成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月30日
I new added a "Variegated Rubber Plant" in my "garden"
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meriunkat：@cclecombe awesome and then you get the chance to watch it grow as well 😆
cclecombe：@meriunkat I know right! I was planning on getting a larger one from Amazon, but the flower stall on my local market were selling baby ones for £2.50 so I couldn't resist! It turns out it's better to get them small as they learn to acclimate to being a house plant much better than if you were to bring home a full grown one, so it's a win-win!
meriunkat：How cute!😄💚
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are two excellent reasons to grow Abutilon species: the flowers or the blooms. In general, the plants feature deeply lobed leaves reminiscent of maple leaves, although these loose-growing shrubs are in no way related to maple trees. Variegated species are grown for their striking, exotic looking leaves, while flowering species have solid green leaves and lovely, pendant flowers in a variety of colors. Although these aren’t the most common houseplants around, extensive work has been done with a handful of species to produce a variety of beautiful cultivars that are prized for their leaf shape and flower color. In terms of culture, these are not particularly difficult plants to grow and prefer a cooler winter room with less water, then warmth and adequate moisture in the summer. For best results, prune the plants to encourage bushiness.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Reversion of variegated leaves occurs in many types of plants. This is when the white shading or lighter speckles and borders turn into green. This is frustrating to many gardeners, as the variegated forms of plants provide increased interest, brighten dim areas and are bred specifically to enhance this trait. Variegation loss in plants may be due to lighting, seasonality or other factors. It is not possible to reverse loss of variegation, but you can usually keep it from taking over an entire plant.
Reversion of Variegated Leaves
Variegation may be the result of a natural anomaly or carefully engineered breeding. Whichever, the case, variegated leaves may turn completely green for a number of reasons. The coloring results from unstable changes in the leaf’s cells. One of the most common variegated plant problems is limited chlorophyll in the leaves. Less chlorophyll means less solar energy, as it is a primary component in photosynthesis. Variegated plants are less vigorous than green specimens are. The tendency for reversion of variegated leaves is a protective adaptation that allows the plant to return to a more successful form.
Why Does Variegation Disappear?
Loss of variegation is a frustrating condition for the gardener. Why does variegation disappear? The plant may do it as a survival tactic. It may also occur due to another leaf cell mutation. Variegated plants growing in shady or semi-shady locations are really at a disadvantage. Not only do they have low levels of chlorophyll, but they are not even exposed to adequate light. This scenario lends itself to reversion of variegated leaves.
Variegation loss in plants could also be spurred by changes in heat or cold. If the weather is unfavorable to a particular plant, it may revert just to get a competitive advantage. Once the leaves revert to all green, the plant can increase its harvest of solar energy, which in turn gives it more fuel to produce bigger and stronger growth. Waterlogged plants may also turn back and new shoots often come out green.
Variegated Plant Problems
Variegated plants tend to be less hearty and vigorous as compared to their completely green cousins. They have no more or less general problems, but some plants can produce albino growth. This type of growth cannot gather solar energy and will eventually die back. If all the new growth becomes albino, the plant will not survive. This is the very opposite of the reversion process.
Variegated plants also have smaller leaves, less tolerance to shady areas and yet a tendency to burn in hot sun, and slower growth. Most plants will only revert on stem, branch or other area. You can cut these off to try to prevent the entire plant from reverting. This usually works to slow the production of green leaf cells. If that doesn’t work, embrace your healthy, beautiful green chimera of a plant.
Reversion of Variegated Leaves
Variegation may be the result of a natural anomaly or carefully engineered breeding. Whichever, the case, variegated leaves may turn completely green for a number of reasons. The coloring results from unstable changes in the leaf’s cells. One of the most common variegated plant problems is limited chlorophyll in the leaves. Less chlorophyll means less solar energy, as it is a primary component in photosynthesis. Variegated plants are less vigorous than green specimens are. The tendency for reversion of variegated leaves is a protective adaptation that allows the plant to return to a more successful form.
Why Does Variegation Disappear?
