文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月07日
Beefsteak tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum "Beefsteak") are meaty, juicy fruits perfect for summer sandwiches or as sliced snacks with a sprinkle of sea salt. Large, thickly fleshed beefsteaks are the biggest type of tomatoes, weighing 1 pound or more. Growing quickly to at least 6 feet tall, the late-maturing tomato plant will produce a bountiful harvest in about 85 days. It needs a sturdy cage, trellis, or stake to support its fruit. Learn to grow and care for this abundant plant and welcome a plentiful harvest to your vegetable garden.
Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum "Beefsteak"
Common Name Beefsteak Tomatoes
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Mature Size 6 feet tall or more
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Bloom Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 2-11, USDA
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Foliage (not fruit) is toxic to humans and some pets
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Beefsteak Tomato Care and Trellising
Space tomato plants at least 18 to 36 inches apart. Beefsteak varieties are especially tall and require lots of space and training. For optimal growth and air circulation, space 5 feet or more apart. Tie the plant to a trellis, stake, or cage. They usually grow too tall for a typical tomato cage, so they will need extra support as their baseball-sized fruit can be quite heavy.
Dig a 10- to 12-inch deep hole for each plant and consider using a post-hole digger. Establish a post or stake down the center of the row between the two end posts at each end of the row if end posts are more than 20 feet apart. Posts that are 3 inches in diameter and 6 feet tall are ideal. Replace the dirt and pack it in firmly so that the posts do not fall over.
Wrap a 12-gauge wire around the top of one end post about 6 feet above the soil surface. Nail or staple the end of the wire to the post. Stretch the wire to make it taut, extend it to the next post, and keep the post anchored in place. Tie a second wire between the posts about 12 inches above the ground.
Tie twine to the bottom wire and stretch it to the top wire. Tie the other end to the top. Attach any additional lengths of twine for each plant and space the twine 36 inches apart on the length of the trellis.
Once the trellis system is ready, plant a seedling at the base of each length of twine. Plant each seedling deeper than it was growing in its starter pot. Establish deep enough so that the bottom leaf is just above the soil surface. Do this by planting it straight into the soil or sideways to encourage healthy rooting. Beefsteaks thrive most if planted deeper in the ground rather than being planted in containers.
As the plant grows, you should prune it regularly. As side branches form on the main stem, pinch out "suckers" or new growth when they are young and only 1/2 inch long that form in the crotch of the stronger branches. Do this weekly throughout the growing season to ensure that the plant develops no more than one or two main stems. This will make it easier for the plant to grow on the trellis, and it will slow upward growth and promote better branching. As the stem grows, wrap it around the twine in the same direction each time. Handle the stem carefully so that it doesn't break.
Light
Give beefsteak tomatoes full, direct sunlight 8 hours or more per day. Make sure no shadows are cast by nearby buildings or trees. For best results, grow them on a slight slope with southern or southeastern exposure. A well-drained raised garden bed is especially good in cooler climates because it will warm early in the season.
Soil
As for all tomato plants, provide beefsteaks with well-drained fertile soil that is high in organic matter. Fertile clay and loam produce high yields, while lighter soils drain and warm quickly and will produce earlier harvests. Maintain a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Keep the bed weeded, and mulch between rows of tomatoes to prevent weed overgrowth and to conserve moisture. Black plastic mulch will warm the soil and radiate heat.
Water
After planting, water immediately to moisten and settle the soil. Throughout the growing season, keep tomatoes consistently watered, especially as they begin to fruit. Moisture will prevent fruits from cracking and encourage deep rooting. If it rains less than one inch in a week, be sure to water them well. They will need one to two inches of water weekly. Never let the foliage begin to wilt.
Fertilizer
Before planting, work in compost or other organic amendments. Fertilize plants every three weeks with 1 pound per 100 square feet. Ideal NPK ratios are 8-32-16 or 6-24-24. For smaller gardens, use about one to two level tablespoons of fertilizer per plant every three weeks.
Temperature and Humidity
Plant tomatoes when temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit or ideally above 60 degrees. Since they are warm-weather crops, even a light frost can damage plants. In the event of a potential frost or temperature dip, cover the plants with a frost blanket.
Growing from Seed
Many beefsteak tomato varieties take at least 85 days to harvest. Since this is not possible in much of the United States, it's best to start your own seedlings. Start seedlings indoors six to eight weeks before the first frost of spring when they will be ready to transplant. To extend the fruit-producting season, especially in the southern states, start a second planting of seeds about two or three weeks later. Sow seeds in flats and care for them until they are at least 8 inches tall. Then harden off the seedlings and transplant them after the last spring frost. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can advise you on planting times in your growing zone.
Varieties of Beefsteak Tomato
Beefsteak varieties produce fruits in many colors, including red/burgundy, gold/yellow, green, orange, pink, purple/lavender, and variegated. 'Beefmaster,' 'Big Beef,' and 'Big Boy' are among the most popular and easy to find varieties that have adapted to southern heat. 'Mortgage Lifter' and 'Grosse Lisse' are good choices for very humid areas. if you enjoy heirloom varieties, try 'Red Brandywine', 'Pruden's Purple Tomato', also known as 'Prudence', or 'Chocolate Stripes'.
Common Pests and Diseases
All beefsteak tomato varieties are prone to various diseases and pests. Watch closely for any issues and take care of them as soon as possible. Some common pests are tomato hornworms, aphids, rodents such as squirrels, and flea beetles. Humid weather may cause fungal diseases like early blight and late blight.
To remove any aphids, apply a warm stream of water. You can also handpick and destroy beetles, eggs, and larvae. To protect plants from early flea beetle damage, use row covers. To prevent fungal diseases and blossom end rot, water early in the day at the base of the plant, not overhead, and maintain consistent moisture while avoiding waterlogging the soil. Weeding around beefsteak will also encourage good air circulation. Moving forward, the best way to prevent many of these issues is to practice proper crop rotation.
Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum "Beefsteak"
Common Name Beefsteak Tomatoes
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Mature Size 6 feet tall or more
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Bloom Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 2-11, USDA
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Foliage (not fruit) is toxic to humans and some pets
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Beefsteak Tomato Care and Trellising
Space tomato plants at least 18 to 36 inches apart. Beefsteak varieties are especially tall and require lots of space and training. For optimal growth and air circulation, space 5 feet or more apart. Tie the plant to a trellis, stake, or cage. They usually grow too tall for a typical tomato cage, so they will need extra support as their baseball-sized fruit can be quite heavy.
Dig a 10- to 12-inch deep hole for each plant and consider using a post-hole digger. Establish a post or stake down the center of the row between the two end posts at each end of the row if end posts are more than 20 feet apart. Posts that are 3 inches in diameter and 6 feet tall are ideal. Replace the dirt and pack it in firmly so that the posts do not fall over.
Wrap a 12-gauge wire around the top of one end post about 6 feet above the soil surface. Nail or staple the end of the wire to the post. Stretch the wire to make it taut, extend it to the next post, and keep the post anchored in place. Tie a second wire between the posts about 12 inches above the ground.
Tie twine to the bottom wire and stretch it to the top wire. Tie the other end to the top. Attach any additional lengths of twine for each plant and space the twine 36 inches apart on the length of the trellis.
