文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
The rewards of a freshly picked, juicy blueberry from your backyard are many. Most areas of Oklahoma are very suitable for raising the bushes for this tiny fruit, which is one of the few fruits native to North America. With a bit of preparation and on-going care, raising blueberry bushes is possible, even for new gardeners.
Step 1
Choose the cultivar of blueberry that you'll grow. The Oklahoma State University recommends the northern highbush if you live in the Tulsa area or north. Those in Oklahoma City and south should grow varieties of southern highbush blueberries or the rabbiteye cultivar.
Step 2
Purchase two- to three-year-old bushes from a reputable nursery. It's very difficult to start a blueberry bush from seed.
Step 3
Locate an appropriate spot for planting in your yard with full sun. Soil in the area should have a pH level between 5.0 and 5.2, according to Oklahoma State University. To adjust the pH level, treat the soil with sulfur at least six months before planting.
Step 4
Dig one hole for each blueberry bush, leaving a space of at least 5 feet between each one. The hole should be slightly deeper than the root bulb of the plant.
Step 5
Place the new bushes in the holes and cover with mulch or peat moss.
Step 6
Monitor the soil moisture for the blueberry plants, being sure to give them at least 2 inches of water per week.
Step 7
Prune the plant only after three years have passed. Use hand-held pruning shears to trim the branches closest to the ground.
Step 1
Choose the cultivar of blueberry that you'll grow. The Oklahoma State University recommends the northern highbush if you live in the Tulsa area or north. Those in Oklahoma City and south should grow varieties of southern highbush blueberries or the rabbiteye cultivar.
Step 2
Purchase two- to three-year-old bushes from a reputable nursery. It's very difficult to start a blueberry bush from seed.
Step 3
Locate an appropriate spot for planting in your yard with full sun. Soil in the area should have a pH level between 5.0 and 5.2, according to Oklahoma State University. To adjust the pH level, treat the soil with sulfur at least six months before planting.
Step 4
Dig one hole for each blueberry bush, leaving a space of at least 5 feet between each one. The hole should be slightly deeper than the root bulb of the plant.
Step 5
Place the new bushes in the holes and cover with mulch or peat moss.
Step 6
Monitor the soil moisture for the blueberry plants, being sure to give them at least 2 inches of water per week.
Step 7
Prune the plant only after three years have passed. Use hand-held pruning shears to trim the branches closest to the ground.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
A wide range of fruits exist in today's world with a diverse range of shapes, sizes, colors and flavors. One of the most commonly confused fruits among people is the humble tomato. Yes, it is indeed, technically speaking, a fruit. It may fascinate you to know that there are many other fruits that look like a tomato.
Persimmon
The most widely cultivated species of persimmon is the Japanese persimmon, also known as "kaki." It is generally a light yellow-orange to dark red-orange in color and looks very much like a tomato in many cases. Persimmons have a soft texture and a sweet, slightly tangy taste, and their size can very from a few oz. to more than 1 lbs.
Sharon Fruit
Sharon fruit is a relative of the persimmon. The name originates from Israel's Sharon Valley, where the fruit was originally cultivated. Today they also are grown in South Africa. Sharon fruit is a tomato-like fruit that is orange in color and has a tough skin. It is a sweet, seedless fruit that has no core. Sharon fruit are just like persimmons, but with the astringency removed. They can be eaten as is, without peeling the skin.
Tamarillo
In most parts of the world the tamarillo is known as the "tree tomato." In New Zealand however, it is known as a tamarillo, due to a decision by the New Zealand Tree Tomato Promotions Council to change the name in an attempt to add to its exotic appeal and distinguish it from other garden tomatoes. The tamarillo comes in various colors such as deep purple, dark red, orange and yellow. It is low in calories and a good source of vitamin C.
Physalis
Physalis, or cape gooseberry, is a fruit commonly grown in South Africa and Columbia. It is orange in color and similar in structure to a cherry tomato. It has many health benefits such as being a source of vitamin C, iron, calcium, and contains small amounts of vitamin B.
Pepino Dulce
A pepino dulce is a tomato-like fruit with a sweet taste and a texture similar to a tomato. It originates from Columbia, Peru and Chile, but is also commercially cultivated in New Zealand and Western Australia. Pepino dulce comes in many colors such as yellow, green, cream, purple, or green or cream with purple stripes; it is a relative of the tomato.
Persimmon
The most widely cultivated species of persimmon is the Japanese persimmon, also known as "kaki." It is generally a light yellow-orange to dark red-orange in color and looks very much like a tomato in many cases. Persimmons have a soft texture and a sweet, slightly tangy taste, and their size can very from a few oz. to more than 1 lbs.
Sharon Fruit
Sharon fruit is a relative of the persimmon. The name originates from Israel's Sharon Valley, where the fruit was originally cultivated. Today they also are grown in South Africa. Sharon fruit is a tomato-like fruit that is orange in color and has a tough skin. It is a sweet, seedless fruit that has no core. Sharon fruit are just like persimmons, but with the astringency removed. They can be eaten as is, without peeling the skin.
Tamarillo
In most parts of the world the tamarillo is known as the "tree tomato." In New Zealand however, it is known as a tamarillo, due to a decision by the New Zealand Tree Tomato Promotions Council to change the name in an attempt to add to its exotic appeal and distinguish it from other garden tomatoes. The tamarillo comes in various colors such as deep purple, dark red, orange and yellow. It is low in calories and a good source of vitamin C.
Physalis
Physalis, or cape gooseberry, is a fruit commonly grown in South Africa and Columbia. It is orange in color and similar in structure to a cherry tomato. It has many health benefits such as being a source of vitamin C, iron, calcium, and contains small amounts of vitamin B.
Pepino Dulce
A pepino dulce is a tomato-like fruit with a sweet taste and a texture similar to a tomato. It originates from Columbia, Peru and Chile, but is also commercially cultivated in New Zealand and Western Australia. Pepino dulce comes in many colors such as yellow, green, cream, purple, or green or cream with purple stripes; it is a relative of the tomato.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Phoenix, the capital of Arizona, is situated in the Sonoran Desert. Growing blueberries in Phoenix can be tricky because of its hot, dry climate. However, several steps can help you to grow fully ripened fruits that carry a sweet taste and aroma not easily found in a grocery store. Even in a desert environment such as Phoenix, blueberry plants can grow to 3 feet to 4 feet tall and 20 inches wide or larger.
