文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
The definition of a vegetable is any edible portion of a plant that does not include a sweet fruit or seed. Vegetables typically consist of leafy, root and stem sections of plants; however, some plants labeled as vegetables are fruits by botanical definition. These mislabeled fruits are plants that contain seeds, but for culinary purposes, are vegetables because the plants lack sweetness.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月17日
Growing lettuce (Lactuca sativa) in your garden means you can have the freshest leaves for perfectly crisp salads. To enjoy the best-tasting fruits of your labors, it all comes down to picking the lettuce leaves at the right time and storing the lettuce correctly after you've harvested it.
Check Your Calendar
How long it is since you sowed the seeds provides a quick way to estimate when lettuce should be ready for harvesting.
A crisphead lettuce variety, which grows into a hard, tight head of leaves, is ready for harvesting approximately 75 days after planting.
As their name implies, loose-leaf lettuces don't form a head and are ready in as little as 45 days.
Butterhead varieties, which soft heads of loose leaves, are ready in 55 to 75 days.
Romaine varieties grow into tall, cylindrical heads of folded leaves and take approximately 70 days to mature.
Pick It Early
Pick lettuce in the early morning before the heat of the day causes the lettuce leaves to lose their crispness. Lettuce is fresher and crisper at this time and also tastes sweeter.
Test for Readiness
For loose-leaf lettuce varieties, the outer leaves can be harvested on a continuous basis when the plant reaches its harvest-ready date. As you pick the outer leaves, the plant continues to grow from the middle. These leaves should be full sized and tender. Woody leaves were left on the plant too long and will taste bitter.
Butterhead lettuce and other head varieties are ready for harvesting when the inner leaves have formed a head and the plants approach their variety-specific maturity date. To test if the head is ready, gently push down with the back of your hand. It should feel firm and crisp.
Harvest Methods
Harvest methods differ depending on the type of lettuce you're picking. For loose-leaf varieties, use your fingers to pinch off individual lettuce leaves at the base of the plant. For lettuce heads, use a sharp knife or pruning shears and cut off the entire head at its base, approximately 1 inch above soil level. Use cutting tools that have been wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol. This helps prevent the spread of disease.
Cleaning and Storing Lettuce
Refrigerate lettuce leaves immediately after picking, as unrefrigerated leaves can wilt within 15 minutes of harvesting. Place the lettuce in a loose plastic bag, unwashed. Washed lettuce deteriorates quickly, but dry, unwashed lettuce can last for up to 14 days in your fridge's crisper drawer. When you're ready to use the lettuce, rinse each leaf under cold running water to get rid of dirt and any other debris.
Check Your Calendar
How long it is since you sowed the seeds provides a quick way to estimate when lettuce should be ready for harvesting.
A crisphead lettuce variety, which grows into a hard, tight head of leaves, is ready for harvesting approximately 75 days after planting.
As their name implies, loose-leaf lettuces don't form a head and are ready in as little as 45 days.
Butterhead varieties, which soft heads of loose leaves, are ready in 55 to 75 days.
Romaine varieties grow into tall, cylindrical heads of folded leaves and take approximately 70 days to mature.
Pick It Early
Pick lettuce in the early morning before the heat of the day causes the lettuce leaves to lose their crispness. Lettuce is fresher and crisper at this time and also tastes sweeter.
Test for Readiness
For loose-leaf lettuce varieties, the outer leaves can be harvested on a continuous basis when the plant reaches its harvest-ready date. As you pick the outer leaves, the plant continues to grow from the middle. These leaves should be full sized and tender. Woody leaves were left on the plant too long and will taste bitter.
Butterhead lettuce and other head varieties are ready for harvesting when the inner leaves have formed a head and the plants approach their variety-specific maturity date. To test if the head is ready, gently push down with the back of your hand. It should feel firm and crisp.
Harvest Methods
Harvest methods differ depending on the type of lettuce you're picking. For loose-leaf varieties, use your fingers to pinch off individual lettuce leaves at the base of the plant. For lettuce heads, use a sharp knife or pruning shears and cut off the entire head at its base, approximately 1 inch above soil level. Use cutting tools that have been wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol. This helps prevent the spread of disease.
Cleaning and Storing Lettuce
Refrigerate lettuce leaves immediately after picking, as unrefrigerated leaves can wilt within 15 minutes of harvesting. Place the lettuce in a loose plastic bag, unwashed. Washed lettuce deteriorates quickly, but dry, unwashed lettuce can last for up to 14 days in your fridge's crisper drawer. When you're ready to use the lettuce, rinse each leaf under cold running water to get rid of dirt and any other debris.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月02日
Description: This woody shrub forms canes that are initially erect, but often bend downward to re-root in the ground. These canes actively grow and form leaves during the first year, and develop fruits in the form of drupes during the second year, afterwhich they die down. The canes are about 3-6' tall; they are green where there is new growth at the tips, otherwise they are brown or reddish brown with stout prickles that are straight or somewhat curved. The alternate leaves are usually trifoliate or palmately compound; they have long petioles. The leaflets are up to 4" long and 3" across; they are up to twice as long as wide. A typical leaflet is usually ovate with coarse, doubly serrate margins; it may have a few scattered white hairs on the upper surface, while the lower surface is light green and pubescent.
The canes develop racemes with about 12 white flowers; these racemes are much longer than they are wide. There are conspicuous glandular-tipped hairs on the peduncles and pedicels of the inflorescence. A flower has 5 white petals and 5 green sepals with pointed tips; this flower is about ¾-1" across. The petals are longer than the sepals, rather rounded, and often wrinkly. In the center of each flower, are numerous stamens with yellow anthers surrounding a green reproductive structure with a prickly appearance. The flowers bloom during late spring or early summer for a month; there is little or no floral fragrance. The drupes develop later in the summer; they are about ¾" long and 1/3" across, although their size varies with moisture levels. The drupes are initially white or green, but eventually turn red, finally becoming almost black. They are seedy and have a sweet flavor when fully ripened. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant often forms loose colonies vegetatively.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, and mesic conditions; some drought is tolerated, although this can reduce the size of the drupes. Growth is best in rich fertile soil; a clay-loam or rocky soil is also acceptable. This plant is easy to grow from transplants or cuttings of young growth. It can become aggressive and be difficult to eliminate; the use of herbicides may be required on some occasions.
Range & Habitat: The native Common Blackberry occurs in most counties of Illinois; it is common in most areas of central and northern Illinois, and somewhat less common in southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to slightly dry prairie edges along woodlands, thickets, open woodlands, savannas, woodland meadows, limestone glades, fence rows, areas along roadsides and railroads, and abandoned pastures. This plant favors disturbed, burned-over areas in and around woodlands; it is one of the shrubby invaders of prairies.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract many kinds of insects, especially long-tongued and short-tongued bees. This includes honeybees, bumblebees, Little Carpenter bees, Nomadine Cuckoo bees, Mason bees, Green Metallic bees and other Halictid bees, and Andrenid bees. Other visitors of the flowers include wasps, flies, small to medium-sized butterflies, skippers, and beetles. Many of the flies and beetles feed on pollen and are not very effective at pollination. The caterpillars of the butterfly Satyrium liparops strigosum (Striped Hairstreak) and several species of moths feed on the Common Blackberry (see Moth Table). Also, various upland gamebirds, songbirds, and mammals feed on the fruit, stems, or foliage of this plant (see Wildlife Table). Among the upland gamebirds, the Greater Prairie Chicken, Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Ring-Necked Pheasant have been observed eating the drupes of blackberries. These various animals help to distribute the seeds far and wide. The Common Blackberry provides some shelter and shrubby protection to various ground-nesting birds and small mammals, such as the Cottontail Rabbit. In general, the ecological value of blackberries is very high.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Occasionally, blackberries (Rubus spp.) are found along the edges of prairies. It can be difficult to tell the different species apart. This is one of the more common blackberries in Illinois. The fruits of Common Blackberry tend to be a bit larger and more elongated than those of other blackberries, and they usually have an excellent flavor. This blackberry is distinguished from other blackberries by the numerous glandular hairs on the peduncles and pedicels of its elongated racemes of flowers. Furthermore, its mature leaflets are usually no more than twice as long as they are wide. These two characteristics distinguish the Common Blackberry from other Rubus spp. in Illinois.