Once the trellis system is ready, plant a seedling at the base of each length of twine. Plant each seedling deeper than it was growing in its starter pot. Establish deep enough so that the bottom leaf is just above the soil surface. Do this by planting it straight into the soil or sideways to encourage healthy rooting. Beefsteaks thrive most if planted deeper in the ground rather than being planted in containers.
As the plant grows, you should prune it regularly. As side branches form on the main stem, pinch out "suckers" or new growth when they are young and only 1/2 inch long that form in the crotch of the stronger branches. Do this weekly throughout the growing season to ensure that the plant develops no more than one or two main stems. This will make it easier for the plant to grow on the trellis, and it will slow upward growth and promote better branching. As the stem grows, wrap it around the twine in the same direction each time. Handle the stem carefully so that it doesn't break.
Light
Give beefsteak tomatoes full, direct sunlight 8 hours or more per day. Make sure no shadows are cast by nearby buildings or trees. For best results, grow them on a slight slope with southern or southeastern exposure. A well-drained raised garden bed is especially good in cooler climates because it will warm early in the season.
Soil
As for all tomato plants, provide beefsteaks with well-drained fertile soil that is high in organic matter. Fertile clay and loam produce high yields, while lighter soils drain and warm quickly and will produce earlier harvests. Maintain a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Keep the bed weeded, and mulch between rows of tomatoes to prevent weed overgrowth and to conserve moisture. Black plastic mulch will warm the soil and radiate heat.
Water
After planting, water immediately to moisten and settle the soil. Throughout the growing season, keep tomatoes consistently watered, especially as they begin to fruit. Moisture will prevent fruits from cracking and encourage deep rooting. If it rains less than one inch in a week, be sure to water them well. They will need one to two inches of water weekly. Never let the foliage begin to wilt.
Fertilizer
Before planting, work in compost or other organic amendments. Fertilize plants every three weeks with 1 pound per 100 square feet. Ideal NPK ratios are 8-32-16 or 6-24-24. For smaller gardens, use about one to two level tablespoons of fertilizer per plant every three weeks.
Temperature and Humidity
Plant tomatoes when temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit or ideally above 60 degrees. Since they are warm-weather crops, even a light frost can damage plants. In the event of a potential frost or temperature dip, cover the plants with a frost blanket.
Growing from Seed
Many beefsteak tomato varieties take at least 85 days to harvest. Since this is not possible in much of the United States, it's best to start your own seedlings. Start seedlings indoors six to eight weeks before the first frost of spring when they will be ready to transplant. To extend the fruit-producting season, especially in the southern states, start a second planting of seeds about two or three weeks later. Sow seeds in flats and care for them until they are at least 8 inches tall. Then harden off the seedlings and transplant them after the last spring frost. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can advise you on planting times in your growing zone.
Varieties of Beefsteak Tomato
Beefsteak varieties produce fruits in many colors, including red/burgundy, gold/yellow, green, orange, pink, purple/lavender, and variegated. 'Beefmaster,' 'Big Beef,' and 'Big Boy' are among the most popular and easy to find varieties that have adapted to southern heat. 'Mortgage Lifter' and 'Grosse Lisse' are good choices for very humid areas. if you enjoy heirloom varieties, try 'Red Brandywine', 'Pruden's Purple Tomato', also known as 'Prudence', or 'Chocolate Stripes'.
Common Pests and Diseases
All beefsteak tomato varieties are prone to various diseases and pests. Watch closely for any issues and take care of them as soon as possible. Some common pests are tomato hornworms, aphids, rodents such as squirrels, and flea beetles. Humid weather may cause fungal diseases like early blight and late blight.
To remove any aphids, apply a warm stream of water. You can also handpick and destroy beetles, eggs, and larvae. To protect plants from early flea beetle damage, use row covers. To prevent fungal diseases and blossom end rot, water early in the day at the base of the plant, not overhead, and maintain consistent moisture while avoiding waterlogging the soil. Weeding around beefsteak will also encourage good air circulation. Moving forward, the best way to prevent many of these issues is to practice proper crop rotation.
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文章
莹723
2021年02月21日
Whether you're growing fruits and veggies or herbs and flowers, edging is the finishing touch for any type of garden. By placing edging around garden beds full of annual flowers and perennials, they'll look more polished and your mulch will stay in place. Plus, it will add character and charm to your home's curb appeal.
Installing garden edging also takes some effort! Get your tools together first, including gardening gloves, an edging shovel, garden spade, rake and kneeler pad.
Here are some of the best materials for edging your garden beds.
1.Paver Stones
Pavers made from concrete are nearly indestructible. But they're heavy to handle and time-consuming to install, so plan on a few days of heavy carrying and digging. You can make paths with pavers, or just use them for edging beds.
Pros: Lasts forever and very attractive
Cons: Time-consuming to install
2.Woven Willow
Also called "wattle," this natural edge is perfect for English or country gardens. It's used extensively in Europe.
Pros: Beautiful in the right setting
Cons: Easily damaged and pricey for large areas
3.Natural Rock
Rocks are available in an array of sizes, colors, and shapes, and creeping flowers look amazing tumbling over them! Simply line the edges of each bed, but opt for rocks that are the size of a soft ball or larger for the most visual impact. Visit a nursery or garden center for options.
Pros: Lasts forever
Cons: Takes time to fit them together in a pleasing way
4.Brick
Lay bricks in a shallow trench on their side with the wide side down, or stand them upright. The hardest part is getting everything level. Hint: Use a rubber mallet and line level on a string.
Pros: Lasts forever, relatively inexpensive
Cons: Labor-intensive to install
5.Poured Concrete
This is typically not a DIY job for newbies, as you must build a form, then mix and pour concrete into the mold. Consider hiring an expert, because mistakes are not easily fixed.
Pros: Lasts a long time
Cons: Can’t easily adjust the layout of the planting bed in future years
6.Recycled Rubber Edging
A few companies now make rubber edging that’s pounded into place. It’s nearly indestructible, as it’s usually made from recycled tires.
Pros: Lasts a lifetime
Cons: Doesn’t look great in formal or cottage gardens
7.Landscape Timber
If you’re handy with a saw, landscape timbers are a cost-effective method of edging. They're often pressure-treated to prevent rotting. You’ll need to level the ground and cut sections as needed.
Pros: Inexpensive and long-lasting
Cons: Cannot be used to create curved borders
8.Decorative Fence
Small sections of fence are super-easy for lining a garden perimeter. Many different types and sizes exist including metal, wood, and plastic, so you’ll find the one that suits your garden’s style.
Pros: Easy to place
Cons: Easily damaged, doesn't hold mulch in place
Installing garden edging also takes some effort! Get your tools together first, including gardening gloves, an edging shovel, garden spade, rake and kneeler pad.
Here are some of the best materials for edging your garden beds.
1.Paver Stones
Pavers made from concrete are nearly indestructible. But they're heavy to handle and time-consuming to install, so plan on a few days of heavy carrying and digging. You can make paths with pavers, or just use them for edging beds.
Pros: Lasts forever and very attractive
Cons: Time-consuming to install
2.Woven Willow
Also called "wattle," this natural edge is perfect for English or country gardens. It's used extensively in Europe.
Pros: Beautiful in the right setting
Cons: Easily damaged and pricey for large areas
3.Natural Rock
Rocks are available in an array of sizes, colors, and shapes, and creeping flowers look amazing tumbling over them! Simply line the edges of each bed, but opt for rocks that are the size of a soft ball or larger for the most visual impact. Visit a nursery or garden center for options.
