文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
A blood feeding external parasite of mammals, birds and reptiles, ticks are important vectors of disease causing agents. They attach firmly to their host, feed slowly and may go unnoticed for several days while feeding. As a result, ticks transmit the widest variety of pathogens of any blood sucking arthropod. Some human diseases of interest include Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever.
Adults (1/4 inch long) have eight legs and are reddish-brown with white or yellow irregular markings on their body. Females are slightly larger than males, and can grow as large as 1/2 inch long after a blood meal. To feed, they grab onto a host, secrete an anesthetic and painlessly burrow into the skin with their mouth parts. Bites can cause skin irritations or even allergic reactions in some people.
Note: Ticks are divided into two groups: hard and soft. Hard ticks have a shield on their backs and are tapered at the head end; they are the most easily recognized by people. Soft ticks lack the shield-like plate, have a blunt head end and look like pieces of bark or debris. Both groups are important vectors of disease.
Life Cycle
The widely distributed American dog tick overwinters in all stages, except as eggs. Adults are prevalent in the spring, and after obtaining a blood meal and mating, females deposit up to 4,000 eggs in large masses on the ground. Hatching occurs in 30 or more days, and the 6-legged larval stage crawls onto surrounding vegetation where it clings to any passing animals that rub against it. After a 3-12 day feeding period, larvae drop off and molt into 8-legged nymphs. After feeding on yet another host, nymphs again drop off and molt into young adults. The cycle may be completed during a period of a few weeks to a year or more.
Tick Control
Keep grass and weeds trimmed and remove wood piles to reduce harborage for tick hosts.
Whenever possible, stay out of pest infested areas, grassy pastures, prairies and wooded areas.
Restrict movement of your pets.
When entering infested areas, wear long-sleeved shirts, and long trousers with tight-fitting cuffs.
Wear light-colored clothing. Ticks are easier to see on a light background.
Use Herbal Pet Collars, or one of our other least-toxic products to protect dogs and cats.
Broadcast EcoSMART® Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscapes to eliminate or repel all kinds of problem pests.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Spray pet bedding and kennels with plant-based formulas specifically designed to keep these unhealthy nuisances at bay. Containing no harmful residues, they are SAFE to use around homes, children and pets.
Broad spectrum, organic neem oil disrupts the growth and development of pest insects and has repellent and anti-feedant properties. Best of all, it is non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
If pest populations become intolerable, spot treat problem areas with a fast-acting botanical insecticide such as Safer® Mosquito & Tick Killer. This natural spray persists for about two weeks and has less toxicity than commercial chemical pesticides.
Adults (1/4 inch long) have eight legs and are reddish-brown with white or yellow irregular markings on their body. Females are slightly larger than males, and can grow as large as 1/2 inch long after a blood meal. To feed, they grab onto a host, secrete an anesthetic and painlessly burrow into the skin with their mouth parts. Bites can cause skin irritations or even allergic reactions in some people.
Note: Ticks are divided into two groups: hard and soft. Hard ticks have a shield on their backs and are tapered at the head end; they are the most easily recognized by people. Soft ticks lack the shield-like plate, have a blunt head end and look like pieces of bark or debris. Both groups are important vectors of disease.
Life Cycle
The widely distributed American dog tick overwinters in all stages, except as eggs. Adults are prevalent in the spring, and after obtaining a blood meal and mating, females deposit up to 4,000 eggs in large masses on the ground. Hatching occurs in 30 or more days, and the 6-legged larval stage crawls onto surrounding vegetation where it clings to any passing animals that rub against it. After a 3-12 day feeding period, larvae drop off and molt into 8-legged nymphs. After feeding on yet another host, nymphs again drop off and molt into young adults. The cycle may be completed during a period of a few weeks to a year or more.
Tick Control
Keep grass and weeds trimmed and remove wood piles to reduce harborage for tick hosts.
Whenever possible, stay out of pest infested areas, grassy pastures, prairies and wooded areas.
Restrict movement of your pets.
When entering infested areas, wear long-sleeved shirts, and long trousers with tight-fitting cuffs.
Wear light-colored clothing. Ticks are easier to see on a light background.
Use Herbal Pet Collars, or one of our other least-toxic products to protect dogs and cats.
Broadcast EcoSMART® Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscapes to eliminate or repel all kinds of problem pests.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Spray pet bedding and kennels with plant-based formulas specifically designed to keep these unhealthy nuisances at bay. Containing no harmful residues, they are SAFE to use around homes, children and pets.
Broad spectrum, organic neem oil disrupts the growth and development of pest insects and has repellent and anti-feedant properties. Best of all, it is non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
If pest populations become intolerable, spot treat problem areas with a fast-acting botanical insecticide such as Safer® Mosquito & Tick Killer. This natural spray persists for about two weeks and has less toxicity than commercial chemical pesticides.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
There are more than 5,000 known species of rust on plants. Common rust (Phragmidium spp.) is a fungal disease that attacks roses, hollyhocks, snapdragons, daylilies, beans, tomatoes and lawns. It is most often found on mature plants where symptoms appear primarily on the surfaces of lower leaves.
Early on, look for white, slightly raised spots on the undersides of leaves and on the stems. After a short period of time, these spots become covered with reddish-orange spore masses. Later, leaf postules may turn yellow-green and eventually black. Severe infestations will deform and yellow leaves and cause leaf drop.
