文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Yellowing or reddening of leaves, discoloured or aborting fruits and flowers, and poor plant growth. Fruits can become misshapen and display brown leathery patches.
Plants affected
All plants can be affected.
About Nutrient deficiency
In order to develop and complete their life-cycle without sustaining damage to new growth, flowers or fruit, plants require nutrients.
To maximise efficiency, nutrient supply to plants should be balanced to meet individual needs.
The main nutrients required are carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, hydrogen, phosphorous and potassium.
In addition to these, a number of less essential nutrients known as secondary nutrients are used by a plant to optimise its growth.
There are also many micro nutrients used in tiny amounts by specific plant species.
Main nutrients contribute to production of chlorophyll, fruit set and yield, defence against adverse environmental conditions, leaf loss, and certain diseases. They also aid in the healthy growth of roots, leaves and flowers.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Nutrient deficiency
Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous fertilisers.
Calcium ammonium nitrate
Ammonium nitrate
Urea
Potassium chloride
Potassium sulphate
Calcium carbonate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Incorporating farmyard manure, composted plant material, leaf mould and other natural sources of nutrients will ensure healthy plant growth.
Prevention
Establish a regular feeding programme for all potted and hanging basket plants, and those grown in a greenhouse.
Apply a suitable liquid feed to your garden plants at regular intervals when watering.
Apply a suitable granular feed to your lawn at seasonal intervals as indicated.
Incorporate slow release fertiliser granules into all compost used for potting plants.
Dig sources of plant nutrients such as garden compost or well-rotted manure into flower beds and vegetable patches, or place around the bases of existing plants.
Scarify, top-dress, and aerate lawns at the beginning and end of growing seasons.
Plants affected
All plants can be affected.
About Nutrient deficiency
In order to develop and complete their life-cycle without sustaining damage to new growth, flowers or fruit, plants require nutrients.
To maximise efficiency, nutrient supply to plants should be balanced to meet individual needs.
The main nutrients required are carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, hydrogen, phosphorous and potassium.
In addition to these, a number of less essential nutrients known as secondary nutrients are used by a plant to optimise its growth.
There are also many micro nutrients used in tiny amounts by specific plant species.
Main nutrients contribute to production of chlorophyll, fruit set and yield, defence against adverse environmental conditions, leaf loss, and certain diseases. They also aid in the healthy growth of roots, leaves and flowers.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Nutrient deficiency
Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous fertilisers.
Calcium ammonium nitrate
Ammonium nitrate
Urea
Potassium chloride
Potassium sulphate
Calcium carbonate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Incorporating farmyard manure, composted plant material, leaf mould and other natural sources of nutrients will ensure healthy plant growth.
Prevention
Establish a regular feeding programme for all potted and hanging basket plants, and those grown in a greenhouse.
Apply a suitable liquid feed to your garden plants at regular intervals when watering.
Apply a suitable granular feed to your lawn at seasonal intervals as indicated.
Incorporate slow release fertiliser granules into all compost used for potting plants.
Dig sources of plant nutrients such as garden compost or well-rotted manure into flower beds and vegetable patches, or place around the bases of existing plants.
Scarify, top-dress, and aerate lawns at the beginning and end of growing seasons.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Leaves, stems, flowers and buds will blacken, shrivel, wilt and possibly die. Fruits can become discoloured, and plants may be covered in a white, shiny frost. Stem and trunk bark may split, and develop cankers as a result of the damage.
Plants affected
Potentially all non-hardy plants.
About
Frost damage can occur anytime between late September to mid May.
Regular freezing and thawing of plants weakens cell walls.
Ice crystals form inside the plant removing water from the cells, or causing them swell and rupture.
Younger, tender plants are generally more susceptible, although hardier plants can be damaged during severe frosts.
Gardens sometimes have areas where cold air collects, commonly called “frost pockets”.
Plants infected with viral diseases are often more susceptible to frost damage.
When soil freezes, young plants may be squeezed out from beneath the surface.
The length of exposure to cold temperatures is often as important and the actual temperature.
Preventing further damage
Covering plants with horticultural fleece will reduce exposure to frost.
Removing any affected plant material will reduce the spread of disease from the damaged areas.
Avoid planting seeds in “frost pockets” in your garden.
Choose hardy plant varieties to grow.
A south facing wall will provide a warmer micro-climate for tender plants.
Plants affected
Potentially all non-hardy plants.
About
Frost damage can occur anytime between late September to mid May.
Regular freezing and thawing of plants weakens cell walls.
Ice crystals form inside the plant removing water from the cells, or causing them swell and rupture.
Younger, tender plants are generally more susceptible, although hardier plants can be damaged during severe frosts.
Gardens sometimes have areas where cold air collects, commonly called “frost pockets”.
Plants infected with viral diseases are often more susceptible to frost damage.
When soil freezes, young plants may be squeezed out from beneath the surface.
The length of exposure to cold temperatures is often as important and the actual temperature.
Preventing further damage
Covering plants with horticultural fleece will reduce exposure to frost.
