文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
This disease produces small, dark irregular spots on tomato and pepper leaves; leaves eventually turn yellow and drop off. This defoliation weakens plants and exposes developing fruits to sunscald. Small, dark, wartlike raised spots with slightly sunken centers may appear on green fruits. Rot organisms are able to enter the fruit at these spots and cause decay. Bacterial spot symptoms are similar to, and often indistinguishable from, bacterial speck.
Very warm, wet weather encourages the development of the disease. The bacteria overwinter in plant residues. This disease is a problem mainly in the East and Midwest.
Prevention and Control
Purchase certified disease-free seeds.
Remove volunteer tomato and pepper plants, which may harbor the bacteria.
Use a three- to four-year crop rotation for susceptible crops.
Space plants well apart and support vines to ensure good air circulation.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses instead of overhead watering to keep foliage as dry as possible.
Keep the soil surface covered with mulch to prevent spores from splashing up from the soil surface.
Remove infected plant parts from the garden and destroy them or add them to a hot compost pile.
Very warm, wet weather encourages the development of the disease. The bacteria overwinter in plant residues. This disease is a problem mainly in the East and Midwest.
Prevention and Control
Purchase certified disease-free seeds.
Remove volunteer tomato and pepper plants, which may harbor the bacteria.
Use a three- to four-year crop rotation for susceptible crops.
Space plants well apart and support vines to ensure good air circulation.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses instead of overhead watering to keep foliage as dry as possible.
Keep the soil surface covered with mulch to prevent spores from splashing up from the soil surface.
Remove infected plant parts from the garden and destroy them or add them to a hot compost pile.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
The calabash tree (Crescentia cujete) is a small evergreen that grows up to 25 feet tall and produces unusual flowers and fruits. The flowers are greenish yellow with red veins, while the fruit – large, round and hard – hang directly beneath the branches. Read on for more calabash tree facts, including information about how to grow a calabash tree.
Calabash Tree Information
The calabash tree has a broad, irregular crown with wide, spreading branched. The leaves are two to six inches long. Orchids grow in the bark of these trees in the wild. Calabash tree facts indicate that the tree’s flowers, each about two inches wide, are cup shaped. They seem to grow directly from the calabash branches. They only bloom at night and emit a slight odor. By noon of the following day, the flowers wilt and die.
The calabash tree flowers are pollinated by bats during the night. In time, the trees produce the round fruit. These large fruits take six months to ripen. Calabash tree facts make clear that the fruits are not edible to humans but they are used for a variety of ornamental purposes. For example, the shells are used to make musical instruments. Horses, however, are said to crack open the hard shells. They eat the fruit without detrimental effect. Black calabash trees (Amphitecna latifolia) share many of the same characteristics of the calabash and are from the same family. They grow to about the same height, and produce leaves and flowers that resemble those of the calabash. The black calabash fruits, however, are edible. DO NOT confuse the two trees.
How to Grow a Calabash Tree
If you are wondering how to grow a calabash tree, the trees grow from the seeds inside the fruit. The shell of the fruit is surrounded by pulp in which the brown seeds are located. Plant the seeds in almost any type of soil, and be sure to keep the soil moist. The calabash tree, whether a seedling or a mature specimen, cannot tolerate drought.
A calabash tree can only be planted in areas without frost. The tree cannot tolerate even the lightest frost. It thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b through 11. Calabash tree care includes providing regular water to the tree. Be careful if planting a calabash near the sea, as it has no salt tolerance.
Calabash Tree Information
The calabash tree has a broad, irregular crown with wide, spreading branched. The leaves are two to six inches long. Orchids grow in the bark of these trees in the wild. Calabash tree facts indicate that the tree’s flowers, each about two inches wide, are cup shaped. They seem to grow directly from the calabash branches. They only bloom at night and emit a slight odor. By noon of the following day, the flowers wilt and die.
The calabash tree flowers are pollinated by bats during the night. In time, the trees produce the round fruit. These large fruits take six months to ripen. Calabash tree facts make clear that the fruits are not edible to humans but they are used for a variety of ornamental purposes. For example, the shells are used to make musical instruments. Horses, however, are said to crack open the hard shells. They eat the fruit without detrimental effect. Black calabash trees (Amphitecna latifolia) share many of the same characteristics of the calabash and are from the same family. They grow to about the same height, and produce leaves and flowers that resemble those of the calabash. The black calabash fruits, however, are edible. DO NOT confuse the two trees.
How to Grow a Calabash Tree
If you are wondering how to grow a calabash tree, the trees grow from the seeds inside the fruit. The shell of the fruit is surrounded by pulp in which the brown seeds are located. Plant the seeds in almost any type of soil, and be sure to keep the soil moist. The calabash tree, whether a seedling or a mature specimen, cannot tolerate drought.
A calabash tree can only be planted in areas without frost. The tree cannot tolerate even the lightest frost. It thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b through 11. Calabash tree care includes providing regular water to the tree. Be careful if planting a calabash near the sea, as it has no salt tolerance.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Also known as western sand cherry or Bessey cherry, sand cherry (Prunus pumila) is a bushy shrub or small tree that thrives in difficult sites such as sandy river or lake shores, as well as rocky slopes and cliffs. The small, purple-black fruits, which mature in mid-summer after the white springtime flowers have faded, are highly prized by birds and wildlife. It is also one of the parent plants to the hybrid purple-leaf sand cherry. Propagating a sand cherry plant isn’t a difficult task, and there are several effective ways to propagate sand cherry trees. Read on to learn how to propagate a sand cherry for your garden.
Growing Sand Cherry from Cuttings
Take softwood cuttings from a healthy sand cherry plant in early spring. Cut 4- to 6-inch (10-14 cm.) stems, making each cut just below a leaf node. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Fill a small pot with potting mix. Water the potting mix thoroughly and allow it to drain overnight. The following morning, dip the tip of the stem in rooting hormone and plant it in the pot with the leaves above the soil.
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. Check the cutting daily and water lightly if the potting mix is dry. Remove the bag as soon as new growth appears, which indicates the cutting has successfully rooted. Allow the seedlings to remain indoors at least until the following spring, then plant them outdoors when all danger of frost has passed.
Growing Sand Cherry from Seed
Harvest sand cherries when they are fully ripe. Put the cherries in a sieve and rinse them under running water as you squash them with your fingers. Put the mashed sand cherries in a glass jar filled with warm water. A small amount of liquid dish detergent added to the water during the soaking period may promote separation of seeds from pulp. Allow the seeds to remain in the water for no more than four days, then drain the contents through a sieve. The viable seeds should be at the bottom of the jar. Once the seeds are cleaned, plant them in the garden immediately.
If you aren’t ready to plant directly into the garden, place the seeds in a plastic bag with a small amount of moist peat moss and stratify them in the refrigerator at 40 F. (4 C.) for six to eight weeks before planting outdoors. Plant the seeds about 2 inches (5 cm.) deep and at least 12 inches (30 cm.) apart. Plant several in case some don’t germinate. Mark the area so you remember where you planted the seeds. Keep the area well watered.