Rust diseases are favored by 4 to 8 hours of low light intensity, warm temperatures and moisture — humidity, dew or rain — followed by 8 to 16 hours of high light intensity, high temperatures and slow drying of leaf surfaces.
Black spores are visible on leaves and stems in fall and overwinter inside infected stems which are distinguished by dark, corky blotches at points of infection. The spores are spread by wind or by water splashing back up onto the foliage.
Treatment
Select rust-resistant plant varieties when available.
Pick off and destroy infected leaves and frequently rake under plants to remove all fallen debris.
Water in the early morning hours — avoiding overhead sprinklers — to give plants time to dry out during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep leaves dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Apply copper sprays or sulfur powders to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat every 7-10 days up to the day of harvest.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Prune or stake plants and remove weeds to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Burn or bag infected plants after the growing season (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
Early on, look for white, slightly raised spots on the undersides of leaves and on the stems. After a short period of time, these spots become covered with reddish-orange spore masses. Later, leaf postules may turn yellow-green and eventually black. Severe infestations will deform and yellow leaves and cause leaf drop.
Rust diseases are favored by 4 to 8 hours of low light intensity, warm temperatures and moisture — humidity, dew or rain — followed by 8 to 16 hours of high light intensity, high temperatures and slow drying of leaf surfaces.
Black spores are visible on leaves and stems in fall and overwinter inside infected stems which are distinguished by dark, corky blotches at points of infection. The spores are spread by wind or by water splashing back up onto the foliage.
Treatment
Select rust-resistant plant varieties when available.
Pick off and destroy infected leaves and frequently rake under plants to remove all fallen debris.
Water in the early morning hours — avoiding overhead sprinklers — to give plants time to dry out during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep leaves dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Apply copper sprays or sulfur powders to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat every 7-10 days up to the day of harvest.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Prune or stake plants and remove weeds to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Burn or bag infected plants after the growing season (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on many plants and easily recognized, powdery mildew is a fungal disease found throughout the United States. It is caused by a variety of closely related fungal species, each with a limited host range. (The fungi attacking your roses are unlikely to spread to your lilacs). Low soil moisture combined with high humidity levels at the plant surface favors this disease.
Symptoms usually appear later in the growing season on outdoor plants. Powdery mildew starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause leaves to curl, exposing the lower leaf surface. Infected leaves become covered with a white to gray powdery growth, usually on the upper surface; unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and may never open. Leaves of severely infected plants turn brown and drop. The disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature leaves are usually not affected.
Fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and other plant debris. Wind, water and insects transmit the spores to other nearby plants. Zucchini, beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, roses and zinnia are especially susceptible.
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars in sunny locations whenever possible.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Remove diseased foliage from the plant and clean up fallen debris on the ground.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Wash foliage occasionally to disrupt the daily spore-releasing cycle. Neem oil and PM Wash, used on a 7 day schedule, will prevent fungal attack on plants grown indoors.
Water in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses will help keep the foliage dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Destroy all plant debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following approved organic fungicides:
Apply sulfur or copper-based fungicides to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat at 7-10 day intervals up to the day of harvest.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. Monterey® BI-CARB is a similar product containing micro-encapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. Mix 4 tsps in 2 gallons of water to thoroughly cover foliage.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
SNS 244 and Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide are made from 100% pure, food-grade ingredients that work fast to kill existing plant diseases and prevent new fungal problems from starting.
Indoor growers may want to consider using a Sulfur Burner/ Vaporizer which turns sulfur prills into a fine dust and changes the pH of leaf surfaces. Fungal spores and mold can’t get established on this plant coating. As an added benefit, studies have shown that this dust will eliminate spider mites.
Symptoms usually appear later in the growing season on outdoor plants. Powdery mildew starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause leaves to curl, exposing the lower leaf surface. Infected leaves become covered with a white to gray powdery growth, usually on the upper surface; unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and may never open. Leaves of severely infected plants turn brown and drop. The disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature leaves are usually not affected.
Fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and other plant debris. Wind, water and insects transmit the spores to other nearby plants. Zucchini, beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, roses and zinnia are especially susceptible.
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars in sunny locations whenever possible.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Remove diseased foliage from the plant and clean up fallen debris on the ground.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Wash foliage occasionally to disrupt the daily spore-releasing cycle. Neem oil and PM Wash, used on a 7 day schedule, will prevent fungal attack on plants grown indoors.
Water in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses will help keep the foliage dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Destroy all plant debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following approved organic fungicides:
Apply sulfur or copper-based fungicides to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat at 7-10 day intervals up to the day of harvest.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. Monterey® BI-CARB is a similar product containing micro-encapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. Mix 4 tsps in 2 gallons of water to thoroughly cover foliage.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
SNS 244 and Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide are made from 100% pure, food-grade ingredients that work fast to kill existing plant diseases and prevent new fungal problems from starting.
Indoor growers may want to consider using a Sulfur Burner/ Vaporizer which turns sulfur prills into a fine dust and changes the pH of leaf surfaces. Fungal spores and mold can’t get established on this plant coating. As an added benefit, studies have shown that this dust will eliminate spider mites.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
A common tuber disease that occurs wherever potatoes are grown. Potato scab symptoms include dark brown, pithy patches that may be raised and “warty.” These lesions can affect just a small portion of the tuber surface, or may completely cover it. Sometimes the ridged portions are in broken concentric rings.
