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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Choanenphora wet rot control is essential for those of us who love to grow squash, cucumbers and other cucurbits. What is Choaneephora fruit rot? You may not know the disease as Choaenephora, but you probably know what blossom end rot is. It is evidenced by soft, rotting ends on squash and other cucurbits. The disease is caused by fungal mold and it isn’t easy to get rid of once you have it, but it is easy to prevent. What is Choanephora Fruit Rot? Choanephora wet rot in plants begins in the flowers, which will bear a powdery white residue. 
Once fruits begin to form and the flower withers away, the flower end of the fruit shows signs of mushiness and rot along with white or purplish powder. It progresses into the fruit, stunting growth and destroying much of the edible tissue. Once the disease is on your plants, it can spread quickly, so controlling Choanephora fruit rot immediately is essential to saving the crop. Choanephora fruit fungus can overwinter in garden debris. Fungal spores spread in spring by wind and insect movement. Warm, wet conditions encourage the growth of the fungus, which is one of the fastest growing fungal diseases. You can use a hand magnifier and see whisker-like growth on the fruit to differentiate it from another common fungal disease, Rhizopus soft rot. In areas with high humidity and moist conditions, the fungus can blight as much as 90 percent of a crop. Choanephora wet rot in plants is difficult to control because new flowers are forming daily and are newly susceptible to the spores. Choanephora Fruit Rot Treatment There is no prescribed Choanephora fruit rot treatment. Some growers suggest using fungicides, but these are only affective on the flowers that are treated. Over the course of a day or two, these flowers are replaced by new ones so you would be faced with treating the plant every couple of days. This is not a safe solution for developing fruits, so fungicides are, therefore, not considered useful. Some gardeners swear by the addition of calcium to soil to prevent the disease by adding Epsom salts or crushed eggshells to the soil at planting. This will certainly bolster the health of the plant but will not prevent spores from eating into the fruit.
Choanephora wet rot control actually begins when you are planning the vegetable garden. Before you plant a single seed, consider crop rotation. This will prevent any cucurbits from being planted in the same soil as the previous year where soil may be contaminated by the fungus. Space the plants well so there is plenty of air circulation to dry out the leaves and stems. Avoid irrigating overhead in the evening when plants cannot have time to dry off. Planting squash and other susceptible plants in raised beds with drip irrigation also seems to be helpful. Clean up infected plant debris. You may still get one or two infected fruits, but you should be able to save the bulk of the crop with these practices.
Once fruits begin to form and the flower withers away, the flower end of the fruit shows signs of mushiness and rot along with white or purplish powder. It progresses into the fruit, stunting growth and destroying much of the edible tissue. Once the disease is on your plants, it can spread quickly, so controlling Choanephora fruit rot immediately is essential to saving the crop. Choanephora fruit fungus can overwinter in garden debris. Fungal spores spread in spring by wind and insect movement. Warm, wet conditions encourage the growth of the fungus, which is one of the fastest growing fungal diseases. You can use a hand magnifier and see whisker-like growth on the fruit to differentiate it from another common fungal disease, Rhizopus soft rot. In areas with high humidity and moist conditions, the fungus can blight as much as 90 percent of a crop. Choanephora wet rot in plants is difficult to control because new flowers are forming daily and are newly susceptible to the spores. Choanephora Fruit Rot Treatment There is no prescribed Choanephora fruit rot treatment. Some growers suggest using fungicides, but these are only affective on the flowers that are treated. Over the course of a day or two, these flowers are replaced by new ones so you would be faced with treating the plant every couple of days. This is not a safe solution for developing fruits, so fungicides are, therefore, not considered useful. Some gardeners swear by the addition of calcium to soil to prevent the disease by adding Epsom salts or crushed eggshells to the soil at planting. This will certainly bolster the health of the plant but will not prevent spores from eating into the fruit.
Choanephora wet rot control actually begins when you are planning the vegetable garden. Before you plant a single seed, consider crop rotation. This will prevent any cucurbits from being planted in the same soil as the previous year where soil may be contaminated by the fungus. Space the plants well so there is plenty of air circulation to dry out the leaves and stems. Avoid irrigating overhead in the evening when plants cannot have time to dry off. Planting squash and other susceptible plants in raised beds with drip irrigation also seems to be helpful. Clean up infected plant debris. You may still get one or two infected fruits, but you should be able to save the bulk of the crop with these practices.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
If your raspberry bush buds die, the side shoots wilt and the canes fail, cane blight is probably the culprit. What is cane blight? It’s a disease that attacks all kinds of cane plants including black, purple and red raspberries. You’ll do best to start a defense against cane blight early by adopting good cultural practices. Read on for information about plants affected by cane blight and cane blight control.
What is Cane Blight? Cane blight is a disease that affects brambles. It is usually caused by the fungus Leptosphaeria coniothyrium, a fungus that can also attack roses and rot the fruit of apple and pear trees. The fungus can live all winter long on dead canes. Spores formed on these canes cause infection when rain, wind or insects carries them into damaged areas or wounds on the canes. A bacterial form of cane blight also exists. Bacterial cane blight is caused by an undetermined pathovar of the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae. Plants Affected by Cane Blight All bramble plants – that is, all Rubrus species – can be affected by cane blight. Perhaps the species most susceptible is black raspberry, but all raspberries can get it, as can roses. No cane-blight-resistant raspberry cultivars have been identified yet. In the meanwhile, choose less susceptible cultivars.
Cane Blight Symptoms You are most likely to see cane blight infections between late April and early May. Look for bud failure, lateral shoot wilt, and cane death. You are likely to first notice wilted foliage. Look carefully below this foliage for dark brown or purple cankers that can extend along the cane for several inches. Bacterial cane blight symptoms are similar to those of the fungus-caused disease. Red-brown discolorations appear on stems, then turn dark purple or black and necrotic. Cane Blight Control Control of cane blight is possible through both cultural and chemical means. Cultural You can help prevent fungal cane blight by using cultural practices that prevent damage to the canes. These include eliminating weed-whacking near the canes, controlling insect pests and limiting pruning. It also helps to try to keep the cane foliage dry, or aid its rapid drying.
For example, keeping fruiting rows narrow and weeded assists them in drying after a rain, as does thinning out weak canes. Also, you should take care with the cane site selection. You want the canes to have good drainage and air circulation. It’s also a good idea to dispose of old, diseased canes immediately after harvest. That prevents overwintering fungus. Chemical If the cane blight disease is getting the best of your brambles, apply an application of lime sulfur or copper to your dormant plants. Use liquid lime sulfur when new leaves arrive, and be sure to cover all of the canes thoroughly.