The canes develop racemes with about 12 white flowers; these racemes are much longer than they are wide. There are conspicuous glandular-tipped hairs on the peduncles and pedicels of the inflorescence. A flower has 5 white petals and 5 green sepals with pointed tips; this flower is about ¾-1" across. The petals are longer than the sepals, rather rounded, and often wrinkly. In the center of each flower, are numerous stamens with yellow anthers surrounding a green reproductive structure with a prickly appearance. The flowers bloom during late spring or early summer for a month; there is little or no floral fragrance. The drupes develop later in the summer; they are about ¾" long and 1/3" across, although their size varies with moisture levels. The drupes are initially white or green, but eventually turn red, finally becoming almost black. They are seedy and have a sweet flavor when fully ripened. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant often forms loose colonies vegetatively.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, and mesic conditions; some drought is tolerated, although this can reduce the size of the drupes. Growth is best in rich fertile soil; a clay-loam or rocky soil is also acceptable. This plant is easy to grow from transplants or cuttings of young growth. It can become aggressive and be difficult to eliminate; the use of herbicides may be required on some occasions.
Range & Habitat: The native Common Blackberry occurs in most counties of Illinois; it is common in most areas of central and northern Illinois, and somewhat less common in southern Illinois (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to slightly dry prairie edges along woodlands, thickets, open woodlands, savannas, woodland meadows, limestone glades, fence rows, areas along roadsides and railroads, and abandoned pastures. This plant favors disturbed, burned-over areas in and around woodlands; it is one of the shrubby invaders of prairies.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract many kinds of insects, especially long-tongued and short-tongued bees. This includes honeybees, bumblebees, Little Carpenter bees, Nomadine Cuckoo bees, Mason bees, Green Metallic bees and other Halictid bees, and Andrenid bees. Other visitors of the flowers include wasps, flies, small to medium-sized butterflies, skippers, and beetles. Many of the flies and beetles feed on pollen and are not very effective at pollination. The caterpillars of the butterfly Satyrium liparops strigosum (Striped Hairstreak) and several species of moths feed on the Common Blackberry (see Moth Table). Also, various upland gamebirds, songbirds, and mammals feed on the fruit, stems, or foliage of this plant (see Wildlife Table). Among the upland gamebirds, the Greater Prairie Chicken, Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Ring-Necked Pheasant have been observed eating the drupes of blackberries. These various animals help to distribute the seeds far and wide. The Common Blackberry provides some shelter and shrubby protection to various ground-nesting birds and small mammals, such as the Cottontail Rabbit. In general, the ecological value of blackberries is very high.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Occasionally, blackberries (Rubus spp.) are found along the edges of prairies. It can be difficult to tell the different species apart. This is one of the more common blackberries in Illinois. The fruits of Common Blackberry tend to be a bit larger and more elongated than those of other blackberries, and they usually have an excellent flavor. This blackberry is distinguished from other blackberries by the numerous glandular hairs on the peduncles and pedicels of its elongated racemes of flowers. Furthermore, its mature leaflets are usually no more than twice as long as they are wide. These two characteristics distinguish the Common Blackberry from other Rubus spp. in Illinois.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
It is entertaining to watch a cucumber (Cucumis sativus) grow through its stages from tiny vine to full-size plant with edible fruits. As the soil temperature reaches the 70 degree Fahrenheit range, it is time to plant cucumber, one of the most popular vegetables in the Cucurbitaceae family of plants. Producing fruits used for pickling, slicing or eating fresh off the vine, cucumber is a simple vegetable to grow in a home garden.
Seed Sowing and Seedling Emergence
The seeds of vining cucumber varieties such as 'Boston Pickling' and 'Lemon Cucumber' are sown either four to five seeds per hill of soil or 2 to 3 feet apart in a straight row. Seed germination, or sprouting, occurs fairly fast. Watch for the two-leaved seedlings to emerge above the soil three to 10 days after sowing the seeds.
A seedling's first two leaves are called cotyledon and are round with smooth edges. The next leaves are true leaves with the characteristic cucumber heart-shape and sharp-edged margins.
The soil should remain moist at all times as the seedlings begin to grow. To test for moistness, put your finger in the soil. It should not be dry beyond the first finger joint. As seedlings reach 4 inches in height, remove some of them so the remaining ones are 1 ½ feet apart.
Each bush variety of cucumber requires 2 to 3 square feet of space, and the vine type can reach to 6 feet in height. Trellis systems or tomato cages can be used to support plants that are the vine type.
Plant cucumber seeds every two to three weeks until three months before your area's first average annual frost date to have a continuous harvest of cucumber fruits as summer progresses.
Flowering and Pollination
Cucumbers produce two kinds of bright, golden-yellow flowers: male and female. Male flowers emerge first but do not produce fruits and fall off after pollination is complete. Female flowers emerge within one to two weeks.
Cucumber plants are not self-pollinating; they require bees or other pollinators to carry their pollen from male flowers to female flowers. Insecticides applied at cucumbers' flower stage of growth can kill the pollinators, interfering with the process of pollination.
Fruiting and Harvest
After female cucumber flowers have been pollinated, they swell at their bases and begin to develop into fruits. Cucumber fruits usually can be harvested 50 to 70 days after the seeds were sown, depending on the variety and weather conditions.
Cucumber varieties used for pickling are ready to harvest when the fruits reach 3 to 4 inches in length. The harvest lasts seven to 10 days for each of those plants. The longer fruits of varieties used for slicing are ready for harvest when they are 7 to 8 inches long, and their harvest time may continue for as long as four to six weeks.
At peak harvest time, cucumber fruits should be picked every two days. Cucumber plants produce more fruits when the fruits are picked regularly. Fruits left on the vines become bitter and their skins tough.
A mature cucumber plant produces about 5 pounds of fruits, or about 10 fruits that are each 6 ounces. Heirloom varieties, however, produce about 2 to 3 pounds of fruits per plant.
Post-Harvest
When harvest is complete, pull the cucumber vines or bushes out of the soil, and put them into the compost bin or pile. Long vines can be cut into 1-to 2-foot lengths for speedier decomposition. Vines or bushes left on the ground to decompose may attract pests or diseases to the garden.
Seed Sowing and Seedling Emergence
The seeds of vining cucumber varieties such as 'Boston Pickling' and 'Lemon Cucumber' are sown either four to five seeds per hill of soil or 2 to 3 feet apart in a straight row. Seed germination, or sprouting, occurs fairly fast. Watch for the two-leaved seedlings to emerge above the soil three to 10 days after sowing the seeds.
A seedling's first two leaves are called cotyledon and are round with smooth edges. The next leaves are true leaves with the characteristic cucumber heart-shape and sharp-edged margins.
The soil should remain moist at all times as the seedlings begin to grow. To test for moistness, put your finger in the soil. It should not be dry beyond the first finger joint. As seedlings reach 4 inches in height, remove some of them so the remaining ones are 1 ½ feet apart.