Potato scab is caused by a bacterium-like organism, Streptomyces scabies, that overwinters in soil and fallen leaves. The organism can survive indefinitely in slightly alkaline soils, but is relatively scarce in highly acid soils. It is transmitted to plants by infected seed tubers, wind and water. The organism is also spread in fresh manure, since it can survive passage through the digestive tract of animals. (Learn how to grow organic potatoes here.)
S. scabies enters through pores (lenticels) in stems, through wounds and directly through the skin of young tubers. In addition to potatoes, other crops infected include beets, radish, turnip, carrot, rutabaga and parsnips. This should be kept in mind when considering a crop rotation schedule.
Note: S. scabies can survive in the soil for many years in the absence of potato.
Treatment
The following control measures have all been proven effective against scab in potatoes. However, in most cases a combination of these techniques will be required.
Plant certified, disease-free seed potatoes and resistant varieties whenever possible. We suggest using the russet-skinned varieties since they have more resistance to the disease.
Rotate root crops by planting in alternate locations to limit the disease.
Potato scab is most prevalent in dry, alkaline soils. Decrease soil pH by adding elemental sulfur. The disease is controlled or greatly suppressed at soil pH levels of 5.2 or lower. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
Tilling in a cover crop — mustard, canola, alfalfa — prior to planting potatoes will help reduce infection.
Some growers report success spreading agricultural gypsum prior to planting at a rate of 25 lbs per 2,000 sq ft. This will raise the calcium content of your soil and help build strong cell walls in plants. (Note: S. scabies disrupts the development of cell walls resulting in lesions.)
Adequate irrigation during early tuber development may have a dramatic effect on common scab infection, but you will need to keep the soil damp for 2-6 weeks. This technique is effective because high soil moisture promotes growth of a bacteria that can crowd out S. scabies on the potato surface.
Do NOT overwater.
Potato scab is caused by a bacterium-like organism, Streptomyces scabies, that overwinters in soil and fallen leaves. The organism can survive indefinitely in slightly alkaline soils, but is relatively scarce in highly acid soils. It is transmitted to plants by infected seed tubers, wind and water. The organism is also spread in fresh manure, since it can survive passage through the digestive tract of animals. (Learn how to grow organic potatoes here.)
S. scabies enters through pores (lenticels) in stems, through wounds and directly through the skin of young tubers. In addition to potatoes, other crops infected include beets, radish, turnip, carrot, rutabaga and parsnips. This should be kept in mind when considering a crop rotation schedule.
Note: S. scabies can survive in the soil for many years in the absence of potato.
Treatment
The following control measures have all been proven effective against scab in potatoes. However, in most cases a combination of these techniques will be required.
Plant certified, disease-free seed potatoes and resistant varieties whenever possible. We suggest using the russet-skinned varieties since they have more resistance to the disease.
Rotate root crops by planting in alternate locations to limit the disease.
Potato scab is most prevalent in dry, alkaline soils. Decrease soil pH by adding elemental sulfur. The disease is controlled or greatly suppressed at soil pH levels of 5.2 or lower. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
Tilling in a cover crop — mustard, canola, alfalfa — prior to planting potatoes will help reduce infection.
Some growers report success spreading agricultural gypsum prior to planting at a rate of 25 lbs per 2,000 sq ft. This will raise the calcium content of your soil and help build strong cell walls in plants. (Note: S. scabies disrupts the development of cell walls resulting in lesions.)
Adequate irrigation during early tuber development may have a dramatic effect on common scab infection, but you will need to keep the soil damp for 2-6 weeks. This technique is effective because high soil moisture promotes growth of a bacteria that can crowd out S. scabies on the potato surface.
Do NOT overwater.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
A fungal disease that affects peaches and nectarines, leaf curl (Taphrina deformans) is one of the most common disease problems found in backyard orchards. Symptoms appears in spring as reddish areas on developing leaves. These areas become thick and puckered causing leaves to curl and distort. When severe, leaf curl can substantially reduce fruit production.
Disease fungi overwinter as spores (conidia) underneath bark, around buds and in other protected areas. Early in the growing season, during cool, wet spring weather, the spores infect new leaves as they emerge from the buds. Later, the fungus produces great numbers of new spores which are splashed or blown from tree to tree.
Leaf curl is most active at temperatures between 50-70˚F, but can occur at relatively low temperatures. In fact, cool weather is thought to extend the infection period because new leaves are growing slowly. Wet weather is necessary for infection.
Treatment
Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
Leaf curl can be controlled by applying sulfur or copper-based fungicides that are labeled for use on peaches and nectarines. Spray the entire tree after 90% of the leaves have dropped in the fall and again in the early spring, just before the buds open. For best results, trees should be sprayed to the point of runoff or until they start dripping.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
Keep the ground beneath the trees raked up and clean, especially during winter months.
Prune and destroy infected plant parts as they appear.
If disease problems are severe, maintain tree health and vigor by cutting back more fruit than normal, watering regularly (avoiding wetting the leaves if possible) and apply an organic fertilizers high in nitrogen.
Disease fungi overwinter as spores (conidia) underneath bark, around buds and in other protected areas. Early in the growing season, during cool, wet spring weather, the spores infect new leaves as they emerge from the buds. Later, the fungus produces great numbers of new spores which are splashed or blown from tree to tree.
