文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
Scientific Name
Yucca gloriosa L.
Common Names
Spanish Dagger, Adam’s Needle, Lord’s Candlestick, Mound Lily, Mound Lily Yucca, Palm Lily, Roman Candle, Sea Islands Yucca, Soft Tip Yucca, Soft Tipped Yucca, Spanish Bayonet, Tree Lily, Curve Leaf Yucca, Pendulous Yucca, Weeping Yucca
Scientific Classification
Family: Asparagaceae
Subfamily: Agavoideae
Genus: Yucca
Description
Yucca gloriosa is an evergreen, medium-sized shrub, usually with single stem (rarely with several stems arising from the base), up to 8 feet (2.5 m) tall. The sword-like leaves are stiff, glaucous-green in color, up to 20 inches (50 cm) long and up to 2.8 inches (7 cm) wide at the base. The bell-shaped creamy-white flowers, sometimes tinged with red or purple are borne on panicles up to 6.5 feet (2 m) long.
How to Grow and Care
Under the right conditions, Yucca are not difficult plants to grow. They tend to thrive on a little neglect, rather than too much attention. They are especially easy to overwater, and soggy stems are a sign of too much water. The best conditions for Yucca include a sunny corner with relatively low humidity. They are not prone to many pests, although scale can be an issue. Over time, plants will typically lose their lower leaves (in nature, they droop, forming a skirt around the trunk), giving the plant a pleasant “tree-like” appearance.
Yucca are relatively slow-growing plants that should only need to be repotted every other year. They do well slightly pot-bound, as long as they don’t become heavy enough to tip over their containers… – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Yucca.
Origin
Native to the southern United States, from North Carolina to Florida.
Yucca gloriosa L.
Common Names
Spanish Dagger, Adam’s Needle, Lord’s Candlestick, Mound Lily, Mound Lily Yucca, Palm Lily, Roman Candle, Sea Islands Yucca, Soft Tip Yucca, Soft Tipped Yucca, Spanish Bayonet, Tree Lily, Curve Leaf Yucca, Pendulous Yucca, Weeping Yucca
Scientific Classification
Family: Asparagaceae
Subfamily: Agavoideae
Genus: Yucca
Description
Yucca gloriosa is an evergreen, medium-sized shrub, usually with single stem (rarely with several stems arising from the base), up to 8 feet (2.5 m) tall. The sword-like leaves are stiff, glaucous-green in color, up to 20 inches (50 cm) long and up to 2.8 inches (7 cm) wide at the base. The bell-shaped creamy-white flowers, sometimes tinged with red or purple are borne on panicles up to 6.5 feet (2 m) long.
How to Grow and Care
Under the right conditions, Yucca are not difficult plants to grow. They tend to thrive on a little neglect, rather than too much attention. They are especially easy to overwater, and soggy stems are a sign of too much water. The best conditions for Yucca include a sunny corner with relatively low humidity. They are not prone to many pests, although scale can be an issue. Over time, plants will typically lose their lower leaves (in nature, they droop, forming a skirt around the trunk), giving the plant a pleasant “tree-like” appearance.
Yucca are relatively slow-growing plants that should only need to be repotted every other year. They do well slightly pot-bound, as long as they don’t become heavy enough to tip over their containers… – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Yucca.
Origin
Native to the southern United States, from North Carolina to Florida.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The genus Saintpaulia, also known as African Violets are one of the world’s most popular houseplants, and for good reason. These compact, low-growing plants flower several times a year, and they are available in a multitude of leaf forms and colors. Don’t be put off by their reputation for difficulty: providing you follow a few simple rules, African Violets should thrive indoors. With a little experience, it’s possible to keep them in flower nearly all year round and grow them to the size of dinner plates.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) above the leaves.
Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don’t allow the plant to sit in water.
Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF (15ºC). They thrive at 70ºF (21ºC).
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential. Poor drainage can cause root rot, in which the plant becomes waterlogged and its leaves begin to fall, so make sure that the plant is never allowed to be exposed to standing water for an extended period of time.
Fertilizer: Feed with a African Violet fertilizer every other week.
Repotting
African Violets do better when they are slightly underpotted. Repot only when necessary into a pot that is one size up. To repot these plants, simply grab the plant as a whole, lift it, and replace it into a larger container, making sure not to damage their root systems in the process. Common signs that a plant is stressed out and needs to be repotted include falling leaves and overcrowding, as well as roots that protrude from the surface of the soil. Keep an eye out and repot if you think it’ll help.
Propagation
African Violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.
Grower’s Tips
African Violets will thrive in bright, warm and humid conditions. Keep water from touching their leaves or it will leave brown spots. Remove dead flowers and leaves as soon as you seen them to encourage a healthier plant. Regularly check the soil and plant to make sure there is no accumulation of dead leaves. This will encourage rot. Growing these houseplants is really a matter of balance; you have to make sure that the different factors that go into their cultivation all are weighted against each other. They should be kept in moist enough conditions that they don’t dry out, yet still exposed to a fresh breeze to avoid letting them get too stuffy, and exposed to sunlight without damaging their leaf tips. Don’t be discouraged if your African Violets suffer some damage — it’s all part of the process.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) above the leaves.
Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don’t allow the plant to sit in water.
Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF (15ºC). They thrive at 70ºF (21ºC).
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential. Poor drainage can cause root rot, in which the plant becomes waterlogged and its leaves begin to fall, so make sure that the plant is never allowed to be exposed to standing water for an extended period of time.
Fertilizer: Feed with a African Violet fertilizer every other week.
Repotting
African Violets do better when they are slightly underpotted. Repot only when necessary into a pot that is one size up. To repot these plants, simply grab the plant as a whole, lift it, and replace it into a larger container, making sure not to damage their root systems in the process. Common signs that a plant is stressed out and needs to be repotted include falling leaves and overcrowding, as well as roots that protrude from the surface of the soil. Keep an eye out and repot if you think it’ll help.
Propagation
African Violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.
