文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Cercospora fruit spot is a common disease of citrus fruits but it also affects many other crops. What is cercospora? The disease is fungal and survives on any affected fruit in soil from the previous season. Read on to learn more. What is Cercospora? Fruit and crop management is an ongoing process. One of the key aspects is inspection of fruits and vegetables for disease and preventative measures early in the season to protect the crop. Cercospora leaf spot or fruit spot is a fungus that requires moisture and is wind borne. The disease survives in dormant lesions from previous season fruit.
Once warm, wet weather starts, the fungus disseminates condida, which are similar to a spore. These condida transfer from rain splash, mechanical transfer, or wind. The full name for this fungal disease is Pseudocercospora angolensis. Leaves of affected plants will produce circular spots with light brown to grayish centers. When the rainy season sets in, these spots become dark and almost black with a yellow halo. Leaves generally fall off after a period. Stem lesions are not frequent but you may find twig dieback. The fruit gets dark spots that may produce a tumor-like growth surrounded by a halo. These will sink in and develop necrosis. Early fruit that is immature will drop. Cercospora fungus in mature fruits will dry up and become tough. Symptoms are slightly different on various crops. Okra will develop a sooty mold on leaves and carrots get more necrotic spots on young leaves.
Roses will develop cercospora leaf spot as lesions and dark sunken areas on the leaves. Other crops affected are: Bean Beetroot Capsicum (peppers) Watercress Avocado Fig Coffee Cercospora Fungus Damage In well managed crops, it does not usually run rampant but the disease can produce unsavory fruit and diminish harvest. To preserve the best fruit, treatment of cercospora should start with cleanup of downed fruit at the end of the season and commence with fungicides applied in the spring. In small infestations, the few fruit affected will not limit crop yield much, but in heavily diseased plants, the entire crop may become useless. Not only are fruits unsightly and unappetizing, but they are not juicy or tasty. The necrotic areas from cercospora fruit spot are dry, tough, and woody in some species, creating a poor eating experience. These rather ugly fruits are impossible to sell and provide a dilemma as to disposal. In the compost pile, the fungus can survive unless temperatures are hot enough to destroy the condida. Fruit cleanup in affected areas is necessary to prevent the spread of cercospora leaf spot in the next season’s crop. Treatment of Cercospora In addition to cleaning up dropped fruit, it may be necessary to destroy heavily infected crops in fall. There are also fungal sprays and dusts recommended for control of cercospora.
Treatment must begin in the wet, rainy season when temperatures have warmed. It is advised to rotate the chemicals used yearly to minimize the chance of resistance. A second application may be required in wet, humid regions. Use all sprays and dusts in a manner consistent with the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are in doubt, use a licensed professional to apply the treatments.
Once warm, wet weather starts, the fungus disseminates condida, which are similar to a spore. These condida transfer from rain splash, mechanical transfer, or wind. The full name for this fungal disease is Pseudocercospora angolensis. Leaves of affected plants will produce circular spots with light brown to grayish centers. When the rainy season sets in, these spots become dark and almost black with a yellow halo. Leaves generally fall off after a period. Stem lesions are not frequent but you may find twig dieback. The fruit gets dark spots that may produce a tumor-like growth surrounded by a halo. These will sink in and develop necrosis. Early fruit that is immature will drop. Cercospora fungus in mature fruits will dry up and become tough. Symptoms are slightly different on various crops. Okra will develop a sooty mold on leaves and carrots get more necrotic spots on young leaves.
Roses will develop cercospora leaf spot as lesions and dark sunken areas on the leaves. Other crops affected are: Bean Beetroot Capsicum (peppers) Watercress Avocado Fig Coffee Cercospora Fungus Damage In well managed crops, it does not usually run rampant but the disease can produce unsavory fruit and diminish harvest. To preserve the best fruit, treatment of cercospora should start with cleanup of downed fruit at the end of the season and commence with fungicides applied in the spring. In small infestations, the few fruit affected will not limit crop yield much, but in heavily diseased plants, the entire crop may become useless. Not only are fruits unsightly and unappetizing, but they are not juicy or tasty. The necrotic areas from cercospora fruit spot are dry, tough, and woody in some species, creating a poor eating experience. These rather ugly fruits are impossible to sell and provide a dilemma as to disposal. In the compost pile, the fungus can survive unless temperatures are hot enough to destroy the condida. Fruit cleanup in affected areas is necessary to prevent the spread of cercospora leaf spot in the next season’s crop. Treatment of Cercospora In addition to cleaning up dropped fruit, it may be necessary to destroy heavily infected crops in fall. There are also fungal sprays and dusts recommended for control of cercospora.
Treatment must begin in the wet, rainy season when temperatures have warmed. It is advised to rotate the chemicals used yearly to minimize the chance of resistance. A second application may be required in wet, humid regions. Use all sprays and dusts in a manner consistent with the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are in doubt, use a licensed professional to apply the treatments.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
This exotic-looking evergreen member of the Heath family can grows to a height of 12m. With its glossy evergreen leaves and either flowers or fruits (sometimes both) present in every month of the year, the Strawberry Tree is easy to recognise.
Identification
The short-stalked leaves of this much-branching woody plant are hairless, glossy green, oval and slightly toothed. Trunk and branches are brown with reddish tinges towards the bristly growing tips.
Typical of members of the Ericaceae, the drooping flowers are bell like; they are typically 8mm long and 5mm in diameter, sometimes white but more often tinged with red, pink or green. Smelling like honey, the flowers are particularly attractive to bees, including honey bees. Fruits of the Strawberry Tree start off green but turn orange and eventually red; they do look a little bit like their ground-hugging namesakes, but instread of seeds on the surface there are pyramidal outgrowths all over the spherical fruits. When fully ripened they taste quite pleasant (but not much like strawberries) although with a hint of bitterness.
Distribution
Arbutus unedo is a native of the Mediterranean region, most plentiful in the west. We see lots of Strawberry Trees in southern Portugal, where they grow wild in the hills around Monchique in the Algarve region and in the Alantejo further north.
Habitat
The Strawberry Tree is most commonly found on poor soils in maquis habitats, but occasionally plants can be seen on woodland edges and around field margins, generally on higher ground well away from the coast.
Blooming Times
Arbutus unedo produces its flowers between October and April.
Uses
Although the fruits of Arbutus unedo do not taste anywhere near as nice as they look (they are a bit like lychees), the Portuguese use them to make Aguardente de Medronhos, a brandy-like alcholic drink sometimes called simply Medronho.
The wood of the Strawberry Tree can be used to make high-grade charcoal.
Similar Species
Arbutus andrachne, the Eastern Strawberry Tree, is found in Crete and parts of the eastern Mediterranean. The flowers are erect rather than pendent, and the papery bark of the tree is orange-red and peels off in strips.
Identification
The short-stalked leaves of this much-branching woody plant are hairless, glossy green, oval and slightly toothed. Trunk and branches are brown with reddish tinges towards the bristly growing tips.
Typical of members of the Ericaceae, the drooping flowers are bell like; they are typically 8mm long and 5mm in diameter, sometimes white but more often tinged with red, pink or green. Smelling like honey, the flowers are particularly attractive to bees, including honey bees. Fruits of the Strawberry Tree start off green but turn orange and eventually red; they do look a little bit like their ground-hugging namesakes, but instread of seeds on the surface there are pyramidal outgrowths all over the spherical fruits. When fully ripened they taste quite pleasant (but not much like strawberries) although with a hint of bitterness.
Distribution
Arbutus unedo is a native of the Mediterranean region, most plentiful in the west. We see lots of Strawberry Trees in southern Portugal, where they grow wild in the hills around Monchique in the Algarve region and in the Alantejo further north.
Habitat
The Strawberry Tree is most commonly found on poor soils in maquis habitats, but occasionally plants can be seen on woodland edges and around field margins, generally on higher ground well away from the coast.
Blooming Times
Arbutus unedo produces its flowers between October and April.
Uses
Although the fruits of Arbutus unedo do not taste anywhere near as nice as they look (they are a bit like lychees), the Portuguese use them to make Aguardente de Medronhos, a brandy-like alcholic drink sometimes called simply Medronho.
The wood of the Strawberry Tree can be used to make high-grade charcoal.
Similar Species
Arbutus andrachne, the Eastern Strawberry Tree, is found in Crete and parts of the eastern Mediterranean. The flowers are erect rather than pendent, and the papery bark of the tree is orange-red and peels off in strips.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Grape vines not only produce sweet and versatile fruits, they add an element of drama to a garden or landscape. They are vigorous growers, and with the proper pruning, they will produce fruit with ease and can last longer than 30 years.
There are three different types of grapes: American (V. labrusca), European (V. viniferia), and North American native Muscadine (V. rotundifolia). American grapes are the most cold-hardy, while European grapes, usually more for wine than the table, do well in warm, dry, Mediterranean type zones. Hybrids are available. Thick skinned Muscadines thrive in the South.
Make sure you purchase grape vines from a reputable nursery. Vigorous, 1-year-old plants are best. Smaller, sometimes weaker, 1-year-old plants are often held over by the nursery to grow another year and are then sold as 2-year-old stock. Obtain certified virus-free stock when possible.
PLANTING
Plant dormant, bare-root grape vines in the early spring.
Construct a trellis or arbor before planting. Grape vines will need to be trained to some sort of support to grow upward. This will also cut the risk of disease.
Most grape varieties are self-fertile. To be sure, ask when you are buying vines if you will need more than one plant for pollination.
Before planting grapevines, soak their roots in water for two or three hours.