If it’s too cold to plant the stratified seeds outdoors, you can plant them in celled trays filled with potting mix. Place the trays in filtered or indirect sunlight and keep the soil moist. Transplant the seedlings into a sunny, well-drained spot in your garden when they have at least two sets of leaves. Be sure all danger of frost has passed.
Growing Sand Cherry from Cuttings
Take softwood cuttings from a healthy sand cherry plant in early spring. Cut 4- to 6-inch (10-14 cm.) stems, making each cut just below a leaf node. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Fill a small pot with potting mix. Water the potting mix thoroughly and allow it to drain overnight. The following morning, dip the tip of the stem in rooting hormone and plant it in the pot with the leaves above the soil.
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. Check the cutting daily and water lightly if the potting mix is dry. Remove the bag as soon as new growth appears, which indicates the cutting has successfully rooted. Allow the seedlings to remain indoors at least until the following spring, then plant them outdoors when all danger of frost has passed.
Growing Sand Cherry from Seed
Harvest sand cherries when they are fully ripe. Put the cherries in a sieve and rinse them under running water as you squash them with your fingers. Put the mashed sand cherries in a glass jar filled with warm water. A small amount of liquid dish detergent added to the water during the soaking period may promote separation of seeds from pulp. Allow the seeds to remain in the water for no more than four days, then drain the contents through a sieve. The viable seeds should be at the bottom of the jar. Once the seeds are cleaned, plant them in the garden immediately.
If you aren’t ready to plant directly into the garden, place the seeds in a plastic bag with a small amount of moist peat moss and stratify them in the refrigerator at 40 F. (4 C.) for six to eight weeks before planting outdoors. Plant the seeds about 2 inches (5 cm.) deep and at least 12 inches (30 cm.) apart. Plant several in case some don’t germinate. Mark the area so you remember where you planted the seeds. Keep the area well watered.
If it’s too cold to plant the stratified seeds outdoors, you can plant them in celled trays filled with potting mix. Place the trays in filtered or indirect sunlight and keep the soil moist. Transplant the seedlings into a sunny, well-drained spot in your garden when they have at least two sets of leaves. Be sure all danger of frost has passed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Mulberry is a deciduous, medium to large tree (20-60 feet tall) that is available in fruiting and fruitless varieties. If you currently have a mulberry that fruits, you may be well aware of the mess the fruit can create. Although the fruit is edible, there may be more of it than you can handle with an end result of a driveway that is stained purple and a car that has been bombed by bird, ahem, droppings. With such a nuisance, you may be wondering how to stop a mulberry from fruiting or mulberry fruit tree sterilization.
How to Sterilize Mulberry Trees
Ask any arborist and they will probably tell you that sterilizing mulberry trees is a difficult proposition, if not impossible. Expensive chemicals are required and the potential drift can affect surrounding unprotected trees and bushes. Generally, the results are inconsistent and must be timed perfectly during fruit bloom and in prime temperature conditions for any efficacy.
The best course of action to stop a mulberry from fruiting and preventing the type of mess described above is to plant a male tree or fruitless variety of mulberry. If it’s too late for that and you have a female tree, thinning or pruning the tree to reduce the amount of viable fruit is certainly a thought. You will still get some fruit but between eating some and the reduction of fruit set, you may be able to stay ahead of the untidiness. Really, the only other method to try for preventing mulberry fruit is to use a chemical application. These chemicals can be applied by you or preferably by a licensed tree company.
Chemically Preventing Mulberry Fruit
An attempt can be made sterilizing mulberry trees with the use of such chemicals as Florel Fruit Eliminator. Florel contains ethephon, which will stop fruiting and breaks down into a natural plant hormone, ethylene. It must be applied at full bloom at just the right temperatures (60-95 F./16-32 C.) and will cause fruit to drop prior to setting. All conditions must be optimal, including a lack of disease or insect infestation, sufficient irrigation, excellent drainage and soil conditions. An issue with any of these puts the tree under stress, causing its natural production of ethylene. Too much ethylene will damage the tree, causing defoliation, stem damage and leaf scorch. For this reason, even professionals have a difficult time determining the best time for application.
A professional company may also use a deflowering hormonal solution applied internally as a basal or tree trunk panacea for mulberry fruit tree sterilization. Known as Snipper, this is an acid solution that is micro-injectable and again, has a window of optimum opportunity for use. All hormonal sprays should be applied during flowering before fruit set. This timing is crucial and any derivation will result in wasted time and money.
Other chemicals may be useful for mulberry sterilization. Consult with an arborist or the like for professional grade information. Professional application is likely to be costly, so keep that in mind. If all else fails, consider the removal of the tree (although that costs a pretty penny too!) and replanting of a less disorderly specimen.
How to Sterilize Mulberry Trees
Ask any arborist and they will probably tell you that sterilizing mulberry trees is a difficult proposition, if not impossible. Expensive chemicals are required and the potential drift can affect surrounding unprotected trees and bushes. Generally, the results are inconsistent and must be timed perfectly during fruit bloom and in prime temperature conditions for any efficacy.
The best course of action to stop a mulberry from fruiting and preventing the type of mess described above is to plant a male tree or fruitless variety of mulberry. If it’s too late for that and you have a female tree, thinning or pruning the tree to reduce the amount of viable fruit is certainly a thought. You will still get some fruit but between eating some and the reduction of fruit set, you may be able to stay ahead of the untidiness. Really, the only other method to try for preventing mulberry fruit is to use a chemical application. These chemicals can be applied by you or preferably by a licensed tree company.
Chemically Preventing Mulberry Fruit
An attempt can be made sterilizing mulberry trees with the use of such chemicals as Florel Fruit Eliminator. Florel contains ethephon, which will stop fruiting and breaks down into a natural plant hormone, ethylene. It must be applied at full bloom at just the right temperatures (60-95 F./16-32 C.) and will cause fruit to drop prior to setting. All conditions must be optimal, including a lack of disease or insect infestation, sufficient irrigation, excellent drainage and soil conditions. An issue with any of these puts the tree under stress, causing its natural production of ethylene. Too much ethylene will damage the tree, causing defoliation, stem damage and leaf scorch. For this reason, even professionals have a difficult time determining the best time for application.
A professional company may also use a deflowering hormonal solution applied internally as a basal or tree trunk panacea for mulberry fruit tree sterilization. Known as Snipper, this is an acid solution that is micro-injectable and again, has a window of optimum opportunity for use. All hormonal sprays should be applied during flowering before fruit set. This timing is crucial and any derivation will result in wasted time and money.
