文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月24日
The common name "coral bells" is used for several species in the Heuchera genus, comprising hundreds of varieties and hybrids. Coral bells is a traditional perennial foliage plant, with new varieties introduced every year. Native to North America, the plants form round mounds with a woody rootstock or crown at their base and small bell-shaped flowers that begin in spring or early summer on the tall stems. Rich in nectar, the flowers attract hummingbirds and butterflies, plus make nice cut blooms. Their leaves are rounded, lobed, hairy, and evergreen or semi-evergreen, depending on the climate. Besides traditional green-leaved coral bells, newer varieties have leaves in shades of purple, rose, lime green, gold, and more.
Coral bells are best planted in late fall or early spring and will grow at a moderate pace, making them a great option for woodlands, rock gardens, containers, borders, and ground covers. But they are short-lived perennials; unless divided regularly, they will die out in a few years.
Common Name Coral bells, alumroot
Botanical Name Heuchera spp.
Family Saxifragaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 8–18 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Rich, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, white, pink, orange
Hardiness Zones 4–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Coral Bells Care
Coral bells is a fairly easy plant to grow in a semi-shady location in a well-draining, organically rich soil. There are some hybrid cultivars that can do quite well in full sun—though they will require more water in order to thrive. This plant is a good choice for providing color in a landscape filled with shade trees.
While coral bells don't need much maintenance, you can cut back the entire flower stalk after flowering to put the plant's energy into growing more leaves. If the leaves get a bit ragged looking, especially after winter, cut them back and new growth should fill in quickly. Deadheading the faded flowers regularly will help ensure repeated blooming all summer and into fall.
Light
Most varieties of coral bells do best in partial shade, especially in hotter climates. Their color can become washed out if they're kept in full sun, and too much light can cause their leaves to scorch. Keep in mind, coral bells planted in damp shade can be prone to fungal diseases—if your plants start having problems, it's best to move them to a drier site.1
Soil
Coral bells prefer humus-rich soil with a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, somewhere between 6.0 and 7.0. Good drainage is a must, especially in shaded areas, as sitting in the damp soil will cause the crown of the plant to rot.2
Water
This plant has medium water needs and likes consistently moist soil. Established plants will tolerate some drought, but an inch of water per week is the best way to keep them happy. If you grow your coral bells in full sun, plan to give them extra water—their shallow roots will need extra moisture during hot, sunny days.
Temperature and Humidity
Coral bells are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 9, although the exact hardiness range does depend on the variety you're growing and its parentage. Some Heucheras are only hardy to zone 7, while others do well in cold but don't perform well south of zone 6. Most coral bells prefer relatively dry air, but Heuchera villosa, a native of the southeastern U.S., thrives on both heat and high humidity.
In regions with frigid winters, coral bells crowns can heave above the soil line in the winter. Winter mulching will help prevent the freezing/thawing cycle that pushes the plants up, and you should check periodically to make sure the roots are not exposed.
Fertilizer
Feed coral bells in the spring with a 1/2-inch layer of compost or a light amount of slow-release fertilizer. This plant has light feeding needs; you should avoid heavy applications of quick-release fertilizers, as this will inhibit flowering. Container-grown coral bells benefit from feeding with a water-soluble fertilizer to replenish nutrients that leach from the soil. For the amount, follow the product label instructions.
Types Coral Bells
Several different species of Heuchera, including H. americana, H. sanguinea, H. villosa, and H. parviflora, are commonly sold in the trade, along with named cultivars of each species. H. sanguina is regarded as the best species for ornamental purposes and is the one most often sold as coral bells; the other species are more often known as alumroot. The species plants have medium-green leaves, but 'Dale's Strain' and 'Purple Palace' were two of the first cultivars to offer reddish bronze and purple foliage.3
But even more popular are the many named cultivars derived from cross-species hybridization. These often simply carry the Heuchera label. The exact parentage of hybrids is sometimes lost, but H. americana and H. sanguina are thought to be the most common parent species. The most notable differences between varieties can be seen in their foliage color and texture variations. There are dozens of these cultivars, including:
Heuchera 'Autumn Leaves': As hinted at by its name, the leaves on this hybrid variety change color through the seasons, from red to caramel to ruby.
Heuchera 'Chocolate Ruffles': This hybrid variety has ruffled leaves with rich chocolaty color on the top and deep burgundy on the bottom.
Heuchera 'Green Spice': This hardy hybrid has large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
Heuchera 'Marmalade': Another frilly hybrid cultivar, the leaves on this version appear in shades ranging from umber to deep sienna.
Heuchera 'Citronelle; This variety has bright yellowish-green leaves that are excellent for brightening shady areas.
Heuchera 'Electric Lime': This striking variety has bright green leaves with blood-red veins.
Heuchera 'Fire Chief': Bright red spring foliage slowly deepens to crimson as the season progresses.
Propagating Coral Bells
Coral bells is most often propagated by dividing the root clumps. Either fall or spring division will work, though many gardeners prefer fall. Heuchera plants often produce small offsets around the parent plant, and it's an easy matter to carefully dig up these offsets and replant them. The root crowns of the divisions should be planted so they are just barely covered with soil.5
Heuchera plants are fairly short-lived, and this division should be done every three or four years in order to prevent them from dying out. To propagate mature plants:
Dig up the entire root clump with a shovel in fall or spring.
Cut the root clump into pieces, each having several growth shoots. The woody center portion can be discarded.
Prepare new planting sites by blending in plenty of compost or peat moss, then replant the divisions, just barely covering the root crowns.
How to Grow Coral Bells From Seed
You can start coral bells from seed, but results can be irregular if you are collecting seeds from hybrid plants. Commercial seeds will produce more predictable results. If you want to propagate plants by collecting seeds, it's best to start with pure species plants rather than nursery hybrids. Pure species are easiest to obtain from specialty nurseries or online retailers.
When starting seed, sprinkle the seed on the surface of the soil in late fall or early spring, making sure not to cover the seed as they need light to germinate. You can also start seeds indoors a couple of months before you plan to transplant. Coral bells seeds take two to eight weeks to germinate.
Once established, harden off the plants for 10 days, then transplant the seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. You can plant container-grown coral bells any time after the danger of frost has passed. Keep them well-watered their first year—other than that, they shouldn't require more than some relief from the extreme heat and rich, well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bells
Although it's not typical to grow perennials such as coral bells in containers, it certainly can be done, and this plant does quite well when grown that way. Choose a container that has good drainage and a potting mix that drains freely. When grown in containers, keep the root crown slightly higher than the soil level. If you want to overwinter these plants in pots, they will need to be moved to a protected location to shield them from cold winter temperatures. During the winter months, withhold water and allow the plants to go dormant.6
While the spectacular foliage might tempt you to try growing coral bells as a houseplant, they do not lend themselves to this use. These woodland plants can do fine in outdoor containers where they receive a dormant period over winter, but they rarely are successful as permanent indoor houseplants.
Overwintering
In warmer climates, this plant often remains evergreen through the winter. Because the roots are shallow, coral bells can be prone to winter root heaving in colder climates. A light mulch over the plants can prevent this. In other regions, overwintering simply involves cleaning up plant debris to prevent fungi from overwintering.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coral bells is usually a fairly carefree plant, but it can be affected by various fungal diseases, including powdery mildew, rust, and bacterial leaf spot.7
Potential insect problems include weevils and foliar nematodes. The larvae of the black vine weevil can bore into the crowns and roots of coral bells in late summer or early fall, causing infected plants to wilt and droop.8 You should be able to see the larvae on the plant and remove them by hand and destroy them. If an infection persists, treat your plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil.
How to Get Coral Bells to Bloom
Sparse blooming is usually not terribly concerning with these plants, since it is the foliage color that is of greatest appeal. But the stems of airy, delicate red or pink flowers certainly do have ornamental merit, and if planted in good growing conditions, you can expect repeated blooms from late spring into fall. Avoid overfeeding these plants, which can hinder blossoming as it stimulates foliage development. And some varieties bred to be sun-lovers may not bloom well if they are planted in deep shade.
Common Problems With Coral Bells
Coral bells are generally quite easy to grow, but there are some common cultural problems you may encounter:
Scalded Leaves
Most varieties of coral bells are not keen about growing in full sun, and they may exhibit burned, scorched leaves if they get too much sun, especially in climates with hot summers. Giving plants extra water during hot spells can minimize this scorching.
Plants Die Out After a Few Years
It's sometimes disappointing when a thriving coral bells plant suddenly declines, but this is rather normal, as these are short-lived perennials that usually live only four or five years. You can prolong the lifespan by dividing root clumps every three or four years, which will provide new plants to continue the lineage.
Plants Lift Out of the Ground
Coral bells have shallow root systems with crowns that are slightly exposed. In cold climates, frost heaving can push them out of the ground entirely, which will require you to replant them. A layer of mulch applied just after the ground freezes may help prevent heaving due to repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
FAQ
How should I use coral bells in the landscape?
Coral bells make wonderful edging plants and put on a show when planted in groups. Their foliage is vibrant and saturated and is great for playing up the colors of nearby flowers in the garden—darker purple leaves can make yellow flowers glow, while butterscotch-colored leaves can bring out the tones of simple green leaves.
Are there any coral bells varieties that work well in hot climates?
The more heat-tolerant cultivars often have Heuchera villosa in their parentage, which is a notably heat-tolerant species. Gardeners as far south as zone 9 usually have good success with varieties based on this species. Two excellent cultivars known for their heat tolerance are ‘Caramel’ and ‘Citronelle’. H. villosa is a native plant in the southeastern U.S. and hardy to zone 7.9
How about cold-winter gardens—are there any varieties that work in zone 3?
Heuchera sanguinea and its direct cultivars are considered hardy to zone 3. But you will need to make sure of the parentage, as many nursery hybrids have other species among their parents, which are not as cold-hardy. To buy pure H. sanguinea plants, you may need to shop at a specialty nursery.
Coral bells are best planted in late fall or early spring and will grow at a moderate pace, making them a great option for woodlands, rock gardens, containers, borders, and ground covers. But they are short-lived perennials; unless divided regularly, they will die out in a few years.
Common Name Coral bells, alumroot
Botanical Name Heuchera spp.
Family Saxifragaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 8–18 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Rich, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, white, pink, orange
Hardiness Zones 4–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Coral Bells Care
Coral bells is a fairly easy plant to grow in a semi-shady location in a well-draining, organically rich soil. There are some hybrid cultivars that can do quite well in full sun—though they will require more water in order to thrive. This plant is a good choice for providing color in a landscape filled with shade trees.
While coral bells don't need much maintenance, you can cut back the entire flower stalk after flowering to put the plant's energy into growing more leaves. If the leaves get a bit ragged looking, especially after winter, cut them back and new growth should fill in quickly. Deadheading the faded flowers regularly will help ensure repeated blooming all summer and into fall.
Light
Most varieties of coral bells do best in partial shade, especially in hotter climates. Their color can become washed out if they're kept in full sun, and too much light can cause their leaves to scorch. Keep in mind, coral bells planted in damp shade can be prone to fungal diseases—if your plants start having problems, it's best to move them to a drier site.1
Soil
Coral bells prefer humus-rich soil with a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, somewhere between 6.0 and 7.0. Good drainage is a must, especially in shaded areas, as sitting in the damp soil will cause the crown of the plant to rot.2
Water
This plant has medium water needs and likes consistently moist soil. Established plants will tolerate some drought, but an inch of water per week is the best way to keep them happy. If you grow your coral bells in full sun, plan to give them extra water—their shallow roots will need extra moisture during hot, sunny days.
Temperature and Humidity
Coral bells are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 9, although the exact hardiness range does depend on the variety you're growing and its parentage. Some Heucheras are only hardy to zone 7, while others do well in cold but don't perform well south of zone 6. Most coral bells prefer relatively dry air, but Heuchera villosa, a native of the southeastern U.S., thrives on both heat and high humidity.
In regions with frigid winters, coral bells crowns can heave above the soil line in the winter. Winter mulching will help prevent the freezing/thawing cycle that pushes the plants up, and you should check periodically to make sure the roots are not exposed.
Fertilizer
Feed coral bells in the spring with a 1/2-inch layer of compost or a light amount of slow-release fertilizer. This plant has light feeding needs; you should avoid heavy applications of quick-release fertilizers, as this will inhibit flowering. Container-grown coral bells benefit from feeding with a water-soluble fertilizer to replenish nutrients that leach from the soil. For the amount, follow the product label instructions.