Select a site with full sun. If you don’t have a spot with full sun, make sure it at least gets morning sun. A small amount of afternoon shade won’t hurt. Your soil needs to be deep, well-drained, and loose. You also need good air circulation.
Space vines 6 to 10 feet apart (16 feet for muscadines).
For each vine, dig a planting hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill with 4 inches of topsoil. Trim off broken roots and set the vine into the hole slightly deeper than it grew in the nursery. Cover the roots with 6 inches of soil and tamp down. Fill with the remaining soil, but don’t tamp this down.
Prune the top back to two or three buds at planting time.
Water at time of planting.
CARE
In the first couple of years, the vine should not be allowed to produce fruit. It needs to strengthen its root system before it can support the extra weight of fruit.
Pruning is important. Not only would vines run rampant without control, but canes will only produce fruit once. Prune annually when vines are dormant, in March or April. This is before the buds start to swell, but when winter damage is apparent.
Don’t be afraid to remove at least 90 percent of the previous season’s growth. This will ensure a higher quality product. Remember, the more you prune, the more grapes you will have.
In the first year, cut back all buds except for 2 or 3. Then, select a couple of strong canes and cut back the rest. Make sure the remaining canes are fastened to the support.
In the second year, prune back all canes. Leave a couple of buds on each of the arms. Remove flower clusters as they form.
Do not fertilize in the first year unless you have problem soil. Fertilize lightly in the second year of growth.
Use mulch to keep an even amount of moisture around the vines.
A mesh net is useful in keeping birds away from budding fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Japanese Beetles
Powdery Mildew
Black Rot
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Grape vines not only produce sweet and versatile fruits, they add an element of drama to a garden or landscape. They are vigorous growers, and with the proper pruning, they will produce fruit with ease and can last longer than 30 years.
There are three different types of grapes: American (V. labrusca), European (V. viniferia), and North American native Muscadine (V. rotundifolia). American grapes are the most cold-hardy, while European grapes, usually more for wine than the table, do well in warm, dry, Mediterranean type zones. Hybrids are available. Thick skinned Muscadines thrive in the South.
Make sure you purchase grape vines from a reputable nursery. Vigorous, 1-year-old plants are best. Smaller, sometimes weaker, 1-year-old plants are often held over by the nursery to grow another year and are then sold as 2-year-old stock. Obtain certified virus-free stock when possible.
PLANTING
Plant dormant, bare-root grape vines in the early spring.
Construct a trellis or arbor before planting. Grape vines will need to be trained to some sort of support to grow upward. This will also cut the risk of disease.
Most grape varieties are self-fertile. To be sure, ask when you are buying vines if you will need more than one plant for pollination.
Before planting grapevines, soak their roots in water for two or three hours.
Select a site with full sun. If you don’t have a spot with full sun, make sure it at least gets morning sun. A small amount of afternoon shade won’t hurt. Your soil needs to be deep, well-drained, and loose. You also need good air circulation.
Space vines 6 to 10 feet apart (16 feet for muscadines).
For each vine, dig a planting hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill with 4 inches of topsoil. Trim off broken roots and set the vine into the hole slightly deeper than it grew in the nursery. Cover the roots with 6 inches of soil and tamp down. Fill with the remaining soil, but don’t tamp this down.
Prune the top back to two or three buds at planting time.
Water at time of planting.
CARE
In the first couple of years, the vine should not be allowed to produce fruit. It needs to strengthen its root system before it can support the extra weight of fruit.
Pruning is important. Not only would vines run rampant without control, but canes will only produce fruit once. Prune annually when vines are dormant, in March or April. This is before the buds start to swell, but when winter damage is apparent.
Don’t be afraid to remove at least 90 percent of the previous season’s growth. This will ensure a higher quality product. Remember, the more you prune, the more grapes you will have.
In the first year, cut back all buds except for 2 or 3. Then, select a couple of strong canes and cut back the rest. Make sure the remaining canes are fastened to the support.
In the second year, prune back all canes. Leave a couple of buds on each of the arms. Remove flower clusters as they form.
Do not fertilize in the first year unless you have problem soil. Fertilize lightly in the second year of growth.
Use mulch to keep an even amount of moisture around the vines.
A mesh net is useful in keeping birds away from budding fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Japanese Beetles
Powdery Mildew
Black Rot
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0
文章
扭扭
2017年05月23日
Growing strawberries in gutters is the best way to use up your vertical space smartly. Strawberries are super easy fruits to grow in gutters, it also saves them from diseases like crown rot and fruit rot.
You can try to grow strawberries upside down too, learn here.
Things You’ll Need for Growing Strawberries in Gutters
A simple PVC pipe with a diameter of 10 cm., hole saw to make holes. You will also need something to clog pipe from both sides.
1. Step One
Image Credit: ogrodwcentrum
Divide PVC pipes into equal sizes as many you want and make holes according to the size of pipe (approx. 5 cm). Use hole saw to make holes. You’ll also need to make a few hole for drainage on the bottom. Then clog pipe from both sides.
2. Step Two
Image Credit: ogrodwcentrum
Now fill up the soil in the holes you made and plant strawberry plants carefully in each hole. Take care that the crown of strawberry plants should not be covered in soil.
3. Step Three
You can try to grow strawberries upside down too, learn here.
Things You’ll Need for Growing Strawberries in Gutters
A simple PVC pipe with a diameter of 10 cm., hole saw to make holes. You will also need something to clog pipe from both sides.
1. Step One
Image Credit: ogrodwcentrum
Divide PVC pipes into equal sizes as many you want and make holes according to the size of pipe (approx. 5 cm). Use hole saw to make holes. You’ll also need to make a few hole for drainage on the bottom. Then clog pipe from both sides.
2. Step Two
Image Credit: ogrodwcentrum
Now fill up the soil in the holes you made and plant strawberry plants carefully in each hole. Take care that the crown of strawberry plants should not be covered in soil.
3. Step Three
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0
文章
扭扭
2017年05月23日
Want to grow so many strawberries in so little space? Try one of these vertical DIY ideas for growing strawberries!
The fresh and juicy strawberries are one of the best fruits you can grow in containers
Also Read: How to Grow Strawberries
1. Vertical Strawberry Tube Planter
Ordinary PVC pipes are used for growing tons of strawberry plants in a small space, unbelievable. When you lack an appropriate garden space or yard, a vertical gardening idea like this can be tried. All you need for this DIY idea is a few PVC pipes, a drilling machine, and of course, some gardening essentials. Just keep in mind that vertical units require careful watering, so the last thing you would want is for them to dry out. The tutorial is available here!
2. Vertical Pyramid Planter
Go vertical, if you lack enough room to plant. A strawberry tower planter gives you the additional planting and growing space you need to showcase your love for this much-loved fruit. It’s an unusual and functional DIY garden project you can try. See the step by step DIY article here!
3. Hanging Basket
Growing strawberries in hanging baskets is possible and easy enough. An average-sized basket can fit a few strawberry plants. So, all you have to do is fill it up with the right rich potting soil and water regularly. That’s it! Check out the DIY tutorial on this site.
Also Read: The Right Time to Plant Strawberries
4. Strawberry Pallet Planter
A strawberry pallet planter is a clever idea to grow plants like strawberries that spread through runners; it also improves the productivity of this fruit. Pallets are cheap and sturdy; you can use them to create a raised bed like structure. Must see the tutorial post here!
5. Hanging Strawberry Planters
Growing strawberries up in the air in hanging containers is a simple and easy way to grow a lot of plants in a little to no space. Choose some big tin cans as a planter, also some cool color paint. This perfect idea of recycling used TIN CANS can be found here.
6. Strawberry Tower
A strawberry tower with an in-built reservoir is an excellent and unique way to grow juicy and fresh strawberries when you’re short of space. Easy to maintain, it is made of an array of plastic pots stacked up one on top of each other in the form of a tower. Also, the inbuilt reservoir makes watering a lot easier. This fantastic step by step DIY idea is curated from A Piece of Rainbow.
7. Strawberry Gutter Garden
Strawberries are super easy fruits to grow in gutters; it also saves them from diseases like crown rot and fruit rot. Also, this you can grow so many plants. See the step by step DIY idea with pictures here.
8. Stepped Strawberry Ladder
Not only the strawberries but you can also grow vegetables and herbs following this smart idea. You will need some help with the assembly process, though, as this is one of those DIY ideas for growing strawberries that need considerable effort. Once the structure is complete, fill up the planter boxes with the correct potting soil, seedlings and then watch them grow. The step by step article is available here.
Also Read: Vertical Garden Ideas for Small Gardens
9. A Strawberry Jar
A strawberry jar is a fun way to plant strawberries. After all, what is more, appealing than a nicely painted jar brimming with lush, green suckers and deep red berries. The one thing that makes these jars unique is that they have holes on their sides in addition to the top. This facilitates easy watering and proper care. To increase variety, plant another ornamental or edible plant, such as thyme or cilantro along with the strawberries, if you like. Click here to learn more this DIY idea.
The fresh and juicy strawberries are one of the best fruits you can grow in containers
Also Read: How to Grow Strawberries
1. Vertical Strawberry Tube Planter
Ordinary PVC pipes are used for growing tons of strawberry plants in a small space, unbelievable. When you lack an appropriate garden space or yard, a vertical gardening idea like this can be tried. All you need for this DIY idea is a few PVC pipes, a drilling machine, and of course, some gardening essentials. Just keep in mind that vertical units require careful watering, so the last thing you would want is for them to dry out. The tutorial is available here!
2. Vertical Pyramid Planter
Go vertical, if you lack enough room to plant. A strawberry tower planter gives you the additional planting and growing space you need to showcase your love for this much-loved fruit. It’s an unusual and functional DIY garden project you can try. See the step by step DIY article here!
