文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
The proper amount of light is critical for petunias to produce lush, healthy foliage and ample flowers. Lack of sunlight leads to weak plants that are more prone to disease. Without sunlight, petunias also flower poorly with few blossoms through the otherwise productive summer months.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Floribunda roses present clusters of two to three blooms on each cane, growing from 2 to 4 feet tall. These lovely specimens are a hybrid created by crossing hybrid tea roses with polyanthas. Bred to be hardy and disease-resistant, they require minimal maintenance. With just a little effort, you can have glorious blooms all season long.
Floribunda Rose Care
Step 1
Prune canes once leaf buds appear in the spring to stimulate plant growth. Cut each cane back by half. Use sharp scissors or clippers.
Step 2
Fertilize floribunda roses each spring once new growth appears. Use a rose-specific fertilizer and follow label directions carefully. Rose fertilizer is available as a liquid concentrate and as pellets. Liquid concentrate is mixed with water and poured at the base of the plant. Pellet form fertilizer is shaken on the soil around the plant. Either application is effective; pellets are applied less often than the liquid concentrate.
Step 3
Work shredded leaves, compost or other organic material into the ground around the rose bush. Do not disturb the plant's roots.
Step 4
Shovel a 1- to 3-inch layer of mulch on top of the soil surrounding the floribunda rose; this helps the plant retain moisture and limits weed growth. Avoid laying mulch up against the base of plant as that could cause stem rot.
Step 5
Water plant once or twice a week, supplementing the natural rainfall. Water deeply and aim for the base of the plant. Roses require 4-5 gallons of water per week during the growing season. Shallow watering may cause the development of weak roots.
Step 6
Prune the rose bush as flowers finish blooming. This will stimulate new growth. Once a flower is done blooming, cut back that cane. Perform the cut with sharp scissors or clippers and aim for a spot directly above a leaf bud. New growth will appear just below the cut.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knockout roses are a group of hybrid shrub roses bred for wide climate tolerance and significant resistance to disease and insect pests. Unlike traditional rose pruning, Knockout rose shrubs perform better when sheared down each year in the spring. They are also self-cleaning so they do not require dead heading, which adds to their low maintenance.
Annual Pruning
Pruning Knockout roses should be done once a year in the early spring or after the last hard frost has passed in your region. Even significant or harsh pruning in the early spring will not inhibit bloom in the current year. Knockout shrubs will easily rebound from their spring pruning with prolific bloom in the late spring, summer and fall until the first hard frost occurs.
Pruning Technique
Annual pruning of Knockout roses is most easily done with a clean and sharp pair of long-blade scissor shears or loppers. Unlike traditional rose pruning that requires cane by cane cuts, Knockout roses neither require nor perform well with this style of pruning. Lopping off up to one-third of the rose shrub volume and bringing the height down to between one and two feet over the crown of the plant is ideal. Make a flat-top cut with the tool blades held parallel to the shrub top. Clearing up all of the clippings and debris from the soil surface will help to keep disease and pests from establishing themselves and leave a clean surface for fertilizer and mulch applications.
Annual Pruning
Pruning Knockout roses should be done once a year in the early spring or after the last hard frost has passed in your region. Even significant or harsh pruning in the early spring will not inhibit bloom in the current year. Knockout shrubs will easily rebound from their spring pruning with prolific bloom in the late spring, summer and fall until the first hard frost occurs.
Pruning Technique
Annual pruning of Knockout roses is most easily done with a clean and sharp pair of long-blade scissor shears or loppers. Unlike traditional rose pruning that requires cane by cane cuts, Knockout roses neither require nor perform well with this style of pruning. Lopping off up to one-third of the rose shrub volume and bringing the height down to between one and two feet over the crown of the plant is ideal. Make a flat-top cut with the tool blades held parallel to the shrub top. Clearing up all of the clippings and debris from the soil surface will help to keep disease and pests from establishing themselves and leave a clean surface for fertilizer and mulch applications.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The joy of having "Knock Out" roses is that they are so easy to grow. The disease-, drought- and pest-resistant roses practically take care of themselves. They make attractive, low-maintenance hedges in the landscape. By rooting the cuttings from a "Knock Out" rose, you can have your own easy-to-grow roses.