Types Coral Bells
Several different species of Heuchera, including H. americana, H. sanguinea, H. villosa, and H. parviflora, are commonly sold in the trade, along with named cultivars of each species. H. sanguina is regarded as the best species for ornamental purposes and is the one most often sold as coral bells; the other species are more often known as alumroot. The species plants have medium-green leaves, but 'Dale's Strain' and 'Purple Palace' were two of the first cultivars to offer reddish bronze and purple foliage.3
But even more popular are the many named cultivars derived from cross-species hybridization. These often simply carry the Heuchera label. The exact parentage of hybrids is sometimes lost, but H. americana and H. sanguina are thought to be the most common parent species. The most notable differences between varieties can be seen in their foliage color and texture variations. There are dozens of these cultivars, including:
Heuchera 'Autumn Leaves': As hinted at by its name, the leaves on this hybrid variety change color through the seasons, from red to caramel to ruby.
Heuchera 'Chocolate Ruffles': This hybrid variety has ruffled leaves with rich chocolaty color on the top and deep burgundy on the bottom.
Heuchera 'Green Spice': This hardy hybrid has large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
Heuchera 'Marmalade': Another frilly hybrid cultivar, the leaves on this version appear in shades ranging from umber to deep sienna.
Heuchera 'Citronelle; This variety has bright yellowish-green leaves that are excellent for brightening shady areas.
Heuchera 'Electric Lime': This striking variety has bright green leaves with blood-red veins.
Heuchera 'Fire Chief': Bright red spring foliage slowly deepens to crimson as the season progresses.
Propagating Coral Bells
Coral bells is most often propagated by dividing the root clumps. Either fall or spring division will work, though many gardeners prefer fall. Heuchera plants often produce small offsets around the parent plant, and it's an easy matter to carefully dig up these offsets and replant them. The root crowns of the divisions should be planted so they are just barely covered with soil.5
Heuchera plants are fairly short-lived, and this division should be done every three or four years in order to prevent them from dying out. To propagate mature plants:
Dig up the entire root clump with a shovel in fall or spring.
Cut the root clump into pieces, each having several growth shoots. The woody center portion can be discarded.
Prepare new planting sites by blending in plenty of compost or peat moss, then replant the divisions, just barely covering the root crowns.
How to Grow Coral Bells From Seed
You can start coral bells from seed, but results can be irregular if you are collecting seeds from hybrid plants. Commercial seeds will produce more predictable results. If you want to propagate plants by collecting seeds, it's best to start with pure species plants rather than nursery hybrids. Pure species are easiest to obtain from specialty nurseries or online retailers.
When starting seed, sprinkle the seed on the surface of the soil in late fall or early spring, making sure not to cover the seed as they need light to germinate. You can also start seeds indoors a couple of months before you plan to transplant. Coral bells seeds take two to eight weeks to germinate.
Once established, harden off the plants for 10 days, then transplant the seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. You can plant container-grown coral bells any time after the danger of frost has passed. Keep them well-watered their first year—other than that, they shouldn't require more than some relief from the extreme heat and rich, well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bells
Although it's not typical to grow perennials such as coral bells in containers, it certainly can be done, and this plant does quite well when grown that way. Choose a container that has good drainage and a potting mix that drains freely. When grown in containers, keep the root crown slightly higher than the soil level. If you want to overwinter these plants in pots, they will need to be moved to a protected location to shield them from cold winter temperatures. During the winter months, withhold water and allow the plants to go dormant.6
While the spectacular foliage might tempt you to try growing coral bells as a houseplant, they do not lend themselves to this use. These woodland plants can do fine in outdoor containers where they receive a dormant period over winter, but they rarely are successful as permanent indoor houseplants.
Overwintering
In warmer climates, this plant often remains evergreen through the winter. Because the roots are shallow, coral bells can be prone to winter root heaving in colder climates. A light mulch over the plants can prevent this. In other regions, overwintering simply involves cleaning up plant debris to prevent fungi from overwintering.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coral bells is usually a fairly carefree plant, but it can be affected by various fungal diseases, including powdery mildew, rust, and bacterial leaf spot.7
Potential insect problems include weevils and foliar nematodes. The larvae of the black vine weevil can bore into the crowns and roots of coral bells in late summer or early fall, causing infected plants to wilt and droop.8 You should be able to see the larvae on the plant and remove them by hand and destroy them. If an infection persists, treat your plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil.
How to Get Coral Bells to Bloom
Sparse blooming is usually not terribly concerning with these plants, since it is the foliage color that is of greatest appeal. But the stems of airy, delicate red or pink flowers certainly do have ornamental merit, and if planted in good growing conditions, you can expect repeated blooms from late spring into fall. Avoid overfeeding these plants, which can hinder blossoming as it stimulates foliage development. And some varieties bred to be sun-lovers may not bloom well if they are planted in deep shade.
Common Problems With Coral Bells
Coral bells are generally quite easy to grow, but there are some common cultural problems you may encounter:
Scalded Leaves
Most varieties of coral bells are not keen about growing in full sun, and they may exhibit burned, scorched leaves if they get too much sun, especially in climates with hot summers. Giving plants extra water during hot spells can minimize this scorching.
Plants Die Out After a Few Years
It's sometimes disappointing when a thriving coral bells plant suddenly declines, but this is rather normal, as these are short-lived perennials that usually live only four or five years. You can prolong the lifespan by dividing root clumps every three or four years, which will provide new plants to continue the lineage.
Plants Lift Out of the Ground
Coral bells have shallow root systems with crowns that are slightly exposed. In cold climates, frost heaving can push them out of the ground entirely, which will require you to replant them. A layer of mulch applied just after the ground freezes may help prevent heaving due to repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
FAQ
How should I use coral bells in the landscape?
Coral bells make wonderful edging plants and put on a show when planted in groups. Their foliage is vibrant and saturated and is great for playing up the colors of nearby flowers in the garden—darker purple leaves can make yellow flowers glow, while butterscotch-colored leaves can bring out the tones of simple green leaves.
Are there any coral bells varieties that work well in hot climates?
The more heat-tolerant cultivars often have Heuchera villosa in their parentage, which is a notably heat-tolerant species. Gardeners as far south as zone 9 usually have good success with varieties based on this species. Two excellent cultivars known for their heat tolerance are ‘Caramel’ and ‘Citronelle’. H. villosa is a native plant in the southeastern U.S. and hardy to zone 7.9
How about cold-winter gardens—are there any varieties that work in zone 3?
Heuchera sanguinea and its direct cultivars are considered hardy to zone 3. But you will need to make sure of the parentage, as many nursery hybrids have other species among their parents, which are not as cold-hardy. To buy pure H. sanguinea plants, you may need to shop at a specialty nursery.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月08日
Flowering ornamentals are a reminder of a new spring for so many, and Magnolias are some of the best reminders of the new season that we have. Among a genus that is known for its beauty, some species can take your breath away and others just make you want to breathe it all in.
The stunning Japanese native, Anise Magnolia, dazzles your eyes with white, delicate, star-like blossoms that are pre-cursors to the leaves of this deciduous magnolia. The flowers themselves provide enough of a wow factor, but as you come within range of the aroma, you will be surrounded by the mixture of an anise-lemon smell that is intoxicating. Even the bark will provide you with the fragrance when scratched.
To identify anise magnolia, besides the aroma, you can look for the blooms. The flowers are six-sided “petals” called tepals, with a hint of pink at the base. Its flowers blossom from bare branches in the early spring before the leaves unfurl.
The leaves are thin and willow-like, which is where the plant gets its botanical name. Salicifolia is a Latin word meaning willow-leafed. The leaves are unlike most other magnolias, so this is another easy way to identify the tree beside the aroma.
In the late summer, it bears fruits which are interesting to look at even before they ripen to startling red seed pods. They contrast with the dark green of the tree’s leaves. Later, In the fall the leaves turn a shocking golden-yellow before they are shed in the cooler weather. This is when the warming scents of lemon are given off by a scratch and sniff session on the aromatic bark, now unhindered by foliage.
Botanical Name Magnolia salicifolia
Common Name Anise magnolia, Willow Leaf Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 20-30 feet
Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part shade
Soil Type Moist,Well Drained
Soil pH 4.5 -6.5
Bloom Time Early Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4b-9a
Native Range Japan
Anise Magnolia Care
Anise magnolia are relatively easy to grow trees. The biggest concern is finding a suitable place that is somewhat shielded from wind and with moist soil that has adequate drainage. Also, it is a very ornamental tree so consider giving it a spot of prominence that can be seen, admired, and inhaled. Once the perfect spot is selected, you are ready to get your hands dirty and get to planting.
The first thing you will do is dig a hole twice as wide as your tree’s root ball, or container, and just as deep. Gently remove the tree from its burlap or container and set it in the hole making sure to keep it in an upright position as you fill the hole and compress the soil. Lightly mulch to a depth of three inches to the dripline of the tree making sure that no mulch touches the trunk of the tree.
If the tree is far from a water source, make a berm around the mulch to retain water and moisture, and soak the tree thoroughly. Water your magnolia regularly for the first year, until established.
Light
Your anise magnolia can handle full sun if it is watered regularly or is in an area with rich moist soil. If it does not have particularly moist soil, aim to plant it in a spot that gets part shade.
Soil
The soil you use to plant your magnolia is going to be vital to its success and its best to test it for drainage ability.
Dig a hole 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but, this time, see how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil, the water will go down at a rate of about one inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions.
A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and is a yellow flag that you may need to improve drainage with amendments, plant in a bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet soil conditions.
Acidic soil is best, but that can be handled later with amendments if your soil is not up to par. But testing the soil before planting, so you are ahead of the game, might not be a bad idea.
Water
During the first year or so, water your magnolia regularly as it becomes established. After the tree has become established, it should not need extra watering unless your area is experiencing drought conditions or is especially arid.
Temperature and Humidity
Anise magnolias do not do well in particularly cold or hot weather. They are frost hardy but do not like extremes. In summer temperatures they enjoy consistently moist soil, so they thrive with the occasional rainstorm.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Anise in late winter or early spring with a slow-release shrub or tree food that contains sulfur and iron. A second application can be given in late summer.
The anise magnolia is not toxic. The dish has fallen out of favor, but during the colonial era the petals of the magnolia flowers were once eaten. They have a very strong flavor and taste much like they smell.
The preparation was to dilute the flavor by pickling the petals in a brine that was much like a sweet and sour pickle brine. The dried leaves of the magnolia were also commonly used much like the bay leaf to flavor soups, stews, and sauces.
Varieties of Anise Magnolia
The anise magnolia is available in several cultivars and has been used to parent many hybrid magnolias, most famously Magnolia x kewensis ‘Wada’s Memory’. If lemon and anise are not your favorite scent and you prefer orange blossom, then the hybrid might be for you. The flowers are different as well, being larger, more profuse, and having a tulip shape.
The stunning Japanese native, Anise Magnolia, dazzles your eyes with white, delicate, star-like blossoms that are pre-cursors to the leaves of this deciduous magnolia. The flowers themselves provide enough of a wow factor, but as you come within range of the aroma, you will be surrounded by the mixture of an anise-lemon smell that is intoxicating. Even the bark will provide you with the fragrance when scratched.
To identify anise magnolia, besides the aroma, you can look for the blooms. The flowers are six-sided “petals” called tepals, with a hint of pink at the base. Its flowers blossom from bare branches in the early spring before the leaves unfurl.
The leaves are thin and willow-like, which is where the plant gets its botanical name. Salicifolia is a Latin word meaning willow-leafed. The leaves are unlike most other magnolias, so this is another easy way to identify the tree beside the aroma.
In the late summer, it bears fruits which are interesting to look at even before they ripen to startling red seed pods. They contrast with the dark green of the tree’s leaves. Later, In the fall the leaves turn a shocking golden-yellow before they are shed in the cooler weather. This is when the warming scents of lemon are given off by a scratch and sniff session on the aromatic bark, now unhindered by foliage.
Botanical Name Magnolia salicifolia
Common Name Anise magnolia, Willow Leaf Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 20-30 feet
Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part shade
Soil Type Moist,Well Drained
Soil pH 4.5 -6.5
Bloom Time Early Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4b-9a
Native Range Japan
Anise Magnolia Care
Anise magnolia are relatively easy to grow trees. The biggest concern is finding a suitable place that is somewhat shielded from wind and with moist soil that has adequate drainage. Also, it is a very ornamental tree so consider giving it a spot of prominence that can be seen, admired, and inhaled. Once the perfect spot is selected, you are ready to get your hands dirty and get to planting.
The first thing you will do is dig a hole twice as wide as your tree’s root ball, or container, and just as deep. Gently remove the tree from its burlap or container and set it in the hole making sure to keep it in an upright position as you fill the hole and compress the soil. Lightly mulch to a depth of three inches to the dripline of the tree making sure that no mulch touches the trunk of the tree.