3. Hanging Basket
Growing strawberries in hanging baskets is possible and easy enough. An average-sized basket can fit a few strawberry plants. So, all you have to do is fill it up with the right rich potting soil and water regularly. That’s it! Check out the DIY tutorial on this site.
Also Read: The Right Time to Plant Strawberries
4. Strawberry Pallet Planter
A strawberry pallet planter is a clever idea to grow plants like strawberries that spread through runners; it also improves the productivity of this fruit. Pallets are cheap and sturdy; you can use them to create a raised bed like structure. Must see the tutorial post here!
5. Hanging Strawberry Planters
Growing strawberries up in the air in hanging containers is a simple and easy way to grow a lot of plants in a little to no space. Choose some big tin cans as a planter, also some cool color paint. This perfect idea of recycling used TIN CANS can be found here.
6. Strawberry Tower
A strawberry tower with an in-built reservoir is an excellent and unique way to grow juicy and fresh strawberries when you’re short of space. Easy to maintain, it is made of an array of plastic pots stacked up one on top of each other in the form of a tower. Also, the inbuilt reservoir makes watering a lot easier. This fantastic step by step DIY idea is curated from A Piece of Rainbow.
7. Strawberry Gutter Garden
Strawberries are super easy fruits to grow in gutters; it also saves them from diseases like crown rot and fruit rot. Also, this you can grow so many plants. See the step by step DIY idea with pictures here.
8. Stepped Strawberry Ladder
Not only the strawberries but you can also grow vegetables and herbs following this smart idea. You will need some help with the assembly process, though, as this is one of those DIY ideas for growing strawberries that need considerable effort. Once the structure is complete, fill up the planter boxes with the correct potting soil, seedlings and then watch them grow. The step by step article is available here.
Also Read: Vertical Garden Ideas for Small Gardens
9. A Strawberry Jar
A strawberry jar is a fun way to plant strawberries. After all, what is more, appealing than a nicely painted jar brimming with lush, green suckers and deep red berries. The one thing that makes these jars unique is that they have holes on their sides in addition to the top. This facilitates easy watering and proper care. To increase variety, plant another ornamental or edible plant, such as thyme or cilantro along with the strawberries, if you like. Click here to learn more this DIY idea.
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文章
Mirella
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow bitter melon. Growing bitter gourd is easy. This healthy vegetable grows up quickly and fruits productively. You can also grow it in pots.
USDA Zones— 6-11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— African Cucumber, Ampalaya, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Chinli-Chih, Cundeamor, Fructus Mormordicae Grosvenori, Karavella, Kathilla, Karela, Kareli, Kerala, Kuguazi, K’u-Kua, Lai Margose, Melón Amargo, Melon Amer, Momordica, Momordica charantia, Momordica murcata, Momordique, Pepino Montero, P’u-T’ao, Sorosi, Sushavi, Vegetable insulin, Wild Cucumber
Bitter Melon is one of the most popular vegetables grown in South-East Asia. Like cucumber, melon or pumpkin it belongs to the gourd family. A native of Indian subcontinent it is used in Asian delicacies. It one of the healthiest vegetables and has many medicinal uses. It has a uniquely bitter and crunchy taste.
Bitter Melon (Bitter Gourd) Information
This very short living tropical perennial climber with thin stems can grow up to 5 m in length. Like other plants of this family, it needs support. Both the stem and lobed leaves are hairy. Bitter melon produces yellow flowers, male or female, which are pollinated by insects.
Bitter taste fruits are eaten unripe when they are still green or slightly pale. They have delicate skin and can be eaten after cooking. Inside there are large seeds. The flesh somewhat resembles a cucumber and is watery and crusty.
How to Grow Bitter MelonPropagation
Seeds can be purchased online or in garden shops. You can also use seeds you get from ripe yellow fruits. Ripe seeds have a crimson red color coat. Germination is not difficult, but there are some tricks to make it faster.
Seeds will germinate slowly in 3-4 weeks if you directly sow them without pre-treatment, especially in low temperatures. But to increase germination rate and for the faster germination, you have to scarify them to remove seed coat. For this, rub the seeds from one side without making any damage to endosperm inside the seed coat. Soaking seeds for 24 hours in water before sowing will also help.
Planting Bitter Melon
Sow seeds 2 cm deep. Seeds can be sown directly into the ground or in the containers but only when the risk of frost has passed and the soil warms up enough. Seeds require the temperature above 70 F (20 C) for germination.
In temperate regions best seed sowing time is summer, usually between late April to May. Whereas in tropics (USDA Zone 10, 11), you can start seeds anytime.
Types and Varieties
There are two types of bitter melons. One from India, which is smaller in size and has spiny skin and the other one is from China. Chinese bitter melons are milder in taste, generally large and smoothly ridged. If you want the higher yield, choose hybrid variety.
How to Grow Bitter Gourd in Pots
Growing bitter gourd (bitter melon) in pots is easy. Similar to squashes, cucumbers, and melons. You’ll need a 12 inches deep pot and a sturdy trellis. However, the bitter melon vine can grow more than 5 m (16 feet) long. A trellis or any other support structure that is at least 5-6 feet tall is required. Once the vine has reached that height you’ll have to redirect it.
Requirements for Growing Bitter Melon
This plant is cultivated in the same way like squashes, melons or cucumbers.
Position
Provide full sun to this vine and it will produce heavily. Also, as it is a tall vine you will need to provide it a support. A tall trellis or a garden fence. If you want to grow it on your patio, terrace or balcony grow it near the wall so that it can go up along with it.
Soil
It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers permeable, sandy loam soil that is very rich in organic matter. Bitter melon grows in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil. The pH range around 6 to 7.1 is ideal.
Watering
It can tolerate drought like conditions for a short time but regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist is essential to ensure a good yield.
Temperature
In the initial phase of growth, growing bitter gourds require a temperature more than 70 F (20 C). Humid and warm temperature accelerate the growth of the plant. It is more resistant to low temperatures than other plants of this family but requires the hot temperature and humidity to grow.
Bitter Melon Plant CareFertilizer
Overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizers should be avoided, which could encourage the development of foliage at the expense of fruits. At the time of planting, you can mix slow-release complete fertilizer in the soil. Enriching the soil with compost or well-rotted aged manure and regular inputs of organic matter will be enough later. Still, if your plant is not growing well, you can feed it with liquid vegetable fertilizer once in a month.
Trellising
Bitter gourd perks up very quickly and within two weeks after planting you must arrange something to support it. You can also grow this vine on pergolas, arches or arbor.
Growing bitter gourd vertically increases the yield and fruit size, moreover, in the case of growing horizontally on the ground, there is a high risk of fruit rot and fungal infection to the plant.
Pruning
The plant produces numerous side shoots, which must be removed to improve yield, remove the side shoots (lateral branches) until the runner reaches the top of the trellis. Leave only 4–6 laterals and cut the tip of the main runner to improve the productivity of the plant.
Overwintering
In cooler climates bitter gourds are grown as annual so you may not need to care about overwintering.
Pollination
Pollinators like bees will do the pollination for you so be good to them. If you don’t find pollinators around the flowers you may need to hand pollinate them in the morning.
Pests and Diseases
It is prone to diseases like watermelon mosaic virus, other cucurbit diseases, and powdery mildew. In pests, it gets affected by aphids and spider mites.
Harvesting
Bitter melon starts to fruit quickly in 2 months. Harvest fruits when they are green, little pale and unripe and about the size of 3 to 6 inches (depending more on the variety and type). Within 6 to 8 weeks after the germination, you’ll see the blossoms and in the next 2-3 weeks, fruits will appear and are ready to be picked.
USDA Zones— 6-11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— African Cucumber, Ampalaya, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Chinli-Chih, Cundeamor, Fructus Mormordicae Grosvenori, Karavella, Kathilla, Karela, Kareli, Kerala, Kuguazi, K’u-Kua, Lai Margose, Melón Amargo, Melon Amer, Momordica, Momordica charantia, Momordica murcata, Momordique, Pepino Montero, P’u-T’ao, Sorosi, Sushavi, Vegetable insulin, Wild Cucumber
Bitter Melon is one of the most popular vegetables grown in South-East Asia. Like cucumber, melon or pumpkin it belongs to the gourd family. A native of Indian subcontinent it is used in Asian delicacies. It one of the healthiest vegetables and has many medicinal uses. It has a uniquely bitter and crunchy taste.
Bitter Melon (Bitter Gourd) Information
This very short living tropical perennial climber with thin stems can grow up to 5 m in length. Like other plants of this family, it needs support. Both the stem and lobed leaves are hairy. Bitter melon produces yellow flowers, male or female, which are pollinated by insects.
Bitter taste fruits are eaten unripe when they are still green or slightly pale. They have delicate skin and can be eaten after cooking. Inside there are large seeds. The flesh somewhat resembles a cucumber and is watery and crusty.
How to Grow Bitter MelonPropagation
Seeds can be purchased online or in garden shops. You can also use seeds you get from ripe yellow fruits. Ripe seeds have a crimson red color coat. Germination is not difficult, but there are some tricks to make it faster.
Seeds will germinate slowly in 3-4 weeks if you directly sow them without pre-treatment, especially in low temperatures. But to increase germination rate and for the faster germination, you have to scarify them to remove seed coat. For this, rub the seeds from one side without making any damage to endosperm inside the seed coat. Soaking seeds for 24 hours in water before sowing will also help.
