文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月19日
Also known as Chinese cabbage, mustard cabbage or pak choi, pechay is a native of the Orient. This leafy green is tolerant of many soil types and temperature zones, requiring little more than full sun. Quick growers, pechay leaves are ready for harvest in as little as one month. Pechay plants require little space. In fact, if you have room for one or more 6-inch pots, you can grow pechay.
Step 1
Fill a seed starter tray ¾ full with perlite. Dampen the perlite with water from a watering can.
Step 2
Lay one pechay seed on top of the perlite, in the center of each cell. Sprinkle peat moss over each seed, filling the remainder of the seed starter tray.
Step 3
Cover the seed tray with a clear plastic lid or piece of plastic wrap. Place the seed tray in an undisturbed area that receives bright, filtered sunlight.
Step 4
Check the pechay seeds daily for signs of germination, which can happen in as little as two to three days. Remove the plastic immediately when you see green shoots poking through the perlite and peat moss.
Step 5
Continue to provide the pechay seeds with filtered sunlight and damp growing medium for the first 10 days. Dampening the peat moss and perlite with water from a spray bottle should suffice. A light misting is all that is necessary. The growing medium should be moist not saturated.
Step 6
Transplant the pechay into 6-inch pots filled with organic potting soil once they reach 10 days old. Keep the soil moist at all times and continue to provide bright, filtered sunlight. Harvest the pechay when the plants are 30 days old by snipping the stems at the soil level with a pair of scissors.
Step 1
Fill a seed starter tray ¾ full with perlite. Dampen the perlite with water from a watering can.
Step 2
Lay one pechay seed on top of the perlite, in the center of each cell. Sprinkle peat moss over each seed, filling the remainder of the seed starter tray.
Step 3
Cover the seed tray with a clear plastic lid or piece of plastic wrap. Place the seed tray in an undisturbed area that receives bright, filtered sunlight.
Step 4
Check the pechay seeds daily for signs of germination, which can happen in as little as two to three days. Remove the plastic immediately when you see green shoots poking through the perlite and peat moss.
Step 5
Continue to provide the pechay seeds with filtered sunlight and damp growing medium for the first 10 days. Dampening the peat moss and perlite with water from a spray bottle should suffice. A light misting is all that is necessary. The growing medium should be moist not saturated.
Step 6
Transplant the pechay into 6-inch pots filled with organic potting soil once they reach 10 days old. Keep the soil moist at all times and continue to provide bright, filtered sunlight. Harvest the pechay when the plants are 30 days old by snipping the stems at the soil level with a pair of scissors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月19日
Bell peppers are technically a fruit, but are usually referred to as a vegetable. Peppers are in the same family as eggplants and tomatoes, and range in color from yellow and orange to red and green. Green peppers are the least ripe, but are still edible. If you want to ripen your peppers faster, there are tricks you can use both in the garden and in the home.
Step 1
Keep the peppers on the vine as long as possible to promote ripening. The nutrients from the soil as well as the warm weather outdoors helps the fruit ripen faster than prematurely picked peppers. Peppers are ready to be picked by the time they reach 3 1/2 inches long. Green peppers are perfectly ripe, but more bitter than their riper, red counterparts are.
Step 2
Pair a picked less-ripe pepper and a tomato together to hasten the ripening process. Put the two vegetables together in a paper bag and close the bag. Tomatoes emit a gas called ethylene; the gas helps the pepper and any other produce placed in the bag, ripen faster.
Step 3
Place peppers in a sunny window or warm room to help them ripen more efficiently. Cooler temperatures slow ripening, but when the mercury climbs, the peppers will ripen quickly. Keep the indoor temperature above 55 degrees Fahrenheit to promote good pepper quality. Ripening flourishes above 60 F, but compromises the quality once the thermometer drops into the 50s.
Step 1
Keep the peppers on the vine as long as possible to promote ripening. The nutrients from the soil as well as the warm weather outdoors helps the fruit ripen faster than prematurely picked peppers. Peppers are ready to be picked by the time they reach 3 1/2 inches long. Green peppers are perfectly ripe, but more bitter than their riper, red counterparts are.
Step 2
Pair a picked less-ripe pepper and a tomato together to hasten the ripening process. Put the two vegetables together in a paper bag and close the bag. Tomatoes emit a gas called ethylene; the gas helps the pepper and any other produce placed in the bag, ripen faster.
Step 3
Place peppers in a sunny window or warm room to help them ripen more efficiently. Cooler temperatures slow ripening, but when the mercury climbs, the peppers will ripen quickly. Keep the indoor temperature above 55 degrees Fahrenheit to promote good pepper quality. Ripening flourishes above 60 F, but compromises the quality once the thermometer drops into the 50s.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
Pepperoncini peppers belong to the mild hot pepper group of of pepper plants. The peppers are served fresh, cooked or pickled. Pepperoncinis are typically used in the yellow-green stage. You can leave them on the plant until they develop an orange-red color, but pepperoncini aren't typically ripened to the full stage. Picking the peppers during the yellow-green period results in a crisp pepper that withstands pickling well and retains the characteristic flavor and texture of the pepperoncini.
Step 1
Inspect the color and skin condition of the pepper. Harvest the peppers when they are evenly yellow-green in color and when the skin has become glossy. Dull-skinned pepperoncini haven't ripened sufficiently.
Step 2
Press lightly on the pepperoncini. Harvest those that have developed firm flesh and avoid those that are thin or flimsy.
Step 3
Cut the ripe pepperoncini from the plant with shears, leaving 1/2 inch of the stem attached. Don't pull the pepper off the plant, as this damages the plant and the pepper.
Step 4
Place the pepperoncinis in a plastic storage bag or container. Store the peppers in the vegetable crisper drawer of the refrigerator for one to three weeks before using or preparing them for long term storage.
Step 1
Inspect the color and skin condition of the pepper. Harvest the peppers when they are evenly yellow-green in color and when the skin has become glossy. Dull-skinned pepperoncini haven't ripened sufficiently.
Step 2
Press lightly on the pepperoncini. Harvest those that have developed firm flesh and avoid those that are thin or flimsy.
Step 3
Cut the ripe pepperoncini from the plant with shears, leaving 1/2 inch of the stem attached. Don't pull the pepper off the plant, as this damages the plant and the pepper.
Step 4
Place the pepperoncinis in a plastic storage bag or container. Store the peppers in the vegetable crisper drawer of the refrigerator for one to three weeks before using or preparing them for long term storage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Broccoli is a healthy green vegetable whose reputation often makes it out to be scarier than it is. A flexible vegetable, it can be served raw, steamed, baked into a casserole or stir-fried; the possibilities are nearly endless, and planting some in the backyard can mean added freshness and taste. Because of a relatively short growing period, some areas can support more than one broccoli crop.
Types
Different varieties of broccoli have different growing times, but most are around 60 days from planting in the garden to harvesting the broccoli. This equation assumes plants are started from seed and allowed approximately 30 days growing time inside. The "Green Goliath" takes about 60 days to mature, but is also one of the more hardy options to plant. Because it is tolerant of heat and cold, plants can go into the outdoor garden earlier than some other types. The short growing season also allows for the late planting of a fall crop, and because of its cold hardiness the Green Goliath is also well-suited to late plantings.
Other types, such as the "Green Comet," are less hardy but have a shorter growing time of about 55 days from transplant to maturity.
Starting Seeds
Broccoli seeds can be planted indoors to give plants a head start before being moved out into the elements outside. Germination and the growth of young plants is most successful when the temperature is consistent and kept between 60 and 70 Fahrenheit. Plant seedlings in a large, flat container approximately an inch apart and about a quarter of an inch below the soil. Placing a light material such as cheesecloth over the seeds will establish enough of a barrier that they will be encouraged to grow unhindered outwards rather than upwards while still allowing light to reach them. Tall, leggy plants will not produce the stout, rounded broccoli crowns that are most desirable, and keeping plants short will help ensure healthy, compact crowns.
Seeds can be started in trays can kept indoors for between 25 and 35 days. Depending on the area and outdoor climate, plan to transplant seeds when there is no more danger of freezing temperatures or frost.
Transplanting
By the time seedlings are transplanted, they should be approximately but not more than 4 inches tall. Once they are planted in the garden, it will take approximately two months for them to reach maturity. During this time, fertilizing once (about three weeks after transplanting) with nitrogen and keeping the soil moist can help to ensure maximum growth rate.
Alternately, the seedlings can also be planted using not only water but a mixture of water and 5-10-10 fertilizer.
Multiple Crops
Because broccoli is tolerant of cool weather as well as warm and can be started inside, in many temperate areas, it is possible to plant three broccoli crops in a single season.
For example, starting the first seeds in March will allow for transplanting in April, with a crop harvested in the beginning of June. Starting another crop of seeds indoors in the beginning of May will create seedlings ready to plant in June and harvest in August. Repeating the process -- starting seeds in July, transplanting after the August harvest and finishing the last harvest in the beginning of October -- will allow gardeners to get in several crops.
Types
Different varieties of broccoli have different growing times, but most are around 60 days from planting in the garden to harvesting the broccoli. This equation assumes plants are started from seed and allowed approximately 30 days growing time inside. The "Green Goliath" takes about 60 days to mature, but is also one of the more hardy options to plant. Because it is tolerant of heat and cold, plants can go into the outdoor garden earlier than some other types. The short growing season also allows for the late planting of a fall crop, and because of its cold hardiness the Green Goliath is also well-suited to late plantings.
Other types, such as the "Green Comet," are less hardy but have a shorter growing time of about 55 days from transplant to maturity.
Starting Seeds
Broccoli seeds can be planted indoors to give plants a head start before being moved out into the elements outside. Germination and the growth of young plants is most successful when the temperature is consistent and kept between 60 and 70 Fahrenheit. Plant seedlings in a large, flat container approximately an inch apart and about a quarter of an inch below the soil. Placing a light material such as cheesecloth over the seeds will establish enough of a barrier that they will be encouraged to grow unhindered outwards rather than upwards while still allowing light to reach them. Tall, leggy plants will not produce the stout, rounded broccoli crowns that are most desirable, and keeping plants short will help ensure healthy, compact crowns.
Seeds can be started in trays can kept indoors for between 25 and 35 days. Depending on the area and outdoor climate, plan to transplant seeds when there is no more danger of freezing temperatures or frost.
Transplanting
By the time seedlings are transplanted, they should be approximately but not more than 4 inches tall. Once they are planted in the garden, it will take approximately two months for them to reach maturity. During this time, fertilizing once (about three weeks after transplanting) with nitrogen and keeping the soil moist can help to ensure maximum growth rate.
Alternately, the seedlings can also be planted using not only water but a mixture of water and 5-10-10 fertilizer.
Multiple Crops
Because broccoli is tolerant of cool weather as well as warm and can be started inside, in many temperate areas, it is possible to plant three broccoli crops in a single season.