Step 1
Take cuttings from the tip of the "Knock Out" rose, in the area where the hip is beginning to form. Cut a stem six to eight inches long, at a 45 degree angle, using a sharp knife. Do not allow cuttings to dry out.
Step 2
Select a location for the cuttings to root. A location on the east side of your house, which gets plenty of sunlight, but not direct light, is a good location for your "Knock Out" cuttings. Mix peat moss and composted pine bark, with the existing soil. Soil should be kept moist, but well drained.
Step 3
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the rose cutting, allowing them to remain on the upper half of the cutting. Dip half of the cutting into the rooting hormone. Take your pencil and make a small hole into the soil. Put that portion of the cutting, which has rooting hormone on it, into the hole.
Step 4
Place the cuttings eight inches apart. Firm the soil around the cuttings, by pressing the soil with your palms, to ensure good soil contact. Water the cuttings thoroughly. If necessary, protect the cuttings from the cold.
Step 5
Water the cuttings every other day, if it does not rain. In the spring the "Knock Out" roses will develop leaves and roots. Although they have roots, it is best to leave the young roses in place for one year or until they can be transplanted, without damage.
Step 6
Transplant the young roses to a location that has at least six hours of sun. Do this while the plants are dormant in late winter.
Step 1
Take cuttings from the tip of the "Knock Out" rose, in the area where the hip is beginning to form. Cut a stem six to eight inches long, at a 45 degree angle, using a sharp knife. Do not allow cuttings to dry out.
Step 2
Select a location for the cuttings to root. A location on the east side of your house, which gets plenty of sunlight, but not direct light, is a good location for your "Knock Out" cuttings. Mix peat moss and composted pine bark, with the existing soil. Soil should be kept moist, but well drained.
Step 3
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the rose cutting, allowing them to remain on the upper half of the cutting. Dip half of the cutting into the rooting hormone. Take your pencil and make a small hole into the soil. Put that portion of the cutting, which has rooting hormone on it, into the hole.
Step 4
Place the cuttings eight inches apart. Firm the soil around the cuttings, by pressing the soil with your palms, to ensure good soil contact. Water the cuttings thoroughly. If necessary, protect the cuttings from the cold.
Step 5
Water the cuttings every other day, if it does not rain. In the spring the "Knock Out" roses will develop leaves and roots. Although they have roots, it is best to leave the young roses in place for one year or until they can be transplanted, without damage.
Step 6
Transplant the young roses to a location that has at least six hours of sun. Do this while the plants are dormant in late winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses range greatly in size and appearance depending on the type. They offer an appealing form and a pleasing fragrance but often have high maintenance requirements, insect and disease susceptibility and thorns. Knock Out roses, a trademarked variety, offer improved characteristics in some of these areas.
Knockout Rose
The Knock Out rose is a type of modern shrub rose. It reaches a height of three feet and develops pinkish-red blooms. It is not one of the thornless roses.
Benefits
Gardeners appreciate the Knock Out rose for its disease resistance and drought tolerance. It also has lower maintenance requirements than many other roses; it does not need to be deadheaded throughout the growing season.
Thornless Roses
Although the Knock Out rose is not a thornless rose, other thornless shrub roses do exist. These include the "Excellence von Schubert," a heat-tolerant rose with an excellent fragrance. The "Cardinal de Richelieu" grows four feet tall, with blooms that last longer than most other roses. The "J.P. Connell" shrub rose is a yellow thornless cultivar that is winter hardy.
Knockout Rose
The Knock Out rose is a type of modern shrub rose. It reaches a height of three feet and develops pinkish-red blooms. It is not one of the thornless roses.
Benefits
Gardeners appreciate the Knock Out rose for its disease resistance and drought tolerance. It also has lower maintenance requirements than many other roses; it does not need to be deadheaded throughout the growing season.