Planting Bitter Melon
Sow seeds 2 cm deep. Seeds can be sown directly into the ground or in the containers but only when the risk of frost has passed and the soil warms up enough. Seeds require the temperature above 70 F (20 C) for germination.
In temperate regions best seed sowing time is summer, usually between late April to May. Whereas in tropics (USDA Zone 10, 11), you can start seeds anytime.
Types and Varieties
There are two types of bitter melons. One from India, which is smaller in size and has spiny skin and the other one is from China. Chinese bitter melons are milder in taste, generally large and smoothly ridged. If you want the higher yield, choose hybrid variety.
How to Grow Bitter Gourd in Pots
Growing bitter gourd (bitter melon) in pots is easy. Similar to squashes, cucumbers, and melons. You’ll need a 12 inches deep pot and a sturdy trellis. However, the bitter melon vine can grow more than 5 m (16 feet) long. A trellis or any other support structure that is at least 5-6 feet tall is required. Once the vine has reached that height you’ll have to redirect it.
Requirements for Growing Bitter Melon
This plant is cultivated in the same way like squashes, melons or cucumbers.
Position
Provide full sun to this vine and it will produce heavily. Also, as it is a tall vine you will need to provide it a support. A tall trellis or a garden fence. If you want to grow it on your patio, terrace or balcony grow it near the wall so that it can go up along with it.
Soil
It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers permeable, sandy loam soil that is very rich in organic matter. Bitter melon grows in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil. The pH range around 6 to 7.1 is ideal.
Watering
It can tolerate drought like conditions for a short time but regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist is essential to ensure a good yield.
Temperature
In the initial phase of growth, growing bitter gourds require a temperature more than 70 F (20 C). Humid and warm temperature accelerate the growth of the plant. It is more resistant to low temperatures than other plants of this family but requires the hot temperature and humidity to grow.
Bitter Melon Plant CareFertilizer
Overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizers should be avoided, which could encourage the development of foliage at the expense of fruits. At the time of planting, you can mix slow-release complete fertilizer in the soil. Enriching the soil with compost or well-rotted aged manure and regular inputs of organic matter will be enough later. Still, if your plant is not growing well, you can feed it with liquid vegetable fertilizer once in a month.
Trellising
Bitter gourd perks up very quickly and within two weeks after planting you must arrange something to support it. You can also grow this vine on pergolas, arches or arbor.
Growing bitter gourd vertically increases the yield and fruit size, moreover, in the case of growing horizontally on the ground, there is a high risk of fruit rot and fungal infection to the plant.
Pruning
The plant produces numerous side shoots, which must be removed to improve yield, remove the side shoots (lateral branches) until the runner reaches the top of the trellis. Leave only 4–6 laterals and cut the tip of the main runner to improve the productivity of the plant.
Overwintering
In cooler climates bitter gourds are grown as annual so you may not need to care about overwintering.
Pollination
Pollinators like bees will do the pollination for you so be good to them. If you don’t find pollinators around the flowers you may need to hand pollinate them in the morning.
Pests and Diseases
It is prone to diseases like watermelon mosaic virus, other cucurbit diseases, and powdery mildew. In pests, it gets affected by aphids and spider mites.
Harvesting
Bitter melon starts to fruit quickly in 2 months. Harvest fruits when they are green, little pale and unripe and about the size of 3 to 6 inches (depending more on the variety and type). Within 6 to 8 weeks after the germination, you’ll see the blossoms and in the next 2-3 weeks, fruits will appear and are ready to be picked.
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文章
Juze
2017年05月22日
Guava tree care and growing is easy. With the information given in this article, you can understand how to grow guava tree in a pot. It will delight you with its sweetly scented flowers, delicious fruits, and beautiful tropical appearance.
USDA Hardiness Zones— 9 – 11, *can be grown in colder zones in pot
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Psidium guajava, Amrood, Amrut Phala, Araçá-Goiaba, Araçá-Guaçú, Banjiro, Brazilian Guava, Brazilian Red Guava, Common Guava, Fan Shi Liu, Feuille de Goyavier, Goiaba, Goiabeiro, Goyabe, Goyave, Goyave Jaune, Goyave Rouge, Goyavier, Goyavier du Brésil, Guaiaba, Guaiava, Guajava, Guava Leaf, Guava Leaves, Guava Peel, Guava Pulp, Guava Seed, Guava Seed Protein, Guavas, Guave, Guavenbaum, Guayaba, Guayabo, Guayave, Koejawel, Lemon Guava, Pépin de Goyave, Psidium, Psidium guajava, Pulpe de Goyave, Red Guava, Yellow Guava, Bihi
Guava Tree Information
Guava tree is a small tropical tree that grows 5-6 meters high on average, but if properly pruning it does not exceed the height of 3 m. It is a tough plant that can also be grown in containers.
Guava tree stems are tender when they are angled. The leaves are born in pairs, pale green, leathery and elongated, ending in the sharp tip with a length ranging between 10 and 20 cm and 8 cm wide. The flowers are borne at the base of the leaves, about 1-3 per node, in the younger branches with a great number of stamens and one pistil. Fruit shape, size, the color of flesh and skin usually depends on the variety. Maturity is observed when the shell reaches a yellowish-green, yellow, pink or pale color.
Also read: How to make Guava Bonsai
Best Guava Varieties
Over 100 varieties of guavas are identified in the world, different from each other by their flavor and appearance. Most of them can be grown in containers but we are listing some of the best.
Guava Ruby SupremeLucknow 49Psidium Guajava Nana (Dwarf Guava)Tikal GuavaRed Malaysian (Also grown for ornamental purposes)PatriciaIndonesian SeedlessIndonesian WhiteSafedaGuava Tree PropagationGrowing Guava from Cuttings
Guava is propagated from cuttings and seeds. Growing guava from cuttings require specific temperature and humidity, this method is suitable in warm climates.
Growing Guava from Seeds
Guava seeds are propagated easily with high germination rate. The main thing is that they must be fresh and obtained from the quality source. You can also use seed fresh seeds collected from the fruit but it is better to buy seeds from a seed store or online.
If you are using seeds obtained from guava fruit. Firstly, rinse them in soft water, which is not very cold then wrap the seeds in a cloth and dry them for a couple of hours. Then pour them in a cup of warm water and soak the seeds for 3-4 hours. Prepare a pot filled with seed starting mix, and sprinkle seeds in it. Now put the pot on a warm, well-lit spot, like a windowsill. To speed up germination, you can install a small plastic or cellophane over the top of a pot.
Guava tree grown from seeds take 3-4 years to mature and start to form fruits. From cuttings, it grows more quickly. However, our recommendation for you is to buy a grafted guava tree. Most of the grafted trees start to bear fruit in the same year and remain healthy.Planting Guava Tree
Choosing a pot
Guava tree grows large (around 30 feet) but in pots, it can be reduced to 2-3 m. Choose a pot that is at least 3 gallon (10 inches) to provide the plant a sufficient space to grow roots. *It is best to choose a clay pot with sufficient drainage holes in the bottom.
Also Read: How to Grow Pineapple Guava
Requirements for Growing Guava Tree in a PotLocation
Guava loves the sunny and warm exposure. It is a tropical plant but very much adaptable to temperate climates with moderate winter, when grown on the ground.
If you are growing guava in a container in tropics you can choose a location that receives shade in the afternoon and at least six hours of sun daily. In colder zones, place the plant in a spot that receives full sun for healthy growth and more fruiting.
Soil
For growing guava in pots choose a quality potting mix or make your own substrate using equal parts compost, sand, and soil.
Growing guava is possible in a variety of soil types. It is one of the plants that tolerates different soil types easily. It can be grown in heavy clay-rich or very sandy soil with pH ranging from 4.5 (acidic) to 9.4 (alkaline), but a loose, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and neutral to slightly acidic in pH is optimum.
When growing guava in a pot choose a self-pollinating variety.
Temperature range
The optimum temperature for germination of guavas falls in the range of 68 to 82 F (20 to 28 C). In winters, the temperature must not fall below 27 F (-3 C) for young guava trees. Mature guava tree (at least 3 years old) can bear temperature down to 20 F (-6 C). Remember, guavas are not frost tolerant, especially young plants, so if in a climate where the temperature falls below the range given here then it is better to keep the plant indoors until the temperature rises up.
Watering
When the plant is young or forming flowers water it regularly and deeply to keep the soil slightly moist. Evenly moist soil at the time of fruiting helps in developing more juicy and sweet fruits. In winter reduce the watering. One of the most interesting facts about guava trees is that they are drought tolerant and once established they can survive only on rainfall and bear long periods of drought. Still, it better to keep the soil slightly moist.
Guava Tree CareGuava tree care is simple and easy and with a few basic information, you can grow a healthy plant.Pruning
Pruning guava is essential to keep guava tree growing in a pot in desired shape and size to develop a strong structure, healthy plant and increased fruiting.
Dry, dead, damaged or diseased branches can be pruned anytime. The crowns grow naturally and well-branched and do not need regular cutting. Best is to cut back too long, unbranched shoots and branches that are crossing each other and blocking the penetration of sun rays after the harvest or at the beginning of growing season.
Fruit Thinning
Whenever the first time your guava tree blooms to form fruits it is better to deadhead the flowers, never allowing the fruits to set (do this if your plant is weak).
Allow no more than 4 fruits per branch. Also, thin out the fruits if they are developing on a small and weak branch.
Repotting
Repot the plant in one size bigger than the previous one. Never plant a plant in a too big pot directly, albeit change the pot time to time once the plant has outgrown the current one.