For example, starting the first seeds in March will allow for transplanting in April, with a crop harvested in the beginning of June. Starting another crop of seeds indoors in the beginning of May will create seedlings ready to plant in June and harvest in August. Repeating the process -- starting seeds in July, transplanting after the August harvest and finishing the last harvest in the beginning of October -- will allow gardeners to get in several crops.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
Zucchinis (Cucurbita pepo) and cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are both members of the Cucurbit family, so it's no wonder people confuse these two long, slender green vegetables. While it's more obvious when you're harvesting the annual vegetables, the young plants look similar to the untrained eye. When you've planted the vines, you'll remember which is which, especially if you've labeled your garden, but volunteer squash and zucchini plants in unplanned spots require identification from the seedling stage.
Seedling Stage
Zucchini and cucumber plants look most similar in the seedling stage when there are fewer leaves and other identifying characteristics. The seed sometimes remains attached to the leaflets when the seedlings pop through the ground. Cucumber seeds are narrow, long and smooth, while zucchini seeds are short, wide, and have a small ridge around the perimeter. The first two leaves of zucchini and cucumber seedlings are oval and virtually indistinguishable. Likewise, the second and subsequent sets of leaves are both heart-shaped with wavy edges. As the seedlings grow, cucumber seedlings tend to spread as vines, while zucchini growth is more upright.
The differences between zucchini and cucumber plants become more apparent as the plants mature. While leaf shape is similar, cucumber leaves are much smaller, at 4 to 5 inches in diameter, while zucchini leaves grow 12 inches in diameter or wider. Zucchini plants are often considered vines, although their growth habit is more bushlike, with stems that might spread as much as 3 feet with a basically upright growth habit. Leaves are supported by thick, hollow stalks that are covered with stiff, prickly hairs. The vining habit of a cucumber is much more obvious than with zucchini. The stems are similar, but cucumber stems are narrower and produce fine tendrils for climbing as they grow. Even bush-type cucumber plants tend to spread vines along the ground, while some cucumber vines grow over 12 fee long and require trellising. Zucchini plants produces large, trumpet-shaped, yellow or orange flowers, while yellow cucumber flowers are smaller and bell-shaped.
At first glance, cucumbers and zucchinis bear a striking resemblance, particularly if zucchinis are picked when small and closer in size to cucumbers. The first clue is the stem end of the fruit -- zucchini has a woody stem at the end while a cucumber has a small, circular scar. Feel the two in your hand and you'll notice cucumbers have a waxy skin, while zucchini skins are dull. A zucchini is rarely perfectly round, instead featuring several flat sides that result in a mostly round appearance. Both vegetables can have mottled skin, but this is usually sporadic on cucumbers while zucchini skins are mottled throughout. Instead of perfectly smooth skin as you would find on zucchini, cucumbers are covered in tiny nubs that can even prick you before you gently rub them off with your thumbs.
Flavor is a dead giveaway for distinguishing zucchinis and cucumbers, but you can tell the difference in the interior flesh without taking a single bite. Start by cutting through the zucchini and cucumber. Immediately, you'll notice the softness of the zucchini as your knife glides through the flesh when compared to the "snap" in the crunchy cucumber. Zucchini flesh is dry, soft and somewhat spongy -- push it with your finger and it will spring back a bit. Cucumbers are moist inside, with firm flesh. The interior color is mostly white for both vegetables, but cucumbers have a slight tint of green.
Seedling Stage
Zucchini and cucumber plants look most similar in the seedling stage when there are fewer leaves and other identifying characteristics. The seed sometimes remains attached to the leaflets when the seedlings pop through the ground. Cucumber seeds are narrow, long and smooth, while zucchini seeds are short, wide, and have a small ridge around the perimeter. The first two leaves of zucchini and cucumber seedlings are oval and virtually indistinguishable. Likewise, the second and subsequent sets of leaves are both heart-shaped with wavy edges. As the seedlings grow, cucumber seedlings tend to spread as vines, while zucchini growth is more upright.
The differences between zucchini and cucumber plants become more apparent as the plants mature. While leaf shape is similar, cucumber leaves are much smaller, at 4 to 5 inches in diameter, while zucchini leaves grow 12 inches in diameter or wider. Zucchini plants are often considered vines, although their growth habit is more bushlike, with stems that might spread as much as 3 feet with a basically upright growth habit. Leaves are supported by thick, hollow stalks that are covered with stiff, prickly hairs. The vining habit of a cucumber is much more obvious than with zucchini. The stems are similar, but cucumber stems are narrower and produce fine tendrils for climbing as they grow. Even bush-type cucumber plants tend to spread vines along the ground, while some cucumber vines grow over 12 fee long and require trellising. Zucchini plants produces large, trumpet-shaped, yellow or orange flowers, while yellow cucumber flowers are smaller and bell-shaped.
At first glance, cucumbers and zucchinis bear a striking resemblance, particularly if zucchinis are picked when small and closer in size to cucumbers. The first clue is the stem end of the fruit -- zucchini has a woody stem at the end while a cucumber has a small, circular scar. Feel the two in your hand and you'll notice cucumbers have a waxy skin, while zucchini skins are dull. A zucchini is rarely perfectly round, instead featuring several flat sides that result in a mostly round appearance. Both vegetables can have mottled skin, but this is usually sporadic on cucumbers while zucchini skins are mottled throughout. Instead of perfectly smooth skin as you would find on zucchini, cucumbers are covered in tiny nubs that can even prick you before you gently rub them off with your thumbs.
Flavor is a dead giveaway for distinguishing zucchinis and cucumbers, but you can tell the difference in the interior flesh without taking a single bite. Start by cutting through the zucchini and cucumber. Immediately, you'll notice the softness of the zucchini as your knife glides through the flesh when compared to the "snap" in the crunchy cucumber. Zucchini flesh is dry, soft and somewhat spongy -- push it with your finger and it will spring back a bit. Cucumbers are moist inside, with firm flesh. The interior color is mostly white for both vegetables, but cucumbers have a slight tint of green.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
While gardeners grow a number of varieties of beans, the bush and pole types of the string or green bean is the most common. These beans produce a pod that is harvested before maturity for use green or allowed to mature for dry beans. In the case of dry beans the seeds are removed from the pods.
Blooming
In some circumstances bean plants bloom but fail to set pods. Common causes include excessive nitrogen fertilization or warm conditions with low humidity. Fertilize after the first harvest to avoid over fertilization although the weather is often outside the gardener's control.
Harvest Time
Harvest the beans about two weeks after the full bloom. Actual harvest may dates vary depending on weather and other factors. Bean plants continue to bloom as long as the pods are harvested before maturity. This results in an almost continuous cycle of blooms and harvests. Harvest about once a week to gather the pods at the proper size. The harvest cycle occurs more frequently than the length of time from bloom to harvest because not all plants will be at the same maturity point.
Harvest Methods
Harvest by hand working carefully to avoid breakage to stems and other blossom bearing structures. Avoid harvest during times the plants are damp or wet with rain or dew. This can spread diseases within the bean plants.
Continued Harvest
As long as the pods are harvested before maturity the plants will continue to develop blooms and pods until the plant is killed by fall frosts. The cycle of harvestable beans two weeks after the full blooms continues through the summer.
Blooming
In some circumstances bean plants bloom but fail to set pods. Common causes include excessive nitrogen fertilization or warm conditions with low humidity. Fertilize after the first harvest to avoid over fertilization although the weather is often outside the gardener's control.
Harvest Time
Harvest the beans about two weeks after the full bloom. Actual harvest may dates vary depending on weather and other factors. Bean plants continue to bloom as long as the pods are harvested before maturity. This results in an almost continuous cycle of blooms and harvests. Harvest about once a week to gather the pods at the proper size. The harvest cycle occurs more frequently than the length of time from bloom to harvest because not all plants will be at the same maturity point.
Harvest Methods
Harvest by hand working carefully to avoid breakage to stems and other blossom bearing structures. Avoid harvest during times the plants are damp or wet with rain or dew. This can spread diseases within the bean plants.
Continued Harvest
As long as the pods are harvested before maturity the plants will continue to develop blooms and pods until the plant is killed by fall frosts. The cycle of harvestable beans two weeks after the full blooms continues through the summer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
As a vegetable gardener, you're probably familiar with the good feeling most gardeners get from harvesting their own crops. It's disappointing, though, to see garden produce such as green peppers (Capsicum spp.) develop black areas and stop growing when they're only partially formed. Several problems can cause blackening of pepper fruits. So identifying the specific cause is an important first step in dealing with the problem and saving the remaining crop.
Plant Diseases
Peppers usually are grown as annual plants in all parts of the United States, but they are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, they thrive in well-drained soil and full-sun exposure.
Most pepper types, including bell pepper (Capsicum annuum), a common type, start setting fruits about six weeks after they are planted. The fruits gradually enlarge and, depending on the variety, may stay green or turn yellow, orange or red when fully mature. Although usually trouble-free plants, peppers can be susceptible to plant diseases that may damage and discolor their fruits.
Fungal Problems
Several fungal disorders can cause ripening pepper fruits to develop black spots. One of the disorders is anthracnose, which leads to round lesions on pepper fruits; the lesions sometimes have black rings in their center and can enlarge enough to cover and collapse entire fruits. Another fungal disease, called Phytophthora blight, also can cause black areas on pepper fruits, with those areas eventually covering entire fruits. Phytophthora blight also produces black areas on pepper plant stems and overall wilting of the plants.
The best way to prevent fungal problems is to inspect transplants carefully and choose only those without any wilted or damaged leaves. Also, choose varieties certified as disease-resistant. Water the plants at their bases to keep their foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal growth, and space the plants at least 18 to 24 inches apart to give them good air circulation.
Once you see signs of a fungal problem in a pepper plant, you might be able to save the plant by pruning away and discarding its affected parts, cutting behind diseased areas and into healthy tissue with sharp shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading the disease. If the entire plant is affected, discard it to prevent the fungus' spread to other plants. It's also helpful to rotate planting areas because fungi live in the soil and can reinfect the next year's crop.
Viral Infection
An infection caused by the tomato spotted wilt virus may cause light-colored rings on pepper fruits, and the rings may slowly turn black. The affected plant's leaves become bronze-colored and wilt, and a severely infected plant could die. This virus is spread by a thrip, a tan or yellowish brown insect about 1/25th inch long. If thrips or tomato spotted wilt virus symptoms appear on a pepper plant, then mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on all parts of the plant until they are dripping wet. Use the spray on a windless day when the temperature is at or below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If an entire plant shows symptoms of the virus, it's best to discard it.
Blossom End-Rot
A problem called blossom end-rot also can produce black spots on pepper fruits. Each spot looks sunken and rotted, and it appears on the fruit's blossom end -- not the fruit's stem end. If you see a small, black spot on an otherwise healthy pepper fruit, then it's fine to pick the fruit and use its unaffected areas, but discard its blackened end. If, though, the damage involves most of a fruit, then pick and discard that fruit, allowing the plant to put its energy into other, healthy fruits.