Loss of variegation is a frustrating condition for the gardener. Why does variegation disappear? The plant may do it as a survival tactic. It may also occur due to another leaf cell mutation. Variegated plants growing in shady or semi-shady locations are really at a disadvantage. Not only do they have low levels of chlorophyll, but they are not even exposed to adequate light. This scenario lends itself to reversion of variegated leaves.
Variegation loss in plants could also be spurred by changes in heat or cold. If the weather is unfavorable to a particular plant, it may revert just to get a competitive advantage. Once the leaves revert to all green, the plant can increase its harvest of solar energy, which in turn gives it more fuel to produce bigger and stronger growth. Waterlogged plants may also turn back and new shoots often come out green.
Variegated Plant Problems
Variegated plants tend to be less hearty and vigorous as compared to their completely green cousins. They have no more or less general problems, but some plants can produce albino growth. This type of growth cannot gather solar energy and will eventually die back. If all the new growth becomes albino, the plant will not survive. This is the very opposite of the reversion process.
Variegated plants also have smaller leaves, less tolerance to shady areas and yet a tendency to burn in hot sun, and slower growth. Most plants will only revert on stem, branch or other area. You can cut these off to try to prevent the entire plant from reverting. This usually works to slow the production of green leaf cells. If that doesn’t work, embrace your healthy, beautiful green chimera of a plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Each succulent stands out in its own way — the variegated foliage of Aeonium, the size and grandeur of Agave, the cold-hardiness and resilience of Sempervivum. Out-of-this-world color and year-round beauty belong to Echeveria.
Hailing from semi desert regions of Mexico and of Central and South America, Echeveria thrives in the mild climates of California and the American Southwest. Its colorful, glaucous foliage and year-after-year flowering makes it one of the most popular succulent types. Cold sensitivity may be a concern for many gardeners, but conveniently enough, Echeveria makes a great container plant. Once fall rolls in, just pack up and bring it indoors. Welcome your containers back into the garden in spring.
Where it will grow: Hardy to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius), depending on species (USDA zones 9a to 11b).
Water requirement: Looks best with moderate water.
Light requirement: Full sun, but shelter it from harsh summer sun.
Mature size: Varies with species.
Benefits and tolerances: Drought tolerant; deer resistant.
Seasonal interest: Evergreen; flowers in summer.
When to plant: Plant cuttings or offsets spring through fall; allow the stem end to become callous.
Distinguishing Traits
Echeveria is rosette forming, with fleshy green leaves in colors ranging from green to gray-green to purple, with colored tips and other quirky accents augmenting its playful demeanor. The color remains strong year-round, and even in the dark grays of winter, your garden will receive a nice pink foliage pick-me-up.
Unlike many succulents, Echeverias are not monocarpic and can flower several times throughout a lifetime. In summer look for a stem of clustered flowers, often in bright pinks and yellows.
How to Use It
Plant Echeveria en masse, as a container specimen or along a rocky bank. Depending on your climate zone and style preference, the options are pretty open.
Echeverias are commonly planted in containers. Their portability makes summer and winter maintenance that much easier.
If summer climates are more extreme, shelter plants from direct sunlight. Likewise, bring your Echeveria indoors if your climate experiences freezing winters. Be sure to provide ample direct light.
Echeverias are also used in living walls for sunny locations.
Planting Notes
Echeverias look healthiest and develop the best year-round color when planted in full, coastal sun.
Some Echeverias develop tall stalks, and eventually you may want to cut and reroot the rosette, much like is done with Aeonium. Leave the stalk and new Echeverias will sprout. Others produce offsets, which can also be used to propagate.
Try to avoid extreme light and temperature swings while providing good air circulation and good light. Give it some water but not too much, and otherwise let it do its thing.
Hailing from semi desert regions of Mexico and of Central and South America, Echeveria thrives in the mild climates of California and the American Southwest. Its colorful, glaucous foliage and year-after-year flowering makes it one of the most popular succulent types. Cold sensitivity may be a concern for many gardeners, but conveniently enough, Echeveria makes a great container plant. Once fall rolls in, just pack up and bring it indoors. Welcome your containers back into the garden in spring.
Where it will grow: Hardy to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius), depending on species (USDA zones 9a to 11b).
Water requirement: Looks best with moderate water.