Step 1
Purchase a container in which to grow your blueberries, and pour in a potting soil mix that includes a blend of peat moss and compost so that the container is 3/4 full. Collect a sample of your soil and take it to a local laboratory in Phoenix to have it tested. The test will let you know what other amendments, if any, you must add to your soil.
Step 2
The ideal soil pH for blueberries generally is between 4.5 and 5.5. You will have to use a container in Phoenix because acidic soil is required for plants to grow and produce well. The soil in Phoenix is too alkaline, as it is composed mainly of clay and has large deposits of calcium carbonate.
Step 3
Buy a blueberry plant variety that has a low chill requirement, such as Southmoon, Sharpblue or Sunshine Blue, which will work well in Phoenix's desert climate. A low chill requirement is the amount of time a plant must be exposed to temperatures between 32 degrees Fahrenheit and 45 degrees Fahrenheit before it will come out of dormancy.
Step 4
Place your blueberry starter plant into the container, ensuring the container is large enough to handle the plant's existing root system. Situate the plant at the same level it was while in the initial pot, and firm the potting mix around the plant. Put the container in an area that receives exposure to full sun. The plant needs at least six hours of sun in order to thrive and will be able to handle full desert sun as long as it is well watered.
Step 5
Water your Phoenix blueberry plant whenever it feels dry, testing it daily with your finger. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer containing a commercial acidifying additive or vinegar to the plant each week from mid-February to Labor Day. This will compensate for the alkaline Arizona water you give your plant, which will cause the soil to lose its acidity over time.
Step 6
Pour 1/4 cup of coffee grounds over the soil every other week. This will further add acidity to the plant's soil, which will improve its production.
Step 7
Remove dead branches and twiggy growth from your blueberry plant. Make sure the plant remains in a round shape.
Step 1
Purchase a container in which to grow your blueberries, and pour in a potting soil mix that includes a blend of peat moss and compost so that the container is 3/4 full. Collect a sample of your soil and take it to a local laboratory in Phoenix to have it tested. The test will let you know what other amendments, if any, you must add to your soil.
Step 2
The ideal soil pH for blueberries generally is between 4.5 and 5.5. You will have to use a container in Phoenix because acidic soil is required for plants to grow and produce well. The soil in Phoenix is too alkaline, as it is composed mainly of clay and has large deposits of calcium carbonate.
Step 3
Buy a blueberry plant variety that has a low chill requirement, such as Southmoon, Sharpblue or Sunshine Blue, which will work well in Phoenix's desert climate. A low chill requirement is the amount of time a plant must be exposed to temperatures between 32 degrees Fahrenheit and 45 degrees Fahrenheit before it will come out of dormancy.
Step 4
Place your blueberry starter plant into the container, ensuring the container is large enough to handle the plant's existing root system. Situate the plant at the same level it was while in the initial pot, and firm the potting mix around the plant. Put the container in an area that receives exposure to full sun. The plant needs at least six hours of sun in order to thrive and will be able to handle full desert sun as long as it is well watered.
Step 5
Water your Phoenix blueberry plant whenever it feels dry, testing it daily with your finger. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer containing a commercial acidifying additive or vinegar to the plant each week from mid-February to Labor Day. This will compensate for the alkaline Arizona water you give your plant, which will cause the soil to lose its acidity over time.
Step 6
Pour 1/4 cup of coffee grounds over the soil every other week. This will further add acidity to the plant's soil, which will improve its production.
Step 7
Remove dead branches and twiggy growth from your blueberry plant. Make sure the plant remains in a round shape.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
People have grown grapevines (Vitus spp.) for thousands of years, not only enjoying the plants' fruits fresh but also in the form of raisins, juice and wine. Although wildlife may compete with you for the bounty of your vineyard, it's still possible to grow enough of the fruits at home to give you and your family a healthful and tasty treat, though it won't happen overnight. Usually, establishing a successful grapevine planting takes three years, according to the Ohio State University Extension. Because grapevines can live up to 100 years, growing them right is worth the trouble.
Check Your Climate
Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Choose Where to Plant
A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow.
Plant Correctly
Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space.
Support Your Vines
The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly
Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results:
Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth.
Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines.
Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer.
Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year.
Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Provide Water and Mulch
Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches.
Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
Check Your Climate
Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Choose Where to Plant
A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow.
Plant Correctly
Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space.
Support Your Vines
The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly
Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results:
Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth.
Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines.
Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer.
Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year.
Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Provide Water and Mulch
Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches.
Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Wine grapes come in over 5,000 varieties each ranging in different colors, flavors and sweetness. Unlike other fruits, grapes stop ripening once they are plucked from the vine. Once you have plucked a bunch of sour grapes, you are stuck with them. Eating sour grapes can set your "teeth on edge" and may even make your tummy upset. For most people, eating a sour treat is not enjoyable. Sweeten up your sour grapes to make them more palatable.
Step 1
Pluck the grapes from one bunch from their stems, which should yield between 20 to 40 grapes. Place them on a tray and freeze them for at least three hours. You can use any color grapes for this recipe.
Step 2
Whisk the egg whites of two eggs with 1/8 teaspoon of lemon juice in a glass bowl. This mixture makes a sort of glue that holds the sugar in place. If you have an egg allergy, you can use an egg substitute.
Step 3
Pour 2 cups of white granulated sugar in another bowl. Working in batches of five or 10, drop the grapes in the egg mixture, blot them dry to remove the excess egg, then roll them in the sugar.
Step 4
Arrange the sugared grapes on decorative trays and serve them immediately.
Step 1
Pluck the grapes from one bunch from their stems, which should yield between 20 to 40 grapes. Place them on a tray and freeze them for at least three hours. You can use any color grapes for this recipe.
Step 2
Whisk the egg whites of two eggs with 1/8 teaspoon of lemon juice in a glass bowl. This mixture makes a sort of glue that holds the sugar in place. If you have an egg allergy, you can use an egg substitute.
Step 3
Pour 2 cups of white granulated sugar in another bowl. Working in batches of five or 10, drop the grapes in the egg mixture, blot them dry to remove the excess egg, then roll them in the sugar.
Step 4
Arrange the sugared grapes on decorative trays and serve them immediately.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Pomegranate shrubs are one of the easiest fruits to keep since they are usually not affected by many pests or diseases. The fruits are full of antioxidants and thought to have many health benefits. The scientific name assigned to this shrub is Punica granatum. It used to have its own family, Punicaceae, but studies have shown that it is part of the Lythraceae family. The name used for this fruit shrub is Pomegranate. It is sometimes misspelled as Pomegranite.