Blossom end-rot develops when the soil is poor in calcium or when plants have difficulty using the calcium that's present. The best way to prevent the problem is to avoid moisture stress to the plants by ensuring they get at least 1 inch of water weekly. Add about a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface under each pepper plant to conserve soil moisture, keeping the mulch back a bit from every plant's center to discourage fungus.
If you encounter blossom end-rot in your pepper plants, check their soil's pH level with a soil test kit before the next growing season, ensuring that it's pH 6.5 to 6.8, a level that helps make soil calcium available to the plants. If necessary, pre-treat the soil the next spring as recommended in the soil test result. If, for example, the soil's pH is 7.5, then add 1 1/5 pounds of aluminum sulfate for each 10 square feet of area to lower the soil's pH to 6.5.
Plant Diseases
Peppers usually are grown as annual plants in all parts of the United States, but they are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, they thrive in well-drained soil and full-sun exposure.
Most pepper types, including bell pepper (Capsicum annuum), a common type, start setting fruits about six weeks after they are planted. The fruits gradually enlarge and, depending on the variety, may stay green or turn yellow, orange or red when fully mature. Although usually trouble-free plants, peppers can be susceptible to plant diseases that may damage and discolor their fruits.
Fungal Problems
Several fungal disorders can cause ripening pepper fruits to develop black spots. One of the disorders is anthracnose, which leads to round lesions on pepper fruits; the lesions sometimes have black rings in their center and can enlarge enough to cover and collapse entire fruits. Another fungal disease, called Phytophthora blight, also can cause black areas on pepper fruits, with those areas eventually covering entire fruits. Phytophthora blight also produces black areas on pepper plant stems and overall wilting of the plants.
The best way to prevent fungal problems is to inspect transplants carefully and choose only those without any wilted or damaged leaves. Also, choose varieties certified as disease-resistant. Water the plants at their bases to keep their foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal growth, and space the plants at least 18 to 24 inches apart to give them good air circulation.
Once you see signs of a fungal problem in a pepper plant, you might be able to save the plant by pruning away and discarding its affected parts, cutting behind diseased areas and into healthy tissue with sharp shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading the disease. If the entire plant is affected, discard it to prevent the fungus' spread to other plants. It's also helpful to rotate planting areas because fungi live in the soil and can reinfect the next year's crop.
Viral Infection
An infection caused by the tomato spotted wilt virus may cause light-colored rings on pepper fruits, and the rings may slowly turn black. The affected plant's leaves become bronze-colored and wilt, and a severely infected plant could die. This virus is spread by a thrip, a tan or yellowish brown insect about 1/25th inch long. If thrips or tomato spotted wilt virus symptoms appear on a pepper plant, then mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on all parts of the plant until they are dripping wet. Use the spray on a windless day when the temperature is at or below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If an entire plant shows symptoms of the virus, it's best to discard it.
Blossom End-Rot
A problem called blossom end-rot also can produce black spots on pepper fruits. Each spot looks sunken and rotted, and it appears on the fruit's blossom end -- not the fruit's stem end. If you see a small, black spot on an otherwise healthy pepper fruit, then it's fine to pick the fruit and use its unaffected areas, but discard its blackened end. If, though, the damage involves most of a fruit, then pick and discard that fruit, allowing the plant to put its energy into other, healthy fruits.
Blossom end-rot develops when the soil is poor in calcium or when plants have difficulty using the calcium that's present. The best way to prevent the problem is to avoid moisture stress to the plants by ensuring they get at least 1 inch of water weekly. Add about a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface under each pepper plant to conserve soil moisture, keeping the mulch back a bit from every plant's center to discourage fungus.
If you encounter blossom end-rot in your pepper plants, check their soil's pH level with a soil test kit before the next growing season, ensuring that it's pH 6.5 to 6.8, a level that helps make soil calcium available to the plants. If necessary, pre-treat the soil the next spring as recommended in the soil test result. If, for example, the soil's pH is 7.5, then add 1 1/5 pounds of aluminum sulfate for each 10 square feet of area to lower the soil's pH to 6.5.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
The Walla Walla onion is a sweet white onion identified with the Pacific Northwest and the Walla Walla, Washington, area in particular. The onion is a bulb onion bred for use as a diced or sliced product rather than for use fresh as a green onion or as a small bulb for pickling. Onions are commonly harvested in the summer or early fall of the year.
Harvest Signs
Harvest Walla Walla onions when the tops fall over. This indicates the plant is no longer actively growing. Lift the onions out of the soil using a garden fork or shovel. Leave the onion laying in the garden with the top attached for about two weeks. Remove the onion from the garden when the skin resembles paper.
Harvest Timing
Harvest commonly occurs about four months after the Walla Walla onion sets were planted in the garden. In Washington and Oregon, the Walla Walla and some other onion varieties are planted in the fall and allowed to overwinter in the ground. The plants begin growth the next spring and are ready for harvest in the summer.
Trimming the Onion
Trim the onion when it is removed from the garden. Clip the onion top off about 2 inches above the bulb. The onion stems can be composted.
Storing the Onion
Place the onions in a mesh or burlap bag for storage. These types of bags allow air circulation all around the onion. Hang the bags to further promote air circulation and avoid damp spots in the bag from contact with a floor. Store onions in conditions above freezing but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit for best long-term storage.
Harvest Signs
Harvest Walla Walla onions when the tops fall over. This indicates the plant is no longer actively growing. Lift the onions out of the soil using a garden fork or shovel. Leave the onion laying in the garden with the top attached for about two weeks. Remove the onion from the garden when the skin resembles paper.
Harvest Timing
Harvest commonly occurs about four months after the Walla Walla onion sets were planted in the garden. In Washington and Oregon, the Walla Walla and some other onion varieties are planted in the fall and allowed to overwinter in the ground. The plants begin growth the next spring and are ready for harvest in the summer.
Trimming the Onion
Trim the onion when it is removed from the garden. Clip the onion top off about 2 inches above the bulb. The onion stems can be composted.
Storing the Onion
Place the onions in a mesh or burlap bag for storage. These types of bags allow air circulation all around the onion. Hang the bags to further promote air circulation and avoid damp spots in the bag from contact with a floor. Store onions in conditions above freezing but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit for best long-term storage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Green peppers are often referred to as sweet or bell peppers and come in many varieties. Pepper plants originated in tropical areas of the world where they grow as perennials. However, these tender warm-season vegetables are usually planted annually in summer vegetable gardens. Most pepper plants can take from 60 to 95 days from sowing to harvest, but you may not know that green peppers are actually not fully mature.
Temperature Requirements
Most gardeners either start green peppers from seeds indoors seven to 10 weeks ahead of the proposed planting date or purchase green pepper transplants in the spring because of the temperatures required for growing these tender plants. The best temperature for growing peppers is no more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You must wait until the soil has warmed in the spring and there is no more chance of frost to plant peppers outside.
Soil and Light Requirements
Providing the ideal growing environment for the green pepper plants to develop and begin producing fruits starts with the planting location. Pepper plants prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. If possible, test your soil and alter it accordingly depending on the results. Amending the soil with 3 inches of organic matter is a common practice to enrich the soil without testing. Green peppers require full sunlight for more than six hours.
Planting Green Peppers
Only purchase healthy green pepper plants with three or more sets of leaves and no blossoms. Water the plants well before planting. Wait for a cloudy, cool day to place the transplants in the vegetable garden. Space the pepper transplants at least 18 inches apart and in rows at least 24 inches apart. Dig holes to plant them at the same depth and saturate the soil to remove any air pockets. Apply a starter fertilizer at half-strength to each plant.
Maintenance and Harvest
Maintain the plants properly to ensure ideal growth and development occurs. Place a layer of mulch around the peppers to retain soil moisture and avert weeds or remove the weeds manually. Water the green pepper plants as needed to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Apply a vegetable fertilizer as directed while the plants are growing. Harvest the green peppers when the fruits have reached the size desired. Remove the peppers from the plants with a sharp knife or pruner to prevent damage.
Varieties and Days to Harvest
Sweet bell hybrid peppers change from green to red, including varieties like Bell Boy, Brigadier and Enterprise (71 days) and Palidin, Ranger and Sentry (75 days). Green ornamental peppers include NeMex Twilight and Thai Hot (70 days). Hot hybrid green peppers include Ancho Ranchero (70 days), Ancho Vila (80 days), Cherry Bomb (68 days), Grande and Super Chili (75 days). Open-pollinated sweet and hot green peppers include Queen (68 days), Valencia (70 days), Red Chill (82 days) and Ancho Gigantia (90 days).
Temperature Requirements
Most gardeners either start green peppers from seeds indoors seven to 10 weeks ahead of the proposed planting date or purchase green pepper transplants in the spring because of the temperatures required for growing these tender plants. The best temperature for growing peppers is no more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You must wait until the soil has warmed in the spring and there is no more chance of frost to plant peppers outside.
Soil and Light Requirements
Providing the ideal growing environment for the green pepper plants to develop and begin producing fruits starts with the planting location. Pepper plants prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. If possible, test your soil and alter it accordingly depending on the results. Amending the soil with 3 inches of organic matter is a common practice to enrich the soil without testing. Green peppers require full sunlight for more than six hours.
Planting Green Peppers
Only purchase healthy green pepper plants with three or more sets of leaves and no blossoms. Water the plants well before planting. Wait for a cloudy, cool day to place the transplants in the vegetable garden. Space the pepper transplants at least 18 inches apart and in rows at least 24 inches apart. Dig holes to plant them at the same depth and saturate the soil to remove any air pockets. Apply a starter fertilizer at half-strength to each plant.
Maintenance and Harvest
Maintain the plants properly to ensure ideal growth and development occurs. Place a layer of mulch around the peppers to retain soil moisture and avert weeds or remove the weeds manually. Water the green pepper plants as needed to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Apply a vegetable fertilizer as directed while the plants are growing. Harvest the green peppers when the fruits have reached the size desired. Remove the peppers from the plants with a sharp knife or pruner to prevent damage.
Varieties and Days to Harvest
Sweet bell hybrid peppers change from green to red, including varieties like Bell Boy, Brigadier and Enterprise (71 days) and Palidin, Ranger and Sentry (75 days). Green ornamental peppers include NeMex Twilight and Thai Hot (70 days). Hot hybrid green peppers include Ancho Ranchero (70 days), Ancho Vila (80 days), Cherry Bomb (68 days), Grande and Super Chili (75 days). Open-pollinated sweet and hot green peppers include Queen (68 days), Valencia (70 days), Red Chill (82 days) and Ancho Gigantia (90 days).