If the tree is far from a water source, make a berm around the mulch to retain water and moisture, and soak the tree thoroughly. Water your magnolia regularly for the first year, until established.
Light
Your anise magnolia can handle full sun if it is watered regularly or is in an area with rich moist soil. If it does not have particularly moist soil, aim to plant it in a spot that gets part shade.
Soil
The soil you use to plant your magnolia is going to be vital to its success and its best to test it for drainage ability.
Dig a hole 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but, this time, see how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil, the water will go down at a rate of about one inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions.
A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and is a yellow flag that you may need to improve drainage with amendments, plant in a bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet soil conditions.
Acidic soil is best, but that can be handled later with amendments if your soil is not up to par. But testing the soil before planting, so you are ahead of the game, might not be a bad idea.
Water
During the first year or so, water your magnolia regularly as it becomes established. After the tree has become established, it should not need extra watering unless your area is experiencing drought conditions or is especially arid.
Temperature and Humidity
Anise magnolias do not do well in particularly cold or hot weather. They are frost hardy but do not like extremes. In summer temperatures they enjoy consistently moist soil, so they thrive with the occasional rainstorm.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Anise in late winter or early spring with a slow-release shrub or tree food that contains sulfur and iron. A second application can be given in late summer.
The anise magnolia is not toxic. The dish has fallen out of favor, but during the colonial era the petals of the magnolia flowers were once eaten. They have a very strong flavor and taste much like they smell.
The preparation was to dilute the flavor by pickling the petals in a brine that was much like a sweet and sour pickle brine. The dried leaves of the magnolia were also commonly used much like the bay leaf to flavor soups, stews, and sauces.
Varieties of Anise Magnolia
The anise magnolia is available in several cultivars and has been used to parent many hybrid magnolias, most famously Magnolia x kewensis ‘Wada’s Memory’. If lemon and anise are not your favorite scent and you prefer orange blossom, then the hybrid might be for you. The flowers are different as well, being larger, more profuse, and having a tulip shape.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月13日
What are the origins of plant rooting hormones
Since Medieval times plant growers have known that many plants can be propagated from cuttings. The new plants have the same characteristics as the parent plant. Some cuttings root easily, some with difficulty and some never on their own.
In the 1930's horticultural researchers isolated the plant growth regulators which promote rooting of cuttings and improve the root mass of rooted plants. These regulators even produce rooting of some cuttings which do not self root. In 1939, using these revolutionary regulators, Dutch scientists developed rooting products and techniques now used worldwide. The manufacturer, Rhizopon b.v., is the world's largest company solely devoted to plant rooting products and technology.
Select cuttings to improve rooting success
Why do cuttings from the same parent plant root while others do not?
What is the 'best' time to take cuttings?
Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing.
When taking shoot cuttings from the same plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current year shoots may root differently from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have had less sunlight then upper shoots; the upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. In general, younger shoots need less stimulation to root than older shoots and require a more stable propagation environment. Use a lower Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
It is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation, the origin of the cuttings, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and sticking, the date taken, the rooting method used and concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, the conditions at the time cuttings take root, and the relative quality of the roots.
Difficult cuttings CAN be rooted
How can I increase the rooting yield of difficult to root hardwood cuttings?
How do I control the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts to increase yield?
Some cuttings root with difficulty. Lacking success, some growers erroneously increase the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts.
An increased concentration may inhibit root promotion. Try a LOW concentration of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt with an INCREASED basal end immersion time. Increased immersion time allows the cutting to absorb the active ingredients. A low concentration is also economical.
Use the IMMERSE METHOD by immersing the basal end of cuttings approximately 1" into solution for 4-12 hours.
Root cuttings by Quick Dip
How do I use the QUICK DIP METHOD to root herbaceous or woody cuttings?
The QUICK DIP METHOD is a fast treatment method to root cuttings.
Quickly immerse the basal end of the cutting approximately 1" into solution.
Plant immediately. Use rates as suggested on the plant list.
Use fertilizers and fungicides with care
Can I use fertilizers or fungicides with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts do not contain fertilizers or fungicides. Apply these materials based upon plant requirements. When rooting cuttings do not fertilize until after root initiation. Fertilizer salts may dehydrate the cutting. When transplanting you can apply or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts with fertilizer at the same time. Fungicides may inhibit root formation by stressing plant tissue and slowing rooting and plant growth. Use fungicides only as required.
Two easy ways to produce symmetric roots
I use the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD to root herbaceous cuttings such as chrysanthemum. How do I know how much solution to spray?
What is the difference in performance between the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD and TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD?
Using either the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® or TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD, Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts develop symmetric roots on herbaceous plant cuttings. The active ingredients are absorbed into the leaves and stems then transported to the basal end where it induces roots.
When using the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD first plant the cuttings. Spray the leaves with solution until the liquid drips down into the media near the basal end. Use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts at rates suggested on the plant list. For broad leaf cuttings it might be easier to use the TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD. The cutting is immersed a few seconds in the solution. Plant immediately.
Transplants have improved success. Roses have higher flower yield
How do I improve transplanting of bare root plants, plugs, and plants in media?
How many times should I treat plants with Rhizopon or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
How do I increase flower yield when transplanting young rose bushes?
How can I improve transplant success of Christmas trees? I want to improve our reforestation program which requires that conservation plants recover quickly.
Treatment with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts help the rooted plants regenerate roots rapidly so to rapidly absorb water and nutrients. The plants develop a strong early root mass before sprout initiation. Select the method of application based upon practical needs. Treat once at planting time.
For plants in plug or root ball, spray or dip with solution until the media is saturated. For herbaceous plants use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA); for woody plants use about twice this rate.
After treating the roots optionally spray the leaves and stems lightly with a solution using Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA);
Using IMMERSION ABSORPTION, trees, shrubs, and other plants planted in the field, nursery bed, or greenhouse have less transplant shock and stress. Treated young rose bush transplants have earlier and increased flower yield.
Product Selection to make Fresh Rooting Solutions
HORTUS IBA WATER SOLUBLE SALTS
Use the easy to measure powder with water to make your own freshest solutions in any concentration. You can make solutions to over 100,000 ppm IBA active ingredients. The Salts are an economical for making large solution volumes. Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts is an easier to use and registered replacement technical IBA and K-IBA.
These plant rooting products are completely free of potentially phyto-toxic and flammable alcohol. You make solutions from very dilute to extremely concentrated. The solutions are odorless. Both are US EPA registered with WPS Zero Hour REI. Growers can apply the products and remain in the growing area. There is minimum PPE with no notification requirement.
Since Medieval times plant growers have known that many plants can be propagated from cuttings. The new plants have the same characteristics as the parent plant. Some cuttings root easily, some with difficulty and some never on their own.
In the 1930's horticultural researchers isolated the plant growth regulators which promote rooting of cuttings and improve the root mass of rooted plants. These regulators even produce rooting of some cuttings which do not self root. In 1939, using these revolutionary regulators, Dutch scientists developed rooting products and techniques now used worldwide. The manufacturer, Rhizopon b.v., is the world's largest company solely devoted to plant rooting products and technology.
Select cuttings to improve rooting success
Why do cuttings from the same parent plant root while others do not?
What is the 'best' time to take cuttings?
Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing.
When taking shoot cuttings from the same plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current year shoots may root differently from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have had less sunlight then upper shoots; the upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. In general, younger shoots need less stimulation to root than older shoots and require a more stable propagation environment. Use a lower Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
It is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation, the origin of the cuttings, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and sticking, the date taken, the rooting method used and concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, the conditions at the time cuttings take root, and the relative quality of the roots.
Difficult cuttings CAN be rooted
How can I increase the rooting yield of difficult to root hardwood cuttings?
How do I control the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts to increase yield?
Some cuttings root with difficulty. Lacking success, some growers erroneously increase the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts.
An increased concentration may inhibit root promotion. Try a LOW concentration of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt with an INCREASED basal end immersion time. Increased immersion time allows the cutting to absorb the active ingredients. A low concentration is also economical.
Use the IMMERSE METHOD by immersing the basal end of cuttings approximately 1" into solution for 4-12 hours.
Root cuttings by Quick Dip
How do I use the QUICK DIP METHOD to root herbaceous or woody cuttings?
The QUICK DIP METHOD is a fast treatment method to root cuttings.
Quickly immerse the basal end of the cutting approximately 1" into solution.
Plant immediately. Use rates as suggested on the plant list.
Use fertilizers and fungicides with care
Can I use fertilizers or fungicides with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts do not contain fertilizers or fungicides. Apply these materials based upon plant requirements. When rooting cuttings do not fertilize until after root initiation. Fertilizer salts may dehydrate the cutting. When transplanting you can apply or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts with fertilizer at the same time. Fungicides may inhibit root formation by stressing plant tissue and slowing rooting and plant growth. Use fungicides only as required.
Two easy ways to produce symmetric roots
I use the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD to root herbaceous cuttings such as chrysanthemum. How do I know how much solution to spray?
What is the difference in performance between the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD and TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD?
Using either the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® or TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD, Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts develop symmetric roots on herbaceous plant cuttings. The active ingredients are absorbed into the leaves and stems then transported to the basal end where it induces roots.
When using the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD first plant the cuttings. Spray the leaves with solution until the liquid drips down into the media near the basal end. Use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts at rates suggested on the plant list. For broad leaf cuttings it might be easier to use the TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD. The cutting is immersed a few seconds in the solution. Plant immediately.
Transplants have improved success. Roses have higher flower yield
How do I improve transplanting of bare root plants, plugs, and plants in media?
How many times should I treat plants with Rhizopon or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
How do I increase flower yield when transplanting young rose bushes?
How can I improve transplant success of Christmas trees? I want to improve our reforestation program which requires that conservation plants recover quickly.
Treatment with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts help the rooted plants regenerate roots rapidly so to rapidly absorb water and nutrients. The plants develop a strong early root mass before sprout initiation. Select the method of application based upon practical needs. Treat once at planting time.
For plants in plug or root ball, spray or dip with solution until the media is saturated. For herbaceous plants use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA); for woody plants use about twice this rate.
After treating the roots optionally spray the leaves and stems lightly with a solution using Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA);
Using IMMERSION ABSORPTION, trees, shrubs, and other plants planted in the field, nursery bed, or greenhouse have less transplant shock and stress. Treated young rose bush transplants have earlier and increased flower yield.
Product Selection to make Fresh Rooting Solutions
HORTUS IBA WATER SOLUBLE SALTS
Use the easy to measure powder with water to make your own freshest solutions in any concentration. You can make solutions to over 100,000 ppm IBA active ingredients. The Salts are an economical for making large solution volumes. Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts is an easier to use and registered replacement technical IBA and K-IBA.
These plant rooting products are completely free of potentially phyto-toxic and flammable alcohol. You make solutions from very dilute to extremely concentrated. The solutions are odorless. Both are US EPA registered with WPS Zero Hour REI. Growers can apply the products and remain in the growing area. There is minimum PPE with no notification requirement.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月26日
Plants produce new individuals similar to themselves, which is called reproduction. This is a natural phenomenon that plants reproduce and continue species, and it is also one of the basic characteristics of plant life. There are five main propagation methods of flowers: sowing, cutting, rameting, grafting and layering.
1. Sowing and breeding
basic concept
The sowing process is as follows: sterilize the soil in the sun, irrigate it with water, sprinkle the seeds evenly on the soil layer, then choose to cover the soil or not cover the leaves according to the size of the seeds, keep the soil moist, but do not accumulate water, move the flowerpot to the place with scattered light in time after the seeds germinate, and apply some liquid fertilizer, so that the seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2 ~ 3 leaves.
matters need attention
1. The sowing time of flowers is regular. Generally, open-field annual flowers and woody flowers are sown from March to April in spring, and the daily average temperature is stable at 15℃; open-field biennial flowers are mostly sown from August to September in autumn. The sowing date of greenhouse flowers often depends on the required flowering period. There is no strict seasonal restriction, but it is generally necessary to avoid the coldest and hottest seasons.
2. Flower seeds should absorb enough water before germination, and then they can extend radicle and germinate slowly. In order to meet the temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions required for seed germination, it is best to put the seeds in gauze bags before sowing, soak them in warm water at 40℃ for 24 hours, then spread them out on wet gauze, keep the gauze moist, and then sow them after the radicle of the seeds breaks through the seed coat.