Pros: Lasts forever
Cons: Takes time to fit them together in a pleasing way
4.Brick
Lay bricks in a shallow trench on their side with the wide side down, or stand them upright. The hardest part is getting everything level. Hint: Use a rubber mallet and line level on a string.
Pros: Lasts forever, relatively inexpensive
Cons: Labor-intensive to install
5.Poured Concrete
This is typically not a DIY job for newbies, as you must build a form, then mix and pour concrete into the mold. Consider hiring an expert, because mistakes are not easily fixed.
Pros: Lasts a long time
Cons: Can’t easily adjust the layout of the planting bed in future years
6.Recycled Rubber Edging
A few companies now make rubber edging that’s pounded into place. It’s nearly indestructible, as it’s usually made from recycled tires.
Pros: Lasts a lifetime
Cons: Doesn’t look great in formal or cottage gardens
7.Landscape Timber
If you’re handy with a saw, landscape timbers are a cost-effective method of edging. They're often pressure-treated to prevent rotting. You’ll need to level the ground and cut sections as needed.
Pros: Inexpensive and long-lasting
Cons: Cannot be used to create curved borders
8.Decorative Fence
Small sections of fence are super-easy for lining a garden perimeter. Many different types and sizes exist including metal, wood, and plastic, so you’ll find the one that suits your garden’s style.
Pros: Easy to place
Cons: Easily damaged, doesn't hold mulch in place
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0
文章
ritau
2020年04月23日
Hi, everybody, today let's learn something about how to grow onions!
1. Choose a type of onion to grow.
As with most fruits and vegetables, there are many variations of the onion that are appealing for different reasons. Onions come in three general colors - white, yellow, and red/purple - each with their own distinct taste. Additionally, onions are categorized into two growing types: long-day and short-day. Long-day onions are named such because they begin sprouting when the days between 14 to 16 hours in length (late spring/summer), while short-day onions begin sprouting when days are between 10 to 12 hours in length (winter/early spring).
2. Decide how you will plant the onions.
In general, there are two popular ways of growing onions: using either onion sets (bulbs) or using onion seeds. Gardeners tend to prefer planting onion sets, as they are a bit hardier and stand up to poor weather better than onion seeds. However, if you're able and willing to grow your onions from seeds indoors and transplant them outdoors, you can certainly raise them all on your own from seeds. You can also plant your onions in the ground in warm weather.
3. Know when to grow.
Onions can be tricky to grow if they're not planted at the right time. If planted in cold weather, they can die off or waste energy in blossoms rather than bulbs in the spring. If you're planting seeds, start them indoors at least 6 weeks prior to planting outdoors. Make sure that you sow the onions 6 weeks before your average last frost date, and set them out after that date.
4. Select the ideal location.
Onions aren't too terribly picky when it comes to growing conditions, but they do have some preferences. Select a place with plenty of room and full sunlight. Onions will grow quite large if they're given enough space, so keep in mind that the more area you give them to grow, the larger they will get. Avoid planting them in a location that is shaded by larger plants or trees.
5. Prepare the soil.
Although it takes some forethought, if you are able to prepare the soil of your plot for planting several months in advance, you'll receive a better onion crop down the line. If you're able, begin tilling the soil and adding in manure in the fall. If your soil is very rocky, sandy, or has lots of clay, mix in some potting soil to help even things out. Additionally, test the pH level of your soil and add in any necessary compounds in order to create a pH that falls between 6 to 7.5.
6. Get the soil ready.
When you're ready to plant, till the soil about 6 inches (15.2 cm) deep and add a layer (1 cup per 20 feet) of phosphorous fertilizer. However, only do this if your soil is low on phosphorus. Be sure to test your soil first to find out. Using a mixture such as 10-20-10 or 0-20-0 will provide an extra boost for your developing onions. At this point, be sure to remove any weeds that may be present in the garden plot you're planting in.
7. Dig the holes.
Plant onions so that no more than one inch of soil is placed above the sets or seedlings; if too much of the bulb is buried, the growth of the onion will be reduced and constricted. Space onion sets 4–6 inches (10.2–15.2 cm) apart, and onion seeds 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) apart. As your onions begin to grow, you can transplant them and space them further apart in order to increase their growing size.
8. Plant the onions.
Place your seeds in the holes you've dug, covering them with ¼ to ½ inch of soil. The sets should be no more than two inches deep. Use your hands or shoes to firmly tamp the soil over the top of the onions; they grow better in firm, rather than loose, soil. Finish up planting by adding a bit of water, and you're set to watch them grow! via.wikihow
1. Choose a type of onion to grow.
As with most fruits and vegetables, there are many variations of the onion that are appealing for different reasons. Onions come in three general colors - white, yellow, and red/purple - each with their own distinct taste. Additionally, onions are categorized into two growing types: long-day and short-day. Long-day onions are named such because they begin sprouting when the days between 14 to 16 hours in length (late spring/summer), while short-day onions begin sprouting when days are between 10 to 12 hours in length (winter/early spring).
2. Decide how you will plant the onions.
In general, there are two popular ways of growing onions: using either onion sets (bulbs) or using onion seeds. Gardeners tend to prefer planting onion sets, as they are a bit hardier and stand up to poor weather better than onion seeds. However, if you're able and willing to grow your onions from seeds indoors and transplant them outdoors, you can certainly raise them all on your own from seeds. You can also plant your onions in the ground in warm weather.
3. Know when to grow.
Onions can be tricky to grow if they're not planted at the right time. If planted in cold weather, they can die off or waste energy in blossoms rather than bulbs in the spring. If you're planting seeds, start them indoors at least 6 weeks prior to planting outdoors. Make sure that you sow the onions 6 weeks before your average last frost date, and set them out after that date.
4. Select the ideal location.
Onions aren't too terribly picky when it comes to growing conditions, but they do have some preferences. Select a place with plenty of room and full sunlight. Onions will grow quite large if they're given enough space, so keep in mind that the more area you give them to grow, the larger they will get. Avoid planting them in a location that is shaded by larger plants or trees.
5. Prepare the soil.
Although it takes some forethought, if you are able to prepare the soil of your plot for planting several months in advance, you'll receive a better onion crop down the line. If you're able, begin tilling the soil and adding in manure in the fall. If your soil is very rocky, sandy, or has lots of clay, mix in some potting soil to help even things out. Additionally, test the pH level of your soil and add in any necessary compounds in order to create a pH that falls between 6 to 7.5.
6. Get the soil ready.
When you're ready to plant, till the soil about 6 inches (15.2 cm) deep and add a layer (1 cup per 20 feet) of phosphorous fertilizer. However, only do this if your soil is low on phosphorus. Be sure to test your soil first to find out. Using a mixture such as 10-20-10 or 0-20-0 will provide an extra boost for your developing onions. At this point, be sure to remove any weeds that may be present in the garden plot you're planting in.
7. Dig the holes.
Plant onions so that no more than one inch of soil is placed above the sets or seedlings; if too much of the bulb is buried, the growth of the onion will be reduced and constricted. Space onion sets 4–6 inches (10.2–15.2 cm) apart, and onion seeds 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) apart. As your onions begin to grow, you can transplant them and space them further apart in order to increase their growing size.