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 4-12" tall; it is branched at the base and often branched above. The ascending to erect stems are light to medium green, hairy, and terete. Alternate trifoliate leaves occur at intervals along the stems. The leaflets are ½-1½" long and 4-8 mm. across; they are elliptic in shape, while their margins are entire (smooth) and ciliate. The upper leaflet surface is medium green and glabrous to sparsely short-pubescent, while the lower leaflet surface is light green and sparsely short-pubescent. The petioles of the trifoliate leaves are up to ¼" long, light green, and hairy. The base of each petiole and a portion of the adjacent stem are surrounded by a pair of of green to brown stipules; each stipule tapers to a ciliate beak. The terminal leaflets have petiolules (basal stalklets) up to ¼" long, while the lateral leaflets are sessile (or nearly so). Leaf venation is pinnate; the veins along the upper leaflet surfaces often appear to be shiny. The flowers are produced individually (rare in clusters) from the axils of the leaves. The pedicels of the flowers are up to ¼" long. Each flower has 5 yellow petals, a light green calyx with 4-5 lobes, and the enclosed reproductive organs. The petals are arranged in a pea-like floral structure, consisting of a large banner, a pair of forward-projecting wings, and an enclosed keel. The flowers are oriented either laterally (with erect banners) or they are held erect (with the banners at the bottom).
The blooming period occurs from late spring to late summer, lasting about 1½-3 months. Only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. The flowers are replaced by small seedpods consisting of two segments: the first segment is infertile and stipe-like in shape, while the second segment contains a single seed. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a somewhat acidic infertile soil where there is reduced competition from other kinds of ground vegetation.
Range & Habitat: The native Pencil Flower is fairly common in southern Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the northern range limit of this species. Habitats consist of upland rocky woodlands, bluffs, upland savannas, sandstone glades, prairies, and fields. Pencil Flower occurs in both higher quality natural areas and disturbed areas, especially where sandstone is close to the ground surface.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Pencil Flower are cross-pollinated primarily by bees (Robertson, 1929). This is one of the host plants of a leaf beetle, Sumitrosis ancoroides. The foliage is highly palatable to hoofed mammalian herbivores (Banta & Thro, 1995).
Photographic Location: An upland rocky woodland in southern Illinois.
Comments: Because it produces relatively few flowers at the same time and it is relatively small in size, Pencil Flower is fairly easy to overlook. It can be distinguished from similar species in the Bean family by the shiny veins on its leaves, stipules with beak-like ciliate tips, and asymmetrical seedpods (a narrow infertile segment followed by a broader fertile segment). There is some variability of this species across its range in regards to the hairiness of its stems, the erectness of its stems, whether flowers are produced individually or in small groups, etc. At the present time, these are regarded as variations of a single polymorphic species.
The blooming period occurs from late spring to late summer, lasting about 1½-3 months. Only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. The flowers are replaced by small seedpods consisting of two segments: the first segment is infertile and stipe-like in shape, while the second segment contains a single seed. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a somewhat acidic infertile soil where there is reduced competition from other kinds of ground vegetation.
Range & Habitat: The native Pencil Flower is fairly common in southern Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the northern range limit of this species. Habitats consist of upland rocky woodlands, bluffs, upland savannas, sandstone glades, prairies, and fields. Pencil Flower occurs in both higher quality natural areas and disturbed areas, especially where sandstone is close to the ground surface.
Faunal Associations: The flowers of Pencil Flower are cross-pollinated primarily by bees (Robertson, 1929). This is one of the host plants of a leaf beetle, Sumitrosis ancoroides. The foliage is highly palatable to hoofed mammalian herbivores (Banta & Thro, 1995).
Photographic Location: An upland rocky woodland in southern Illinois.
Comments: Because it produces relatively few flowers at the same time and it is relatively small in size, Pencil Flower is fairly easy to overlook. It can be distinguished from similar species in the Bean family by the shiny veins on its leaves, stipules with beak-like ciliate tips, and asymmetrical seedpods (a narrow infertile segment followed by a broader fertile segment). There is some variability of this species across its range in regards to the hairiness of its stems, the erectness of its stems, whether flowers are produced individually or in small groups, etc. At the present time, these are regarded as variations of a single polymorphic species.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Description: This plant is a trailing or climbing annual vine about 3-9' long that branches occasionally. The slender stems are light green, gray-green, or dull red, terete, and hairy; they can climb by twining around the stems or branches of neighboring plants. Alternate trifoliate leaves occur at intervals along the stems. The leaflets are 1-2" long and ½–1¼" across; the terminal leaflet is usually a little larger than the lateral leaflets. The leaflets are broadly lanceolate to ovate with well-rounded bases and smooth margins; the terminal leaflet has a short stalk at its base (petiolule), while the lateral leaflets are nearly sessile. For this variety of Strophostyles helvula, the leaflets lack obtuse basal lobes, unlike the typical variety. The upper leaflet surfaces are medium green and hairless (or nearly so), while their lowers surfaces are pale green and hairless (or nearly so). The slender petioles of the trifoliate leaves are about 1-2" long; they are usually slightly pubescent. At the base of each petiole, there is a pair of tiny linear-lanceolate stipules.
At the axils of some leaves, there develops individual stalks (peduncles) of flowers; these stalks are 3-6" long. At the apex of each stalk, there is a dense cluster of 3-10 nearly sessile flowers; usually only 1-2 flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is about 1/3" long or a little more, its petals consisting of a large rounded banner, a pair of slender lateral petals, and a narrow keel that is curled upward. These petals are light pink to pink, fading to white or pale green; at the bottom of the banner, there is a small patch of yellow. At the base of each flower, there is a short tubular calyx with 5 teeth; this calyx is sparsely hairy. At the base of each calyx, there are lanceolate tiny bracts with pointed tips that are about the same length as the calyx. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. Each fertile flower is replaced by a cylindrical seedpod that is 2–3½" long at maturity. The seedpod is initially green, but later becomes dark brown; it is nearly glabrous to sparsely hairy. Individual seeds are about ¼" long, oblongoid in shape, and pubescent. Each seedpod eventually divides into two parts to disperse the seeds.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil containing sand, loam, silt, or gravelly soil. The root system can fix nitrogen in the soil.
Range & Habitat: This native wildflower is occasional throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map); the map does not differentiate between var. missouriensis and the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean). Missouri Fuzzy Bean is less common than the typical variety and it is found primarily in counties along the Mississippi River. Habitats of both varieties include open woodlands (including sandy and rocky woodlands), thickets and sandy thickets, riverbanks, sand bars and gravel bars along rivers, abandoned fields, and areas along railroads. Habitats with some history of disturbance are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by bees, especially Large Leaf-Cutting bees (Megachile spp.) and bumblebees. One bee species, Megachile integra, is a specialist pollinator (oligolege) of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans). Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards. Missouri Fuzzy Bean also has extra-floral nectaries, which attract primarily wasps, flies, ants, and small Halictid bees. The extra-floral nectaries may prevent nectar thieves (e.g., ants) from stealing nectar from the flowers, or they may attract insects (e.g., ants & wasps) that help to protect the plant from insects that feed on the foliage. Insect feeders of the foliage include the caterpillars of Thorybes bathyllus (Southern Cloudywing), Epargyreus clarus (Silver-Spotted Skipper), and Urbanus proteus (Long-Tailed Skipper). The leaf beetles Cerotoma trifurcata and Sumitrosis ancoroides also feed on the foliage. The seeds are eaten by such birds as the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Mourning Dove, while the foliage is readily consumed by cattle, deer, and probably other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Missouri Fuzzy Bean is one of several species in the Fabaceae (Bean family) that are vines. It has fairly typical pea-like flowers for species in this family, except that the keels of the flowers curl upward in an odd manner. Another distinctive characteristic of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans) is the production of dense clusters of flowers on long stalks (although only a few flowers bloom at the same time per cluster). The common name 'Fuzzy Bean' refers to the hairiness of the seedpods and/or the pubescent seeds of many species in this genus. As already mentioned, Missouri Fuzzy Bean differs from the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean), by the lack of obtuse basal lobes on its leaflets. Because of this characteristic, Missouri Fuzzy Bean can be difficult to distinguish from Strophostyles umbellata (Perennial Fuzzy Bean), which has similar leaflets. For Missouri Fuzzy Bean, the tiny bracts at the base of each flower are about as long as the calyx and they have pointed tips. In contrast, the tiny bracts of Perennial Fuzzy Bean are only one-half as long as the calyx and they have blunt tips. Another species, Strophostyles leiosperma (Small Fuzzy Bean), has smaller leaves and flowers, while the calyx of each flower is densely hairy. Sometimes the scientific name Strophostyles helvula is spelled 'Strophostyles helvola,' which is apparently incorrect.
At the axils of some leaves, there develops individual stalks (peduncles) of flowers; these stalks are 3-6" long. At the apex of each stalk, there is a dense cluster of 3-10 nearly sessile flowers; usually only 1-2 flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is about 1/3" long or a little more, its petals consisting of a large rounded banner, a pair of slender lateral petals, and a narrow keel that is curled upward. These petals are light pink to pink, fading to white or pale green; at the bottom of the banner, there is a small patch of yellow. At the base of each flower, there is a short tubular calyx with 5 teeth; this calyx is sparsely hairy. At the base of each calyx, there are lanceolate tiny bracts with pointed tips that are about the same length as the calyx. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. Each fertile flower is replaced by a cylindrical seedpod that is 2–3½" long at maturity. The seedpod is initially green, but later becomes dark brown; it is nearly glabrous to sparsely hairy. Individual seeds are about ¼" long, oblongoid in shape, and pubescent. Each seedpod eventually divides into two parts to disperse the seeds.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and soil containing sand, loam, silt, or gravelly soil. The root system can fix nitrogen in the soil.