3. Flower seeds are divided into four grades: large, medium, small and fine particles. The grain size of large seeds is above 0.5 cm, medium seeds are 0.2 ~ 0.5 cm, small seeds are 0.1 ~ 0.2 cm, and micro seeds are below 0.1 cm. Whether it is large, medium or small seeds, the sowing depth should be 2 ~ 3 times of the seed diameter. Large seeds can be sown in holes, the depth of which is 23 times of the diameter of the seeds, and the soil is flat with the bed surface after sowing; Medium-sized and small-sized seeds are first removed from the bed surface and then covered with a thin layer of soil; fine-sized seeds do not need to be covered with soil.
2. Cutting propagation
basic concept
Cutting propagation means taking a part of vegetative organs of a plant, inserting it into loose and wet soil or fine sand, and using its regeneration ability, making it take root and take branches to become a new plant.
Cuttage propagation
matters need attention
1. As the mother plant of cutting, it is required to have excellent varieties, vigorous growth and no diseases and insect pests, and the growing and aging plants should not be selected as the mother plant of cutting. On the same plant, the cuttings should choose branches whose middle and upper parts are sunny and full, and it is better to have shorter internodes, full bud heads and thick branches and leaves. On the same branch, hardwood cutting should choose the middle and lower parts of branches, because the middle and lower parts store more nutrients, while the tip tissues are often not full.
2. Cutting should be carried out immediately after cutting the sowing strips. Cutting strips such as rose, hibiscus syriacus, and clover, which are cut in late autumn, can be cut well, tied into bundles, buried in flowerpots with wet sand, and placed in a place where the indoor temperature is kept at 0~5℃. Pay attention not to make the sand too dry in winter, and then wait for the early spring of the following year before cutting. Flowers such as Chinese rose can also be cut in plastic shed in winter. Cuttings of succulent plants such as cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for about a week after cutting, and then cut when the cut mouth is slightly dry, otherwise it is easy to rot. Cutting cuttings of Begonia fortunei, oleander, etc., can be soaked in clear water after cutting, and can be directly planted into pots after rooting. For Chinese rose, Milan, etc., dip the lower mouth of cuttings in the injection of vitamin B, and then take it out for a minute or two, so that the liquid medicine can be sucked into cuttings and then inserted into coarse sand. This treatment can promote rooting.
3. After cuttage, management should be strengthened to create good rooting conditions for cuttings. Generally, rooting of flower cuttings requires both soil moisture and air circulation. Cover the cutting pots or beds with a cover made of glass plate or plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity. Small bricks should be placed under the hood to allow air to flow in. In summer and early autumn, the cuttage pots should be placed in shade during the day and in the open air at night; when the temperature is not enough in early, spring, late autumn and winter, they can be placed in warm places or greenhouses, but attention must be paid to the adjustment of temperature and humidity. In the future, according to the rooting speed of cuttings, gradually strengthen the illumination.
3. Branch propagation
basic concept
Ramet propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clumping branches, sucking buds and creeping branches of flowers from their mother plants and planting them as independent new plants, which is generally applicable to perennial flowers. The ramet method can be divided into two types: full division method and half division method.
division propagation
Full division method: dig out all the roots of the mother plants from the soil, and divide them into several small clusters by hand or scissors. Each small cluster can carry 1 ~ 3 branches, with roots at the lower part, and transplant them to other places or flowerpots respectively. After 3 ~ 4 years, it can be divided again.
Half-division method: when dividing plants, it is not necessary to dig out all the mother plants, but only dig out the soil around, on both sides or on one side of the mother plants to expose the root system, cut them into small clusters with l3 branches with roots at the lower part, and transplant these small clusters to other places to grow into new plants.
matters need attention
1. ramets have a high survival rate because they have complete roots, stems and leaves, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is commonly used in strong species in tillering ability, such as Chimonanthus praecox, brown bamboo, phoenix-tailed bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, Hosta Hosta, etc. In addition, small plants such as chlorophytum and Saxifraga stolonifera, and sucking buds (twigs) produced at the base of Sedum alfredii and Clematis chinensis in pulpy plants can be isolated and planted at any time.
2. Generally, flowers that bloom in early spring should be divided after stopping growing in autumn, and flowers that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided before sprouting in early spring.
4. Grafting and propagation
basic concept
Grafting is to use a part of the vegetative organs of plants to graft on other plants. Branches used for grafting are called scions, buds used are called grafted buds, grafted plants are called rootstocks, and grafted seedlings are called grafted seedlings. Grafting propagation is a good seed method for propagating clones, which is often used in plum blossom and rose. The principle of grafting survival is that the cambium of two plants with affinity heals at the junction, which makes the catheter and sieve tube communicate with each other to form a new individual.
Matters needing attention in grafting propagation
1. Grafting includes several methods, such as branch grafting, bud grafting, butt grafting (peeling off part of cortex of two plants with roots in bananas which are easy to approach in blue phase, and then joining with each other), pith grafting (scion and rootstock heal through pith), root grafting (using root as anvil), etc. However, no matter which method, attention should be paid to the management of temperature, light and water after grafting.
2. It is best to choose different plants which belong to the same genus or the same species as scions for rootstocks, because they have strong affinity, fast graft healing and high survival rate.
3. Rootstocks should have developed roots and strong growth, adapt to the local soil and climate, and have good resistance to pests.
4. Branches with full growth and full buds should be selected for scions.
5. The grafting season varies with different varieties of flowers and trees. For example, bud grafting for clove is mostly carried out in summer, and branch grafting for fuso can be carried out in spring and summer.
5, layering propagation
basic concept
Sliced propagation is a propagation method in which the branches attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become a new individual. The layering propagation is mostly used for woody flowers which are easy to take root naturally in stems and internodes, but not easy to take root by cutting. The layering time can be carried out all the year round in warm areas, while it is mostly carried out in spring in the north. When layering propagation layering, in order to interrupt the downward transmission of organic substances (such as sugar, auxin and other substances) from the upper ends of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate on the upper parts of branches for use when rooting, ring peeling can be carried out. Applying IBA auxin to girdling site can promote rooting.
There are three layering methods: ordinary layering method, soil piling layering method and high branch layering method.
1. The common layering method is mostly used for vine flowers with soft and slender branches, such as Yingchun, Honeysuckle and Lingxiao. When layering, the periphery of the mother plant is bent into an arc shape, the bent protruding part is cut and buried in the soil, and then the bent part is fixed with hooks, and the mother plant can be cut off after it takes root, and then transplanted.
2. The method of stacking soil and layering is suitable for deciduous shrubs with strong tufts and hard branches that are not easy to bend, such as Redwood, Ulmus pumila and Rosa roxburghii. In early summer, the lower part of its branches is peeled for about 1 cm at a distance of about 25 cm from the soil, and then it is cultivated around the mother plant, and the lower part of the whole plant cluster is buried in the soil, and the soil pile is kept moist. After rooting and before sprouting in the next spring, dig the mound, cut the branches from the base to separate the mother plants, and then transplant them separately.
3. High-branch layering method is mostly used for evergreen flowers and trees, such as white orchid, Milan, smiling, etc. Generally, the layering of high branches is carried out in the peak growth season. The well-developed biennial branches are selected and peeled annularly at their proper positions. Then peat soil, mountain mud, moss, etc. are packed in plastic bags, which are used to wrap the branches, pour water through them, and fasten and fix the bags tightly. In the future, pay attention to timely water supply to keep the culture soil moist. After the branches take root, cut off the mother body from the bottom of the bag, remove the wrapped plastic bag, plant it in a pot with soil, and keep it in a cool place. After a large number of new shoots germinate, see you again.
The most obvious advantage of layering propagation is that it is easy to survive and can keep the characteristics of original varieties. This method can be used for some varieties that are difficult to reproduce by other propagation methods.
1. Sowing and breeding
basic concept
The sowing process is as follows: sterilize the soil in the sun, irrigate it with water, sprinkle the seeds evenly on the soil layer, then choose to cover the soil or not cover the leaves according to the size of the seeds, keep the soil moist, but do not accumulate water, move the flowerpot to the place with scattered light in time after the seeds germinate, and apply some liquid fertilizer, so that the seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2 ~ 3 leaves.
matters need attention
1. The sowing time of flowers is regular. Generally, open-field annual flowers and woody flowers are sown from March to April in spring, and the daily average temperature is stable at 15℃; open-field biennial flowers are mostly sown from August to September in autumn. The sowing date of greenhouse flowers often depends on the required flowering period. There is no strict seasonal restriction, but it is generally necessary to avoid the coldest and hottest seasons.
2. Flower seeds should absorb enough water before germination, and then they can extend radicle and germinate slowly. In order to meet the temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions required for seed germination, it is best to put the seeds in gauze bags before sowing, soak them in warm water at 40℃ for 24 hours, then spread them out on wet gauze, keep the gauze moist, and then sow them after the radicle of the seeds breaks through the seed coat.
3. Flower seeds are divided into four grades: large, medium, small and fine particles. The grain size of large seeds is above 0.5 cm, medium seeds are 0.2 ~ 0.5 cm, small seeds are 0.1 ~ 0.2 cm, and micro seeds are below 0.1 cm. Whether it is large, medium or small seeds, the sowing depth should be 2 ~ 3 times of the seed diameter. Large seeds can be sown in holes, the depth of which is 23 times of the diameter of the seeds, and the soil is flat with the bed surface after sowing; Medium-sized and small-sized seeds are first removed from the bed surface and then covered with a thin layer of soil; fine-sized seeds do not need to be covered with soil.
2. Cutting propagation
basic concept
Cutting propagation means taking a part of vegetative organs of a plant, inserting it into loose and wet soil or fine sand, and using its regeneration ability, making it take root and take branches to become a new plant.
Cuttage propagation
matters need attention
1. As the mother plant of cutting, it is required to have excellent varieties, vigorous growth and no diseases and insect pests, and the growing and aging plants should not be selected as the mother plant of cutting. On the same plant, the cuttings should choose branches whose middle and upper parts are sunny and full, and it is better to have shorter internodes, full bud heads and thick branches and leaves. On the same branch, hardwood cutting should choose the middle and lower parts of branches, because the middle and lower parts store more nutrients, while the tip tissues are often not full.
2. Cutting should be carried out immediately after cutting the sowing strips. Cutting strips such as rose, hibiscus syriacus, and clover, which are cut in late autumn, can be cut well, tied into bundles, buried in flowerpots with wet sand, and placed in a place where the indoor temperature is kept at 0~5℃. Pay attention not to make the sand too dry in winter, and then wait for the early spring of the following year before cutting. Flowers such as Chinese rose can also be cut in plastic shed in winter. Cuttings of succulent plants such as cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for about a week after cutting, and then cut when the cut mouth is slightly dry, otherwise it is easy to rot. Cutting cuttings of Begonia fortunei, oleander, etc., can be soaked in clear water after cutting, and can be directly planted into pots after rooting. For Chinese rose, Milan, etc., dip the lower mouth of cuttings in the injection of vitamin B, and then take it out for a minute or two, so that the liquid medicine can be sucked into cuttings and then inserted into coarse sand. This treatment can promote rooting.
3. After cuttage, management should be strengthened to create good rooting conditions for cuttings. Generally, rooting of flower cuttings requires both soil moisture and air circulation. Cover the cutting pots or beds with a cover made of glass plate or plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity. Small bricks should be placed under the hood to allow air to flow in. In summer and early autumn, the cuttage pots should be placed in shade during the day and in the open air at night; when the temperature is not enough in early, spring, late autumn and winter, they can be placed in warm places or greenhouses, but attention must be paid to the adjustment of temperature and humidity. In the future, according to the rooting speed of cuttings, gradually strengthen the illumination.
3. Branch propagation
basic concept
Ramet propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clumping branches, sucking buds and creeping branches of flowers from their mother plants and planting them as independent new plants, which is generally applicable to perennial flowers. The ramet method can be divided into two types: full division method and half division method.
division propagation
Full division method: dig out all the roots of the mother plants from the soil, and divide them into several small clusters by hand or scissors. Each small cluster can carry 1 ~ 3 branches, with roots at the lower part, and transplant them to other places or flowerpots respectively. After 3 ~ 4 years, it can be divided again.
Half-division method: when dividing plants, it is not necessary to dig out all the mother plants, but only dig out the soil around, on both sides or on one side of the mother plants to expose the root system, cut them into small clusters with l3 branches with roots at the lower part, and transplant these small clusters to other places to grow into new plants.
matters need attention
1. ramets have a high survival rate because they have complete roots, stems and leaves, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is commonly used in strong species in tillering ability, such as Chimonanthus praecox, brown bamboo, phoenix-tailed bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, Hosta Hosta, etc. In addition, small plants such as chlorophytum and Saxifraga stolonifera, and sucking buds (twigs) produced at the base of Sedum alfredii and Clematis chinensis in pulpy plants can be isolated and planted at any time.