Each bush variety of cucumber requires 2 to 3 square feet of space, and the vine type can reach to 6 feet in height. Trellis systems or tomato cages can be used to support plants that are the vine type.
Plant cucumber seeds every two to three weeks until three months before your area's first average annual frost date to have a continuous harvest of cucumber fruits as summer progresses.
Flowering and Pollination
Cucumbers produce two kinds of bright, golden-yellow flowers: male and female. Male flowers emerge first but do not produce fruits and fall off after pollination is complete. Female flowers emerge within one to two weeks.
Cucumber plants are not self-pollinating; they require bees or other pollinators to carry their pollen from male flowers to female flowers. Insecticides applied at cucumbers' flower stage of growth can kill the pollinators, interfering with the process of pollination.
Fruiting and Harvest
After female cucumber flowers have been pollinated, they swell at their bases and begin to develop into fruits. Cucumber fruits usually can be harvested 50 to 70 days after the seeds were sown, depending on the variety and weather conditions.
Cucumber varieties used for pickling are ready to harvest when the fruits reach 3 to 4 inches in length. The harvest lasts seven to 10 days for each of those plants. The longer fruits of varieties used for slicing are ready for harvest when they are 7 to 8 inches long, and their harvest time may continue for as long as four to six weeks.
At peak harvest time, cucumber fruits should be picked every two days. Cucumber plants produce more fruits when the fruits are picked regularly. Fruits left on the vines become bitter and their skins tough.
A mature cucumber plant produces about 5 pounds of fruits, or about 10 fruits that are each 6 ounces. Heirloom varieties, however, produce about 2 to 3 pounds of fruits per plant.
Post-Harvest
When harvest is complete, pull the cucumber vines or bushes out of the soil, and put them into the compost bin or pile. Long vines can be cut into 1-to 2-foot lengths for speedier decomposition. Vines or bushes left on the ground to decompose may attract pests or diseases to the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Fruit and vegetable gardens burst into bloom in spring and summer for eventual fruit harvest, but rarely consist of one specific plant variety. Gardeners plant a range of their favorite fruits and vegetables for wide, satisfying harvests. Warm-season plants like tomatoes and melons thrive together with the same temperature, sun, nutrition and water needs, but they require generous spacing for growth. Plant these crops at the same time, and with the same considerations.
Step 1
Start tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes in mid-spring when the frost lifts. All three crops need starts at 60 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and die in frost. Start seedlings to give these long-season plants head starts on their growing seasons.
Step 2
Designate planting sites. Tomatoes and melons require adequate spacing for growth and fruit production. Choose sites with bright all-day sun and air circulation, and allot at least 5 to 6 square feet for each crop. Put the tomato plot on the southern or northern side of the garden to avoid shading out the lower-lying crops.
Step 3
Amend the soil through all three plots to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Dig 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the topsoil to increase nutrition, drainage and moisture retention. Tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes are hungry, thirsty plants, and do best with rich, crumbly soil. Turn 6-24-24 or 8-32-16 fertilizer into the top 4 inches of soil throughout to encourage quick root establishment.
Step 4
Plant tomato seedlings 24 to 36 inches apart in a row. Space rows at 4 feet, and give each plant a vegetable cage for support. Plant watermelon seedlings at every 2 feet in the row, and cantaloupe seedlings at 18 to 24 inches in the row. Plant only one row of each variety of melon to minimize space usage. Each plant produces several melons.
Step 5
Give the garden 3 inches of water to settle the soil, and put the plants on a schedule of 2 inches of water every week. The plants cannot produce growth or fruit without adequate moisture. Lay 2 inches of mulch over the soil between the plantings to maintain moisture and warmth for the plants.
Step 6
Feed the plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at mid-season to encourage best blooming and fruit production.
Step 1
Start tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes in mid-spring when the frost lifts. All three crops need starts at 60 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and die in frost. Start seedlings to give these long-season plants head starts on their growing seasons.
Step 2
Designate planting sites. Tomatoes and melons require adequate spacing for growth and fruit production. Choose sites with bright all-day sun and air circulation, and allot at least 5 to 6 square feet for each crop. Put the tomato plot on the southern or northern side of the garden to avoid shading out the lower-lying crops.
Step 3
Amend the soil through all three plots to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Dig 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the topsoil to increase nutrition, drainage and moisture retention. Tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes are hungry, thirsty plants, and do best with rich, crumbly soil. Turn 6-24-24 or 8-32-16 fertilizer into the top 4 inches of soil throughout to encourage quick root establishment.
Step 4
Plant tomato seedlings 24 to 36 inches apart in a row. Space rows at 4 feet, and give each plant a vegetable cage for support. Plant watermelon seedlings at every 2 feet in the row, and cantaloupe seedlings at 18 to 24 inches in the row. Plant only one row of each variety of melon to minimize space usage. Each plant produces several melons.
Step 5
Give the garden 3 inches of water to settle the soil, and put the plants on a schedule of 2 inches of water every week. The plants cannot produce growth or fruit without adequate moisture. Lay 2 inches of mulch over the soil between the plantings to maintain moisture and warmth for the plants.
Step 6
Feed the plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at mid-season to encourage best blooming and fruit production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
The pear-shaped, light-green fruits known in the U.S. as vegetable pears and in Mexico as chayotes grow on vigorous cold-sensitive vines of the cucurbit family -- the same plant family that includes pumpkins, squash, melons and cucumbers. Known to ancient Aztecs as chayotli and to botanists as Sechium edule, chayote vines need a 150-day growing season between hard frosts, a circumstance hard to come by in the U.S. except for Southern locales. Where frost doesn't destroy the roots, an established chayote plant will resprout the following spring and again produce an immense quantity of fruit.
Step 1
Purchase several fresh chayote fruits in fall, even if they have been in cold storage and are wrapped in plastic. Unwrap them once you get home if they were encased in plastic.
Step 2
Store whole chayotes in a cool, dark place such as a garage or back porch cupboard. The almond-sized chayote seeds inside the fruits will sprout, emerge and lengthen in the dark. By February, the seedling will be about 6 inches long.
Step 3
Fill the 5-gallon container to within several inches of the top with thoroughly moistened potting soil. Scoop out a chayote-sized area in the center and plant the entire sprouted fruit, the tip barely showing.
Step 4
Water the chayote pot thoroughly and place it in a sunny window until temperatures outside are warm. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy.
Step 5
Place the pot outdoors when temperatures are warm, adjacent to the fence or trellis that will provide support. Water regularly, thoroughly saturating the soil. You may water once or twice daily during hot weather, because roots are limited to moisture available to them in the container.
Step 6
Mulch the chayote soil with several inches of mulch to conserve moisture. Tend the vine all summer; it will grow to 30 feet or more before blossoming or setting fruit. Vines will bloom in August or September and be covered with chayotes by September or October.
Step 7
Harvest fruits when pickle size, sliced-cucumber size or 1-pound-pear size. Vines will die back after the first frost, but fruits won't be damaged until the first hard frost. Protect the dormant roots by storing the pot in a cool -- not frosty -- garage or basement until spring. Water the pot lightly every month or so.
Step 1
Purchase several fresh chayote fruits in fall, even if they have been in cold storage and are wrapped in plastic. Unwrap them once you get home if they were encased in plastic.
Step 2
Store whole chayotes in a cool, dark place such as a garage or back porch cupboard. The almond-sized chayote seeds inside the fruits will sprout, emerge and lengthen in the dark. By February, the seedling will be about 6 inches long.
Step 3
Fill the 5-gallon container to within several inches of the top with thoroughly moistened potting soil. Scoop out a chayote-sized area in the center and plant the entire sprouted fruit, the tip barely showing.