Range & Habitat: This native wildflower is occasional throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map); the map does not differentiate between var. missouriensis and the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean). Missouri Fuzzy Bean is less common than the typical variety and it is found primarily in counties along the Mississippi River. Habitats of both varieties include open woodlands (including sandy and rocky woodlands), thickets and sandy thickets, riverbanks, sand bars and gravel bars along rivers, abandoned fields, and areas along railroads. Habitats with some history of disturbance are preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by bees, especially Large Leaf-Cutting bees (Megachile spp.) and bumblebees. One bee species, Megachile integra, is a specialist pollinator (oligolege) of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans). Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards. Missouri Fuzzy Bean also has extra-floral nectaries, which attract primarily wasps, flies, ants, and small Halictid bees. The extra-floral nectaries may prevent nectar thieves (e.g., ants) from stealing nectar from the flowers, or they may attract insects (e.g., ants & wasps) that help to protect the plant from insects that feed on the foliage. Insect feeders of the foliage include the caterpillars of Thorybes bathyllus (Southern Cloudywing), Epargyreus clarus (Silver-Spotted Skipper), and Urbanus proteus (Long-Tailed Skipper). The leaf beetles Cerotoma trifurcata and Sumitrosis ancoroides also feed on the foliage. The seeds are eaten by such birds as the Wild Turkey, Bobwhite, and Mourning Dove, while the foliage is readily consumed by cattle, deer, and probably other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Missouri Fuzzy Bean is one of several species in the Fabaceae (Bean family) that are vines. It has fairly typical pea-like flowers for species in this family, except that the keels of the flowers curl upward in an odd manner. Another distinctive characteristic of Strophostyles spp. (Fuzzy Beans) is the production of dense clusters of flowers on long stalks (although only a few flowers bloom at the same time per cluster). The common name 'Fuzzy Bean' refers to the hairiness of the seedpods and/or the pubescent seeds of many species in this genus. As already mentioned, Missouri Fuzzy Bean differs from the typical variety, Strophostyles helvula helvula (Trailing Fuzzy Bean), by the lack of obtuse basal lobes on its leaflets. Because of this characteristic, Missouri Fuzzy Bean can be difficult to distinguish from Strophostyles umbellata (Perennial Fuzzy Bean), which has similar leaflets. For Missouri Fuzzy Bean, the tiny bracts at the base of each flower are about as long as the calyx and they have pointed tips. In contrast, the tiny bracts of Perennial Fuzzy Bean are only one-half as long as the calyx and they have blunt tips. Another species, Strophostyles leiosperma (Small Fuzzy Bean), has smaller leaves and flowers, while the calyx of each flower is densely hairy. Sometimes the scientific name Strophostyles helvula is spelled 'Strophostyles helvola,' which is apparently incorrect.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月06日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 1-5' tall and either unbranched or sparingly so. The central stem is erect, terete, densely hairy or pubescent, and light green to brownish red. The alternate leaves are up to 4" long and 1½" across; they are ovate, narrowly ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or ovate-oblanceolate in shape with crenate-serrate margins. The upper surfaces of the leaves are deeply indented by pinnate veins; this characteristic provides them with a somewhat wrinkled appearance. Additionally, the upper surfaces of the leaves are slightly pubescent to hairless, medium to dark green, and usually dull-colored. The central stem terminates in a panicle of yellow flowerheads of variable shape and size. Small plants often have narrow panicles that resemble racemes, while large plants often have broad panicles with spreading-recurved branches. The upper stems of some large plants may produce panicles that are smaller than that of the central stem.
Each yellow flowerhead spans about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 4-8 ray florets and a similar number of tubular disk florets. The base of each flowerhead consists of overlapping scale-like bracts that are yellowish-green. The branches of larger panicles often have small leafy bracts. The blooming period can occur from mid-summer into the fall and lasts about 1-2 months. Each fertile floret is replaced by a small bullet-shaped achene with a short tuft of hairs at its apex. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Vegetative colonies of plants are often formed by the spreading rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist conditions, and soil that is sandy, loamy, or gravelly with a slightly acid pH.
Range & Habitat: The native Wrinkled-Leaved Goldenrod occurs primarily in the southwest corner of Illinois, where it is uncommon. Elsewhere in the state, it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies at the NW range limit of this species. Habitats include low open woodlands, thickets, sandy swamps, wet sandy prairies, sandy banks of marshes, acid gravelly seeps, sand dunes, and rocky bluffs or cliffs. Usually, this goldenrod is found in moist areas that are sandy or where sandstone is close to the ground surface. Sometimes it is found in gardens, although some cultivars of this species bear little resemblance to the native plants.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract a wide variety of insects, including small bees, wasps, flies, small butterflies, skippers, and beetles. The caterpillars of many moth species feed on various parts of goldenrods (see Moth Table), while several leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae) feed primarily on the foliage (see Leaf Beetle Table). Other insects that feed on goldenrods include various plant bugs, stink bugs, lace bugs, treehoppers, and leafhoppers; the Bug Table lists some of these species. Insectivorous birds benefit indirectly from goldenrods because of the numerous insects that they attract. Other birds feed directly on goldenrods to a minor extent, including the Indigo Bunting (seeds), Eastern Goldfinch (seeds), Swamp Sparrow (seeds), Ruffed Grouse (leaves), and Greater Prairie Chicken (leaves). White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbits feed on young foliage to a limited extent, while Meadow Voles eat both the seeds and foliage.
Photographic Location: A sandy bank along a marsh at Jasper-Pulaski Fish and Wildlife Area in northwestern Indiana. The photographed plant is a dwarf (about 1½' tall) that may have been mowed earlier in the year.
Comments: Across it range in the eastern United States, this goldenrod is somewhat variable in appearance. Nonetheless, Wrinkle-Leaved Goldenrod can be distinguished from other goldenrods as follows: 1) the central stem is quite hairy or pubescent, 2) the upper surfaces of the leaves have a wrinkled appearance because of the indentations of their pinnate veins, and 3) individual leaves lack 3 prominent veins that run parallel to each other. This latter characteristic is typical of Solidago canadensis (Canada Goldenrod), Solidago gigantea (Giant Goldenrod), and similar goldenrods. Two other species, Solidago ulmifolia (Elm-Leaved Goldenrod) and Solidago patula (Swamp Goldenrod), have stems that are glabrous or only slightly hairy and their leaves tend to be more thin in texture and shiny than those of Wrinkle-Leaved Goldenrod. Other common names of Solidago rugosa include 'Rough-Stemmed Goldenrod,' 'Rough Goldenrod,' and 'Rough-Leaved Goldenrod.'
Each yellow flowerhead spans about 1/8" (3 mm.) across, consisting of 4-8 ray florets and a similar number of tubular disk florets. The base of each flowerhead consists of overlapping scale-like bracts that are yellowish-green. The branches of larger panicles often have small leafy bracts. The blooming period can occur from mid-summer into the fall and lasts about 1-2 months. Each fertile floret is replaced by a small bullet-shaped achene with a short tuft of hairs at its apex. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Vegetative colonies of plants are often formed by the spreading rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist conditions, and soil that is sandy, loamy, or gravelly with a slightly acid pH.
Range & Habitat: The native Wrinkled-Leaved Goldenrod occurs primarily in the southwest corner of Illinois, where it is uncommon. Elsewhere in the state, it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies at the NW range limit of this species. Habitats include low open woodlands, thickets, sandy swamps, wet sandy prairies, sandy banks of marshes, acid gravelly seeps, sand dunes, and rocky bluffs or cliffs. Usually, this goldenrod is found in moist areas that are sandy or where sandstone is close to the ground surface. Sometimes it is found in gardens, although some cultivars of this species bear little resemblance to the native plants.
Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract a wide variety of insects, including small bees, wasps, flies, small butterflies, skippers, and beetles. The caterpillars of many moth species feed on various parts of goldenrods (see Moth Table), while several leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae) feed primarily on the foliage (see Leaf Beetle Table). Other insects that feed on goldenrods include various plant bugs, stink bugs, lace bugs, treehoppers, and leafhoppers; the Bug Table lists some of these species. Insectivorous birds benefit indirectly from goldenrods because of the numerous insects that they attract. Other birds feed directly on goldenrods to a minor extent, including the Indigo Bunting (seeds), Eastern Goldfinch (seeds), Swamp Sparrow (seeds), Ruffed Grouse (leaves), and Greater Prairie Chicken (leaves). White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbits feed on young foliage to a limited extent, while Meadow Voles eat both the seeds and foliage.
Photographic Location: A sandy bank along a marsh at Jasper-Pulaski Fish and Wildlife Area in northwestern Indiana. The photographed plant is a dwarf (about 1½' tall) that may have been mowed earlier in the year.
Comments: Across it range in the eastern United States, this goldenrod is somewhat variable in appearance. Nonetheless, Wrinkle-Leaved Goldenrod can be distinguished from other goldenrods as follows: 1) the central stem is quite hairy or pubescent, 2) the upper surfaces of the leaves have a wrinkled appearance because of the indentations of their pinnate veins, and 3) individual leaves lack 3 prominent veins that run parallel to each other. This latter characteristic is typical of Solidago canadensis (Canada Goldenrod), Solidago gigantea (Giant Goldenrod), and similar goldenrods. Two other species, Solidago ulmifolia (Elm-Leaved Goldenrod) and Solidago patula (Swamp Goldenrod), have stems that are glabrous or only slightly hairy and their leaves tend to be more thin in texture and shiny than those of Wrinkle-Leaved Goldenrod. Other common names of Solidago rugosa include 'Rough-Stemmed Goldenrod,' 'Rough Goldenrod,' and 'Rough-Leaved Goldenrod.'
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Miss Chen
2018年04月05日
Description: This perennial herbaceous plant is 1¼–4' tall, producing either solitary or multiple leafy stems from the same root system. The stems are light green, reddish green, or light to medium brown; they are terete and sparsely to moderately short-pubescent. Abundant alternate leaves occur along each stem that become gradually smaller in size as they ascend. The leaf blades are 1-4" long and ¼–1" across; they are elliptic to broadly elliptic, or lanceolate-elliptic, or oblanceolate-elliptic in shape. The margins of leaf blades are entire (toothless) to slightly toothed toward their tips and they are short-ciliate. The upper blade surface is yellowish green or medium green and sparsely covered with minute stiff hairs, providing it with a slightly rough texture; the lower blade surface is light to medium green and glabrous to short-pubescent along the major veins. The leaf blades are either sessile or they have short petioles. Each stem terminates in a cylindrical panicle of flowerheads about 4-10" long. The branches and peduncles of the panicle are light green and more or less covered with short hairs that are usually glandular. Leafy bracts up to 1" long and ¼" across occur along these branches and at the bases of peduncles; these bracts are similar in appearance to the leaves, except they are smaller in size. Individual flowerheads are about 6 mm. (¼") long and 3-4 mm. across.
Each flowerhead has 5-10 ray florets that surround a dense head of 8-20 disk florets. The ray florets are pistillate (female), while the disk florets are perfect (both male and female). The spreading petaloid rays of the flowerhead are golden yellow and narrowly oblong in shape. The tubular corollas of the disk florets are yellow and they have 5 narrow lobes along their upper rims. The base of each flowerhead has a cylindrical urn-shape that is tapered at its base; it is surrounded by phyllaries (floral bracts) in about 4 overlapping series. The phyllaries are light green, linear-lanceolate in shape, and either minutely pubescent or glandular-pubescent (usually the latter); these phyllaries are strongly recurved toward their tips. The blooming period occurs from late summer to mid-autumn, lasting about 3-4 weeks. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes with small tufts of hair; they are distributed by the wind. The bodies of these achenes are about 3 mm. long, bullet-shaped, and either glabrous or slightly short-pubescent. The root system is fibrous and sometimes long-rhizomatous; an older plant usually develops a swollen caudex. This plant spreads by reseeding itself or it can form clonal offspring from rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a somewhat acidic soil containing rocky material or sand. This plant will adapt to cultivation, however it may require staking to prevent it from toppling over.