What is Cane Blight? Cane blight is a disease that affects brambles. It is usually caused by the fungus Leptosphaeria coniothyrium, a fungus that can also attack roses and rot the fruit of apple and pear trees. The fungus can live all winter long on dead canes. Spores formed on these canes cause infection when rain, wind or insects carries them into damaged areas or wounds on the canes. A bacterial form of cane blight also exists. Bacterial cane blight is caused by an undetermined pathovar of the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae. Plants Affected by Cane Blight All bramble plants – that is, all Rubrus species – can be affected by cane blight. Perhaps the species most susceptible is black raspberry, but all raspberries can get it, as can roses. No cane-blight-resistant raspberry cultivars have been identified yet. In the meanwhile, choose less susceptible cultivars.
Cane Blight Symptoms You are most likely to see cane blight infections between late April and early May. Look for bud failure, lateral shoot wilt, and cane death. You are likely to first notice wilted foliage. Look carefully below this foliage for dark brown or purple cankers that can extend along the cane for several inches. Bacterial cane blight symptoms are similar to those of the fungus-caused disease. Red-brown discolorations appear on stems, then turn dark purple or black and necrotic. Cane Blight Control Control of cane blight is possible through both cultural and chemical means. Cultural You can help prevent fungal cane blight by using cultural practices that prevent damage to the canes. These include eliminating weed-whacking near the canes, controlling insect pests and limiting pruning. It also helps to try to keep the cane foliage dry, or aid its rapid drying.
For example, keeping fruiting rows narrow and weeded assists them in drying after a rain, as does thinning out weak canes. Also, you should take care with the cane site selection. You want the canes to have good drainage and air circulation. It’s also a good idea to dispose of old, diseased canes immediately after harvest. That prevents overwintering fungus. Chemical If the cane blight disease is getting the best of your brambles, apply an application of lime sulfur or copper to your dormant plants. Use liquid lime sulfur when new leaves arrive, and be sure to cover all of the canes thoroughly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Cytospora canker disease generally attacks spruces, especially Colorado blue and Norway varieties, as well as peach trees, Douglas firs or hemlock trees. What is cytospora canker? It is a destructive disease caused by the fungus Leucostoma kunzei that disfigures and can even kill vulnerable trees. Read on for more information about symptoms of cytospora canker as well as cytospora canker treatment.
What is Cytospora Canker? You may not have heard of cytospora canker until after a tree in your backyard is infected. If you notice that the lower limbs on your tree are dying, the tree might have cytospora canker disease. It attacks older trees, stressed trees and those with shallow roots or planted in inappropriate sites. One of the first symptoms of cytospora canker disease on spruce is the browning of needles on the tree’s lower limbs. When they fall, you may notice light patches of resin on the dead bark of the branches.
Over several years, symptoms of cytospora canker spread and upper branches brown and die. Dead areas of bark appear, known as cankers. On trees without needles, like peach trees, look for cankers on branches around pruning wounds. They may be present for several years, extending along the branch, before they kill it. Control of Cytospora Canker You may look to fungicidal sprays as a cytospora canker treatment, but these are not effective and are not recommended by experts. Instead, try using organic methods for control of cytospora canker. Prevention is easier than cytospora canker treatment. Take care not to wound trees susceptible to this disease. Wounds, like those from weed whackers and saws, serve as entry points for the fungus. Crowded trees are more likely to get and pass along the fungus. Plant yours with lots of room and good air circulation.
Take every precaution to keep the trees healthy and strong. Water them during dry periods and fertilize them annually to provide nutrients. Vigorous trees are less likely to get attacked. Prune out any infected branches and burn them, since the fungus overwinters in cankered bark. Use bleach to disinfect the pruners before and after each use. The best time for pruning is late winter or early spring in dry, sunny weather.
What is Cytospora Canker? You may not have heard of cytospora canker until after a tree in your backyard is infected. If you notice that the lower limbs on your tree are dying, the tree might have cytospora canker disease. It attacks older trees, stressed trees and those with shallow roots or planted in inappropriate sites. One of the first symptoms of cytospora canker disease on spruce is the browning of needles on the tree’s lower limbs. When they fall, you may notice light patches of resin on the dead bark of the branches.
Over several years, symptoms of cytospora canker spread and upper branches brown and die. Dead areas of bark appear, known as cankers. On trees without needles, like peach trees, look for cankers on branches around pruning wounds. They may be present for several years, extending along the branch, before they kill it. Control of Cytospora Canker You may look to fungicidal sprays as a cytospora canker treatment, but these are not effective and are not recommended by experts. Instead, try using organic methods for control of cytospora canker. Prevention is easier than cytospora canker treatment. Take care not to wound trees susceptible to this disease. Wounds, like those from weed whackers and saws, serve as entry points for the fungus. Crowded trees are more likely to get and pass along the fungus. Plant yours with lots of room and good air circulation.
Take every precaution to keep the trees healthy and strong. Water them during dry periods and fertilize them annually to provide nutrients. Vigorous trees are less likely to get attacked. Prune out any infected branches and burn them, since the fungus overwinters in cankered bark. Use bleach to disinfect the pruners before and after each use. The best time for pruning is late winter or early spring in dry, sunny weather.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Diseases in plants can be very difficult to diagnose due to the nearly infinite numbers of pathogens. Phytoplasma disease in plants are generally seen as “yellows,” a form of disease common in many plant species. What is phytoplasma disease? Well, first you need to understand the phytoplasma life cycle and how they are spread. New studies indicate that phytoplasma effects on plants can mimic damage shown by psyllid insects or leaf roll virus. Phytoplasma Life Cycle Phytoplasmas infect plants and insects. They are spread by insects through their feeding activities which inject the pathogen into the phloem of the plants. 
The pathogen causes a host of symptoms, most of which are all potentially damaging to plant health. Phytoplasma live in the phloem cells of a plant and usually, but not always, cause disease symptoms. These tiny pests are actually bacteria with no cell wall or nucleus. As such, they have no way to store necessary compounds and must steal these from their host. Phytoplasma are parasitic in this way. Phytoplasma infect insect vectors and replicate within their host. In a plant, they are limited to the phloem where they replicate intracellularly. Phytoplasma cause changes in their insect and plant hosts. The changes in the plants are defined as diseases. There are 30 recognized insect species which transmit the disease to various plant species. Symptoms of Phytoplasma Phtoplasma disease in plants can take on several different symptoms. The most common phytoplasma effects on plants resemble the common “yellows” and can affect over 200 plant species, both monocots and dicots.
The insect vectors are often leafhoppers and cause such diseases as: Aster yellows Peach yellows Grapevine yellows Lime and peanut witches’ brooms Soybean purple stem Blueberry stunt The primary visible effect are yellowing leaves, stunted and rolled foliage and unripened shoots and fruits. Other symptoms of phytoplasma infection might be stunted plants, a “witches’ broom” appearance on terminal new bud growth, stunted roots, aerial tubers and even die back of entire portions of the plant. Over time, the disease can cause death in plants. Managing Phytoplasma Disease in Plants Controlling phytoplasma diseases usually begins with controlling insect vectors. This starts with good weed removal practices and clearing brush that can host insect vectors. Bacteria in one plant can also spread to other plants, so often removal of an infected plant is necessary to contain the contagion.