Fertilizer
Guava responds well to the monthly fertilizing. When the tree is young and is not bearing fruits, fertilize your potted guava tree with 6:6:6:2 [N P K Mg] to speed up the growth of the plant.
When the tree starts to bear fruits change the composition to 8:3:9:2 [N P K Mg].
Guava tree is also susceptible to iron deficiency (symptoms includes yellowing of the leaves in between the dark green veins). It can be corrected or prevented by periodic application chelated iron.
Mulching
Do mulching with organic matter so that the plant retains moisture. Mulching also helps in insulating the root of guava tree in winter.
Pests and Diseases
Guava tree care from pests and diseases is not much required when grown in a pot. This fruit tree is very tough but you should keep an eye on common garden pests. Mealy bugs, guava scale, white flies, fruit flies and thrips can affect it.
In diseases, guava plant suffers from rust, which occurs in too warm weather and high humidity.Besides this, anthracnose and leaf spot can be a problem too, both of these occurs in wet humid weather and spread through splashed water. By proper irrigation, you can easily prevent this.
Harvesting Guavas
Most of the guava tree varieties are self-pollinating and fruit ripens year round in tropics (except summer). Guava fruits usually mature in 3 to 4 months after flowering.
In India, generally, the main crop arrives in winter and after the summer in the rainy season. Winter crop is more flavorsome and sweet.
Uses
Guava fruits taste better when picked earlier than they fully mature. Fruits are highly nutritious, rich in vitamin C and can be eaten raw, its seeds are edible too. Ripened fruits can be used to make guava ice-cream, juice, jam, chutney, sauce or desserts.
A Few Guava Tree Care TipsDo not abruptly change the location of your potted guava tree otherwise the plant may lose leaves (partially).To get a bushy plant, it is necessary to pinch the growing tip regularly.It is advisable to suspend the fertilizer during the winters. In tropics, you can continue it.
USDA Hardiness Zones— 9 – 11, *can be grown in colder zones in pot
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Psidium guajava, Amrood, Amrut Phala, Araçá-Goiaba, Araçá-Guaçú, Banjiro, Brazilian Guava, Brazilian Red Guava, Common Guava, Fan Shi Liu, Feuille de Goyavier, Goiaba, Goiabeiro, Goyabe, Goyave, Goyave Jaune, Goyave Rouge, Goyavier, Goyavier du Brésil, Guaiaba, Guaiava, Guajava, Guava Leaf, Guava Leaves, Guava Peel, Guava Pulp, Guava Seed, Guava Seed Protein, Guavas, Guave, Guavenbaum, Guayaba, Guayabo, Guayave, Koejawel, Lemon Guava, Pépin de Goyave, Psidium, Psidium guajava, Pulpe de Goyave, Red Guava, Yellow Guava, Bihi
Guava Tree Information
Guava tree is a small tropical tree that grows 5-6 meters high on average, but if properly pruning it does not exceed the height of 3 m. It is a tough plant that can also be grown in containers.
Guava tree stems are tender when they are angled. The leaves are born in pairs, pale green, leathery and elongated, ending in the sharp tip with a length ranging between 10 and 20 cm and 8 cm wide. The flowers are borne at the base of the leaves, about 1-3 per node, in the younger branches with a great number of stamens and one pistil. Fruit shape, size, the color of flesh and skin usually depends on the variety. Maturity is observed when the shell reaches a yellowish-green, yellow, pink or pale color.
Also read: How to make Guava Bonsai
Best Guava Varieties
Over 100 varieties of guavas are identified in the world, different from each other by their flavor and appearance. Most of them can be grown in containers but we are listing some of the best.
Guava Ruby SupremeLucknow 49Psidium Guajava Nana (Dwarf Guava)Tikal GuavaRed Malaysian (Also grown for ornamental purposes)PatriciaIndonesian SeedlessIndonesian WhiteSafedaGuava Tree PropagationGrowing Guava from Cuttings
Guava is propagated from cuttings and seeds. Growing guava from cuttings require specific temperature and humidity, this method is suitable in warm climates.
Growing Guava from Seeds
Guava seeds are propagated easily with high germination rate. The main thing is that they must be fresh and obtained from the quality source. You can also use seed fresh seeds collected from the fruit but it is better to buy seeds from a seed store or online.
If you are using seeds obtained from guava fruit. Firstly, rinse them in soft water, which is not very cold then wrap the seeds in a cloth and dry them for a couple of hours. Then pour them in a cup of warm water and soak the seeds for 3-4 hours. Prepare a pot filled with seed starting mix, and sprinkle seeds in it. Now put the pot on a warm, well-lit spot, like a windowsill. To speed up germination, you can install a small plastic or cellophane over the top of a pot.
Guava tree grown from seeds take 3-4 years to mature and start to form fruits. From cuttings, it grows more quickly. However, our recommendation for you is to buy a grafted guava tree. Most of the grafted trees start to bear fruit in the same year and remain healthy.Planting Guava Tree
Choosing a pot
Guava tree grows large (around 30 feet) but in pots, it can be reduced to 2-3 m. Choose a pot that is at least 3 gallon (10 inches) to provide the plant a sufficient space to grow roots. *It is best to choose a clay pot with sufficient drainage holes in the bottom.
Also Read: How to Grow Pineapple Guava
Requirements for Growing Guava Tree in a PotLocation
Guava loves the sunny and warm exposure. It is a tropical plant but very much adaptable to temperate climates with moderate winter, when grown on the ground.
If you are growing guava in a container in tropics you can choose a location that receives shade in the afternoon and at least six hours of sun daily. In colder zones, place the plant in a spot that receives full sun for healthy growth and more fruiting.
Soil
For growing guava in pots choose a quality potting mix or make your own substrate using equal parts compost, sand, and soil.
Growing guava is possible in a variety of soil types. It is one of the plants that tolerates different soil types easily. It can be grown in heavy clay-rich or very sandy soil with pH ranging from 4.5 (acidic) to 9.4 (alkaline), but a loose, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and neutral to slightly acidic in pH is optimum.
When growing guava in a pot choose a self-pollinating variety.
Temperature range
The optimum temperature for germination of guavas falls in the range of 68 to 82 F (20 to 28 C). In winters, the temperature must not fall below 27 F (-3 C) for young guava trees. Mature guava tree (at least 3 years old) can bear temperature down to 20 F (-6 C). Remember, guavas are not frost tolerant, especially young plants, so if in a climate where the temperature falls below the range given here then it is better to keep the plant indoors until the temperature rises up.
Watering
When the plant is young or forming flowers water it regularly and deeply to keep the soil slightly moist. Evenly moist soil at the time of fruiting helps in developing more juicy and sweet fruits. In winter reduce the watering. One of the most interesting facts about guava trees is that they are drought tolerant and once established they can survive only on rainfall and bear long periods of drought. Still, it better to keep the soil slightly moist.
Guava Tree CareGuava tree care is simple and easy and with a few basic information, you can grow a healthy plant.Pruning
Pruning guava is essential to keep guava tree growing in a pot in desired shape and size to develop a strong structure, healthy plant and increased fruiting.
Dry, dead, damaged or diseased branches can be pruned anytime. The crowns grow naturally and well-branched and do not need regular cutting. Best is to cut back too long, unbranched shoots and branches that are crossing each other and blocking the penetration of sun rays after the harvest or at the beginning of growing season.
Fruit Thinning
Whenever the first time your guava tree blooms to form fruits it is better to deadhead the flowers, never allowing the fruits to set (do this if your plant is weak).
Allow no more than 4 fruits per branch. Also, thin out the fruits if they are developing on a small and weak branch.
Repotting
Repot the plant in one size bigger than the previous one. Never plant a plant in a too big pot directly, albeit change the pot time to time once the plant has outgrown the current one.
Fertilizer
Guava responds well to the monthly fertilizing. When the tree is young and is not bearing fruits, fertilize your potted guava tree with 6:6:6:2 [N P K Mg] to speed up the growth of the plant.
When the tree starts to bear fruits change the composition to 8:3:9:2 [N P K Mg].
Guava tree is also susceptible to iron deficiency (symptoms includes yellowing of the leaves in between the dark green veins). It can be corrected or prevented by periodic application chelated iron.
Mulching
Do mulching with organic matter so that the plant retains moisture. Mulching also helps in insulating the root of guava tree in winter.
Pests and Diseases
Guava tree care from pests and diseases is not much required when grown in a pot. This fruit tree is very tough but you should keep an eye on common garden pests. Mealy bugs, guava scale, white flies, fruit flies and thrips can affect it.
In diseases, guava plant suffers from rust, which occurs in too warm weather and high humidity.Besides this, anthracnose and leaf spot can be a problem too, both of these occurs in wet humid weather and spread through splashed water. By proper irrigation, you can easily prevent this.
Harvesting Guavas
Most of the guava tree varieties are self-pollinating and fruit ripens year round in tropics (except summer). Guava fruits usually mature in 3 to 4 months after flowering.
In India, generally, the main crop arrives in winter and after the summer in the rainy season. Winter crop is more flavorsome and sweet.
Uses
Guava fruits taste better when picked earlier than they fully mature. Fruits are highly nutritious, rich in vitamin C and can be eaten raw, its seeds are edible too. Ripened fruits can be used to make guava ice-cream, juice, jam, chutney, sauce or desserts.
A Few Guava Tree Care TipsDo not abruptly change the location of your potted guava tree otherwise the plant may lose leaves (partially).To get a bushy plant, it is necessary to pinch the growing tip regularly.It is advisable to suspend the fertilizer during the winters. In tropics, you can continue it.
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文章
Abigal
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow star anise in this article. Star anise is a spice widely used in South East Asian cuisines, growing star anise is easy in subtropical climates. It is adorned with beautiful flowers and fruits that are star shaped.