Leaf curl is most active at temperatures between 50-70˚F, but can occur at relatively low temperatures. In fact, cool weather is thought to extend the infection period because new leaves are growing slowly. Wet weather is necessary for infection.
Treatment
Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
Leaf curl can be controlled by applying sulfur or copper-based fungicides that are labeled for use on peaches and nectarines. Spray the entire tree after 90% of the leaves have dropped in the fall and again in the early spring, just before the buds open. For best results, trees should be sprayed to the point of runoff or until they start dripping.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
Keep the ground beneath the trees raked up and clean, especially during winter months.
Prune and destroy infected plant parts as they appear.
If disease problems are severe, maintain tree health and vigor by cutting back more fruit than normal, watering regularly (avoiding wetting the leaves if possible) and apply an organic fertilizers high in nitrogen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Found on tomato and potato plants, late blight is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans and is common throughout the United States. True to its name, the disease occurs later in the growing season with symptoms often not appearing until after blossom.
Late blight first appears on the lower, older leaves as water-soaked, gray-green spots. As the disease matures, these spots darken and a white fungal growth forms on the undersides. Eventually the entire plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Unlike other fungal diseases, this plant problem does not overwinter in the soil or on garden trash. Instead the spores are introduced by infected tubers, transplants or seeds. Wind will also carry the disease from nearby gardens. Warm temperatures (70-80˚F) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread.
Note: Late Blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine (1845-1849).
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars when available.
Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following fungicides:
Apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Used as a foliar spray, Organocide® Plant Doctor will work its way through the entire plant to prevent fungal problems from occurring and attack existing many problems. Mix 2 tsp/ gallon of water and spray at transplant or when direct seeded crops are at 2-4 true leaf, then at 1-2 week intervals as required to control disease.
Safely treat fungal problems with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Monterey® All Natural Disease Control is a ready-to-use blend of naturally occurring ingredients that control most plant foliar diseases. All stages of the disease is controlled, but applying before infestation gives the best results.
Late blight first appears on the lower, older leaves as water-soaked, gray-green spots. As the disease matures, these spots darken and a white fungal growth forms on the undersides. Eventually the entire plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Unlike other fungal diseases, this plant problem does not overwinter in the soil or on garden trash. Instead the spores are introduced by infected tubers, transplants or seeds. Wind will also carry the disease from nearby gardens. Warm temperatures (70-80˚F) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread.
Note: Late Blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine (1845-1849).
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars when available.
Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following fungicides:
Apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Used as a foliar spray, Organocide® Plant Doctor will work its way through the entire plant to prevent fungal problems from occurring and attack existing many problems. Mix 2 tsp/ gallon of water and spray at transplant or when direct seeded crops are at 2-4 true leaf, then at 1-2 week intervals as required to control disease.
Safely treat fungal problems with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Monterey® All Natural Disease Control is a ready-to-use blend of naturally occurring ingredients that control most plant foliar diseases. All stages of the disease is controlled, but applying before infestation gives the best results.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Found on a wide range of plants (too many to mention), gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) is a fungal disease that travels quickly through gardens, especially during damp, cool to mild weather. Disease symptoms appear as grayish colored soft, mushy spots on leaves, stems, flowers and on produce. Spots may become covered with a coating of gray fungus spores, especially if humidity is high. Fruit or plants shrivel and rot and often develop black, stone-like sclerotia — a compact mass of hardened fungal filaments — under rotted parts.
Gray mold is often found near the soil surface or in the densest areas of the plant canopy. It develops on wilted flowers first, then spreads quickly to other parts of the plant. The disease may also occur in storage areas causing rotting of harvested fruits and vegetables.
Botrytis blight overwinters on plants, in or on the soil, and as sclerotia. Spores develop when conditions are optimal, and are moved by wind or splashing water onto blossoms or young leaves, where they germinate and enter the plant. Spores require cool temperatures (45-60 F.) and high humidity (93% and above) to germinate. Germinating spores rarely penetrate green, healthy tissue directly, but can enter through wounds on growing plants. Cuttings are particularly susceptible to infection.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation between plants. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
If growing indoors use a small clip-on fan to improve air flow.
Keep the soil under plants clean and rake up any fallen debris.
Add a good amount of organic compost or mulch under plants. Mulches will prevent the fungal spores from splashing back up onto flowers and leaves.
Water in the early morning hours, or use a soaker hose, to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Do not compost infected plant leaves or stems, and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Copper-Soap fungicides will help by protecting plants from disease spores. Apply at the start of flowering and continue every 7-10 days until harvest. Fungicidal sprays are especially warranted when weather forecasts predict a long period of cool, wet weather.
Safely treat most fungal diseases, including Botrytis blight, with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Mycostop, a biological fungicide approved for organic use, has shown suppression of the disease. Direct spray (5 gm/ 50 liters of water) to susceptible leaves, flowers and fruits to point of run-off. Apply every 2-3 weeks, or as needed depending on disease pressure.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. For best protection, repeat at 1-2 week intervals until conditions are no longer favorable for disease development.
Gray mold is often found near the soil surface or in the densest areas of the plant canopy. It develops on wilted flowers first, then spreads quickly to other parts of the plant. The disease may also occur in storage areas causing rotting of harvested fruits and vegetables.