Symptoms appear in mid- to late summer. It can take 10 to 40 days for plants to exhibit infection after the insect has fed on it. Controlling leafhoppers and other host insects can help control the spread of the disease. Dry weather seems to increase leafhopper activity, so it is important to keep the plant watered. Good cultural care and practices will increase plant resistance and spread.
The pathogen causes a host of symptoms, most of which are all potentially damaging to plant health. Phytoplasma live in the phloem cells of a plant and usually, but not always, cause disease symptoms. These tiny pests are actually bacteria with no cell wall or nucleus. As such, they have no way to store necessary compounds and must steal these from their host. Phytoplasma are parasitic in this way. Phytoplasma infect insect vectors and replicate within their host. In a plant, they are limited to the phloem where they replicate intracellularly. Phytoplasma cause changes in their insect and plant hosts. The changes in the plants are defined as diseases. There are 30 recognized insect species which transmit the disease to various plant species. Symptoms of Phytoplasma Phtoplasma disease in plants can take on several different symptoms. The most common phytoplasma effects on plants resemble the common “yellows” and can affect over 200 plant species, both monocots and dicots.
The insect vectors are often leafhoppers and cause such diseases as: Aster yellows Peach yellows Grapevine yellows Lime and peanut witches’ brooms Soybean purple stem Blueberry stunt The primary visible effect are yellowing leaves, stunted and rolled foliage and unripened shoots and fruits. Other symptoms of phytoplasma infection might be stunted plants, a “witches’ broom” appearance on terminal new bud growth, stunted roots, aerial tubers and even die back of entire portions of the plant. Over time, the disease can cause death in plants. Managing Phytoplasma Disease in Plants Controlling phytoplasma diseases usually begins with controlling insect vectors. This starts with good weed removal practices and clearing brush that can host insect vectors. Bacteria in one plant can also spread to other plants, so often removal of an infected plant is necessary to contain the contagion.
Symptoms appear in mid- to late summer. It can take 10 to 40 days for plants to exhibit infection after the insect has fed on it. Controlling leafhoppers and other host insects can help control the spread of the disease. Dry weather seems to increase leafhopper activity, so it is important to keep the plant watered. Good cultural care and practices will increase plant resistance and spread.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Have you ever seen a tree, such as spruce, with healthy looking needles at the tips of the branches, but no needles at all as you look further down the branch? This is caused by needle cast disease. Find out more in this article. What is Needle Cast Disease? Needle cast diseases cause spruce trees to “cast off” their older needles and keep only the young needles at the tips of the branches. The tree becomes unattractive and may look as though it is dying, but don’t despair. Rhizosphaera and Stigmina, the two most common needle cast diseases of spruce trees, are treatable. You can have your tree looking lush and beautiful again within a few years by following a program of needle cast treatment. Stigmina and Rhizosphaera Needle Cast in Trees These diseases primarily affect blue spruce. If you have seen trees affected by needle cast disease in the area, avoid planting this highly susceptible tree.
Instead, consider planting Norway spruce, which is resistant. White spruce and other conifers, like pine and fir, are also susceptible. The first step is to get a reliable diagnosis. Experts recommend that you send a few diseased needles to a diagnostic laboratory where they can run tests to identify the problem. If you feel comfortable trying to identify the disease at home, here’s what to look for: Trees with Stigmina or Rizosphaera needle cast fungus have a distinctive appearance. The branches have green, healthy needles at the tips and diseased and dying needles toward the trunk.
The damage begins on lower branches and moves up the tree. Trees affected by needle cast disease have needles that turn yellowish in summer, gradually changing to purplish brown in late winter and spring. If you look at the needles with a hand lens, you’ll see rows of small black dots. These dots are the fruiting bodies of the fungus, and they are diagnostic of the disease. Rows of white dots are normal. Treat the tree by spraying with a fungicide twice in the spring and then once every four weeks during wet weather. Alternate between sprays with different active ingredients.
Copper and chlorothalonil are two active ingredients that are proven effective against the diseases. Keep in mind that these sprays are highly toxic to plants, animals and people. Follow the safety precautions on the label to the letter. Wear the recommended protective clothing, and read all instructions regarding mixing and applying the fungicide before you begin. Large trees are difficult to treat without help from a tree service.
Instead, consider planting Norway spruce, which is resistant. White spruce and other conifers, like pine and fir, are also susceptible. The first step is to get a reliable diagnosis. Experts recommend that you send a few diseased needles to a diagnostic laboratory where they can run tests to identify the problem. If you feel comfortable trying to identify the disease at home, here’s what to look for: Trees with Stigmina or Rizosphaera needle cast fungus have a distinctive appearance. The branches have green, healthy needles at the tips and diseased and dying needles toward the trunk.
The damage begins on lower branches and moves up the tree. Trees affected by needle cast disease have needles that turn yellowish in summer, gradually changing to purplish brown in late winter and spring. If you look at the needles with a hand lens, you’ll see rows of small black dots. These dots are the fruiting bodies of the fungus, and they are diagnostic of the disease. Rows of white dots are normal. Treat the tree by spraying with a fungicide twice in the spring and then once every four weeks during wet weather. Alternate between sprays with different active ingredients.
Copper and chlorothalonil are two active ingredients that are proven effective against the diseases. Keep in mind that these sprays are highly toxic to plants, animals and people. Follow the safety precautions on the label to the letter. Wear the recommended protective clothing, and read all instructions regarding mixing and applying the fungicide before you begin. Large trees are difficult to treat without help from a tree service.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
What is volutella blight on plants? Also known as leaf and stem blight, volutella blight is a destructive disease that affects pachysandra plants and boxwood shrubs. Early diagnosis and vigilant plant care are the keys to volutella blight control. Read on to learn about treating volutella blight. Volutella Blight Symptoms Initial symptoms, which appear in early spring, frequently resemble winter injury. Volutella blight symptoms begin with delayed emergence of new growth and patches of wilted, discolored, yellow, red or bronze leaves that gradually increase in size before turning black and falling from the plant.
Greenish-brown, water-soaked cankers girdle the stems, causing the plant to shrivel and wilt as the cankers turn dark black or brown. Pinkish fungal spores often appear during humid weather. Volutella Blight Treatment Prune damaged growth.
Wipe cutting tools with bleach solution or rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spread of disease. Shake or rake the plant to remove infected leaves, then destroy the debris. Although fungicide sprays won’t cure volutella blight, application of lime sulfur or copper sprays may help in case of severe infestations. Spray plants just before growth appears in spring, and then continue throughout the growing season as directed on the label. Plants may benefit from an additional volutella blight treatment in autumn to protect late summer growth. Remove plants if the blight is overly severe.