USDA Zones— 8 – 11
Difficulty— Moderate
Other Names— Anis de Chine, Anís Estrellado, Anis Étoilé, Anis Étoilé Chinois, Aniseed Stars, Anisi Stellati Fructus, Ba Jiao Hui, Badiana, Badiane, Badiane de Chine, Bajiao, Chinese Anise, Chinese Star Anise, Eight-Horned Anise, Eight Horns and Illicium verum.
It belongs to the family of Illiciaceae, dicotyledonous angiosperm species. It is a tropical evergreen tree, tall between 5-10 m. Star anise has large glossy green foliage, its white flowers are beautiful and of great decorative value. Star anise fruit has eight carpels that together form the star-shaped fruit (hence called “Star anise”).
Propagation
Star anise is propagated by seeds or cuttings. How to grow star anise from seed: Seeds are propagated best when temperature range around 65 – 70 F (18 – 20 C). You can sow seeds in pots and or directly outside.
Water the seeds frequently to keep the soil moist and make sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom to drain excess water.
Growing Condition
Star anise is native to Vietnam and China and grows in warm subtropical climate. It is a frost tender perennial. Star anise only grows in areas where the temperature does not fall below 15 F (-10 C) . If you live in a cooler area below USDA Zone 9, plant star anise in a container so that you can keep it in a greenhouse or indoors in winter.
Requirements for Growing Star AnisePosition
Star anise requires dappled shade, partial sun but if you’re growing star anise in a much cooler climate, plant it in a warm and sunny location. Choose location in a way that it is not exposed to cold and dry winds.
Soil
Provide soil that is humus and compost rich. Soil texture should be loamy and well drained. Slightly acidic to neutral soil is optimal.
Watering
For growing star anise, do regular watering and keep the soil slightly moist but reduce the watering in winter.
Star Anise CareFertilizer
Spread a 3-inch layer of compost or aged manure on the ground surrounding the tree in the spring. This is the only fertilizer it requires.
If soil is poor, apply slow release fertilizer all purpose fertilizer in the spring.
Pruning
When the plant is young pinch and prune it if you want to make it bushier. There are no special pruning requirements, however, you can always prune off dead, diseased and weak branches.
Harvest
Star anise tree takes at least 6 years to fruit if grown from seeds. These fruits (wrongly called seeds) are picked unripe while they are still green, later on these fruits are sun dried until their color change to reddish-brown, seeds can be removed once the fruits are ready to be stored.
Pests and Diseases
There are not any specific pest or disease that bothers it. Star anise itself has anti bacterial and pest repellent properties.
Uses
Star Anise is widely used in Asian cuisines to flavor dishes especially meat and curries, it is also used in desserts and beverages. Together with fennel seeds, cloves, cinnamon and pepper it is considered as one of the “Five Chinese Spice”, used for its strong taste and spicy flavor. It is an essential part of Chinese cuisines and also used in variety of Indian recipes. It’s addition to other popular Indian spices makes a special spicy ingredient, which is called “Garam masala”.
Warnings
While growing star anise, don’t confuse it with Japanese star anise (Illicium anisatum) or “Shikimi“, which is a poisonous plant and native to Japan. Its seeds or fruits are somewhat similar to those of star anise and are only slightly smaller and looks like cardamom, having a more rounded shape and have a small hook.
USDA Zones— 8 – 11
Difficulty— Moderate
Other Names— Anis de Chine, Anís Estrellado, Anis Étoilé, Anis Étoilé Chinois, Aniseed Stars, Anisi Stellati Fructus, Ba Jiao Hui, Badiana, Badiane, Badiane de Chine, Bajiao, Chinese Anise, Chinese Star Anise, Eight-Horned Anise, Eight Horns and Illicium verum.
It belongs to the family of Illiciaceae, dicotyledonous angiosperm species. It is a tropical evergreen tree, tall between 5-10 m. Star anise has large glossy green foliage, its white flowers are beautiful and of great decorative value. Star anise fruit has eight carpels that together form the star-shaped fruit (hence called “Star anise”).
Propagation
Star anise is propagated by seeds or cuttings. How to grow star anise from seed: Seeds are propagated best when temperature range around 65 – 70 F (18 – 20 C). You can sow seeds in pots and or directly outside.
Water the seeds frequently to keep the soil moist and make sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom to drain excess water.
Growing Condition
Star anise is native to Vietnam and China and grows in warm subtropical climate. It is a frost tender perennial. Star anise only grows in areas where the temperature does not fall below 15 F (-10 C) . If you live in a cooler area below USDA Zone 9, plant star anise in a container so that you can keep it in a greenhouse or indoors in winter.
Requirements for Growing Star AnisePosition
Star anise requires dappled shade, partial sun but if you’re growing star anise in a much cooler climate, plant it in a warm and sunny location. Choose location in a way that it is not exposed to cold and dry winds.
Soil
Provide soil that is humus and compost rich. Soil texture should be loamy and well drained. Slightly acidic to neutral soil is optimal.
Watering
For growing star anise, do regular watering and keep the soil slightly moist but reduce the watering in winter.
Star Anise CareFertilizer
Spread a 3-inch layer of compost or aged manure on the ground surrounding the tree in the spring. This is the only fertilizer it requires.
If soil is poor, apply slow release fertilizer all purpose fertilizer in the spring.
Pruning
When the plant is young pinch and prune it if you want to make it bushier. There are no special pruning requirements, however, you can always prune off dead, diseased and weak branches.
Harvest
Star anise tree takes at least 6 years to fruit if grown from seeds. These fruits (wrongly called seeds) are picked unripe while they are still green, later on these fruits are sun dried until their color change to reddish-brown, seeds can be removed once the fruits are ready to be stored.
Pests and Diseases
There are not any specific pest or disease that bothers it. Star anise itself has anti bacterial and pest repellent properties.
Uses
Star Anise is widely used in Asian cuisines to flavor dishes especially meat and curries, it is also used in desserts and beverages. Together with fennel seeds, cloves, cinnamon and pepper it is considered as one of the “Five Chinese Spice”, used for its strong taste and spicy flavor. It is an essential part of Chinese cuisines and also used in variety of Indian recipes. It’s addition to other popular Indian spices makes a special spicy ingredient, which is called “Garam masala”.
Warnings
While growing star anise, don’t confuse it with Japanese star anise (Illicium anisatum) or “Shikimi“, which is a poisonous plant and native to Japan. Its seeds or fruits are somewhat similar to those of star anise and are only slightly smaller and looks like cardamom, having a more rounded shape and have a small hook.
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文章
小马奥
2017年02月22日
Not only the #vegetables but #fruits can be grown in pots too. Here are 14 best fruits to #grow in pots.
Buy a disease free potted plant from a reputed nursery or online and start in a small to medium sized pot (3-5 gallons) and then repot the plant gradually into the bigger ones. A 20-25 gallon size pot is an ideal one for a fruit tree in the container.
Best Fruits To Grow In Pots1. Lemon
USDA Zones— 8-11, *can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Lemon trees have adapted themselves for container gardening. However, it is a tropical fruit but gardeners in cool temperate regions are also successfully growing this tangy and sour fruit in containers. Almost all the varieties are suitable but there are some that grows best in specific conditions. Read the information given in this article to grow your own lemon tree.
2. Strawberries
Strawberries are without a doubt one of the best fruits to grow in pots. The best about growing strawberries in containers is they are easy to grow, don’t require large pots or space and you can grow on your small urban balcony. You can also try to grow strawberries in tropics in winters. Check out our guide on growing strawberries here.
3. Apple
Dwarf apple trees are very suitable for growing in pots, you can even keep on a balcony or small terrace. When growing an apple tree in such a small space it would be better if you choose a self-fertile variety so that you don’t need to grow more than one plant. All the other requirements for growing apple tree in a pot is available here.
4. Pomegranate
*can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Pomegranate is one of the juiciest and healthiest fruits and perhaps the easiest to grow in pots because it has shallow root system when compared to other large fruit trees. If you’ve grown citrus in pot, growing pomegranates in containers can not be difficult for you too. Moreover, pomegranate is more cold hardy and easy to grow. Learn how to grow it in pot in this article.
5. Fig
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As figs are most suitable for warm temperate regions (USDA Zones 8-10) it is best to grow a fig tree in a pot if you live in a climate where winters are harsh or you don’t have enough space. Choose an appropriate variety to grow in a pot and provide plenty of sun to your plant. Regular pruning and fertilization are necessary.
6. Nectarines and Peaches
Both the nectarines and peaches are available in dwarf varieties. Most of these dwarf varieties don’t exceed the height of 6-8 feet and are self-fertile. Some dwarf peach varieties are “Golden Gem”, “El Dorado”, “Garden Gold” and “Southern Sweet”. Dwarf nectarine varieties you can grow in pots are “Nectarcrest”, “Fantasia”.
7. Cherry
Bush cherry cultivars are suitable for container gardening. Cherries prefer a mild climate and a little water as it dislikes wet feet. However, drought and high temperatures could damage the plant as well, but it survives well in the cold. The cherry tree favors a soil that is well drained and composed of plenty of organic matter.
8. Guava
*can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Guava tree will delight you with its sweetly scented flowers, delicious fruits, and beautiful tropical appearance. Guava loves the sunny and warm exposure. It is a tropical plant but very much adaptable to temperate climates with moderate winter. Learn how you can grow guava tree in pot here.
9. Watermelon
Watermelons are easy to grow in pots, all they need is a good support and well-drained potting soil. Growing watermelon is similar to cucumbers, you can find out all the information in our article.