Other chemicals may be useful for mulberry sterilization. Consult with an arborist or the like for professional grade information. Professional application is likely to be costly, so keep that in mind. If all else fails, consider the removal of the tree (although that costs a pretty penny too!) and replanting of a less disorderly specimen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Dogwood is a popular ornamental tree with its flowering bracts, elegant foliage, and bright red fruits. These plants are relatively hardy but they do have their Achilles’ heels. We have all heard the fables about how even the smallest can bring down the mighty. This is true with a host of fungal and bacterial diseases of dogwood or tiny insects that may infect or infest your dogwood tree. The issues affecting dogwood trees are too numerous for this writing, but we can cover some of the most common dogwood problems.
Dogwoods need fertile, moist soil with good drainage. They are understory trees and require dappled lighting with protection from the hottest rays of the day. But even plants with good site conditions, annual fertilizer and adequate water may still encounter dogwood tree problems that destroy their health and vigor.
Diseases of Dogwood
Dogwood anthracnose is one of the most common fungal diseases to attack this plant. It starts out with blighted leaves, showing purple margins and tan color around the edges of leaves. Secondary signs may include cankers on twigs and smaller branches. These gradually extend to the trunk of the tree with necrotic weeping areas. Spot anthracnose, septoria leaf spot and powdery mildew are all conditions that affect the leaves. Root rots and canker disease abound and thrive in moist conditions. There are listed fungicides and bacterial agents to combat the various disease issues affecting dogwood trees. Check with your local County Extension office for help in treatment or contact a certified arborist.
Dogwood Tree Pests
Hardly any ornamental tree is without its fans. Dogwood trees have several insects and their larvae that call the tree their home. Significant loss of vigor and illness can result when these tiny marauders invade in quantity. The dogwood borer is the most noteworthy pest of the tree. Larvae live in the cambium layer and their travel and eating damage the flow of nutrients and water. Often branches can die. Numerous scale insects are dogwood tree pests. The dogwood sawfly larvae feed on the foliage and the dogwood club gall midge causes spindle-shaped swelling on twigs. In large colonies, the only treatment is pesticide sprays to prevent loss of health in your tree. Read all the directions carefully and use a targeted formulation.
Other Common Dogwood Problems
Dogwoods do not respond well to drought or flooding. They need fertile soil, so in poor soils they will eventually decline. The foliage may burn or turn reddish in summer when there is insufficient water. Use mulch 3 to 4 inches deep and 3 feet around the trunk to conserve moisture. Just be sure it doesn’t touch the trunk. Speaking of trunks, the tree is susceptible to mechanical injury, which will open the gate to insect invasions or fungal issues. Most dogwood tree problems can be avoided by giving adequate care and choosing healthy dogwood varieties that are suited for your area.
Dogwoods need fertile, moist soil with good drainage. They are understory trees and require dappled lighting with protection from the hottest rays of the day. But even plants with good site conditions, annual fertilizer and adequate water may still encounter dogwood tree problems that destroy their health and vigor.
Diseases of Dogwood
Dogwood anthracnose is one of the most common fungal diseases to attack this plant. It starts out with blighted leaves, showing purple margins and tan color around the edges of leaves. Secondary signs may include cankers on twigs and smaller branches. These gradually extend to the trunk of the tree with necrotic weeping areas. Spot anthracnose, septoria leaf spot and powdery mildew are all conditions that affect the leaves. Root rots and canker disease abound and thrive in moist conditions. There are listed fungicides and bacterial agents to combat the various disease issues affecting dogwood trees. Check with your local County Extension office for help in treatment or contact a certified arborist.
Dogwood Tree Pests
Hardly any ornamental tree is without its fans. Dogwood trees have several insects and their larvae that call the tree their home. Significant loss of vigor and illness can result when these tiny marauders invade in quantity. The dogwood borer is the most noteworthy pest of the tree. Larvae live in the cambium layer and their travel and eating damage the flow of nutrients and water. Often branches can die. Numerous scale insects are dogwood tree pests. The dogwood sawfly larvae feed on the foliage and the dogwood club gall midge causes spindle-shaped swelling on twigs. In large colonies, the only treatment is pesticide sprays to prevent loss of health in your tree. Read all the directions carefully and use a targeted formulation.
Other Common Dogwood Problems
Dogwoods do not respond well to drought or flooding. They need fertile soil, so in poor soils they will eventually decline. The foliage may burn or turn reddish in summer when there is insufficient water. Use mulch 3 to 4 inches deep and 3 feet around the trunk to conserve moisture. Just be sure it doesn’t touch the trunk. Speaking of trunks, the tree is susceptible to mechanical injury, which will open the gate to insect invasions or fungal issues. Most dogwood tree problems can be avoided by giving adequate care and choosing healthy dogwood varieties that are suited for your area.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If your breakfast includes bananas and a cup of joe, you'll have enough nutritional scraps to feed your roses (Rosa spp.) too. Banana fruits and peels, composted first or not, add phosphorus and potassium to rose soil, and coffee grounds provide pinches of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium.
Rosy Dreams
Vibrant, healthy rose bushes fight off diseases and produce the best blossoms, so a gardener does what she can to make her roses strong. You give your roses some of the ingredients for healthy living, like sunlight and air, by selecting a good planting site. Mother nature provides both water and nutrients, but just as you add irrigation when needed, you can supplement nutrients by adding fertilizer to the soil. Consider both coffee grounds and banana peels in that category.
Feeding Soil
When you add compost or fertilizer, you feed the soil, not the rose plant growing in it. Plants produce their own food, taking up nutrients in the soil and converting them into sugars by the magic of photosynthesis. When you add material to the soil, you replace the nutrients your roses have used, providing them with a steady supply. This should be done every month or so throughout the growing season. The three primary nutrients required for rose growth and health are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Between coffee grounds and bananas, you'll add all three to the soil.
Coffee Grounds for Nitrogen
Coffee grounds are 2 percent nitrogen, so from the get-go they increase the nitrogen level of the soil. According to the Oregon State University Extension service, they are an excellent source of nitrogen for composting. Keep the grounds to 25 percent or less of the pile. Rose gardeners can also spread several inches of coffee grounds directly on the rose bed soil. Either work the grounds into the soil or else cover a thin layer with several inches of dried leaves to prevent them from drying out.
Banana Peels
Banana fruit and peels are rich in phosphorus and the peels in potassium as well. Roses need potassium for vigor and phosphorus to bloom, so bananas and roses are a match made in plant heaven. Some gardeners prefer to chop up bananas and compost them in the bin but other simply bury fruit or peels at the base of the plants. If you add uncomposted organic material directly to the soil, it's a good idea to toss in a few tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer at the same time, since it takes nitrogen to break down the material.
Rosy Dreams
Vibrant, healthy rose bushes fight off diseases and produce the best blossoms, so a gardener does what she can to make her roses strong. You give your roses some of the ingredients for healthy living, like sunlight and air, by selecting a good planting site. Mother nature provides both water and nutrients, but just as you add irrigation when needed, you can supplement nutrients by adding fertilizer to the soil. Consider both coffee grounds and banana peels in that category.