Grower’s Tips
African Violets will thrive in bright, warm and humid conditions. Keep water from touching their leaves or it will leave brown spots. Remove dead flowers and leaves as soon as you seen them to encourage a healthier plant. Regularly check the soil and plant to make sure there is no accumulation of dead leaves. This will encourage rot. Growing these houseplants is really a matter of balance; you have to make sure that the different factors that go into their cultivation all are weighted against each other. They should be kept in moist enough conditions that they don’t dry out, yet still exposed to a fresh breeze to avoid letting them get too stuffy, and exposed to sunlight without damaging their leaf tips. Don’t be discouraged if your African Violets suffer some damage — it’s all part of the process.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Pelargonium peltatum (L.) L’Hér.
Common Names
Ivy-leaved Geranium, Ivy-leaf Geranium, Ivy Geranium, Cascading Geranium, Hanging Geranium
Synonyms
Dibrachya clypeata, Dibrachya peltata, Geraniospermum lateripes, Geraniospermum peltatum, Geranium peltatum, Pelargonium lateripes, Pelargonium x peltatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Geraniaceae
Genus: Pelargonium
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Spring and early summer
Description
Pelargonium peltatum is a climbing, semi-succulent perennial, trailing through other trees and shrubs in its habitat. The climber has long, straggling shoots, which can reach up to 6.5 feet (2 m). This plant is characterized by its ivy-shaped leaves. Some of the leaves have distinctive zonal markings, but this is not a common characteristic. The inflorescence is an umbel of 2 to 9 pink flowers, with 5 dark-streaked or marked petals each up to 0.8 inch (2 cm) long. It flowers mainly in spring and early summer.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 9b to 11b: from 25 °F (−3.9 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Work organic compost into high-quality container potting soil that contains ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. Use this compost/soil mixture to fill pots for your Pelargoniums. Good drainage is essential to Pelargoniums so choose containers with adequate drainage holes. If your Pelargoniums are already in pots, spread organic compost lightly on the soil surface and work in, taking care not to dig up the plant’s roots.
Choose locations getting direct sun for most Pelargoniums. They need at least six hours of sun daily. Martha Washington and Regal types prefer a site that is shady in the afternoon. All Pelargoniums need afternoon shade if your area regularly sees summer temperatures exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
Feed your Pelargoniums every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Buy fertilizer that dissolves in water for easier application. Every third watering, add Epsom salts — magnesium sulfate — to the plant water — 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon — to provide magnesium. Or, add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil mix when you plant the geraniums in the pot — it feeds them all season.
Origin
Native to southern Africa, particularly South Africa.
Pelargonium peltatum (L.) L’Hér.
Common Names
Ivy-leaved Geranium, Ivy-leaf Geranium, Ivy Geranium, Cascading Geranium, Hanging Geranium
Synonyms
Dibrachya clypeata, Dibrachya peltata, Geraniospermum lateripes, Geraniospermum peltatum, Geranium peltatum, Pelargonium lateripes, Pelargonium x peltatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Geraniaceae
Genus: Pelargonium
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Spring and early summer
Description
Pelargonium peltatum is a climbing, semi-succulent perennial, trailing through other trees and shrubs in its habitat. The climber has long, straggling shoots, which can reach up to 6.5 feet (2 m). This plant is characterized by its ivy-shaped leaves. Some of the leaves have distinctive zonal markings, but this is not a common characteristic. The inflorescence is an umbel of 2 to 9 pink flowers, with 5 dark-streaked or marked petals each up to 0.8 inch (2 cm) long. It flowers mainly in spring and early summer.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 9b to 11b: from 25 °F (−3.9 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Work organic compost into high-quality container potting soil that contains ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. Use this compost/soil mixture to fill pots for your Pelargoniums. Good drainage is essential to Pelargoniums so choose containers with adequate drainage holes. If your Pelargoniums are already in pots, spread organic compost lightly on the soil surface and work in, taking care not to dig up the plant’s roots.
Choose locations getting direct sun for most Pelargoniums. They need at least six hours of sun daily. Martha Washington and Regal types prefer a site that is shady in the afternoon. All Pelargoniums need afternoon shade if your area regularly sees summer temperatures exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
Feed your Pelargoniums every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Buy fertilizer that dissolves in water for easier application. Every third watering, add Epsom salts — magnesium sulfate — to the plant water — 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon — to provide magnesium. Or, add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil mix when you plant the geraniums in the pot — it feeds them all season.
Origin
Native to southern Africa, particularly South Africa.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Pelargonium cucullatum (L.) L’Hér.
Common Names
Wilde Malva, Hooded-Leaf Pelargonium, Tree Pelargonium
Synonyms
Pelargonium angulosum, Pelargonium cucullatum subsp. cucullatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Geraniaceae
Genus: Pelargonium
Flower
Color: Purple or pink
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Pelargonium cucullatum is a fast-growing, fairly tall, sprawling shrub, up to 6.6 feet (2 m) tall. The leaves are up to 3.1 inches (8 cm) wide, grow upwards, forming circular bowls with jagged, red-tipped edges. The flowers are faintly scented, purple or pink and appear for several months over the summer.
How to Grow and Care
Work organic compost into high-quality container potting soil that contains ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. Use this compost/soil mixture to fill pots for your Pelargoniums. Good drainage is essential to Pelargoniums so choose containers with adequate drainage holes. If your Pelargoniums are already in pots, spread organic compost lightly on the soil surface and work in, taking care not to dig up the plant’s roots.
Choose locations getting direct sun for most Pelargoniums. They need at least six hours of sun daily. Martha Washington and Regal types prefer a site that is shady in the afternoon. All Pelargoniums need afternoon shade if your area regularly sees summer temperatures exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
Feed your Pelargoniums every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Buy fertilizer that dissolves in water for easier application. Every third watering, add Epsom salts — magnesium sulfate — to the plant water — 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon — to provide magnesium. Or, add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil mix when you plant the geraniums in the pot — it feeds them all season.
Origin
Native to the south-western Cape of South Africa.
Pelargonium cucullatum (L.) L’Hér.
Common Names
Wilde Malva, Hooded-Leaf Pelargonium, Tree Pelargonium
Synonyms
Pelargonium angulosum, Pelargonium cucullatum subsp. cucullatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Geraniaceae
Genus: Pelargonium
Flower
Color: Purple or pink
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Pelargonium cucullatum is a fast-growing, fairly tall, sprawling shrub, up to 6.6 feet (2 m) tall. The leaves are up to 3.1 inches (8 cm) wide, grow upwards, forming circular bowls with jagged, red-tipped edges. The flowers are faintly scented, purple or pink and appear for several months over the summer.