10. Banana
Growing banana in a pot is easy and its lush green appearance can give any place a tropical look and feel. Banana trees grow in tropical and subtropical parts of the world and therefore they love full sun, heat and humidity. However, there are cultivars available that are mildly cold hardy and suitable for warm temperate zones. Find out how to grow it in a pot here.
11. Pineapple
Pineapple plants are small and compact and never grow more than 3-6 feet tall. Also, the plant has shallow roots when compared to other fruit bearing plants or trees that’s why it is possible to grow them in pots. However, pineapples require consistently warm and humid climate to thrive but you can also grow them as a houseplant in temperates, providing several hours of direct sunlight daily.
12. Raspberries
Raspberries are bit tricky and unruly to grow in containers but still everbearing varieties like “Heritage”, “Raspberry Shortcake” and “Fall Gold” are a good choice. All these varieties are self-fertile and easy to grow in pots. Here’s a useful article on growing raspberry in containers.
13. Blueberries
Growing blueberries in pots is a good idea if the soil in your garden is not acidic. Providing a potting mix for Azaleas and camellias or other acid loving plants and a large pot is essential so that your blueberry plant will grow easily and provide fruit for years.
14. Oranges and Citruses
All the oranges and citruses can be grown in pots as they are rather large shrubs or small trees. If you live in a climate where winters are mild these fruits are really easy to grow, however, you can still grow an orange tree in a cold climate with care in winter. In pots, you can grow calamondin, buddha’s hand citron, clementines orange etc.
Buy a disease free potted plant from a reputed nursery or online and start in a small to medium sized pot (3-5 gallons) and then repot the plant gradually into the bigger ones. A 20-25 gallon size pot is an ideal one for a fruit tree in the container.
Best Fruits To Grow In Pots1. Lemon
USDA Zones— 8-11, *can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Lemon trees have adapted themselves for container gardening. However, it is a tropical fruit but gardeners in cool temperate regions are also successfully growing this tangy and sour fruit in containers. Almost all the varieties are suitable but there are some that grows best in specific conditions. Read the information given in this article to grow your own lemon tree.
2. Strawberries
Strawberries are without a doubt one of the best fruits to grow in pots. The best about growing strawberries in containers is they are easy to grow, don’t require large pots or space and you can grow on your small urban balcony. You can also try to grow strawberries in tropics in winters. Check out our guide on growing strawberries here.
3. Apple
Dwarf apple trees are very suitable for growing in pots, you can even keep on a balcony or small terrace. When growing an apple tree in such a small space it would be better if you choose a self-fertile variety so that you don’t need to grow more than one plant. All the other requirements for growing apple tree in a pot is available here.
4. Pomegranate
*can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Pomegranate is one of the juiciest and healthiest fruits and perhaps the easiest to grow in pots because it has shallow root system when compared to other large fruit trees. If you’ve grown citrus in pot, growing pomegranates in containers can not be difficult for you too. Moreover, pomegranate is more cold hardy and easy to grow. Learn how to grow it in pot in this article.
5. Fig
0
As figs are most suitable for warm temperate regions (USDA Zones 8-10) it is best to grow a fig tree in a pot if you live in a climate where winters are harsh or you don’t have enough space. Choose an appropriate variety to grow in a pot and provide plenty of sun to your plant. Regular pruning and fertilization are necessary.
6. Nectarines and Peaches
Both the nectarines and peaches are available in dwarf varieties. Most of these dwarf varieties don’t exceed the height of 6-8 feet and are self-fertile. Some dwarf peach varieties are “Golden Gem”, “El Dorado”, “Garden Gold” and “Southern Sweet”. Dwarf nectarine varieties you can grow in pots are “Nectarcrest”, “Fantasia”.
7. Cherry
Bush cherry cultivars are suitable for container gardening. Cherries prefer a mild climate and a little water as it dislikes wet feet. However, drought and high temperatures could damage the plant as well, but it survives well in the cold. The cherry tree favors a soil that is well drained and composed of plenty of organic matter.
8. Guava
*can be grown in cooler zones with care in winter
Guava tree will delight you with its sweetly scented flowers, delicious fruits, and beautiful tropical appearance. Guava loves the sunny and warm exposure. It is a tropical plant but very much adaptable to temperate climates with moderate winter. Learn how you can grow guava tree in pot here.
9. Watermelon
Watermelons are easy to grow in pots, all they need is a good support and well-drained potting soil. Growing watermelon is similar to cucumbers, you can find out all the information in our article.
10. Banana
Growing banana in a pot is easy and its lush green appearance can give any place a tropical look and feel. Banana trees grow in tropical and subtropical parts of the world and therefore they love full sun, heat and humidity. However, there are cultivars available that are mildly cold hardy and suitable for warm temperate zones. Find out how to grow it in a pot here.
11. Pineapple
Pineapple plants are small and compact and never grow more than 3-6 feet tall. Also, the plant has shallow roots when compared to other fruit bearing plants or trees that’s why it is possible to grow them in pots. However, pineapples require consistently warm and humid climate to thrive but you can also grow them as a houseplant in temperates, providing several hours of direct sunlight daily.
12. Raspberries
Raspberries are bit tricky and unruly to grow in containers but still everbearing varieties like “Heritage”, “Raspberry Shortcake” and “Fall Gold” are a good choice. All these varieties are self-fertile and easy to grow in pots. Here’s a useful article on growing raspberry in containers.
13. Blueberries
Growing blueberries in pots is a good idea if the soil in your garden is not acidic. Providing a potting mix for Azaleas and camellias or other acid loving plants and a large pot is essential so that your blueberry plant will grow easily and provide fruit for years.
14. Oranges and Citruses
All the oranges and citruses can be grown in pots as they are rather large shrubs or small trees. If you live in a climate where winters are mild these fruits are really easy to grow, however, you can still grow an orange tree in a cold climate with care in winter. In pots, you can grow calamondin, buddha’s hand citron, clementines orange etc.
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0
文章
Erin
2016年12月19日
The first question that may come up in your mind is– Will banana tree in a pot can bear fruits?
And the answer is yes. It is possible, a banana tree bears fruits in pot prolifically. It may take up to 3 to 5 years to fruit if grown from seeds.<img src="1000060283_24273_1482125694.jpg">Growing Banana Trees in Pots--varieties
First of all, choose dwarf varieties of banana trees. They can grow anywhere between 2 to 4 meters and are suitable to grow in containers.
Dwarf Red
Dwarf Cavendish
Dwarf Brazilian
Dwarf Jamaican
Rajapuri
Williams Hybrid
Gran Nain
Dwarf ‘Lady Finger’
Requirements for Growing Banana Trees in Pots
Sun
Banana trees grow in tropical and subtropical parts of the world and therefore they love full sun, heat and humidity. If you’re growing banana tree you should keep it in a spot that receives the sun most of the day but preferably sheltered from the wind.
Soil
Growing Banana tree requires well-draining soil, sandy soil that is rich in organic matters and compost. Buy a good quality potting mix for your banana tree. If you are making it at home make sure to mix sand, perlite, and compost or manure.
Banana needs slightly acidic to neutral soil to produce those potassium rich nutritious bananas. The soil pH should be around 6 – 7. If your soil is alkaline mix sulfur to decrease the pH.
Watering
Banana loves moisture. Water it regularly and deeply but care not to overwater. In summer, water it every day. It may need water even two times a day in hot weather or when it is root bound. Soil for growing banana plants should be kept uniformly moist. Reduce watering in winter.
Banana Plant in Pot Care , Pests and diseases
Humidity
Banana plant prefers humidity levels above 50%. To increase humidity level around the plant, mist the plant and place it on a layer of pebbles in a tray filled with water.
Overwintering Banana Tree
Banana plants stop growing when the temperature drops below 50 ° Fahrenheit.
Before the onset of winter, do heavy mulching and prune the leaves.
Put it in a warm, bright room till the spring.
Fertilizer
Banana is a fast growing plant and it requires heavy feeding to grow at its full strength. Fertilize young plant when it establishes well with nitrogen-rich fertilizer to help it grow faster. Once your banana tree in pot becomes mature enough to produce fruit, fertilize it with 15:5:30 fertilizer regularly.
Pests and diseases
Bananas are quite resistant to diseases, still when you see the leaves turning brown and drying at the edges it means you’re overwatering and if the leaves turn yellow, banana plant is having a lack of nutrients.
Some pests that might attack banana plant are banana aphids, banana weevil, and coconut scale. These pests can easily be repelled using organic pesticides.
And the answer is yes. It is possible, a banana tree bears fruits in pot prolifically. It may take up to 3 to 5 years to fruit if grown from seeds.<img src="1000060283_24273_1482125694.jpg">Growing Banana Trees in Pots--varieties
First of all, choose dwarf varieties of banana trees. They can grow anywhere between 2 to 4 meters and are suitable to grow in containers.
Dwarf Red
Dwarf Cavendish
Dwarf Brazilian
Dwarf Jamaican
Rajapuri
Williams Hybrid
Gran Nain
Dwarf ‘Lady Finger’
Requirements for Growing Banana Trees in Pots
Sun
Banana trees grow in tropical and subtropical parts of the world and therefore they love full sun, heat and humidity. If you’re growing banana tree you should keep it in a spot that receives the sun most of the day but preferably sheltered from the wind.
Soil
Growing Banana tree requires well-draining soil, sandy soil that is rich in organic matters and compost. Buy a good quality potting mix for your banana tree. If you are making it at home make sure to mix sand, perlite, and compost or manure.
