文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Crown canker is a fungal disease that attacks flowering dogwood trees. The disease, also known as collar rot, is caused by the pathogen Phytophthora cactorum. It can kill the trees it attacks or can leave them vulnerable to lethal attack by other pathogens. For more information on crown canker on dogwood trees, read on.
Dogwood Tree Diseases
Dogwood trees suffer from a variety of diseases and conditions, most of which result in only cosmetic damage. Some are caused by improper care, such as water stress, resulting from inadequate irrigation during dry periods. Other avoidable diseases include leafspot and sun scorch, which occur when this understory tree is planted in full sun.
However, two dogwood tree diseases are potentially lethal to the trees. Both are canker diseases. One, dogwood anthracnose canker, kills leaves, twigs and branches, starting in the lowest branches. It often kills the tree within three to five years.
The other deadly canker is known as crown canker of dogwood. Crown canker on dogwood trees is the most serious of the dogwood tree diseases in the eastern United States. It is caused by a canker that, over several years, girdles the tree and kills it. What are the first visible symptoms of crown canker on dogwood trees? You may not see the canker immediately on an infected tree. Look for undersized leaves of a lighter color than normal on a tree that appears stressed. Over time, twigs and branches die on one side of the tree as the disease spreads.
Dogwood Crown Canker Treatment
If you take steps to prevent dogwood tree bark problems, especially wounds, you are one step ahead of the game. Prevention of wounds is easier than dogwood crown canker treatment. As with many other canker diseases, crown canker of dogwood often enters through wounds on the base of the tree. Any dogwood tree bark problems that cause a break in the bark can allow in the disease. The most important step in dogwood crown canker treatment is prevention. Take care not to wound the tree with garden tools when you are transplanting it, or lawn mowers or weed whackers after it is planted. Insects or animals can also wound the tree bark and allow the disease to enter.
Once the fungus has infected a large section of the dogwood’s base, you can do nothing to save the tree. However, if only a small area is diseased, you can try to stop its spread by cutting out the canker, removing all discolored bark and sapwood and some 5 cm of healthy bark. Use a sharp knife to perform this excision. Protect the new wound from infections by painting the area with orange shellac. Use an asphalt-base wound paint on the exposed heartwood. If the tree dies anyway, don’t replace it with another dogwood.
Dogwood Tree Diseases
Dogwood trees suffer from a variety of diseases and conditions, most of which result in only cosmetic damage. Some are caused by improper care, such as water stress, resulting from inadequate irrigation during dry periods. Other avoidable diseases include leafspot and sun scorch, which occur when this understory tree is planted in full sun.
However, two dogwood tree diseases are potentially lethal to the trees. Both are canker diseases. One, dogwood anthracnose canker, kills leaves, twigs and branches, starting in the lowest branches. It often kills the tree within three to five years.
The other deadly canker is known as crown canker of dogwood. Crown canker on dogwood trees is the most serious of the dogwood tree diseases in the eastern United States. It is caused by a canker that, over several years, girdles the tree and kills it. What are the first visible symptoms of crown canker on dogwood trees? You may not see the canker immediately on an infected tree. Look for undersized leaves of a lighter color than normal on a tree that appears stressed. Over time, twigs and branches die on one side of the tree as the disease spreads.
Dogwood Crown Canker Treatment
If you take steps to prevent dogwood tree bark problems, especially wounds, you are one step ahead of the game. Prevention of wounds is easier than dogwood crown canker treatment. As with many other canker diseases, crown canker of dogwood often enters through wounds on the base of the tree. Any dogwood tree bark problems that cause a break in the bark can allow in the disease. The most important step in dogwood crown canker treatment is prevention. Take care not to wound the tree with garden tools when you are transplanting it, or lawn mowers or weed whackers after it is planted. Insects or animals can also wound the tree bark and allow the disease to enter.
Once the fungus has infected a large section of the dogwood’s base, you can do nothing to save the tree. However, if only a small area is diseased, you can try to stop its spread by cutting out the canker, removing all discolored bark and sapwood and some 5 cm of healthy bark. Use a sharp knife to perform this excision. Protect the new wound from infections by painting the area with orange shellac. Use an asphalt-base wound paint on the exposed heartwood. If the tree dies anyway, don’t replace it with another dogwood.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Many native deciduous trees, like ash, can leak sap as a result of a common bacterial disease called slime flux or wetwood. Your ash tree may ooze sap from this infection, but you might also see, coming from the bark, foaming white material that does not look at all like sap. Read on for information about why an ash tree is dripping sap.
Why is My Tree Leaking Sap?
The bacterial infection called slime flux results when bacteria grows inside a wounded tree. Several types of bacteria are implicated, although botanists have not identified a main culprit. These bacteria generally attack an ill tree or one that is stressed from too little water. Usually, they enter through a wound in the bark.
Inside the tree, fermentation occurs from the bacteria and carbon dioxide gas is released. The pressure of the gas release pushes the ash tree’s sap through the wound. Sap spills out, making the outside of the tree trunk look wet. An ash tree leaking sap is very likely infected by these bacteria. This is especially true if there is foam mixed with the sap.
Why is My Ash Tree Oozing Foam?
The wet areas of sap on the outside of your ash tree become breeding grounds for other organisms. If alcohol is produced, the sap foams, bubbles and produces an awful smell. It looks like an ash tree oozing foam. You may see many different types of insects and insect larva coming to dine on the spilled sap and foam. Don’t be alarmed, since the infection cannot be spread to other trees by means of insects.