Range & Habitat: Downy Ragged Goldenrod is native to southern Illinois, where it is uncommon, while elsewhere within the state it is absent (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the northern range-limit of this plant; it occurs primarily in south-central and southeast USA. Habitats include upland woodlands, upland savannas, thinly wooded rocky bluffs, thickets, glades with acidic bedrock, and rocky prairies. In the wooded habitats where this plant occurs, they are typically dominated by oaks and hickories. Outside of Illinois, Downy Ragged Goldenrod also occurs in sandy mixed woodlands (where both hardwood deciduous trees and conifers are present). This plant is normally found in high quality natural areas. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial in maintaining its populations.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about the floral-faunal relationships of Downy Ragged Goldenrod specifically. This goldenrod is a significant source of nectar for migrating Monarch butterflies in Arkansas (Rudolph et al., 2006) and the larvae of a leaf beetle, Microrhopala excavata, mine its leaves (Clark et al., 2004). For goldenrods (Solidago spp.) in general, the nectar and pollen of the flowerheads attract a wide variety of insects, including honeybees, bumblebees, little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), leaf-cutter bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees, masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Andrenid bees, wasps, Syrphid flies and other flies, butterflies, skippers, and beetles. Several Andrenid bees are oligoleges (specialist pollinators) of goldenrods; this includes Andrena hirticincta, Andrena nubecula, Andrena placata, Andrena simplex, and Andrena solidaginis. In addition, a plasterer bee, Colletes simulans armata, is an oligolege of goldenrods. A wide variety of insects feed destructively on the foliage, flowerheads, stems, roots, and plant juices of various goldenrods. These species include leaf beetles (Microrhopala spp., Ophraella spp., Trirhabda spp.), larvae of leaf-miner flies (Calycomyza spp.), larvae of gall flies (Asteromyia spp., Rhopalomyia spp.), plant bugs (Lygus spp., Polymerus spp., Slaterocoris spp.), Corythucha marmorata (Goldenrod Lace Bug), aphids (Uroleucon spp.), treehoppers (Stictocephala spp.), Aonidomytilus solidaginis (Goldenrod Scale), larvae of Gelechiid moths (Dichomeris spp.), larvae of Schinia nundina (Goldenrod Flower Moth) and other Noctuid moths, larvae of Tortricid moths (Epiblema spp., Eucosma spp., Phaneta spp.), and grasshoppers (Melanoplus spp.); see Clark et al. (2004), Spencer & Steyskal (1986), Felt (1917), Aldrich & Osten-Sacken (1905), Knight (1941), Watson (1928), Wheeler et al. (1983), Cranshaw (2004), Hottes & Frison (1931), Blackman & Eastop (2013), Dennis (1952), Covell (1984/2005), Miller (1987), and Vickery & Kevan (1985) for more information. Vertebrate animals use goldenrods as a source of food to a more limited extent. The seeds of these plants are eaten by such birds as the Indigo Bunting, American Goldfinch, Slate-colored Junco, and Tree Sparrow; the Greater Prairie Chicken feeds on the foliage and flowerheads (DeVore et al., 2004; Martin et al., 1951/1961; Yeatter, 1943). Occasionally, the White-tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit also feed on the young foliage of goldenrods (Sotala & Kirkpatrick, 1973; Martin et al., 1951/1961). These plants are a source of food for the Prairie Vole (Cole & Batzli, 1979) and probably other voles.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Sometimes this species is called 'Downy Goldenrod.' There is some variability in the width of leaves, presence of teeth on the leaves, abundance of pubescence, and presence of glandular hairs on this goldenrod across its range. Downy Ragged Goldenrod (Solidago petiolaris) is easy to identify in Illinois because of the recurved phyllaries (floral bracts) of its flowerheads; this is the only goldenrod within the state that has this characteristic, and it is rare among goldenrods (Solidago spp.) elsewhere. One species with this characteristic is Stout Goldenrod (Solidago squarrosa). This latter species is found primarily in northeastern United States. Stout Goldenrod has larger lower leaves than Downy Ragged Goldenrod (Solidago petiolaris), and its lower leaves have more teeth. Overall, it is a less hairy plant than Downy Ragged Goldenrod. The remaining goldenrod with recurved phyllaries, Wright's Goldenrod (Solidago wrightii), is difficult to distinguish from Downy Ragged Goldenrod. Because Wright's Goldenrod occurs some distance away in the southwestern area of the United States, it won't be considered any further.
Each flowerhead has 5-10 ray florets that surround a dense head of 8-20 disk florets. The ray florets are pistillate (female), while the disk florets are perfect (both male and female). The spreading petaloid rays of the flowerhead are golden yellow and narrowly oblong in shape. The tubular corollas of the disk florets are yellow and they have 5 narrow lobes along their upper rims. The base of each flowerhead has a cylindrical urn-shape that is tapered at its base; it is surrounded by phyllaries (floral bracts) in about 4 overlapping series. The phyllaries are light green, linear-lanceolate in shape, and either minutely pubescent or glandular-pubescent (usually the latter); these phyllaries are strongly recurved toward their tips. The blooming period occurs from late summer to mid-autumn, lasting about 3-4 weeks. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes with small tufts of hair; they are distributed by the wind. The bodies of these achenes are about 3 mm. long, bullet-shaped, and either glabrous or slightly short-pubescent. The root system is fibrous and sometimes long-rhizomatous; an older plant usually develops a swollen caudex. This plant spreads by reseeding itself or it can form clonal offspring from rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a somewhat acidic soil containing rocky material or sand. This plant will adapt to cultivation, however it may require staking to prevent it from toppling over.
Range & Habitat: Downy Ragged Goldenrod is native to southern Illinois, where it is uncommon, while elsewhere within the state it is absent (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the northern range-limit of this plant; it occurs primarily in south-central and southeast USA. Habitats include upland woodlands, upland savannas, thinly wooded rocky bluffs, thickets, glades with acidic bedrock, and rocky prairies. In the wooded habitats where this plant occurs, they are typically dominated by oaks and hickories. Outside of Illinois, Downy Ragged Goldenrod also occurs in sandy mixed woodlands (where both hardwood deciduous trees and conifers are present). This plant is normally found in high quality natural areas. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial in maintaining its populations.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about the floral-faunal relationships of Downy Ragged Goldenrod specifically. This goldenrod is a significant source of nectar for migrating Monarch butterflies in Arkansas (Rudolph et al., 2006) and the larvae of a leaf beetle, Microrhopala excavata, mine its leaves (Clark et al., 2004). For goldenrods (Solidago spp.) in general, the nectar and pollen of the flowerheads attract a wide variety of insects, including honeybees, bumblebees, little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), leaf-cutter bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees, masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Andrenid bees, wasps, Syrphid flies and other flies, butterflies, skippers, and beetles. Several Andrenid bees are oligoleges (specialist pollinators) of goldenrods; this includes Andrena hirticincta, Andrena nubecula, Andrena placata, Andrena simplex, and Andrena solidaginis. In addition, a plasterer bee, Colletes simulans armata, is an oligolege of goldenrods. A wide variety of insects feed destructively on the foliage, flowerheads, stems, roots, and plant juices of various goldenrods. These species include leaf beetles (Microrhopala spp., Ophraella spp., Trirhabda spp.), larvae of leaf-miner flies (Calycomyza spp.), larvae of gall flies (Asteromyia spp., Rhopalomyia spp.), plant bugs (Lygus spp., Polymerus spp., Slaterocoris spp.), Corythucha marmorata (Goldenrod Lace Bug), aphids (Uroleucon spp.), treehoppers (Stictocephala spp.), Aonidomytilus solidaginis (Goldenrod Scale), larvae of Gelechiid moths (Dichomeris spp.), larvae of Schinia nundina (Goldenrod Flower Moth) and other Noctuid moths, larvae of Tortricid moths (Epiblema spp., Eucosma spp., Phaneta spp.), and grasshoppers (Melanoplus spp.); see Clark et al. (2004), Spencer & Steyskal (1986), Felt (1917), Aldrich & Osten-Sacken (1905), Knight (1941), Watson (1928), Wheeler et al. (1983), Cranshaw (2004), Hottes & Frison (1931), Blackman & Eastop (2013), Dennis (1952), Covell (1984/2005), Miller (1987), and Vickery & Kevan (1985) for more information. Vertebrate animals use goldenrods as a source of food to a more limited extent. The seeds of these plants are eaten by such birds as the Indigo Bunting, American Goldfinch, Slate-colored Junco, and Tree Sparrow; the Greater Prairie Chicken feeds on the foliage and flowerheads (DeVore et al., 2004; Martin et al., 1951/1961; Yeatter, 1943). Occasionally, the White-tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit also feed on the young foliage of goldenrods (Sotala & Kirkpatrick, 1973; Martin et al., 1951/1961). These plants are a source of food for the Prairie Vole (Cole & Batzli, 1979) and probably other voles.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Sometimes this species is called 'Downy Goldenrod.' There is some variability in the width of leaves, presence of teeth on the leaves, abundance of pubescence, and presence of glandular hairs on this goldenrod across its range. Downy Ragged Goldenrod (Solidago petiolaris) is easy to identify in Illinois because of the recurved phyllaries (floral bracts) of its flowerheads; this is the only goldenrod within the state that has this characteristic, and it is rare among goldenrods (Solidago spp.) elsewhere. One species with this characteristic is Stout Goldenrod (Solidago squarrosa). This latter species is found primarily in northeastern United States. Stout Goldenrod has larger lower leaves than Downy Ragged Goldenrod (Solidago petiolaris), and its lower leaves have more teeth. Overall, it is a less hairy plant than Downy Ragged Goldenrod. The remaining goldenrod with recurved phyllaries, Wright's Goldenrod (Solidago wrightii), is difficult to distinguish from Downy Ragged Goldenrod. Because Wright's Goldenrod occurs some distance away in the southwestern area of the United States, it won't be considered any further.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月05日
Description: This herbaceous perennial wildflower overwinters as a rosette of semi-evergreen leaves. Beginning in mid- to late spring, it bolts to become about 1¼–3' tall by autumn. The central stem is light green (sometimes with streaks of light purple), terete, evenly short-pubescent, erect to ascending, and mostly unbranched, although short secondary stems often develop from the upper leaf axils. Alternate leaves occur along the entire length of the central stem, becoming gradually smaller as they ascend. Individual leaves are 1¼–3¼" long and 1–2¾" across (about 1.2–2 times as long as wide); they are ovate to broadly ovate with rather flattened serrated teeth along their margins. The tips of the leaves are broadly acute, while their bases taper somewhat abruptly to short winged petioles. The winged margins of the petioles are widest where they join the leaf blades, but disappear where they join the stems. The upper leaf surface is medium to dark green and sparsely short-hairy to nearly glabrous, while the lower leaf surface is light green and sparsely to moderate short-pubescent. The lower leaf surface is more pubescent along the undersides of major veins than between the veins. Leaf venation is pinnate with a prominent central vein; 2 prominent lateral veins are present on some leaves but not others.