The Pomegranate can range from a dwarf shrub of 3 feet (90 cm) to a small tree of 20 to 30 feet (6 to 9 m). The average size of a standard Pomegranate shrub is 12 to 16 feet (3.6 to 4.8 m) tall with a round shape. If you want a short version, choose the ‘Nana’ variety. The leaves are glossy and have a narrow, lance shape. In most places they are deciduous, but in the warmer climates may be evergreen. The flowers are tube shaped and over 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. They are a brilliant scarlet red, and are very attractive to hummingbirds. The flowers are self-pollinating, though fertility is improved through cross pollination. The Pomegranate fruit is approximately 2.5 to 5 inches (6 to 13 cm) wide. It has a red, leathery rind. Each seed is encased in pulp and sectioned off by walls.
Harvest when the color has developed and makes a metallic sound when tapped. Use a pair of pruning shears to cut the stem above the fruit instead of pulling it off. They can be stored for a long time if kept around 32 to 40 ºF (0 to 4.5 ºC).
Growing Conditions
Light: Pomegranate shrubs may be grown in part shade as necessary, but ideally should be placed somewhere with as much sun and warmth as possible.
Water: The Pomegranate is drought tolerant, though irrigation is needed for proper fruit production, per the California Rare Fruit Growers. Water every 2 to 4 weeks during the dry season when you are establishing new shrubs.
Hardiness Zones: The optimal areas for this fruit are USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10. It is thought to come from Iran initially.
Soil: The Pomegranate does best in well-drained soil, though it is able to thrive in a wide variety of soils from acid loam to alkaline soil.
Fertilizer: Fertilize in November and March for the first two years. Otherwise, not much fertilizer is usually needed in subsequent years.
Design Tips
The Pomegranate shrub is somewhat drought tolerant and also salt tolerant. It is perfect for the sunniest and warmest locations in the yard that might scorch other plants. Pomegranate flowers can be used along with other annuals, perennials, shrubs and trees that attract hummingbirds. The pomegranate is a popular choice for bonsai. The bark is a red-brown color, and branches may have spines.
Propagation
Propagation is through cuttings taken in winter and air layering. Seeds may be used, but varieties may not stay true.
Pruning
Pomegranates are prone to producing suckers, so remove them as they appear.
Pruning procedures: Cut the pomegranate back once it is 2 feet (60 cm) high. Allow 4 to 5 shoots to develop about 1 feet (30 cm) above ground. For the first three years keep shortening the branches to encourage shoot development. Fruit only develops where there is new growth. After 3 years, just prune away dead, damaged or diseased branches.
Pests and Diseases
Pomegranate shrubs are one of the easier fruits to work with since they are not usually affected by many pests or diseases. Possible pests may include pomegranate butterfly, thrips, scale, mealy bugs and white flies. Deer will sometimes eat the leaves, and occasionally gophers will chew on the roots. Diseases include leaf spot, fruit spot, twig dieback, dry rot and soft rot.
Additional Facts
Some believe that the fruit in the Garden of Eden was really a pomegranate.
In Greek mythology, Persephone was kidnapped and taken to the Underworld to be Hades’ (God of Underworld) bride. She was rescued and allowed to leave on condition that she had not eaten anything down there.
However, she had eaten part of a pomegranate while she was down there, so she spent eternity living among the mortal for half of the year and the Underworld for the other half.
The Pomegranate can range from a dwarf shrub of 3 feet (90 cm) to a small tree of 20 to 30 feet (6 to 9 m). The average size of a standard Pomegranate shrub is 12 to 16 feet (3.6 to 4.8 m) tall with a round shape. If you want a short version, choose the ‘Nana’ variety. The leaves are glossy and have a narrow, lance shape. In most places they are deciduous, but in the warmer climates may be evergreen. The flowers are tube shaped and over 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. They are a brilliant scarlet red, and are very attractive to hummingbirds. The flowers are self-pollinating, though fertility is improved through cross pollination. The Pomegranate fruit is approximately 2.5 to 5 inches (6 to 13 cm) wide. It has a red, leathery rind. Each seed is encased in pulp and sectioned off by walls.
Harvest when the color has developed and makes a metallic sound when tapped. Use a pair of pruning shears to cut the stem above the fruit instead of pulling it off. They can be stored for a long time if kept around 32 to 40 ºF (0 to 4.5 ºC).
Growing Conditions
Light: Pomegranate shrubs may be grown in part shade as necessary, but ideally should be placed somewhere with as much sun and warmth as possible.
Water: The Pomegranate is drought tolerant, though irrigation is needed for proper fruit production, per the California Rare Fruit Growers. Water every 2 to 4 weeks during the dry season when you are establishing new shrubs.
Hardiness Zones: The optimal areas for this fruit are USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10. It is thought to come from Iran initially.
Soil: The Pomegranate does best in well-drained soil, though it is able to thrive in a wide variety of soils from acid loam to alkaline soil.
Fertilizer: Fertilize in November and March for the first two years. Otherwise, not much fertilizer is usually needed in subsequent years.
Design Tips
The Pomegranate shrub is somewhat drought tolerant and also salt tolerant. It is perfect for the sunniest and warmest locations in the yard that might scorch other plants. Pomegranate flowers can be used along with other annuals, perennials, shrubs and trees that attract hummingbirds. The pomegranate is a popular choice for bonsai. The bark is a red-brown color, and branches may have spines.
Propagation
Propagation is through cuttings taken in winter and air layering. Seeds may be used, but varieties may not stay true.
Pruning
Pomegranates are prone to producing suckers, so remove them as they appear.
Pruning procedures: Cut the pomegranate back once it is 2 feet (60 cm) high. Allow 4 to 5 shoots to develop about 1 feet (30 cm) above ground. For the first three years keep shortening the branches to encourage shoot development. Fruit only develops where there is new growth. After 3 years, just prune away dead, damaged or diseased branches.
Pests and Diseases
Pomegranate shrubs are one of the easier fruits to work with since they are not usually affected by many pests or diseases. Possible pests may include pomegranate butterfly, thrips, scale, mealy bugs and white flies. Deer will sometimes eat the leaves, and occasionally gophers will chew on the roots. Diseases include leaf spot, fruit spot, twig dieback, dry rot and soft rot.