What to Do When an Ash Tree is Dripping Sap
The best offense in this case is a good defense. Your ash tree is far more likely to get infected by slime flux if it suffers from drought stress. In addition, the bacteria usually seeks a wound to enter. You can help the tree to avoid this infection by watering it regularly when the weather is dry. One good soaking every two weeks is probably enough. And take care not to wound the tree trunk when you are weed-whacking nearby. If, despite these precautions, your tree continues to ooze sap, there is little you can do to help the tree. Remember that most trees with slime flux do not die of it. A small infected wound is very likely to heal on its own.
Other Reasons My Ash Tree is Dripping Sap
Ash trees are often are infested by aphids or scales, both small but common insects. It is possible that the liquid you identify as sap is actually honeydew, a waste produce produced by aphids and scales. Honeydew looks like sap when it falls like rain from a tree badly infected with these bugs, coating bark and leaves. On the other hand, don’t feel you need to take action. If you leave aphids and scale alone, no grand harm comes to the tree and predator insects usually step up to the plate. Other insects affecting this tree, and possibly causing it to leak sap, include the emerald ash borer.
Why is My Tree Leaking Sap?
The bacterial infection called slime flux results when bacteria grows inside a wounded tree. Several types of bacteria are implicated, although botanists have not identified a main culprit. These bacteria generally attack an ill tree or one that is stressed from too little water. Usually, they enter through a wound in the bark.
Inside the tree, fermentation occurs from the bacteria and carbon dioxide gas is released. The pressure of the gas release pushes the ash tree’s sap through the wound. Sap spills out, making the outside of the tree trunk look wet. An ash tree leaking sap is very likely infected by these bacteria. This is especially true if there is foam mixed with the sap.
Why is My Ash Tree Oozing Foam?
The wet areas of sap on the outside of your ash tree become breeding grounds for other organisms. If alcohol is produced, the sap foams, bubbles and produces an awful smell. It looks like an ash tree oozing foam. You may see many different types of insects and insect larva coming to dine on the spilled sap and foam. Don’t be alarmed, since the infection cannot be spread to other trees by means of insects.
What to Do When an Ash Tree is Dripping Sap
The best offense in this case is a good defense. Your ash tree is far more likely to get infected by slime flux if it suffers from drought stress. In addition, the bacteria usually seeks a wound to enter. You can help the tree to avoid this infection by watering it regularly when the weather is dry. One good soaking every two weeks is probably enough. And take care not to wound the tree trunk when you are weed-whacking nearby. If, despite these precautions, your tree continues to ooze sap, there is little you can do to help the tree. Remember that most trees with slime flux do not die of it. A small infected wound is very likely to heal on its own.
Other Reasons My Ash Tree is Dripping Sap
Ash trees are often are infested by aphids or scales, both small but common insects. It is possible that the liquid you identify as sap is actually honeydew, a waste produce produced by aphids and scales. Honeydew looks like sap when it falls like rain from a tree badly infected with these bugs, coating bark and leaves. On the other hand, don’t feel you need to take action. If you leave aphids and scale alone, no grand harm comes to the tree and predator insects usually step up to the plate. Other insects affecting this tree, and possibly causing it to leak sap, include the emerald ash borer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ash yellows is a devastating disease of ash trees and related plants. It can infect lilacs as well. Find out how to recognize the disease and what you can do to prevent it in this article.
What is Ash Yellows?
Ash yellows is a newly discovered plant disease, first detected in the 1980’s. It probably existed long before that, but wasn’t detected because the symptoms are so similar to those of other plant diseases. In many cases, you won’t be able to get a firm diagnosis without laboratory tests. A tiny, mycoplasma-like organism that we call the ash yellows phytoplasma causes the infection. A disease that infects members of the ash (Fraxinus) family, ash yellows only exists in North America. The symptoms are similar to those of environmental stress and opportunistic fungi. Although we see it most often in white and green ash trees, several other species of ash can also become infected.
Symptoms of Ash Yellows
Ash yellows doesn’t discriminate about location. We find it in commercial woodlots, natural forests, home landscapes and urban plantings. Dieback may be rapid or very slow. Although it may be several years before the tree deteriorates to the point where it is unsightly or a danger to your landscaping and buildings, it’s best to remove it promptly to prevent the spread of disease. Replace it with trees that aren’t members of the ash family. It may be as long as three years after infection before the symptoms of ash yellows appear. An infected tree usually grows at about half the rate of a healthy tree. Leaves may be smaller, thinner, and pale in color. Infected trees often produce tufts of twigs or branches, called witches’ brooms.
There is no effective ash yellows disease treatment. The disease is spread from plant to plant by insects. The best course of action if you have a tree with ash yellows is to remove the tree to prevent the spread to other trees. Does this mean that you have to give up ash trees and lilacs in the landscape? If you know there is a problem with ash yellows in the area, don’t plant ash trees. You can plant lilacs as long as you choose common lilacs. Common lilacs and hybrids of common lilacs are known to resist ash tree yellows.
What is Ash Yellows?
Ash yellows is a newly discovered plant disease, first detected in the 1980’s. It probably existed long before that, but wasn’t detected because the symptoms are so similar to those of other plant diseases. In many cases, you won’t be able to get a firm diagnosis without laboratory tests. A tiny, mycoplasma-like organism that we call the ash yellows phytoplasma causes the infection. A disease that infects members of the ash (Fraxinus) family, ash yellows only exists in North America. The symptoms are similar to those of environmental stress and opportunistic fungi. Although we see it most often in white and green ash trees, several other species of ash can also become infected.