The central stem terminates in a pyramidal panicle of flowerheads that is up to 1¼' long and 1' across; the panicle is usually widest toward the lower bottom. In response to the weight of this inflorescence, there is a tendency for the entire plant to arch to one side. Relative to the orientation of the central branch of the panicle, the lateral branches are mostly ascending or ascending-arching. The branchlets terminating in flowerheads are up to 1/3" (8 mm.) long and they bend upward to hold the flowerheads in an erect position, regardless of the orientation of the panicle. Both the branches and branchlets of the inflorescence are light to medium green, terete, and densely short-pubescent. Interspersed along the branches of the inflorescence are leafy bracts up to 1" long and ¾" across; the leafy bracts are oval, broadly elliptic, obovate, or ovate in shape, while their margins are toothless. Along the terminal branchlets, there are a few leafy bractlets up to 1/8" (3 mm.) long that are green, broadly oblong in shape, and scale-like in appearance. Both the leafy bracts and leafy bractlets are medium to dark green and densely short-pubescent along their lower sides. The flowerheads (including both their involucres and florets) are about ¼" (5-6 mm.) tall and ¼" (5-6 mm.) across. Each flowerhead has 4-7 disk florets that are surrounded by 4-6 ray florets. The corollas of the disk florets are yellow and short-tubular in shape with 5 arching lobes at their apices. The petaloid rays of the ray florets are yellow, widely spreading and short-oblong in shape with 1 or 2 shallow notches at their tips. The base of each flowerhead is surrounded by scale-like phyllaries (floral bracts) in about 3 irregular series. These phyllaries are unequal in size, light green, oblong with rounded or bluntly acute tips, and appressed to together; their margins are short-ciliate. Both the disk florets and ray florets are perfect.
The blooming period occurs during early to mid-autumn, lasting about one month. Much smaller and sparsely branched panicles of flowerheads may bloom from short leafy stems that develop from the axils of the upper leaves. Fertile florets are replaced by small achenes with sessile tufts of white hair; they are distributed by the wind. The achenes are about 1.5–2 mm. long and narrowly bullet-shaped. The root system consists of a short branching rootstock, sometimes forming a small caudex on older robust plants. Sometimes clonal plants are produced from short stout rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to moderate shade, moist to dry conditions, and calcareous soil containing clay, loam, or rocky material. This uncommon goldenrod, notwithstanding its restricted range, adapts readily to flower gardens in a variety of situations.
Range & Habitat: The native Drummond's Goldenrod is restricted to the border counties of southwest Illinois, where it is uncommon (see Distribution Map). This goldenrod is a Midwestern endemic plant that is found primarily in Missouri and Arkansas. Habitats include borders of wooded bluffs, openings in rocky wooded bluffs, limestone glades, ledges and tops of limestone cliffs, and crevices of limestone cliffs. The bluffs and cliffs are typically located along rivers (the Mississippi River in the case of Illinois). This conservative species is found primarily in high quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: Very little information is available about floral-faunal relationships for Drummond's Goldenrod. However, goldenrods (Solidago spp.) in general attract a wide variety of insects to their flowerheads. This includes honeybees, bumblebees, cuckoo bees (Epeolus spp.), leaf-cutter bees (Megachile spp.), long-horned bees (Melissodes spp.), little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), green metallic bees (Augochlorella spp.), Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.), plasterer bees (Colletes spp.), masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.), dagger bees (Perdita spp., Heterosarus spp.), ground beetles (Lebia spp.), ladybird beetles (Hippodamia spp.), Sphecid wasps, Vespid wasps, Tiphiid wasps, Syrphid flies, bee flies (Bombyliidae), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Sarcophaga spp.), blow flies (Lucilia spp.), Muscid flies, butterflies, and day-flying moths (Robertson, 1929, & others). Other insects feed on the leaves, plant juices, and other parts of goldenrods. The larvae of a leaf beetle, Microrhopala excavata, have been observed to mine the leaves of Drummond's Goldenrod. Other insect feeders of goldenrods include other leaf beetles (Ophraella spp., Trirhabda spp.), larvae of leaf-mining flies (Calycomyza spp.), larvae of gall flies (Asteromyia spp., Rhopalomyia spp.), plant bugs (Lygus spp., Plagiognathus spp., Slaterocoris spp.), stink bugs (Euschistus spp.), aphids (Uroleucon spp.), treehoppers (Stictocephala spp.), grasshoppers (Melanoplus spp.), larvae of owlet moths (Cucullia spp.), larvae of Geometer moths (various species), and larvae of Tortrix moths (Epiblema spp., Eucosma spp., Phaneta spp.). Among vertebrate animals, the seeds of goldenrods are eaten by such songbirds as the Eastern Goldfinch, Slate-colored Junco, Tree Sparrow, and Indigo Bunting (Martin et al., 1951/1961; DeVore et al., 2004). The White-tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit sometimes feed on the foliage of these plants, while the Woodland Vole and other voles feed on both the foliage and seeds (Martin et al., 1951/1961).
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is one of the best goldenrods (Solidago spp.) for ornamental gardens. It should be cultivated more often. Drummond's Goldenrod resembles many other goldenrod species, but it can be distinguished as follows: 1) the leaves of Drummond's Goldenrod are unusually wide, sometimes they are almost as wide as they are across, 2) the leafy bracts of the inflorescence of Drummond's Goldenrod are also unusually wide, 3) its stems are evenly short-pubescent, rather than hairless or hairy in longitudinal lines, 4) the phyllaries, or floral bracts, of its flowerheads have either bluntly acute or rounded tips, 5) the branches of the terminal inflorescence spread rather widely, and 6) the habitats of this goldenrod are largely restricted to riverside bluffs, limestone glades, and limestone cliffs. Of the preceding characteristics, #1 and #6 above are the most distinctive. Some authors state that the leaves of this goldenrod have 3 prominent veins (a central vein and 2 lateral veins) – while this is true for some leaves, not all leaves have this characteristic.
The central stem terminates in a pyramidal panicle of flowerheads that is up to 1¼' long and 1' across; the panicle is usually widest toward the lower bottom. In response to the weight of this inflorescence, there is a tendency for the entire plant to arch to one side. Relative to the orientation of the central branch of the panicle, the lateral branches are mostly ascending or ascending-arching. The branchlets terminating in flowerheads are up to 1/3" (8 mm.) long and they bend upward to hold the flowerheads in an erect position, regardless of the orientation of the panicle. Both the branches and branchlets of the inflorescence are light to medium green, terete, and densely short-pubescent. Interspersed along the branches of the inflorescence are leafy bracts up to 1" long and ¾" across; the leafy bracts are oval, broadly elliptic, obovate, or ovate in shape, while their margins are toothless. Along the terminal branchlets, there are a few leafy bractlets up to 1/8" (3 mm.) long that are green, broadly oblong in shape, and scale-like in appearance. Both the leafy bracts and leafy bractlets are medium to dark green and densely short-pubescent along their lower sides. The flowerheads (including both their involucres and florets) are about ¼" (5-6 mm.) tall and ¼" (5-6 mm.) across. Each flowerhead has 4-7 disk florets that are surrounded by 4-6 ray florets. The corollas of the disk florets are yellow and short-tubular in shape with 5 arching lobes at their apices. The petaloid rays of the ray florets are yellow, widely spreading and short-oblong in shape with 1 or 2 shallow notches at their tips. The base of each flowerhead is surrounded by scale-like phyllaries (floral bracts) in about 3 irregular series. These phyllaries are unequal in size, light green, oblong with rounded or bluntly acute tips, and appressed to together; their margins are short-ciliate. Both the disk florets and ray florets are perfect.
The blooming period occurs during early to mid-autumn, lasting about one month. Much smaller and sparsely branched panicles of flowerheads may bloom from short leafy stems that develop from the axils of the upper leaves. Fertile florets are replaced by small achenes with sessile tufts of white hair; they are distributed by the wind. The achenes are about 1.5–2 mm. long and narrowly bullet-shaped. The root system consists of a short branching rootstock, sometimes forming a small caudex on older robust plants. Sometimes clonal plants are produced from short stout rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to moderate shade, moist to dry conditions, and calcareous soil containing clay, loam, or rocky material. This uncommon goldenrod, notwithstanding its restricted range, adapts readily to flower gardens in a variety of situations.
Range & Habitat: The native Drummond's Goldenrod is restricted to the border counties of southwest Illinois, where it is uncommon (see Distribution Map). This goldenrod is a Midwestern endemic plant that is found primarily in Missouri and Arkansas. Habitats include borders of wooded bluffs, openings in rocky wooded bluffs, limestone glades, ledges and tops of limestone cliffs, and crevices of limestone cliffs. The bluffs and cliffs are typically located along rivers (the Mississippi River in the case of Illinois). This conservative species is found primarily in high quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: Very little information is available about floral-faunal relationships for Drummond's Goldenrod. However, goldenrods (Solidago spp.) in general attract a wide variety of insects to their flowerheads. This includes honeybees, bumblebees, cuckoo bees (Epeolus spp.), leaf-cutter bees (Megachile spp.), long-horned bees (Melissodes spp.), little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), green metallic bees (Augochlorella spp.), Halictid bees (Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.), plasterer bees (Colletes spp.), masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.), dagger bees (Perdita spp., Heterosarus spp.), ground beetles (Lebia spp.), ladybird beetles (Hippodamia spp.), Sphecid wasps, Vespid wasps, Tiphiid wasps, Syrphid flies, bee flies (Bombyliidae), Tachinid flies, flesh flies (Sarcophaga spp.), blow flies (Lucilia spp.), Muscid flies, butterflies, and day-flying moths (Robertson, 1929, & others). Other insects feed on the leaves, plant juices, and other parts of goldenrods. The larvae of a leaf beetle, Microrhopala excavata, have been observed to mine the leaves of Drummond's Goldenrod. Other insect feeders of goldenrods include other leaf beetles (Ophraella spp., Trirhabda spp.), larvae of leaf-mining flies (Calycomyza spp.), larvae of gall flies (Asteromyia spp., Rhopalomyia spp.), plant bugs (Lygus spp., Plagiognathus spp., Slaterocoris spp.), stink bugs (Euschistus spp.), aphids (Uroleucon spp.), treehoppers (Stictocephala spp.), grasshoppers (Melanoplus spp.), larvae of owlet moths (Cucullia spp.), larvae of Geometer moths (various species), and larvae of Tortrix moths (Epiblema spp., Eucosma spp., Phaneta spp.). Among vertebrate animals, the seeds of goldenrods are eaten by such songbirds as the Eastern Goldfinch, Slate-colored Junco, Tree Sparrow, and Indigo Bunting (Martin et al., 1951/1961; DeVore et al., 2004). The White-tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit sometimes feed on the foliage of these plants, while the Woodland Vole and other voles feed on both the foliage and seeds (Martin et al., 1951/1961).