Removing any affected plant material will reduce the spread of disease from the damaged areas.
Avoid planting seeds in “frost pockets” in your garden.
Choose hardy plant varieties to grow.
A south facing wall will provide a warmer micro-climate for tender plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Leaves will become a dark brown colour and drop. Blossoms will die back. Fruits will become discoloured and wrinkled. A white slimy substance may excrete from infected areas. 
Plants affected
Pears, apples, hawthorn, rose
About Fireblight
Fireblight is a disease caused by a bacteria.
It gets its name from the scorched look of infected leaves.
The first recorded outbreak in Britain was in 1957.
In Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man it is a notifiable disease, and any potential or confirmed outbreaks must be reported to DEFRA.
The slime contains the bacteria, which spreads to other plants on insects, birds and other small animals. The bacteria can also be transmitted with garden tools, from water splashes during rainfall or by any other mechanical means.
The infection will spread quickly spread throughout a plant, which may die in only a few months.
Treatment
Chemical
There is currently no chemical control commercially available for fire blight.
Organic
Remove any infected leaves, flowers and branches and burn them.
Sterilise any tools used for removing infected material with a household bleach solution after each cut and always prune or saw into undamaged healthy wood.
Avoid planting more trees from susceptible species.
Plants affected
Pears, apples, hawthorn, rose
About Fireblight
Fireblight is a disease caused by a bacteria.
It gets its name from the scorched look of infected leaves.
The first recorded outbreak in Britain was in 1957.
In Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man it is a notifiable disease, and any potential or confirmed outbreaks must be reported to DEFRA.
The slime contains the bacteria, which spreads to other plants on insects, birds and other small animals. The bacteria can also be transmitted with garden tools, from water splashes during rainfall or by any other mechanical means.
The infection will spread quickly spread throughout a plant, which may die in only a few months.
Treatment
Chemical
There is currently no chemical control commercially available for fire blight.
Organic
Remove any infected leaves, flowers and branches and burn them.
Sterilise any tools used for removing infected material with a household bleach solution after each cut and always prune or saw into undamaged healthy wood.
Avoid planting more trees from susceptible species.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Distorted and misshapen leaves, flowers, buds and fruit growth. The leaf tissue around affected areas may become brown and eventually die.
Plants affected
Many different garden plants are affected including fruits, vegetables, ornamentals, trees and weeds.
About Capsid bugs
Capsid bugs feed on plant sap and in doing so cause deformation of plant material.
There are many different species of capsid bugs in the UK.
Capsids are also known as mirid bugs.
Some species of capsid also feed on other small insects.
Adults vary in colour from green to red/ brown, around 6mm in length, and have a long, slender feeding tube.
Young are similar in shape and colour, but smaller and wingless.
When disturbed they fall down onto the soil as a defence.
When feeding they inject saliva which is toxic to plants.
There can be one or two generations per year depending on the species.
Eggs are laid into cracks in tree bark, woody stems, and at the base of hedges. They hatch in late spring.
Depending on species, over-wintering takes place as eggs or as adults in plant debris.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Capsid bugs
Pyrethrins
Pyrethroids
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regularly inspect plants in spring.
Remove and destroy adults by hand.
Winter wash trees to destroy eggs.
Prevention
Keep areas around plants free from plant debris.
Remove weeds around plants.
Plants affected
Many different garden plants are affected including fruits, vegetables, ornamentals, trees and weeds.
About Capsid bugs
Capsid bugs feed on plant sap and in doing so cause deformation of plant material.
There are many different species of capsid bugs in the UK.
Capsids are also known as mirid bugs.
Some species of capsid also feed on other small insects.
Adults vary in colour from green to red/ brown, around 6mm in length, and have a long, slender feeding tube.
Young are similar in shape and colour, but smaller and wingless.
When disturbed they fall down onto the soil as a defence.
When feeding they inject saliva which is toxic to plants.
There can be one or two generations per year depending on the species.
Eggs are laid into cracks in tree bark, woody stems, and at the base of hedges. They hatch in late spring.
Depending on species, over-wintering takes place as eggs or as adults in plant debris.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Capsid bugs
Pyrethrins
Pyrethroids
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regularly inspect plants in spring.
Remove and destroy adults by hand.
Winter wash trees to destroy eggs.
Prevention
Keep areas around plants free from plant debris.
Remove weeds around plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
The main symptoms of this prevalent disorder are large, black/brown, leathery sunken pits on the base of fruits. This is especially common on tomatoes and peppers.
Plants affected
Peppers, tomatoes, squashes, aubergines and watermelons. Plants with soft, succulent fruits suffer the worst from this condition.
About Blossom-end rot
Blossom-end rot is not a disease but is the result of a number of environmental and physiological factors.
It's most common for the disorder to arise as the fruits are half way through their development.
The disorder develops if the plant's water intake is not sufficient for example in drought, and consequently the plant cannot extract enough calcium from the soil.
Plants grown in acid soil are at a higher risk of developing these symptoms.
Over-watering can also cause the disorder.
Blossom-end rot can cause considerable fruit/crop damage, sometimes with large areas of the fruit affected.