Symptoms of Ash Yellows
Ash yellows doesn’t discriminate about location. We find it in commercial woodlots, natural forests, home landscapes and urban plantings. Dieback may be rapid or very slow. Although it may be several years before the tree deteriorates to the point where it is unsightly or a danger to your landscaping and buildings, it’s best to remove it promptly to prevent the spread of disease. Replace it with trees that aren’t members of the ash family. It may be as long as three years after infection before the symptoms of ash yellows appear. An infected tree usually grows at about half the rate of a healthy tree. Leaves may be smaller, thinner, and pale in color. Infected trees often produce tufts of twigs or branches, called witches’ brooms.
There is no effective ash yellows disease treatment. The disease is spread from plant to plant by insects. The best course of action if you have a tree with ash yellows is to remove the tree to prevent the spread to other trees. Does this mean that you have to give up ash trees and lilacs in the landscape? If you know there is a problem with ash yellows in the area, don’t plant ash trees. You can plant lilacs as long as you choose common lilacs. Common lilacs and hybrids of common lilacs are known to resist ash tree yellows.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original cherry red-flowered Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radrazz') and its varieties produce showy flowers and are relatively disease-resistant. The shrubs grow up to 5 feet high and wide, thriving in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH level between 6.0 and 6.5.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
White spots on roses are caused by fungal disease and insect activity. The white spots are usually visible on the surface of flower, leaves or stem, but sometimes they are not so apparent. That is why it is important to look on the underside of leaves. Sometimes, insects hide at the base of the flower. Gardeners should discard diseased or damaged plant material and maintain good air circulation, according to "American Horticultural Society Practical Guides: Roses" by Linden Hawthorne (see Resources).
Mildew
White spots on roses are often caused by powdery mildew, a fungus disease that affects the surface of leaves. The white mildew is spread by the wind and develops during humid periods, according to the University of Illinois Extension website. Mildew is reduced with water, sanitation, fungicide spray and pruning.
Aphids
Some forms of aphids take on a waxy cast that make them appear as white spots on roses. Integrated Pest Management at the University of California says aphids suck the sap from plants and are usually harmless. If too many aphids are present on the rose plants, they can cause the leaves to turn yellow and curl, so check plants often.
Scale
Other insects called scale can cause white spots on roses. Scale looks like oyster shell and appear white as eggs and nymphs. Pruning of damaged branches is recommended by Plant Answers.
Leaf Hopper
The Leaf Hopper is a grey, green or yellow insect that measures 1/4 to 1/2 inch in length. Some forms of the bug feed on the underside of leaves that causes a white stippling pattern, according to the Texas Agriculture Extension Service.
Sun Scorch
White spots can appear on roses when the plants receive too much sunlight or heat. The Master Gardeners of The Southwest View News describe the problem as sun scorch, a form of sun bleaching that can kill leaves. Climbing roses are also susceptible to sun scorch when excess heat radiates off support walls and hits the back of plants.
Mildew
White spots on roses are often caused by powdery mildew, a fungus disease that affects the surface of leaves. The white mildew is spread by the wind and develops during humid periods, according to the University of Illinois Extension website. Mildew is reduced with water, sanitation, fungicide spray and pruning.
Aphids
Some forms of aphids take on a waxy cast that make them appear as white spots on roses. Integrated Pest Management at the University of California says aphids suck the sap from plants and are usually harmless. If too many aphids are present on the rose plants, they can cause the leaves to turn yellow and curl, so check plants often.
Scale
Other insects called scale can cause white spots on roses. Scale looks like oyster shell and appear white as eggs and nymphs. Pruning of damaged branches is recommended by Plant Answers.
Leaf Hopper
The Leaf Hopper is a grey, green or yellow insect that measures 1/4 to 1/2 inch in length. Some forms of the bug feed on the underside of leaves that causes a white stippling pattern, according to the Texas Agriculture Extension Service.
Sun Scorch
White spots can appear on roses when the plants receive too much sunlight or heat. The Master Gardeners of The Southwest View News describe the problem as sun scorch, a form of sun bleaching that can kill leaves. Climbing roses are also susceptible to sun scorch when excess heat radiates off support walls and hits the back of plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original Knock Out rose (Rosa "Radrazz"), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, has exceptional disease resistance and requires little to no maintenance, including fertilizers. Joined by an expanded collection known as the Knock Out Family, the original Knock Out rose requires no fertilizer under normal conditions in healthy garden soil. With varieties hardy from USDA zones 4 through 11, Knock Out Family members share the same simple-care, low-nutrient requirements of the original Knock Out rose. If you choose to fertilize your Knock Out roses, timely applications and a light hand are essential.
First-Year Knock Outs
Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants.
Established Plants
If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations
In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush.
Northern Concerns
In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
First-Year Knock Outs
Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants.
Established Plants
If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations
In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush.
Northern Concerns
In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
For the most part, monkey grass, also known as lilyturf, is a hardy plant. It is frequently used in landscaping for borders and edging. But, despite the fact that monkey grass is able to take a lot of abuse, it is still susceptible to disease. One disease in particular is crown rot.
What is Monkey Grass Crown Rot?
Monkey grass crown rot, like any crown rot disease, is caused by a fungus that thrives in moist and warm conditions. Normally, this problem is found in warmer, more humid states, but it can occur in cooler areas as well.
Symptoms of Monkey Grass Crown Rot
The signs of monkey grass crown rot are a yellowing of the older leaves from the base of the plant. Eventually, the whole leaf will turn yellow from the bottom up. Younger leaves will turn brown before reaching maturity. You may also notice a white, thread-like substance in the soil around the plant. This is the fungus. There may be tiny white to reddish brown balls scattered around the base of the plant too. This is also the crown rot fungus.