2. Generally, flowers that bloom in early spring should be divided after stopping growing in autumn, and flowers that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided before sprouting in early spring.
4. Grafting and propagation
basic concept
Grafting is to use a part of the vegetative organs of plants to graft on other plants. Branches used for grafting are called scions, buds used are called grafted buds, grafted plants are called rootstocks, and grafted seedlings are called grafted seedlings. Grafting propagation is a good seed method for propagating clones, which is often used in plum blossom and rose. The principle of grafting survival is that the cambium of two plants with affinity heals at the junction, which makes the catheter and sieve tube communicate with each other to form a new individual.
Matters needing attention in grafting propagation
1. Grafting includes several methods, such as branch grafting, bud grafting, butt grafting (peeling off part of cortex of two plants with roots in bananas which are easy to approach in blue phase, and then joining with each other), pith grafting (scion and rootstock heal through pith), root grafting (using root as anvil), etc. However, no matter which method, attention should be paid to the management of temperature, light and water after grafting.
2. It is best to choose different plants which belong to the same genus or the same species as scions for rootstocks, because they have strong affinity, fast graft healing and high survival rate.
3. Rootstocks should have developed roots and strong growth, adapt to the local soil and climate, and have good resistance to pests.
4. Branches with full growth and full buds should be selected for scions.
5. The grafting season varies with different varieties of flowers and trees. For example, bud grafting for clove is mostly carried out in summer, and branch grafting for fuso can be carried out in spring and summer.
5, layering propagation
basic concept
Sliced propagation is a propagation method in which the branches attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become a new individual. The layering propagation is mostly used for woody flowers which are easy to take root naturally in stems and internodes, but not easy to take root by cutting. The layering time can be carried out all the year round in warm areas, while it is mostly carried out in spring in the north. When layering propagation layering, in order to interrupt the downward transmission of organic substances (such as sugar, auxin and other substances) from the upper ends of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate on the upper parts of branches for use when rooting, ring peeling can be carried out. Applying IBA auxin to girdling site can promote rooting.
There are three layering methods: ordinary layering method, soil piling layering method and high branch layering method.
1. The common layering method is mostly used for vine flowers with soft and slender branches, such as Yingchun, Honeysuckle and Lingxiao. When layering, the periphery of the mother plant is bent into an arc shape, the bent protruding part is cut and buried in the soil, and then the bent part is fixed with hooks, and the mother plant can be cut off after it takes root, and then transplanted.
2. The method of stacking soil and layering is suitable for deciduous shrubs with strong tufts and hard branches that are not easy to bend, such as Redwood, Ulmus pumila and Rosa roxburghii. In early summer, the lower part of its branches is peeled for about 1 cm at a distance of about 25 cm from the soil, and then it is cultivated around the mother plant, and the lower part of the whole plant cluster is buried in the soil, and the soil pile is kept moist. After rooting and before sprouting in the next spring, dig the mound, cut the branches from the base to separate the mother plants, and then transplant them separately.
3. High-branch layering method is mostly used for evergreen flowers and trees, such as white orchid, Milan, smiling, etc. Generally, the layering of high branches is carried out in the peak growth season. The well-developed biennial branches are selected and peeled annularly at their proper positions. Then peat soil, mountain mud, moss, etc. are packed in plastic bags, which are used to wrap the branches, pour water through them, and fasten and fix the bags tightly. In the future, pay attention to timely water supply to keep the culture soil moist. After the branches take root, cut off the mother body from the bottom of the bag, remove the wrapped plastic bag, plant it in a pot with soil, and keep it in a cool place. After a large number of new shoots germinate, see you again.
The most obvious advantage of layering propagation is that it is easy to survive and can keep the characteristics of original varieties. This method can be used for some varieties that are difficult to reproduce by other propagation methods.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月12日
Flower Pots - Terra CottaFlower pots have had various uses over time: moving plants to new locations — sometimes great distances, starting seeds, patio gardening, cultivation of indoor plants, and often for year-round growth in very cold climates, which usually have a short growing season. During the 18th century Josiah Wedgwood manufactured flower pots that were as gorgeous as his China dinnerware; they were often chosen as table centerpieces.
Flower pots were historically made from terra cotta; coarse, porous clay fired in a kiln and used mainly for vases, roofing and architectural purposes. Known and made use of from as early as 3,000 B.C., terra cotta died out when the Roman Empire collapsed; it was revived in Italy and Germany in the 1400’s and remains popular to this day. Clay pots are commonly used for both house plants and outdoor plants; the unglazed clay allows air and moisture to penetrate the pot; they also act as a wick to take excess moisture from the soil, possibly preventing root rot and improving plant health care. They are an excellent choice for Roses, African Violets, Succulent plants, tropical plants (including Palm Plants), and there are even special terra cotta flower pots made for Orchid care.
Flower Pots - Metal Kit
Alternative Flower Pots
Presently we have commercial flower pots made of many materials such as plastic, wood, stone, and biodegradable materials. Recycling plastic food containers or tin cans by pounding drainage holes in the bottom with a hammer and nail also gives us flower pots.
Flower Pots - Terra Cotta Pot in a Wrought Iron Tricycle
During difficult financial periods we have often used tin cans for flower pots; you can decorate them by painting or gluing on tiny objects or just wrap with foil or pretty paper and tie a bow – voila! – beautiful and unique! Other ideas for flower pots, planters or just as garden ornaments include baskets, pails, coffee/tea pots, tea kettles, tubs or mailboxes – just stretch your imagination and use whatever fits in with your indoor, yard, patio or garden design.
Flower Pots - Hanging
Hanging planters are great for Spider Plants and similar types of houseplants, but they need to be placed where heads won’t be bumped; hanging them on fence panels adds a nice touch and they can usually be seen before you crack your skull! Hanging planters are also a good idea for poisonous plants because they can be kept out of reach of children and pets.
Flower pots usually have a hole in the bottom for drainage; sometimes there is a saucer placed beneath the pot to catch the water – often plants can use this water by taking it up through the root system. There are plants however, that should not be saturated and many that should not have water remain in the saucer even if they can be saturated – know the watering instructions for each plant you plan to grow.
Flower Pots - Self Watering Planter
More recently flower pots have been designed with an automatic watering system and their own reservoir for water storage, this innovation is particularly convenient if you must be away from home. Some Indoor plant stands, like the one in Figure 6, hold an assortment of flower pots and are self watering.
Container Gardening
Container gardening is as old as Rome, with the boxes also made of terra cotta. In the first century B.C most Romans cultivated their small cottage gardens to provide food, medicinal herbs, and flowers.
Flower Pots - French Style Window Box
Peasants had little if any gardening space and began to grow the plants they needed in window boxes. Eventually they were so popular that the rich upper classes began to develop balcony and rooftop gardens – elaborate with vines, shrubs, flowers and even fishponds.
The window boxes kept their popularity and spread to Europe and later to America. English cottage gardens boasted wire hay baskets as a new form to grow plants in at the windows; France often used wrought iron window boxes like the one pictured in Figure 7.
Flower Pots - Planter Box
Large planter boxes for vegetable gardening can be built at home, such as the one in Figure 8, constructed for peppers and tomatoes. Cyclamen also thrive in planters like these.
Original garden ideas can be checked for appropriate lighting, watering, fertilizing and aesthetic appeal at your local garden center. If you need fresh opinions or just suggestions also look through books at the library or search online. If you don’t have a gardeners’ supply center nearby, Amazon.com is an excellent source of books for garden ideas but also offers: tools, soil, fertilizers, herbicide/pesticide sprays, gloves, flower pots, fence panels, planter boxes, garden ornaments, plant pots, and window boxes along with the seeds or growing plants – and almost anything else you could need.
If you love to garden and are creative, I’m sure you’ll find things to put your foliage and flowering plants in that may be unusual but very useful and attractive in a specific setting.
Flower pots were historically made from terra cotta; coarse, porous clay fired in a kiln and used mainly for vases, roofing and architectural purposes. Known and made use of from as early as 3,000 B.C., terra cotta died out when the Roman Empire collapsed; it was revived in Italy and Germany in the 1400’s and remains popular to this day. Clay pots are commonly used for both house plants and outdoor plants; the unglazed clay allows air and moisture to penetrate the pot; they also act as a wick to take excess moisture from the soil, possibly preventing root rot and improving plant health care. They are an excellent choice for Roses, African Violets, Succulent plants, tropical plants (including Palm Plants), and there are even special terra cotta flower pots made for Orchid care.
Flower Pots - Metal Kit
Alternative Flower Pots
Presently we have commercial flower pots made of many materials such as plastic, wood, stone, and biodegradable materials. Recycling plastic food containers or tin cans by pounding drainage holes in the bottom with a hammer and nail also gives us flower pots.
Flower Pots - Terra Cotta Pot in a Wrought Iron Tricycle
During difficult financial periods we have often used tin cans for flower pots; you can decorate them by painting or gluing on tiny objects or just wrap with foil or pretty paper and tie a bow – voila! – beautiful and unique! Other ideas for flower pots, planters or just as garden ornaments include baskets, pails, coffee/tea pots, tea kettles, tubs or mailboxes – just stretch your imagination and use whatever fits in with your indoor, yard, patio or garden design.
Flower Pots - Hanging
Hanging planters are great for Spider Plants and similar types of houseplants, but they need to be placed where heads won’t be bumped; hanging them on fence panels adds a nice touch and they can usually be seen before you crack your skull! Hanging planters are also a good idea for poisonous plants because they can be kept out of reach of children and pets.
Flower pots usually have a hole in the bottom for drainage; sometimes there is a saucer placed beneath the pot to catch the water – often plants can use this water by taking it up through the root system. There are plants however, that should not be saturated and many that should not have water remain in the saucer even if they can be saturated – know the watering instructions for each plant you plan to grow.
Flower Pots - Self Watering Planter
More recently flower pots have been designed with an automatic watering system and their own reservoir for water storage, this innovation is particularly convenient if you must be away from home. Some Indoor plant stands, like the one in Figure 6, hold an assortment of flower pots and are self watering.
Container Gardening
Container gardening is as old as Rome, with the boxes also made of terra cotta. In the first century B.C most Romans cultivated their small cottage gardens to provide food, medicinal herbs, and flowers.
Flower Pots - French Style Window Box
Peasants had little if any gardening space and began to grow the plants they needed in window boxes. Eventually they were so popular that the rich upper classes began to develop balcony and rooftop gardens – elaborate with vines, shrubs, flowers and even fishponds.
The window boxes kept their popularity and spread to Europe and later to America. English cottage gardens boasted wire hay baskets as a new form to grow plants in at the windows; France often used wrought iron window boxes like the one pictured in Figure 7.
Flower Pots - Planter Box
Large planter boxes for vegetable gardening can be built at home, such as the one in Figure 8, constructed for peppers and tomatoes. Cyclamen also thrive in planters like these.
Original garden ideas can be checked for appropriate lighting, watering, fertilizing and aesthetic appeal at your local garden center. If you need fresh opinions or just suggestions also look through books at the library or search online. If you don’t have a gardeners’ supply center nearby, Amazon.com is an excellent source of books for garden ideas but also offers: tools, soil, fertilizers, herbicide/pesticide sprays, gloves, flower pots, fence panels, planter boxes, garden ornaments, plant pots, and window boxes along with the seeds or growing plants – and almost anything else you could need.
If you love to garden and are creative, I’m sure you’ll find things to put your foliage and flowering plants in that may be unusual but very useful and attractive in a specific setting.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月08日
Distribution and habitat: Phyllostachys aurea is a running type of bamboo native to China which was introduced in Taiwan and in Japan long ago. These cold hardy bamboo was naturalised in Indonesia, New Zealand, southern USA, Australia and Hawaii.
Description: Phyllostachys aurea are easily identified by their characteristic compressed internodes in the lower part of the canes which have a tortoiseshell-like appearance. This internodal compression result in shorter heights and thicker cane diameters (relative to height) than many other Phyllostachys species. The canes are typically green, but will turn yellow in full or partial sun, and deepen into a gold-orange colour as the plant matures. Branching and foliage tend to start lower to the ground than many other Phyllostachys, but some prefer to cut off lower branches to show off the interesting ‘tortoise shell’ lower part of the canes.