Feeding Soil
When you add compost or fertilizer, you feed the soil, not the rose plant growing in it. Plants produce their own food, taking up nutrients in the soil and converting them into sugars by the magic of photosynthesis. When you add material to the soil, you replace the nutrients your roses have used, providing them with a steady supply. This should be done every month or so throughout the growing season. The three primary nutrients required for rose growth and health are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Between coffee grounds and bananas, you'll add all three to the soil.
Coffee Grounds for Nitrogen
Coffee grounds are 2 percent nitrogen, so from the get-go they increase the nitrogen level of the soil. According to the Oregon State University Extension service, they are an excellent source of nitrogen for composting. Keep the grounds to 25 percent or less of the pile. Rose gardeners can also spread several inches of coffee grounds directly on the rose bed soil. Either work the grounds into the soil or else cover a thin layer with several inches of dried leaves to prevent them from drying out.
Banana Peels
Banana fruit and peels are rich in phosphorus and the peels in potassium as well. Roses need potassium for vigor and phosphorus to bloom, so bananas and roses are a match made in plant heaven. Some gardeners prefer to chop up bananas and compost them in the bin but other simply bury fruit or peels at the base of the plants. If you add uncomposted organic material directly to the soil, it's a good idea to toss in a few tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer at the same time, since it takes nitrogen to break down the material.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
You may have seen them in your local produce market – those plump pinkish red fruits with characteristic scars from thorns. These are heat-loving prickly pear fruit. Southern foragers can simply go out into their wild regions and pick the fruit, but when do you harvest prickly pear fruit? Foragers interested in trying the fruits for themselves should read on for a few tips on how to pick prickly pear cactus and what to do with them once you have a bountiful harvest.
When Do You Harvest Prickly Pear Fruit?
Prickly pear fruit is found in warm regions of North America but even northern denizens can get a taste of this unique fruit in specialty markets. Prickly pear fruit is a traditional food of the indigenous population of arid, warm regions. The chubby little fruits are excellent eaten raw, stewed, canned or prepared into preserves but first you have to have a plant for picking prickly pear fruit. Harvesting isn’t difficult, but you need to take some precautions to protect yourself from the long spines and even more insidious glochids.
August is when the fat cactus pads of the prickly pear are adorned with ruby red fruits. Most expert gatherers recommend picking prickly pear fruit with a deep ruby color and no green remaining. These fruits will be sweetest and juiciest with the best flavor and will also remove easily. You should have long sleeves and thick leather gloves to protect yourself from the spines. The tiny, almost invisible glochids are the more dangerous than the large spines. A single brush against the fruit and you may get hundreds of invisible, fine spines imbedded in your skin. Bring along some duct tape just in case this happens. Use it to remove the spines and save yourself a lot of time and irritation.
How to Pick Prickly Pear Cactus
There are a couple of schools of thought on the method used for harvesting prickly pear fruit. Most foragers use a pair of tongs or something similar to simply twist off the fruits. Ripe fruit should twist off easily. Alternatively, it has been suggested that a small butane burner with a wand is the best method. Use the tool to scorch off the pear’s thorns and glochlids. Using a burner makes harvesting prickly pear fruit less fraught with peril, as the lack of spines renders the fruit safe to grab. Always leave a few fruit for wild animals and birds. Place fruit in a basket or bag but try not to layer them too much, crushing the bottom fruit.
Prickly Pear Fruit Harvest Storage
Fruits will store in refrigeration for a couple of days but they are best used fresh. Store in a single layer of your crisper. If you have a bumper crop, you may choose to store them in the freezer. This will break down the fruit but it is still useful to make juice or a preserves. Frozen fruit can be mashed and strained to remove any seeds, skin and stray thorns. The juice will go bad in just a few days so should be used immediately or refrozen. Common uses for a good prickly pear fruit harvest might be as a syrup in desserts, fermented into a delicious vinegar, or even in a tea. The juice also adds interest to many common alcoholic concoctions and enhances meats as a salsa or chutney.
When Do You Harvest Prickly Pear Fruit?
Prickly pear fruit is found in warm regions of North America but even northern denizens can get a taste of this unique fruit in specialty markets. Prickly pear fruit is a traditional food of the indigenous population of arid, warm regions. The chubby little fruits are excellent eaten raw, stewed, canned or prepared into preserves but first you have to have a plant for picking prickly pear fruit. Harvesting isn’t difficult, but you need to take some precautions to protect yourself from the long spines and even more insidious glochids.
August is when the fat cactus pads of the prickly pear are adorned with ruby red fruits. Most expert gatherers recommend picking prickly pear fruit with a deep ruby color and no green remaining. These fruits will be sweetest and juiciest with the best flavor and will also remove easily. You should have long sleeves and thick leather gloves to protect yourself from the spines. The tiny, almost invisible glochids are the more dangerous than the large spines. A single brush against the fruit and you may get hundreds of invisible, fine spines imbedded in your skin. Bring along some duct tape just in case this happens. Use it to remove the spines and save yourself a lot of time and irritation.
How to Pick Prickly Pear Cactus
There are a couple of schools of thought on the method used for harvesting prickly pear fruit. Most foragers use a pair of tongs or something similar to simply twist off the fruits. Ripe fruit should twist off easily. Alternatively, it has been suggested that a small butane burner with a wand is the best method. Use the tool to scorch off the pear’s thorns and glochlids. Using a burner makes harvesting prickly pear fruit less fraught with peril, as the lack of spines renders the fruit safe to grab. Always leave a few fruit for wild animals and birds. Place fruit in a basket or bag but try not to layer them too much, crushing the bottom fruit.
Prickly Pear Fruit Harvest Storage
Fruits will store in refrigeration for a couple of days but they are best used fresh. Store in a single layer of your crisper. If you have a bumper crop, you may choose to store them in the freezer. This will break down the fruit but it is still useful to make juice or a preserves. Frozen fruit can be mashed and strained to remove any seeds, skin and stray thorns. The juice will go bad in just a few days so should be used immediately or refrozen. Common uses for a good prickly pear fruit harvest might be as a syrup in desserts, fermented into a delicious vinegar, or even in a tea. The juice also adds interest to many common alcoholic concoctions and enhances meats as a salsa or chutney.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The kitchen herb garden, or potager, as it’s known in France, is traditionally a small section of the garden, or even a separate garden, where culinary and healing herb plants are grown along with fruits, veggies and ornamentals. Usually, these herb gardens are carefully laid out to provide easy access, but also aesthetic value. Read more to learn about plants with healing effects and designing a medicinal herb garden.
Using Medicinal Herbs in Gardens
For centuries, in almost every culture, the herb garden has held a special place in the garden. Long before walk-in clinics and huge medical complexes, people had to grow and prepare their own medicines. Healing herb plants were often grown in sacred gardens that not only provided healing from the plants themselves, but also to be aesthetically pleasing to the senses.