Treatment for Monkey Grass Crown Rot
Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment for monkey grass crown rot. You should immediately remove any infected plants from the area and treat the area repeatedly with fungicide. Even with treatment, however, you may not be able to rid the area of the crown rot fungus, and it may spread to other plants. Avoid planting anything new in the area that may also be susceptible to crown rot. There are over 200 plants that are susceptible to crown rot. Some of the more popular plants include:
Hostas
Peonies
Bleeding heart
Daylilies
Periwinkle
Lily-of-the-valley
What is Monkey Grass Crown Rot?
Monkey grass crown rot, like any crown rot disease, is caused by a fungus that thrives in moist and warm conditions. Normally, this problem is found in warmer, more humid states, but it can occur in cooler areas as well.
Symptoms of Monkey Grass Crown Rot
The signs of monkey grass crown rot are a yellowing of the older leaves from the base of the plant. Eventually, the whole leaf will turn yellow from the bottom up. Younger leaves will turn brown before reaching maturity. You may also notice a white, thread-like substance in the soil around the plant. This is the fungus. There may be tiny white to reddish brown balls scattered around the base of the plant too. This is also the crown rot fungus.
Treatment for Monkey Grass Crown Rot
Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment for monkey grass crown rot. You should immediately remove any infected plants from the area and treat the area repeatedly with fungicide. Even with treatment, however, you may not be able to rid the area of the crown rot fungus, and it may spread to other plants. Avoid planting anything new in the area that may also be susceptible to crown rot. There are over 200 plants that are susceptible to crown rot. Some of the more popular plants include:
Hostas
Peonies
Bleeding heart
Daylilies
Periwinkle
Lily-of-the-valley
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Saguaro are one of the most stately and statuesque of the cacti. They are also fall prey to a nasty infection called bacterial necrosis of saguaro. What is bacterial necrosis? If you know what necrosis is, you can tell by the name that this disease is very simply a condition that rots the tissues of the plant. It is a smelly, potentially life threatening disease with some difficult control practices. The importance of detecting and beginning treatment cannot be stressed, as the plant can live for some time with small spots of the disease, but will eventually succumb if left untreated.
What is Bacterial Necrosis?
Saguaro cactus can live for 200 years and grow up to 60 feet in height. These monstrous desert dwellers look imposing and impervious but can actually be brought down by a tiny bacteria. Saguaro cactus necrosis can invade the plant in a number of ways. It eventually creates necrotic pockets in the flesh which will spread. These necrotic areas are dead plant tissue and, if left unchecked, can eventually kill these regal plants. Treating bacterial necrosis in saguaro in the early stages can give the plant an 80 percent chance of survival.
Saguaro cactus problems are rare, as these prickly giants have developed methods of protection from predators and are remarkably adaptable to a variety of unfavorable conditions. Saguaro cactus necrosis starts out as dark spots in the flesh, which is soft and smelly. Eventually, the disease progresses to rotten lesions that exude dark, smelly fluid.
Saguaro cactus necrosis may also develop into a corky patch where the plant is trying to heal itself. Any breach of the corked area will release the bacteria and infect more of the plant. The villain is a bacteria called Erwinia. It can get into the plant from any injury and even from a moth’s feeding activities. The bacteria also survives in soil until it finds a victim.
Treating Bacterial Necrosis in Saguaro
Bacterial necrosis of saguaro treatment is mostly manual, as there are no approved chemicals to combat the bacteria. The infected material needs to be removed from the plant and the area cleaned to prevent the spread of the disease. Infected material must be destroyed and not added to the compost bin. Immediately doing “surgery” on your plant may or may not save it, however, as the bacteria lives in the soil or in dead plant matter on the ground.
Any future injury or even the tunneling of larvae into the plant will leave it open to re-infection. You should treat the process just like a surgery and prepare by sterilizing all tools you will use and arming yourself with some heavy gloves to prevent getting stuck by the plant’s spines. Saguaro cactus problems from bacterial necrosis begin with open, oozing wounds. You will need a sharp, clean knife to cut out the area. Excise at least ½ inch of the surrounding healthy tissue as well. As you cut, dip the knife into a 1:9 ratio solution of bleach and water to sanitize between cuts. As you make your cuts, angle them so any water will drain out of the cactus.
Rinse the hole you have made with the bleach solution to kill any remaining pathogen. The hole needs to remain open to the air to dry out and callus naturally. In most instances, the cactus will be fine provided the bacteria is not re-introduced. In rare cases, a cactus has been entirely girdled by the disease and, sadly, the plant needs to be removed and destroyed. This usually only happens on large plantations or in the wild where the keen eye of the gardener is not aware of potential problems.
What is Bacterial Necrosis?
Saguaro cactus can live for 200 years and grow up to 60 feet in height. These monstrous desert dwellers look imposing and impervious but can actually be brought down by a tiny bacteria. Saguaro cactus necrosis can invade the plant in a number of ways. It eventually creates necrotic pockets in the flesh which will spread. These necrotic areas are dead plant tissue and, if left unchecked, can eventually kill these regal plants. Treating bacterial necrosis in saguaro in the early stages can give the plant an 80 percent chance of survival.
Saguaro cactus problems are rare, as these prickly giants have developed methods of protection from predators and are remarkably adaptable to a variety of unfavorable conditions. Saguaro cactus necrosis starts out as dark spots in the flesh, which is soft and smelly. Eventually, the disease progresses to rotten lesions that exude dark, smelly fluid.