The leaves are clustered and produced on short shoots which grow from the joints on the branches. They consist of a leaf sheath 25-35mm long, which surrounds the stem and a spreading leaf blade. The base of the leaf blade is very narrow and stalk-like in appearance. Leaf sheaths are mostly hairless, except near their margins and where the sheath meets the leaf blade there is a tiny membranous structure about 1mm long topped with long hairs. On either side of this structure there are sometimes also 1-3 larger bristles. The leaf blades, 5-15cm (2-6 inch) long and 5-22mm wide are elongated in shape, may be either hairless or softly hairy and have rough but entire margins.
Flowers and seeds are very rarely produced, if ever. When produced, flowers occur in spikelets up to 5cm (2 inch) long with 8 to 12 flowers. Most reports indicate that Phyllostachys aurea produces masses of flowers sporadically and synchronously, but reported intervals between mass flowering events range from 7 to 30 years. When they do come into flower most of the plants energies are directed into producing seed and consequently the plant is severely weakened. They sometimes die after flowering, but if left alone they will usually recover though they will look very poorly for a few years.
Phyllostachys aurea is a long-lived bamboo with upright stems usually growing 2-8m (6-26 feet) tall, but occasionally reaching up to 12m (40 feet) in height. Plants form dense or loose clumps and spread rapidly via creeping underground stems, with the upright stems being produced from their joints. They will grow in large thickets or groves if left alone.
Gardening: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated as an ornamental plant for gardens. It is the most commonly cultivated bamboo in the United States. Growing rigidly upright, this bamboo is one of the best for hedges and for planting next to driveways and walkways. Phyllostachys aurea can be an aggressive spreader in hot climates, where care must be used in its placement.
It is a fast grower in warm climate zones, but less aggressive in colder climates. Provides a thick impenetrable grove when untrimmed.
In some micro climates of zone 6, this species does not remain evergreen. This beautiful bamboo will drop foliage when temps drop to around 15°C bellow 0 (5°F). Canes will most likely be killed when temps drop to 20°C below 0 (-5°F). Unless temps drop to 34°C bellow 0 (-30°F) the root system of established well mulched groves will put up new canes each spring. But, these plants will need a frost-free period of at least 26 weeks to survive.
Of course, growth rate depends a lot on soil, climate, food and water. Small plants are slow to get going, so starting off with a bigger plant will grow much faster.
Location: Phyllostachys aurea will grow in sparsely wooded secondary forests and does best in full sun or part shade. It is best to protect these plants from cold drying winds.
Soil: Phyllostachys aurea growth is considered best in rich, deep, well-drained sands or in moist, deep loams with a pH between 5 and 7,5. These plants need a soil depth of at least 36cm (14 inch) for good growth. Although, it may persist on a variety of soils, stem diameter and height are likely reduced in fine textured and/or poorly drained soils. These plants should be planted where they can be monitored and contained. The use of barriers, sunk to a depth of 60cm (24 inch) may contain their spread.
Irrigation: Give to this bamboo species plenty of water in warmer months. These plants will be less likely to suffer from overwatering.
Phyllostachys aurea prefers moist soil and established plants can tolerate drought.
Fertilising: Fertilise Phyllostachys aurea in spring with decayed animal manure.
Container plants: Phyllostachys aurea can be grown in containers. When grown in containers these plants will not exceed 2m (6 feet) in height. The containers should be at least 30cm (12 inch) diameter and filled with good moisture retaining compost based on peat, leaf mould and charcoal. They need to be kept well watered. Spray the foliage when grown indoors. Fertilise monthly with liquid fertiliser if used in a container.
Propagation: Phyllostachys aurea by division in spring as new growth commences. Divisions from the open ground do not transplant well, so will need careful treatment and nurturing under cover in pots until at least late spring. Division is best carried out in wet weather and small divisions will establish better than large clumps.
Alternatively, take large divisions from established clumps and transfer them straight to their permanent positions, misting or drenching them frequently until they are established.
Also, Phyllostachys aurea can be propagated by basal cane cuttings in spring. Plant pieces of runners in early spring, just as new shoots are bursting into life. Keep them continuously moist and these soon root in the pot and continue growing.
Problems: Bamboo is a strong and resilient plant and is more likely to die from lack or too much water. The most common pests are most likely biological and come in forms of insects such as aphids, scales, mealybugs and mites.
Treatment: Use adequate pesticide to combat these insects. It is essential that the pesticide to be applied to both leaf surfaces. When chemical application is not feasible, infested plants can be cut down and infested debris destroyed to avoid reinfestation.
Note: In sub-tropical and warmer temperate regions, Phyllostachys aurea is problematic in untended areas, near gardens, along roadsides and waterways and in urban bushland. Rhizome growth by these bamboo clones can result in the development of dense thickets and colonies. A single Phyllostachys aurea clump can produce up to 15 km (9.3 miles) of stems in its lifetime. This bamboo once established, is very aggressive in both its rate of growth as well as the sprouting of new stems. Spread is often rapid in all directions from the point of establishment.
Management and control:
This bamboo is fast growing and will quickly spread via underground rhizomes. Despite containment efforts, the rhizomes of Phyllostachys aurea will often find their way out of confinement to infest nearby areas. The first step in preventative control of Phyllostachys aurea is to limit planting and removal of existing plants within the landscape. Care must be exercised to prevent seed spread and dispersal during the removal process.
Cutting and mowing can be used on small infestations or where herbicides cannot be used. Cut plants as close to the ground as possible. Repeat several times throughout the growing season as plants resprout. Monitoring and re-treatment will be necessary for several growing seasons until the energy reserves in the rhizomes are exhausted.
Foliar applications are most effective if canes are cut and herbicides applied to newly expanded leaves. Air temperature should be above 18°C (65°F) to ensure absorption of herbicides.
Uses and display: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated for its edible shoots in China; it has the sweetest taste of the genus.
It has been widely planted as an ornamental in the Mediterranean and seems to be naturalizing there. This is a good companion species to grow in a woodland because the plants have shallow root systems that do not compete with deep tree roots. Grown for its screening abilities, Phyllostachys aurea provides visual as well as noise barriers. It is a prime choice for privacy screening or a bamboo fence. Also, this bamboo is suitable for planting in tubs or planter boxes: balconies, patios or indoor displays of bamboo create an exotic atmosphere.
Container Plants Height: 2m (6 feet)
Ground Planting Height: 8-12 (26-40 feet)
Hardiness zone: 6a-11
Description: Phyllostachys aurea are easily identified by their characteristic compressed internodes in the lower part of the canes which have a tortoiseshell-like appearance. This internodal compression result in shorter heights and thicker cane diameters (relative to height) than many other Phyllostachys species. The canes are typically green, but will turn yellow in full or partial sun, and deepen into a gold-orange colour as the plant matures. Branching and foliage tend to start lower to the ground than many other Phyllostachys, but some prefer to cut off lower branches to show off the interesting ‘tortoise shell’ lower part of the canes.
The leaves are clustered and produced on short shoots which grow from the joints on the branches. They consist of a leaf sheath 25-35mm long, which surrounds the stem and a spreading leaf blade. The base of the leaf blade is very narrow and stalk-like in appearance. Leaf sheaths are mostly hairless, except near their margins and where the sheath meets the leaf blade there is a tiny membranous structure about 1mm long topped with long hairs. On either side of this structure there are sometimes also 1-3 larger bristles. The leaf blades, 5-15cm (2-6 inch) long and 5-22mm wide are elongated in shape, may be either hairless or softly hairy and have rough but entire margins.
Flowers and seeds are very rarely produced, if ever. When produced, flowers occur in spikelets up to 5cm (2 inch) long with 8 to 12 flowers. Most reports indicate that Phyllostachys aurea produces masses of flowers sporadically and synchronously, but reported intervals between mass flowering events range from 7 to 30 years. When they do come into flower most of the plants energies are directed into producing seed and consequently the plant is severely weakened. They sometimes die after flowering, but if left alone they will usually recover though they will look very poorly for a few years.
Phyllostachys aurea is a long-lived bamboo with upright stems usually growing 2-8m (6-26 feet) tall, but occasionally reaching up to 12m (40 feet) in height. Plants form dense or loose clumps and spread rapidly via creeping underground stems, with the upright stems being produced from their joints. They will grow in large thickets or groves if left alone.
Gardening: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated as an ornamental plant for gardens. It is the most commonly cultivated bamboo in the United States. Growing rigidly upright, this bamboo is one of the best for hedges and for planting next to driveways and walkways. Phyllostachys aurea can be an aggressive spreader in hot climates, where care must be used in its placement.
It is a fast grower in warm climate zones, but less aggressive in colder climates. Provides a thick impenetrable grove when untrimmed.
In some micro climates of zone 6, this species does not remain evergreen. This beautiful bamboo will drop foliage when temps drop to around 15°C bellow 0 (5°F). Canes will most likely be killed when temps drop to 20°C below 0 (-5°F). Unless temps drop to 34°C bellow 0 (-30°F) the root system of established well mulched groves will put up new canes each spring. But, these plants will need a frost-free period of at least 26 weeks to survive.
Of course, growth rate depends a lot on soil, climate, food and water. Small plants are slow to get going, so starting off with a bigger plant will grow much faster.
Location: Phyllostachys aurea will grow in sparsely wooded secondary forests and does best in full sun or part shade. It is best to protect these plants from cold drying winds.
Soil: Phyllostachys aurea growth is considered best in rich, deep, well-drained sands or in moist, deep loams with a pH between 5 and 7,5. These plants need a soil depth of at least 36cm (14 inch) for good growth. Although, it may persist on a variety of soils, stem diameter and height are likely reduced in fine textured and/or poorly drained soils. These plants should be planted where they can be monitored and contained. The use of barriers, sunk to a depth of 60cm (24 inch) may contain their spread.
Irrigation: Give to this bamboo species plenty of water in warmer months. These plants will be less likely to suffer from overwatering.
Phyllostachys aurea prefers moist soil and established plants can tolerate drought.
Fertilising: Fertilise Phyllostachys aurea in spring with decayed animal manure.
Container plants: Phyllostachys aurea can be grown in containers. When grown in containers these plants will not exceed 2m (6 feet) in height. The containers should be at least 30cm (12 inch) diameter and filled with good moisture retaining compost based on peat, leaf mould and charcoal. They need to be kept well watered. Spray the foliage when grown indoors. Fertilise monthly with liquid fertiliser if used in a container.
Propagation: Phyllostachys aurea by division in spring as new growth commences. Divisions from the open ground do not transplant well, so will need careful treatment and nurturing under cover in pots until at least late spring. Division is best carried out in wet weather and small divisions will establish better than large clumps.
Alternatively, take large divisions from established clumps and transfer them straight to their permanent positions, misting or drenching them frequently until they are established.
Also, Phyllostachys aurea can be propagated by basal cane cuttings in spring. Plant pieces of runners in early spring, just as new shoots are bursting into life. Keep them continuously moist and these soon root in the pot and continue growing.
Problems: Bamboo is a strong and resilient plant and is more likely to die from lack or too much water. The most common pests are most likely biological and come in forms of insects such as aphids, scales, mealybugs and mites.
Treatment: Use adequate pesticide to combat these insects. It is essential that the pesticide to be applied to both leaf surfaces. When chemical application is not feasible, infested plants can be cut down and infested debris destroyed to avoid reinfestation.
Note: In sub-tropical and warmer temperate regions, Phyllostachys aurea is problematic in untended areas, near gardens, along roadsides and waterways and in urban bushland. Rhizome growth by these bamboo clones can result in the development of dense thickets and colonies. A single Phyllostachys aurea clump can produce up to 15 km (9.3 miles) of stems in its lifetime. This bamboo once established, is very aggressive in both its rate of growth as well as the sprouting of new stems. Spread is often rapid in all directions from the point of establishment.
Management and control:
This bamboo is fast growing and will quickly spread via underground rhizomes. Despite containment efforts, the rhizomes of Phyllostachys aurea will often find their way out of confinement to infest nearby areas. The first step in preventative control of Phyllostachys aurea is to limit planting and removal of existing plants within the landscape. Care must be exercised to prevent seed spread and dispersal during the removal process.
Cutting and mowing can be used on small infestations or where herbicides cannot be used. Cut plants as close to the ground as possible. Repeat several times throughout the growing season as plants resprout. Monitoring and re-treatment will be necessary for several growing seasons until the energy reserves in the rhizomes are exhausted.
Foliar applications are most effective if canes are cut and herbicides applied to newly expanded leaves. Air temperature should be above 18°C (65°F) to ensure absorption of herbicides.
Uses and display: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated for its edible shoots in China; it has the sweetest taste of the genus.
