成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月27日
Some new growth! She seems happy in this spot
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damian saul：what?? this is a Adiantum chilense
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Every flower gardener should know the pleasure of growing Clematis. If you already have one in your garden, you’re probably scheming about how to squeeze in another! New to Clematis? Read on and discover how easy it is to be successful with the “queen of climbers”.
Selecting
Clematis have become a hugely popular perennial, and today, the average local garden center offers dozens of different choices. When selecting a Clematis for your garden, you’ll want to think about a couple things, which include its mature height, flower form and color.
If you have room for a vigorous 10- or 20-foot (3 or 6 m) Clematis vine, there are many wonderful cultivars that will fit the bill. There are also more compact varieties that are perfectly happy growing in a small garden or even in a pot on the patio.
The standard Clematis flower form is a large blossom with 6 or 7 petals, measuring 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) across. There are also cultivars with smaller blossoms, double blossoms, and lovely bell-like flowers. Colors range from white to wine red, lavender to deep purple, and there are even a few yellow ones.
It can take several years for a Clematis vine to mature and begin flowering vigorously. To shorten the wait and help ensure your success, it’s best to purchase a plant that’s at least 2 years old. Look for a container-grown plant in a quart or gallon-size pot. If you’re shopping for your Clematis at a garden center or nursery, select a robust plant that’s showing vigorous growth, rather than a weak plant with a beautiful picture.
Where to Plant
Hopefully you have a planting location in mind before you bring home your new Clematis . Ideally it’s a sunny spot.
Clematis prefer moist, well-drained soil that’s neutral to slightly alkaline in pH. If your soil tends to be acidic, you should sweeten it periodically with limestone or a little wood ash. Dig a good hole for your new Clematis, working in lots of compost and some granular organic fertilizer.
Be very gentle when settling the plant into its new home; the roots, crown and emerging vines of Clematis can be easily broken. Position the plant slightly deeper than it was growing in the pot, so the first set of true leaves is just under the soil surface. Water weekly for the first season, to help the plant get established. If you can get your Clematis through its first year, chances are good that it will continue to thrive. Mulching around the base of the plant will help conserve moisture, but keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.
Clematis are happiest with cool shade at their roots and warm sun on their foliage. Mulching around the roots will help keep the soil cool, as will the foliage of a low-growing perennial.
How to Support
Like other climbing plants, the growing end of a Clematis vine is searching for something to grab onto, and if it can’t find anything, it will stop growing. Make sure you provide it with something to climb on from day one.
A Clematis vine does not climb by twining around something, as a Pole Bean or a Morning Glory does. It climbs by wrapping its leaf stems around something. Because these leaf stems are not very long, anything that’s more than about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter is too wide for the leaf stem to twist around. The easiest things for a Clematis to grab onto, are twine, fishing line, wire, thin branches, wooden dowels or steel rods. The more grabbing opportunities you offer, the better, so even if you have a nice trellis, consider adding some twine “helper” lines, or covering your trellis with a grid of trellis netting.
Depending on the vigor of the plant and the type of trellis you have, you’ll probably need to do some “trussing” during the season to help support the vines and keep them attached to the trellis. Both fishing line and twine work well for this job.
Pruning and Care
Clematis vary in their need for pruning. Some types flower on last year’s vines, so you want to avoid cutting them to the ground in the spring. Others flower on current-year vines, so they don’t mind being cut to the ground each year. Rather than driving yourself crazy trying to keep track of the ideal pruning technique for each cultivar, try this common-sense approach: leave the prior year’s growth in place until mid-spring. Begin pruning only when you can see which vines are dead and which ones are starting to leaf out.
A happy clematis plant puts out an amazing amount of flowers and foliage. Feed your plants well to keep them healthy and vigorous. In early spring, surround the plant with a shovelful of compost and a handful of granular organic fertilizer. Feed again, once or twice during the growing season, with a water-soluble organic fertilizer.
Selecting
Clematis have become a hugely popular perennial, and today, the average local garden center offers dozens of different choices. When selecting a Clematis for your garden, you’ll want to think about a couple things, which include its mature height, flower form and color.
If you have room for a vigorous 10- or 20-foot (3 or 6 m) Clematis vine, there are many wonderful cultivars that will fit the bill. There are also more compact varieties that are perfectly happy growing in a small garden or even in a pot on the patio.
The standard Clematis flower form is a large blossom with 6 or 7 petals, measuring 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) across. There are also cultivars with smaller blossoms, double blossoms, and lovely bell-like flowers. Colors range from white to wine red, lavender to deep purple, and there are even a few yellow ones.
It can take several years for a Clematis vine to mature and begin flowering vigorously. To shorten the wait and help ensure your success, it’s best to purchase a plant that’s at least 2 years old. Look for a container-grown plant in a quart or gallon-size pot. If you’re shopping for your Clematis at a garden center or nursery, select a robust plant that’s showing vigorous growth, rather than a weak plant with a beautiful picture.
Where to Plant
Hopefully you have a planting location in mind before you bring home your new Clematis . Ideally it’s a sunny spot.