Step 4
Water the chayote pot thoroughly and place it in a sunny window until temperatures outside are warm. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy.
Step 5
Place the pot outdoors when temperatures are warm, adjacent to the fence or trellis that will provide support. Water regularly, thoroughly saturating the soil. You may water once or twice daily during hot weather, because roots are limited to moisture available to them in the container.
Step 6
Mulch the chayote soil with several inches of mulch to conserve moisture. Tend the vine all summer; it will grow to 30 feet or more before blossoming or setting fruit. Vines will bloom in August or September and be covered with chayotes by September or October.
Step 7
Harvest fruits when pickle size, sliced-cucumber size or 1-pound-pear size. Vines will die back after the first frost, but fruits won't be damaged until the first hard frost. Protect the dormant roots by storing the pot in a cool -- not frosty -- garage or basement until spring. Water the pot lightly every month or so.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
The tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is a summer vegetable in the nightshade family. All tomatoes fall into one of two categories: determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes only grow to a certain size and produce a certain number of fruits, depending on the variety. Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow vines and produce fruit for as long as conditions are favorable. Regardless of the difference in growth patterns, all tomatoes must be fertilized and are susceptible to the same pests, disease and frost damage.
Tomato Characteristics
Tomatoes come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Tomato sizes are characterized by weight and fall into three categories: beefsteak, cherry and grape. Beefsteak tomatoes can grow quite large at over 16 ounces, while small grape tomatoes mature to as little as 2 ounces. Some tomatoes are perfectly round while others, like roma varieties, are long and narrow, similar to a pepper. Oxheart varieties are heart-shaped with a pointed blossom end. Tomato colors include a wide range from white to black. Red and pink are the most common options, but purple and black varieties have gained popularity, particularly in specialty markets. Other colors include yellow, orange, green and various colors of stripes.
All tomato plants have green leaves and stems. Some small determinate patio varieties reach a maximum of 1- to 2-feet tall, while some indeterminate varieties can grow vines over 12-feet long in one growing season. Always read the plant description carefully before making a decision on variety.
Watch for Spring Frosts
Frost will kill a tomato plant, so have a plan in place in case there is a chance of a late spring frost after seedlings have been planted. Cut the bottom off milk jugs to create a mini-greenhouse to provide frost protection on a chilly late-spring night.
Because tomatoes are generally grown as annuals throughout the U.S. -- though they can be grown as tender perennials in -- all fruits should be harvested before the first expected frost in the fall.
Fertilization and Water Needs
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. After transplanting young seedlings, apply 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer per plant. With a rake, work it into the top few inches of soil in a circle all the way around the plant, out to 1 foot from the stem. Do not go deep enough to damage plant roots.
When the first tomatoes have reached the size of golf-balls, or reach half their mature size for smaller varieties, add 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 fertilizer per plant again. Reapply fertilizer three weeks later, and again after another three weeks.
Always water thoroughly after fertilizing and make sure fertilizer does not touch leaves or stems. Do not apply fertilizer to plants that are stressed due to drought or heat.
Water plants any time the soil is dry 1-inch below the soil surface. Infrequent, thorough watering is better than frequent light watering because this allows water to reach plant roots more effectively.
Support and Pruning
Small, determinate tomato varieties can be sufficiently supported by tying the main stem to a stake or using a standard three-ring tomato cage. Larger indeterminate varieties require more significant support. Make a sturdy, long-lasting tomato cage out of concrete remesh, available in sheets from many home improvement stores.
Determinate varieties should not be pruned unless they have damaged branches, which should be removed 1/4-inch from the main stem with sharp, sterilized pruning shears -- sterilize tools with an alcohol wipe between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Indeterminate varieties benefit from some pruning, especially if they outgrow their supports. Remove overgrown branches as needed to prevent broken stems due to fruit that is too heavy to support.
Managing Pests
Aphids are tiny white or green insects that cover leaves, stems and blooms. Knock aphids off of tomato plants with a shot of water from a hose. If a severe infestation occurs, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap once per day as needed, thoroughly covering all leaves and stems.
Hornworms are thick caterpillars that grow to about 4 inches long. These pests can eat all the leaves off tomato plants overnight. Remove hornworms by picking them off plants as soon as they are seen. For a severe infestation of hornworms, apply a solution of Bacillis thuringiensis to the leaves of tomato plants in the evening; mix about 1 tablespoon Bt per gallon of water, but always follow your brand's label instructions. Reapply each night as long as hornworms are present. Store Bt out of reach of children and pets.
Banishing Blight
Tomatoes are not particularly prone to disease, but yellow and brown leaves close to the ground may indicate blight. The only way to control blight is to remove damaged leaves as soon as they are visible. Burn leaves or put them in the garbage. Never compost diseased leaves. To prevent blight, select a blight-resistant variety and practice crop rotation by planting tomatoes in a different spot each year.
Tomato Characteristics
Tomatoes come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Tomato sizes are characterized by weight and fall into three categories: beefsteak, cherry and grape. Beefsteak tomatoes can grow quite large at over 16 ounces, while small grape tomatoes mature to as little as 2 ounces. Some tomatoes are perfectly round while others, like roma varieties, are long and narrow, similar to a pepper. Oxheart varieties are heart-shaped with a pointed blossom end. Tomato colors include a wide range from white to black. Red and pink are the most common options, but purple and black varieties have gained popularity, particularly in specialty markets. Other colors include yellow, orange, green and various colors of stripes.
All tomato plants have green leaves and stems. Some small determinate patio varieties reach a maximum of 1- to 2-feet tall, while some indeterminate varieties can grow vines over 12-feet long in one growing season. Always read the plant description carefully before making a decision on variety.
Watch for Spring Frosts
Frost will kill a tomato plant, so have a plan in place in case there is a chance of a late spring frost after seedlings have been planted. Cut the bottom off milk jugs to create a mini-greenhouse to provide frost protection on a chilly late-spring night.
Because tomatoes are generally grown as annuals throughout the U.S. -- though they can be grown as tender perennials in -- all fruits should be harvested before the first expected frost in the fall.
Fertilization and Water Needs
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. After transplanting young seedlings, apply 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer per plant. With a rake, work it into the top few inches of soil in a circle all the way around the plant, out to 1 foot from the stem. Do not go deep enough to damage plant roots.
When the first tomatoes have reached the size of golf-balls, or reach half their mature size for smaller varieties, add 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 fertilizer per plant again. Reapply fertilizer three weeks later, and again after another three weeks.
Always water thoroughly after fertilizing and make sure fertilizer does not touch leaves or stems. Do not apply fertilizer to plants that are stressed due to drought or heat.
Water plants any time the soil is dry 1-inch below the soil surface. Infrequent, thorough watering is better than frequent light watering because this allows water to reach plant roots more effectively.
Support and Pruning
Small, determinate tomato varieties can be sufficiently supported by tying the main stem to a stake or using a standard three-ring tomato cage. Larger indeterminate varieties require more significant support. Make a sturdy, long-lasting tomato cage out of concrete remesh, available in sheets from many home improvement stores.
Determinate varieties should not be pruned unless they have damaged branches, which should be removed 1/4-inch from the main stem with sharp, sterilized pruning shears -- sterilize tools with an alcohol wipe between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Indeterminate varieties benefit from some pruning, especially if they outgrow their supports. Remove overgrown branches as needed to prevent broken stems due to fruit that is too heavy to support.
Managing Pests
Aphids are tiny white or green insects that cover leaves, stems and blooms. Knock aphids off of tomato plants with a shot of water from a hose. If a severe infestation occurs, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap once per day as needed, thoroughly covering all leaves and stems.