Additional Facts
Some believe that the fruit in the Garden of Eden was really a pomegranate.
In Greek mythology, Persephone was kidnapped and taken to the Underworld to be Hades’ (God of Underworld) bride. She was rescued and allowed to leave on condition that she had not eaten anything down there.
However, she had eaten part of a pomegranate while she was down there, so she spent eternity living among the mortal for half of the year and the Underworld for the other half.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Opuntia, also known as Prickly Pear Cacti are easily identified by their upside-down pear-shaped pads or segments. Their fleshy pads produce large showy flowers in the spring that turn into red, spiny fruits later in the season. There are more than 150 varieties of Prickly Pear Cacti, all of which are hardy in Sunset’s Climate Zones 12 through 24. These drought-tolerant plants make very low-maintenance houseplants that add a bit of Southwestern flair to a room’s decor. Prickly Pear Cacti are easily propagated through cuttings.
1. Put on heavy work gloves to protect your hands from injury while working with the cactus. Take a cutting from a healthy, disease-free Prickly Pear Cactus. Harvest cuttings only when nighttime temperatures are a constant 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose a pad, or oval segment, without blemish or scars that is 6 months old. Grasp the top of the pad gently in one hand. Cut the pad off the parent plant at the natural seam at its bottom using a knife.
2. Place the cutting on a flat surface in filtered sunlight. Choose a dry room that has constant temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or higher. Leave the cutting for 7 to 10 days to form callus tissue over the cut edge.
3. Mix one part perlite with one part compost to create a well-draining growing medium to plant the cactus in. Fill a container with the mixture, leaving the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) empty. Use a container with drainage holes in its bottom.
4. Set the cactus cutting with the callused edge resting on the soil in the center of the pot. Push one-third to one-half of the cutting into the soil mixture. Tamp the soil down around the base of the cactus until the cutting is able to stand upright on its own.
5. Water the planted cutting using a watering can until the soil is evenly moist. Place the pot in a warm room — 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer — in filtered sunlight. Water the cactus when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil begins to dry out.
6. Decrease supplemental watering to 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water applied every seven days once the cactus becomes established and begins to produce new growth. Follow this water regimen during the months when nighttime temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Give the cactus 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
7. Move the cactus to full sunlight indoors once it begins producing new growth to begin acclimating it to brighter light. Move the cactus to full sunlight outdoors after 2 weeks if you eventually plan to plant the cactus outdoors in the ground.
8. Grow the cactus in the container for at least one year. Transplant the cactus plant in the spring once soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Plant the cactus in an area that receives full sunlight and contains well-draining soil. Dig a hole equal in depth and twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Place the root ball in the center of the hole. Backfill the hole with soil and tamp it down firmly. Water the cactus immediately after planting.
9. Water the planted cactus once per week when nighttime temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Water the cactus every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
1. Put on heavy work gloves to protect your hands from injury while working with the cactus. Take a cutting from a healthy, disease-free Prickly Pear Cactus. Harvest cuttings only when nighttime temperatures are a constant 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose a pad, or oval segment, without blemish or scars that is 6 months old. Grasp the top of the pad gently in one hand. Cut the pad off the parent plant at the natural seam at its bottom using a knife.
2. Place the cutting on a flat surface in filtered sunlight. Choose a dry room that has constant temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or higher. Leave the cutting for 7 to 10 days to form callus tissue over the cut edge.
3. Mix one part perlite with one part compost to create a well-draining growing medium to plant the cactus in. Fill a container with the mixture, leaving the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) empty. Use a container with drainage holes in its bottom.
4. Set the cactus cutting with the callused edge resting on the soil in the center of the pot. Push one-third to one-half of the cutting into the soil mixture. Tamp the soil down around the base of the cactus until the cutting is able to stand upright on its own.
5. Water the planted cutting using a watering can until the soil is evenly moist. Place the pot in a warm room — 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer — in filtered sunlight. Water the cactus when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil begins to dry out.
6. Decrease supplemental watering to 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water applied every seven days once the cactus becomes established and begins to produce new growth. Follow this water regimen during the months when nighttime temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Give the cactus 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
7. Move the cactus to full sunlight indoors once it begins producing new growth to begin acclimating it to brighter light. Move the cactus to full sunlight outdoors after 2 weeks if you eventually plan to plant the cactus outdoors in the ground.
8. Grow the cactus in the container for at least one year. Transplant the cactus plant in the spring once soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Plant the cactus in an area that receives full sunlight and contains well-draining soil. Dig a hole equal in depth and twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Place the root ball in the center of the hole. Backfill the hole with soil and tamp it down firmly. Water the cactus immediately after planting.
9. Water the planted cactus once per week when nighttime temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Water the cactus every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Carpobrotus, commonly known as Pigface, Ice Plant, and Hottentot Plant, is a genus of ground-creeping plants with succulent leaves and large daisy-like flowers. The name refers to the edible fruits. It comes from the Ancient Greek karpos (“fruit”) and brota (“edible”).
The genus includes about 20 accepted species. Most are South African, endemics, but there are at least four Australian species and one South American.
Various Carpobrotus species are invasive introduced species in suitable climates throughout the world. The harm they do is variable, and sometimes hotly debated, when balanced against their value as firebreaks and as food for wildlife.
Growing Conditions
Carpobrotus is a perennial plant in its chosen zones but also thrives as an annual in colder areas. The best temperature range for the succulent is between 40 and 100 ˚F (4 – 14 ˚C), but some protection from the sun’s scorching rays may be required in the higher temperature ranges.
Growing Carpobrotus in planters prevents it from spreading in those areas where that is a concern. Freezing temperatures may cause the plant to die back, but it will resprout in spring in temperate area.
Propagation
Stem cutting is the fastest way to propagate this fast growing plants. Seeds are also available and you may start them indoors at least six weeks before the date of the last frost.
General Care
Ice plants are notoriously un-fussy. As long as their soil drains well, the soil is allowed to dry out between watering and the plant receives pinching or pruning to keep it in shape, there is little more to be done.
The only serious threats to the plant’s health are spittle bugs and some root rots and stem rots. You can avoid the rot by minimizing overhead watering during periods in which the plant will not dry off before nightfall. The bugs will remove themselves if you spray with a horticultural soap.