It has been widely planted as an ornamental in the Mediterranean and seems to be naturalizing there. This is a good companion species to grow in a woodland because the plants have shallow root systems that do not compete with deep tree roots. Grown for its screening abilities, Phyllostachys aurea provides visual as well as noise barriers. It is a prime choice for privacy screening or a bamboo fence. Also, this bamboo is suitable for planting in tubs or planter boxes: balconies, patios or indoor displays of bamboo create an exotic atmosphere.
Container Plants Height: 2m (6 feet)
Ground Planting Height: 8-12 (26-40 feet)
Hardiness zone: 6a-11
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文章
莹723
2021年01月27日
Sowing seed is a simple and inexpensive way of growing new flowers and vegetables for your garden. You can start the growing year much earlier than if sowing outside. When growing salad and vegetable crops, it’s a good idea to sow a small amount of seed every two weeks, to ensure you have a long season of fresh produce to eat throughout summer. This is called ‘successional sowing’.
You don’t need a lot of kit to sow seeds. Many gardeners buy expensive propagators but a seed tray or a few plastic pots, will do the job. If you don’t have plastic pots then try using old yoghurt pots with holes punched in the bottom, or tomato or mushroom punnets instead of a seed tray. Any vessel that can hold compost and allow water to drain freely is suitable.
To maintain an even temperature and keep the soil moist, it’s a good idea to cover the soil with a clear piece of plastic. A bespoke propagator will come with its own clear plastic lid, but you can use cling film, old freezer bags or any clear plastic bag. Use cellotape or an elastic band to fix it to the pot.
Follow our step-by-step guide to sowing seed indoors, below.
You Will Need
• Seeds
• Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
• Seed trays or pots
• Plant labels
• Pencil or waterproof pen
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Polythene bag
• Sheet of glass, or a propagator
Step 1
Fill small pots or seed trays with compost. Use a watering can fitted with a fine rose to thoroughly wet the compost, and leave to drain.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds evenly and thinly over the surface of the compost, leaving approx 2cm – 3cm between each one, if possible. Some seed is very small, making this impossible. Cover seeds with a thin layer of compost, about the same depth as the size of the seed (the smaller the seed, the thinner the layer of compost).
Step 3
Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag or piece of glass or clear plastic, to maintain an even temperature for germination, and keep the compost moist. Place the pot of seeds on a well-lit windowsill or in a heated propagator.
Step 4
Remove the plastic or glass cover as soon as the seeds have germinated and you can see the seedlings growing out of the compost. Grow them on in a warm place indoors – if growing them on a windowsill you may need to move them at night as temperatures can drop dramatically. The young plants will ready to be ‘pricked’ out when the second pair of leaves, known as ‘true’ leaves, emerges.
Step 5
When pricking out seedlings, handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a seed tray with compost and plant seedlings about 5cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves.
Step 6s
After a couple of weeks, the young plants will be large enough to pot individually into 7.5cm pots, or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Handle plants gently, firm compost around them and water well. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out.
You don’t need a lot of kit to sow seeds. Many gardeners buy expensive propagators but a seed tray or a few plastic pots, will do the job. If you don’t have plastic pots then try using old yoghurt pots with holes punched in the bottom, or tomato or mushroom punnets instead of a seed tray. Any vessel that can hold compost and allow water to drain freely is suitable.
To maintain an even temperature and keep the soil moist, it’s a good idea to cover the soil with a clear piece of plastic. A bespoke propagator will come with its own clear plastic lid, but you can use cling film, old freezer bags or any clear plastic bag. Use cellotape or an elastic band to fix it to the pot.
Follow our step-by-step guide to sowing seed indoors, below.
You Will Need
• Seeds
• Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
• Seed trays or pots
• Plant labels
• Pencil or waterproof pen
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Polythene bag
• Sheet of glass, or a propagator
Step 1
Fill small pots or seed trays with compost. Use a watering can fitted with a fine rose to thoroughly wet the compost, and leave to drain.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds evenly and thinly over the surface of the compost, leaving approx 2cm – 3cm between each one, if possible. Some seed is very small, making this impossible. Cover seeds with a thin layer of compost, about the same depth as the size of the seed (the smaller the seed, the thinner the layer of compost).
Step 3
Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag or piece of glass or clear plastic, to maintain an even temperature for germination, and keep the compost moist. Place the pot of seeds on a well-lit windowsill or in a heated propagator.
Step 4
Remove the plastic or glass cover as soon as the seeds have germinated and you can see the seedlings growing out of the compost. Grow them on in a warm place indoors – if growing them on a windowsill you may need to move them at night as temperatures can drop dramatically. The young plants will ready to be ‘pricked’ out when the second pair of leaves, known as ‘true’ leaves, emerges.
Step 5
When pricking out seedlings, handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a seed tray with compost and plant seedlings about 5cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves.
Step 6s
After a couple of weeks, the young plants will be large enough to pot individually into 7.5cm pots, or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Handle plants gently, firm compost around them and water well. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out.
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0
文章
莹723
2020年12月30日
You may love leaving your home all done up until New Year's Day or for as long as fresh greenery stays healthy. Or you may be in the camp of immediately taking your Christmas tree down on December 26. But there's actually some interesting history behind packing it up.
To help you figure out when to say goodbye to your evergreen, we're breaking down everything there is to know about dismantling your Christmas tree right here.
——When do you take down your Christmas tree? Does it have to be by a certain day?
Some people take their tree down the day after Christmas; others wait until the first or second week of January.
There are Christmas fanatics who are willing to start decorating as soon as the plates are cleared from the Thanksgiving table (if not before then) and will do everything they can to keep their Christmas tree up for as long as possible. After all, according to experts, putting your holiday decorations up early could make you happier, so leaving them up could have the same effect.
——Is there history behind when to take down your Christmas tree?
If you keep Christ in Christmas, this may inform your decision a bit. According to Catholic religion, you should hold off taking down your Christmas tree until January 7. While that might seem like a bit of a stretch, prepare to have your mind blown. Many people believe that the 12 days of Christmas are the days leading to December 25 (that’s thanks to popular songs and movies tending to misrepresent it).
But in Catholicism, the 12 days actually start on December 25 and last through January 6, which is known as Epiphany (aka when the Three Wise Men came to visit Jesus). Once Epiphany is over, it’s time to toss the tree.
————When should you take down your Christmas tree to avoid a fire hazard?
Here’s the kicker that’s imperative to keep in mind. If you opt for a real Christmas tree, you need to consider how long it will last before drying out. Most home and garden centers will tell you that five weeks is where it starts to become a fire hazard.
But if you want to keep your Christmas tree alive as long as you can and religiously water it every day, you can likely stretch it to a sixth week—
just be sure to keep a close eye on the needles. If you notice they’re turning yellow or brown or feel crunchy to the touch, it’s time to take your
Christmas tree out to the curb. If that thought shatters your heart, there’s always a solution: artificial Christmas trees or potted Christmas trees you can replant.
To help you figure out when to say goodbye to your evergreen, we're breaking down everything there is to know about dismantling your Christmas tree right here.
——When do you take down your Christmas tree? Does it have to be by a certain day?
Some people take their tree down the day after Christmas; others wait until the first or second week of January.
There are Christmas fanatics who are willing to start decorating as soon as the plates are cleared from the Thanksgiving table (if not before then) and will do everything they can to keep their Christmas tree up for as long as possible. After all, according to experts, putting your holiday decorations up early could make you happier, so leaving them up could have the same effect.
——Is there history behind when to take down your Christmas tree?
If you keep Christ in Christmas, this may inform your decision a bit. According to Catholic religion, you should hold off taking down your Christmas tree until January 7. While that might seem like a bit of a stretch, prepare to have your mind blown. Many people believe that the 12 days of Christmas are the days leading to December 25 (that’s thanks to popular songs and movies tending to misrepresent it).
But in Catholicism, the 12 days actually start on December 25 and last through January 6, which is known as Epiphany (aka when the Three Wise Men came to visit Jesus). Once Epiphany is over, it’s time to toss the tree.
————When should you take down your Christmas tree to avoid a fire hazard?
Here’s the kicker that’s imperative to keep in mind. If you opt for a real Christmas tree, you need to consider how long it will last before drying out. Most home and garden centers will tell you that five weeks is where it starts to become a fire hazard.
But if you want to keep your Christmas tree alive as long as you can and religiously water it every day, you can likely stretch it to a sixth week—
just be sure to keep a close eye on the needles. If you notice they’re turning yellow or brown or feel crunchy to the touch, it’s time to take your
Christmas tree out to the curb. If that thought shatters your heart, there’s always a solution: artificial Christmas trees or potted Christmas trees you can replant.
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ritau
2020年07月19日
Cacti are typically desert-dwelling plants that thrive in dry and hot conditions, but these plants also make excellent indoor houseplants. Cacti are quite low-maintenance and need less care than many other houseplants, making them an ideal plant for new gardeners and a great housewarming gift. The secrets to growing healthy cacti indoors include providing them with plenty of sunlight, not overwatering, and using the right soil.
1. Take a cutting from a healthy cactus. You can grow new cacti from a pup that shoots off of a healthy mother plant. Choose a pup that’s plump, unblemished, and healthy. Gently cut or break off an entire pup from the plant. You can also buy cacti at local nurseries, home stores, and garden centers.
2. Let the wound heal. Transfer the cutting to a sunny windowsill. Lay the cutting down flat and leave it for about two days. This will give the wound time to form a callous. If you don’t let the wound heal before planting, the cutting will likely rot.
3. Select a pot for the cactus. The most important thing to remember when choosing a pot for a cactus is drainage. Find a pot with drainage holes in the bottom that will allow excess water to drain out. Cacti also do well in smaller pots, so choose a pot that’s about twice the size of the plant. You can use clay or plastic pots for cacti. Plastic pots are lighter and cheaper, but heavier clay pots are better for large or top-heavy plants.
4. Fill the pot with a cactus-specific potting soil. Cacti need soil that drains very quickly, so choose a medium that’s specific for these types of plants. For even better drainage, mix two parts of the cactus potting soil with one part lava rock pebbles or pearlite.Cacti that sit in wet soil are prone to fungal and bacterial growth.
5. Plant the cutting in the soil. Place the stem or leaf cutting callous-down in the potting soil. Push the cutting in just deep enough so that it will stand up on its own. Use your hands to gently firm the soil around the cutting to stabilize it.
6. Mist the soil. Moisten the soil to provide the cactus with extra water, but don’t soak the soil. Until roots and new growth start to form, only mist the cutting lightly when the soil feels dry. Otherwise, the cutting may rot.
7. Keep the cutting in a bright location. Transfer the cutting to a windowsill or other area that gets lots of bright but indirect sunlight. Too much direct sun can damage a new cutting. Leave the cutting in this location for a month or two, until new growth starts to appear.
1. Take a cutting from a healthy cactus. You can grow new cacti from a pup that shoots off of a healthy mother plant. Choose a pup that’s plump, unblemished, and healthy. Gently cut or break off an entire pup from the plant. You can also buy cacti at local nurseries, home stores, and garden centers.
2. Let the wound heal. Transfer the cutting to a sunny windowsill. Lay the cutting down flat and leave it for about two days. This will give the wound time to form a callous. If you don’t let the wound heal before planting, the cutting will likely rot.
3. Select a pot for the cactus. The most important thing to remember when choosing a pot for a cactus is drainage. Find a pot with drainage holes in the bottom that will allow excess water to drain out. Cacti also do well in smaller pots, so choose a pot that’s about twice the size of the plant. You can use clay or plastic pots for cacti. Plastic pots are lighter and cheaper, but heavier clay pots are better for large or top-heavy plants.
4. Fill the pot with a cactus-specific potting soil. Cacti need soil that drains very quickly, so choose a medium that’s specific for these types of plants. For even better drainage, mix two parts of the cactus potting soil with one part lava rock pebbles or pearlite.Cacti that sit in wet soil are prone to fungal and bacterial growth.
5. Plant the cutting in the soil. Place the stem or leaf cutting callous-down in the potting soil. Push the cutting in just deep enough so that it will stand up on its own. Use your hands to gently firm the soil around the cutting to stabilize it.
6. Mist the soil. Moisten the soil to provide the cactus with extra water, but don’t soak the soil. Until roots and new growth start to form, only mist the cutting lightly when the soil feels dry. Otherwise, the cutting may rot.
7. Keep the cutting in a bright location. Transfer the cutting to a windowsill or other area that gets lots of bright but indirect sunlight. Too much direct sun can damage a new cutting. Leave the cutting in this location for a month or two, until new growth starts to appear.