Clematis prefer moist, well-drained soil that’s neutral to slightly alkaline in pH. If your soil tends to be acidic, you should sweeten it periodically with limestone or a little wood ash. Dig a good hole for your new Clematis, working in lots of compost and some granular organic fertilizer.
Be very gentle when settling the plant into its new home; the roots, crown and emerging vines of Clematis can be easily broken. Position the plant slightly deeper than it was growing in the pot, so the first set of true leaves is just under the soil surface. Water weekly for the first season, to help the plant get established. If you can get your Clematis through its first year, chances are good that it will continue to thrive. Mulching around the base of the plant will help conserve moisture, but keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.
Clematis are happiest with cool shade at their roots and warm sun on their foliage. Mulching around the roots will help keep the soil cool, as will the foliage of a low-growing perennial.
How to Support
Like other climbing plants, the growing end of a Clematis vine is searching for something to grab onto, and if it can’t find anything, it will stop growing. Make sure you provide it with something to climb on from day one.
A Clematis vine does not climb by twining around something, as a Pole Bean or a Morning Glory does. It climbs by wrapping its leaf stems around something. Because these leaf stems are not very long, anything that’s more than about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter is too wide for the leaf stem to twist around. The easiest things for a Clematis to grab onto, are twine, fishing line, wire, thin branches, wooden dowels or steel rods. The more grabbing opportunities you offer, the better, so even if you have a nice trellis, consider adding some twine “helper” lines, or covering your trellis with a grid of trellis netting.
Depending on the vigor of the plant and the type of trellis you have, you’ll probably need to do some “trussing” during the season to help support the vines and keep them attached to the trellis. Both fishing line and twine work well for this job.
Pruning and Care
Clematis vary in their need for pruning. Some types flower on last year’s vines, so you want to avoid cutting them to the ground in the spring. Others flower on current-year vines, so they don’t mind being cut to the ground each year. Rather than driving yourself crazy trying to keep track of the ideal pruning technique for each cultivar, try this common-sense approach: leave the prior year’s growth in place until mid-spring. Begin pruning only when you can see which vines are dead and which ones are starting to leaf out.
A happy clematis plant puts out an amazing amount of flowers and foliage. Feed your plants well to keep them healthy and vigorous. In early spring, surround the plant with a shovelful of compost and a handful of granular organic fertilizer. Feed again, once or twice during the growing season, with a water-soluble organic fertilizer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Pieris japonica is a species of fantastic evergreen spring shrub which put on a spectacular display of white or pink, bell-shaped flowers and colorful new growth which ranges from pale pink to dark burgundy. It is a member of the Heath family and is originally from the forested mountain regions of China, Japan and Taiwan, and often called Lily of the Valley Bush, Japanese Pieris or Japanese Andromeda. It is a shrubs or small tree which in the wild can reach up to 33 feet (10 m), but the cultivated varieties available from garden centers are more likely to be small and compact or just reaching a height of up to 13 feet (4 m). They are fairly slow growing so even if you buy one of the larger varieties they will probably take up to 20 years to reach their maximum height. They are toxic to people and animals so make sure they are planted in a position where farm stock cannot reach them. They go well with other ericaceous woodland plants such as Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, as they all enjoy the same conditions.
Position
As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.
Planting
Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.
Aftercare
It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.
Containers
Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage. Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.
Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.
Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.
Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.
Position
As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.
Planting
Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.
Aftercare
It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.
Containers
Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage. Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.
Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.
Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.
Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Roses (genus Rosa) are some of the most popular and beautiful flowering shrubs grown, but starting a rose garden may seem daunting to new gardeners. However, growing roses for beginners doesn’t have to be a stressful endeavor. In fact, with proper planting and care, nearly anyone can become a successful rose gardener.
Growing Conditions
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
General Care
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. While overhead watering is suitable before the onset of new growth, it is often better to water these plants at the soil line using soaker hoses or similar means. Rose bushes are very susceptible to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Fertilizer for roses should also be applied in spring, following the label instructions carefully. However, with the addition of well-rotted manure each spring, this is usually adequate. Mulching your rose bush will help retain moisture and may also offer some winter protection.
Pruning is another aspect to consider when caring for rose bushes. This often takes place once leaf buds appear in spring. Make cuts about 1/4 inch (8 mm) above the bud eyes and prune out any twiggy or unhealthy branches.
Starting a rose garden and knowing how to take care of roses shouldn’t be intimidating. In fact, it’s easier than you might think. Just give them what they need and before you know it, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.
Growing Conditions
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
General Care
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. While overhead watering is suitable before the onset of new growth, it is often better to water these plants at the soil line using soaker hoses or similar means. Rose bushes are very susceptible to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Fertilizer for roses should also be applied in spring, following the label instructions carefully. However, with the addition of well-rotted manure each spring, this is usually adequate. Mulching your rose bush will help retain moisture and may also offer some winter protection.
Pruning is another aspect to consider when caring for rose bushes. This often takes place once leaf buds appear in spring. Make cuts about 1/4 inch (8 mm) above the bud eyes and prune out any twiggy or unhealthy branches.
Starting a rose garden and knowing how to take care of roses shouldn’t be intimidating. In fact, it’s easier than you might think. Just give them what they need and before you know it, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.
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