Growing Carpobrotus in containers is ideal, and you can overwinter them in temperate regions. Just bring the pot in and water it deeply. Cut back the plant and let it dry out and languish for the winter in a warm location. In March, resume regular watering and move the plant to a full light situation where it has some protection from burning rays. Gradually reintroduce the plant to temperatures outdoors until it can tolerate a full day outside.
The genus includes about 20 accepted species. Most are South African, endemics, but there are at least four Australian species and one South American.
Various Carpobrotus species are invasive introduced species in suitable climates throughout the world. The harm they do is variable, and sometimes hotly debated, when balanced against their value as firebreaks and as food for wildlife.
Growing Conditions
Carpobrotus is a perennial plant in its chosen zones but also thrives as an annual in colder areas. The best temperature range for the succulent is between 40 and 100 ˚F (4 – 14 ˚C), but some protection from the sun’s scorching rays may be required in the higher temperature ranges.
Growing Carpobrotus in planters prevents it from spreading in those areas where that is a concern. Freezing temperatures may cause the plant to die back, but it will resprout in spring in temperate area.
Propagation
Stem cutting is the fastest way to propagate this fast growing plants. Seeds are also available and you may start them indoors at least six weeks before the date of the last frost.
General Care
Ice plants are notoriously un-fussy. As long as their soil drains well, the soil is allowed to dry out between watering and the plant receives pinching or pruning to keep it in shape, there is little more to be done.
The only serious threats to the plant’s health are spittle bugs and some root rots and stem rots. You can avoid the rot by minimizing overhead watering during periods in which the plant will not dry off before nightfall. The bugs will remove themselves if you spray with a horticultural soap.
Growing Carpobrotus in containers is ideal, and you can overwinter them in temperate regions. Just bring the pot in and water it deeply. Cut back the plant and let it dry out and languish for the winter in a warm location. In March, resume regular watering and move the plant to a full light situation where it has some protection from burning rays. Gradually reintroduce the plant to temperatures outdoors until it can tolerate a full day outside.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
A small genus of two species, Neowerdermannia is a genus of spiny globose cacti which are very similar to the genus Gymnocalycium. Flowers are bourne near the apex and have naked floral tubes with scales – eiter white or pink. The fruits are globose and dehiscent.
The body features ribs which are not clearly defined and broken into rather pronounced tubercles. Areoles are small at the top of the tubercles (not the ends) and give rise to as many as 20 stout spines which may be curved or even hooked.
The plants in this genus are found in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, though apparently not in great numbers. It is even more scarce in cultivation and grown by enthusiasts, but not commercially.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for sunny-brightly exposure; can tolerate light shade.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while Neowerdermannias are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Temperature: Neowerdermannias are very cold resistant as low as to 14° C (-10° C) or less for short periods of time.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Propagation
Seeds, also can be grown from cutting or graft. Seeds can be sown in the spring or summer. The seedlings should not be disturbed until they are well rooted, after which they can be planted separately in small pots.
Pests and Problems
Neowerdermannias are especially prone to root rot, therefore, underpot in a smaller container filled with very porous compost.
Grower’s Tips
Neowerdermannias come from mountainous areas, so like bright light, cool and dry conditions in the winter; this is important for the flowers as well as for their health. Without this cool winter period 32-50° F (0-10° C) they normally won’t get many buds. They have a thick taproot and are of difficult cultivation and rot prone because of a great sensitivity to the excess of watering, not easy to get to any large size on their own roots really a challenge to grow into a large clump. Needs deep pot and good drainage to accommodate its tap root. They are commonly grafted to avoid root problems and to make easier to grow. On a graft Neowerdermannias are easier to grow, but the body splits if over-watered (especially in spring).
The body features ribs which are not clearly defined and broken into rather pronounced tubercles. Areoles are small at the top of the tubercles (not the ends) and give rise to as many as 20 stout spines which may be curved or even hooked.
The plants in this genus are found in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, though apparently not in great numbers. It is even more scarce in cultivation and grown by enthusiasts, but not commercially.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for sunny-brightly exposure; can tolerate light shade.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while Neowerdermannias are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Temperature: Neowerdermannias are very cold resistant as low as to 14° C (-10° C) or less for short periods of time.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Propagation
Seeds, also can be grown from cutting or graft. Seeds can be sown in the spring or summer. The seedlings should not be disturbed until they are well rooted, after which they can be planted separately in small pots.
Pests and Problems
Neowerdermannias are especially prone to root rot, therefore, underpot in a smaller container filled with very porous compost.
Grower’s Tips
Neowerdermannias come from mountainous areas, so like bright light, cool and dry conditions in the winter; this is important for the flowers as well as for their health. Without this cool winter period 32-50° F (0-10° C) they normally won’t get many buds. They have a thick taproot and are of difficult cultivation and rot prone because of a great sensitivity to the excess of watering, not easy to get to any large size on their own roots really a challenge to grow into a large clump. Needs deep pot and good drainage to accommodate its tap root. They are commonly grafted to avoid root problems and to make easier to grow. On a graft Neowerdermannias are easier to grow, but the body splits if over-watered (especially in spring).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Despite its name, the pickleworm’s favorite meal is squash, both winter and summer types. These pinkish or green caterpillars feed on the blossoms, stems, and developing fruits of squash, cucumbers, cantaloupe and some pumpkins.
Pickleworms overwinter in tropical zones and as adult moths they migrate northward in early summer to lay their eggs on susceptible plants. Pickleworm larvae feed on flowers and tunnel into young fruits before pupating. With two to four generations per year, pickleworms are year-round pests in the southernmost part of the U.S. They can migrate as far north as the Carolinas during the summer.
Prevention and Control
Plant as early as possible so crops are harvested before late summer, when damage is usually greatest.
In southern areas of Florida and Texas, pull up and destroy vines and leftover fruits after harvest, along with nearby weeds, to minimize opportunities for the pest to overwinter.
Pickleworms overwinter in tropical zones and as adult moths they migrate northward in early summer to lay their eggs on susceptible plants. Pickleworm larvae feed on flowers and tunnel into young fruits before pupating. With two to four generations per year, pickleworms are year-round pests in the southernmost part of the U.S. They can migrate as far north as the Carolinas during the summer.
Prevention and Control
Plant as early as possible so crops are harvested before late summer, when damage is usually greatest.