Light requirement: Full sun, but shelter it from harsh summer sun.
Mature size: Varies with species.
Benefits and tolerances: Drought tolerant; deer resistant.
Seasonal interest: Evergreen; flowers in summer.
When to plant: Plant cuttings or offsets spring through fall; allow the stem end to become callous.
Distinguishing Traits
Echeveria is rosette forming, with fleshy green leaves in colors ranging from green to gray-green to purple, with colored tips and other quirky accents augmenting its playful demeanor. The color remains strong year-round, and even in the dark grays of winter, your garden will receive a nice pink foliage pick-me-up.
Unlike many succulents, Echeverias are not monocarpic and can flower several times throughout a lifetime. In summer look for a stem of clustered flowers, often in bright pinks and yellows.
How to Use It
Plant Echeveria en masse, as a container specimen or along a rocky bank. Depending on your climate zone and style preference, the options are pretty open.
Echeverias are commonly planted in containers. Their portability makes summer and winter maintenance that much easier.
If summer climates are more extreme, shelter plants from direct sunlight. Likewise, bring your Echeveria indoors if your climate experiences freezing winters. Be sure to provide ample direct light.
Echeverias are also used in living walls for sunny locations.
Planting Notes
Echeverias look healthiest and develop the best year-round color when planted in full, coastal sun.
Some Echeverias develop tall stalks, and eventually you may want to cut and reroot the rosette, much like is done with Aeonium. Leave the stalk and new Echeverias will sprout. Others produce offsets, which can also be used to propagate.
Try to avoid extreme light and temperature swings while providing good air circulation and good light. Give it some water but not too much, and otherwise let it do its thing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The giant dogwood has such an appealing appearance that it’s also known as wedding cake tree. This is due to its tiered branch structure and elegantly variegated white and green leaves. Wedding cake tree care for young plants should be consistent until establishment but mature variegated giant dogwood trees are quite hardy and tolerant provided they are kept moist. Read on to learn more about this interesting flowering dogwood variety.
Giant Dogwood Information
The wedding cake dogwood has the grown up moniker Cornus controversa ‘Variegata.’ This lovely tree grows up to 50 feet tall but more commonly 25 to 30 in height. It is a native of Asia, which can be planted in United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 through 8. These trees are easy to grow and susceptible to only a few pests and diseases.
The wedding cake dogwood is a fast growing tree that does well in either partial shade or full sun. The limbs are horizontal, giving the appearance of layering, but as the plant matures they tend to droop a bit. In spring, it produces a brilliant display of creamy white flowers. An interesting nugget of giant dogwood information reveals these flowers to be leaves. The flowers are actually bracts, or modified leaves, that form around the very tiny and mundane real flower. The flowers develop into bluish-black berries that are favorites of birds, squirrels and other animals. In fall, the leaves turn a rich red and in spring the bright green tops of new leaves compliments the variegated silvery white tinged under leaves.
Growing a Giant Dogwood Tree
These trees are not found in many nurseries, but if you are lucky enough to find one, take care to situate it in a good location and provide basic wedding cake tree care as it establishes. The best place for variegated giant dogwood trees is in slightly acidic soil where there is dappled lighting. It will also perform well in full sun situations. You can plant it in either clay or loam but the soil should be slightly moist but not boggy. Take care to provide enough space above and on the sides for the adult height and spread of this majestic tree.
Care of the Wedding Cake Dogwood
After planting, it is a good idea to stake the young tree for straight strong growth. Provide water weekly for the first few months, and thereafter supplement moisture in very dry periods and in summer with a deep drench every couple of weeks. This tree is resistant to many pests but does occasionally has a problem with dogwood borers and scale. It is resistant to Verticillium but may become prey to canker diseases and root rot. Overall it is a very easy tree to care for and worth having for its many seasons of interest.
Giant Dogwood Information
The wedding cake dogwood has the grown up moniker Cornus controversa ‘Variegata.’ This lovely tree grows up to 50 feet tall but more commonly 25 to 30 in height. It is a native of Asia, which can be planted in United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 through 8. These trees are easy to grow and susceptible to only a few pests and diseases.