How to Grow and Care
Work organic compost into high-quality container potting soil that contains ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. Use this compost/soil mixture to fill pots for your Pelargoniums. Good drainage is essential to Pelargoniums so choose containers with adequate drainage holes. If your Pelargoniums are already in pots, spread organic compost lightly on the soil surface and work in, taking care not to dig up the plant’s roots.
Choose locations getting direct sun for most Pelargoniums. They need at least six hours of sun daily. Martha Washington and Regal types prefer a site that is shady in the afternoon. All Pelargoniums need afternoon shade if your area regularly sees summer temperatures exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
Feed your Pelargoniums every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Buy fertilizer that dissolves in water for easier application. Every third watering, add Epsom salts — magnesium sulfate — to the plant water — 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon — to provide magnesium. Or, add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil mix when you plant the geraniums in the pot — it feeds them all season.
Origin
Native to the south-western Cape of South Africa.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) is a broad leaf evergreen that grows and flowers well in full sun to part shade, making it a versatile shrub in the landscape. The broad, dark green leaves provide interest all year long. In spring clusters of cup-shaped flowers open in shade of white, pink and red. It’s a favorite of bees and butterflies.
The shrub grows naturally in the filtered light under tall deciduous trees such as oak and maple, especially near a wet, swampy area. It flowers best, though, with more sun in an open landscape, but the leaves may turn a yellow-green color in full sun.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Mountain Laurel is hardy to zone 5. In colder areas it will need to be protected in winter with burlap barriers to block the winter wind.
Purchase plants from your local garden center. Look for the hardiest varieties for cold areas. Plant shrubs from spring, after all danger of frost has passed, to summer in well drained, moist, acidic, cool soils. Avoid windy areas, if possible. Space plants 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart.
Propagation
Start seeds indoors in spring at 43 to 54 °F (6 to 12 °C). Take greenwood cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer. Layer in late summer.
Grower’s Tips
Keep young shrubs well watered. Keep the soil evenly moist and acidic with a layer of wood chips or evergreen bark mulch. Fertilize mountain laurel in spring with a plant food for acidic-loving plants such as you’d use for Rhododendrons.
Mountain Laurel will get spindly, develop leaf spots and have few flowers if grown in too much shade. Look for leaf spot resistant varieties if growing under these conditions. It also doesn’t grow well in poorly drained soils. It’s a slow grower that should only be pruned to shape the plant in spring after flowering. Dead, diseased and broken branches can be taken out at any time. Mountain laurel doesn’t have many pest problems.
The shrub grows naturally in the filtered light under tall deciduous trees such as oak and maple, especially near a wet, swampy area. It flowers best, though, with more sun in an open landscape, but the leaves may turn a yellow-green color in full sun.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Mountain Laurel is hardy to zone 5. In colder areas it will need to be protected in winter with burlap barriers to block the winter wind.
Purchase plants from your local garden center. Look for the hardiest varieties for cold areas. Plant shrubs from spring, after all danger of frost has passed, to summer in well drained, moist, acidic, cool soils. Avoid windy areas, if possible. Space plants 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart.
Propagation
Start seeds indoors in spring at 43 to 54 °F (6 to 12 °C). Take greenwood cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer. Layer in late summer.
Grower’s Tips
Keep young shrubs well watered. Keep the soil evenly moist and acidic with a layer of wood chips or evergreen bark mulch. Fertilize mountain laurel in spring with a plant food for acidic-loving plants such as you’d use for Rhododendrons.
Mountain Laurel will get spindly, develop leaf spots and have few flowers if grown in too much shade. Look for leaf spot resistant varieties if growing under these conditions. It also doesn’t grow well in poorly drained soils. It’s a slow grower that should only be pruned to shape the plant in spring after flowering. Dead, diseased and broken branches can be taken out at any time. Mountain laurel doesn’t have many pest problems.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Grammatophyllum is a genus of 13 currently known orchid species. The name is derived from the Greek words “gramma” (a line or streak or mark) and “phyllon” (leaf), referring to the parallel leaf veins or the markings of the perianth. This epiphytic genus occurs in dense rainforest from Indo-China, to Indonesia, the Philippines, New Guinea, and the Southwest Pacific islands.
There are two distinct growth forms in this genus. The first has very long pseudobulbs, resembling sugar cane, bearing many leaves, arranged distichous (alternating in two opposite ranks). The second has rather short thick psuedobulbs which are not covered leaf bases and bear a few leaves around the top of the psuedobulbs. The psuedobulbs are sympodial in growth, with each new growth arising from the previous growth. The flowers of most Grammatophyllum species, are generally yellow and brown.
Light
Grammatophyllums grow well in moderate light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. Lime green colored foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching it’s full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. In very mild climates, most members of this can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter.
Temperature
The ideal annual temperature range for most members of the genus Grammatophyllum are 75 to 85 °F (24 to 30 °C) during the day and 55 to 60 °F (13 to 16 °C) at night. Plants will tolerate temperatures to 45 °F (10 °C) and up to 100 °F (38 °C) for short periods. At higher temperatures, air circulation and humidity must be increased or damage can occur.
Water
Grammatophyllums enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a 2 or 3 week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness, before rewatering. In the warmer periods, several waterings a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth.
Fertilizer
Grammatophyllum plants should be fed consistently, when in full growth. During the spring through early fall, fertilizing every 7 days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Grammatophyllum plants happy. In the late fall through winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice.
The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-10-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not.
Whichever formula is selected, we recommend half strength at each application. As with most Orchids, Grammatophyllum roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up. Grammatophyllums are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. The organic fertilizers eliminate concern of salt build up in the medium.
Potting
Grammatophyllum do not resent being disturbed, so repotting should be undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is after all flowering has ceased and new growth is just beginning. To minimize root damage, a warm water soak for 10 minutes, will make most roots very pliable and easier to remove from the container.
While most Grammatophyllums will do well in clay or plastic pots. Some large-growing types such as Grammatophyllum speciosum are best grown in a wire or wooden basket. The strong rapid growing root system often breaks ordinary pots. The baskets allow free air flow over the roots, and eliminate over watering problems.