Thornless Roses
Although the Knock Out rose is not a thornless rose, other thornless shrub roses do exist. These include the "Excellence von Schubert," a heat-tolerant rose with an excellent fragrance. The "Cardinal de Richelieu" grows four feet tall, with blooms that last longer than most other roses. The "J.P. Connell" shrub rose is a yellow thornless cultivar that is winter hardy.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Scientifically known as the Rosa rugosa, the beach rose is a sturdy, easy-to-grow shrub that enjoyed by landscapers and home gardeners alike. Not only are beach roses cold-tolerant and disease resistant, they will also withstand conditions that would send most rose bushes into a full wilt. They thrive in poor soil, salt air, windy environments and full sun. However, while they don't require the attention other rose bushes demand, they do need periodic trimming to look their best. Pruning beach roses eliminates old, unattractive or damaged wood, while promoting the growth of new foliage and flowers.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
All roses, even the beautiful and hardy Knock Out, can sometimes have problems. While most of these issues will not kill the plant, they can cause leaf spots, yellowing, wilting and blight that may make it look like the rose is dying.
Pests and Disease
Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat.
Hydration
Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture.
Pruning
Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues
Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
Pests and Disease
Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat.
Hydration
Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture.
Pruning
Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues
Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The Knock Out® rose hybrids (Rosa "Knock Out®") began with "Radrazz" (Rosa 'Radrazz'), a cherry-red blooming, drought-tolerant rose with excellent disease resistance. More hybrids with different flower colors soon followed. While all Knock Out® roses are more resilient than most other types of roses, they still require supplemental irrigation when it does not rain.
Cultivars and Hardiness
Knock Out® roses are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 11, although this varies slightly depending on cultivar. Fresh loamy soil should be piled up over the crowns of all Knock Out® roses to a depth of 10 to 12 inches for winter protection in USDA zones 4, 5 and 6.
'Radcon' (Rosa 'Radcon,' USDA zones 5 to 10) blooms in pink, 'Radcor' or rainbow (Rosa 'Radcor,' USDA zones 5 to 11) has dark coral pink flowers with yellow to pale coral centers and 'Radsunny' or sunny (Rosa 'Radsunny,' USDA zones 4 to 11) produces flowers that are gold-yellow in bud but change to bright yellow when they open and fade to cream-yellow. These Knock Out® roses all have single-form flowers with five to seven petals.
'Radtko' or double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtko,' USDA zones 4 to 10) produces cherry red flowers with 18 to 24 petals per flower. 'Radtkopink' or pink double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtkopink,' USDA zones 5 to 11) produces bubble-gum pink flowers with 18 to 24 petals each.
Knock Out® roses are shrub roses that grow to a height and width of 3 to 4 feet in cold-winter climates but can mature to 6 feet by 6 feet or more in mild climates.
When to Water
In mild-winter climates above USDA zone 8b, Knock Out® roses bloom all year round. This means they must be watered all year round in southern regions with warm, dry winters.
Knock Out® roses bloom from spring to first frost in cold-winter climates. In northern regions where temperatures drop below freezing in the winter, begin providing supplemental water in the spring when the ground warms and they begin growing, unless they are getting 2 inches of water per week from rain. Continue to water throughout the spring, summer and fall until the weather gets cold and they start dropping their leaves.
Amount and Frequency
Roses need to be watered more often when they are planted in sandy, fast-draining soil than when they are planted in loamy or clay soil that drains more slowly.
Newly planted Knock Out® roses need to be watered as often as necessary to keep the soil uniformly moist for the first one to two months until they get established. Give them 3 gallons of water, then check the top inch of soil every few days. When it begins to dry, give them another 3 gallons.
Give established Knock Out® roses planted in fast-draining soil 6 gallons or 2 inches of water each week when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They may not need to be watered that often in slower-draining soil. Always check the soil before watering. If the top 2 inches is still wet, wait a few more days -- as a general rule, water when the top 3 inches of soil becomes dry. As temperatures rise to between 80 and 90 degrees Ft, Knock Out® roses may need as much as 9 to 12 gallons or 3 to 4 inches of water each week. Even more may be needed when temperatures exceed 90 degrees F.