8. Plant the onions.
Place your seeds in the holes you've dug, covering them with ¼ to ½ inch of soil. The sets should be no more than two inches deep. Use your hands or shoes to firmly tamp the soil over the top of the onions; they grow better in firm, rather than loose, soil. Finish up planting by adding a bit of water, and you're set to watch them grow! via.wikihow
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文章
Maisel
2019年01月21日
Durian is known as the king of fruits in some countries, and even today, the enthusiasm for the fruit is increasing. Malaysia have experienced a boom in recent years since high demand for their crops from Chinese.
Some vendors wear heavy work gloves,when cutting durian. Because the spiky husk is as sharp as it looks. On the coutrary,the interior, features pockets of soft, yellow fruit. Durian ranges from an avocado-like to a custard-like consistency. Each section has at least one pit in the middle.
The average durian weighs 3.3 pounds .Farmers place nets under the trees to catch each fruit and protect it from damage in Southeast Asia.Durian falls to nets when it reaches maturity. Not everyone is a fan.The spiky, alien-looking durian is famous for its smell. The scent of this fruit, which can be larger than a football when mature, has earned comparisons to over-ripe onions, potent cheese and gym socks. In Singapore, a country where it is widely available, the durian's smell is strong enough to get it banned from some businesses, commercial buildings and public transport. For some, however, durians are the ideal food.
Some vendors wear heavy work gloves,when cutting durian. Because the spiky husk is as sharp as it looks. On the coutrary,the interior, features pockets of soft, yellow fruit. Durian ranges from an avocado-like to a custard-like consistency. Each section has at least one pit in the middle.
The average durian weighs 3.3 pounds .Farmers place nets under the trees to catch each fruit and protect it from damage in Southeast Asia.Durian falls to nets when it reaches maturity. Not everyone is a fan.The spiky, alien-looking durian is famous for its smell. The scent of this fruit, which can be larger than a football when mature, has earned comparisons to over-ripe onions, potent cheese and gym socks. In Singapore, a country where it is widely available, the durian's smell is strong enough to get it banned from some businesses, commercial buildings and public transport. For some, however, durians are the ideal food.
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文章
Andy
2018年12月26日
Facebook Pinterest Twitter Google+ LinkedIn StumbleUponLearn how to grow pomegranate tree. Growing Pomegranates in Containers is not difficult, and it is more cold hardy and easy to grow than other tropical fruits.
Pomegranate is one of the nicest fruit trees and perhaps the easiest to grow in pots because it has a shallow root system when compared to other fruit trees.
Pomegranate tree if grown under optimal conditions, live up to 200 years. It is native to the Middle East (Iran) and South Asia, Himalayan Northern India. It is a shrub or small tree that might grow up to 6 m (20 ft) but usually reduced to 2 m.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11, *can be grown below zone 9 in containers
Difficulty: Easy
Soil pH: Neutral
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Other Names: Punic apple, Granatapfel, Granada, Grenade, Melograno, Melagrana, Anardana, Anar, Dadima, Fruit du, Pomme Grenade, Punica granatum, Roma, Shi Liu Gen Pi, and Shi Liu Pi
Appearance
The exotic container plant is adorned with five to eight centimeters long lance-shaped leaves that are shiny and bronze in color from the bud, which later turn green.
Pomegranate flowers are delicate, bell-shaped and show up in the wild bright red. Its flowers are up to 3 centimeters wide. Ornamental varieties can have flowers in pink, cream, and even white.
In addition to the decorative foliage and flowers, it is mainly the fruits that make the pomegranate tree so desirable. They are of the size of apples with a yellow-brown to a reddish-brown or pink or rich red hard shell. Inside, the fruit consists of countless tiny sacs that are transparent in color. They are juicy and have beautiful pink or red pulp and one hard seed in each, which is completely edible. Overall, the taste of pomegranate fruit is a sweet and juicy, and crunchy and little tart. Without a doubt, this is the best tasting fruit full of nutrients.
Also Read: How to Grow Indian Gooseberry ‘Amla Tree’
Dwarf Pomegranate VarietiesFruiting Varieties‘Nana’ – The most interesting variety among the pomegranates trees is the dwarf variety ‘Nana.’ It grows compact, floriferous and is considered robust and cold hardy. It grows in USDA Zones 7 to 11. As a container plant, it grows up to only about 1 m tall, forms orange to garnet red flowers that produce small fruits with viable seeds.‘Provence’ – When most of the pomegranate varieties are not much cold hardy, Provence is one you can look at. It can tolerate temperature down to 5 F (-15 C) and can be grown in cold climate.‘State fair’ – State fair is manageable variety for containers. It can get up to 1.5 m tall and grown in USDA Zones 7 to 11.Ornamental Varieties‘Flore Pleno’ – It’s a fruitless variety of pomegranate, the name translates as “double flower.” In summer, it produces countless beautiful orange-red flowers.Punica granatum ‘Madame Legrelle’ – A well-known ornamental variety. The special thing about this variety of pomegranate is its extraordinary, dense double flowers that come in shiny orange to salmon colors with a white border.
Note: Pomegranate is a manageable plant. You can also try large varieties.
Propagation and Growing Pomegranates in Containers
Pomegranate plants can be propagated by cuttings or by seeds in spring to summer when the temperature remains in the range of 68 F (20 C), but it is better to buy a 2-3 years old plant from nursery or online. This way you don’t have to wait long for fruits.
Propagation by Seeds
Buy as ripe pomegranate as possible. Separate and clean seeds from the pulp by rubbing them from paper towel, let them dry up for a few days before sowing.
Plant the seeds no more than ¼ inches deep in light seed-starting mix. Place the pots in a bright location, optionally inside a plastic bag or greenhouse that maintains a temperature around 68 F (20 C). Always keep the soil moist. Seeds will germinate within 1 – 6 weeks depending more on the variety and climate.
Propagation by Cuttings
Take several 8 to 10 inch-long cuttings. Plant the cutting in a well-drained potting mix. It roots easily and quickly at the ambient temperature of 20 degrees Celsius and high humidity.
*If you’re living in tropics, growing pomegranates is extremely easy for you. You can grow pomegranate in any season except peak summer. All other growing requirements given below are similar.
Choosing a pot
Pot should be appropriate to the size of the plant, increase the pot size by repotting as your plant grow. Also, care about to have sufficient holes in the base of pot you’re using for proper drainage.
Requirements for Growing Pomegranates in Pots
If you’ve grown citrus in a pot, growing pomegranates in a pot cannot be difficult for you. Moreover, pomegranate is more cold hardy and easy to grow. It requires a lot of water and fertilizer. It is also frost sensitive, but after all of this care, it rewards you with iron-rich, fresh juicy fruits.
Location
Choose the sunniest location to keep your pomegranate plant happy and healthy. The more sun it will receive, the more it will fruit. However, it also thrives in partial shade, but it makes the plant to bloom and fruit lesser. It is also possible to cultivate pomegranate tree near a windowsill if it receives full sun.
Soil
Soil should be loamy, rich in organic content, loose and permeable.
Watering
In the growing period, its water requirement is medium to high. Therefore, it should be watered regularly and deeply. Soil must be kept moist but not wet or waterlogged.
In the winter watering should be reduced.Pomegranate Tree CareFertilizer
During the growing season, the pomegranate tree is fertilized regularly. Fertilize after every two-three weeks using liquid 8-8-8 fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Pomegranate tree in pot often becomes zinc deficient, which is indicated by yellowing leaves. To overcome this, you can spray diluted zinc solution on foliage.