The rot is not transmittable from plant to plant or fruit to fruit.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Blossom-end rot
Calcium carbonate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Use Organic fertilisers with added plant nutrients, especially those containing calcium.
Try to maintain a constant soil pH around 6.5.
Prevention
Thorough checks of crops during the fruiting season will reveal the presence of this disorder and enable the growing conditions to be corrected.
Plants affected
Peppers, tomatoes, squashes, aubergines and watermelons. Plants with soft, succulent fruits suffer the worst from this condition.
About Blossom-end rot
Blossom-end rot is not a disease but is the result of a number of environmental and physiological factors.
It's most common for the disorder to arise as the fruits are half way through their development.
The disorder develops if the plant's water intake is not sufficient for example in drought, and consequently the plant cannot extract enough calcium from the soil.
Plants grown in acid soil are at a higher risk of developing these symptoms.
Over-watering can also cause the disorder.
Blossom-end rot can cause considerable fruit/crop damage, sometimes with large areas of the fruit affected.
The rot is not transmittable from plant to plant or fruit to fruit.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Blossom-end rot
Calcium carbonate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Use Organic fertilisers with added plant nutrients, especially those containing calcium.
Try to maintain a constant soil pH around 6.5.
Prevention
Thorough checks of crops during the fruiting season will reveal the presence of this disorder and enable the growing conditions to be corrected.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Dark spots or pits on the skin of the fruits and small brown blotches spread through the flesh.
Plants affected
Apples.
About
Bitter pit is caused by calcium deficiency.
In most cases, the soil has enough calcium, however it is not always available to be taken up by plants.
Levels of other nutrients such as potassium and magnesium can affect calcium availability.
Other factors which play a part include, soil acidity and moisture levels.
Treatment
On acid soils, steps can be used to raise the pH to an ideal level of around 6.5. pH testing kits are widely available and the level can be raised by adding lime to the soil. This can be a long process and the benefits of liming can be slow to appear.
Avoid using high potash (potassium) feeds. Although these are known to encourage flowering and fruiting, they can also reduce the availability of calcium in the soil.
Mulch with bulky materials which improve soil structure, such as home made compost or leaf mould.
Sprays containing calcium chloride or calcium carbonate can be applied directly to the fruits. These are often marketed as treatments for blossom end rot.
Plants affected
Apples.
About
Bitter pit is caused by calcium deficiency.
In most cases, the soil has enough calcium, however it is not always available to be taken up by plants.
Levels of other nutrients such as potassium and magnesium can affect calcium availability.
Other factors which play a part include, soil acidity and moisture levels.
Treatment
On acid soils, steps can be used to raise the pH to an ideal level of around 6.5. pH testing kits are widely available and the level can be raised by adding lime to the soil. This can be a long process and the benefits of liming can be slow to appear.
Avoid using high potash (potassium) feeds. Although these are known to encourage flowering and fruiting, they can also reduce the availability of calcium in the soil.
Mulch with bulky materials which improve soil structure, such as home made compost or leaf mould.
Sprays containing calcium chloride or calcium carbonate can be applied directly to the fruits. These are often marketed as treatments for blossom end rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Leaves will become a dark brown colour and drop. Blossoms will die back. Fruits will become discoloured and wrinkled. A white slimy substance may excrete from infected areas. Often, the first time this disease becomes apparent is when new leaves do not appear in spring on deciduous trees and shrubs. Alternatively, woody plants may suddenly defoliate and die-back along their stems. Determining the cause as honey fungus can be tricky though. A clear indicator is the presence of strands of the fungus in the soil around affected plants. These look like thick black bootlaces. Pale brown or yellowish toadstools may appear in autumn and a gooey resin may be found oozing from the base of stems.
Plants affected
The most susceptible include: apples, crab apples, walnut, willow, wisteria, cotoneaster, rhododendron, roses and many conifers, including pine, cypress and thuja. In addition almost all garden trees and shrubs and some herbaceous plants can also succumb.
About Honey fungus
Honey fungus lives in dead tree stumps and spreads from there to healthy plants nearby.
There are a group of closely related fungi which are collectively known as honey fungus.
Honey fungus is notoriously difficult to diagnose as the symptoms are easily confused with other problems.
Honey fungus remains in the soil for years if allowed to establish.
Treatment
Chemical
There is currently no chemical control commercially available for honey fungus.
Organic
Remove diseased plants and dig out the roots as far as possible.
Do not replant with trees or shrubs for at least a year.
Remove and replace the infected soil from around the affected plant.
Where possible, have any large stumps removed from the garden.
When replanting, stick to resistant plants such as oak, ash, beech, yew, clematis, laurel or mahonia.
Prevention
Sterilise any tools used for removing infected material with a household bleach solution after every use
Plants affected
The most susceptible include: apples, crab apples, walnut, willow, wisteria, cotoneaster, rhododendron, roses and many conifers, including pine, cypress and thuja. In addition almost all garden trees and shrubs and some herbaceous plants can also succumb.
