or graft the healthy tissues and save the plant. Many people support the basal stems of difficult plants with a layer of grit above the potting medium, so that there will be little water retention against the stem in this critical region.
A range of brown or gray spots spots on leaves and corky brown marks on stems of are undoubtably due to fungal attack following damage or prolonged contact with drops of water. Others may reflect poor cultural conditions or the natural development of corky or woody stems as the plant matures. In many cases, fungal attack and poor culture are linked. Improving ventilation, temperature control, watering and application of fertiliser may help to prevent all sorts of problems.
Growers of Asclepiads will be familiar with black spots developing on the stem which spread and develop into sunken patches of dead tissues. This fungal infection can spread to the whole plant unless the affected part is removed promptly or treated with fungicide. Usually this happens after overal-liberal water, perhaps where water droplets fail to evaporate because of unexpectedly cold conditions.
Control of Fungal Diseases
Once a plant has collapsed or the stems have started to become soft and rotten it is often too late to save it. However, an attempt may be made to save part of a valuable plant by cutting away the infected tissues with a clean knife, sterilised with methylated spirits. A wide margin of apparently sound tissue should be removed as the infection will almost certainly have spread further than is apparent. The remainder can be painted or dipped in a systemic fungicide such as Nimrod T or dusted with sulphur and rooted as a cutting or grafted onto a compatible stock.
Botrytis or damping off
This common cause of early loss of seedlings can be avoided by lightly spraying the potting mix with a systemic fungicide such as Benlate or Nimrod T. Spraying with a copper sulfate solution is a traditional remedy, but copper fungicides may accumulate in the soil with potential copper toxicity to plants. Any seedlings that become infected should be removed promptly before more spores are produced, the remaining seedlings sprayed with fungicide and surface moisture alllowed to evaporate.
Seedlings are especially susceptible to fungal attack of the lower stem which causes damping off. Once the seedling has wilted, it is usually too late to save it and preventative measure are a better option.
Aloe rust
is a fungus that causes round brown or black spots on leaves of Aloes and Gasterias. It is of some importance in commercial cultivation of Aloe vera. The black colour is caused by oxidation of phenolic substances in the sap which seals of the affected area. Once formed, the black spots are permanent and can be unsightly, but do not usually spread. Fungi can be discouraged by spraying with a systemic fungicide, but prevention is the best option. Do not allow water to lie on the leaves for long and avoid excess damp in cool weather. Arrange for plenty of air circulation and sunlight.
Black or Sooty Mold
A ubiquitous fungus which is often seen on plants covered with honeydew from whitefly, mealy bugs etc or on plants with nectar-producing glands such as certain Ferocacti. Generally, sooty mould is more unsightly than harmful on otherwise healthy plants. However, it will attack seedlings following mechanical damage or excessively wet conditions and other weak or damaged plants.
Basal Stem Rot
Cold or damp conditions may lead to rotting of stems, often just around the soil level where damp soil may be in prolonged contact with the plants stem. The rotten tissues may go black or reddish brown depending on the plant and organism attacking it. If the stem is cut well above the rotten part, it may be possible to re-root or graft the healthy tissues and save the plant. Many people support the basal stems of difficult plants with a layer of grit above the potting medium, so that there will be little water retention against the stem in this critical region.
A range of brown or gray spots spots on leaves and corky brown marks on stems of are undoubtably due to fungal attack following damage or prolonged contact with drops of water. Others may reflect poor cultural conditions or the natural development of corky or woody stems as the plant matures. In many cases, fungal attack and poor culture are linked. Improving ventilation, temperature control, watering and application of fertiliser may help to prevent all sorts of problems.
Growers of Asclepiads will be familiar with black spots developing on the stem which spread and develop into sunken patches of dead tissues. This fungal infection can spread to the whole plant unless the affected part is removed promptly or treated with fungicide. Usually this happens after overal-liberal water, perhaps where water droplets fail to evaporate because of unexpectedly cold conditions.