Saguaro cactus necrosis may also develop into a corky patch where the plant is trying to heal itself. Any breach of the corked area will release the bacteria and infect more of the plant. The villain is a bacteria called Erwinia. It can get into the plant from any injury and even from a moth’s feeding activities. The bacteria also survives in soil until it finds a victim.
Treating Bacterial Necrosis in Saguaro
Bacterial necrosis of saguaro treatment is mostly manual, as there are no approved chemicals to combat the bacteria. The infected material needs to be removed from the plant and the area cleaned to prevent the spread of the disease. Infected material must be destroyed and not added to the compost bin. Immediately doing “surgery” on your plant may or may not save it, however, as the bacteria lives in the soil or in dead plant matter on the ground.
Any future injury or even the tunneling of larvae into the plant will leave it open to re-infection. You should treat the process just like a surgery and prepare by sterilizing all tools you will use and arming yourself with some heavy gloves to prevent getting stuck by the plant’s spines. Saguaro cactus problems from bacterial necrosis begin with open, oozing wounds. You will need a sharp, clean knife to cut out the area. Excise at least ½ inch of the surrounding healthy tissue as well. As you cut, dip the knife into a 1:9 ratio solution of bleach and water to sanitize between cuts. As you make your cuts, angle them so any water will drain out of the cactus.
Rinse the hole you have made with the bleach solution to kill any remaining pathogen. The hole needs to remain open to the air to dry out and callus naturally. In most instances, the cactus will be fine provided the bacteria is not re-introduced. In rare cases, a cactus has been entirely girdled by the disease and, sadly, the plant needs to be removed and destroyed. This usually only happens on large plantations or in the wild where the keen eye of the gardener is not aware of potential problems.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chives are a delicious and ornamental addition to the herb garden and suffer little disease or pests. Both the mild onion-tasting leaves and the small poufs of pinkish-purple blossoms are edible and impart not only flavor but surprising bursts of color in salads or as garnish. The question is, when and how to harvest chives. Read on to find out more information regarding the harvesting and storing of chives.
Chive Plant Harvest
A member of the onion family Alliaceae, chives (Allium schoenoprasum) are cultivated for their grass-like hollow leaves, which impart a subtle onion flavor to a variety of dishes. The plant is low maintenance and easy to grow but thrives in full sun and well-draining rich soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0.
The plant grows in a grass-like tuft that can attain heights of 20 inches. Of course, if you are picking chives, the plant can be maintained at a much lower height. The edible lavender flowers blossom in the late spring from May to June. Chives can also be grown indoors and can be propagated either by seed or planting rooted clumps in the spring after all danger of frost has passed in your area. Older chive plants should be divided every 3-4 years in the spring.
When to Harvest Chives
There is no set chive plant harvest time. You may begin picking chives 30 days after transplanting or 60 days after sowing seed when the leaves are at least 6 inches tall. The plant will produce more abundantly in its second year and thereafter you can continue to pick at will over the course of the summer and in mild climates through the winter. In cooler regions, the plant dies back naturally until spring when the bright green blades can be seen poking up from the soil.
Harvesting and Storing Chives
There is no mystery as to how to harvest chives. Using a sharp pair of kitchen shears, snip the leaves from the base of the plant, to within 1-2 inches of the soil. In the first year, harvest 3-4 times. Thereafter, cut the chive back monthly. Cut the flower stalks off at the soil line to prevent the plant from forming seed. This will encourage the plant to keep producing leaves, and you can utilize the flowers as garnish or tossed into salads. Chives can be used both fresh and dried but they lose quite a bit of their flavor when dried. It’s best to use them fresh. If you have cut too many to use or don’t end up using the cut chives right away, you can place the ends in water and store them in the refrigerator for a couple of days. You can also freeze chives by chopping them up and placing them in freezer bags. Again, the flavor loses something in the translation and it’s better to use them fresh. Chives do well grown indoors, so for a fresh supply of chives, try growing them in a pot, perhaps with some other herbs for a continuous supply of fresh flavor.
Chive Plant Harvest
A member of the onion family Alliaceae, chives (Allium schoenoprasum) are cultivated for their grass-like hollow leaves, which impart a subtle onion flavor to a variety of dishes. The plant is low maintenance and easy to grow but thrives in full sun and well-draining rich soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0.
The plant grows in a grass-like tuft that can attain heights of 20 inches. Of course, if you are picking chives, the plant can be maintained at a much lower height. The edible lavender flowers blossom in the late spring from May to June. Chives can also be grown indoors and can be propagated either by seed or planting rooted clumps in the spring after all danger of frost has passed in your area. Older chive plants should be divided every 3-4 years in the spring.
When to Harvest Chives
There is no set chive plant harvest time. You may begin picking chives 30 days after transplanting or 60 days after sowing seed when the leaves are at least 6 inches tall. The plant will produce more abundantly in its second year and thereafter you can continue to pick at will over the course of the summer and in mild climates through the winter. In cooler regions, the plant dies back naturally until spring when the bright green blades can be seen poking up from the soil.