About Honey fungus
Honey fungus lives in dead tree stumps and spreads from there to healthy plants nearby.
There are a group of closely related fungi which are collectively known as honey fungus.
Honey fungus is notoriously difficult to diagnose as the symptoms are easily confused with other problems.
Honey fungus remains in the soil for years if allowed to establish.
Treatment
Chemical
There is currently no chemical control commercially available for honey fungus.
Organic
Remove diseased plants and dig out the roots as far as possible.
Do not replant with trees or shrubs for at least a year.
Remove and replace the infected soil from around the affected plant.
Where possible, have any large stumps removed from the garden.
When replanting, stick to resistant plants such as oak, ash, beech, yew, clematis, laurel or mahonia.
Prevention
Sterilise any tools used for removing infected material with a household bleach solution after every use
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Cankers are deformed and diseased areas of tree bark. The directly infected area is usually sunken down, with the surrounding bark cracked and distorted. Initial signs of infection may include new shoots dying and wilting or discoloured leaves. Fruits can also be affected and may rot. Cankers usually have white or red coloured pustules depending on the time of year.
Plants affected
Apple canker infects apple, pear, mountain ash, beech, hawthorn, poplar and willow. Some varieties are more susceptible than others.
About Apple canker
Apple cankers occur when the fungus Nectria galligena finds its way into cracks and wounds in tree bark.
The infection will kill the tissue beneath the bark first.
The bark around the canker will eventually die back revealing the tissue.
Damage from pruning can also become infected.
Fungal spores appear creamy white in the spring and a darker red colour later in the year.
Spores can move between wounds by wind, water splash, or insect.
Wet soil exacerbates the infection.
Mild infections still allow some fruit to set.
Severe infections can rarely be cured and the tree may die.
The more infected and exposed areas a tree has, the more susceptible it is to further damage and infections.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Apple canker
Myclobutanil
Mancozeb
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Remove infected branches and twigs, making clean, neat cuts.
Larger cankers on trunks and thick branches can be cut out, although care must be taken to ensure that all bark showing symptoms of disease is removed.
Burn all removed infected material to ensure the spores are destroyed.
Prevention
Disinfect blades before and after pruning.
After pruning, apply canker paint to exposed healthy tissue.
Try to prune only in dry weather.
When planting new trees, pick varieties with a higher level of resistance to canker.
Include a spade of lime with the soil when planting a new tree.
Pruning back leaves and branches to improve the air circulation of older trees will help to stop the disease establishing.
Plants affected
Apple canker infects apple, pear, mountain ash, beech, hawthorn, poplar and willow. Some varieties are more susceptible than others.
About Apple canker
Apple cankers occur when the fungus Nectria galligena finds its way into cracks and wounds in tree bark.
The infection will kill the tissue beneath the bark first.
The bark around the canker will eventually die back revealing the tissue.
Damage from pruning can also become infected.
Fungal spores appear creamy white in the spring and a darker red colour later in the year.
Spores can move between wounds by wind, water splash, or insect.
Wet soil exacerbates the infection.
Mild infections still allow some fruit to set.
Severe infections can rarely be cured and the tree may die.
The more infected and exposed areas a tree has, the more susceptible it is to further damage and infections.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Apple canker
Myclobutanil
Mancozeb
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Remove infected branches and twigs, making clean, neat cuts.
Larger cankers on trunks and thick branches can be cut out, although care must be taken to ensure that all bark showing symptoms of disease is removed.
Burn all removed infected material to ensure the spores are destroyed.
Prevention
Disinfect blades before and after pruning.
After pruning, apply canker paint to exposed healthy tissue.
Try to prune only in dry weather.
When planting new trees, pick varieties with a higher level of resistance to canker.
Include a spade of lime with the soil when planting a new tree.
Pruning back leaves and branches to improve the air circulation of older trees will help to stop the disease establishing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
The pantry moth or Indian meal moth (Plodia interpunctella) is considered to be the most troublesome of the moths infesting stored products in the United States. They attack all cereal products, whole grains, dried fruits, pet foods, bird seed, dried milk and nuts. Damage is caused by the larvae spinning silken threads as they feed and crawl, thus webbing the particles of food together. Small moths are often noticed flying in a zigzag fashion around pantries and other infested areas.
Adult moths (5/8 inch wingspan) are pale gray in color and are easily distinguished from other grain infesting moths by the reddish brown or coppery luster of their outer forewing. Fully grown larvae (1/2 inch) have brown heads and are dirty white in color, sometimes tinged with green, yellow or pink. They are extremely active.
Life Cycle
Adult females deposit up to 300 eggs on or near food materials. Within two weeks larvae hatch and begin actively feeding. As they move they spin silken threads throughout the infested foods, which may become matted with webbing. Larvae feed for approximately two weeks until fully grown and select a pupation site (cracks and crevices, pantry walls, ceilings) where they spin cocoons. Transformation to pupae occurs, and adults emerge in about 30 days. The entire life-cycle requires 4-6 weeks to complete and there may be five overlapping generations per year, depending on temperature.