In southern areas of Florida and Texas, pull up and destroy vines and leftover fruits after harvest, along with nearby weeds, to minimize opportunities for the pest to overwinter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Blossom-end rot, which begins with a small watery bruise on the blossom end of the fruit, is the result of a lack of calcium in developing fruits. This calcium deficiency can be a result of slow growth, damaged roots induced by extreme fluctuations in the surrounding soil moisture content, an excess of salts, or other fluctuating conditions during plant growth. Calcium deficiencies cause actively growing cells to die because they cannot retain water and nutrients.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossom-end rot begins as a water-soaked, sunken spot on the blossom end (the end that isn't attached to the stem) of the fruit. The spot may enlarge and become depressed as the fruit grows. The spot may turn from brown to black and become moldy. Blossom-end rot can be distinguished from other rots by its confinement to the blossom end. It may also be confused with rotting fruit that results from the failure of female flowers to set fruit due to lack of male flowers or pollinating insects.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant cucurbits in a location that has well-drained soil.
2. Mulch the plants and water properly to maintain a uniform moisture level in the soil. Avoid damaging the root system when hoeing or weeding.
3. Test the garden soil pH. Calcium may not be available to plants if the soil pH is too low or high.
4. Limit the use of high ammonia fertilizers and fresh manure that may stimulate lush growth and add more salts to the soil.
5. Add calcium nitrate to soil or spray with 1% calcium chloride in order to boost the amount of calcium available to developing fruit.
6. Cucurbits in containers. For cucurbits grown in containers, apply a fertilizer that contains micronutrients including calcium. Many fertilizers formulated for tomatoes meet these specifications.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossom-end rot begins as a water-soaked, sunken spot on the blossom end (the end that isn't attached to the stem) of the fruit. The spot may enlarge and become depressed as the fruit grows. The spot may turn from brown to black and become moldy. Blossom-end rot can be distinguished from other rots by its confinement to the blossom end. It may also be confused with rotting fruit that results from the failure of female flowers to set fruit due to lack of male flowers or pollinating insects.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant cucurbits in a location that has well-drained soil.
2. Mulch the plants and water properly to maintain a uniform moisture level in the soil. Avoid damaging the root system when hoeing or weeding.
3. Test the garden soil pH. Calcium may not be available to plants if the soil pH is too low or high.
4. Limit the use of high ammonia fertilizers and fresh manure that may stimulate lush growth and add more salts to the soil.
5. Add calcium nitrate to soil or spray with 1% calcium chloride in order to boost the amount of calcium available to developing fruit.
6. Cucurbits in containers. For cucurbits grown in containers, apply a fertilizer that contains micronutrients including calcium. Many fertilizers formulated for tomatoes meet these specifications.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Plum curculio, a snout beetle, is an important pest on stone fruits like plums, cherries, and peaches. Plum curculio is one of the most serious pests of peach trees; they lay eggs within the fruit and both adults and larvae feed on the fruit, causing brown rot of the fruit. On apples, plum curculio is considered the second most damaging pest after codling moth.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Plum curculio beetles, Conotrachelus nenuphar, can be found on plum, cherry, peach, and apple trees, less commonly on nectarine and pear trees. Fruit may fall prematurely, in late May and June. The skin of infected fruit has small crescent-shaped blemishes that eventually become swollen and knotted. Upon closer examination, larvae may be seen feeding near the blemishes. Infested fruit is often hard and misshapen. The larvae create holes in the fruit skin when they leave the fruit to pupate. These holes are clean-cut and free of frass or webbing.
Life Cycle
Plum curculio beetles are dark brown, about 1/4 inch long, and have a prominent snout, measuring about 1/3 the length of their bodies. They have four characteristic humps on their wing covers. Adults may overwinter in the soil or in hedgerows near host trees. These adults emerge from their overwintering sites to feed on trees in early spring. Females lay eggs within the fruit. The larvae that emerge from the developing fruit have grayish-white, worm-like bodies with brown heads and can be seen on infested trees in late summer. Larvae may feed on the fruit for 2–3 weeks before they burrow into the ground to pupate. Adults emerge in mid- to latesummer to cause more feeding damage on mature fruit before they overwinter.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Shake infested trees. In backyards with only a handful of infested trees, plum curculios may be shaken out of infested trees. This technique works best early in the day when the beetles are sluggish. Lay paper or cloth underneath the trees to collect the beetles. Destroy the collected beetles.
2. Clean up fallen fruit in which eggs or larvae may be developing.
3. Cultivate the soil surrounding infested trees in late spring or early summer to destroy pupating larvae that may have fallen to the ground with the fruit or pupae that may be developing in burrows in the ground.
4. Apply insecticides when populations of adult beetles are severe. Apply carbaryl (Sevin) spray to curb feeding damage and prevent beetles from laying eggs. It is important to delay application of the pesticide until after flower petals drop to avoid harming pollinating insects. Reapply pesticides two more times, at 10–14 day intervals. Other pesticides registered for use include azadirachtin (Bio-Neem, Margosan-O), Beauvaria bassiana, malathion, and pyrethrins.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Plum curculio beetles, Conotrachelus nenuphar, can be found on plum, cherry, peach, and apple trees, less commonly on nectarine and pear trees. Fruit may fall prematurely, in late May and June. The skin of infected fruit has small crescent-shaped blemishes that eventually become swollen and knotted. Upon closer examination, larvae may be seen feeding near the blemishes. Infested fruit is often hard and misshapen. The larvae create holes in the fruit skin when they leave the fruit to pupate. These holes are clean-cut and free of frass or webbing.
Life Cycle
Plum curculio beetles are dark brown, about 1/4 inch long, and have a prominent snout, measuring about 1/3 the length of their bodies. They have four characteristic humps on their wing covers. Adults may overwinter in the soil or in hedgerows near host trees. These adults emerge from their overwintering sites to feed on trees in early spring. Females lay eggs within the fruit. The larvae that emerge from the developing fruit have grayish-white, worm-like bodies with brown heads and can be seen on infested trees in late summer. Larvae may feed on the fruit for 2–3 weeks before they burrow into the ground to pupate. Adults emerge in mid- to latesummer to cause more feeding damage on mature fruit before they overwinter.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Shake infested trees. In backyards with only a handful of infested trees, plum curculios may be shaken out of infested trees. This technique works best early in the day when the beetles are sluggish. Lay paper or cloth underneath the trees to collect the beetles. Destroy the collected beetles.