Harvesting and Storing Chives
There is no mystery as to how to harvest chives. Using a sharp pair of kitchen shears, snip the leaves from the base of the plant, to within 1-2 inches of the soil. In the first year, harvest 3-4 times. Thereafter, cut the chive back monthly. Cut the flower stalks off at the soil line to prevent the plant from forming seed. This will encourage the plant to keep producing leaves, and you can utilize the flowers as garnish or tossed into salads. Chives can be used both fresh and dried but they lose quite a bit of their flavor when dried. It’s best to use them fresh. If you have cut too many to use or don’t end up using the cut chives right away, you can place the ends in water and store them in the refrigerator for a couple of days. You can also freeze chives by chopping them up and placing them in freezer bags. Again, the flavor loses something in the translation and it’s better to use them fresh. Chives do well grown indoors, so for a fresh supply of chives, try growing them in a pot, perhaps with some other herbs for a continuous supply of fresh flavor.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Bay trees are grown all over the world for the leaves, which are used in cooking, massage therapy and for medicinal properties. Though fairly resistant to pests and disease, problems may nonetheless strike, causing the leaves to turn yellow on the bay laurel. You may be wondering why my bay laurel is turning yellow if you see yellowing of the bay laurel leaves. Bay trees are evergreen shrubs that grow beautifully in either the garden or in containers. They make wonderful topiaries shaped as balls, pyramids, or “lollipops” and may even have braided or spirally trained stems. Laurus nobilis prefers to be grown in well-drained soil in a partially shaded or protected sun exposure. Grow bay outside in warm climates or indoors or greenhouse in cooler climates.
Why is My Bay Laurel Turning Yellow?
Leaves turn yellow on bay laurel for a number of reasons, resulting from an environmental condition, pest infestation or disease. Root rot – A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of waterlogged roots or wet weather creating root rot, a fungal disease that does exactly what is says. This usually applies to container grown plants and symptoms also include leaf wilt and drooping as well as yellow leaves. Avoid overwatering and standing water by providing adequate drainage. You may need to repot the bay in well draining, disease-free soil after removing any infected parts. An application of fungicide may be helpful as well.
Bay sucker pest – If your bay laurel has yellow leaves, another cause may be the bay sucker (aka: jumping plant lice), a common insect marauder of bay plants. These sap suckers are most active in late spring. Early signs of these pests are yellowing of the leaves followed by thickening of the leaf tissue, and finally brown leaves that drop. Treatment for these pests is the removal of infested foliage on the yellow bay laurel plant. The damaged portions should be burned and then the bay should be treated with insecticidal soap focused on the underside of the leaves. You may need to treat more than one time. Nutrient deficiency – Lastly, if your bay laurel has yellow leaves, the root of the problem may be either an iron or a nitrogen deficiency.
A deficiency in iron is also called iron chlorosis and is a major issue in the garden that is caused by several problems, most often overly alkaline soil or damaged roots. Too little iron decreases chlorophyll, resulting in yellow leaves beginning at the edges and moving inward while the veins remain green. Treatment is dependent upon the cause. If the soil is too wet or alkaline, mix organic matter, sulfur or peat moss into the soil to correct the pH and improve drainage. A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of a nitrogen deficiency, which is caused by an imbalance in the pH of the soil. A uniform yellowing of the bay laurel leaves occurring in older, lower leaves first and moving upward is how a nitrogen deficiency can be diagnosed. Add a nitrate rich fertilizer to the soil, making sure to follow the directions lest you scorch the plant. A safer but slower option is to amend with decomposing organic matter to treat the nitrogen deficiency.
Why is My Bay Laurel Turning Yellow?
Leaves turn yellow on bay laurel for a number of reasons, resulting from an environmental condition, pest infestation or disease. Root rot – A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of waterlogged roots or wet weather creating root rot, a fungal disease that does exactly what is says. This usually applies to container grown plants and symptoms also include leaf wilt and drooping as well as yellow leaves. Avoid overwatering and standing water by providing adequate drainage. You may need to repot the bay in well draining, disease-free soil after removing any infected parts. An application of fungicide may be helpful as well.
Bay sucker pest – If your bay laurel has yellow leaves, another cause may be the bay sucker (aka: jumping plant lice), a common insect marauder of bay plants. These sap suckers are most active in late spring. Early signs of these pests are yellowing of the leaves followed by thickening of the leaf tissue, and finally brown leaves that drop. Treatment for these pests is the removal of infested foliage on the yellow bay laurel plant. The damaged portions should be burned and then the bay should be treated with insecticidal soap focused on the underside of the leaves. You may need to treat more than one time. Nutrient deficiency – Lastly, if your bay laurel has yellow leaves, the root of the problem may be either an iron or a nitrogen deficiency.
A deficiency in iron is also called iron chlorosis and is a major issue in the garden that is caused by several problems, most often overly alkaline soil or damaged roots. Too little iron decreases chlorophyll, resulting in yellow leaves beginning at the edges and moving inward while the veins remain green. Treatment is dependent upon the cause. If the soil is too wet or alkaline, mix organic matter, sulfur or peat moss into the soil to correct the pH and improve drainage. A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of a nitrogen deficiency, which is caused by an imbalance in the pH of the soil. A uniform yellowing of the bay laurel leaves occurring in older, lower leaves first and moving upward is how a nitrogen deficiency can be diagnosed. Add a nitrate rich fertilizer to the soil, making sure to follow the directions lest you scorch the plant. A safer but slower option is to amend with decomposing organic matter to treat the nitrogen deficiency.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
One of the easiest and most common plants to grow is the spider plant. Spider plants have relatively few problems but occasionally cultural, pest or disease issues may arise. Yellow leaves on spider plants is a classic complaint but the cause can take some serious sleuthing to uncover. A close look at your plant and its growing conditions can start to unravel why you may see leaves turning yellow on spider plant.
Causes of Yellow Leaves on Spider Plants
Spider plants are charming houseplants that are often in the family for generations. The babies they produce will live on for years and produce spiderettes of their own. It is not unusual for many copies of an original spider plant to exist within a family or group due to these spiderettes. If you have the mama spider plant, it can be quite precious since it is the source of so many copies of itself. Yellowing spider plant leaves are, therefore, a concern and the cause needs to be identified and dealt with swiftly.