Herbs were arranged by size and texture, often in geometric patterns, along with fruit and vegetable espaliers. These ancient herb gardens ranged from simple cottage gardens to the formal knot gardens of England. Most home gardeners don’t have the room or the time to create and maintain a formal knot garden in their yard. However, you can incorporate healing herb plants into your existing landscape and flower beds. The next section will cover common healing herb uses, as well as the role they can play in the landscape.
Plants with Healing Effects
Here are some commonly used healing herb plants:
Lavender
Who can resist the relaxing scent and quaint charm of a Lavender border? Hardy in zones 5-9, the bluish hue of Lavender’s leaves and pale purple flowers are an excellent candidate for defining the lines between lawn and garden. A lavender bordered sidewalk or path has an inviting feel and soothing scent. Lavender is used medicinally to cure headaches, insomnia, relieve tension and as a natural insect repellent. As a growing plant in the garden, it gives off a beautiful calming scent and can be trimmed to promote bushier growth or shaped to form knots or topiaries. Use leaves and flowers in teas and lemonade.
Thyme, Viola, Chamomile
Use low growing common healing herbs like Thyme, Violas or Chamomile for useful and attractive ground over. Thyme looks and smells wondrous, cascading over retaining walls or nestled between pavers for a natural looking garden path in full sun to part shade. Hardy in zones 4-11, Thyme is used to treat coughs, colds, congestion, headaches, insomnia and cuts. Thyme is also used in oral and skin care. Violas are hardy in zones 2-9 and seem happy to grow anywhere from full sun-full shade. With most Violas only reaching 6” tall, they make excellent, consistently blooming ground overs. The leaves and flowers of Violas are used to treat eczema, acne, swollen glands, cold symptoms, migraines and headaches, asthma and arthritic pain. Chamomile is an annual that will reseed itself in most zones. The dainty white flowers and light green ferny foliage, make low growing chamomile a beautiful ground over or border for cottage gardens. Chamomile is used to treat insomnia, headaches, tension, anxiety, and also used for skin and hair care.
Lemon Balm, Feverfew, Sage
If you are looking for medium height accent plants with medicinal value, look no further than Lemon Balm, Feverfew and Sage. Lemon Balm is hardy in zones 4-9 and is mound forming, growing to about 12”-18” high. Lemon Balm is used to treat anxiety, insomnia, cuts and bruises, insect bites and upset stomachs. Feverfew is a 2-foot tall perennial in zones 5-9 covered with dainty daisy-like flowers in full sun- part shade. Feverfew flowers are used for headaches and migraines, arthritis pain and skin irritations. Also growing about 2 feet tall and hardy in zones 4-9, Sage makes a lovely mid-sized landscape accent plant for full sun. Sage is used for colds and sore throats, dental problems, cuts, skin care, hair care and to relieve to symptoms of PMS and menopause. Sage is also a natural deodorant and insect repellent.
Dill and Rosemary
For healing herb plants that add a splash of drama to the landscape, try Mammoth Dill or Rosemary. Mammoth Dill is a tall annual that will reseed itself profusely. The feathery foliage and lime green umbel flowers have quite a stunning effect at the back of a flower bed. Dill flowers and foliage are used to settle the stomach and treat muscle cramps. Rosemary comes in upright or creeping forms. In zones 8-10, it is a sun-loving evergreen. In any zone, its dark green, pine-like foliage makes a beautiful accent. Rosemary is used medicinally to treat headaches, arthritis, coughs, colds, congestion, bronchitis and baldness. Rosemary is also used to increase memory and focus, improve circulation and as a natural insect repellent. You will find Rosemary in many hair and skin care products due to its regenerative effects on hair and skin.
Using Medicinal Herbs in Gardens
For centuries, in almost every culture, the herb garden has held a special place in the garden. Long before walk-in clinics and huge medical complexes, people had to grow and prepare their own medicines. Healing herb plants were often grown in sacred gardens that not only provided healing from the plants themselves, but also to be aesthetically pleasing to the senses.
Herbs were arranged by size and texture, often in geometric patterns, along with fruit and vegetable espaliers. These ancient herb gardens ranged from simple cottage gardens to the formal knot gardens of England. Most home gardeners don’t have the room or the time to create and maintain a formal knot garden in their yard. However, you can incorporate healing herb plants into your existing landscape and flower beds. The next section will cover common healing herb uses, as well as the role they can play in the landscape.
Plants with Healing Effects
Here are some commonly used healing herb plants:
Lavender
Who can resist the relaxing scent and quaint charm of a Lavender border? Hardy in zones 5-9, the bluish hue of Lavender’s leaves and pale purple flowers are an excellent candidate for defining the lines between lawn and garden. A lavender bordered sidewalk or path has an inviting feel and soothing scent. Lavender is used medicinally to cure headaches, insomnia, relieve tension and as a natural insect repellent. As a growing plant in the garden, it gives off a beautiful calming scent and can be trimmed to promote bushier growth or shaped to form knots or topiaries. Use leaves and flowers in teas and lemonade.
Thyme, Viola, Chamomile
Use low growing common healing herbs like Thyme, Violas or Chamomile for useful and attractive ground over. Thyme looks and smells wondrous, cascading over retaining walls or nestled between pavers for a natural looking garden path in full sun to part shade. Hardy in zones 4-11, Thyme is used to treat coughs, colds, congestion, headaches, insomnia and cuts. Thyme is also used in oral and skin care. Violas are hardy in zones 2-9 and seem happy to grow anywhere from full sun-full shade. With most Violas only reaching 6” tall, they make excellent, consistently blooming ground overs. The leaves and flowers of Violas are used to treat eczema, acne, swollen glands, cold symptoms, migraines and headaches, asthma and arthritic pain. Chamomile is an annual that will reseed itself in most zones. The dainty white flowers and light green ferny foliage, make low growing chamomile a beautiful ground over or border for cottage gardens. Chamomile is used to treat insomnia, headaches, tension, anxiety, and also used for skin and hair care.
Lemon Balm, Feverfew, Sage
If you are looking for medium height accent plants with medicinal value, look no further than Lemon Balm, Feverfew and Sage. Lemon Balm is hardy in zones 4-9 and is mound forming, growing to about 12”-18” high. Lemon Balm is used to treat anxiety, insomnia, cuts and bruises, insect bites and upset stomachs. Feverfew is a 2-foot tall perennial in zones 5-9 covered with dainty daisy-like flowers in full sun- part shade. Feverfew flowers are used for headaches and migraines, arthritis pain and skin irritations. Also growing about 2 feet tall and hardy in zones 4-9, Sage makes a lovely mid-sized landscape accent plant for full sun. Sage is used for colds and sore throats, dental problems, cuts, skin care, hair care and to relieve to symptoms of PMS and menopause. Sage is also a natural deodorant and insect repellent.