Note: Indian meal moths are most often introduced into the home in packaged goods and groceries. Here’s how to get rid of them naturally.
Pantry Moth Control
Inspect foods for possible infestation before you purchase.
Store susceptible foods in as dry a place or container as possible.
Infested food items can be thrown away or salvaged by freezing for 1 week.
Clean up food spills promptly, paying close attention to cracks and crevices.
The Pantry Pest Trap uses a powerful attractant to detect adult moths. Place near the problem area, generally where dried foodstuffs are stored.
Release trichogramma wasps to attack and destroy pest eggs. These tiny beneficial insects are very effective because they prevent the pest from reaching the destructive larval stage.
Apply food-grade diatomaceous earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Bt-kurstaki (Bt-k) is a highly selective biological pesticide used to manage the larval stage of this pest. Approved for organic use, it should be applied every 7- to 10-days, as needed.
Made from citrus peel extract, Orange Guard kills and repels many bugs on contact. Spray in kitchens, pantries and under cabinets and appliances — anywhere insects hide! Safe for use around food, people and pets.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Adult moths (5/8 inch wingspan) are pale gray in color and are easily distinguished from other grain infesting moths by the reddish brown or coppery luster of their outer forewing. Fully grown larvae (1/2 inch) have brown heads and are dirty white in color, sometimes tinged with green, yellow or pink. They are extremely active.
Life Cycle
Adult females deposit up to 300 eggs on or near food materials. Within two weeks larvae hatch and begin actively feeding. As they move they spin silken threads throughout the infested foods, which may become matted with webbing. Larvae feed for approximately two weeks until fully grown and select a pupation site (cracks and crevices, pantry walls, ceilings) where they spin cocoons. Transformation to pupae occurs, and adults emerge in about 30 days. The entire life-cycle requires 4-6 weeks to complete and there may be five overlapping generations per year, depending on temperature.
Note: Indian meal moths are most often introduced into the home in packaged goods and groceries. Here’s how to get rid of them naturally.
Pantry Moth Control
Inspect foods for possible infestation before you purchase.
Store susceptible foods in as dry a place or container as possible.
Infested food items can be thrown away or salvaged by freezing for 1 week.
Clean up food spills promptly, paying close attention to cracks and crevices.
The Pantry Pest Trap uses a powerful attractant to detect adult moths. Place near the problem area, generally where dried foodstuffs are stored.
Release trichogramma wasps to attack and destroy pest eggs. These tiny beneficial insects are very effective because they prevent the pest from reaching the destructive larval stage.
Apply food-grade diatomaceous earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Bt-kurstaki (Bt-k) is a highly selective biological pesticide used to manage the larval stage of this pest. Approved for organic use, it should be applied every 7- to 10-days, as needed.
Made from citrus peel extract, Orange Guard kills and repels many bugs on contact. Spray in kitchens, pantries and under cabinets and appliances — anywhere insects hide! Safe for use around food, people and pets.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Widely distributed throughout the United States, bacterial canker is most common on cherries and plums, but may also affect apricots, peaches and many other kinds of stone fruits. Suspect this plant disease if sunken, water-soaked or “gummy” lesions form on the trunk or twigs. When trees begin active growth in the spring, a sour smelling sap may ooze from these wounded areas. The cankers become darker than the surrounding healthy bark, and the underlying tissue is reddish-brown to black and moist.
Note: If cankers girdle the branches or trunk, the leaves above the diseased area curl and turn yellow. Growth stops and the branch or tree will eventually die.
The bacterium that causes canker, Pseudomonas syringae, enters trees through injured bark or an existing wound, such as a pruning cut on a twig or branch. Frost damage in the spring may promote additional infections. Bacterial canker infections occur during fall, winter and early spring (during cool, wet weather) and are spread by rain or water, and pruning tools. The bacteria overwinter in active cankers, in infected buds and on the surface of infected and healthy trees and weeds.
Treatment
Prune flowering trees during blooming when wounds heal fastest.
Remove wilted or dead limbs well below infected areas.
Avoid pruning in early spring and fall when bacteria are most active.
Treat all pruning cuts immediately with Tanglefoot® Tree Pruning Sealer and make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment — one part bleach to 4 parts water — after each cut.
If using string trimmers around the base of trees avoid damaging bark with breathable Tree Wrap to prevent infection.
Brush bark with white latex paint diluted with water to reduce bark-damaging temperature fluctuations.
Research has shown that copper fungicides have some success against this stone fruit problem. However, results are inconsistent. We recommend using it as one part of a total management program.
Remove weeds and grass from around the base of young trees to improve air circulation and keep the trunk and crown dry.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Mix 1/3 to 3/4 oz per gallon of water and paint or spray over pruning wounds and surrounding areas.
Note: If cankers girdle the branches or trunk, the leaves above the diseased area curl and turn yellow. Growth stops and the branch or tree will eventually die.
The bacterium that causes canker, Pseudomonas syringae, enters trees through injured bark or an existing wound, such as a pruning cut on a twig or branch. Frost damage in the spring may promote additional infections. Bacterial canker infections occur during fall, winter and early spring (during cool, wet weather) and are spread by rain or water, and pruning tools. The bacteria overwinter in active cankers, in infected buds and on the surface of infected and healthy trees and weeds.