Application of compost or manure is also beneficial. Take care not to overfertilize it with nitrogen-rich fertilizer as it can cause the tree to produce lots of foliage and comparatively fewer flowers.
Overwintering Pomegranate
Overwintering pomegranate is similar to citrus. It is a deciduous tree that worships the sun. Most of its species are sensitive to frost. But for too low temperatures, the plant has developed a protective mechanism.
It sheds its leaves and become dormant below freezing temperature. There are only a few pomegranate tree varieties that survive really freezing temperatures with more than -10 C without damage.
If the pomegranate is cultivated in a pot in a cold climate below USDA Zone 9, it is important to prune it in the fall. The best place to keep pomegranate plant in winter is the garage or basement that remains warm. Temperature while keeping it indoors should not fall below 37 F (3 C). However, the optimum low temperature for most of the pomegranate varieties is 7 C (45 F).
If you’re able to keep your pomegranate tree in temperature around 55 F (15 C) indoors and allow it to take at least 4 hours of sunlight, it will not shed its leaves and go dormant. During the period of dormancy, the pomegranate hardly needs fertilizer or water. However, the plant in winter should not dry out completely.
In spring, bring back the plant to a warm and bright place so that it’ll gradually acclimate the climate. A window that is oriented to South is good. Just when the plant shows the first sign of growth and forms a few fully developed leaves, you can again start to fertilize it and give more water. Once the temperature comes in a range of 7 C (45 F) place it outside.
Pruning
Pruning is necessary to give and maintain the desired shape of your pomegranate tree and encourage flowering and fruiting. It is best done after all danger of frost has passed when the tree is about to start growing. Between early to mid spring.
Prune off weak, dead and undesirable branches to direct shrub’s energy to right parts and shorten long branches to encourage flowering.
Caveat: Some of the varieties have thorns, wear gloves before pruning for your safety.
Repotting
Repot your pomegranate tree when it becomes slightly root bound. The right time to repot is when there are no flowers or fruits on the plant, especially when it starts its growth at the beginning of growing season.
Diseases, Pests, and other Problems
The pomegranate tree is not very vulnerable when it comes to pests and diseases. It is mostly attacked by fruit flies, whiteflies and pomegranate butterflies.
Fruit crack is one problem that is common in all pomegranate varieties. It occurs due to fluctuation or lack of moisture in a substrate at the time of fruiting.
Harvesting
If pomegranate is grown from seeds fruits will begin to form in the third year.
Generally, the fruit will ripen in three to six months after the appearance of flowers.
Harvest pomegranate when the crust of the fruit is intense red. Simply cut the fruit’s stem using sharp pruning shear or knife.
Pomegranate is one of the nicest fruit trees and perhaps the easiest to grow in pots because it has a shallow root system when compared to other fruit trees.
Pomegranate tree if grown under optimal conditions, live up to 200 years. It is native to the Middle East (Iran) and South Asia, Himalayan Northern India. It is a shrub or small tree that might grow up to 6 m (20 ft) but usually reduced to 2 m.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11, *can be grown below zone 9 in containers
Difficulty: Easy
Soil pH: Neutral
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Other Names: Punic apple, Granatapfel, Granada, Grenade, Melograno, Melagrana, Anardana, Anar, Dadima, Fruit du, Pomme Grenade, Punica granatum, Roma, Shi Liu Gen Pi, and Shi Liu Pi
Appearance
The exotic container plant is adorned with five to eight centimeters long lance-shaped leaves that are shiny and bronze in color from the bud, which later turn green.
Pomegranate flowers are delicate, bell-shaped and show up in the wild bright red. Its flowers are up to 3 centimeters wide. Ornamental varieties can have flowers in pink, cream, and even white.
In addition to the decorative foliage and flowers, it is mainly the fruits that make the pomegranate tree so desirable. They are of the size of apples with a yellow-brown to a reddish-brown or pink or rich red hard shell. Inside, the fruit consists of countless tiny sacs that are transparent in color. They are juicy and have beautiful pink or red pulp and one hard seed in each, which is completely edible. Overall, the taste of pomegranate fruit is a sweet and juicy, and crunchy and little tart. Without a doubt, this is the best tasting fruit full of nutrients.
Also Read: How to Grow Indian Gooseberry ‘Amla Tree’
Dwarf Pomegranate VarietiesFruiting Varieties‘Nana’ – The most interesting variety among the pomegranates trees is the dwarf variety ‘Nana.’ It grows compact, floriferous and is considered robust and cold hardy. It grows in USDA Zones 7 to 11. As a container plant, it grows up to only about 1 m tall, forms orange to garnet red flowers that produce small fruits with viable seeds.‘Provence’ – When most of the pomegranate varieties are not much cold hardy, Provence is one you can look at. It can tolerate temperature down to 5 F (-15 C) and can be grown in cold climate.‘State fair’ – State fair is manageable variety for containers. It can get up to 1.5 m tall and grown in USDA Zones 7 to 11.Ornamental Varieties‘Flore Pleno’ – It’s a fruitless variety of pomegranate, the name translates as “double flower.” In summer, it produces countless beautiful orange-red flowers.Punica granatum ‘Madame Legrelle’ – A well-known ornamental variety. The special thing about this variety of pomegranate is its extraordinary, dense double flowers that come in shiny orange to salmon colors with a white border.
Note: Pomegranate is a manageable plant. You can also try large varieties.
Propagation and Growing Pomegranates in Containers
Pomegranate plants can be propagated by cuttings or by seeds in spring to summer when the temperature remains in the range of 68 F (20 C), but it is better to buy a 2-3 years old plant from nursery or online. This way you don’t have to wait long for fruits.
Propagation by Seeds
Buy as ripe pomegranate as possible. Separate and clean seeds from the pulp by rubbing them from paper towel, let them dry up for a few days before sowing.
Plant the seeds no more than ¼ inches deep in light seed-starting mix. Place the pots in a bright location, optionally inside a plastic bag or greenhouse that maintains a temperature around 68 F (20 C). Always keep the soil moist. Seeds will germinate within 1 – 6 weeks depending more on the variety and climate.
Propagation by Cuttings
Take several 8 to 10 inch-long cuttings. Plant the cutting in a well-drained potting mix. It roots easily and quickly at the ambient temperature of 20 degrees Celsius and high humidity.
*If you’re living in tropics, growing pomegranates is extremely easy for you. You can grow pomegranate in any season except peak summer. All other growing requirements given below are similar.
Choosing a pot
Pot should be appropriate to the size of the plant, increase the pot size by repotting as your plant grow. Also, care about to have sufficient holes in the base of pot you’re using for proper drainage.
Requirements for Growing Pomegranates in Pots
If you’ve grown citrus in a pot, growing pomegranates in a pot cannot be difficult for you. Moreover, pomegranate is more cold hardy and easy to grow. It requires a lot of water and fertilizer. It is also frost sensitive, but after all of this care, it rewards you with iron-rich, fresh juicy fruits.
Location
Choose the sunniest location to keep your pomegranate plant happy and healthy. The more sun it will receive, the more it will fruit. However, it also thrives in partial shade, but it makes the plant to bloom and fruit lesser. It is also possible to cultivate pomegranate tree near a windowsill if it receives full sun.
Soil
Soil should be loamy, rich in organic content, loose and permeable.
Watering
In the growing period, its water requirement is medium to high. Therefore, it should be watered regularly and deeply. Soil must be kept moist but not wet or waterlogged.