Dill and Rosemary
For healing herb plants that add a splash of drama to the landscape, try Mammoth Dill or Rosemary. Mammoth Dill is a tall annual that will reseed itself profusely. The feathery foliage and lime green umbel flowers have quite a stunning effect at the back of a flower bed. Dill flowers and foliage are used to settle the stomach and treat muscle cramps. Rosemary comes in upright or creeping forms. In zones 8-10, it is a sun-loving evergreen. In any zone, its dark green, pine-like foliage makes a beautiful accent. Rosemary is used medicinally to treat headaches, arthritis, coughs, colds, congestion, bronchitis and baldness. Rosemary is also used to increase memory and focus, improve circulation and as a natural insect repellent. You will find Rosemary in many hair and skin care products due to its regenerative effects on hair and skin.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Scented geraniums (Pelargoniums) are tender perennials, available in delightful scents like spice, mint, various fruits and rose. If you love scented geraniums, you can easily multiply your plants by rooting pelargonium cuttings. Read on to learn more.
Propagating Scented Geraniums
Propagating scented geraniums is surprisingly easy and requires very little expense and no fancy equipment. In fact, some gardeners have good luck by simply breaking off a stem and planting it in the same pot with the parent plant. However, if you want to be more deliberate with a higher chance of success, here are simple steps for growing scented geraniums from cuttings.
How to Root Scented Geranium Cuttings
Although these adaptable plants may take root any time after spring, late summer is the optimum time for rooting pelargonium cuttings. Cut a stem from a healthy growing plant using a sharp, sterile knife. Make the cut just below a leaf joint. Remove all the leaves except the top two. Also, remove any buds and flowers from the stem. Get a small pot with a drainage hole. A 3-inch pot is fine for a single cutting, while a 4- to 6-inch pot will hold four or five cuttings. Fill the pot with regular potting mix or seed starter. Avoid mixes with added fertilizer.
Water the potting mix well, then set it aside to drain until the mix is evenly moist but not soggy or dripping wet. Plant the cutting in the damp potting mix. Be sure the top leaves are above the soil. Don’t bother with rooting hormone; it isn’t necessary. Press the potting soil lightly to remove air bubbles, but don’t compress it. Cover the pot lightly with plastic, then poke several holes in the plastic to provide air circulation. (Plastic is optional, but the greenhouse environment may speed rooting). Insert a couple of drinking straws or chopsticks to hold the plastic above the leaves. Set the pot in indirect light. Normal room temperatures are fine. You can place the pot outdoors if temperatures aren’t too hot and sunlight isn’t intense. Water the potting mix lightly after about a week, or when it feels dry. Watering from the bottom is preferable. Remove the plastic for a few hours if you notice water drops. Too much moisture will rot the cuttings. Remove the plastic permanently and transplant the cuttings into individual pots when new growth appears, which indicates the cuttings have rooted. This process may take several days or a few weeks.
Rooting Scented Geraniums in Water
Most gardeners find that rooting Pelargonium cuttings in potting mix is more dependable, but you may have good luck rooting scented geraniums in water. Here’s how: Fill a jar about one-third with room temperature water. Place a scented geranium cutting in the water. Ensure the bottom one-third of the cutting is submerged. Place the jar in a warm spot, such as a sunny window. Avoid hot, direct sunlight, which will cook the cutting. Watch for roots to develop in about a month. Then, plant the rooted cutting in a pot filled with regular potting mix.
Propagating Scented Geraniums
Propagating scented geraniums is surprisingly easy and requires very little expense and no fancy equipment. In fact, some gardeners have good luck by simply breaking off a stem and planting it in the same pot with the parent plant. However, if you want to be more deliberate with a higher chance of success, here are simple steps for growing scented geraniums from cuttings.
How to Root Scented Geranium Cuttings
Although these adaptable plants may take root any time after spring, late summer is the optimum time for rooting pelargonium cuttings. Cut a stem from a healthy growing plant using a sharp, sterile knife. Make the cut just below a leaf joint. Remove all the leaves except the top two. Also, remove any buds and flowers from the stem. Get a small pot with a drainage hole. A 3-inch pot is fine for a single cutting, while a 4- to 6-inch pot will hold four or five cuttings. Fill the pot with regular potting mix or seed starter. Avoid mixes with added fertilizer.
Water the potting mix well, then set it aside to drain until the mix is evenly moist but not soggy or dripping wet. Plant the cutting in the damp potting mix. Be sure the top leaves are above the soil. Don’t bother with rooting hormone; it isn’t necessary. Press the potting soil lightly to remove air bubbles, but don’t compress it. Cover the pot lightly with plastic, then poke several holes in the plastic to provide air circulation. (Plastic is optional, but the greenhouse environment may speed rooting). Insert a couple of drinking straws or chopsticks to hold the plastic above the leaves. Set the pot in indirect light. Normal room temperatures are fine. You can place the pot outdoors if temperatures aren’t too hot and sunlight isn’t intense. Water the potting mix lightly after about a week, or when it feels dry. Watering from the bottom is preferable. Remove the plastic for a few hours if you notice water drops. Too much moisture will rot the cuttings. Remove the plastic permanently and transplant the cuttings into individual pots when new growth appears, which indicates the cuttings have rooted. This process may take several days or a few weeks.
Rooting Scented Geraniums in Water
Most gardeners find that rooting Pelargonium cuttings in potting mix is more dependable, but you may have good luck rooting scented geraniums in water. Here’s how: Fill a jar about one-third with room temperature water. Place a scented geranium cutting in the water. Ensure the bottom one-third of the cutting is submerged. Place the jar in a warm spot, such as a sunny window. Avoid hot, direct sunlight, which will cook the cutting. Watch for roots to develop in about a month. Then, plant the rooted cutting in a pot filled with regular potting mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
There are a number of reasons to grow your own produce. Maybe you want to have control of how your food is grown, organically, with no chemicals. Or maybe you find it less expensive to grow your own fruits and veggies. Even if you have a metaphorical black thumb, the following article fulfills all three topics. How about regrowing garlic chives? Growing garlic chives in water without soil really couldn’t be easier. Read on to find out how to regrow garlic chives.
How to Regrow Garlic Chives
Growing garlic chives in water couldn’t be simpler. Simply take an unpeeled garlic clove and plunk it in a shallow glass or dish. Cover the clove partially with water. Don’t submerge the entire clove or it will rot. If you select organically grown garlic, then you will be regrowing organic garlic chives. This can save you a bunch of money since organics can be pricey.
Also, if you happen upon an old bit of garlic, often the cloves have begun to sprout. Don’t throw them out. Put them in a bit of water as above and, in no time, you will have delicious garlic scapes. Roots will be seen growing in a few days and shoots soon thereafter. Growing garlic chives without soil is that easy! Once green stems have formed, you can use the garlic chives. Just snip the green ends as needed to add to eggs, as a tasty garnish, or in anything you want a kick of mild garlic flavor.