Replace them with more disease-resistant shrubs or ground covers. Volutella Blight Control and Prevention To prevent volutella blight, keep plants healthy and minimize stress with regular trimming, which improves air circulation and increases penetration of sunlight. Trim plants during dry weather. Water plants in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before temperatures drop later in the day, as volutella blight is more prevalent in wet, humid conditions. Avoid heavy mulch, which may keep the growing environment overly damp. Treat insect infestations as they appear, and clean beds and rake plant debris in autumn.
Greenish-brown, water-soaked cankers girdle the stems, causing the plant to shrivel and wilt as the cankers turn dark black or brown. Pinkish fungal spores often appear during humid weather. Volutella Blight Treatment Prune damaged growth.
Wipe cutting tools with bleach solution or rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spread of disease. Shake or rake the plant to remove infected leaves, then destroy the debris. Although fungicide sprays won’t cure volutella blight, application of lime sulfur or copper sprays may help in case of severe infestations. Spray plants just before growth appears in spring, and then continue throughout the growing season as directed on the label. Plants may benefit from an additional volutella blight treatment in autumn to protect late summer growth. Remove plants if the blight is overly severe.
Replace them with more disease-resistant shrubs or ground covers. Volutella Blight Control and Prevention To prevent volutella blight, keep plants healthy and minimize stress with regular trimming, which improves air circulation and increases penetration of sunlight. Trim plants during dry weather. Water plants in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before temperatures drop later in the day, as volutella blight is more prevalent in wet, humid conditions. Avoid heavy mulch, which may keep the growing environment overly damp. Treat insect infestations as they appear, and clean beds and rake plant debris in autumn.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Gardeners know that any manner of disease can befall their prized plants. In the case of Armillaria root rot, fungi are the underlying cause and the disease can be fatal. Armillaria root rot symptoms can by sly, starting out slowly with slowed growth and culminating with wood rot and mortality. Recognizing the disease and implementing a process of Armillaria root rot control can slow the disease. More information can be found by reading the article below. What is Armillaria Root Rot? Armillaria affects many ornamental and edible plants. What is Armillaria root rot? The disease is found through temperate and tropical regions of the world. Symptoms can be difficult to identify because the fungus responsible for the disease attacks roots deep in the soil. Once the disease has started to progress, it can be difficult or even impossible to arrest its effects. Armillaria stems from its mycelium harbored in the earth. The disease can persist for many years before above-ground symptoms emerge.
Typical Armillaria root rot symptoms can vary from species to species, making the disease even more difficult to nip in the bud. Additionally, the fungus spreads in groves or stands of trees from plant to plant through rhizomorphs, very similar to root rhizomes. It can also spread when mechanical soil movement occurs and transfers diseased wood chips. This makes the disease that much more insidious and challenging to manage. Armillaria Root Rot Symptoms One of the first symptoms of the disease is usually wilted, limp foliage. Leaves or needles yellow and fall, while upper limbs experience die-back. Definite diagnosis of the disease may involve cutting into the cambium of the affected tree.
The fungus appears in cambium as whitish in color and has a distinctly mushroom-like odor. Affected conifers may develop a bumper crop of cones, known as stress cones, and any sick tree is prone to attack by other disease and insect pests. Among the more interesting Armillaria root rot facts, is its natural presence in soil and symbiotic relationship with affected trees. Plants under environmental stress, other disease issues and in incorrect sites will be more quickly symptomatic than trees in excellent health. Armillaria root rot control depends upon early recognition of symptoms and superior cultural care of diseased plants. Treatment for Armillaria Root Rot Sadly, there is no absolute treatment for Armillaria root rot. The disease can be managed by consistent removal of dead trees and infected stumps.
Armillaria requires consistent moisture to survive, and in citrus groves, excavation around the root crown has been an effective deterrent but not an ultimate cure. Providing excellent care to trees has been shown to increase vigor and health, thereby reducing the plant’s symptoms. In large scale forests, affected stands are often removed and replanted with species that are naturally resistant to the disease. Occasionally, chemical fumigants are applied, reducing the spread of the disease. This practice isn’t practical for the home gardener, so cultural management, removal of infected plant material and good sanitation seem to be the best options in the home landscape.
Typical Armillaria root rot symptoms can vary from species to species, making the disease even more difficult to nip in the bud. Additionally, the fungus spreads in groves or stands of trees from plant to plant through rhizomorphs, very similar to root rhizomes. It can also spread when mechanical soil movement occurs and transfers diseased wood chips. This makes the disease that much more insidious and challenging to manage. Armillaria Root Rot Symptoms One of the first symptoms of the disease is usually wilted, limp foliage. Leaves or needles yellow and fall, while upper limbs experience die-back. Definite diagnosis of the disease may involve cutting into the cambium of the affected tree.
The fungus appears in cambium as whitish in color and has a distinctly mushroom-like odor. Affected conifers may develop a bumper crop of cones, known as stress cones, and any sick tree is prone to attack by other disease and insect pests. Among the more interesting Armillaria root rot facts, is its natural presence in soil and symbiotic relationship with affected trees. Plants under environmental stress, other disease issues and in incorrect sites will be more quickly symptomatic than trees in excellent health. Armillaria root rot control depends upon early recognition of symptoms and superior cultural care of diseased plants. Treatment for Armillaria Root Rot Sadly, there is no absolute treatment for Armillaria root rot. The disease can be managed by consistent removal of dead trees and infected stumps.
Armillaria requires consistent moisture to survive, and in citrus groves, excavation around the root crown has been an effective deterrent but not an ultimate cure. Providing excellent care to trees has been shown to increase vigor and health, thereby reducing the plant’s symptoms. In large scale forests, affected stands are often removed and replanted with species that are naturally resistant to the disease. Occasionally, chemical fumigants are applied, reducing the spread of the disease. This practice isn’t practical for the home gardener, so cultural management, removal of infected plant material and good sanitation seem to be the best options in the home landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Cedar hawthorn rust is a serious disease of hawthorn and juniper trees. There is no cure for the disease, but you can prevent its spread. Find out how to control cedar hawthorn rust in this article. What is Cedar Hawthorn Rust? Caused by a fungus called Gymnosporangium globosum, Cedar hawthorn rust disease is a disfiguring condition of hawthornsand junipers. Although it rarely kills trees, the trees never recover from the damage. You can prune out the worst of it, but once it affects the entire tree, your only choices are to learn to live with it or take the tree down. 
In addition to the rust-colored spots on the leaves, hawthorns may have rusty-looking “fingers” projecting from the fruit. The leaves may yellow and drop from the tree. Junipers develop woody galls that also have rusty fingers. If you recognize and treat the disease early, you may be able to enjoy your tree for several more years.
Cedar Hawthorn Rust Treatment When a tree has visible symptoms of cedar hawthorn rust, it is too late to save the tree. Focus on slowing its progress and preventing it from spreading to other trees in the surrounding area. The fungal spores that infect additional trees are blown about on the wind, so most new infections occur within a few hundred feet of an infected tree. That said, spores have been known to travel a few miles. It’s best to err on the side of caution when deciding whether or not to use preventative treatment on a tree. The two-part life cycle of cedar hawthorn rust disease involves both hawthorns and junipers. Infected hawthorns develop reddish-brown spots (rust) on the leaves and junipers have galls with fingers extending from them. Remove the galls in winter to help prevent spread and never plant junipers near hawthorns.