In the winter watering should be reduced.Pomegranate Tree CareFertilizer
During the growing season, the pomegranate tree is fertilized regularly. Fertilize after every two-three weeks using liquid 8-8-8 fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Pomegranate tree in pot often becomes zinc deficient, which is indicated by yellowing leaves. To overcome this, you can spray diluted zinc solution on foliage.
Application of compost or manure is also beneficial. Take care not to overfertilize it with nitrogen-rich fertilizer as it can cause the tree to produce lots of foliage and comparatively fewer flowers.
Overwintering Pomegranate
Overwintering pomegranate is similar to citrus. It is a deciduous tree that worships the sun. Most of its species are sensitive to frost. But for too low temperatures, the plant has developed a protective mechanism.
It sheds its leaves and become dormant below freezing temperature. There are only a few pomegranate tree varieties that survive really freezing temperatures with more than -10 C without damage.
If the pomegranate is cultivated in a pot in a cold climate below USDA Zone 9, it is important to prune it in the fall. The best place to keep pomegranate plant in winter is the garage or basement that remains warm. Temperature while keeping it indoors should not fall below 37 F (3 C). However, the optimum low temperature for most of the pomegranate varieties is 7 C (45 F).
If you’re able to keep your pomegranate tree in temperature around 55 F (15 C) indoors and allow it to take at least 4 hours of sunlight, it will not shed its leaves and go dormant. During the period of dormancy, the pomegranate hardly needs fertilizer or water. However, the plant in winter should not dry out completely.
In spring, bring back the plant to a warm and bright place so that it’ll gradually acclimate the climate. A window that is oriented to South is good. Just when the plant shows the first sign of growth and forms a few fully developed leaves, you can again start to fertilize it and give more water. Once the temperature comes in a range of 7 C (45 F) place it outside.
Pruning
Pruning is necessary to give and maintain the desired shape of your pomegranate tree and encourage flowering and fruiting. It is best done after all danger of frost has passed when the tree is about to start growing. Between early to mid spring.
Prune off weak, dead and undesirable branches to direct shrub’s energy to right parts and shorten long branches to encourage flowering.
Caveat: Some of the varieties have thorns, wear gloves before pruning for your safety.
Repotting
Repot your pomegranate tree when it becomes slightly root bound. The right time to repot is when there are no flowers or fruits on the plant, especially when it starts its growth at the beginning of growing season.
Diseases, Pests, and other Problems
The pomegranate tree is not very vulnerable when it comes to pests and diseases. It is mostly attacked by fruit flies, whiteflies and pomegranate butterflies.
Fruit crack is one problem that is common in all pomegranate varieties. It occurs due to fluctuation or lack of moisture in a substrate at the time of fruiting.
Harvesting
If pomegranate is grown from seeds fruits will begin to form in the third year.
Generally, the fruit will ripen in three to six months after the appearance of flowers.
Harvest pomegranate when the crust of the fruit is intense red. Simply cut the fruit’s stem using sharp pruning shear or knife.
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求助
Michub63
2018年08月09日
What ID for that tree,growing in Thailand and gives small red rose and sweet sour fruits
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成长记
Michub63
2018年08月07日
I now added "Aubergine thaïe 1ers fruits" in my "garden"
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Michub63：il semblerait qu'une macération d'ail frai / eau soit efficace contre les prédateurs en tout genre chats, insectes, chenilles, pucerons etc...!
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Broccoli, a biennial member of the cruciferous family of vegetables, along with cabbage and Brussels sprouts, relies on sexual reproduction just like other fruits and vegetables do.
Introduction
Broccoli in bloom
Parts of a broccoli flower
There are thousands of tiny flowers in a head of broccoli
If you look closely at broccoli that's ready to harvest, you will see a tightly packed head with a rough, lumpy surface and thick compact stems--the familiar look of broccoli that is harvested and sold in stores. The lumpy surface contains thousand of immature flower buds. When the broccoli flowers open, they have petals, stamen, stigma, pistle, ovule and pollen.
Pollination
Broccoli seeds look like mustard seed when harvested
Pollen contains male gametes (sperm), and the ovule contains female gametes (eggs). The two have to be brought together for pollination to take place. Broccoli relies on pollination to reproduce just like other fruits and vegetables do. Pollination takes place when insects or birds attracted by the scent and color of the flowers feed off nectar on the stigma or around the base of the ovule. The insects transfer pollen from the stamens to the stigma, where it fertilizes the female gametes in the ovule.
Gestation to harvest
Parts of a flower--broccoli blossoms have them, too
As the newly fertilized seeds inside the ovule grow, the ovule lengthens into a pod where the seeds will mature after several weeks. Broccoli plants produce dozens of pods, each with eight to 10 small, hard, dark brown seeds inside. The seeds are about the size and shape of brown mustard seeds and have a pleasant peppery taste.
Introduction
Broccoli in bloom
Parts of a broccoli flower
There are thousands of tiny flowers in a head of broccoli
If you look closely at broccoli that's ready to harvest, you will see a tightly packed head with a rough, lumpy surface and thick compact stems--the familiar look of broccoli that is harvested and sold in stores. The lumpy surface contains thousand of immature flower buds. When the broccoli flowers open, they have petals, stamen, stigma, pistle, ovule and pollen.
Pollination
Broccoli seeds look like mustard seed when harvested
Pollen contains male gametes (sperm), and the ovule contains female gametes (eggs). The two have to be brought together for pollination to take place. Broccoli relies on pollination to reproduce just like other fruits and vegetables do. Pollination takes place when insects or birds attracted by the scent and color of the flowers feed off nectar on the stigma or around the base of the ovule. The insects transfer pollen from the stamens to the stigma, where it fertilizes the female gametes in the ovule.
Gestation to harvest
Parts of a flower--broccoli blossoms have them, too
As the newly fertilized seeds inside the ovule grow, the ovule lengthens into a pod where the seeds will mature after several weeks. Broccoli plants produce dozens of pods, each with eight to 10 small, hard, dark brown seeds inside. The seeds are about the size and shape of brown mustard seeds and have a pleasant peppery taste.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月15日
The sour flavor experienced with some foods is due to citric acid. It can be found in many fruits and vegetables, especially citrus fruits such as lemons and oranges.
Definition
Citric acid is an organic, crystalline acid that exists in a variety of fruits and vegetables. It is colorless and is derived by fermentation of carbohydrates.
Vegetables
Citric acid can be found in beans, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes. The acidity in foods can be measured in "pH" levels. The lower the pH level, the more acid is in the food. Tomatoes are high in citric acid and measure between 4.30 and 4.90 in pH level. Broccoli measures between 6.30 and 6.52 in pH level.
Preservatives
Food manufacturers add citric acid to jams, canned fruits and vegetables. Citric acid is also added to soft drinks for the sour taste.
Natural Cleansers
Many environmentally friendly products use citric acid as their cleaning agent. Citric acid can also be used for odor control.
Absorption
A person usually consumes about 500 mg citric acid per day. This is about the same as 2 ounces of orange juice. Citric acid is absorbed through the digestive tract and eliminated by the kidneys.
Definition
Citric acid is an organic, crystalline acid that exists in a variety of fruits and vegetables. It is colorless and is derived by fermentation of carbohydrates.