How to Water
Water Knock Out® roses from below the foliage with a watering can, garden hose or soaker hose.Even though they are resistant to black spot and powdery mildew, it is better to keep the foliage as dry as possible.
Distribute the water evenly over the soil from 2 inches away from the stems and extending out about 1 foot beyond the drip line** or outer edge of the branches. Always water in the morning** so foliage will dry throughout the day if it gets wet, and the moisture will be available to the shrub in the heat of the day.
When using a soaker hose, set a 1-inch deep tuna or cat food can beneath the hose where water will drip into it to measure how much water is being delivered to the shrubs.
Spread a 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the soil around Knock Out® roses to help conserve moisture, keep the roots cool and reduce weeds. Pull the mulch a few inches away from the stems to prevent injury and disease that can result from the mulch keeping them too wet.
Cultivars and Hardiness
Knock Out® roses are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 11, although this varies slightly depending on cultivar. Fresh loamy soil should be piled up over the crowns of all Knock Out® roses to a depth of 10 to 12 inches for winter protection in USDA zones 4, 5 and 6.
'Radcon' (Rosa 'Radcon,' USDA zones 5 to 10) blooms in pink, 'Radcor' or rainbow (Rosa 'Radcor,' USDA zones 5 to 11) has dark coral pink flowers with yellow to pale coral centers and 'Radsunny' or sunny (Rosa 'Radsunny,' USDA zones 4 to 11) produces flowers that are gold-yellow in bud but change to bright yellow when they open and fade to cream-yellow. These Knock Out® roses all have single-form flowers with five to seven petals.
'Radtko' or double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtko,' USDA zones 4 to 10) produces cherry red flowers with 18 to 24 petals per flower. 'Radtkopink' or pink double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtkopink,' USDA zones 5 to 11) produces bubble-gum pink flowers with 18 to 24 petals each.
Knock Out® roses are shrub roses that grow to a height and width of 3 to 4 feet in cold-winter climates but can mature to 6 feet by 6 feet or more in mild climates.
When to Water
In mild-winter climates above USDA zone 8b, Knock Out® roses bloom all year round. This means they must be watered all year round in southern regions with warm, dry winters.
Knock Out® roses bloom from spring to first frost in cold-winter climates. In northern regions where temperatures drop below freezing in the winter, begin providing supplemental water in the spring when the ground warms and they begin growing, unless they are getting 2 inches of water per week from rain. Continue to water throughout the spring, summer and fall until the weather gets cold and they start dropping their leaves.
Amount and Frequency
Roses need to be watered more often when they are planted in sandy, fast-draining soil than when they are planted in loamy or clay soil that drains more slowly.
Newly planted Knock Out® roses need to be watered as often as necessary to keep the soil uniformly moist for the first one to two months until they get established. Give them 3 gallons of water, then check the top inch of soil every few days. When it begins to dry, give them another 3 gallons.
Give established Knock Out® roses planted in fast-draining soil 6 gallons or 2 inches of water each week when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They may not need to be watered that often in slower-draining soil. Always check the soil before watering. If the top 2 inches is still wet, wait a few more days -- as a general rule, water when the top 3 inches of soil becomes dry. As temperatures rise to between 80 and 90 degrees Ft, Knock Out® roses may need as much as 9 to 12 gallons or 3 to 4 inches of water each week. Even more may be needed when temperatures exceed 90 degrees F.
How to Water
Water Knock Out® roses from below the foliage with a watering can, garden hose or soaker hose.Even though they are resistant to black spot and powdery mildew, it is better to keep the foliage as dry as possible.
Distribute the water evenly over the soil from 2 inches away from the stems and extending out about 1 foot beyond the drip line** or outer edge of the branches. Always water in the morning** so foliage will dry throughout the day if it gets wet, and the moisture will be available to the shrub in the heat of the day.
When using a soaker hose, set a 1-inch deep tuna or cat food can beneath the hose where water will drip into it to measure how much water is being delivered to the shrubs.