Botrytis blight overwinters on plants, in or on the soil, and as sclerotia. Spores develop when conditions are optimal, and are moved by wind or splashing water onto blossoms or young leaves, where they germinate and enter the plant. Spores require cool temperatures (45-60 F.) and high humidity (93% and above) to germinate. Germinating spores rarely penetrate green, healthy tissue directly, but can enter through wounds on growing plants. Cuttings are particularly susceptible to infection.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation between plants. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
If growing indoors use a small clip-on fan to improve air flow.
Keep the soil under plants clean and rake up any fallen debris.
Add a good amount of organic compost or mulch under plants. Mulches will prevent the fungal spores from splashing back up onto flowers and leaves.
Water in the early morning hours, or use a soaker hose, to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Do not compost infected plant leaves or stems, and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Copper-Soap fungicides will help by protecting plants from disease spores. Apply at the start of flowering and continue every 7-10 days until harvest. Fungicidal sprays are especially warranted when weather forecasts predict a long period of cool, wet weather.
Safely treat most fungal diseases, including Botrytis blight, with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Mycostop, a biological fungicide approved for organic use, has shown suppression of the disease. Direct spray (5 gm/ 50 liters of water) to susceptible leaves, flowers and fruits to point of run-off. Apply every 2-3 weeks, or as needed depending on disease pressure.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. For best protection, repeat at 1-2 week intervals until conditions are no longer favorable for disease development.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Commonly found throughout the United States, Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne pathogen that attacks potato, tomato, eggplant and pepper plants. Disease fungi (Fusarium oxysporum) enter through the roots and interfere with the water conducting vessels of the plant. As the infection spreads up into the stems and leaves it restricts water flow causing the foliage to wilt and turn yellow.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Named for the scorched appearance of infected leaves, fire blight is a destructive bacterial disease (Erwinia amylovora) found on apples, pears and other members of the rose family. The disease enters the tree at the tips of the branches and then travels down the stems causing dieback. It attacks soft new growth first, so you would notice dieback at the top of the plant.
Most infected leaves and branch tips wilt rapidly turn brown or black; the leaves die but do not drop off. Trees will also develop reddish water soaked lesions on the bark. On warm days, these lesions ooze an orange-brown liquid. Fire blight kills blossoms, shoots, limbs and sometimes, the entire tree.
The bacteria overwinters in infected bark and is spread by splashing rain, dew, wind and insects. It spreads rapidly in moist, warm weather, especially during bloom.
Treatment
Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
Avoid heavy pruning or excess applications of nitrogen fertilizer, both of which encourage new growth.
Avoid planting close to wild plants of hawthorn, apple or pear.
As soon as fire blight is discovered, prune off infected branches 1 foot below the diseased sections and burn them to prevent further infection. Dip pruning shears into a 10% alcohol or bleach solution between each cut to avoid transmitting the disease from one branch to another.
Early applications of liquid copper are effective against this plant problem. Mix 0.5 to 2.0 oz per gallon of water and apply at silver tip and bud break — repeat at 3 to 5 day intervals up to petal fall. Use the lower rate if disease pressure is light and the higher rate when conditions favor heavy disease pressure.
Bacterial spread can be reduced by applications of products that contain Streptomyces lydicus as the active ingredient. To obtain best disease control, applications should be made at the start of the bloom period and every five to seven days thereafter.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
The systemic action of Organocide® Plant Doctor moves throughout the entire plant to treat most common disease problems. Mix 2-1/2 to 5 tsp per gallon of water and apply to foliage. Spray to run-off, as required for disease control.
Most infected leaves and branch tips wilt rapidly turn brown or black; the leaves die but do not drop off. Trees will also develop reddish water soaked lesions on the bark. On warm days, these lesions ooze an orange-brown liquid. Fire blight kills blossoms, shoots, limbs and sometimes, the entire tree.
The bacteria overwinters in infected bark and is spread by splashing rain, dew, wind and insects. It spreads rapidly in moist, warm weather, especially during bloom.
Treatment
Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
Avoid heavy pruning or excess applications of nitrogen fertilizer, both of which encourage new growth.
Avoid planting close to wild plants of hawthorn, apple or pear.
As soon as fire blight is discovered, prune off infected branches 1 foot below the diseased sections and burn them to prevent further infection. Dip pruning shears into a 10% alcohol or bleach solution between each cut to avoid transmitting the disease from one branch to another.
Early applications of liquid copper are effective against this plant problem. Mix 0.5 to 2.0 oz per gallon of water and apply at silver tip and bud break — repeat at 3 to 5 day intervals up to petal fall. Use the lower rate if disease pressure is light and the higher rate when conditions favor heavy disease pressure.
Bacterial spread can be reduced by applications of products that contain Streptomyces lydicus as the active ingredient. To obtain best disease control, applications should be made at the start of the bloom period and every five to seven days thereafter.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
The systemic action of Organocide® Plant Doctor moves throughout the entire plant to treat most common disease problems. Mix 2-1/2 to 5 tsp per gallon of water and apply to foliage. Spray to run-off, as required for disease control.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
A soil-borne fungal disease that affects seeds and new seedlings, damping off usually refers to the rotting of stem and root tissues at and below the soil surface. In most cases, infected plants will germinate and come up fine, but within a few days they become water-soaked and mushy, fall over at the base and die.
Several fungi can cause decay of seeds and seedlings including species of rhizoctonia, fusarium and phytophthora. However, species of the soil fungus pythium are most often the culprit. Damping off typically occurs when old seed is planted in cold, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage. High humidity levels, rich potting soils and planting too deeply will also encourage its growth.