Vegetables
Citric acid can be found in beans, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes. The acidity in foods can be measured in "pH" levels. The lower the pH level, the more acid is in the food. Tomatoes are high in citric acid and measure between 4.30 and 4.90 in pH level. Broccoli measures between 6.30 and 6.52 in pH level.
Preservatives
Food manufacturers add citric acid to jams, canned fruits and vegetables. Citric acid is also added to soft drinks for the sour taste.
Natural Cleansers
Many environmentally friendly products use citric acid as their cleaning agent. Citric acid can also be used for odor control.
Absorption
A person usually consumes about 500 mg citric acid per day. This is about the same as 2 ounces of orange juice. Citric acid is absorbed through the digestive tract and eliminated by the kidneys.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月14日
Grow fresh vegetables all year in Phoenix. The hot summer sun is a good thing for the right vegetables. Thoughtful garden design protects plants from too much sun. Irrigation and shade are key ingredients to enjoying the fruits and vegetables of your labor through summer's heat.
Irrigation
Irrigating vegetables is a balance of the right amount of water at the right time of day. Thorough watering early in the day provides a reservoir from which plants can draw through the heat of the day. Drip or soaker irrigation is preferred, because water droplets on vegetables or leaves turn into magnifying glasses concentrating sunlight and burning the plant. Overnight watering contributes to molds and soil-transmitted disease. Missing one day's irrigation can kill plants in the summer.
Shade
Peppers, corn, most tomatoes and melons thrive in the heat and sun all day long. Most herbs, basil is an exception, need shade from direct sunlight. Other vegetable plants, such as leeks and eggplant, also need protection from direct afternoon sun. Shade cloths, readily available in the Phoenix area, are easily installed over sensitive plants.
Monsoon
Protect plants from violent summer monsoons and their wind, hail and heavy rain by using poles, stakes or tomato cages to keep plants from breaking during the pummeling. Ensure shade cloth is well anchored and has wind flaps to reduce the chance of it sailing away in the storm.
Dust
Dust on leaves interferes with transpiration. Gently wash dust off leaves with a light spray late in the afternoon or early in the evening. Carefully apply water to leaves and avoid saturating below the soil surface.
Mulch
Mulch benefits the Phoenix vegetable garden by helping retain water and preventing weeds. Chunky mulch, such as a bark, allows airflow at ground level, depressing soil temperature and protecting roots.
Container Gardens
Direct sun turns containers into ovens, baking vegetable roots. Any plant in a container needs to be shaded, beginning at midmorning. Irrigate containers twice a day to maintain a cool soil temperature. Potted soil is less susceptible to disease allowing for the twice-a-day watering.
Irrigation
Irrigating vegetables is a balance of the right amount of water at the right time of day. Thorough watering early in the day provides a reservoir from which plants can draw through the heat of the day. Drip or soaker irrigation is preferred, because water droplets on vegetables or leaves turn into magnifying glasses concentrating sunlight and burning the plant. Overnight watering contributes to molds and soil-transmitted disease. Missing one day's irrigation can kill plants in the summer.
Shade
Peppers, corn, most tomatoes and melons thrive in the heat and sun all day long. Most herbs, basil is an exception, need shade from direct sunlight. Other vegetable plants, such as leeks and eggplant, also need protection from direct afternoon sun. Shade cloths, readily available in the Phoenix area, are easily installed over sensitive plants.
Monsoon
Protect plants from violent summer monsoons and their wind, hail and heavy rain by using poles, stakes or tomato cages to keep plants from breaking during the pummeling. Ensure shade cloth is well anchored and has wind flaps to reduce the chance of it sailing away in the storm.
Dust
Dust on leaves interferes with transpiration. Gently wash dust off leaves with a light spray late in the afternoon or early in the evening. Carefully apply water to leaves and avoid saturating below the soil surface.
Mulch
Mulch benefits the Phoenix vegetable garden by helping retain water and preventing weeds. Chunky mulch, such as a bark, allows airflow at ground level, depressing soil temperature and protecting roots.
Container Gardens
Direct sun turns containers into ovens, baking vegetable roots. Any plant in a container needs to be shaded, beginning at midmorning. Irrigate containers twice a day to maintain a cool soil temperature. Potted soil is less susceptible to disease allowing for the twice-a-day watering.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Pumpkins (Cucurbita spp.) grow when there is no threat of frost for at least 90 days. An annual vine that dies after the pumpkin fruits form and ripen, gardeners in the United States plant seeds in late spring or midsummer for harvest in time for October festivities. Pumpkins need abundant sunlight and warmth to grow, flower and set fruits well. Shady garden locations are poor sites for raising pumpkin plants.
Growing Requirements
Pumpkin patches are always in an open, sunny spot.
Pumpkin vines need lots of space to sprawl their vines across the garden soil. Depending on the variety, 500 to 2,000 square feet is needed for bush-vine pie and jumbo jack o' lantern types, respectively. Plant seeds in a fertile, moist but well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to neutral in pH. Full sun is a must -- at least 8 hours of direct sunrays daily. Insufficient sunlight causes vines to grow long and spindly with few leaves and flowers.
Effects of Shade
Shady growing conditions retard the growth of pumpkins on many levels. The shade delays warming of soil and air, thereby slowing vine growth. Lack of sun prevents leaves from producing enough carbohydrates, leads to delay in flowering and slows the development of pumpkin fruits. Pumpkin vines also do not do well in moist, high humidity conditions. A shady garden slows evaporation of dew and rain droplets and can increase susceptibility for stem, root and fruit rot from fungi and molds.
When to Plant Pumpkins
In the northern United States where the summers aren't too hot and the frost-free growing seasons are shorter, sow pumpkin seeds in mid to late spring after the expected last spring frost date in May. Soil temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit are best. Sow pumpkins the same time as cucumbers, sweet corn, watermelon, cantaloupe and squash. In the extreme southern U.S., sow pumpkins in early summer, anytime from mid June early July, so they grow and ripen just in time for harvest in September and October. Pumpkin vines die too early in summer in the South, which leads to pumpkin rot or deterioration in the warm temperatures if sown in April or May.
Flowering Insight
Ample sunlight encourages production of flowers in pumpkin vines. Blossoms are either male or female in gender, and both must be present for pollination by bees. The flowers open during the day and close at night or when it's not bright enough or rainy. Shady conditions can delay flowers opening and keep temperatures too cool for heavy visitation by bees. Only pollinated, female pumpkin flowers produce pumpkin fruits.
Growing Requirements
Pumpkin patches are always in an open, sunny spot.
Pumpkin vines need lots of space to sprawl their vines across the garden soil. Depending on the variety, 500 to 2,000 square feet is needed for bush-vine pie and jumbo jack o' lantern types, respectively. Plant seeds in a fertile, moist but well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to neutral in pH. Full sun is a must -- at least 8 hours of direct sunrays daily. Insufficient sunlight causes vines to grow long and spindly with few leaves and flowers.
Effects of Shade
Shady growing conditions retard the growth of pumpkins on many levels. The shade delays warming of soil and air, thereby slowing vine growth. Lack of sun prevents leaves from producing enough carbohydrates, leads to delay in flowering and slows the development of pumpkin fruits. Pumpkin vines also do not do well in moist, high humidity conditions. A shady garden slows evaporation of dew and rain droplets and can increase susceptibility for stem, root and fruit rot from fungi and molds.