The wedding cake dogwood is a fast growing tree that does well in either partial shade or full sun. The limbs are horizontal, giving the appearance of layering, but as the plant matures they tend to droop a bit. In spring, it produces a brilliant display of creamy white flowers. An interesting nugget of giant dogwood information reveals these flowers to be leaves. The flowers are actually bracts, or modified leaves, that form around the very tiny and mundane real flower. The flowers develop into bluish-black berries that are favorites of birds, squirrels and other animals. In fall, the leaves turn a rich red and in spring the bright green tops of new leaves compliments the variegated silvery white tinged under leaves.
Growing a Giant Dogwood Tree
These trees are not found in many nurseries, but if you are lucky enough to find one, take care to situate it in a good location and provide basic wedding cake tree care as it establishes. The best place for variegated giant dogwood trees is in slightly acidic soil where there is dappled lighting. It will also perform well in full sun situations. You can plant it in either clay or loam but the soil should be slightly moist but not boggy. Take care to provide enough space above and on the sides for the adult height and spread of this majestic tree.
Care of the Wedding Cake Dogwood
After planting, it is a good idea to stake the young tree for straight strong growth. Provide water weekly for the first few months, and thereafter supplement moisture in very dry periods and in summer with a deep drench every couple of weeks. This tree is resistant to many pests but does occasionally has a problem with dogwood borers and scale. It is resistant to Verticillium but may become prey to canker diseases and root rot. Overall it is a very easy tree to care for and worth having for its many seasons of interest.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
There are over a thousand different varieties of mint. Ginger mint (Mentha x gracilis syn. Mentha x gentilis) is a cross between corn mint and spearmint, and smells very much like spearmint. Often called slender mint or scotch mint, variegated ginger mint plants have beautiful bright yellow stripes on the leaves. Let’s learn more about growing ginger mint plants.
Growing Ginger Mint
Ginger mint, like all other varieties of mint, is easy to grow and can quickly get out of hand when allowed to grow freely. If you have the space to let your mint plants run, it will kindly oblige. Otherwise, it’s best to contain it in a pot of some kind. To keep growth under control, you can even cut the bottom out of large coffee can and place this in the ground. This mint is not particularly picky about the soil it grows in as long as it is not too dry. Ginger mint will even grow well in heavy soils loaded with clay. Place plants in a sunny or partly sunny location for best results.
Care of Ginger Mint Herbs
If you plant your mint in a container, be sure to keep the soil amply moist. Containers dry out quickly in the hot summer heat. Check the soil a couple of times a week to be sure that it is moist to touch. Ginger mint in the garden will appreciate a generous layer of mulch. Use garden compost, bark chips, cocoa shells or other finely shredded compost. This will help to retain moisture and protect the ginger mint herbs over the winter. Feed your plants with bone meal twice a year for best performance. To keep your mints plants looking their best, clip the older woody stems back to allow younger shoots to fill in. In late fall, cut the plants back to the ground. This protects the plant and allow vital energy to be put into new growth for the following season. Harvest young shoots as they appear in the spring. Always collect mint leaves on a dry day before the hot sun comes out and use right away for best taste. Division is easily accomplished any time of the year; however, spring or fall is best. Any part of the root will grow a new plant.
Ginger Mint Uses
Ginger mint herbs are a delightful addition to fresh summer melon salads, as well as warm or cool teas and lemonade. Finely chopped pieces of mint can be added to softened butter for a delicious spread. Fresh grilled meats taste great with a lemon juice and mint leaf marinade.
Growing Ginger Mint
Ginger mint, like all other varieties of mint, is easy to grow and can quickly get out of hand when allowed to grow freely. If you have the space to let your mint plants run, it will kindly oblige. Otherwise, it’s best to contain it in a pot of some kind. To keep growth under control, you can even cut the bottom out of large coffee can and place this in the ground. This mint is not particularly picky about the soil it grows in as long as it is not too dry. Ginger mint will even grow well in heavy soils loaded with clay. Place plants in a sunny or partly sunny location for best results.