Spread a 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the soil around Knock Out® roses to help conserve moisture, keep the roots cool and reduce weeds. Pull the mulch a few inches away from the stems to prevent injury and disease that can result from the mulch keeping them too wet.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses add beauty to any living space, but when their blooms begin to droop you have to act fast to prevent further damage to your plants. As beautiful as roses may be, they are not without problems. Roses are susceptible to pests and disease and even something as simple as an environmental change could seriously threaten the health of your roses.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knockout roses are a favorite rose variety for many gardeners because they are available in a wide range of colors and are relatively easy to grow. Although bred for disease resistance, knockout roses are susceptible to several rose-specific diseases and fungi. They also require proper watering habits and fertilizer to thrive. When knockout roses turn brown, they require intervention to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knock out roses are prized for being tough. They're named Earth Kind roses because they are disease-resistant, drought-tolerant, hardy and relatively hassle free. Their plentiful blooms, mounding shape and self-cleaning habit -- they drop their spent blooms -- make them an ideal landscape plant. A few things cause damage to these roses, including holes in the leaves.
Insects
Rose slugs are actually not slugs, but the larvae of sawflies. Still, they're aptly named, and will chew holes in rose leaves. Get rid of them by treating the roses with insecticidal soap. Leaf cutter bees also plague knock out rose leaves when they're cutting away holes in the leaves to use in building their nests. They rarely take much from the plants, however, and their season is short. Knock out roses usually spring back well from this damage.
Diseases
While knock out roses are highly prized for their disease resistance, it is not impossible for them to become infected. If black spots on the leaves precede the holes, the problem is likely black spot disease, a plague of many rose varieties. The fungus Diplocarpon rosae causes the disease, and you can usually treat it with anti-fungal sprays.
Chemical Damage
Granular fertilizers are concentrated mixes of necessary plant nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. But these fertilizers also tend to have a high salt concentration, and coupled with the nitrogen content it will cause burns the shape of the granular pellets on knock out rose leaves if it is left there. After time, the damaged areas might crumble away, leaving only holes.
Considerations
Other random sources of holes in knock out rose bush leaves are harder to pin. It might be a combination of high winds and a neighboring thorny plant, or perhaps cats are chewing on the lower leaves -- they often like to rub and taste leaves as they pass. Search first for the other three problems because insect, disease and chemical damage are potentially life threatening for knock out roses.
Insects
Rose slugs are actually not slugs, but the larvae of sawflies. Still, they're aptly named, and will chew holes in rose leaves. Get rid of them by treating the roses with insecticidal soap. Leaf cutter bees also plague knock out rose leaves when they're cutting away holes in the leaves to use in building their nests. They rarely take much from the plants, however, and their season is short. Knock out roses usually spring back well from this damage.
Diseases
While knock out roses are highly prized for their disease resistance, it is not impossible for them to become infected. If black spots on the leaves precede the holes, the problem is likely black spot disease, a plague of many rose varieties. The fungus Diplocarpon rosae causes the disease, and you can usually treat it with anti-fungal sprays.
Chemical Damage
Granular fertilizers are concentrated mixes of necessary plant nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. But these fertilizers also tend to have a high salt concentration, and coupled with the nitrogen content it will cause burns the shape of the granular pellets on knock out rose leaves if it is left there. After time, the damaged areas might crumble away, leaving only holes.
Considerations
Other random sources of holes in knock out rose bush leaves are harder to pin. It might be a combination of high winds and a neighboring thorny plant, or perhaps cats are chewing on the lower leaves -- they often like to rub and taste leaves as they pass. Search first for the other three problems because insect, disease and chemical damage are potentially life threatening for knock out roses.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose plants exhibiting stem discoloration or blackening may have contracted a fungal disease that causes stem cankers. Stem cankers are caused by several different fungi, according to Ohio State University. These fungal spores enter through the wounds made in stems by improper pruning or weather damage. It is important for rose gardeners to recognize the signs of stem cankers and employ proper disease management practices.