Fungal spores live in the soil and are primarily a problem in seed beds. They can be transported on garden tools and in garden soils taken into the house or greenhouse.
Note: Older plants are rarely killed by damping off primarily because the production of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.
Treatment
There is no cure for plants that already have damping off. However, you can easily prevent the problem by providing good air circulation. A small fan or simply cracking the lid of the germination tray will suffice. The biological fungicide Mycostop may also be used as a seed treatment to prevent seed or soil-borne diseases. Other steps for preventing damping off include the following:
When starting seeds indoors, use good organic potting soil or sterilize your own potting soil in an oven.
Make sure your seed starter mix is light and fast-draining.
Plant seedlings so that the soil surface is near the top of the container to insure proper air circulation.
Sow seeds thinly to prevent over crowding which can lead to humid, moist conditions.
Seedling trays that provide water from below are preferable to overhead watering.
Never water past noon so that the soil surface and the plants are dry by evening.
Avoid overwatering tender seedlings.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of disease problems. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack many fungal problems, including pythium, fusarium and root rot.
Several fungi can cause decay of seeds and seedlings including species of rhizoctonia, fusarium and phytophthora. However, species of the soil fungus pythium are most often the culprit. Damping off typically occurs when old seed is planted in cold, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage. High humidity levels, rich potting soils and planting too deeply will also encourage its growth.
Fungal spores live in the soil and are primarily a problem in seed beds. They can be transported on garden tools and in garden soils taken into the house or greenhouse.
Note: Older plants are rarely killed by damping off primarily because the production of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.
Treatment
There is no cure for plants that already have damping off. However, you can easily prevent the problem by providing good air circulation. A small fan or simply cracking the lid of the germination tray will suffice. The biological fungicide Mycostop may also be used as a seed treatment to prevent seed or soil-borne diseases. Other steps for preventing damping off include the following:
When starting seeds indoors, use good organic potting soil or sterilize your own potting soil in an oven.
Make sure your seed starter mix is light and fast-draining.
Plant seedlings so that the soil surface is near the top of the container to insure proper air circulation.
Sow seeds thinly to prevent over crowding which can lead to humid, moist conditions.
Seedling trays that provide water from below are preferable to overhead watering.
Never water past noon so that the soil surface and the plants are dry by evening.
Avoid overwatering tender seedlings.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of disease problems. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack many fungal problems, including pythium, fusarium and root rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Crown gall is a common plant disease caused by the soil-borne bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens. It is found throughout the world and occurs on woody shrubs and herbaceous plants including grapes, raspberries, blackberries and roses.
Crown gall symptoms include round, wart-like growths — 2 inches or larger in diameter — that appear at or just above the soil line, or on lower branches and stems. Plants with several galls may be unable to move water and nutrients up the trunk and become weakened, stunted and unproductive. Young plants can be killed by developing gall tissue.
The bacteria responsible for crown gall can persist in the soil for many years and are released when galls become saturated with moisture or as older galls decompose. Susceptible plants are infected through fresh wounds or abrasions, many of which are a result of pruning, freeze injury, soil insects, cultivation and other factors that may damage plants. Nursery stock is often infected through grafting and budding scars.
Treatment
Select resistant cultivars when possible and purchase plants from a reputable nursery.
Do not buy plants that shows signs of swelling or galling.
When caring for susceptible plants, avoid injury or pruning wounds that may come in contact with the soil.
Use Tree Wrap to protect against string trimmer damage and keep your garden tools clean.
Provide winter protection with natural burlap so bark does not crack.
In many cases, existing galls can be removed with a sharp pruning knife. Destroy the infected plant tissue and treat the wound with pruning sealer. If the plant does not recover, remove and destroy it.
Crown gall symptoms include round, wart-like growths — 2 inches or larger in diameter — that appear at or just above the soil line, or on lower branches and stems. Plants with several galls may be unable to move water and nutrients up the trunk and become weakened, stunted and unproductive. Young plants can be killed by developing gall tissue.
The bacteria responsible for crown gall can persist in the soil for many years and are released when galls become saturated with moisture or as older galls decompose. Susceptible plants are infected through fresh wounds or abrasions, many of which are a result of pruning, freeze injury, soil insects, cultivation and other factors that may damage plants. Nursery stock is often infected through grafting and budding scars.
Treatment
Select resistant cultivars when possible and purchase plants from a reputable nursery.
Do not buy plants that shows signs of swelling or galling.
When caring for susceptible plants, avoid injury or pruning wounds that may come in contact with the soil.
Use Tree Wrap to protect against string trimmer damage and keep your garden tools clean.
Provide winter protection with natural burlap so bark does not crack.
In many cases, existing galls can be removed with a sharp pruning knife. Destroy the infected plant tissue and treat the wound with pruning sealer. If the plant does not recover, remove and destroy it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Affecting most brassica crops (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), club root is a serious plant disease in North American home gardens. It is caused by the soil-borne fungus Plasmodiophora brassicae which infects susceptible plants through root hairs. Diseased roots become swollen, misshapen and deformed (clubbed) often cracking and rotting. As a result, plants have difficulty absorbing water and nutrients properly.
Plants often grow poorly and wilt during the heat of the day; plants often revive during cool nights. Outer leaves may turn yellow, purple or brown. Club root will reduce yields and can cause total crop failure.