Care of Ginger Mint Herbs
If you plant your mint in a container, be sure to keep the soil amply moist. Containers dry out quickly in the hot summer heat. Check the soil a couple of times a week to be sure that it is moist to touch. Ginger mint in the garden will appreciate a generous layer of mulch. Use garden compost, bark chips, cocoa shells or other finely shredded compost. This will help to retain moisture and protect the ginger mint herbs over the winter. Feed your plants with bone meal twice a year for best performance. To keep your mints plants looking their best, clip the older woody stems back to allow younger shoots to fill in. In late fall, cut the plants back to the ground. This protects the plant and allow vital energy to be put into new growth for the following season. Harvest young shoots as they appear in the spring. Always collect mint leaves on a dry day before the hot sun comes out and use right away for best taste. Division is easily accomplished any time of the year; however, spring or fall is best. Any part of the root will grow a new plant.
Ginger Mint Uses
Ginger mint herbs are a delightful addition to fresh summer melon salads, as well as warm or cool teas and lemonade. Finely chopped pieces of mint can be added to softened butter for a delicious spread. Fresh grilled meats taste great with a lemon juice and mint leaf marinade.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Salvia officinalis ‘Icterina’ is also known as golden sage. Golden sage has the same aromatic and flavor properties of traditional sage but boasts lovely variegated leaves that are a contrast from the grayish leaves of common garden sage. Is golden sage edible? You can harvest leaves from Icterina just as you would garden sage and use in the same culinary manner, but you get a more eye appealing foliar display that adds some punch to your herb garden. Learn how to grow a golden sage plant for aroma, flavor and non-toxic pest control.
Golden Sage Information
Sage is a historic herb with a long tradition of both culinary and medicinal use. Growing golden sage offers all these applications as well as a unique twist on the appearance. Its cream-colored leaves are decorated with an almost lime green patch in the center, which is irregular and varied on each leaf. The overall effect is striking, especially when combined with other herbs.
Golden sage produces a small shrub-like plant which may grow up to 2 feet tall and spread nearly twice as wide over time. This sun lover prefers soil slightly on the dry side and is drought tolerant once established. An interesting bit of golden sage information is its relation to the mint family. The aroma is not similar but the slightly fuzzy leaves are characteristic of the family. This sage, like its cousins, is a cultivar of the standard variety, Salvia officinalis. There are several variegated sages, among them Icterina and Aurea, which has more golden tones. Each is edible and useful in many home applications.
How to Grow a Golden Sage Plant
Small starts are readily available in many nurseries. Golden sage can also be propagated from cuttings. Many growers say Icterina does not bloom and is strictly an ornamental, but in my experience, the plant produces gorgeous purple flowers in late spring. Seeds can be unreliable, so growing golden sage through spring cuttings is a quick and easy way to make more of these lovely little shrubs. Root cuttings in sterile potting soil and keep evenly moist. To enhance rooting, provide heat and humidity by placing a bag or clear cover over the plant. Remove the cover once per day to release excess moisture and prevent root rot. Once the plants have rooted, move them to larger containers or wait until the following spring and harden them off. Then plant them in loose soil outdoors.
Golden Sage Care
Sage is a fairly self-sustaining plant. It doesn’t necessarily need fertilizer in spring but a good organic mulch can enhance plant health. The plants tend to get woody and leggy, so pruning is essential. A key to golden sage care and appearance is to cut it back in late winter to early spring or before flowering. Avoid pruning out the woody material unless it is dead, as this can result in die back. Some growers claim that planting golden sage in light, chalky soil will prevent the leggy characteristic. Alternatively, you can pinch new growth during the growing season to force the plant to produce more shoots and a more compact plant. The Icterina cultivar is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 11 and needs little special winter care. Golden sage performs well in containers or in ground situations. Just provide moderate water and bright sunshine and your plant will reward you with a blaze of variegated, light catching foliage all summer long.
Golden Sage Information
Sage is a historic herb with a long tradition of both culinary and medicinal use. Growing golden sage offers all these applications as well as a unique twist on the appearance. Its cream-colored leaves are decorated with an almost lime green patch in the center, which is irregular and varied on each leaf. The overall effect is striking, especially when combined with other herbs.