Stem Cankers
Disease-causing fungal spores overwinter in debris left underneath rose plants, according to the University of Georgia. In the spring when temperatures rise, these fungal spores germinate and spread through the wind. Often, rose plants are infected during hot humid weather. Improper pruning practices, rainwater, irrigation water, open wounds and infected pruning tools spread fungal spores to different areas of your plant. Gardeners must employ proper management practices and monitor their plant for symptoms during hot humid weather.
Symptoms
Infected stems display lesions that grow in size and become discolored. Lesions may start off turning yellow or purple, according to the University of Georgia. Over time, lesions sink into the stems, take on a wrinkly appearance and crack. Furthermore, infected areas turn black. You may see the black fruiting bodies of the fungal spores growing from these infected areas. The result is stem girdling, which prevents both water and nutrients from getting past the cankers.
Treatment
Spray your infected rose plant with the same type of fungicide that you would use to treat blackspot disease. Your fungicide may contain active ingredients such as chlorothalonil, maneb and benomyl, according to Mississippi State University. Avoid spraying a rose plant that is suffering from water stress with fungicide to prevent causing damage. Continue to spray during the growing season to treat stem cankers.
Pruning
Remove diseased portions of your rose plant. Dip your bypass shears in a mixture of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water. Make 45-degree angled cuts 5 to 6 inches below the stem canker, as suggested by the University of Georgia. Apply a small amount of glue to the wound to keep fungal spores from entering the plant. Clean up all debris underneath your rose plants. Burn or throw away debris, but do not place the diseased portions of the plant in your compost.
Stem Cankers
Disease-causing fungal spores overwinter in debris left underneath rose plants, according to the University of Georgia. In the spring when temperatures rise, these fungal spores germinate and spread through the wind. Often, rose plants are infected during hot humid weather. Improper pruning practices, rainwater, irrigation water, open wounds and infected pruning tools spread fungal spores to different areas of your plant. Gardeners must employ proper management practices and monitor their plant for symptoms during hot humid weather.
Symptoms
Infected stems display lesions that grow in size and become discolored. Lesions may start off turning yellow or purple, according to the University of Georgia. Over time, lesions sink into the stems, take on a wrinkly appearance and crack. Furthermore, infected areas turn black. You may see the black fruiting bodies of the fungal spores growing from these infected areas. The result is stem girdling, which prevents both water and nutrients from getting past the cankers.
Treatment
Spray your infected rose plant with the same type of fungicide that you would use to treat blackspot disease. Your fungicide may contain active ingredients such as chlorothalonil, maneb and benomyl, according to Mississippi State University. Avoid spraying a rose plant that is suffering from water stress with fungicide to prevent causing damage. Continue to spray during the growing season to treat stem cankers.
Pruning
Remove diseased portions of your rose plant. Dip your bypass shears in a mixture of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water. Make 45-degree angled cuts 5 to 6 inches below the stem canker, as suggested by the University of Georgia. Apply a small amount of glue to the wound to keep fungal spores from entering the plant. Clean up all debris underneath your rose plants. Burn or throw away debris, but do not place the diseased portions of the plant in your compost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The best way to keep your cactus from turning brown is to ensure that its environment is one that's conducive to growing a healthy plant. Quarantine new plants and inspect them for pests and disease before exposing them to your other plants. Provide loose, clean, well-drained soil. Underwater, don't overwater, your plants.
Root Rot
If the base of your cactus is turning brown and the stems are soft and yellow, it could be a sign of root rot. Plants with root rot can be hard to save because the rot starts inside the cactus and works its way out, so symptoms aren't usually noticed until the rot is advanced. Stop watering plants with early rot, and try repotting them in well-draining soil. You can try saving a plant with advanced root rot by cutting away all signs of rot along with some of the healthy tissue surrounding it to ensure that it doesn't spread. Use a clean knife and wipe it with alcohol in between cuts. Apply sulfur powder to the wounds. Overwatering or damaged roots can cause root rot.
Scales
Scales are small insects that appear like brown spots on cacti because of their hard brown shell coverings. The scales feed on plant juices, weakening cacti and making them look yellow. Spray your cactus with a stream of water to remove scales, or wash your plant with a weak solution of detergent. Use malathion insecticide for large infestations. You can also kill scales by using a cotton swab to dab horticultural oil on each scale. This cuts off the scale's air supply so it suffocates.