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is one of the best goldenrods (Solidago spp.) for ornamental gardens. It should be cultivated more often. Drummond's Goldenrod resembles many other goldenrod species, but it can be distinguished as follows: 1) the leaves of Drummond's Goldenrod are unusually wide, sometimes they are almost as wide as they are across, 2) the leafy bracts of the inflorescence of Drummond's Goldenrod are also unusually wide, 3) its stems are evenly short-pubescent, rather than hairless or hairy in longitudinal lines, 4) the phyllaries, or floral bracts, of its flowerheads have either bluntly acute or rounded tips, 5) the branches of the terminal inflorescence spread rather widely, and 6) the habitats of this goldenrod are largely restricted to riverside bluffs, limestone glades, and limestone cliffs. Of the preceding characteristics, #1 and #6 above are the most distinctive. Some authors state that the leaves of this goldenrod have 3 prominent veins (a central vein and 2 lateral veins) – while this is true for some leaves, not all leaves have this characteristic.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月05日
Description: This climbing non-woody vine is a herbaceous perennial up to 8' long that branches occasionally. The light green to purple stems are terete, slightly speckled, glabrous, and often glaucous. Alternate leaves up to 3½" long and 2½" across occur at intervals along each stem; they are ovate-oval to broadly ovate-lanceolate in shape, smooth along their margins, and parallel-veined. The upper surfaces of the leaves are medium green and glabrous, while their lower surfaces are pale green and hairless. There are no hairs along the raised veins on the leaf undersides. The petioles of the leaves are up to 1¾" long, light green, and hairless. At the base of most petioles, there is a pair of tendrils that can cling to adjacent vegetation or objects for support. At the base of each stem on the vine, there is an appressed to slightly spreading sheath that is usually bladeless.
Individual umbels of flowers are produced from the axils of the middle to upper leaves of each mature vine. Each umbel is connected to the stem by a long stout peduncle about 4-10" long. The peduncles are 4-8 times longer than the petioles of adjacent leaves; they are similar in appearance to the stems. Individual umbels are about 1½–3" across, consisting of 20-120 flowers on slender pedicels; when fully developed, they are globoid in shape. Like other species in this genus, Smooth Carrion Flower is dioecious; some vines produce only staminate (male) flowers, while other vines produce only pistillate (female) flowers. The green to yellowish green staminate flowers are individually about ¼" across, consisting of 6 lanceolate tepals and 6 stamens with white anthers. The green to yellowish green pistillate flowers are individually about ¼" across, consisting of 6 lanceolate tepals and a pistil with 3 flattened stigmata. The tepals of both kinds of flowers are often recurved. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer and lasts about 3 weeks. The flowers often have a carrion-like scent, but itsDistribution Map presence and strength varies with the local ecotype. Staminate flowers wither away after blooming, while pistillate flowers are replaced by globoid fleshy berries. Individual berries are about ¼" across and contain about 3-5 seeds; they are dark blue and glaucous at maturity. At the end of the growing season, the entire vine dies down to the ground.
Cultivation: Smooth Carrion Flower prefers full or partial sun and more or less mesic conditions. It flourishes in different kinds of soil, including those that are rocky or loamy. In a shady situation, this vine may fail to produce flowers.
Range & Habitat: According to official records, Smooth Carrion Flower is rare in Illinois. However, in neighboring states this vine has been found in many counties and it is regarded as more common. It is possible that some records of Smilax lasioneura (Common Carrion Flower) in Illinois are based on misidentifications and it was Smooth Carrion Flower that was observed. These two species are very similar in appearance and easily confused. Habitats of the native Smooth Carrion Flower include savannas, thickets, prairies, rocky upland woodlands, woodland openings, woodland borders, and fence rows. Occasional wildfires appear to be beneficial in managing populations of this species.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated primarily by small bees, miscellaneous flies, and beetles. Fly visitors include Flesh flies, Blow flies, Muscid flies, Syrphid flies, mosquitoes, and other species. The bees suck nectar or collect pollen, while the flies and beetles suck nectar or feed on pollen. The butterfly Megisto cymela (Little Wood Satyr) has been observed sucking nectar from Carrion Flower as well. Insects that feed on the foliage of Smilax spp. (whether Greenbriers or Carrion Flowers) include the flea beetle Pachyonychus paradoxus, the thrips Ctenothrips bridwelli, and the caterpillars of several moths, including Acrolepiopsis incertella (Carrion Flower Moth), Phosphila miselioides (Spotted Phosphila), Phosphila turbulenta (Turbulent Phosphila), and Phyprosopus callitrichoides (Curve-Lined Owlet). In addition to these species, the caterpillars of Papaipema unimoda (Meadow Rue Borer Moth) sometimes bore into the stems of Carrion Flowers. The berries of Smilax spp. are eaten by some upland gamebirds and songbirds (see the Bird Table); the Ruffed Grouse and Wild Turkey also eat the young leaves and buds of these vines. The berries are a minor source of food to some mammals: this includes the Black Bear, Opossum, Raccoon, Fox Squirrel, and Gray Squirrel. The leaves and stems are browsed by the White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit.
Photographic Location: The Loda Cemetery Prairie in the southwest corner of Iroquois County, Illinois.
Comments: Species in the Smilax genus fall into two large groups: woody vines with prickles or bristles (Green Briers, Catbriers) and non-woody vines that are devoid of prickles or bristles (Carrion Flowers). In Illinois, there are 5 species of Carrion Flower that are currently recognized; some of these species were regarded as mere varieties of Smilax herbacea in the past. Smooth Carrion Flower can be distinguished from similar species using one or more of the following criteria: 1) the undersides of its leaves are pale green and totally hairless, 2) its umbel-bearing peduncles are at least 4 times longer than the petioles of adjacent leaves, and 3) it is a climbing or sprawling vine with numerous tendrils. The very similar Smilax lasioneura (Common Carrion Flower) has fine hairs along the veins of its leaf undersides (and sometimes between the veins as well) while its peduncles are less than 4 times the length of the petioles of the adjacent leaves. Another similar species, Smilax pulverulenta (Powdery Carrion Flower), has leaf undersides that are medium green and it also has fine hairs along its veins. The remaining Carrion Flowers in Illinois are shorter vines with an upright habit of growth and they have much fewer, if any, tendrils.
Individual umbels of flowers are produced from the axils of the middle to upper leaves of each mature vine. Each umbel is connected to the stem by a long stout peduncle about 4-10" long. The peduncles are 4-8 times longer than the petioles of adjacent leaves; they are similar in appearance to the stems. Individual umbels are about 1½–3" across, consisting of 20-120 flowers on slender pedicels; when fully developed, they are globoid in shape. Like other species in this genus, Smooth Carrion Flower is dioecious; some vines produce only staminate (male) flowers, while other vines produce only pistillate (female) flowers. The green to yellowish green staminate flowers are individually about ¼" across, consisting of 6 lanceolate tepals and 6 stamens with white anthers. The green to yellowish green pistillate flowers are individually about ¼" across, consisting of 6 lanceolate tepals and a pistil with 3 flattened stigmata. The tepals of both kinds of flowers are often recurved. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer and lasts about 3 weeks. The flowers often have a carrion-like scent, but itsDistribution Map presence and strength varies with the local ecotype. Staminate flowers wither away after blooming, while pistillate flowers are replaced by globoid fleshy berries. Individual berries are about ¼" across and contain about 3-5 seeds; they are dark blue and glaucous at maturity. At the end of the growing season, the entire vine dies down to the ground.
Cultivation: Smooth Carrion Flower prefers full or partial sun and more or less mesic conditions. It flourishes in different kinds of soil, including those that are rocky or loamy. In a shady situation, this vine may fail to produce flowers.
Range & Habitat: According to official records, Smooth Carrion Flower is rare in Illinois. However, in neighboring states this vine has been found in many counties and it is regarded as more common. It is possible that some records of Smilax lasioneura (Common Carrion Flower) in Illinois are based on misidentifications and it was Smooth Carrion Flower that was observed. These two species are very similar in appearance and easily confused. Habitats of the native Smooth Carrion Flower include savannas, thickets, prairies, rocky upland woodlands, woodland openings, woodland borders, and fence rows. Occasional wildfires appear to be beneficial in managing populations of this species.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated primarily by small bees, miscellaneous flies, and beetles. Fly visitors include Flesh flies, Blow flies, Muscid flies, Syrphid flies, mosquitoes, and other species. The bees suck nectar or collect pollen, while the flies and beetles suck nectar or feed on pollen. The butterfly Megisto cymela (Little Wood Satyr) has been observed sucking nectar from Carrion Flower as well. Insects that feed on the foliage of Smilax spp. (whether Greenbriers or Carrion Flowers) include the flea beetle Pachyonychus paradoxus, the thrips Ctenothrips bridwelli, and the caterpillars of several moths, including Acrolepiopsis incertella (Carrion Flower Moth), Phosphila miselioides (Spotted Phosphila), Phosphila turbulenta (Turbulent Phosphila), and Phyprosopus callitrichoides (Curve-Lined Owlet). In addition to these species, the caterpillars of Papaipema unimoda (Meadow Rue Borer Moth) sometimes bore into the stems of Carrion Flowers. The berries of Smilax spp. are eaten by some upland gamebirds and songbirds (see the Bird Table); the Ruffed Grouse and Wild Turkey also eat the young leaves and buds of these vines. The berries are a minor source of food to some mammals: this includes the Black Bear, Opossum, Raccoon, Fox Squirrel, and Gray Squirrel. The leaves and stems are browsed by the White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit.
Photographic Location: The Loda Cemetery Prairie in the southwest corner of Iroquois County, Illinois.
Comments: Species in the Smilax genus fall into two large groups: woody vines with prickles or bristles (Green Briers, Catbriers) and non-woody vines that are devoid of prickles or bristles (Carrion Flowers). In Illinois, there are 5 species of Carrion Flower that are currently recognized; some of these species were regarded as mere varieties of Smilax herbacea in the past. Smooth Carrion Flower can be distinguished from similar species using one or more of the following criteria: 1) the undersides of its leaves are pale green and totally hairless, 2) its umbel-bearing peduncles are at least 4 times longer than the petioles of adjacent leaves, and 3) it is a climbing or sprawling vine with numerous tendrils. The very similar Smilax lasioneura (Common Carrion Flower) has fine hairs along the veins of its leaf undersides (and sometimes between the veins as well) while its peduncles are less than 4 times the length of the petioles of the adjacent leaves. Another similar species, Smilax pulverulenta (Powdery Carrion Flower), has leaf undersides that are medium green and it also has fine hairs along its veins. The remaining Carrion Flowers in Illinois are shorter vines with an upright habit of growth and they have much fewer, if any, tendrils.
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