When to Plant Pumpkins
In the northern United States where the summers aren't too hot and the frost-free growing seasons are shorter, sow pumpkin seeds in mid to late spring after the expected last spring frost date in May. Soil temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit are best. Sow pumpkins the same time as cucumbers, sweet corn, watermelon, cantaloupe and squash. In the extreme southern U.S., sow pumpkins in early summer, anytime from mid June early July, so they grow and ripen just in time for harvest in September and October. Pumpkin vines die too early in summer in the South, which leads to pumpkin rot or deterioration in the warm temperatures if sown in April or May.
Flowering Insight
Ample sunlight encourages production of flowers in pumpkin vines. Blossoms are either male or female in gender, and both must be present for pollination by bees. The flowers open during the day and close at night or when it's not bright enough or rainy. Shady conditions can delay flowers opening and keep temperatures too cool for heavy visitation by bees. Only pollinated, female pumpkin flowers produce pumpkin fruits.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月20日
Acorn squash (Cucurbita pepo) is an annual vining winter squash plant that produces ribbed fruit with green or gold rinds. When harvested ripe, the fruits store for about three months. To determine if an acorn squash is ripe, consider the appearance and texture of its skin, the condition of the vine and the number of days since sowing.
Skin Appearance
An orange patch appears on the area of the acorn squash that rests on the ground when the fruit is ripe, and skin is matte. An immature acorn squash is shiny. As the fruit ripens, it loses its shine and looks dry and dull.
Skin Texture
A ripe acorn squash has a very tough skin. To test whether an acorn squash is ripe, try to pierce the skin with your thumbnail. Your nail won't easily leave a mark on a ripe acorn squash.
Vine Condition
As an acorn squash matures, the vine deteriorates. When an acorn squash plant turns yellow and dies back, the fruit are usually ripe.
Harvest Time
Acorn squash are usually ready to harvest about 80 to 100 days after sowing. The seeds are sown in spring after the final local average frost date, and the fruits mature as fall approaches.
Unripe Fruit
An unripe acorn squash doesn't ripen after harvest. Acorn squash fruit texture and flavor develops as the fruit ripens. Unripe fruit are watery and taste bland, and store badly.
'Jersey Golden Acorn'
'Jersey Golden Acorn' is an acorn squash variety that produces fruit that can be picked unripe without losing flavor. The flesh of this variety is sweet when the fruit is golfball-sized, and the skin is soft. You can eat unripe 'Jersey Golden Acorn' fruit raw or cooked.
Fruit Harvest
Harvest acorn squash by cutting the stem 1 inch from the fruit, and store the fruit in a dry place at 50 degrees Fahrenheit. An acorn squash fruit stores best at 50 to 75 percent humidity.
Skin Appearance
An orange patch appears on the area of the acorn squash that rests on the ground when the fruit is ripe, and skin is matte. An immature acorn squash is shiny. As the fruit ripens, it loses its shine and looks dry and dull.
Skin Texture
A ripe acorn squash has a very tough skin. To test whether an acorn squash is ripe, try to pierce the skin with your thumbnail. Your nail won't easily leave a mark on a ripe acorn squash.
Vine Condition
As an acorn squash matures, the vine deteriorates. When an acorn squash plant turns yellow and dies back, the fruit are usually ripe.
Harvest Time
Acorn squash are usually ready to harvest about 80 to 100 days after sowing. The seeds are sown in spring after the final local average frost date, and the fruits mature as fall approaches.
Unripe Fruit
An unripe acorn squash doesn't ripen after harvest. Acorn squash fruit texture and flavor develops as the fruit ripens. Unripe fruit are watery and taste bland, and store badly.
'Jersey Golden Acorn'
'Jersey Golden Acorn' is an acorn squash variety that produces fruit that can be picked unripe without losing flavor. The flesh of this variety is sweet when the fruit is golfball-sized, and the skin is soft. You can eat unripe 'Jersey Golden Acorn' fruit raw or cooked.
Fruit Harvest
Harvest acorn squash by cutting the stem 1 inch from the fruit, and store the fruit in a dry place at 50 degrees Fahrenheit. An acorn squash fruit stores best at 50 to 75 percent humidity.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月20日
Also called squaghetti, Manchurian squash, vegetable spaghetti and spaghetti gourd, spaghetti squash (Cucurbita pepo) is named for its flesh, which resembles spaghetti when mature fruits are cooked whole. You can tell when your spaghetti squash are ready for harvest by a change in the color and the texture of their skin. Spaghetti squash is an annual plant, and its fruit matures in fall. One spaghetti squash plant produces three to five fruits.
Harvest Time
About 70 to 80 days after you sow spaghetti squash seeds, the fruits are ready for harvest. Mature fruits weigh about 2 pounds, and are about 10 inches long and 5 inches in diameter. If you're unsure whether the squash is ripe, leave it on the plant. Immature spaghetti squash fruits don't last long in storage. But don't leave fruits on spaghetti squash plants if frost is in the forecast. Freezing temperatures damage the fruit.
Fruit Color
As spaghetti squash matures, its skin turns golden yellow. Sugars develop in ripening spaghetti squash flesh, and the skin color also changes. Unripe fruits are light yellow or ivory white, depending on the variety.
Skin Texture
The skin of mature spaghetti squash fruit is tough. As the season progresses, spaghetti squash fruit skin becomes harder and drier. To test whether a fruit is ready for harvest, try to pierce its skin with your thumbnail. Your nail won't leave a dent on a mature fruit.
Harvest Method
When you harvest spaghetti squash, leave a portion of stem attached to help the fruit store well. Prune the stems 1 inch from the fruits. Wipe dirt from the squash with a clean, damp cloth.
Squash Storage
Spaghetti squash stores best in a cool, dry place.
Put the harvested fruits in an area that's 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, for up to two weeks to cure the skins.
Store the fruits at 55 degrees Fahrenheit in a cellar, shed or other dry place.
Check the fruits every one or two weeks for signs of decay, and remove any that deteriorate. You can store spaghetti squash for up to three or four months.
Harvest Time
About 70 to 80 days after you sow spaghetti squash seeds, the fruits are ready for harvest. Mature fruits weigh about 2 pounds, and are about 10 inches long and 5 inches in diameter. If you're unsure whether the squash is ripe, leave it on the plant. Immature spaghetti squash fruits don't last long in storage. But don't leave fruits on spaghetti squash plants if frost is in the forecast. Freezing temperatures damage the fruit.
Fruit Color
As spaghetti squash matures, its skin turns golden yellow. Sugars develop in ripening spaghetti squash flesh, and the skin color also changes. Unripe fruits are light yellow or ivory white, depending on the variety.
Skin Texture
The skin of mature spaghetti squash fruit is tough. As the season progresses, spaghetti squash fruit skin becomes harder and drier. To test whether a fruit is ready for harvest, try to pierce its skin with your thumbnail. Your nail won't leave a dent on a mature fruit.
Harvest Method
When you harvest spaghetti squash, leave a portion of stem attached to help the fruit store well. Prune the stems 1 inch from the fruits. Wipe dirt from the squash with a clean, damp cloth.
Squash Storage
Spaghetti squash stores best in a cool, dry place.
Put the harvested fruits in an area that's 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, for up to two weeks to cure the skins.
Store the fruits at 55 degrees Fahrenheit in a cellar, shed or other dry place.
Check the fruits every one or two weeks for signs of decay, and remove any that deteriorate. You can store spaghetti squash for up to three or four months.
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