Mites
Red spider mites are small reddish insects. They're so small that it's easier to look for their webs rather than the bugs themselves. Symptoms include white spots that turn rusty brown and usually appear at the top of the plant. If left untreated, mites kill your cactus by eating the entire outer layer of tissue off your plant. Water cacti from overhead with a strong stream of water to remove mites. Miticides can be used for large infestations.
Corking
The appearance of firm, brown, barklike tissue just above the soil of an otherwise healthy plant is a sign of corking and is part of the natural aging process of cacti. Corking always starts from the base of the cactus and moves upward. If a cactus turns brown from the top down, it's a sign of sunburn or some other problem.
Sunburn
Mild sunburn problems appear as a whitish discoloring, usually at the top and side facing the sun. Severe burns show up as hard brown scars on the burned surface. Cacti with brown scars have permanent damage. If your plant only has whitish discoloring, you can heal it by moving it into the shade. Cacti that aren't used to being in the sun have to be acclimated to it by providing full sun for a short time each day and then increasing exposure over a period of several weeks. Some species should never have full sun all day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
While there are numerous diseases affecting plants, the plant disease fire blight, which is caused by bacteria (Erwinia amylovora), affects trees and shrubs in orchards, nurseries, and landscape plantings; therefore, no one is safe from its path. Plant Disease: Fire Blight The plant disease fire blight is oftentimes influenced by seasonal weather and generally attacks the plant’s blossoms, gradually moving to the twigs, and then the branches. Fire blight gets its name from the burnt appearance of affected blossoms and twigs.
Fire Blight Symptoms
The symptoms of fire blight can appear as soon as trees and shrubs begin their active growth. The first sign of fire blight is a light tan to reddish, watery ooze coming from the infected branch, twig, or trunk cankers. This ooze begins to turn darker after exposure to air, leaving dark streaks on the branches or trunks. Fire blight infections often move into twigs and branches from infected blossoms. The flowers turn brown and wilt and twigs shrivel and blacken, often curling at the ends. In more advanced cases of fire blight infection, cankers begin to form on branches. These discolored oozing patches contain masses of fire blight bacteria and heavy infections can be fatal.
Fire Blight Remedies
Fire blight bacteria is spread through various easily means such as rain or water splashing, insects and birds, other infected plants, and unclean gardening tools. The maximum risk of exposure to this bacterium is late spring or early summer as it emerges from dormancy. Unfortunately, there is no cure for fire blight; therefore, the best fire blight remedies are regular pruning and removal of any infected stems or branches. It may also help to avoid overhead irrigation, as water splashing is one of the most common ways to spread the infection. Special attention should also be given to garden tools, especially those that have been exposed to the bacteria. Tools should be sterilized in an alcohol solution containing three parts denatured alcohol to one part water. Ethanol and denatured alcohol are very different. While ethanol alcohol is not poisonous and quite safe to use, denatured alcohol is a toxic solvent oftentimes used as Shellac thinner. Diluted household bleach (one part bleach to nine parts water) can also be used. Always make sure to thoroughly dry tools to prevent corrosion. It sometimes helps to oil them down as well.
Fire Blight Treatment Since there are no curing fire blight remedies, fire blight is very difficult to control; however, one fire blight treatment to reduce it is by spraying. A variety of bactericides has been developed to combat fire blight, although chemicals to treat fire blight may not always be effective. For instance, fixed copper products are often used as a fire blight treatment but this only reduces the bacteria’s ability to survive and reproduce. Always read and follow instructions carefully before using any chemicals to treat fire blight. Since chemicals aren’t always effective in fire blight control, organic control, such as extensive pruning may be the only option for fire blight treatment.