Banana needs slightly acidic to neutral soil to produce those potassium rich nutritious bananas. The soil pH should be around 6 – 7. If your soil is alkaline mix sulfur to decrease the pH.
Watering
Banana loves moisture. Water it regularly and deeply but care not to overwater. In summer, water it every day. It may need water even two times a day in hot weather or when it is root bound. Soil for growing banana plants should be kept uniformly moist. Reduce watering in winter.
Banana Plant in Pot Care , Pests and diseases
Humidity
Banana plant prefers humidity levels above 50%. To increase humidity level around the plant, mist the plant and place it on a layer of pebbles in a tray filled with water.
Overwintering Banana Tree
Banana plants stop growing when the temperature drops below 50 ° Fahrenheit.
Before the onset of winter, do heavy mulching and prune the leaves.
Put it in a warm, bright room till the spring.
Fertilizer
Banana is a fast growing plant and it requires heavy feeding to grow at its full strength. Fertilize young plant when it establishes well with nitrogen-rich fertilizer to help it grow faster. Once your banana tree in pot becomes mature enough to produce fruit, fertilize it with 15:5:30 fertilizer regularly.
Pests and diseases
Bananas are quite resistant to diseases, still when you see the leaves turning brown and drying at the edges it means you’re overwatering and if the leaves turn yellow, banana plant is having a lack of nutrients.
Some pests that might attack banana plant are banana aphids, banana weevil, and coconut scale. These pests can easily be repelled using organic pesticides.
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1
文章
Erin
2016年12月05日
The best strawberries you’ll ever taste will come from a garden. As the first fruits to ripen in spring, strawberries are nutritious assets to any garden. The sturdy little plants prosper when planted in properly prepared beds or rows, or you can put them to work as edible edgings or let them sprawl over the top of a wall. Strawberries are happy to grow in strawberry jars and hanging baskets, too.<img src="1000053917_24273_1480928506.jpg">Life Cycle
Success with strawberries asks that you understand their life cycle. Like most hardy perennials, strawberries die back in winter and start growing vigorously as the soil warms in spring. After bearing fruit (as early as February in Florida, or June farther north), many types of strawberries produce numerous runners with baby plants at the tips. Those runners often root themselves nearby yet remain attached to the mother plant. These types of strawberries produce more fruit if you clip off most of the runners, allowing each plant to produce no more than 3 daughter plants each summer. (Some varieties, such as Loran, produce few to no runners.)
Exhausted from producing fruit and offspring, strawberries typically take a second rest period during summer’s second half. When kept weeded and lightly watered, most parent plants – and their offspring – perk up and grow again for a while in the fall. Even though it may look like little is going on with strawberries in September, the plants are busy during the fall months developing the latent buds that will grow into next spring’s flowers.
From zone 6 northward, strawberries are best planted in spring so they will be well-rooted by the following winter. Containers can be replanted in late summer and moved to a cool, protected place such as an unheated garage during the coldest months.
From zone 7 southward, strawberries can be planted in fall. (In Florida and other warm, humid coastal areas, many are grown as cool weather annuals.) Once a planting is established, simply lift your healthiest plants each September, and replant them in a freshly renovated site.
Growing strawberries doesn’t have to entail so much work, though. In all areas, strawberries can be allowed to grow into a vibrant green ground cover that requires little maintenance. The plants won’t bear as heavily as more intensively managed plants, but they will still produce delicious berries, year after year.<img src="1000053918_24273_1480928506.jpg">Soil, Planting, and Care
Strawberries need at least 8 hours of full sun each day, and they prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8. If soils in your area are naturally alkaline, it is best to grow strawberries in half-barrels or other large containers filled with potting soil. Strawberries may also sulk in heavy clay, which should be generously amended with composted leaves, fully rotted sawdust, or another bulky type of organic matter before planting strawberries. After mixing in 4 inches or more of compost, rake clay soil into raised mounds to further improve drainage. If your soil is sandy, simply cultivate to remove weeds, and mix in a 1-inch layer of rich compost or rotted manure.
Many varieties of strawberries eagerly produce offspring, so it is best to space them 18 inches apart. There are a few varieties, though (such as Loran), that produce few if any runners; these can be spaced 6 inches apart. (Check the tag for exact details on spacing.) Be sure to set the plants so that their roots are well covered with soil but the central growing bud, or crown, is exposed to light and fresh air. This is very important: If you bury the crown, the plant could easily rot. Water them well. Any type of mulch – from black plastic to pine straw to shredded leaves – will keep the soil moist and the plants clean. Fertilize with Bonnie Herb, Vegetable & Flower Plant Food for excellent results. Look for your plants to begin blooming in early spring, and the flowers must be visited by bees and other pollinating insects before they can set fruit. In warm, sunny weather, berries ripen about 30 days after blossoms are fertilized.<img src="1000053919_24273_1480928507.jpg">Troubleshooting
Slugs often chew holes in strawberries just as they begin to ripen. Organic mulches such as straw encourage slugs, so where slugs are a problem, a plastic mulch helps.
In summer, several fungal diseases cause dark spots to form on leaves. Clipping or mowing strawberry foliage and raking it away in summer can interrupt the life cycles of some strawberry pests and diseases. By far the worst pests of strawberries are birds. To keep robins, brown thrashers, and other fruit-eaters from stealing your berries, cover the plants with lightweight bird netting when the berries begin to ripen.
Sometimes your fruit may be small because of heat and drought. Once you start watering and the weather improves, the new fruit should be of normal size.
Harvest and Storage
Homegrown strawberries are sweeter and more tender than store-bought strawberries.Pick strawberries in the morning, when the fruits are cool, and immediately put them in the refrigerator. Wait until just before you eat or cook them to rinse the berries thoroughly with cool water. Extra strawberries can be frozen, dried, or made into jam or preserves.
Success with strawberries asks that you understand their life cycle. Like most hardy perennials, strawberries die back in winter and start growing vigorously as the soil warms in spring. After bearing fruit (as early as February in Florida, or June farther north), many types of strawberries produce numerous runners with baby plants at the tips. Those runners often root themselves nearby yet remain attached to the mother plant. These types of strawberries produce more fruit if you clip off most of the runners, allowing each plant to produce no more than 3 daughter plants each summer. (Some varieties, such as Loran, produce few to no runners.)
Exhausted from producing fruit and offspring, strawberries typically take a second rest period during summer’s second half. When kept weeded and lightly watered, most parent plants – and their offspring – perk up and grow again for a while in the fall. Even though it may look like little is going on with strawberries in September, the plants are busy during the fall months developing the latent buds that will grow into next spring’s flowers.
From zone 6 northward, strawberries are best planted in spring so they will be well-rooted by the following winter. Containers can be replanted in late summer and moved to a cool, protected place such as an unheated garage during the coldest months.
From zone 7 southward, strawberries can be planted in fall. (In Florida and other warm, humid coastal areas, many are grown as cool weather annuals.) Once a planting is established, simply lift your healthiest plants each September, and replant them in a freshly renovated site.
Growing strawberries doesn’t have to entail so much work, though. In all areas, strawberries can be allowed to grow into a vibrant green ground cover that requires little maintenance. The plants won’t bear as heavily as more intensively managed plants, but they will still produce delicious berries, year after year.<img src="1000053918_24273_1480928506.jpg">Soil, Planting, and Care
Strawberries need at least 8 hours of full sun each day, and they prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8. If soils in your area are naturally alkaline, it is best to grow strawberries in half-barrels or other large containers filled with potting soil. Strawberries may also sulk in heavy clay, which should be generously amended with composted leaves, fully rotted sawdust, or another bulky type of organic matter before planting strawberries. After mixing in 4 inches or more of compost, rake clay soil into raised mounds to further improve drainage. If your soil is sandy, simply cultivate to remove weeds, and mix in a 1-inch layer of rich compost or rotted manure.
Many varieties of strawberries eagerly produce offspring, so it is best to space them 18 inches apart. There are a few varieties, though (such as Loran), that produce few if any runners; these can be spaced 6 inches apart. (Check the tag for exact details on spacing.) Be sure to set the plants so that their roots are well covered with soil but the central growing bud, or crown, is exposed to light and fresh air. This is very important: If you bury the crown, the plant could easily rot. Water them well. Any type of mulch – from black plastic to pine straw to shredded leaves – will keep the soil moist and the plants clean. Fertilize with Bonnie Herb, Vegetable & Flower Plant Food for excellent results. Look for your plants to begin blooming in early spring, and the flowers must be visited by bees and other pollinating insects before they can set fruit. In warm, sunny weather, berries ripen about 30 days after blossoms are fertilized.<img src="1000053919_24273_1480928507.jpg">Troubleshooting
Slugs often chew holes in strawberries just as they begin to ripen. Organic mulches such as straw encourage slugs, so where slugs are a problem, a plastic mulch helps.
In summer, several fungal diseases cause dark spots to form on leaves. Clipping or mowing strawberry foliage and raking it away in summer can interrupt the life cycles of some strawberry pests and diseases. By far the worst pests of strawberries are birds. To keep robins, brown thrashers, and other fruit-eaters from stealing your berries, cover the plants with lightweight bird netting when the berries begin to ripen.
Sometimes your fruit may be small because of heat and drought. Once you start watering and the weather improves, the new fruit should be of normal size.
Harvest and Storage
Homegrown strawberries are sweeter and more tender than store-bought strawberries.Pick strawberries in the morning, when the fruits are cool, and immediately put them in the refrigerator. Wait until just before you eat or cook them to rinse the berries thoroughly with cool water. Extra strawberries can be frozen, dried, or made into jam or preserves.
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石头0717：表示英语没学好