The potting medium must be well-drained, i.e. coarse fir bark, lava rock, pieces of broken pottery, chunks of tree fern, hardwood charcoal, etc. so that the roots can be wet, but then dry quickly.
When dividing Grammatophyllum plants, always divide into parts with at least four psuedobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth begins. At that time, usually a week or so, repot the divisions in their new pots. Now the plants can be watered and fertilized as usual, without worrying about rotting them, because they retained no roots in the division. Newly repotted plants should be placed in slightly lower light for several weeks.
There are two distinct growth forms in this genus. The first has very long pseudobulbs, resembling sugar cane, bearing many leaves, arranged distichous (alternating in two opposite ranks). The second has rather short thick psuedobulbs which are not covered leaf bases and bear a few leaves around the top of the psuedobulbs. The psuedobulbs are sympodial in growth, with each new growth arising from the previous growth. The flowers of most Grammatophyllum species, are generally yellow and brown.
Light
Grammatophyllums grow well in moderate light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. Lime green colored foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching it’s full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. In very mild climates, most members of this can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter.
Temperature
The ideal annual temperature range for most members of the genus Grammatophyllum are 75 to 85 °F (24 to 30 °C) during the day and 55 to 60 °F (13 to 16 °C) at night. Plants will tolerate temperatures to 45 °F (10 °C) and up to 100 °F (38 °C) for short periods. At higher temperatures, air circulation and humidity must be increased or damage can occur.
Water
Grammatophyllums enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a 2 or 3 week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness, before rewatering. In the warmer periods, several waterings a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth.
Fertilizer
Grammatophyllum plants should be fed consistently, when in full growth. During the spring through early fall, fertilizing every 7 days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Grammatophyllum plants happy. In the late fall through winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice.
The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-10-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not.
Whichever formula is selected, we recommend half strength at each application. As with most Orchids, Grammatophyllum roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up. Grammatophyllums are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. The organic fertilizers eliminate concern of salt build up in the medium.
Potting
Grammatophyllum do not resent being disturbed, so repotting should be undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is after all flowering has ceased and new growth is just beginning. To minimize root damage, a warm water soak for 10 minutes, will make most roots very pliable and easier to remove from the container.
While most Grammatophyllums will do well in clay or plastic pots. Some large-growing types such as Grammatophyllum speciosum are best grown in a wire or wooden basket. The strong rapid growing root system often breaks ordinary pots. The baskets allow free air flow over the roots, and eliminate over watering problems.
The potting medium must be well-drained, i.e. coarse fir bark, lava rock, pieces of broken pottery, chunks of tree fern, hardwood charcoal, etc. so that the roots can be wet, but then dry quickly.
When dividing Grammatophyllum plants, always divide into parts with at least four psuedobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth begins. At that time, usually a week or so, repot the divisions in their new pots. Now the plants can be watered and fertilized as usual, without worrying about rotting them, because they retained no roots in the division. Newly repotted plants should be placed in slightly lower light for several weeks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Vitis vinifera, also known as Grapevine is a wonderfully giving plant. Not only will it grow on a trellis or pergola to give summer shade, it bears edible fruit and its early spring leaf growth is used for culinary purposes. There is also the added beauty of the change in leaf color as they begin to drop, allowing winter sun to penetrate. Greek and Italian cooks and gardeners are used to training Grapevines, specifically for their leaves to make stuffed vine leaves or dolmades.
Getting Started
In this day and age Grapevines are propagated from cuttings rather than seeds, as they get off to a much faster start that way. Grapevines can be purchased from nurseries, either potted in spring and summer or bare-rooted in winter. You can always grow your own vine from a cutting, as they are easy to strike and grow on their own roots, rather than being grafted. In winter, at pruning time, make a cutting of a leafless stem, around 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) long, with 2 or 3 nodes. Insert each cutting into a pot filled with coarse sand or propagating mix, and these will callous up and form roots and new growth by early spring, so you can plant them out where you want them to grow.
Growing Conditions
Choose a sunny, well-drained position, and at planting time, dig in plenty of organic matter, including a good shovelful of compost. Dig the hole large enough for the roots to spread, and backfill with soil and compost, pressing around the area to get rid of air holes. Water in well and make sure, with a grafted vine, that the graft union is not below the soil – it should be at least 4 inches (10 cm) above the surface.
Grapevines need a sunny spot to grow and tolerate most soils, but are particularly suited to those with a high pH. They do not mind chalky, limey soils as long as they are well drained.
In early spring, fertilize with a complete fertilizer to establish the new vine, and repeat each year in spring and summer. Grapevines are well adapted to growing in dry conditions and a drip-irrigation system will deliver water efficiently and adequately. It is a better method than watering overhead, as this can lead to fungal problems, such as mildew on the leaves and rotting fruit.
General Care
Prune the vine hard in winter, right back to the main framework of branches, as the grapevines bear fruit on the current year’s wood. In the first year of growth you could be picking a handful or two of fruit, but by the third or fourth year it will be in full swing.
The method of pruning depends on the grape cultivar. For most Grapevine types, pruning is done by cutting everything hard back to spurs or permanent buds on the main plant framework, so new growth occurs and produces fruit.
The main problem with Grapevines is fungus attack, in particular powdery mildew, which can harm the leaves and fruit. The answer is to spray with a Bordeaux spray while the vine is dormant and just before the buds burst. Spray again later in the season if the weather becomes humid, as humidity affects the fruit production.So remember, vine leaves should always be carefully rinsed before being used in cooking. The Grapevine is a vigorous grower and will need to be trained up and over a pergola or on a wire strand, creating a wonderful outdoor setting.
Protecting
It is important to protect the fruit on the vine as it ripens. There is a bit of controversy about using nets, as native bats and birds can become entangled in them. It is also awkward to cover these vigorous growers with nets. Horticultural waxed-paper fruit bags are available with a built-in twist-tie. The waxed bags shed water away from the fruit, making them great for humid climates. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bag for drainage which does not allow fruit fly to enter or in any way affect the bag’s usefulness.
Getting Started
In this day and age Grapevines are propagated from cuttings rather than seeds, as they get off to a much faster start that way. Grapevines can be purchased from nurseries, either potted in spring and summer or bare-rooted in winter. You can always grow your own vine from a cutting, as they are easy to strike and grow on their own roots, rather than being grafted. In winter, at pruning time, make a cutting of a leafless stem, around 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) long, with 2 or 3 nodes. Insert each cutting into a pot filled with coarse sand or propagating mix, and these will callous up and form roots and new growth by early spring, so you can plant them out where you want them to grow.