Treatment
Prune flowering trees during blooming when wounds heal fastest.
Remove wilted or dead limbs well below infected areas.
Avoid pruning in early spring and fall when bacteria are most active.
Treat all pruning cuts immediately with Tanglefoot® Tree Pruning Sealer and make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment — one part bleach to 4 parts water — after each cut.
If using string trimmers around the base of trees avoid damaging bark with breathable Tree Wrap to prevent infection.
Brush bark with white latex paint diluted with water to reduce bark-damaging temperature fluctuations.
Research has shown that copper fungicides have some success against this stone fruit problem. However, results are inconsistent. We recommend using it as one part of a total management program.
Remove weeds and grass from around the base of young trees to improve air circulation and keep the trunk and crown dry.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Mix 1/3 to 3/4 oz per gallon of water and paint or spray over pruning wounds and surrounding areas.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
A common pest found in greenhouses and indoor/ outdoor gardens, thrips damage plants by sucking their juices and scraping at fruits, flowers and leaves. Plant leaves may turn pale, splotchy, and silvery, then die. Injured plants are twisted, discolored and scarred.
Adults are very small (less than 1/25 inch) straw-colored or black slender insects with two pairs of feathery wings. Without the use of a hand lens, they resemble tiny dark threads.
Damage
Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow and other light colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus.
Life Cycle
Adults and pupae overwinter in garden soil. In spring, newly emerged females insert eggs into the tissues of flowers, leaves or stems. (They do not need to mate for reproduction.) Each female can produce up to 80 eggs, which hatch within days in warm weather or weeks to months in colder weather. They become wingless larvae (nymphs), which feed on plant sap. After two or more nymphal stages, many thrips drop to the soil to pupate. Emerging adults fly to the plant and repeat the cycle. There may be 12-15 generations per year with the entire cycle from egg to adult requiring less than 16 days in warm weather.
Control
Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products.
To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.)
Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers.
Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method.
Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
Safe, smothering insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
Adults are very small (less than 1/25 inch) straw-colored or black slender insects with two pairs of feathery wings. Without the use of a hand lens, they resemble tiny dark threads.
Damage
Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow and other light colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus.
Life Cycle
Adults and pupae overwinter in garden soil. In spring, newly emerged females insert eggs into the tissues of flowers, leaves or stems. (They do not need to mate for reproduction.) Each female can produce up to 80 eggs, which hatch within days in warm weather or weeks to months in colder weather. They become wingless larvae (nymphs), which feed on plant sap. After two or more nymphal stages, many thrips drop to the soil to pupate. Emerging adults fly to the plant and repeat the cycle. There may be 12-15 generations per year with the entire cycle from egg to adult requiring less than 16 days in warm weather.
Control
Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products.
To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.)
Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.
Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers.
Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method.
Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.
Safe, smothering insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Sometimes called jumping plant lice, psyllids feed on a variety of plants including most fruit trees and small fruits as well as tomato and potato. Both adults and nymphs feed by piercing the leaf surface and extracting cell sap. This causes foliage (especially the upper leaves) to turn yellow, curl and eventually die. Honeydew secreted by the psyllids encourages the growth of dark sooty molds. Many species transmit disease-carrying viruses.
Adults (1/10 inch long) are reddish brown in color with transparent wings and strong jumping legs. They are very active and will hop or fly away when disturbed. Nymphs are flat and elliptical in shape, almost scale-like. They are less active than adults and are most numerous on the undersides of leaves. Newly hatched nymphs are yellowish in color but turn green as they mature.
Note: Psyllids are monophagous which means that they are host specific (each species feeds on only one plant type).
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in crevices on tree trunks. In early spring they mate and females begin depositing orange-yellow eggs in the crevices about the buds, and after the foliage is out, on the leaves. Hatching occurs in 4-15 days. Yellow to green nymphs pass through five in instars in 2-3 weeks before reaching the adult stage. There are one to five generations per year depending on species.
Psyllid Control
To get rid of psyllids spray horticultural oil in early spring to destroy overwintering adults and eggs.
Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, are important natural predators of this pest. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Diatomaceous earth contains no toxic poisons and works quickly on contact. Dust lightly and evenly over vegetable crops wherever adults are found.
Safer® Insecticidal Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Surround WP (kaolin clay) forms a protective barrier film, which acts as a broad spectrum crop protectant for preventing damage from insect pests.
70% Neem Oil is approved for organic use and can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adult insects. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with insecticides approved for organic use every 5-7 days. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower infested leaves is necessary for effective control.
Adults (1/10 inch long) are reddish brown in color with transparent wings and strong jumping legs. They are very active and will hop or fly away when disturbed. Nymphs are flat and elliptical in shape, almost scale-like. They are less active than adults and are most numerous on the undersides of leaves. Newly hatched nymphs are yellowish in color but turn green as they mature.