Hornworms are thick caterpillars that grow to about 4 inches long. These pests can eat all the leaves off tomato plants overnight. Remove hornworms by picking them off plants as soon as they are seen. For a severe infestation of hornworms, apply a solution of Bacillis thuringiensis to the leaves of tomato plants in the evening; mix about 1 tablespoon Bt per gallon of water, but always follow your brand's label instructions. Reapply each night as long as hornworms are present. Store Bt out of reach of children and pets.
Banishing Blight
Tomatoes are not particularly prone to disease, but yellow and brown leaves close to the ground may indicate blight. The only way to control blight is to remove damaged leaves as soon as they are visible. Burn leaves or put them in the garbage. Never compost diseased leaves. To prevent blight, select a blight-resistant variety and practice crop rotation by planting tomatoes in a different spot each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
Tomato plants (Lycopersicon lycopersicum) technically produce fruits, but people use the fruits as vegetables in salads and other dishes too numerous to list. Unfortunately, squirrels eat tomato fruits, too, passing up unripe green ones to eat only those that are ripe red. Foiling hungry squirrels is never simple. Tomato plants usually are grown as annuals.
Use Dogs and Cats
The old-fashioned method of letting a dog roam the garden is one way of discouraging squirrels from eating tomato fruits. They don't like cats either. Cats prey on squirrels.
Not all dogs are equal for this chore. Some dogs are squirrel specialists. For example, the American squirrel dog is bred to chase squirrels. A German pinscher is specifically bred to chase squirrels and other rodents.
Build Physical Barriers
Keep squirrels from eating your tomato fruits by covering your plants with plastic bird netting, chicken wire or hardware cloth; all of those barrier items are available at many garden supply centers. Whether or not this method is practical depends on the variety of tomato plants you grow.
Indeterminate tomatoes, including heirloom varieties, yield fruits all summer, but those plants are climbers that need to be staked. They can grow 10 to 12 feet tall, although 6 to 8 feet is more usual, hardly a size that you can easily surround with a barrier.
Determinate tomatoes, which usually bear fruits in late June, typically remain under 5 feet tall. So they are possible candidates for covering with bird netting.
Dwarf tomatoes, which are hybrid determinate cultivars, grow as low as 3 feet high and spread 3 feet wide. They are small enough to cover with bird netting or even chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Cage small determinate or dwarf tomato plants by encircling each of them with chicken wire and stringing bird netting over each one's top. Fasten the netting in place with clothespins. When you harvest your tomato fruits, simply remove the netting, and then put it back in place.
Wrap individual ripening tomato fruits with bird netting.
Use Smell, Bad and Good
Squirrels can smell predators, including dogs and cats, and avoid predator-scented areas. Collect dog or cat hair in a vacuum cleaner, or get some from a pet store. Put the hair in a nylon stocking or porous bag, and place the stocking or bag at the foot of your tomato plants. A variation of this method is to spray urine from wolves or other squirrel predators on the ground at the base of your tomato plants. Some garden supply stores offer predator urine.
Squirrels avoid the odor of blood meal, too. It is a dry powder extracted from slaughterhouse waste and sometimes is used as an organic fertilizer; it is available at plant nurseries and garden supply centers. Spread blood meal on the soil around your tomato plants, using fewer than 4 ounces of blood meal per 1 square yard. Blood meal contains high levels of ammonia and nitrogen; so do not apply more than that amount.
Combine 5 ounces bottle of hot pepper sauce and 1 teaspoon of a liquid, mild detergent with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the bases of your tomato plants. Respray the plants with the mixture every few days for two weeks while the squirrels learn to avoid your tomatoes. Also respray after it rains.
Establish a squirrel hangout with peanuts, corn, sunflower seeds and other food squirrels eat; you could even include some tomatoes in the mix. Give the squirrels water at the hangout, too. Place the hangout in an isolated spot well away from your tomatoes. If they get their fill at the hangout, they'll have no reason to raid your tomatoes.
Use Water and Motion
Install a motion-activated sprinkler that will douse the critters with water when they invade your garden.
Another option is to install pinwheels, compact disks or aluminum pie tins in your garden. They will move and flash whenever the wind blows. These items work for a while, and then squirrels get used to them and go for the garden's tomatoes.
Use Dogs and Cats
The old-fashioned method of letting a dog roam the garden is one way of discouraging squirrels from eating tomato fruits. They don't like cats either. Cats prey on squirrels.
Not all dogs are equal for this chore. Some dogs are squirrel specialists. For example, the American squirrel dog is bred to chase squirrels. A German pinscher is specifically bred to chase squirrels and other rodents.
Build Physical Barriers
Keep squirrels from eating your tomato fruits by covering your plants with plastic bird netting, chicken wire or hardware cloth; all of those barrier items are available at many garden supply centers. Whether or not this method is practical depends on the variety of tomato plants you grow.
Indeterminate tomatoes, including heirloom varieties, yield fruits all summer, but those plants are climbers that need to be staked. They can grow 10 to 12 feet tall, although 6 to 8 feet is more usual, hardly a size that you can easily surround with a barrier.
Determinate tomatoes, which usually bear fruits in late June, typically remain under 5 feet tall. So they are possible candidates for covering with bird netting.
Dwarf tomatoes, which are hybrid determinate cultivars, grow as low as 3 feet high and spread 3 feet wide. They are small enough to cover with bird netting or even chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Cage small determinate or dwarf tomato plants by encircling each of them with chicken wire and stringing bird netting over each one's top. Fasten the netting in place with clothespins. When you harvest your tomato fruits, simply remove the netting, and then put it back in place.
Wrap individual ripening tomato fruits with bird netting.
Use Smell, Bad and Good
Squirrels can smell predators, including dogs and cats, and avoid predator-scented areas. Collect dog or cat hair in a vacuum cleaner, or get some from a pet store. Put the hair in a nylon stocking or porous bag, and place the stocking or bag at the foot of your tomato plants. A variation of this method is to spray urine from wolves or other squirrel predators on the ground at the base of your tomato plants. Some garden supply stores offer predator urine.
Squirrels avoid the odor of blood meal, too. It is a dry powder extracted from slaughterhouse waste and sometimes is used as an organic fertilizer; it is available at plant nurseries and garden supply centers. Spread blood meal on the soil around your tomato plants, using fewer than 4 ounces of blood meal per 1 square yard. Blood meal contains high levels of ammonia and nitrogen; so do not apply more than that amount.
Combine 5 ounces bottle of hot pepper sauce and 1 teaspoon of a liquid, mild detergent with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the bases of your tomato plants. Respray the plants with the mixture every few days for two weeks while the squirrels learn to avoid your tomatoes. Also respray after it rains.
Establish a squirrel hangout with peanuts, corn, sunflower seeds and other food squirrels eat; you could even include some tomatoes in the mix. Give the squirrels water at the hangout, too. Place the hangout in an isolated spot well away from your tomatoes. If they get their fill at the hangout, they'll have no reason to raid your tomatoes.
Use Water and Motion
Install a motion-activated sprinkler that will douse the critters with water when they invade your garden.
Another option is to install pinwheels, compact disks or aluminum pie tins in your garden. They will move and flash whenever the wind blows. These items work for a while, and then squirrels get used to them and go for the garden's tomatoes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
If you have a vegetable garden or are thinking of starting one, tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are likely on your list of plants to grow. If you're looking for a variety that has flavorful, all-purpose fruits, a tomato called "Better Boy" could be the perfect choice. An indeterminate plant that keeps growing all season long, this plant thrives in strong light and good garden soil, with just a little extra care ensuring a heavy yield. Tomatoes are grown as annuals in all parts of the United States.