How to Regrow Garlic Chives
Growing garlic chives in water couldn’t be simpler. Simply take an unpeeled garlic clove and plunk it in a shallow glass or dish. Cover the clove partially with water. Don’t submerge the entire clove or it will rot. If you select organically grown garlic, then you will be regrowing organic garlic chives. This can save you a bunch of money since organics can be pricey.
Also, if you happen upon an old bit of garlic, often the cloves have begun to sprout. Don’t throw them out. Put them in a bit of water as above and, in no time, you will have delicious garlic scapes. Roots will be seen growing in a few days and shoots soon thereafter. Growing garlic chives without soil is that easy! Once green stems have formed, you can use the garlic chives. Just snip the green ends as needed to add to eggs, as a tasty garnish, or in anything you want a kick of mild garlic flavor.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Maybe you’ve seen dragon fruits for sale at your local grocery store. The red or yellow collection of layered scales looks almost like an exotic artichoke. Inside, however, is a sweet mass of white pulp and tiny, crunchy seeds. If you want to grow dragon fruit at home, you’ll be rewarded not only with fruit, but also with an impressive, branching cactus vine and brilliant, night-blooming flowers. Keep reading to learn how to grow dragon fruit.
Pitahaya Information
Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus), also known as pitahaya, is native to Central and South America and needs year-round heat. It can tolerate a brief frost and will recover quickly from any freeze damage, but prolonged exposure to below-freezing temperatures will kill it. It can tolerate heat up to 104 F. (40 C.). Although it is a cactus, it requires a relatively high amount of water. Dragon fruit trees are vining, and need something to climb. They are also heavy – a mature plant can reach 25 feet (7.6 m.) and several hundred pounds. Bear this in mind when building your trellis. The best choice is strong wooden beams. A decent amount of pruning and tying is necessary in training it to follow the trellis, but dragon fruit trees are fast growing and very tolerant of pruning.
How to Grow Dragon Fruit
Dragon fruit trees can be started from seeds, but it may take as long as seven years for the plant to produce fruit. Because of this, the much more popular alternative is growing dragon fruit from a cutting of an already mature plant. This method could produce fruit in as little as 6 months. To propagate, cut a full segment from a mature plant. This may be anywhere from 6-15 inches (12-38 cm.). Make a slanted cut in the open end and treat it with fungicide. Then allow it to “cure” in a dry, shady place for a week, letting the open cut dry and heal. After that, you can plant it directly in the ground. You may get better results, however, if you first plant it in a pot and let it establish a good root system for 4-6 months first before transplanting.
Pitahaya Information
Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus), also known as pitahaya, is native to Central and South America and needs year-round heat. It can tolerate a brief frost and will recover quickly from any freeze damage, but prolonged exposure to below-freezing temperatures will kill it. It can tolerate heat up to 104 F. (40 C.). Although it is a cactus, it requires a relatively high amount of water. Dragon fruit trees are vining, and need something to climb. They are also heavy – a mature plant can reach 25 feet (7.6 m.) and several hundred pounds. Bear this in mind when building your trellis. The best choice is strong wooden beams. A decent amount of pruning and tying is necessary in training it to follow the trellis, but dragon fruit trees are fast growing and very tolerant of pruning.
How to Grow Dragon Fruit
Dragon fruit trees can be started from seeds, but it may take as long as seven years for the plant to produce fruit. Because of this, the much more popular alternative is growing dragon fruit from a cutting of an already mature plant. This method could produce fruit in as little as 6 months. To propagate, cut a full segment from a mature plant. This may be anywhere from 6-15 inches (12-38 cm.). Make a slanted cut in the open end and treat it with fungicide. Then allow it to “cure” in a dry, shady place for a week, letting the open cut dry and heal. After that, you can plant it directly in the ground. You may get better results, however, if you first plant it in a pot and let it establish a good root system for 4-6 months first before transplanting.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
A greenhouse is not only the perfect environment for many plants, it can also act as a safe haven for pests such as mice. With the warmth and coziness of the greenhouse -- along with potting soil, growing fruits, seeds and plant debris -- mice who discover it find easy food and lodging. Incorporate several control measures so your greenhouse does not become the next bed and breakfast for the local mouse population.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Powdery mildew is a common problem in areas that have high humidity. It can affect almost any type of plant, appearing on leaves, flowers, fruits and vegetables. A white or gray powder coats the surface of the plant. If left untreated, it can turn more severe, causing leaves to turn yellow or brown. Many people look to a homemade cure for powdery mildew before turning to fungicides. However, finding a powdery mildew homemade preventer is preferable.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew
The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew
When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew
The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew
When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Gummy stem blight is a fungal disease of melons, cucumbers and other cucurbits. It is a contagious disease which can spread across a field of fruits. The fungus damages the tissues of the stem at all stages of development. Stem blight treatment must start before you even plant the seeds to be entirely effective. Find out what is gummy stem blight so you can prevent this problem in your vegetable garden. What is Gummy Stem Blight Disease? Gummy stem blight fungus is most active during periods of warm, wet weather. The spores of the fungus can spread in soil or by air. The fungus will overwinter in milder climates in soil and plant debris. The leaves will get necrotic areas of dead tissue that turn brown and have a darker halo. The stems and fruit will show black, soft spots or large brown lesions that are bordered by black. The dark coloring of these lesions also lends the disease the name of black rot fungus.
Black Rot Fungus Characteristics
Stem blight forms when seeds or sites are previously infected with the fungal spores. When conditions are 85 percent humid or wet and warm, with temperatures averaging in the 60’s, (16-21 C.), the fungal spores bloom. You should start treating black rot fungus at the first signs of the disease. Unfortunately, the first signs vary dependent upon plant species. Many get water spotting on the foliage or stems may ooze black or brown gummy beads of fluid. It is difficult to identify these early signs of gummy stem blight, which is why preparation of the seedbed, purchasing resistant seeds and rotating crops are important prequels to stem blight treatment. Ultimately, plants affected by this disease will bear rotten fruits, which are unmistakable and inedible.
Prevention of Gummy Stem Blight
The first stages of a disease free cucurbit crop are preparation and rotation. Never plant cucumbers, melons or other susceptible plants in the same area as the previous season’s crop. The plant debris, and even seeds, left over in the soil will harbor the spores of black rot fungus. Careful preparation of soil prior to planting removes all old organic matter. Use seeds from a reputable seed company that has a history of fungus-free seeds. Since the disease can manifest even on seedlings, inspect any that you have purchased from a nursery prior to purchase and planting. Gummy stem blight signs on seedlings are brown lesions and dry leaf edges. Do not plant suspect specimens.