Growing Conditions
Choose a sunny, well-drained position, and at planting time, dig in plenty of organic matter, including a good shovelful of compost. Dig the hole large enough for the roots to spread, and backfill with soil and compost, pressing around the area to get rid of air holes. Water in well and make sure, with a grafted vine, that the graft union is not below the soil – it should be at least 4 inches (10 cm) above the surface.
Grapevines need a sunny spot to grow and tolerate most soils, but are particularly suited to those with a high pH. They do not mind chalky, limey soils as long as they are well drained.
In early spring, fertilize with a complete fertilizer to establish the new vine, and repeat each year in spring and summer. Grapevines are well adapted to growing in dry conditions and a drip-irrigation system will deliver water efficiently and adequately. It is a better method than watering overhead, as this can lead to fungal problems, such as mildew on the leaves and rotting fruit.
General Care
Prune the vine hard in winter, right back to the main framework of branches, as the grapevines bear fruit on the current year’s wood. In the first year of growth you could be picking a handful or two of fruit, but by the third or fourth year it will be in full swing.
The method of pruning depends on the grape cultivar. For most Grapevine types, pruning is done by cutting everything hard back to spurs or permanent buds on the main plant framework, so new growth occurs and produces fruit.
The main problem with Grapevines is fungus attack, in particular powdery mildew, which can harm the leaves and fruit. The answer is to spray with a Bordeaux spray while the vine is dormant and just before the buds burst. Spray again later in the season if the weather becomes humid, as humidity affects the fruit production.So remember, vine leaves should always be carefully rinsed before being used in cooking. The Grapevine is a vigorous grower and will need to be trained up and over a pergola or on a wire strand, creating a wonderful outdoor setting.
Protecting
It is important to protect the fruit on the vine as it ripens. There is a bit of controversy about using nets, as native bats and birds can become entangled in them. It is also awkward to cover these vigorous growers with nets. Horticultural waxed-paper fruit bags are available with a built-in twist-tie. The waxed bags shed water away from the fruit, making them great for humid climates. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bag for drainage which does not allow fruit fly to enter or in any way affect the bag’s usefulness.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Anytime anything unusual occurs on a plant, this gives gardeners a reason to be concerned about their plant. When a plant gets brown edges on leaves or brown leaf tips, a gardener’s first thought may be that this is a disease or pest that is attacking the plant. This is not always the case.
What Causes Brown Edges on Leaves of Plants?
When there are whole brown leaves on a plant, this can indicate several dozen problems; but when just the sides or tips of the leaf turn brown, there is only one problem — the plant is stressed. Most commonly brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves are caused by the plant not getting enough water. There are several reasons why this may happen.
There may be too little natural water falling. If this is what is causing the sides of the leaf to turn brown, you should supplement the rainfall with manual watering. The roots are constricted and unable to reach out for water. This cause of brown leaf tips happens most frequently with container grown plants, but can happen with plants in the ground in particularly heavy clay soils that may act like a container. Either increase watering or replant the plant so that the roots have more room to grow. The soil does not hold onto the water.
If you live in an area that has sandy soil, the water may simply be draining away too fast and this may be causing brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with organic material which will hold onto the water better. In the meantime, increase the frequency of watering. The roots may be damaged. If the area where the plant is has been flooded by water or if the soil around the plant is too compacted, this can cause root damage. When the roots become damaged, there is not enough of a root system for the plant to properly take up enough water. In this case, correct the problem that is causing the root damage and then prune back the plant some to reduce its water needs while the root system recovers.
Another reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil. This can either be natural in the soil, such as from living close to the ocean, or this can happen through over fertilizing. If you live near a source of salt water, there will be very little you can do to correct the problem. If you suspect that you have over fertilized, reduce the amount of fertilizer and increase the amount of watering for a few weeks to help wash the salt away. While brown leaf tips and brown edges on leaves can be alarming, it is, for the most part, an easily fixed problem.
What Causes Brown Edges on Leaves of Plants?
When there are whole brown leaves on a plant, this can indicate several dozen problems; but when just the sides or tips of the leaf turn brown, there is only one problem — the plant is stressed. Most commonly brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves are caused by the plant not getting enough water. There are several reasons why this may happen.
There may be too little natural water falling. If this is what is causing the sides of the leaf to turn brown, you should supplement the rainfall with manual watering. The roots are constricted and unable to reach out for water. This cause of brown leaf tips happens most frequently with container grown plants, but can happen with plants in the ground in particularly heavy clay soils that may act like a container. Either increase watering or replant the plant so that the roots have more room to grow. The soil does not hold onto the water.
If you live in an area that has sandy soil, the water may simply be draining away too fast and this may be causing brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with organic material which will hold onto the water better. In the meantime, increase the frequency of watering. The roots may be damaged. If the area where the plant is has been flooded by water or if the soil around the plant is too compacted, this can cause root damage. When the roots become damaged, there is not enough of a root system for the plant to properly take up enough water. In this case, correct the problem that is causing the root damage and then prune back the plant some to reduce its water needs while the root system recovers.
Another reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil. This can either be natural in the soil, such as from living close to the ocean, or this can happen through over fertilizing. If you live near a source of salt water, there will be very little you can do to correct the problem. If you suspect that you have over fertilized, reduce the amount of fertilizer and increase the amount of watering for a few weeks to help wash the salt away. While brown leaf tips and brown edges on leaves can be alarming, it is, for the most part, an easily fixed problem.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Echinacea angustifolia DC.
Common Names
Black Sampson, Black Sampson Echinacea, Echinacea, Kansas Snakeroot, Narrow-Leaf Echinacea, Narrow-Leaved Purple Coneflower, Narrow-Leaf Purple Coneflower, Narrow-Leaf-Coneflower
Synonyms
Brauneria angustifolia, Echinacea angustifolia var. angustifolia, Echinacea pallida var. angustifolia
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Tribe: Heliantheae
Genus: Echinacea
Description
Echinacea angustifolia has a hollow stem that reaches a height up to 28 inches (70 cm) with spindle-shaped taproots that are often branched. The leaves are narrow, oblong and covered with tiny hairs. Ray flowers are up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) long, spreading or drooping, light pink to pale purple. The disk flowers are 5-lobed, brownish-purple, and situated among stiff bracts.