Note: Psyllids are monophagous which means that they are host specific (each species feeds on only one plant type).
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in crevices on tree trunks. In early spring they mate and females begin depositing orange-yellow eggs in the crevices about the buds, and after the foliage is out, on the leaves. Hatching occurs in 4-15 days. Yellow to green nymphs pass through five in instars in 2-3 weeks before reaching the adult stage. There are one to five generations per year depending on species.
Psyllid Control
To get rid of psyllids spray horticultural oil in early spring to destroy overwintering adults and eggs.
Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, are important natural predators of this pest. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Diatomaceous earth contains no toxic poisons and works quickly on contact. Dust lightly and evenly over vegetable crops wherever adults are found.
Safer® Insecticidal Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Surround WP (kaolin clay) forms a protective barrier film, which acts as a broad spectrum crop protectant for preventing damage from insect pests.
70% Neem Oil is approved for organic use and can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adult insects. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with insecticides approved for organic use every 5-7 days. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower infested leaves is necessary for effective control.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Primarily night feeders, the common earwig (Forficula auricularia) is considered to be an insect pest when it feeds on soft plant shoots, such as corn silks, and eats small holes in foliage and flowers. Sometimes ripened fruits are infested, but damage is usually tolerable. It can be particularly damaging to seedlings. Earwigs also play a beneficial role in the garden, acting as scavengers on decaying organic matter and predators of insect larvae, snails, aphids and other slow moving bugs. They are often carried great distances in produce shipments and other freight.
These slender red-brown insects (3/4 inch long) with elongated, flattened bodies are distinguished by a pair of sharp pincers at the tail end, which they use for capturing prey and mating. A few species have wings, although it is not a strong flier, and usually crawls in search of food. Earwigs get their name from an old superstition that they crawl into the ears of a sleeping person and bore into the brain. While menacing in appearance, they are harmless to man.
Note: Earwigs will occasionally enter the home. However, their presence is accidental and they will not establish themselves or reproduce indoors.
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in the soil. Females lay 20-50 cream-colored eggs in underground nests during January and February, and the newly hatched young (nymphs) first appear in April. Nymphs are protected in the nest and do not leave until after the first molt, when they must fend for themselves. Young earwigs develop gradually, passing through 4-5 nymphal instars before becoming adults. They are similar in appearance to adults, but lack wings and the large sized pincers. Most species in this country have one generation per year.
Earwig Control
If earwigs become pestiferous there are several effective organic methods that can be used for getting rid of them.
Remove garden debris and excessive mulch where earwigs are living and breeding.
Since earwigs seldom fly, a sticky band of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier around the trunks of trees, shrubs, and woody plants will prevent them from reaching the leaves and fruits on which they feed.
Broadcast Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscapes to eliminate or repel all kinds of troublesome pests.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Scatter Monterey Ant Control, a safe and organic bait containing iron phosphate and spinosad, evenly over the soil around or near areas to be protected.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
These slender red-brown insects (3/4 inch long) with elongated, flattened bodies are distinguished by a pair of sharp pincers at the tail end, which they use for capturing prey and mating. A few species have wings, although it is not a strong flier, and usually crawls in search of food. Earwigs get their name from an old superstition that they crawl into the ears of a sleeping person and bore into the brain. While menacing in appearance, they are harmless to man.
Note: Earwigs will occasionally enter the home. However, their presence is accidental and they will not establish themselves or reproduce indoors.
Life Cycle
Adults overwinter in the soil. Females lay 20-50 cream-colored eggs in underground nests during January and February, and the newly hatched young (nymphs) first appear in April. Nymphs are protected in the nest and do not leave until after the first molt, when they must fend for themselves. Young earwigs develop gradually, passing through 4-5 nymphal instars before becoming adults. They are similar in appearance to adults, but lack wings and the large sized pincers. Most species in this country have one generation per year.
Earwig Control
If earwigs become pestiferous there are several effective organic methods that can be used for getting rid of them.
Remove garden debris and excessive mulch where earwigs are living and breeding.
Since earwigs seldom fly, a sticky band of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier around the trunks of trees, shrubs, and woody plants will prevent them from reaching the leaves and fruits on which they feed.
Broadcast Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscapes to eliminate or repel all kinds of troublesome pests.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Scatter Monterey Ant Control, a safe and organic bait containing iron phosphate and spinosad, evenly over the soil around or near areas to be protected.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Cucumber beetles are found across the United States from Canada to Mexico and are either striped (Acalymma vittatum) or spotted (Diabrotica undecimpunctata howardi). Both species feed primarily on the leaves, flowers and fruits of cucurbits (cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and melons). Alternate plant hosts include beans, corn, peanuts and potatoes.
Adult cucumber beetles (1/4 inch long) are yellowish-green in color with dark heads, legs and antennae. They have distinct black spots or lengthwise stripes on their wings. During the growing season, they are found feeding on seedlings, foliage, pollen and flowers causing greatly reduced yields and sometimes plant loss. The slender white larvae (up to 1/3 inch long), have brown ends and injure plants by feeding on roots and underground stems. Heavy larvae populations can reduce plant vigor and damage melon rinds making the produce unfit for consumption or market.