Fire Blight Symptoms
The symptoms of fire blight can appear as soon as trees and shrubs begin their active growth. The first sign of fire blight is a light tan to reddish, watery ooze coming from the infected branch, twig, or trunk cankers. This ooze begins to turn darker after exposure to air, leaving dark streaks on the branches or trunks. Fire blight infections often move into twigs and branches from infected blossoms. The flowers turn brown and wilt and twigs shrivel and blacken, often curling at the ends. In more advanced cases of fire blight infection, cankers begin to form on branches. These discolored oozing patches contain masses of fire blight bacteria and heavy infections can be fatal.
Fire Blight Remedies
Fire blight bacteria is spread through various easily means such as rain or water splashing, insects and birds, other infected plants, and unclean gardening tools. The maximum risk of exposure to this bacterium is late spring or early summer as it emerges from dormancy. Unfortunately, there is no cure for fire blight; therefore, the best fire blight remedies are regular pruning and removal of any infected stems or branches. It may also help to avoid overhead irrigation, as water splashing is one of the most common ways to spread the infection. Special attention should also be given to garden tools, especially those that have been exposed to the bacteria. Tools should be sterilized in an alcohol solution containing three parts denatured alcohol to one part water. Ethanol and denatured alcohol are very different. While ethanol alcohol is not poisonous and quite safe to use, denatured alcohol is a toxic solvent oftentimes used as Shellac thinner. Diluted household bleach (one part bleach to nine parts water) can also be used. Always make sure to thoroughly dry tools to prevent corrosion. It sometimes helps to oil them down as well.
Fire Blight Treatment Since there are no curing fire blight remedies, fire blight is very difficult to control; however, one fire blight treatment to reduce it is by spraying. A variety of bactericides has been developed to combat fire blight, although chemicals to treat fire blight may not always be effective. For instance, fixed copper products are often used as a fire blight treatment but this only reduces the bacteria’s ability to survive and reproduce. Always read and follow instructions carefully before using any chemicals to treat fire blight. Since chemicals aren’t always effective in fire blight control, organic control, such as extensive pruning may be the only option for fire blight treatment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Plant rust is a general term that refers to a rather large family of fungi that attack plants. Frequently, when a plant is affected by rust fungi, many gardeners feel at a loss as to what to do. Rust treatment as a plant disease is startling but can be treated.
Symptoms of Plant Rust
Rust fungi are very easy to identify on the plant. The disease can be characterized by a rust color on plant leaves and stems. The rust will start out as flecks and will eventually grow into bumps. The plant rust will most likely appear on the underside of the leaves of the plant. The good news is that there are so many kinds of rust fungi and they are so plant specific, that if you see the rust color on plant leaves of one type of plant, you will not see it appear any other types of plants in your yard.
Rust Treatment for This Plant Disease
For rust fungi, prevention is the best defense. Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not overwater your plants. Also, make sure your plants have good air circulation inside the branches and around the plant itself. This will help it dry its leaves faster. If plant rust does affect your plant, remove affected leaves at the first sign of rust color on plant leaves. The faster the affected leaves can be removed, the better chance your plant has for survival. Be sure to dispose of these leaves. Do not compost them. Then treat your plant with a fungicide, such as neem oil. Continue to remove leaves and treat the plant until all signs of the plant rust are gone.
Symptoms of Plant Rust
Rust fungi are very easy to identify on the plant. The disease can be characterized by a rust color on plant leaves and stems. The rust will start out as flecks and will eventually grow into bumps. The plant rust will most likely appear on the underside of the leaves of the plant. The good news is that there are so many kinds of rust fungi and they are so plant specific, that if you see the rust color on plant leaves of one type of plant, you will not see it appear any other types of plants in your yard.
Rust Treatment for This Plant Disease
For rust fungi, prevention is the best defense. Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not overwater your plants. Also, make sure your plants have good air circulation inside the branches and around the plant itself. This will help it dry its leaves faster. If plant rust does affect your plant, remove affected leaves at the first sign of rust color on plant leaves. The faster the affected leaves can be removed, the better chance your plant has for survival. Be sure to dispose of these leaves. Do not compost them. Then treat your plant with a fungicide, such as neem oil. Continue to remove leaves and treat the plant until all signs of the plant rust are gone.
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