Flower
Color: Pink to purple
Bloom Time: Late spring to mid summer
How to Grow and Care
Coneflowers are often listed as drought tolerant, but they will do much better with regular water. I leave the plants standing through winter, to feed the birds. Shearing them back in the spring will result in bushier plants that bloom longer into the season. Deadheading is the primary maintenance required with Coneflowers. They are prolific bloomers and keeping them deadheaded will keep them in bloom all summer. Luckily each flower remains in bloom for several weeks. Flowers start blooming from the top of the stem. As the initial flower fades, more side shoots and buds will form along the stem. Keep the plants deadheaded and you’ll keep getting more flowers.
If you don’t want to start your own seeds, there are plenty of varieties available for purchase as plants, especially through mail order. Plants can also be divided or grown from stem cuttings. Coneflower can be planted in either spring or fall. Be sure to allow for good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
Origin
Native to Canada and United States.
Echinacea angustifolia DC.
Common Names
Black Sampson, Black Sampson Echinacea, Echinacea, Kansas Snakeroot, Narrow-Leaf Echinacea, Narrow-Leaved Purple Coneflower, Narrow-Leaf Purple Coneflower, Narrow-Leaf-Coneflower
Synonyms
Brauneria angustifolia, Echinacea angustifolia var. angustifolia, Echinacea pallida var. angustifolia
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Tribe: Heliantheae
Genus: Echinacea
Description
Echinacea angustifolia has a hollow stem that reaches a height up to 28 inches (70 cm) with spindle-shaped taproots that are often branched. The leaves are narrow, oblong and covered with tiny hairs. Ray flowers are up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) long, spreading or drooping, light pink to pale purple. The disk flowers are 5-lobed, brownish-purple, and situated among stiff bracts.
Flower
Color: Pink to purple
Bloom Time: Late spring to mid summer
How to Grow and Care
Coneflowers are often listed as drought tolerant, but they will do much better with regular water. I leave the plants standing through winter, to feed the birds. Shearing them back in the spring will result in bushier plants that bloom longer into the season. Deadheading is the primary maintenance required with Coneflowers. They are prolific bloomers and keeping them deadheaded will keep them in bloom all summer. Luckily each flower remains in bloom for several weeks. Flowers start blooming from the top of the stem. As the initial flower fades, more side shoots and buds will form along the stem. Keep the plants deadheaded and you’ll keep getting more flowers.
If you don’t want to start your own seeds, there are plenty of varieties available for purchase as plants, especially through mail order. Plants can also be divided or grown from stem cuttings. Coneflower can be planted in either spring or fall. Be sure to allow for good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
Origin
Native to Canada and United States.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Lonicera caprifolium L.
Common Names
Perfoliate Honeysuckle, Italian Woodbine, Italian Honeysuckle, Goat Honeysuckle, Goat-leaf Honeysuckle, Perfoliate Woodbine, Early Cream Honeysuckle, Lily Among Thorns, White Italian Honeysuckle
Synonyms
Caprifolium atropurpureum, Caprifolium germanicum, Caprifolium hortense, Caprifolium italicum, Caprifolium magnevilleae, Caprifolium pallidum, Caprifolium perfoliatum, Caprifolium rotundifolium, Caprifolium sylvaticum, Caprifolium vulgare, Lonicera italica, Lonicera pallida, Lonicera suavis, Lonicera verna
Scientific Classification
Family: Caprifoliaceae
Genus: Lonicera
Flower
Color: Creamy-white
Bloom Time: Midsummer
Description
Lonicera caprifolium is a strong-growing, twining deciduous shrub growing up to 26.2 feet (8 m), making a large climber with oval, blue-green leaves, the upper perfoliate. Flowers are up to 2 inches (5 cm) long, scented, in terminal clusters, reddish on first opening but changing to creamy-white.
How to Grow and Care
Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them.
When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches.
This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months.
Origin
Native to parts of Europe, and naturalized in South East Britain and northeastern North America.
Lonicera caprifolium L.
Common Names
Perfoliate Honeysuckle, Italian Woodbine, Italian Honeysuckle, Goat Honeysuckle, Goat-leaf Honeysuckle, Perfoliate Woodbine, Early Cream Honeysuckle, Lily Among Thorns, White Italian Honeysuckle
Synonyms
Caprifolium atropurpureum, Caprifolium germanicum, Caprifolium hortense, Caprifolium italicum, Caprifolium magnevilleae, Caprifolium pallidum, Caprifolium perfoliatum, Caprifolium rotundifolium, Caprifolium sylvaticum, Caprifolium vulgare, Lonicera italica, Lonicera pallida, Lonicera suavis, Lonicera verna
Scientific Classification
Family: Caprifoliaceae
Genus: Lonicera
Flower
Color: Creamy-white
Bloom Time: Midsummer
Description
Lonicera caprifolium is a strong-growing, twining deciduous shrub growing up to 26.2 feet (8 m), making a large climber with oval, blue-green leaves, the upper perfoliate. Flowers are up to 2 inches (5 cm) long, scented, in terminal clusters, reddish on first opening but changing to creamy-white.
How to Grow and Care
Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them.
When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches.
This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months.
Origin
Native to parts of Europe, and naturalized in South East Britain and northeastern North America.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Scilla bifolia L.