Note: Adult and larval stages of the cucumber beetle transmit several plant diseases, including bacterial wilt and mosaic virus in cucurbits.
Life Cycle
Adult beetles overwinter in plant debris and garden trash. Females leave their winter sites in early spring and deposit up to 800 orange-yellow eggs in the soil near the base of plants. In about 10 days hatching occurs and the larvae feed for three or more weeks before pupating. First generation adults emerge 10 days later. A complete life cycle requires 6-9 weeks. Up to four generations can be produced in a single growing season.
Control
Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
Inspect plants frequently for beetles and handpick any that are discovered.
Floating row covers are extremely effective when placed on seedlings and left in place until plants are old enough to tolerate beetle damage.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, green lacewing and the spined soldier bug, will feed on pest eggs.
Beneficial nematodes work well to curtail immature stages developing in the soil.
When applied to plants, Surround WP (kaolin clay) leaves a fine powdery film that insects find unattractive for feeding and egg-laying.
Spinosad, the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray is approved for organic use and works on a long list of insects found on vegetable crops.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.
Remove garden trash and other debris shortly after harvest to reduce overwintering sites.
Adult cucumber beetles (1/4 inch long) are yellowish-green in color with dark heads, legs and antennae. They have distinct black spots or lengthwise stripes on their wings. During the growing season, they are found feeding on seedlings, foliage, pollen and flowers causing greatly reduced yields and sometimes plant loss. The slender white larvae (up to 1/3 inch long), have brown ends and injure plants by feeding on roots and underground stems. Heavy larvae populations can reduce plant vigor and damage melon rinds making the produce unfit for consumption or market.
Note: Adult and larval stages of the cucumber beetle transmit several plant diseases, including bacterial wilt and mosaic virus in cucurbits.
Life Cycle
Adult beetles overwinter in plant debris and garden trash. Females leave their winter sites in early spring and deposit up to 800 orange-yellow eggs in the soil near the base of plants. In about 10 days hatching occurs and the larvae feed for three or more weeks before pupating. First generation adults emerge 10 days later. A complete life cycle requires 6-9 weeks. Up to four generations can be produced in a single growing season.
Control
Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
Inspect plants frequently for beetles and handpick any that are discovered.
Floating row covers are extremely effective when placed on seedlings and left in place until plants are old enough to tolerate beetle damage.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, green lacewing and the spined soldier bug, will feed on pest eggs.
Beneficial nematodes work well to curtail immature stages developing in the soil.
When applied to plants, Surround WP (kaolin clay) leaves a fine powdery film that insects find unattractive for feeding and egg-laying.
Spinosad, the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray is approved for organic use and works on a long list of insects found on vegetable crops.
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.
Remove garden trash and other debris shortly after harvest to reduce overwintering sites.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Nature’s most industrious pollinator, the bumblebee (Bombus impatiens) facilitates the fruiting of a number of vegetables and tree fruits. Intensive bee pollination of this kind results in greater yields of everything from tomatoes and peppers to strawberries and cherries. In this sense, bumblebees helps feed the world.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including bumble bees, at Planet Natural. One garden hive — 45 to 60 workers — covers up to 5,000 square feet and costs $159.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
Bumble bees carry large pollen baskets on their hind legs. Pollen will also cling to their hairy abdomens to be deposited during their successive visits from blossom to blossom before returning to their hives. Hives are a place of communal activity where the gathered pollen is converted to food, offspring are fed, and the hive itself enlarged as food sources increase during the flowering season. It’s well know that these pollinators, like other social fauna, will defend their home from intruders. They also keep it cool during hot weather by aligning themselves in staggered lines and using their wings to fan the hive. Bumblebees are among nature’s most fascinating — and necessary — creatures.
HOW TO RELEASE:
Place the hive 1-3 feet above the ground, in a protected area. Do NOT place the hive in the foliage!
After placement, let the hive calm down for about 1 hour before opening the flight hole.
Whenever possible, open flight hole when ventilation windows are closed (early evening) to prevent loss of workers.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including bumble bees, at Planet Natural. One garden hive — 45 to 60 workers — covers up to 5,000 square feet and costs $159.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
Bumble bees carry large pollen baskets on their hind legs. Pollen will also cling to their hairy abdomens to be deposited during their successive visits from blossom to blossom before returning to their hives. Hives are a place of communal activity where the gathered pollen is converted to food, offspring are fed, and the hive itself enlarged as food sources increase during the flowering season. It’s well know that these pollinators, like other social fauna, will defend their home from intruders. They also keep it cool during hot weather by aligning themselves in staggered lines and using their wings to fan the hive. Bumblebees are among nature’s most fascinating — and necessary — creatures.
HOW TO RELEASE:
Place the hive 1-3 feet above the ground, in a protected area. Do NOT place the hive in the foliage!
After placement, let the hive calm down for about 1 hour before opening the flight hole.
Whenever possible, open flight hole when ventilation windows are closed (early evening) to prevent loss of workers.
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