Although you can’t cure an infected tree, you can prune out infected parts of the tree to improve its health and appearance. Remove entire branches wherever possible. This not only benefits the infected tree, but also reduces the number of spores capable of spreading the infection. Moisture around hawthorn and juniper trees encourages the fungus. Reduce moisture by making sure air circulates freely around the tree. You may be able to accomplish this through pruning. When watering the tree, direct the spray toward the soil rather than the branches. Protect trees from infection by spraying in spring and early summer with an approved fungicide. Both chlorothalonil and mancozeb are registered for use against cedar rust disease on hawthorns. Follow the label instructions and spray the tree until the fungicide drips from the branches. Spray junipers with a Bordeaux mixture every two weeks beginning in midsummer.
In addition to the rust-colored spots on the leaves, hawthorns may have rusty-looking “fingers” projecting from the fruit. The leaves may yellow and drop from the tree. Junipers develop woody galls that also have rusty fingers. If you recognize and treat the disease early, you may be able to enjoy your tree for several more years.
Cedar Hawthorn Rust Treatment When a tree has visible symptoms of cedar hawthorn rust, it is too late to save the tree. Focus on slowing its progress and preventing it from spreading to other trees in the surrounding area. The fungal spores that infect additional trees are blown about on the wind, so most new infections occur within a few hundred feet of an infected tree. That said, spores have been known to travel a few miles. It’s best to err on the side of caution when deciding whether or not to use preventative treatment on a tree. The two-part life cycle of cedar hawthorn rust disease involves both hawthorns and junipers. Infected hawthorns develop reddish-brown spots (rust) on the leaves and junipers have galls with fingers extending from them. Remove the galls in winter to help prevent spread and never plant junipers near hawthorns.
Although you can’t cure an infected tree, you can prune out infected parts of the tree to improve its health and appearance. Remove entire branches wherever possible. This not only benefits the infected tree, but also reduces the number of spores capable of spreading the infection. Moisture around hawthorn and juniper trees encourages the fungus. Reduce moisture by making sure air circulates freely around the tree. You may be able to accomplish this through pruning. When watering the tree, direct the spray toward the soil rather than the branches. Protect trees from infection by spraying in spring and early summer with an approved fungicide. Both chlorothalonil and mancozeb are registered for use against cedar rust disease on hawthorns. Follow the label instructions and spray the tree until the fungicide drips from the branches. Spray junipers with a Bordeaux mixture every two weeks beginning in midsummer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
What is algal leaf spot and what do you do about it? Read on to learn about symptoms of algal leaf spot and tips on algal leaf spot control. What is Algal Leaf Spot? Algal leaf spot disease, also known as green scurf, is caused by Cephaleuros virescens, a type of parasitic algae. Algal leaf spot disease spores, which are spread by rain, create a big problem for more than 200 plant species, especially plants growing in warm, humid climates. Susceptible plants include those that have leathery leaves such as:Magnolia Camellia Boxwood Crepe myrtle Azalea Bougainvillea Wisteria Rhododendron Viburnum.
Recognizing Symptoms of Algal Leaf Spot Algal leaf spot disease is marked by rough, net-like orange, brown, gray or green blotches on the leaves, each measuring about ½ inch in diameter or less. However, blotches that grow together take on the appearance of larger blotches. Although the disease affects primarily foliage, it sometimes impacts branches and twigs, causing a stunted appearance with reddish-brown or pale green lesions.
Algal Leaf Spot Control Algal leaf spot disease is rarely deadly and the problems are mostly cosmetic. Unless the outbreak is severe, non-chemical strategies for treating algal leaf spot are usually adequate: Keep plants as healthy as possible, as well-managed plants are less susceptible to disease. Maintain proper soil drainage and water, and fertilize as needed. Prune plants to improve air circulation and access to sunlight.
Trim around the plants to reduce the humidity level, including overhanging trees that create too much shade. Rake up and dispose of leaves and debris under and around the affected plant. Discard of infected debris carefully to prevent spread of the disease. Keep in mind that the algae can survive on fallen leaves during the winter months. Water at the base of the plant. Avoid wetting the leaves as much as possible. Apply a Bordeaux mixture or copper-based fungicide if the plant is seriously infected. Repeat every two weeks during cool, damp weather.
Recognizing Symptoms of Algal Leaf Spot Algal leaf spot disease is marked by rough, net-like orange, brown, gray or green blotches on the leaves, each measuring about ½ inch in diameter or less. However, blotches that grow together take on the appearance of larger blotches. Although the disease affects primarily foliage, it sometimes impacts branches and twigs, causing a stunted appearance with reddish-brown or pale green lesions.
Algal Leaf Spot Control Algal leaf spot disease is rarely deadly and the problems are mostly cosmetic. Unless the outbreak is severe, non-chemical strategies for treating algal leaf spot are usually adequate: Keep plants as healthy as possible, as well-managed plants are less susceptible to disease. Maintain proper soil drainage and water, and fertilize as needed. Prune plants to improve air circulation and access to sunlight.
Trim around the plants to reduce the humidity level, including overhanging trees that create too much shade. Rake up and dispose of leaves and debris under and around the affected plant. Discard of infected debris carefully to prevent spread of the disease. Keep in mind that the algae can survive on fallen leaves during the winter months. Water at the base of the plant. Avoid wetting the leaves as much as possible. Apply a Bordeaux mixture or copper-based fungicide if the plant is seriously infected. Repeat every two weeks during cool, damp weather.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
One of the more common diseases of lima beans is called pod blight of lima beans. Pod blight in lima bean plants can cause serious losses in yield. 
What causes this lima bean disease and what methods of control are there for lime bean blight? Symptoms of Pod Blight in Lima Bean Plants Symptoms of pod blight of lima beans first manifests as irregular, brown eruptions on fallen petioles in mid-season, and on pods and stems close to maturity. These small, raised pustules are called pycnidia and in wet seasons may cover the entire plant. The upper portions of the plant may yellow and die. Seeds that have become infected may look completely normal or will crack, shrivel and become moldy. Infected seeds often do not germinate. Symptoms of this lima bean disease may be confused with those of anthracnose, as both of these diseases of lima beans occur late in the season.
Conditions Favorable for Lima Bean Blight Pod blight is caused by the fungus Diaporthe phaseolorum, which overwinters in infested crop detritus and in infected seeds. Spores are transferred to plants via wind or splashed water. Thus, although infection can occur throughout the season, this fungus thrives in wet, warm conditions. Pod Blight Control Since the disease overwinters in crop detritus, practice good garden sanitation and clear the beds of any lingering crop debris. Remove any weeds that may also harbor the disease.