Common Names
Alpine Squill, Two-leaf Squill
Synonyms
Adenoscilla bifolia, Adenoscilla nivalis, Adenoscilla unifolia, Anthericum bifolium, Genlisa bifolia, Hyacinthus bifolius, Ornithogalum bifolium, Rinopodium bifolia, Scilla buekkensis, Scilla bulgarica, Scilla carnea, Scilla chladnii, Scilla concinna, Scilla decidua, Scilla dedea, Scilla drunensis, Scilla dubia, Scilla hohenackeri, Scilla laxa, Scilla longistylosa, Scilla lusitanica, Scilla minor, Scilla nivalis, Scilla pleiophylla, Scilla pneumonanthe, Scilla praecox, Scilla pruinosa, Scilla resslii, Scilla rosea, Scilla secunda, Scilla spetana, Scilla subnivalis, Scilla trifolia, Scilla uluensis, Scilla vernalis, Scilla xanthandra, Stellaris bifolia
Scientific Classification
Family: Asparagaceae
Subfamily: Scilloideae
Tribe: Hyacintheae
Subtribe: Hyacinthinae
Genus: Scilla
Flower
Color: Deep violet-blue
Bloom Time: Early to late spring
Description
Scilla bifolia is a herbaceous perennial growing from an underground bulb up to 0.8 inch (2 cm) across. There are two or rarely three lance-shaped, curved, fleshy and shiny leaves. The bases of the leaves clasp up to about the half of the stem. The flowering stems are erect and unbranched, up to 8 inches (20 cm) tall. The raceme bears 6 to 10 flowers, each up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) across. The flowers are upward-facing, unlike the nodding flowers of Scilla siberica. They bloom from early to late spring. The 6 tepals are deep violet-blue, more rarely white, pink, or purple. The fruit is a capsule up to 0.3 inch (8 mm) across.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 4a to 8b: from −30 °F (−34.4 °C) to 20 °F (−6.7 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Scilla is adapted to full sun or dappled shade and likes well-drained soil. It naturally grows in rocky wooded areas, so it is just at home in dryish semi-wild parts of the landscape as it is in a rich, moist garden bed. Bulbs should be planted in fall. Plant the bulbs in loose soil three to four inches deep and 8 inches (20 cm) apart with the tapered end pointed up. Scilla should receive regular water during the spring flush of growth. However, since the weather tends to be cool and moist during this time, it is generally not necessary to irrigate. In fact, it is important to not over water, as the bulbs can rot.
The foliage should be left after the flowers fade, though it, too, fades in the heat of summer. Once Scilla leaves are all yellow they may be cut to the ground, and the plant allowed to remain dormant until the following spring. It is important that the bulbs not be watered during the dormant period.
Origin
Native to Europe and western Russia south through Turkey to Syria.
Scilla bifolia L.
Common Names
Alpine Squill, Two-leaf Squill
Synonyms
Adenoscilla bifolia, Adenoscilla nivalis, Adenoscilla unifolia, Anthericum bifolium, Genlisa bifolia, Hyacinthus bifolius, Ornithogalum bifolium, Rinopodium bifolia, Scilla buekkensis, Scilla bulgarica, Scilla carnea, Scilla chladnii, Scilla concinna, Scilla decidua, Scilla dedea, Scilla drunensis, Scilla dubia, Scilla hohenackeri, Scilla laxa, Scilla longistylosa, Scilla lusitanica, Scilla minor, Scilla nivalis, Scilla pleiophylla, Scilla pneumonanthe, Scilla praecox, Scilla pruinosa, Scilla resslii, Scilla rosea, Scilla secunda, Scilla spetana, Scilla subnivalis, Scilla trifolia, Scilla uluensis, Scilla vernalis, Scilla xanthandra, Stellaris bifolia
Scientific Classification
Family: Asparagaceae
Subfamily: Scilloideae
Tribe: Hyacintheae
Subtribe: Hyacinthinae
Genus: Scilla
Flower
Color: Deep violet-blue
Bloom Time: Early to late spring
Description
Scilla bifolia is a herbaceous perennial growing from an underground bulb up to 0.8 inch (2 cm) across. There are two or rarely three lance-shaped, curved, fleshy and shiny leaves. The bases of the leaves clasp up to about the half of the stem. The flowering stems are erect and unbranched, up to 8 inches (20 cm) tall. The raceme bears 6 to 10 flowers, each up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) across. The flowers are upward-facing, unlike the nodding flowers of Scilla siberica. They bloom from early to late spring. The 6 tepals are deep violet-blue, more rarely white, pink, or purple. The fruit is a capsule up to 0.3 inch (8 mm) across.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 4a to 8b: from −30 °F (−34.4 °C) to 20 °F (−6.7 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Scilla is adapted to full sun or dappled shade and likes well-drained soil. It naturally grows in rocky wooded areas, so it is just at home in dryish semi-wild parts of the landscape as it is in a rich, moist garden bed. Bulbs should be planted in fall. Plant the bulbs in loose soil three to four inches deep and 8 inches (20 cm) apart with the tapered end pointed up. Scilla should receive regular water during the spring flush of growth. However, since the weather tends to be cool and moist during this time, it is generally not necessary to irrigate. In fact, it is important to not over water, as the bulbs can rot.
The foliage should be left after the flowers fade, though it, too, fades in the heat of summer. Once Scilla leaves are all yellow they may be cut to the ground, and the plant allowed to remain dormant until the following spring. It is important that the bulbs not be watered during the dormant period.
Origin
Native to Europe and western Russia south through Turkey to Syria.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Achillea millefolium L.
Common Names
Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Milfoil, Gordaldo, Nosebleed Plant, Old Man’s Pepper, Devil’s Nettle, Sanguinary, Soldier’s Woundwort, Thousand-Leaf, Thousand-Seal
Synonyms
Achillea borealis, Achillea lanulosa, Achillea magna
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Anthemideae
Subtribe: Matricariinae
Genus: Achillea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: June to September
Description
Achillea millefolum is a flowering plant, up to 2.6 feet (80 cm) tall, with branched, bright green stalks at the peak. Leaves are alternately arranged and hairy. The white flower heads are about 0.12 inch (3 mm) wide, 0.2 inch (5 mm) long and are combined in thyroid tassel.
How to Grow and Care
It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant.
You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Origin
Native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere in Asia, Europe, and North America.
Achillea millefolium L.
Common Names
Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Milfoil, Gordaldo, Nosebleed Plant, Old Man’s Pepper, Devil’s Nettle, Sanguinary, Soldier’s Woundwort, Thousand-Leaf, Thousand-Seal
Synonyms
Achillea borealis, Achillea lanulosa, Achillea magna
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Anthemideae
Subtribe: Matricariinae
Genus: Achillea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: June to September
Description
Achillea millefolum is a flowering plant, up to 2.6 feet (80 cm) tall, with branched, bright green stalks at the peak. Leaves are alternately arranged and hairy. The white flower heads are about 0.12 inch (3 mm) wide, 0.2 inch (5 mm) long and are combined in thyroid tassel.