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ritau
2020年06月04日
Kiwifruit (often shortened to kiwi outside Australia and New Zealand), or Chinese gooseberry, is the edible berry of several species of woody vines in the genus Actinidia. The most common cultivar group of kiwifruit (Actinidia deliciosa 'Hayward') is oval, about the size of a large hen's egg: 5–8 centimetres (2–3 inches) in length and 4.5–5.5 cm (1 3⁄4–2 1⁄4 in) in diameter. It has a thin, hair-like, fibrous, sour-but-edible light brown skin and light green or golden flesh with rows of tiny, black, edible seeds. The fruit has a soft texture with a sweet and unique flavour. In 2017, China produced 50% of the world total of kiwifruit.
Kiwifruit is native to central and eastern China. The first recorded description of the kiwifruit dates to the 12th century during the Song dynasty. In the early 20th century, cultivation of kiwifruit spread from China to New Zealand, where the first commercial plantings occurred. The fruit became popular with British and American servicemen stationed in New Zealand during World War II, and later became commonly exported, first to Great Britain and then to California in the 1960s.
Kiwifruit can be grown in most temperate climates with adequate summer heat. Where fuzzy kiwifruit is not hardy, other species can be grown as substitutes.
*Breeding
Often in commercial farming, different breeds are used for rootstock, fruit bearing plants and pollinators. Therefore, the seeds produced are crossbreeds of their parents. Even if the same breeds are used for pollinators and fruit bearing plants, there is no guarantee that the fruit will have the same quality as the parent. Additionally, seedlings take seven years before they flower, so determining whether the kiwi is fruit bearing or a pollinator is time-consuming. Therefore, most kiwifruits, with the exception of rootstock and new cultivars, are propagated asexually. This is done by grafting the fruit producing plant onto rootstock grown from seedlings or, if the plant is desired to be a true cultivar, rootstock grown from cuttings of a mature plant.
*Pollination
Kiwifruit flowering
Kiwifruit plants generally are dioecious, meaning a plant is either male or female. The male plants have flowers that produce pollen, the females receive the pollen to fertilise their ovules and grow fruit; most kiwifruit requires a male plant to pollinate the female plant. For a good yield of fruit, one male vine for every three to eight female vines is considered adequate. Some varieties can self pollinate, but even they produce a greater and more reliable yield when pollinated by male kiwifruit.Cross-species pollination is often (but not always) successful as long as bloom times are synchronised.
In nature, the species are pollinated by birds and native bumblebees, which visit the flowers for pollen, not nectar. The female flowers produce fake anthers with what appears to be pollen on the tips in order to attract the pollinators, although these fake anthers lack the DNA and food value of the male anthers.
Kiwifruit growers rely on honey bees, the principal ‘for-hire’ pollinator. But commercially grown kiwifruit is notoriously difficult to pollinate. The flowers are not very attractive to honey bees, in part because the flowers do not produce nectar and bees quickly learn to prefer flowers with nectar.
And for kiwifruit, honey bees are inefficient cross-pollinators because they practice “floral fidelity”. Each honey bee visits only a single type of flower in any foray and maybe only a few branches of a single plant. The pollen needed from a different plant (such as a male for a female kiwifruit) might never reach it were it not for the cross-pollination that principally occurs in the crowded colony. It is in the colonies where bees laden with different pollen literally cross paths.
To deal with these pollination challenges, some producers blow collected pollen over the female flowers. Most common, though, is saturation pollination, where the honey bee populations are made so large (by placing hives in the orchards at a concentration of about 8 hives per hectare) that bees are forced to use this flower because of intense competition for all flowers within flight distance.
Maturation and harvest
Kiwifruit is picked by hand and commercially grown on sturdy support structures, as it can produce several tonnes per hectare, more than the rather weak vines can support. These are generally equipped with a watering system for irrigation and frost protection in the spring.
Kiwifruit vines require vigorous pruning, similar to that of grapevines. Fruit is borne on one-year-old and older canes, but production declines as each cane ages. Canes should be pruned off and replaced after their third year. In the northern hemisphere the fruit ripens in November, while in the southern it ripens in May. Four year-old plants can produce up to 14,000 lbs per acre while eight year-old plants can produce 18,000 lbs per acre. The plants produce their maximum at 8 to 10 years old. The seasonal yields are variable, a heavy crop on a vine one season generally comes with a light crop the following season.
*Nutrition
In a 100-gram amount, green kiwifruit provides 61 calories, is 83% water and 15% carbohydrates, with negligible protein and fat. It is particularly rich (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) in vitamin C (112% DV) and vitamin K (38% DV), has a moderate content of vitamin E (10% DV), with no other micronutrients in significant content. Gold kiwifruit has similar nutritional value, although only vitamin C has high content in a 100 gram amount (194% DV).
Kiwifruit seed oil contains on average 62% alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid. Kiwifruit pulp contains carotenoids, such as provitamin A beta-carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin.
Kiwifruit is native to central and eastern China. The first recorded description of the kiwifruit dates to the 12th century during the Song dynasty. In the early 20th century, cultivation of kiwifruit spread from China to New Zealand, where the first commercial plantings occurred. The fruit became popular with British and American servicemen stationed in New Zealand during World War II, and later became commonly exported, first to Great Britain and then to California in the 1960s.
Kiwifruit can be grown in most temperate climates with adequate summer heat. Where fuzzy kiwifruit is not hardy, other species can be grown as substitutes.
*Breeding
Often in commercial farming, different breeds are used for rootstock, fruit bearing plants and pollinators. Therefore, the seeds produced are crossbreeds of their parents. Even if the same breeds are used for pollinators and fruit bearing plants, there is no guarantee that the fruit will have the same quality as the parent. Additionally, seedlings take seven years before they flower, so determining whether the kiwi is fruit bearing or a pollinator is time-consuming. Therefore, most kiwifruits, with the exception of rootstock and new cultivars, are propagated asexually. This is done by grafting the fruit producing plant onto rootstock grown from seedlings or, if the plant is desired to be a true cultivar, rootstock grown from cuttings of a mature plant.
*Pollination
Kiwifruit flowering
Kiwifruit plants generally are dioecious, meaning a plant is either male or female. The male plants have flowers that produce pollen, the females receive the pollen to fertilise their ovules and grow fruit; most kiwifruit requires a male plant to pollinate the female plant. For a good yield of fruit, one male vine for every three to eight female vines is considered adequate. Some varieties can self pollinate, but even they produce a greater and more reliable yield when pollinated by male kiwifruit.Cross-species pollination is often (but not always) successful as long as bloom times are synchronised.
In nature, the species are pollinated by birds and native bumblebees, which visit the flowers for pollen, not nectar. The female flowers produce fake anthers with what appears to be pollen on the tips in order to attract the pollinators, although these fake anthers lack the DNA and food value of the male anthers.
Kiwifruit growers rely on honey bees, the principal ‘for-hire’ pollinator. But commercially grown kiwifruit is notoriously difficult to pollinate. The flowers are not very attractive to honey bees, in part because the flowers do not produce nectar and bees quickly learn to prefer flowers with nectar.
And for kiwifruit, honey bees are inefficient cross-pollinators because they practice “floral fidelity”. Each honey bee visits only a single type of flower in any foray and maybe only a few branches of a single plant. The pollen needed from a different plant (such as a male for a female kiwifruit) might never reach it were it not for the cross-pollination that principally occurs in the crowded colony. It is in the colonies where bees laden with different pollen literally cross paths.
To deal with these pollination challenges, some producers blow collected pollen over the female flowers. Most common, though, is saturation pollination, where the honey bee populations are made so large (by placing hives in the orchards at a concentration of about 8 hives per hectare) that bees are forced to use this flower because of intense competition for all flowers within flight distance.
Maturation and harvest
Kiwifruit is picked by hand and commercially grown on sturdy support structures, as it can produce several tonnes per hectare, more than the rather weak vines can support. These are generally equipped with a watering system for irrigation and frost protection in the spring.
Kiwifruit vines require vigorous pruning, similar to that of grapevines. Fruit is borne on one-year-old and older canes, but production declines as each cane ages. Canes should be pruned off and replaced after their third year. In the northern hemisphere the fruit ripens in November, while in the southern it ripens in May. Four year-old plants can produce up to 14,000 lbs per acre while eight year-old plants can produce 18,000 lbs per acre. The plants produce their maximum at 8 to 10 years old. The seasonal yields are variable, a heavy crop on a vine one season generally comes with a light crop the following season.
*Nutrition
In a 100-gram amount, green kiwifruit provides 61 calories, is 83% water and 15% carbohydrates, with negligible protein and fat. It is particularly rich (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) in vitamin C (112% DV) and vitamin K (38% DV), has a moderate content of vitamin E (10% DV), with no other micronutrients in significant content. Gold kiwifruit has similar nutritional value, although only vitamin C has high content in a 100 gram amount (194% DV).
Kiwifruit seed oil contains on average 62% alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid. Kiwifruit pulp contains carotenoids, such as provitamin A beta-carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin.
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文章
A🎌王木木💮
2019年11月13日
Heralds of spring, these little bulbs are among the first plants to flower in the new year. Planted in generous drifts, they are sturdier than they look, even pushing up their heads above a carpet of snow.
Botanical name: Galanthus
Family:Amaryllidaceae
Genus:Galanthus are dwarf bulbous perennials with linear or strap-shaped leaves, and solitary, often honey-scented, nodding flowers with 3 white outer tepals and 3 smaller inner ones often marked with green
Details:'Sentinel' is a clump-forming, bulbous perennial with grey-green leaves and large, mid-season flowers borne on upright stems to 16cm tall. Flowers have white, ridged outer petals and inner petals marked top and bottom with well-defined zones of green
How to grow:
Cultivation Grow in humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil that does not dry out in summer, in sun or partial shade. See snowdrop cultivation
Propagation Propagate by division when foliage dies back
Suggested planting locations and garden types Banks and Slopes Flower borders and beds Garden Edging Low Maintenance Underplanting of Roses and Shrubs City & Courtyard Gardens Cottage & Informal Garden Patio & Container Plants Rock Garden
How to care:
Pruning No pruning required
Pests May be attacked by narcissus bulb fly
Diseases May be subject to snowdrop grey mould
Botanical name: Galanthus
Family:Amaryllidaceae
Genus:Galanthus are dwarf bulbous perennials with linear or strap-shaped leaves, and solitary, often honey-scented, nodding flowers with 3 white outer tepals and 3 smaller inner ones often marked with green
Details:'Sentinel' is a clump-forming, bulbous perennial with grey-green leaves and large, mid-season flowers borne on upright stems to 16cm tall. Flowers have white, ridged outer petals and inner petals marked top and bottom with well-defined zones of green
How to grow:
Cultivation Grow in humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil that does not dry out in summer, in sun or partial shade. See snowdrop cultivation
Propagation Propagate by division when foliage dies back
Suggested planting locations and garden types Banks and Slopes Flower borders and beds Garden Edging Low Maintenance Underplanting of Roses and Shrubs City & Courtyard Gardens Cottage & Informal Garden Patio & Container Plants Rock Garden
How to care:
Pruning No pruning required
Pests May be attacked by narcissus bulb fly
Diseases May be subject to snowdrop grey mould
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文章
绿手指客服
2019年11月12日
GFinger has been 3rd anniversary!
Now the GFinger can download for free!
The new version of the GFinger has added the GreenBean function.
To get GreenBean:
1: Watch the video to get GreenBean, reward 30 GreenBean every time you watch the video.
2: Share the App to your friends and get GreenBean, reward 10 GreenBean every time, once a day.
3: Share the invitation code to your friends. After your friends download and regist the App, enter the invitation code and you can get 150 GreenBean.
How to use GreenBeen:
Post help, add flower, send dynamics, post diary and upload picture are all need to consume GreenBean
Post help - 50 GreenBean
Add flower -10 GreenBean
Send dynamic -10 GreenBean
Post diary -10 GreenBean
Upload picture -10 GreenBean
More new features will be launched later, so stay tuned!
Now the GFinger can download for free!
The new version of the GFinger has added the GreenBean function.
To get GreenBean:
1: Watch the video to get GreenBean, reward 30 GreenBean every time you watch the video.
2: Share the App to your friends and get GreenBean, reward 10 GreenBean every time, once a day.
3: Share the invitation code to your friends. After your friends download and regist the App, enter the invitation code and you can get 150 GreenBean.
How to use GreenBeen:
Post help, add flower, send dynamics, post diary and upload picture are all need to consume GreenBean
Post help - 50 GreenBean
Add flower -10 GreenBean
Send dynamic -10 GreenBean
Post diary -10 GreenBean
Upload picture -10 GreenBean
More new features will be launched later, so stay tuned!
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lrgarden：@Catarina ZS we will release new apk
Catarina ZS：@Catarina ZS Was the Android version finished???
Catarina ZS：Was the Android version finished.