Fungal spores can be spread by wind, water and garden tools. Disease development can occur over a wide range of conditions, but is favored by excessive moisture, low soil pH and soil temperatures between 64 and 77˚F. Spores can survive in the soil for as many as 10 years.
Treatment
Fungicides will NOT treat this soil-dwelling micro-organism.
Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
Try to prevent the occurrence of this disease by keeping a clean garden and rotating crops.
Keep in mind that the disease spores can persist in the soil for up to 20 years. If club root is present you may want to solarize the soil.*
Control susceptible weeds — mustard, radish, shepherd’s purse — that may be infected to reduce potential buildup of the disease.
Carefully remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Raise your soil’s pH to a more alkaline 7.2 by mixing oyster shell or dolomite lime into your garden in the fall. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
* To solarize your soil, you must leave a clear plastic tarp on the soil surface for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Soil solarization will reduce or eliminate many soil inhabiting pests including nematodes, fungi, insects, weeds and weed seeds.
Plants often grow poorly and wilt during the heat of the day; plants often revive during cool nights. Outer leaves may turn yellow, purple or brown. Club root will reduce yields and can cause total crop failure.
Fungal spores can be spread by wind, water and garden tools. Disease development can occur over a wide range of conditions, but is favored by excessive moisture, low soil pH and soil temperatures between 64 and 77˚F. Spores can survive in the soil for as many as 10 years.
Treatment
Fungicides will NOT treat this soil-dwelling micro-organism.
Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
Try to prevent the occurrence of this disease by keeping a clean garden and rotating crops.
Keep in mind that the disease spores can persist in the soil for up to 20 years. If club root is present you may want to solarize the soil.*
Control susceptible weeds — mustard, radish, shepherd’s purse — that may be infected to reduce potential buildup of the disease.
Carefully remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Raise your soil’s pH to a more alkaline 7.2 by mixing oyster shell or dolomite lime into your garden in the fall. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
* To solarize your soil, you must leave a clear plastic tarp on the soil surface for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Soil solarization will reduce or eliminate many soil inhabiting pests including nematodes, fungi, insects, weeds and weed seeds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Cedar apple rust (Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae) is a fungal disease that requires juniper plants to complete its complicated two year life-cycle. Spores overwinter as a reddish-brown gall on young twigs of various juniper species. In early spring, during wet weather, these galls swell and bright orange masses of spores are blown by the wind where they infect susceptible apple and crab-apple trees. The spores that develop on these trees will only infect junipers the following year. From year to year, the disease must pass from junipers to apples to junipers again; it cannot spread between apple trees.
On apple and crab-apple trees, look for pale yellow pinhead sized spots on the upper surface of the leaves shortly after bloom. These gradually enlarge to bright orange-yellow spots which make the disease easy to identify. Orange spots may develop on the fruit as well. Heavily infected leaves may drop prematurely.
Treatment
Choose resistant cultivars when available.
Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves and other debris from under trees.
Remove galls from infected junipers. In some cases, juniper plants should be removed entirely.
Apply preventative, disease-fighting fungicides labeled for use on apples weekly, starting with bud break, to protect trees from spores being released by the juniper host. This occurs only once per year, so additional applications after this springtime spread are not necessary.
On juniper, rust can be controlled by spraying plants with a copper solution (0.5 to 2.0 oz/ gallon of water) at least four times between late August and late October.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Contact your local Agricultural Extension office for other possible solutions in your area.
On apple and crab-apple trees, look for pale yellow pinhead sized spots on the upper surface of the leaves shortly after bloom. These gradually enlarge to bright orange-yellow spots which make the disease easy to identify. Orange spots may develop on the fruit as well. Heavily infected leaves may drop prematurely.
Treatment
Choose resistant cultivars when available.
Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves and other debris from under trees.
Remove galls from infected junipers. In some cases, juniper plants should be removed entirely.
Apply preventative, disease-fighting fungicides labeled for use on apples weekly, starting with bud break, to protect trees from spores being released by the juniper host. This occurs only once per year, so additional applications after this springtime spread are not necessary.
On juniper, rust can be controlled by spraying plants with a copper solution (0.5 to 2.0 oz/ gallon of water) at least four times between late August and late October.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Contact your local Agricultural Extension office for other possible solutions in your area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
The most common fungal disease affecting the blossoms and fruit of almonds, apricots, cherries, peaches and plums. Brown rot (Monilinia fructicola) overwinters in mummified fruit (on the tree and on the ground) and infected twigs.
The disease first infects blossoms in spring and grows back into the small branches to cause cankers that can kill stems. Large numbers of flower-bearing stems are killed when the disease is severe. Dead flowers often remain attached into the summer. Developing or mature fruits show circular or brown spots that spread rapidly over the surface and light gray masses of spores are produced on the rotted areas. Rotted tissue remains relatively firm and dry.
Brown rot spores are carried by wind, rain and insects to the open or unopened blossoms and young shoots. If water is present — either from rain, dew or watering — on the flower surface the spores can germinate and penetrate the plant. Disease development takes place over a wide temperature range and flowers can be infected from the time buds open until petals fall. Under favorable conditions, brown rot spreads quickly and an entire crop can be completely destroyed on the tree.
Treatment
Choose resistant varieties whenever possible.