2. Clean up fallen fruit in which eggs or larvae may be developing.
3. Cultivate the soil surrounding infested trees in late spring or early summer to destroy pupating larvae that may have fallen to the ground with the fruit or pupae that may be developing in burrows in the ground.
4. Apply insecticides when populations of adult beetles are severe. Apply carbaryl (Sevin) spray to curb feeding damage and prevent beetles from laying eggs. It is important to delay application of the pesticide until after flower petals drop to avoid harming pollinating insects. Reapply pesticides two more times, at 10–14 day intervals. Other pesticides registered for use include azadirachtin (Bio-Neem, Margosan-O), Beauvaria bassiana, malathion, and pyrethrins.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Peach leaf curl is a springtime disease caused by the fungus, Taphrina deformans. It infects the leaves and shoots of peaches and nectarines. Apricots are immune. It is one of the most common diseases of these fruits. It causes the leaves to curl and turn reddish in color. A severe infection can cause reduced yields. 
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Symptoms first appear in spring. New leaves become curled and develop reddish areas. The reddish areas become thickened and puckered resulting in severely distorted leaves. As the disease progresses, the thickened areas turn yellowish gray and become covered with velvety spores. Affected leaves turn yellow or brown and fall prematurely. Affected shoots usually send out new leaves which often are unaffected by the disease unless rainy weather ensues. In more severe infections, shoots may become thickened and die.
Aphids can also cause leaves to curl. If present, the insects or cast skins will be evident to the naked eye.
Life Cycle
The fungus overwinters on bud scales, on twigs, and on fallen infected leaves. In spring the fungal spores are splashed onto newly developing leaves. During cool, wet weather the spores germinate on the young leaves and initiate infection. Development of the disease slows as temperatures increase. Older leaves are resistant to infection. Consequently, the disease is most prevalent in the spring.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Keep plant healthy — avoid excess fertilization. A healthy plant can better withstand the loss of leaves, but excess fertilization can cause succulent tissue that is very susceptible to infection.
2. Clean up diseased leaves. Raking up and disposing of diseased leaves can't hurt, but its value in controlling the disease is slight.
3. Don't panic.Once infection has occurred fungicidal sprays are not effective. A healthy plant should refoliate. Because refoliation normally occurs during warmer, dryer weather, re-infection is usually not a problem. Thinning the fruit crop in years of severe infection can also help maintain plant vigor. To limit damage the year after a moderate to severe infection, follow the protective spray program below.
4. Use properly timed protective fungicidal sprays. If leaf curl was a problem in the spring, apply a protective fungicidal spray after leaf fall in October or November or before bud break in late winter, January through February. After buds have begun to swell fungicidal sprays are not satisfactory. Do not apply to foliage. Chemicals effective in controlling leaf curl include copper-based fungicides like Bordeaux mixture, Bravo, lime-sulfur spray, or other brands that list the control of peach leaf curl on their label.
5. Replace the tree with a more disease tolerant variety. If you want to avoid using fungicidal sprays, consider replacing the tree with a more tolerant variety. ‘Redhaven’ and cultivars derived from ‘Redhaven’ have greater tolerance to peach leaf curl disease.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Symptoms first appear in spring. New leaves become curled and develop reddish areas. The reddish areas become thickened and puckered resulting in severely distorted leaves. As the disease progresses, the thickened areas turn yellowish gray and become covered with velvety spores. Affected leaves turn yellow or brown and fall prematurely. Affected shoots usually send out new leaves which often are unaffected by the disease unless rainy weather ensues. In more severe infections, shoots may become thickened and die.
Aphids can also cause leaves to curl. If present, the insects or cast skins will be evident to the naked eye.
Life Cycle
The fungus overwinters on bud scales, on twigs, and on fallen infected leaves. In spring the fungal spores are splashed onto newly developing leaves. During cool, wet weather the spores germinate on the young leaves and initiate infection. Development of the disease slows as temperatures increase. Older leaves are resistant to infection. Consequently, the disease is most prevalent in the spring.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Keep plant healthy — avoid excess fertilization. A healthy plant can better withstand the loss of leaves, but excess fertilization can cause succulent tissue that is very susceptible to infection.
2. Clean up diseased leaves. Raking up and disposing of diseased leaves can't hurt, but its value in controlling the disease is slight.
3. Don't panic.Once infection has occurred fungicidal sprays are not effective. A healthy plant should refoliate. Because refoliation normally occurs during warmer, dryer weather, re-infection is usually not a problem. Thinning the fruit crop in years of severe infection can also help maintain plant vigor. To limit damage the year after a moderate to severe infection, follow the protective spray program below.
4. Use properly timed protective fungicidal sprays. If leaf curl was a problem in the spring, apply a protective fungicidal spray after leaf fall in October or November or before bud break in late winter, January through February. After buds have begun to swell fungicidal sprays are not satisfactory. Do not apply to foliage. Chemicals effective in controlling leaf curl include copper-based fungicides like Bordeaux mixture, Bravo, lime-sulfur spray, or other brands that list the control of peach leaf curl on their label.
5. Replace the tree with a more disease tolerant variety. If you want to avoid using fungicidal sprays, consider replacing the tree with a more tolerant variety. ‘Redhaven’ and cultivars derived from ‘Redhaven’ have greater tolerance to peach leaf curl disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Gray mold of strawberries is caused by a fungus, Botrytis cinerea, which infects both the flowers and fruits. Because of this, Botrytis can greatly reduce fruit yields and is considered one of the most damaging diseases of strawberry. Botrytis is most prevalent during prolonged cool, wet weather during bloom and near harvest.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossoms commonly turn brown and die. A soft, light brown rot may appear on any part of the berry, but generally occurs first in the area of the cap, destroying the berry within 48 hours. The infected fruit spot is at first a light brown color and somewhat soft in texture. As the entire berry becomes infected, the rotted area becomes firm and turns a darker brown color. Fruits soon "mummify" and, like the blossoms, become covered with a gray, dusty powder which are the spores of the Botrytis fungus. Berries resting on damp soil or touching infected plant parts are most commonly infected.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi overwinter as dark-colored, resting bodies (sclerotia) on dead tissue. In the spring during cool humid weather, spores form and spread by wind or water to wounded or extremely soft plant tissues. Infection can also occur from growth of fungal mycelium from previously infected plant parts. The fungus can survive on decaying vegetation so it can infect healthy plants throughout the growing season.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove infected plant parts. Collecting and removing infected plant parts can slow the spread of the disease. This should be done frequently especially during fruit bearing time.