Planting Seedlings
Sow "Better Boy" seeds indoors about six or eight weeks before you expect outdoor temperature to stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night, using moist sterile potting soil or soil-less mix. Cover seeds with 1/8 inch of mix and, once seedlings appear, keep them in a sunny spot or under fluorescent grow lights. You can also buy seedlings at a garden center but, in either case, harden plants off for a week or two by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor air and light.
Space "Better Boy" seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart , with 4 feet between rows. Remove the bottom two leaves from each plant and plant in a deep hole, so that these leaf nodes are covered by soil. Planting deep encourages rooting from the stem, making a well-seated plant.
Sun, Soil and Water
"Better Boy" tomatoes thrive and fruit heavily when grown in a spot that gets full sun, with six hours of sun a minimum for good results. They also need fertile soil. When planting, add 2 or 3 inches of compost to the bottom of each hole, along with a handful of bonemeal. Tomatoes also need magnesium for a good start; add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to each hole to provide this mineral.
Water the seedlings in well and then water evenly during the season, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. To prevent fungal problems, water early on sunny days so plants dry quickly, and use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to help keep foliage dry.
Feeding and Pruning
It takes about 70 days to get the first ripe "Better Boy" tomatoes, but feeding the plants is important for a good harvest. Start fertilizing when the first fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, and then feed again when harvest begins. Use a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5, side-dressing each plant with about 1/2 cup of the granular fertilizer, but turn the fertilizer into the soil gently to avoid disturbing roots.
"Better Boy" is an indeterminate variety that grows all season long, so it benefits from pruning to maximize fruiting and keep its size under control. As the plant grows, allow only one or two main stems to grow and remove suckers -- shoots appearing where each leaf originates -- to funnel the plant's energy into fruiting, using shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of disease. Also, help the plant produce the last ripe fruits by cutting back its fruitless top near the end of summer.
Support and Possible Problems
"Better Boy" is a heavy producer, with individual fruits weighing up to 1 pound each, so they benefit from support while growing. Either drive a sturdy stake into the ground, using soft ties to attach the stem to the stake at intervals, or use a commercial tomato cage for support, tying the plant to its wire as needed.
These plants are susceptible to fungal disorders and fruit cracking, but ensuring constant, even moisture and giving plants lots of space in well-drained soil helps avoid these problems. They can attract pests such as large green hornworms and striped potato beetles, which can be hand-picked, and aphids, which are best controlled by washing plants with a strong water stream.
Planting Seedlings
Sow "Better Boy" seeds indoors about six or eight weeks before you expect outdoor temperature to stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night, using moist sterile potting soil or soil-less mix. Cover seeds with 1/8 inch of mix and, once seedlings appear, keep them in a sunny spot or under fluorescent grow lights. You can also buy seedlings at a garden center but, in either case, harden plants off for a week or two by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor air and light.
Space "Better Boy" seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart , with 4 feet between rows. Remove the bottom two leaves from each plant and plant in a deep hole, so that these leaf nodes are covered by soil. Planting deep encourages rooting from the stem, making a well-seated plant.
Sun, Soil and Water
"Better Boy" tomatoes thrive and fruit heavily when grown in a spot that gets full sun, with six hours of sun a minimum for good results. They also need fertile soil. When planting, add 2 or 3 inches of compost to the bottom of each hole, along with a handful of bonemeal. Tomatoes also need magnesium for a good start; add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to each hole to provide this mineral.
Water the seedlings in well and then water evenly during the season, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. To prevent fungal problems, water early on sunny days so plants dry quickly, and use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to help keep foliage dry.
Feeding and Pruning
It takes about 70 days to get the first ripe "Better Boy" tomatoes, but feeding the plants is important for a good harvest. Start fertilizing when the first fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, and then feed again when harvest begins. Use a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5, side-dressing each plant with about 1/2 cup of the granular fertilizer, but turn the fertilizer into the soil gently to avoid disturbing roots.
"Better Boy" is an indeterminate variety that grows all season long, so it benefits from pruning to maximize fruiting and keep its size under control. As the plant grows, allow only one or two main stems to grow and remove suckers -- shoots appearing where each leaf originates -- to funnel the plant's energy into fruiting, using shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of disease. Also, help the plant produce the last ripe fruits by cutting back its fruitless top near the end of summer.
Support and Possible Problems
"Better Boy" is a heavy producer, with individual fruits weighing up to 1 pound each, so they benefit from support while growing. Either drive a sturdy stake into the ground, using soft ties to attach the stem to the stake at intervals, or use a commercial tomato cage for support, tying the plant to its wire as needed.
These plants are susceptible to fungal disorders and fruit cracking, but ensuring constant, even moisture and giving plants lots of space in well-drained soil helps avoid these problems. They can attract pests such as large green hornworms and striped potato beetles, which can be hand-picked, and aphids, which are best controlled by washing plants with a strong water stream.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
The juicy, lush flavor and rampant, easy-care growth makes tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) a garden favorite. While humans enjoy the sweet, tart flavor of the fruits, caterpillars are also attracted to the tomato plants, requiring quick action to remove the hungry invaders. Although the tomato plants will keep producing fruits, reducing the number of caterpillars on the plants will increase the harvest. Removal methods range from hand-picking to spraying insecticides.
About Tomato Plants
Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather.
The Caterpillars
Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes.
The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long.
The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long.
The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato.
Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched.
Non-Insecticide Controls
Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water.
Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem.
Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season.
Less Toxic Insecticides
In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars.
Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution.
Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.
About Tomato Plants
Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather.
The Caterpillars
Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes.
The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long.
The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long.
The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato.
Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched.
Non-Insecticide Controls
Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water.
Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem.
Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season.
Less Toxic Insecticides
In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars.
Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution.
Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
Growing strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) requires some care, but the freshly picked, sweet, juicy fruits are worth the effort. Strawberries grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and in USDA zones 9 and 10 they're usually grown as cool-season, annual plants. Three kinds of are available: June-bearing, everlasting and day neutral. June-bearing strawberries fruit in early summer, everlasting varieties fruit in spring, summer and fall, and day neutral varieties bear fruit throughout the growing season. All three types grow best in full-sun sites and well-drained soils.
Soil, Light and Spacing
For the largest crop of fruits, grow strawberry plants in soil rich in organic matter and in a site that receives at least six hours of direct light per day. Space June-bearing strawberries 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart, and space everlasting and day neutral varieties 1 foot apart in a bed of two or three rows spaced 1 foot apart. June-bearing strawberries produce shoots called runners that root and grow into new plants on either side of their rows, creating strawberry beds 2 feet wide. Everlasting and day neutral strawberry plants produce few runners and these are removed, so they grow as single plants.
Water and Fertilizer
Moist growing sites and fertilizer encourage strawberries to grow healthily. Strawberries need about 1 inch of water each week when the weather is dry during the growing season. Apply the water to the base of the plants, avoiding the leaves. Over-fertilizing strawberries causes excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit, but plants benefit from an annual fertilizer application after harvest. Dilute 2 tablespoons of a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and pour 1 to 2 cups of the solution at the base of each strawberry plant.
Mulch for Strawberries
Strawberries benefit from mulching, which suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and protects plants from frost. Remove weeds from around strawberry plants, and spread a 2-inch layer of an organic mulch such as garden compost or leaf mold, avoiding the plant stems. In areas where fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, spread a 3- to 4-inch layer of straw over plants in late fall. In spring, when young, yellow foliage appears, pull mulch away from the plants but replace it when frosts are predicted. Straw mulches can also be spread beneath developing fruit to keep it off the ground.