How to Grow and Care
It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant.
You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Origin
Native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere in Asia, Europe, and North America.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Achillea filipendulina Lam.
Common Names
Fern-Leaf Yarrow, Milfoil, Nosebleed
Synonyms
Achillea eupatorium, Achillea filicifolia, Tanacetum angulatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Anthemideae
Subtribe: Matricariinae
Genus: Achillea
Flower
Color: White and yellow
Bloom Time: April to June
Description
Achillea filipendulina is a flowering herbaceous perennial plant, up to 4 feet (1.2 m) high. This species forms a tall, bushy mound of fragrant ferny foliage, with huge clusters of golden-yellow flowers appearing on tall stems. The leaves are linear, pinnate, lobed and serrated, hairy and rough. The flowering period is mid to late summer.
Achillea filipendulina - Fern Leaf Yarrow
How to Grow and Care
It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant.
You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Origin
Native to the Caucasus Mountains, in southeastern Europe.
Achillea filipendulina Lam.
Common Names
Fern-Leaf Yarrow, Milfoil, Nosebleed
Synonyms
Achillea eupatorium, Achillea filicifolia, Tanacetum angulatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Anthemideae
Subtribe: Matricariinae
Genus: Achillea
Flower
Color: White and yellow
Bloom Time: April to June
Description
Achillea filipendulina is a flowering herbaceous perennial plant, up to 4 feet (1.2 m) high. This species forms a tall, bushy mound of fragrant ferny foliage, with huge clusters of golden-yellow flowers appearing on tall stems. The leaves are linear, pinnate, lobed and serrated, hairy and rough. The flowering period is mid to late summer.
Achillea filipendulina - Fern Leaf Yarrow
How to Grow and Care
It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant.
You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Origin
Native to the Caucasus Mountains, in southeastern Europe.
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成长记
Lobster Plant
2017年09月24日
Noted some leaf shed + pruned a rather mangy looking one.
Fertilised and watered yesterday- will take note of leaves in the evening.
Fertilised and watered yesterday- will take note of leaves in the evening.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Odd little bumps on leaves and funny protuberances on your plant’s foliage may be a sign of pest, bacterial or fungal problems. These galls may look like they are hurting the plant’s health, but leaf galls on plants are actually harmless. There are nearly as many types of galls as there are causes. Leaf gall identification is tricky, as many galls look similar. Galls are often named after their tree species and may be confined to one family or genus of plant. 
Causes for Leaf Galls on Plants
Leaf galls on plants are usually the result of mites and other sucking insects that make their homes under the plant tissue. Their feeding activities cause some galls, while chemicals secreted during egg growth in saliva or even excretions, may cause the changes to plant tissue. These changes may not be limited to bumps on leaves. Flowers, fruits, and even roots can develop these changes in tissue. Leaf galls are also sometimes found on stems and trunks. Other causes for galls are fungal and bacterial diseases.
What Does Leaf Gall Look Like?
When it come to leaf gall identification, even the most experienced gardener may wonder, what does leaf gall look like? The appearance is generally recognized as a bump, peak or scabby area of plant flesh. They are firm to the touch and they may be thickly coating a plant, found singly or in pairs. Leaf galls on plants might be green and match the plant material. They might also be bright pink or red and resemble large pimples.
Many galls are named for their appearance. There are blister, bud, nipple, pouch and roly-poly galls to name a few. Other galls are named for the plant affected, such as oak tree galls. Still other galls get their name from the area affected. These are bud, flower, leaf, twig and root galls. Galls aren’t necessarily bad for your plants but they can mar the appearance of prize and ornamental specimens. In these cases, it is important to know how to treat leaf gall.
How to Treat Leaf Gall
It is easier to prevent leaf galls than to treat them once they are there. In fact, treatment is not recommended, as the galls are doing no harm and any chemical formulation used could actually do more harm than good. Before you ever see bumps on leaves or other plant parts, spray with a miticide to prevent galls on ornamental plants. Horticultural oils and some insecticides will be effective but not after the mites are under the surface of the plant. Don’t use broad spectrum insecticides, which will harm potential predators of the gall mites.
Give the plant good and appropriate care to encourage good health. Reduce the chance of injury to plant stems and trunks which could encourage the introduction of insects, fungal or bacterial diseases. The most fool proof way to avoid galls is to choose plants that are resistant to the most prevalent varieties in your zone.
Causes for Leaf Galls on Plants
Leaf galls on plants are usually the result of mites and other sucking insects that make their homes under the plant tissue. Their feeding activities cause some galls, while chemicals secreted during egg growth in saliva or even excretions, may cause the changes to plant tissue. These changes may not be limited to bumps on leaves. Flowers, fruits, and even roots can develop these changes in tissue. Leaf galls are also sometimes found on stems and trunks. Other causes for galls are fungal and bacterial diseases.
What Does Leaf Gall Look Like?
When it come to leaf gall identification, even the most experienced gardener may wonder, what does leaf gall look like? The appearance is generally recognized as a bump, peak or scabby area of plant flesh. They are firm to the touch and they may be thickly coating a plant, found singly or in pairs. Leaf galls on plants might be green and match the plant material. They might also be bright pink or red and resemble large pimples.
Many galls are named for their appearance. There are blister, bud, nipple, pouch and roly-poly galls to name a few. Other galls are named for the plant affected, such as oak tree galls. Still other galls get their name from the area affected. These are bud, flower, leaf, twig and root galls. Galls aren’t necessarily bad for your plants but they can mar the appearance of prize and ornamental specimens. In these cases, it is important to know how to treat leaf gall.
How to Treat Leaf Gall
It is easier to prevent leaf galls than to treat them once they are there. In fact, treatment is not recommended, as the galls are doing no harm and any chemical formulation used could actually do more harm than good. Before you ever see bumps on leaves or other plant parts, spray with a miticide to prevent galls on ornamental plants. Horticultural oils and some insecticides will be effective but not after the mites are under the surface of the plant. Don’t use broad spectrum insecticides, which will harm potential predators of the gall mites.
Give the plant good and appropriate care to encourage good health. Reduce the chance of injury to plant stems and trunks which could encourage the introduction of insects, fungal or bacterial diseases. The most fool proof way to avoid galls is to choose plants that are resistant to the most prevalent varieties in your zone.
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