Only use seed that is grown in the western United States and use a high quality disease free seed. Do not save seed from the previous year if the disease was evident in the crop. Rotate the crop with non-host crops on a 2 year rotation. Using a copper-type fungicide on a regular basis will help control the disease.
What causes this lima bean disease and what methods of control are there for lime bean blight? Symptoms of Pod Blight in Lima Bean Plants Symptoms of pod blight of lima beans first manifests as irregular, brown eruptions on fallen petioles in mid-season, and on pods and stems close to maturity. These small, raised pustules are called pycnidia and in wet seasons may cover the entire plant. The upper portions of the plant may yellow and die. Seeds that have become infected may look completely normal or will crack, shrivel and become moldy. Infected seeds often do not germinate. Symptoms of this lima bean disease may be confused with those of anthracnose, as both of these diseases of lima beans occur late in the season.
Conditions Favorable for Lima Bean Blight Pod blight is caused by the fungus Diaporthe phaseolorum, which overwinters in infested crop detritus and in infected seeds. Spores are transferred to plants via wind or splashed water. Thus, although infection can occur throughout the season, this fungus thrives in wet, warm conditions. Pod Blight Control Since the disease overwinters in crop detritus, practice good garden sanitation and clear the beds of any lingering crop debris. Remove any weeds that may also harbor the disease.
Only use seed that is grown in the western United States and use a high quality disease free seed. Do not save seed from the previous year if the disease was evident in the crop. Rotate the crop with non-host crops on a 2 year rotation. Using a copper-type fungicide on a regular basis will help control the disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Fungus happens. Even the most experienced and dedicated gardeners will experience fungal disease on plants at some point. Fungus can affect plants in any climate and hardiness zone because, like plants, certain fungal spores grow better in different climates.
Even new disease resistant varieties can suffer from these issues. As gardeners, we can choose to spend a fortune on different chemicals that can have residual effects to treat different symptoms or we can use a natural based product that has been used by growers and breeders for hundreds of years.
What is Lime Sulfur? Lime sulfur is a mixture of calcium hydroxide and sulfur. In horticultural dormant sprays, lime sulfur is usually mixed with an oil, like mineral oil, to make it stick to plant surfaces. These horticultural oil sprays contain a high concentration of lime sulfur that is only safe to use on plants that are dormant because the sulfur can burn leaf tissues. Lime sulfur can also be mixed in much weaker concentration with water for use when plants have leafed out. Even in lower concentrations and diluted with water, it is important not to spray lime sulfur on plants during hot, sunny days, as the sulfur can cause sunscald on plants. With warnings like this, you may wonder is lime sulfur safe? When used properly, lime sulfur is a safe and effective treatment of fungal diseases such as: Powdery mildew Anthracnose Black spot Blights Black rot As a horticultural dormant spray, lime sulfur is safe to use even on fruits that include: Raspberries Blackberries Blueberries Apples Peaches Pears Plums Cherries Lime sulfur is also used to treat fungal diseases of ornamental plants like: Roses Dogwoods Ninebark Phlox Rudbeckia.
How and to Use Lime Sulfur Fungal disease spores can overwinter in cracks or fissures on plants or in soil and garden debris. For this reason, lime sulfur is used in high concentrates mixed with oil as a horticultural dormant spray. When to use lime sulfur this way is in late winter or early spring before the plant begins to leaf out. It is also a good idea to spray the soil around plants that have been previously infected or are prone to infection. For perennials or plants that are showing new signs of fungal diseases, lime sulfur can be mixed with water and sprayed on plants anytime except for hot, sunny days. The mixing ratio is 1 tsp. per gallon of water. Spray all surfaces of the plant thoroughly. Allow the mixture to sit on the plants for 15-20 minutes. Then thoroughly rinse the plants with just clear water. Occasionally, you will notice the bottom portion of tree trunks covered with white latex paint. Sometimes, this contains a diluted mixture of lime sulfur.
Even new disease resistant varieties can suffer from these issues. As gardeners, we can choose to spend a fortune on different chemicals that can have residual effects to treat different symptoms or we can use a natural based product that has been used by growers and breeders for hundreds of years.
What is Lime Sulfur? Lime sulfur is a mixture of calcium hydroxide and sulfur. In horticultural dormant sprays, lime sulfur is usually mixed with an oil, like mineral oil, to make it stick to plant surfaces. These horticultural oil sprays contain a high concentration of lime sulfur that is only safe to use on plants that are dormant because the sulfur can burn leaf tissues. Lime sulfur can also be mixed in much weaker concentration with water for use when plants have leafed out. Even in lower concentrations and diluted with water, it is important not to spray lime sulfur on plants during hot, sunny days, as the sulfur can cause sunscald on plants. With warnings like this, you may wonder is lime sulfur safe? When used properly, lime sulfur is a safe and effective treatment of fungal diseases such as: Powdery mildew Anthracnose Black spot Blights Black rot As a horticultural dormant spray, lime sulfur is safe to use even on fruits that include: Raspberries Blackberries Blueberries Apples Peaches Pears Plums Cherries Lime sulfur is also used to treat fungal diseases of ornamental plants like: Roses Dogwoods Ninebark Phlox Rudbeckia.
How and to Use Lime Sulfur Fungal disease spores can overwinter in cracks or fissures on plants or in soil and garden debris. For this reason, lime sulfur is used in high concentrates mixed with oil as a horticultural dormant spray. When to use lime sulfur this way is in late winter or early spring before the plant begins to leaf out. It is also a good idea to spray the soil around plants that have been previously infected or are prone to infection. For perennials or plants that are showing new signs of fungal diseases, lime sulfur can be mixed with water and sprayed on plants anytime except for hot, sunny days. The mixing ratio is 1 tsp. per gallon of water. Spray all surfaces of the plant thoroughly. Allow the mixture to sit on the plants for 15-20 minutes. Then thoroughly rinse the plants with just clear water. Occasionally, you will notice the bottom portion of tree trunks covered with white latex paint. Sometimes, this contains a diluted mixture of lime sulfur.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Aphids
Aphids can weaken peanut plants as well as spread disease. The 1/16-inch-long light green bugs multiply rapidly, and by sucking sap from plants can cause considerable damage in a short time. Check the plants regularly and control aphids with insecticidal soap sprays.
Leaf Spot
Leaf spot is a fungus that's especially prevalent in areas where the weather is warm and moist. Small spots with light centers appear on plant leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. To control leaf spot, rotate crops, plant certified disease-free seeds, remove and burn damaged leaves, and stay away from plants when they're wet.
Nematodes
Nematodes are microscopic eel-like creatures that can be beneficial or harmful. Several species of nematodes plague southern gardeners, stunting plant growth, killing root systems and cutting down yields. In addition to feeding on plant roots, they may also carry and spread disease. Stunted, yellowed and wilted plants are symptomatic of nematode damage. Preventive measures include crop rotation and adding loads of organic matter to your garden before planting. For information on nematode control in your area, contact your Extension Service agent.