Strawberry Pruning
General care for strawberries includes pruning blossoms and runners. Pinch the blossoms off June-bearing strawberries in their first season to encourage the plants to develop strong root systems and bear a large crop the following year. Pinch the blossoms off everlasting and day neutral types until early July, which helps the plants establish before putting energy into growing fruit. Prune the runners from everlasting and day neutral plants whenever they appear. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol over the blades, and cut the runners where they join the rest of the plant. Sterilize the shears again when you've finished.
Strawberry Renovation
June-bearing strawberries growing as perennials provide crops for three or four years with annual renovation. After harvest, mow the strawberry beds to remove the old foliage. Set the mower blades to 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the ground. Rake off the leaves, and narrow the beds to 6 to 12 inches wide by digging out plants on both sides, and remove all weeds. Fertilize the strawberry plants with a granular or powder 10-10-10 fertilizer spread at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet, and mix the fertilizer lightly into the soil surface. Water the renovated patch for the rest of the growing season, applying 1 inch of water per week during dry weather.
Soil, Light and Spacing
For the largest crop of fruits, grow strawberry plants in soil rich in organic matter and in a site that receives at least six hours of direct light per day. Space June-bearing strawberries 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart, and space everlasting and day neutral varieties 1 foot apart in a bed of two or three rows spaced 1 foot apart. June-bearing strawberries produce shoots called runners that root and grow into new plants on either side of their rows, creating strawberry beds 2 feet wide. Everlasting and day neutral strawberry plants produce few runners and these are removed, so they grow as single plants.
Water and Fertilizer
Moist growing sites and fertilizer encourage strawberries to grow healthily. Strawberries need about 1 inch of water each week when the weather is dry during the growing season. Apply the water to the base of the plants, avoiding the leaves. Over-fertilizing strawberries causes excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit, but plants benefit from an annual fertilizer application after harvest. Dilute 2 tablespoons of a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and pour 1 to 2 cups of the solution at the base of each strawberry plant.
Mulch for Strawberries
Strawberries benefit from mulching, which suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and protects plants from frost. Remove weeds from around strawberry plants, and spread a 2-inch layer of an organic mulch such as garden compost or leaf mold, avoiding the plant stems. In areas where fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, spread a 3- to 4-inch layer of straw over plants in late fall. In spring, when young, yellow foliage appears, pull mulch away from the plants but replace it when frosts are predicted. Straw mulches can also be spread beneath developing fruit to keep it off the ground.
Strawberry Pruning
General care for strawberries includes pruning blossoms and runners. Pinch the blossoms off June-bearing strawberries in their first season to encourage the plants to develop strong root systems and bear a large crop the following year. Pinch the blossoms off everlasting and day neutral types until early July, which helps the plants establish before putting energy into growing fruit. Prune the runners from everlasting and day neutral plants whenever they appear. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol over the blades, and cut the runners where they join the rest of the plant. Sterilize the shears again when you've finished.
Strawberry Renovation
June-bearing strawberries growing as perennials provide crops for three or four years with annual renovation. After harvest, mow the strawberry beds to remove the old foliage. Set the mower blades to 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the ground. Rake off the leaves, and narrow the beds to 6 to 12 inches wide by digging out plants on both sides, and remove all weeds. Fertilize the strawberry plants with a granular or powder 10-10-10 fertilizer spread at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet, and mix the fertilizer lightly into the soil surface. Water the renovated patch for the rest of the growing season, applying 1 inch of water per week during dry weather.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Blueberry plants are simple fruits to for almost anyone to grow. They grow in a variety of regions and will regrow year after year. A single blueberry plant can produce up to eight bushels of blueberries in a single growing season. Blueberries grow best in areas with acidic soil, so if your region has an abundance of acidity, you are in an even more ideal position to grow blueberries at home.
Step 1
Wait until the threat of frost subsides in the early spring to plant blueberry bushes.
Step 2
Plan blueberry bush plantings in a location that receives at least four to five hours of sunlight per day.
Step 3
Dig a space measuring 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep in which to grow each blueberry plant. Space the blueberry plants 6 feet apart since full grown plants will bush out quite a bit.
Step 4
Pour a thick layer of peat moss into the bottom of the hole and then insert the blueberry bush on top of it. Use your hands to pack the soil around the base of the blueberry plant to completely cover the roots.
Step 5
Trim away the lower branches of the blueberry plant to prevent them touching the ground.
Step 6
Apply fertilizer to the blueberry plant after it has been planted for several months. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer and spread it in a 12-inch diameter around the base of the blueberry plant.
Step 7
Water the blueberry plants at least twice per week and more during periods of drought.
Step 1
Wait until the threat of frost subsides in the early spring to plant blueberry bushes.
Step 2
Plan blueberry bush plantings in a location that receives at least four to five hours of sunlight per day.
Step 3
Dig a space measuring 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep in which to grow each blueberry plant. Space the blueberry plants 6 feet apart since full grown plants will bush out quite a bit.
Step 4
Pour a thick layer of peat moss into the bottom of the hole and then insert the blueberry bush on top of it. Use your hands to pack the soil around the base of the blueberry plant to completely cover the roots.
Step 5
Trim away the lower branches of the blueberry plant to prevent them touching the ground.
Step 6
Apply fertilizer to the blueberry plant after it has been planted for several months. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer and spread it in a 12-inch diameter around the base of the blueberry plant.
Step 7
Water the blueberry plants at least twice per week and more during periods of drought.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Strawberries, unlike many other fruits, grow on plants close along the ground, and put out their own runners for propagation. In Arkansas, strawberry plantings are split into two seasons.
Fall Planting
Many commercial growers plant their strawberries in the fall, to allow the plants to take root and establish over the winter for early spring blooming. When planting in fall, it's important to cover the strawberries with organic or plastic mulch to protect them through the winter.
Spring Planting
Most home gardeners choose to plant strawberries in the spring instead, for a more natural growing season. Spring plantings in Arkansas take place mid-April, when the ground has thawed to 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and is welcoming to young strawberry plants.
Location and Planting
Strawberries require plots that receive full sunshine all day, every day, to take advantage of the lush Arkansas warmth. The plants cannot tolerate crowding or wet feet, so in swampy areas of Arkansas, it's important to raise the beds or mix natural soil with plenty of quick-draining soil and compost.
Fall Planting
Many commercial growers plant their strawberries in the fall, to allow the plants to take root and establish over the winter for early spring blooming. When planting in fall, it's important to cover the strawberries with organic or plastic mulch to protect them through the winter.
Spring Planting
Most home gardeners choose to plant strawberries in the spring instead, for a more natural growing season. Spring plantings in Arkansas take place mid-April, when the ground has thawed to 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and is welcoming to young strawberry plants.
Location and Planting
Strawberries require plots that receive full sunshine all day, every day, to take advantage of the lush Arkansas warmth. The plants cannot tolerate crowding or wet feet, so in swampy areas of Arkansas, it's important to raise the beds or mix natural soil with plenty of quick-draining soil and compost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes come in varieties with different grow habits. The fruits can be grown on plants with a determinate, indeterminate and even semi-determinate manner. The manner of growth will determine if and how you will be pruning the plants. Pruning tomatoes is not necessary, but may increase the size of fruit marginally and will make the plants easier to manage. Pruning usually means removal of suckers and occasionally pinching back to enhance compact growth and stem strength. The difference between determinate and indeterminate ultimately boils down to the length of harvest and the time of harvest. Determinates produce fruit first, usually in a two- to three-week period, while indeterminate varieties will produce fruit for a longer period, but near the end of the summer.
Step 1
Look at the branching formation on your plants. If the branches are long with sparse foliage, they are likely indeterminate. A compact, bushy plant is determinate because it form flowers at the terminal end of the branch, which signals the stem to stop growing. You will need to stake an indeterminate plant or it will fall over when it bears fruit. Determinate plants rarely require staking.