Environmental issues
One of the more common reasons you may see yellowing spider plant leaves is cultural. The plant doesn’t mind a cramped pot, but you should change the soil annually. If you fertilize monthly, the soil can build up toxic levels of salt. Leach the pot after fertilizing to prevent the salts from burning the roots. These houseplants thrive in many types of light but excess light can cause the leaves to burn and no light will gradually weaken the plant with signs showing up first with leaves turning yellow on spider plant. Plants can also get yellow leaves if they are moved to a new environment. It is simply a symptom of shock and will clear up once the plant adapts to its new surroundings. Excess minerals in the tap water can also cause discolored leaves. Use rainwater or distilled water when irrigating spider plants.
Disease
A spider plant with yellow leaves may also be suffering a nutritional deficiency, but if you fertilize and change the soil annually, it is more likely a disease. Check to see if the container the plant is in drains freely. Setting the pot on a saucer and keeping the roots wet can cause mold issues and possible root rot. Water your plant when the top half inch feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering but don’t let the plant dry out. Spider plants have few disease issues other than rust and root rot, but root rot can be serious. When you see spider plant leaves turning yellow and are an enthusiastic waterer, remove the plant from its container, rinse the roots, cut away any soft or moldy parts and repot in sterile potting medium.Pests
Indoor plants don’t get many pest issues unless they came from the nursery with bugs or you introduce a new houseplant that has hitchhikers. If you put your plant outside in summer, it will be exposed to many insect pests. Most common are sucking insects whose feeding behavior reduces the sap in the plant and can introduce diseases. Watch for mealybugs, aphids, scale, whiteflies and mites. Combat these with a good horticultural soap and by rinsing the leaves to remove the pests. Place the plant where air circulation is good after rinsing the leaves so that foliage can dry off quickly. Neem oil is also effective.
Causes of Yellow Leaves on Spider Plants
Spider plants are charming houseplants that are often in the family for generations. The babies they produce will live on for years and produce spiderettes of their own. It is not unusual for many copies of an original spider plant to exist within a family or group due to these spiderettes. If you have the mama spider plant, it can be quite precious since it is the source of so many copies of itself. Yellowing spider plant leaves are, therefore, a concern and the cause needs to be identified and dealt with swiftly.
Environmental issues
One of the more common reasons you may see yellowing spider plant leaves is cultural. The plant doesn’t mind a cramped pot, but you should change the soil annually. If you fertilize monthly, the soil can build up toxic levels of salt. Leach the pot after fertilizing to prevent the salts from burning the roots. These houseplants thrive in many types of light but excess light can cause the leaves to burn and no light will gradually weaken the plant with signs showing up first with leaves turning yellow on spider plant. Plants can also get yellow leaves if they are moved to a new environment. It is simply a symptom of shock and will clear up once the plant adapts to its new surroundings. Excess minerals in the tap water can also cause discolored leaves. Use rainwater or distilled water when irrigating spider plants.
Disease
A spider plant with yellow leaves may also be suffering a nutritional deficiency, but if you fertilize and change the soil annually, it is more likely a disease. Check to see if the container the plant is in drains freely. Setting the pot on a saucer and keeping the roots wet can cause mold issues and possible root rot. Water your plant when the top half inch feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering but don’t let the plant dry out. Spider plants have few disease issues other than rust and root rot, but root rot can be serious. When you see spider plant leaves turning yellow and are an enthusiastic waterer, remove the plant from its container, rinse the roots, cut away any soft or moldy parts and repot in sterile potting medium.Pests
Indoor plants don’t get many pest issues unless they came from the nursery with bugs or you introduce a new houseplant that has hitchhikers. If you put your plant outside in summer, it will be exposed to many insect pests. Most common are sucking insects whose feeding behavior reduces the sap in the plant and can introduce diseases. Watch for mealybugs, aphids, scale, whiteflies and mites. Combat these with a good horticultural soap and by rinsing the leaves to remove the pests. Place the plant where air circulation is good after rinsing the leaves so that foliage can dry off quickly. Neem oil is also effective.
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月18日
this little bro is, I think, doing good. It hasn't had any signs of damage or disease, and it's getting fuller and taller
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Nematodes are tiny, microscopic roundworms that live in the soil and feed on plants. While some are nitrogen fixing and actually beneficial, others can cause serious damage and open up pathways in plants for harmful bacteria and disease. Root knot nematodes are very common among most cactus species. Keep reading to learn more about how to detect cactus root nematodes and the best methods for managing nematodes in cactus roots.
Cactus Root Knot Nematodes
Nematodes feed on plant roots by digging into the root’s cell walls with a sharp, pointed feeding tool called a sytlet. The puncture wound created by the stylet is usually more of a problem than the presence of the nematode itself, because it creates an opening that allows bacteria and fungi to enter easily into the plant, infecting it from within. Root knot nematodes are a specific kind of nematodes that feed on roots and usually create telltale fleshy masses, or “galls” on the roots. These galls make it difficult for the cactus to draw up water and nutrients properly. Since the galls form underground, it’s necessary to look for aboveground signs that your cactus is infected. The lack of adequate water and nutrients can make for a plant that’s yellowed, shriveled and stunted looking.