Golden sage produces a small shrub-like plant which may grow up to 2 feet tall and spread nearly twice as wide over time. This sun lover prefers soil slightly on the dry side and is drought tolerant once established. An interesting bit of golden sage information is its relation to the mint family. The aroma is not similar but the slightly fuzzy leaves are characteristic of the family. This sage, like its cousins, is a cultivar of the standard variety, Salvia officinalis. There are several variegated sages, among them Icterina and Aurea, which has more golden tones. Each is edible and useful in many home applications.
How to Grow a Golden Sage Plant
Small starts are readily available in many nurseries. Golden sage can also be propagated from cuttings. Many growers say Icterina does not bloom and is strictly an ornamental, but in my experience, the plant produces gorgeous purple flowers in late spring. Seeds can be unreliable, so growing golden sage through spring cuttings is a quick and easy way to make more of these lovely little shrubs. Root cuttings in sterile potting soil and keep evenly moist. To enhance rooting, provide heat and humidity by placing a bag or clear cover over the plant. Remove the cover once per day to release excess moisture and prevent root rot. Once the plants have rooted, move them to larger containers or wait until the following spring and harden them off. Then plant them in loose soil outdoors.
Golden Sage Care
Sage is a fairly self-sustaining plant. It doesn’t necessarily need fertilizer in spring but a good organic mulch can enhance plant health. The plants tend to get woody and leggy, so pruning is essential. A key to golden sage care and appearance is to cut it back in late winter to early spring or before flowering. Avoid pruning out the woody material unless it is dead, as this can result in die back. Some growers claim that planting golden sage in light, chalky soil will prevent the leggy characteristic. Alternatively, you can pinch new growth during the growing season to force the plant to produce more shoots and a more compact plant. The Icterina cultivar is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 11 and needs little special winter care. Golden sage performs well in containers or in ground situations. Just provide moderate water and bright sunshine and your plant will reward you with a blaze of variegated, light catching foliage all summer long.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
There are many reasons a spider plant may become discolored. If your spider plant is losing green color or you discover that part of a usually variegated spider plant is solid green, continue reading to learn some reasons and solutions.
Why is Spider Plant Losing Green Color?
In variegated plants, the white colored parts lack chlorophyll and cannot photosynthesize. If your spider plant is losing its green color, it is not able to absorb enough energy from the sun to keep it healthy and vigorous.
Most commonly this bleaching of the leaves is caused by too much sunlight. With too much sun, our skin tans or burns, but sunburn in plants causes leaves to bleach and blanch. For a spider plant that is turning white, first trying putting it in an area with less direct light. Spider plants especially don’t like direct afternoon sun. If your spider plant is losing its green color and a change of lighting doesn’t help, it could be iron deficient. Try a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen level like 12-5-7. Fluoride in tap water can also cause spider plants to discolor. You can leach the fluoride out by deep watering with distilled water.
Solid Green Spider Plant
Solid green spider plants occur naturally when plants revert to a parent plant. Variegation in plants is usually a genetic mutation. These mutations are propagated by breeders to create new plant varieties. Sometimes, the original genes can resurface. All green spiderettes can be snipped off and planted as new all green plants. Occasionally, when spider plant is turning green, it can be an indication of a serious problem. Turning solid green is a survival tragedy for plants that are struggling. It may be reverting back to a more successful form. It could be creating more food producing cells because it is lacking sunlight or nutrients, or is trying to fight pests or disease.
If your spider plant is turning green, repot it into fresh soil and give it a dose of rooting fertilizer. Be sure to clean the rhizomes when you take it out of its pot, look for pest damage and treat immediately. Set the plant in a location with different lighting and water only with distilled water. In most cases, with just a few changes in watering, location and growing medium, your spider plant may quickly recover from whatever is stressing it and causing it to discolor.
Why is Spider Plant Losing Green Color?
In variegated plants, the white colored parts lack chlorophyll and cannot photosynthesize. If your spider plant is losing its green color, it is not able to absorb enough energy from the sun to keep it healthy and vigorous.