Step 2
Check for suckers at the base of your tomato plant and at the crotch of a leaved stem. These are small growth that will increase density in the tomato plant's crown, but will not flower and fruit. They need to be pruned out and they only happen on indeterminate plants. If they are left to grow, the plant may have mildew problems due to lack of air circulation, problems with fruit ripening because sunlight is not penetrating, and the suckers draw energy that would be better used on the fruit.
Step 3
Consider the height of the plant. Determinate varieties are usually only 2 to 3 feet tall. Indeterminate plants can get 6 feet tall and have numerous long branches. The determinate plants are also referred to as compact and usually have smaller fruit than indeterminate varieties. Some of the newer varieties of tomatoes are determinate while the older ones and many heirlooms are indeterminate.
Step 4
Count how many flowers are in various stages and how many are simply mature and ready to fruit. The determinate plants will flower nearly all at once and set fruit that will be the one crop on the plant and will ripen at nearly the same time. Then the plant yellows and is finished. The indeterminate plant will have buds, flowers and flowers that have been pollinated all at once and the cycle will continue all season long.
Step 5
Check the plant tag for your variety. Some of the common indeterminate types grown in the home garden are: Brandywine, Early Girl and Mr. Stripey. Some determinates that have proven to do well in the home vegetable garden are: Celebrity, Small Fry and Oregon Spring.
Step 1
Look at the branching formation on your plants. If the branches are long with sparse foliage, they are likely indeterminate. A compact, bushy plant is determinate because it form flowers at the terminal end of the branch, which signals the stem to stop growing. You will need to stake an indeterminate plant or it will fall over when it bears fruit. Determinate plants rarely require staking.
Step 2
Check for suckers at the base of your tomato plant and at the crotch of a leaved stem. These are small growth that will increase density in the tomato plant's crown, but will not flower and fruit. They need to be pruned out and they only happen on indeterminate plants. If they are left to grow, the plant may have mildew problems due to lack of air circulation, problems with fruit ripening because sunlight is not penetrating, and the suckers draw energy that would be better used on the fruit.
Step 3
Consider the height of the plant. Determinate varieties are usually only 2 to 3 feet tall. Indeterminate plants can get 6 feet tall and have numerous long branches. The determinate plants are also referred to as compact and usually have smaller fruit than indeterminate varieties. Some of the newer varieties of tomatoes are determinate while the older ones and many heirlooms are indeterminate.
Step 4
Count how many flowers are in various stages and how many are simply mature and ready to fruit. The determinate plants will flower nearly all at once and set fruit that will be the one crop on the plant and will ripen at nearly the same time. Then the plant yellows and is finished. The indeterminate plant will have buds, flowers and flowers that have been pollinated all at once and the cycle will continue all season long.
Step 5
Check the plant tag for your variety. Some of the common indeterminate types grown in the home garden are: Brandywine, Early Girl and Mr. Stripey. Some determinates that have proven to do well in the home vegetable garden are: Celebrity, Small Fry and Oregon Spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
Wild blueberries belong to the Vaccinium genus and are loved for the sweet-tart fruits they produce in mid- to late summer. As their name suggests, wild blueberries can be found in abandoned fields, along the side of the road, in forests and on mountains. These hardy plants spread through seeds and the development of rhizomes, or underground stems.
Branch, Foliage and Fruit Production
All wild blueberries produce blue-black, round fruits -- their most distinctive characteristic. The fruit has a five-pointed crown on the underside of the berry. Wild blueberries have thin branches and produce flowers that range from white to light pink in color. The leaves are green and broad, with a defined point, and they turn bright red in the fall. The berries produced by the wild plants are smaller than cultivated berries, roughly 1/4 inch in diameter, and they contain small, soft seeds.
Species of Wild Blueberries
The two primary species of wild blueberries that grow in North America are the lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) and the sour top (Vaccinium myrtilloides). The sour top is a larger shrub, reaching heights of 6 to 24 inches tall, while the lowbush blueberry grows 3 to 15 inches high. Both shrubs produce a dusky blue-colored berry, -- the sour top has a waxy coating on the outside of the berry, while the lowbush has a powdery-looking coating. As the name implies, sour top berries are less sweet than the lowbush blueberry.
Where to Find Wild Blueberries
Wild blueberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 6. The location of wild blueberries depends on the species. The lowbush blueberry can be found in fields and forests, while the sour top grows mostly in woodlands. While wild blueberries grow throughout the United States, they are most prevalent in Maine and New Jersey. Wild blueberries are safe to eat but will taste best when fully ripened. To test for ripeness, tickle the fruit bunches and eat only the fruit that falls off easily. Blueberries are not fully ripe until several days after they turn blue. When harvesting wild berries, be aware that it's easy to misidentify them, and not all berries are edible. Do not eat berries that you can't definitively identify.
Blueberries Vs. Huckleberries
Blueberries are commonly mistaken for huckleberries, another wild shrub that produces small blue fruits. Blueberries are lighter in color than huckleberries, although the size and shape of the fruits are similar. Huckleberries grow more densely than wild blueberries, which tend to have a creeping growth habit, and are much taller, reaching upward of 4 feet high. The flowers are bell-shaped on the huckleberry plant, and the leaves turn a dark gold to red-purple in the fall. The seeds of the huckleberry fruit are harder than blueberries, and there are 10 seeds per berry. Huckleberry plants are found more commonly in the Pacific Northwest and the Northeast, growing mainly on mountainsides.
Branch, Foliage and Fruit Production
All wild blueberries produce blue-black, round fruits -- their most distinctive characteristic. The fruit has a five-pointed crown on the underside of the berry. Wild blueberries have thin branches and produce flowers that range from white to light pink in color. The leaves are green and broad, with a defined point, and they turn bright red in the fall. The berries produced by the wild plants are smaller than cultivated berries, roughly 1/4 inch in diameter, and they contain small, soft seeds.
Species of Wild Blueberries
The two primary species of wild blueberries that grow in North America are the lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) and the sour top (Vaccinium myrtilloides). The sour top is a larger shrub, reaching heights of 6 to 24 inches tall, while the lowbush blueberry grows 3 to 15 inches high. Both shrubs produce a dusky blue-colored berry, -- the sour top has a waxy coating on the outside of the berry, while the lowbush has a powdery-looking coating. As the name implies, sour top berries are less sweet than the lowbush blueberry.
Where to Find Wild Blueberries
Wild blueberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 6. The location of wild blueberries depends on the species. The lowbush blueberry can be found in fields and forests, while the sour top grows mostly in woodlands. While wild blueberries grow throughout the United States, they are most prevalent in Maine and New Jersey. Wild blueberries are safe to eat but will taste best when fully ripened. To test for ripeness, tickle the fruit bunches and eat only the fruit that falls off easily. Blueberries are not fully ripe until several days after they turn blue. When harvesting wild berries, be aware that it's easy to misidentify them, and not all berries are edible. Do not eat berries that you can't definitively identify.
Blueberries Vs. Huckleberries
Blueberries are commonly mistaken for huckleberries, another wild shrub that produces small blue fruits. Blueberries are lighter in color than huckleberries, although the size and shape of the fruits are similar. Huckleberries grow more densely than wild blueberries, which tend to have a creeping growth habit, and are much taller, reaching upward of 4 feet high. The flowers are bell-shaped on the huckleberry plant, and the leaves turn a dark gold to red-purple in the fall. The seeds of the huckleberry fruit are harder than blueberries, and there are 10 seeds per berry. Huckleberry plants are found more commonly in the Pacific Northwest and the Northeast, growing mainly on mountainsides.
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