Treating Nematodes of Cactus
The best method for root knot nematode control is prevention. If you’re planting your cacti in containers, always use new, sterile potting medium and clean any used containers thoroughly. If cactus root knot nematodes are already in your soil, it’s possible to treat with nematicides. These chemicals usually come in either granular or liquid form, and can be applied in a few different ways. Always follow the application instructions on the label exactly. It’s easier on the plant to treat soil before planting, but you can treat the soil around your established cactus this way as well.
Cactus Root Knot Nematodes
Nematodes feed on plant roots by digging into the root’s cell walls with a sharp, pointed feeding tool called a sytlet. The puncture wound created by the stylet is usually more of a problem than the presence of the nematode itself, because it creates an opening that allows bacteria and fungi to enter easily into the plant, infecting it from within. Root knot nematodes are a specific kind of nematodes that feed on roots and usually create telltale fleshy masses, or “galls” on the roots. These galls make it difficult for the cactus to draw up water and nutrients properly. Since the galls form underground, it’s necessary to look for aboveground signs that your cactus is infected. The lack of adequate water and nutrients can make for a plant that’s yellowed, shriveled and stunted looking.
Treating Nematodes of Cactus
The best method for root knot nematode control is prevention. If you’re planting your cacti in containers, always use new, sterile potting medium and clean any used containers thoroughly. If cactus root knot nematodes are already in your soil, it’s possible to treat with nematicides. These chemicals usually come in either granular or liquid form, and can be applied in a few different ways. Always follow the application instructions on the label exactly. It’s easier on the plant to treat soil before planting, but you can treat the soil around your established cactus this way as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Root rot is a common disease in plants that is usually caused by poor drainage or improper watering. While more common in potted plants, root rot can also affect outdoor plants. Desert plants like succulents, cacti and agave are especially susceptible to root rot if they are planted in the wrong conditions. Continue reading to learn more about managing root rot in agave.
What is Agave Root Rot?
Agave, also commonly called century plant, is a desert plant native to Mexico. It grows best in dry conditions in full sun. Too much shade or soil that is too moist and drains poorly can cause the plant’s roots to rot. Weather fluctuations, such as unusual cold and rainy periods followed by extreme heat and humidity, can also contribute to root rot.
Agave is hardy in zones 8-10. They have been known to survive temperature down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.) but when exposed to freezing temperatures, the plant will be damaged by frost in just a few hours. Weakened, damaged plant tissues become a perfect host for fungal and bacterial diseases and pests. Then as the earth heats up and humidity fills the air, fungal diseases quickly grow and spread. Because roots are under soil, root rot may go undetected until the whole plant tips over from having no roots to anchor it in place. Bacterial crown and root rot can also be common in agave, caused by the agave snout weevil. The adult agave snout weevil chews on the lower parts of the agave plant, injecting the plant tissues with a bacteria as it chews, which causes them to rot. It then lays its eggs in the rotting tissue and, when hatched, the agave snout weevil larvae feed on the rotting crown and roots.
Alleviating Root Problems of Agave Plants
Agave root rot symptoms may include a general unhealthy appearance of the plant, lesions around the plant crown, tipping over of the plant and roots that are gray/black and slimy. If caught before the entire root system has rotted, you can dig up the plant, remove all soil from the roots and cut off all the rotted parts. Then treat the plant and roots with a fungicide such as thiopanate methyl or neem oil. Move the plant to a different location with full sun and well-draining soil. Pumice can be mixed in with the soil for better drainage. If the roots have all rotted, all you can do is discard the plant and treat the soil with fungicide to prevent the fungal disease from spreading to other plants. To prevent agave root rot in the future, remember agave is a desert plant. It needs full sun and should be planted in an area that tends to be dry, like a rock garden.
What is Agave Root Rot?
Agave, also commonly called century plant, is a desert plant native to Mexico. It grows best in dry conditions in full sun. Too much shade or soil that is too moist and drains poorly can cause the plant’s roots to rot. Weather fluctuations, such as unusual cold and rainy periods followed by extreme heat and humidity, can also contribute to root rot.
Agave is hardy in zones 8-10. They have been known to survive temperature down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.) but when exposed to freezing temperatures, the plant will be damaged by frost in just a few hours. Weakened, damaged plant tissues become a perfect host for fungal and bacterial diseases and pests. Then as the earth heats up and humidity fills the air, fungal diseases quickly grow and spread. Because roots are under soil, root rot may go undetected until the whole plant tips over from having no roots to anchor it in place. Bacterial crown and root rot can also be common in agave, caused by the agave snout weevil. The adult agave snout weevil chews on the lower parts of the agave plant, injecting the plant tissues with a bacteria as it chews, which causes them to rot. It then lays its eggs in the rotting tissue and, when hatched, the agave snout weevil larvae feed on the rotting crown and roots.
Alleviating Root Problems of Agave Plants
Agave root rot symptoms may include a general unhealthy appearance of the plant, lesions around the plant crown, tipping over of the plant and roots that are gray/black and slimy. If caught before the entire root system has rotted, you can dig up the plant, remove all soil from the roots and cut off all the rotted parts. Then treat the plant and roots with a fungicide such as thiopanate methyl or neem oil. Move the plant to a different location with full sun and well-draining soil. Pumice can be mixed in with the soil for better drainage. If the roots have all rotted, all you can do is discard the plant and treat the soil with fungicide to prevent the fungal disease from spreading to other plants. To prevent agave root rot in the future, remember agave is a desert plant. It needs full sun and should be planted in an area that tends to be dry, like a rock garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
The proper amount of light is critical for petunias to produce lush, healthy foliage and ample flowers. Lack of sunlight leads to weak plants that are more prone to disease. Without sunlight, petunias also flower poorly with few blossoms through the otherwise productive summer months.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
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