Treating Black Rot Fungus
In most cases, removal of old plant debris, rotation and resistant species will prevent the appearance of gummy stem blight. In climates with warm, moist bloom conditions, the fungal spores are carried on the wind and you may have to combat the disease even if you took preventative steps. The most common method is the use of fungicides as a stem blight treatment. Dusts or sprays of fungicides useful for preventing and combating powdery or downy mildew have been shown to be effective against gummy stem blight disease.
Black Rot Fungus Characteristics
Stem blight forms when seeds or sites are previously infected with the fungal spores. When conditions are 85 percent humid or wet and warm, with temperatures averaging in the 60’s, (16-21 C.), the fungal spores bloom. You should start treating black rot fungus at the first signs of the disease. Unfortunately, the first signs vary dependent upon plant species. Many get water spotting on the foliage or stems may ooze black or brown gummy beads of fluid. It is difficult to identify these early signs of gummy stem blight, which is why preparation of the seedbed, purchasing resistant seeds and rotating crops are important prequels to stem blight treatment. Ultimately, plants affected by this disease will bear rotten fruits, which are unmistakable and inedible.
Prevention of Gummy Stem Blight
The first stages of a disease free cucurbit crop are preparation and rotation. Never plant cucumbers, melons or other susceptible plants in the same area as the previous season’s crop. The plant debris, and even seeds, left over in the soil will harbor the spores of black rot fungus. Careful preparation of soil prior to planting removes all old organic matter. Use seeds from a reputable seed company that has a history of fungus-free seeds. Since the disease can manifest even on seedlings, inspect any that you have purchased from a nursery prior to purchase and planting. Gummy stem blight signs on seedlings are brown lesions and dry leaf edges. Do not plant suspect specimens.
Treating Black Rot Fungus
In most cases, removal of old plant debris, rotation and resistant species will prevent the appearance of gummy stem blight. In climates with warm, moist bloom conditions, the fungal spores are carried on the wind and you may have to combat the disease even if you took preventative steps. The most common method is the use of fungicides as a stem blight treatment. Dusts or sprays of fungicides useful for preventing and combating powdery or downy mildew have been shown to be effective against gummy stem blight disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Alternaria leaf spot in the garden is a real problem for growers of brassicas, but it also makes life miserable for tomato and potato growers, causing plaque-like spots on leaves and fruits. Treating alternaria can be difficult, so many gardeners do what they can to prevent this fungus from getting a toe-hold in their plots. Let’s learn more on what is alternaria and how to treat this gardener’s nightmare. What is Alternaria? The fungal pathogens in the genus Alternaria can be devastating to plants year after year.
The spores overwinter on old plant debris and attach themselves to seeds, making alternaria leaf spot especially tricky to completely eliminate if you save your own seeds. Garden vegetables are common targets of these wind-blown spores, but alternaria is not discriminatory in the plants it attacks — apples, citrus, ornamentals and weeds have been known to develop leaf spots caused by this fungus. Alternaria symptoms once infection begins include small, dark, circular spots that regularly reach ½ inch in diameter. As they spread, alternaria leaf spots may change in color from black to tan or gray, with a yellow halo around the outside. Because spot development is heavily influenced by the environment, there are frequently noticeable concentric rings that spread from the initial point of infection. Sporulation causes these spots to develop a fuzzy texture. Some plants tolerate alternaria spots better than others, but as these spots increase on tissues, leaves may wilt or drop, leading to sunburned crops or weak plants. Fruits and vegetable surfaces can be infected with alternaria spots as well, the lesions making them unsightly and unmarketable.
Because alternaria can invade tissues invisibly, eating spot-covered produce is not recommended. How to Treat Alternaria Treatment for alternaria requires fungicide to be sprayed directly on infected plants, as well as improvements in sanitation and crop rotation to prevent future outbreaks. Organic gardeners are limited to sprays of captan or copper fungicides, making control much more challenging. Conventional gardeners can use chlorothanil, fludioxinil, imazalil, iprodine, maneb, mancozeb or thiram on plants listed on the label of their chemical of choice, but should still strive for prevention in areas with known alternaria pathogens. Mulch can help to slow the spread of alternaria spores already in the soil when applied immediately after planting. Experiments at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station showed that mulched kale crops experienced fewer and less severe problems with alternaria leaf spot than the control plants, with straw mulches significantly more successful at suppression than black plastic or biodegradable plastic mulches. The straw-mulched plants also grew much taller than other plants in the experiment.
Crop rotation is vital to preventing alternaria fungal spores from germinating – although the many alternaria fungal diseases look similar, the fungi themselves are often very specialized in the type of plant they will attack; gardens on four year rotations can avoid alternaria building in the soil. Cleaning up fallen leaves and spent plants as soon as possible will also limit the number of spores in the soil. Healthy, well-spaced plants tend to suffer less severe damage from alternaria than their overly-stressed kin.
The spores overwinter on old plant debris and attach themselves to seeds, making alternaria leaf spot especially tricky to completely eliminate if you save your own seeds. Garden vegetables are common targets of these wind-blown spores, but alternaria is not discriminatory in the plants it attacks — apples, citrus, ornamentals and weeds have been known to develop leaf spots caused by this fungus. Alternaria symptoms once infection begins include small, dark, circular spots that regularly reach ½ inch in diameter. As they spread, alternaria leaf spots may change in color from black to tan or gray, with a yellow halo around the outside. Because spot development is heavily influenced by the environment, there are frequently noticeable concentric rings that spread from the initial point of infection. Sporulation causes these spots to develop a fuzzy texture. Some plants tolerate alternaria spots better than others, but as these spots increase on tissues, leaves may wilt or drop, leading to sunburned crops or weak plants. Fruits and vegetable surfaces can be infected with alternaria spots as well, the lesions making them unsightly and unmarketable.
Because alternaria can invade tissues invisibly, eating spot-covered produce is not recommended. How to Treat Alternaria Treatment for alternaria requires fungicide to be sprayed directly on infected plants, as well as improvements in sanitation and crop rotation to prevent future outbreaks. Organic gardeners are limited to sprays of captan or copper fungicides, making control much more challenging. Conventional gardeners can use chlorothanil, fludioxinil, imazalil, iprodine, maneb, mancozeb or thiram on plants listed on the label of their chemical of choice, but should still strive for prevention in areas with known alternaria pathogens. Mulch can help to slow the spread of alternaria spores already in the soil when applied immediately after planting. Experiments at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station showed that mulched kale crops experienced fewer and less severe problems with alternaria leaf spot than the control plants, with straw mulches significantly more successful at suppression than black plastic or biodegradable plastic mulches. The straw-mulched plants also grew much taller than other plants in the experiment.
Crop rotation is vital to preventing alternaria fungal spores from germinating – although the many alternaria fungal diseases look similar, the fungi themselves are often very specialized in the type of plant they will attack; gardens on four year rotations can avoid alternaria building in the soil. Cleaning up fallen leaves and spent plants as soon as possible will also limit the number of spores in the soil. Healthy, well-spaced plants tend to suffer less severe damage from alternaria than their overly-stressed kin.
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