2. Improve air circulation around the plants. Space plants widely and prune leaves so that adequate air flow may speed drying of the vegetation. Work with plants when they are dry.
3. Avoid spring applications of nitrogen fertilizer. High nitrogen levels promote excessive leaf growth and available surfaces for infection.
4. Harvest regularly. Remove and dispose of rotten or severely damaged fruit throughout the season.
5. Move plants to a better location.Select sites for planting that have good air circulation, are not shaded, and not subject to frost injury.
6. Use fungicide sprays, if necessary. Apply a fungicide at 5–10% bloom and at full bloom. Fungicides may be reapplied every 7–10 days during wet seasons. Pesticides registered for use include captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), copper, iprodione (Chipco), mancozeb, sulfur, thiram, and ziram.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Blossoms commonly turn brown and die. A soft, light brown rot may appear on any part of the berry, but generally occurs first in the area of the cap, destroying the berry within 48 hours. The infected fruit spot is at first a light brown color and somewhat soft in texture. As the entire berry becomes infected, the rotted area becomes firm and turns a darker brown color. Fruits soon "mummify" and, like the blossoms, become covered with a gray, dusty powder which are the spores of the Botrytis fungus. Berries resting on damp soil or touching infected plant parts are most commonly infected.
Life Cycle
Botrytis fungi overwinter as dark-colored, resting bodies (sclerotia) on dead tissue. In the spring during cool humid weather, spores form and spread by wind or water to wounded or extremely soft plant tissues. Infection can also occur from growth of fungal mycelium from previously infected plant parts. The fungus can survive on decaying vegetation so it can infect healthy plants throughout the growing season.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove infected plant parts. Collecting and removing infected plant parts can slow the spread of the disease. This should be done frequently especially during fruit bearing time.
2. Improve air circulation around the plants. Space plants widely and prune leaves so that adequate air flow may speed drying of the vegetation. Work with plants when they are dry.
3. Avoid spring applications of nitrogen fertilizer. High nitrogen levels promote excessive leaf growth and available surfaces for infection.
4. Harvest regularly. Remove and dispose of rotten or severely damaged fruit throughout the season.
5. Move plants to a better location.Select sites for planting that have good air circulation, are not shaded, and not subject to frost injury.
6. Use fungicide sprays, if necessary. Apply a fungicide at 5–10% bloom and at full bloom. Fungicides may be reapplied every 7–10 days during wet seasons. Pesticides registered for use include captan, chlorothalonil (Daconil), copper, iprodione (Chipco), mancozeb, sulfur, thiram, and ziram.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Wilting plant leaves, sagging stems, and aborting flowers and fruits. Dry soil, especially where new plants have not had a chance to put down deep roots. Dry compost in pots and hanging baskets, and pots blowing over.
Plants affected
All plants are affected.
About Wilting through lack of water
Plants have a vascular system which enables water and nutrients to be taken from the environment through a complex root system.
The continual flow of water and nutrients ensures that the vascular system remains firm, and that the plant continues to grow in a healthy way.
Lack of water results in a loss of firmness which causes the symptoms of wilting.
Plants respond to lack of water by closing down areas of the vascular system, which consequently results in leaf, flower and fruit loss.
Plants can usually recover from short periods of lack of water, but sustained periods of drought often result in death.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Wilting through lack of water
There is no chemical control available for this problem.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Water wilted plants as soon as possible.
Plunge pots with very wilted plants into a bucket of water for an hour or so.
After plunging or watering, place pots with wilted plants in the shade to recover, and consider moving them to a shady spot permanently.
Move wilted plants out of windy spots, and avoid putting them back in the same place.
If the problem is affecting plants in the greenhouse, after watering them, damp down the floor with a hose or watering can.
Prevention
Regularly monitor plants for wilting symptoms.
Design a watering schedule for plants based on their individual needs. As a general guide, pots need watering once a day, hanging baskets twice a day, new plants in the border need careful monitoring in their first year and will probably need watering two or three times a week. Established border plants will have deeper roots and will benefit most from one long drink each week rather than a daily dose.
For potted and hanging basket plants, water-retaining gel granules can be used in the compost.
The base of the pot or basket can also be lined with a plastic bag to help retain water. If lining a pot, make a few small holes in the bag with a kitchen fork so the compost does not get waterlogged.
Avoid planting delicate plants in locations of intense sunlight, or strong winds.
During summer use shading to protect greenhouse crops.
Incorporating mulch and organic material into the soil improves its water retention.
Plants affected
All plants are affected.
About Wilting through lack of water
Plants have a vascular system which enables water and nutrients to be taken from the environment through a complex root system.
The continual flow of water and nutrients ensures that the vascular system remains firm, and that the plant continues to grow in a healthy way.
Lack of water results in a loss of firmness which causes the symptoms of wilting.
Plants respond to lack of water by closing down areas of the vascular system, which consequently results in leaf, flower and fruit loss.
Plants can usually recover from short periods of lack of water, but sustained periods of drought often result in death.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Wilting through lack of water
There is no chemical control available for this problem.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Water wilted plants as soon as possible.
Plunge pots with very wilted plants into a bucket of water for an hour or so.
After plunging or watering, place pots with wilted plants in the shade to recover, and consider moving them to a shady spot permanently.
Move wilted plants out of windy spots, and avoid putting them back in the same place.
If the problem is affecting plants in the greenhouse, after watering them, damp down the floor with a hose or watering can.
Prevention
Regularly monitor plants for wilting symptoms.
Design a watering schedule for plants based on their individual needs. As a general guide, pots need watering once a day, hanging baskets twice a day, new plants in the border need careful monitoring in their first year and will probably need watering two or three times a week. Established border plants will have deeper roots and will benefit most from one long drink each week rather than a daily dose.
For potted and hanging basket plants, water-retaining gel granules can be used in the compost.
The base of the pot or basket can also be lined with a plastic bag to help retain water. If lining a pot, make a few small holes in the bag with a kitchen fork so the compost does not get waterlogged.
Avoid planting delicate plants in locations of intense sunlight, or strong winds.
During summer use shading to protect greenhouse crops.
Incorporating mulch and organic material into the soil improves its water retention.
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