Control of Fungal Diseases
Once a plant has collapsed or the stems have started to become soft and rotten it is often too late to save it. However, an attempt may be made to save part of a valuable plant by cutting away the infected tissues with a clean knife, sterilised with methylated spirits. A wide margin of apparently sound tissue should be removed as the infection will almost certainly have spread further than is apparent. The remainder can be painted or dipped in a systemic fungicide such as Nimrod T or dusted with sulphur and rooted as a cutting or grafted onto a compatible stock.
Botrytis or damping off
This common cause of early loss of seedlings can be avoided by lightly spraying the potting mix with a systemic fungicide such as Benlate or Nimrod T. Spraying with a copper sulfate solution is a traditional remedy, but copper fungicides may accumulate in the soil with potential copper toxicity to plants. Any seedlings that become infected should be removed promptly before more spores are produced, the remaining seedlings sprayed with fungicide and surface moisture alllowed to evaporate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Nutrient deficiencies in plants are hard to spot and are often misdiagnosed. Plant deficiencies are often encouraged by a number of factors including poor soil, insect damage, too much fertilizer, poor drainage or disease. When nutrients such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are lacking, plants respond in a variety of ways—oftentimes in the leaves.
Leaf problems in plants that are deficient in nutrients or trace minerals are common and may include stunted growth, drying and discoloration. Nutritional deficiencies present differently in plants, and a proper diagnosis is critical in order to rectify the problem. One of the most commonly asked questions relates to having a plant with purple leaves, or leaves turning reddish purple in color.
Why Are Plant Leaves Turning Purple?
When you notice a plant with purple leaves rather than the normal green color, it is most likely due to a phosphorus deficiency. All plants need phosphorus (P) in order to create energy, sugars and nucleic acids. Young plants are more likely to display signs of phosphorus deficiency than older plants. If the soil is cool early in the growing season, a phosphorus deficiency may develop in some plants. The underside of marigold and tomato plant leaves will turn purple with too little phosphorus while other plants will be stunted or turn a dull dark-green color.
Leaves Turning Reddish Purple in Color
Leaves turning reddish purple in color is most often seen in corn crops. Corn with a phosphorus deficiency will have narrow, bluish green leaves that eventually turn reddish purple. This problem occurs early in the season, often due to cold and wet soil. Corn suffering from a lack of magnesium may also display a yellow streaking between the veins of lower leaves that turn red with time.
Other Causes for a Plant with Purple Leaves
If you have a plant with purple leaves, it may also be due to elevated levels of anthocyanin, which is a purple colored pigment. This pigment builds up when a plant becomes stressed and normal plant functions are interrupted. This problem can be very hard to diagnose as other factors can cause the pigment buildup such as cool temperatures, disease and drought.
Leaf problems in plants that are deficient in nutrients or trace minerals are common and may include stunted growth, drying and discoloration. Nutritional deficiencies present differently in plants, and a proper diagnosis is critical in order to rectify the problem. One of the most commonly asked questions relates to having a plant with purple leaves, or leaves turning reddish purple in color.
Why Are Plant Leaves Turning Purple?
When you notice a plant with purple leaves rather than the normal green color, it is most likely due to a phosphorus deficiency. All plants need phosphorus (P) in order to create energy, sugars and nucleic acids. Young plants are more likely to display signs of phosphorus deficiency than older plants. If the soil is cool early in the growing season, a phosphorus deficiency may develop in some plants. The underside of marigold and tomato plant leaves will turn purple with too little phosphorus while other plants will be stunted or turn a dull dark-green color.
Leaves Turning Reddish Purple in Color
Leaves turning reddish purple in color is most often seen in corn crops. Corn with a phosphorus deficiency will have narrow, bluish green leaves that eventually turn reddish purple. This problem occurs early in the season, often due to cold and wet soil. Corn suffering from a lack of magnesium may also display a yellow streaking between the veins of lower leaves that turn red with time.
Other Causes for a Plant with Purple Leaves
If you have a plant with purple leaves, it may also be due to elevated levels of anthocyanin, which is a purple colored pigment. This pigment builds up when a plant becomes stressed and normal plant functions are interrupted. This problem can be very hard to diagnose as other factors can cause the pigment buildup such as cool temperatures, disease and drought.
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