Prompt removal and destruction of infected plant parts helps breaks the life cycle of the disease in individual trees and small orchards, and may be sufficient to keep brown rot below damaging levels.
It is important to rake up and remove any fallen fruit or debris from under trees.
Prune trees occasionally to improve air circulation. Also, water from below to keep from wetting blossoms, foliage and fruit.
Use Tanglefoot® Pruning Sealer to seal all cuts and wounds and protect against insects and disease organisms.
Ready to use copper fungicides or sulfur powders should be applied weekly to infected trees starting when the blossoms are just beginning to open and continuing throughout the growing season. If at all possible, time applications so that 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Apply as a foliar spray (1 tsp/ gallon of water) to combat this destructive stone fruit problem.
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
The disease first infects blossoms in spring and grows back into the small branches to cause cankers that can kill stems. Large numbers of flower-bearing stems are killed when the disease is severe. Dead flowers often remain attached into the summer. Developing or mature fruits show circular or brown spots that spread rapidly over the surface and light gray masses of spores are produced on the rotted areas. Rotted tissue remains relatively firm and dry.
Brown rot spores are carried by wind, rain and insects to the open or unopened blossoms and young shoots. If water is present — either from rain, dew or watering — on the flower surface the spores can germinate and penetrate the plant. Disease development takes place over a wide temperature range and flowers can be infected from the time buds open until petals fall. Under favorable conditions, brown rot spreads quickly and an entire crop can be completely destroyed on the tree.
Treatment
Choose resistant varieties whenever possible.
Prompt removal and destruction of infected plant parts helps breaks the life cycle of the disease in individual trees and small orchards, and may be sufficient to keep brown rot below damaging levels.
It is important to rake up and remove any fallen fruit or debris from under trees.
Prune trees occasionally to improve air circulation. Also, water from below to keep from wetting blossoms, foliage and fruit.
Use Tanglefoot® Pruning Sealer to seal all cuts and wounds and protect against insects and disease organisms.
Ready to use copper fungicides or sulfur powders should be applied weekly to infected trees starting when the blossoms are just beginning to open and continuing throughout the growing season. If at all possible, time applications so that 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Apply as a foliar spray (1 tsp/ gallon of water) to combat this destructive stone fruit problem.
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Widely distributed throughout the United States, bacterial canker is most common on cherries and plums, but may also affect apricots, peaches and many other kinds of stone fruits. Suspect this plant disease if sunken, water-soaked or “gummy” lesions form on the trunk or twigs. When trees begin active growth in the spring, a sour smelling sap may ooze from these wounded areas. The cankers become darker than the surrounding healthy bark, and the underlying tissue is reddish-brown to black and moist.
Note: If cankers girdle the branches or trunk, the leaves above the diseased area curl and turn yellow. Growth stops and the branch or tree will eventually die.
The bacterium that causes canker, Pseudomonas syringae, enters trees through injured bark or an existing wound, such as a pruning cut on a twig or branch. Frost damage in the spring may promote additional infections. Bacterial canker infections occur during fall, winter and early spring (during cool, wet weather) and are spread by rain or water, and pruning tools. The bacteria overwinter in active cankers, in infected buds and on the surface of infected and healthy trees and weeds.
Treatment
Prune flowering trees during blooming when wounds heal fastest.
Remove wilted or dead limbs well below infected areas.
Avoid pruning in early spring and fall when bacteria are most active.
Treat all pruning cuts immediately with Tanglefoot® Tree Pruning Sealer and make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment — one part bleach to 4 parts water — after each cut.
If using string trimmers around the base of trees avoid damaging bark with breathable Tree Wrap to prevent infection.
Brush bark with white latex paint diluted with water to reduce bark-damaging temperature fluctuations.
Research has shown that copper fungicides have some success against this stone fruit problem. However, results are inconsistent. We recommend using it as one part of a total management program.
Remove weeds and grass from around the base of young trees to improve air circulation and keep the trunk and crown dry.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Mix 1/3 to 3/4 oz per gallon of water and paint or spray over pruning wounds and surrounding areas.
Note: If cankers girdle the branches or trunk, the leaves above the diseased area curl and turn yellow. Growth stops and the branch or tree will eventually die.
The bacterium that causes canker, Pseudomonas syringae, enters trees through injured bark or an existing wound, such as a pruning cut on a twig or branch. Frost damage in the spring may promote additional infections. Bacterial canker infections occur during fall, winter and early spring (during cool, wet weather) and are spread by rain or water, and pruning tools. The bacteria overwinter in active cankers, in infected buds and on the surface of infected and healthy trees and weeds.
Treatment
Prune flowering trees during blooming when wounds heal fastest.
Remove wilted or dead limbs well below infected areas.
Avoid pruning in early spring and fall when bacteria are most active.
Treat all pruning cuts immediately with Tanglefoot® Tree Pruning Sealer and make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment — one part bleach to 4 parts water — after each cut.
If using string trimmers around the base of trees avoid damaging bark with breathable Tree Wrap to prevent infection.
Brush bark with white latex paint diluted with water to reduce bark-damaging temperature fluctuations.
Research has shown that copper fungicides have some success against this stone fruit problem. However, results are inconsistent. We recommend using it as one part of a total management program.
Remove weeds and grass from around the base of young trees to improve air circulation and keep the trunk and crown dry.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Mix 1/3 to 3/4 oz per gallon of water and paint or spray over pruning wounds and surrounding areas.
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