Leafhoppers
Potato leafhoppers suck on the undersides of leaves, spreading diseases and causing the tips of peanut leaves to turn yellow. These tiny green insects are sometimes referred to as "sharpshooters" because of their wedgelike shape. To prevent leafhopper damage, control weeds around your garden and cover plants with floating row covers. If leafhoppers succeed in infesting your plants, spray with pyrethrum.
Rootworms
Southern corn rootworms bore into young plants and feed on peanut pegs and pods in the soil. These insects can slow healthy growth or even kill entire peanut plants. They're about 1/2 inch long, slender and yellowish white with a brown head. This pest is the larval stage of the spotted cucumber beetle. To control corn rootworms, treat your soil with beneficial nematodes.
Thrips
Thrips are microscopic pests that can transmit diseases among vegetables - especially in hot, humid climates. If you notice damage in the form of whitish patches on leaves, control with insecticidal soap or destroy severely infested plants.
Grubs
White grubs live in the soil and feed on the underground parts of peanut plants. The larvae are smooth and grayish white with hard brown heads. Mature grubs have curved 1/2- to one-inch-long bodies with six prominent legs. Control grub damage by growing green manure crops and by not planting peanuts where grass recently grew. Treat the soil with beneficial nematodes or milky spore powder.
Wireworms
Wireworms vary in color from dark brown to pale yellow and reach 1/2 to 1-1/4 inches long when fully grown. Their segmented bodies are hard and shiny, and like white grubs, wireworms feed on roots and other underground parts of peanut plants. Control wireworms with beneficial nematodes.
Aphids can weaken peanut plants as well as spread disease. The 1/16-inch-long light green bugs multiply rapidly, and by sucking sap from plants can cause considerable damage in a short time. Check the plants regularly and control aphids with insecticidal soap sprays.
Leaf Spot
Leaf spot is a fungus that's especially prevalent in areas where the weather is warm and moist. Small spots with light centers appear on plant leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. To control leaf spot, rotate crops, plant certified disease-free seeds, remove and burn damaged leaves, and stay away from plants when they're wet.
Nematodes
Nematodes are microscopic eel-like creatures that can be beneficial or harmful. Several species of nematodes plague southern gardeners, stunting plant growth, killing root systems and cutting down yields. In addition to feeding on plant roots, they may also carry and spread disease. Stunted, yellowed and wilted plants are symptomatic of nematode damage. Preventive measures include crop rotation and adding loads of organic matter to your garden before planting. For information on nematode control in your area, contact your Extension Service agent.
Leafhoppers
Potato leafhoppers suck on the undersides of leaves, spreading diseases and causing the tips of peanut leaves to turn yellow. These tiny green insects are sometimes referred to as "sharpshooters" because of their wedgelike shape. To prevent leafhopper damage, control weeds around your garden and cover plants with floating row covers. If leafhoppers succeed in infesting your plants, spray with pyrethrum.
Rootworms
Southern corn rootworms bore into young plants and feed on peanut pegs and pods in the soil. These insects can slow healthy growth or even kill entire peanut plants. They're about 1/2 inch long, slender and yellowish white with a brown head. This pest is the larval stage of the spotted cucumber beetle. To control corn rootworms, treat your soil with beneficial nematodes.
Thrips
Thrips are microscopic pests that can transmit diseases among vegetables - especially in hot, humid climates. If you notice damage in the form of whitish patches on leaves, control with insecticidal soap or destroy severely infested plants.
Grubs
White grubs live in the soil and feed on the underground parts of peanut plants. The larvae are smooth and grayish white with hard brown heads. Mature grubs have curved 1/2- to one-inch-long bodies with six prominent legs. Control grub damage by growing green manure crops and by not planting peanuts where grass recently grew. Treat the soil with beneficial nematodes or milky spore powder.
Wireworms
Wireworms vary in color from dark brown to pale yellow and reach 1/2 to 1-1/4 inches long when fully grown. Their segmented bodies are hard and shiny, and like white grubs, wireworms feed on roots and other underground parts of peanut plants. Control wireworms with beneficial nematodes.
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求助
FieryFlame
2017年07月11日
Anyone please let me know what is the spots on my sweet potato leaves? Is it normal or disease? Many thanks
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fekorod：可能是无机盐析出（比如碳酸钙
求助
Hong Lam
2017年03月19日
Anyone know what's going on here? Quite a few leaves are getting yellow and are drooping off, but the base and veins still look green. The rest of the plant is still nice and glossy and healthy but I don't know if this is a disease spreading or something like that.
It's a gardenia Plant. I've just started fertilizing once a week for the past two weeks. #Gardeniajasminoides #Medium
It's a gardenia Plant. I've just started fertilizing once a week for the past two weeks. #Gardeniajasminoides #Medium
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我是小花：Hello! The number of fertilizing doesn't have to be too much, it can be reduced to just a few times a month! And the concentration of fertilizers must be lower. I feel that the control should be improved!
文章
小马奥
2017年02月22日
Not only the #vegetables but #fruits can be grown in pots too. Here are 14 best fruits to #grow in pots.
Buy a disease free potted plant from a reputed nursery or online and start in a small to medium sized pot (3-5 gallons) and then repot the plant gradually into the bigger ones. A 20-25 gallon size pot is an ideal one for a fruit tree in the container.
Best Fruits To Grow In Pots1. Lemon
USDA Zones— 8-11, *can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Lemon trees have adapted themselves for container gardening. However, it is a tropical fruit but gardeners in cool temperate regions are also successfully growing this tangy and sour fruit in containers. Almost all the varieties are suitable but there are some that grows best in specific conditions. Read the information given in this article to grow your own lemon tree.
2. Strawberries
Strawberries are without a doubt one of the best fruits to grow in pots. The best about growing strawberries in containers is they are easy to grow, don’t require large pots or space and you can grow on your small urban balcony. You can also try to grow strawberries in tropics in winters. Check out our guide on growing strawberries here.
3. Apple
Dwarf apple trees are very suitable for growing in pots, you can even keep on a balcony or small terrace. When growing an apple tree in such a small space it would be better if you choose a self-fertile variety so that you don’t need to grow more than one plant. All the other requirements for growing apple tree in a pot is available here.
4. Pomegranate
*can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Pomegranate is one of the juiciest and healthiest fruits and perhaps the easiest to grow in pots because it has shallow root system when compared to other large fruit trees. If you’ve grown citrus in pot, growing pomegranates in containers can not be difficult for you too. Moreover, pomegranate is more cold hardy and easy to grow. Learn how to grow it in pot in this article.
5. Fig
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As figs are most suitable for warm temperate regions (USDA Zones 8-10) it is best to grow a fig tree in a pot if you live in a climate where winters are harsh or you don’t have enough space. Choose an appropriate variety to grow in a pot and provide plenty of sun to your plant. Regular pruning and fertilization are necessary.
6. Nectarines and Peaches
Both the nectarines and peaches are available in dwarf varieties. Most of these dwarf varieties don’t exceed the height of 6-8 feet and are self-fertile. Some dwarf peach varieties are “Golden Gem”, “El Dorado”, “Garden Gold” and “Southern Sweet”. Dwarf nectarine varieties you can grow in pots are “Nectarcrest”, “Fantasia”.
7. Cherry
Bush cherry cultivars are suitable for container gardening. Cherries prefer a mild climate and a little water as it dislikes wet feet. However, drought and high temperatures could damage the plant as well, but it survives well in the cold. The cherry tree favors a soil that is well drained and composed of plenty of organic matter.
8. Guava
*can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Guava tree will delight you with its sweetly scented flowers, delicious fruits, and beautiful tropical appearance. Guava loves the sunny and warm exposure. It is a tropical plant but very much adaptable to temperate climates with moderate winter. Learn how you can grow guava tree in pot here.
9. Watermelon
Watermelons are easy to grow in pots, all they need is a good support and well-drained potting soil. Growing watermelon is similar to cucumbers, you can find out all the information in our article.
10. Banana
Growing banana in a pot is easy and its lush green appearance can give any place a tropical look and feel. Banana trees grow in tropical and subtropical parts of the world and therefore they love full sun, heat and humidity. However, there are cultivars available that are mildly cold hardy and suitable for warm temperate zones. Find out how to grow it in a pot here.
11. Pineapple
Pineapple plants are small and compact and never grow more than 3-6 feet tall. Also, the plant has shallow roots when compared to other fruit bearing plants or trees that’s why it is possible to grow them in pots. However, pineapples require consistently warm and humid climate to thrive but you can also grow them as a houseplant in temperates, providing several hours of direct sunlight daily.
12. Raspberries
Raspberries are bit tricky and unruly to grow in containers but still everbearing varieties like “Heritage”, “Raspberry Shortcake” and “Fall Gold” are a good choice. All these varieties are self-fertile and easy to grow in pots. Here’s a useful article on growing raspberry in containers.
13. Blueberries
Growing blueberries in pots is a good idea if the soil in your garden is not acidic. Providing a potting mix for Azaleas and camellias or other acid loving plants and a large pot is essential so that your blueberry plant will grow easily and provide fruit for years.
14. Oranges and Citruses
All the oranges and citruses can be grown in pots as they are rather large shrubs or small trees. If you live in a climate where winters are mild these fruits are really easy to grow, however, you can still grow an orange tree in a cold climate with care in winter. In pots, you can grow calamondin, buddha’s hand citron, clementines orange etc.
Buy a disease free potted plant from a reputed nursery or online and start in a small to medium sized pot (3-5 gallons) and then repot the plant gradually into the bigger ones. A 20-25 gallon size pot is an ideal one for a fruit tree in the container.
Best Fruits To Grow In Pots1. Lemon
USDA Zones— 8-11, *can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Lemon trees have adapted themselves for container gardening. However, it is a tropical fruit but gardeners in cool temperate regions are also successfully growing this tangy and sour fruit in containers. Almost all the varieties are suitable but there are some that grows best in specific conditions. Read the information given in this article to grow your own lemon tree.
2. Strawberries
Strawberries are without a doubt one of the best fruits to grow in pots. The best about growing strawberries in containers is they are easy to grow, don’t require large pots or space and you can grow on your small urban balcony. You can also try to grow strawberries in tropics in winters. Check out our guide on growing strawberries here.
3. Apple
Dwarf apple trees are very suitable for growing in pots, you can even keep on a balcony or small terrace. When growing an apple tree in such a small space it would be better if you choose a self-fertile variety so that you don’t need to grow more than one plant. All the other requirements for growing apple tree in a pot is available here.
4. Pomegranate
*can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Pomegranate is one of the juiciest and healthiest fruits and perhaps the easiest to grow in pots because it has shallow root system when compared to other large fruit trees. If you’ve grown citrus in pot, growing pomegranates in containers can not be difficult for you too. Moreover, pomegranate is more cold hardy and easy to grow. Learn how to grow it in pot in this article.
5. Fig
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As figs are most suitable for warm temperate regions (USDA Zones 8-10) it is best to grow a fig tree in a pot if you live in a climate where winters are harsh or you don’t have enough space. Choose an appropriate variety to grow in a pot and provide plenty of sun to your plant. Regular pruning and fertilization are necessary.
6. Nectarines and Peaches
Both the nectarines and peaches are available in dwarf varieties. Most of these dwarf varieties don’t exceed the height of 6-8 feet and are self-fertile. Some dwarf peach varieties are “Golden Gem”, “El Dorado”, “Garden Gold” and “Southern Sweet”. Dwarf nectarine varieties you can grow in pots are “Nectarcrest”, “Fantasia”.
7. Cherry
Bush cherry cultivars are suitable for container gardening. Cherries prefer a mild climate and a little water as it dislikes wet feet. However, drought and high temperatures could damage the plant as well, but it survives well in the cold. The cherry tree favors a soil that is well drained and composed of plenty of organic matter.
8. Guava
*can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Guava tree will delight you with its sweetly scented flowers, delicious fruits, and beautiful tropical appearance. Guava loves the sunny and warm exposure. It is a tropical plant but very much adaptable to temperate climates with moderate winter. Learn how you can grow guava tree in pot here.
9. Watermelon
Watermelons are easy to grow in pots, all they need is a good support and well-drained potting soil. Growing watermelon is similar to cucumbers, you can find out all the information in our article.
10. Banana
Growing banana in a pot is easy and its lush green appearance can give any place a tropical look and feel. Banana trees grow in tropical and subtropical parts of the world and therefore they love full sun, heat and humidity. However, there are cultivars available that are mildly cold hardy and suitable for warm temperate zones. Find out how to grow it in a pot here.
11. Pineapple
Pineapple plants are small and compact and never grow more than 3-6 feet tall. Also, the plant has shallow roots when compared to other fruit bearing plants or trees that’s why it is possible to grow them in pots. However, pineapples require consistently warm and humid climate to thrive but you can also grow them as a houseplant in temperates, providing several hours of direct sunlight daily.
12. Raspberries
Raspberries are bit tricky and unruly to grow in containers but still everbearing varieties like “Heritage”, “Raspberry Shortcake” and “Fall Gold” are a good choice. All these varieties are self-fertile and easy to grow in pots. Here’s a useful article on growing raspberry in containers.
13. Blueberries
Growing blueberries in pots is a good idea if the soil in your garden is not acidic. Providing a potting mix for Azaleas and camellias or other acid loving plants and a large pot is essential so that your blueberry plant will grow easily and provide fruit for years.
14. Oranges and Citruses
All the oranges and citruses can be grown in pots as they are rather large shrubs or small trees. If you live in a climate where winters are mild these fruits are really easy to grow, however, you can still grow an orange tree in a cold climate with care in winter. In pots, you can grow calamondin, buddha’s hand citron, clementines orange etc.
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