Most commonly this bleaching of the leaves is caused by too much sunlight. With too much sun, our skin tans or burns, but sunburn in plants causes leaves to bleach and blanch. For a spider plant that is turning white, first trying putting it in an area with less direct light. Spider plants especially don’t like direct afternoon sun. If your spider plant is losing its green color and a change of lighting doesn’t help, it could be iron deficient. Try a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen level like 12-5-7. Fluoride in tap water can also cause spider plants to discolor. You can leach the fluoride out by deep watering with distilled water.
Solid Green Spider Plant
Solid green spider plants occur naturally when plants revert to a parent plant. Variegation in plants is usually a genetic mutation. These mutations are propagated by breeders to create new plant varieties. Sometimes, the original genes can resurface. All green spiderettes can be snipped off and planted as new all green plants. Occasionally, when spider plant is turning green, it can be an indication of a serious problem. Turning solid green is a survival tragedy for plants that are struggling. It may be reverting back to a more successful form. It could be creating more food producing cells because it is lacking sunlight or nutrients, or is trying to fight pests or disease.
If your spider plant is turning green, repot it into fresh soil and give it a dose of rooting fertilizer. Be sure to clean the rhizomes when you take it out of its pot, look for pest damage and treat immediately. Set the plant in a location with different lighting and water only with distilled water. In most cases, with just a few changes in watering, location and growing medium, your spider plant may quickly recover from whatever is stressing it and causing it to discolor.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Scheffleras are very popular house plants that produce big dark or variegated palmate leaves (leaves made up of several smaller leaflets growing out of a single point). Hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, they are often kept in pots indoors in colder areas. However, life indoors in a pot can be hard on a plant, and can often result in leggy, unhealthy looking shapes. That’s when it’s time to prune. Keep reading to learn more about trimming schefflera houseplants and how to prune a schefflera.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’re looking up how to repot rubber tree plants, you probably already have one. Whether you have the variety ‘Rubra,’ with dark green leaves and light-colored mid-veins, or ‘Tricolor,’ with variegated leaves, their needs are essentially the same. Rubber plants don’t mind being grown in pots because they originate in Southeast Asian rainforests where, like most rainforests, the soil layer is very thin and plants typically don’t root as deeply as those in temperate forests. Keep reading to learn more about rubber tree plant potting.
When Does Rubber Plant Need a New Pot?
If your rubber plant is still small and/or you don’t want it to grow much or to grow slowly, your plant may only need a little top dressing. If this is the case, simply scrape off the top half inch to inch (1.2 to 2.5 cm.) of soil and replace it with an equal layer of potting soil, compost, or another medium that contains slow-releasing nutrients. However, there will come a time when it is necessary to provide new space as well as nutrients to maintain the health and growth of your rubber tree plant. Potting it up is especially necessary if the rootball appears to be girdled, or growing around the sides of the pot. This tells you that you’re a bit past due for upgrading your plant to a bigger pot.
Repotting a Rubber Plant
Pick a pot that is somewhat larger than your current one without being excessively bigger. Usually increasing the pot size by 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) in diameter is sufficient for a large potted plant. If you use a pot that is too much larger than the current rootball, the soil may stay wet for too long after watering because there are no roots in the added soil to draw out the water, which can lead to root rot. This is also a good time to consider the plant’s growth since the last time it was put in a pot. When repotting a rubber plant that has gained a lot of top growth, you may need to choose a heavier pot or weigh down the pot by adding some sand to the growing medium to prevent tipping over, especially if you have children or animals that may occasionally pull on the plant. If you do use sand, be sure to use a coarse builder’s sand and not a fine child’s play sand. You’ll need the mix to contain a good amount of fertility in order to support the growth of the rubber plant for the next few months. Compost and potting soil both contain a good mix of slow-releasing nutrients that will help your rubber plant to thrive.
How to Repot Rubber Tree Plants
Once you have everything you need for repotting your rubber plant, it’s time to change pots. Remove the plant from its current pot and tease the roots some. This is also a good time to inspect the roots and perform any necessary root pruning. Add a fair amount of your soil medium to the base of the new pot. Situate the rubber plant on top of this, adjusting as needed. You want the surface of the root ball just below the rim, and simply fill in around and over the root ball with soil. Be sure to leave about an inch (2.5 cm.) or so of space from the rim of the pot for watering.
When Does Rubber Plant Need a New Pot?
If your rubber plant is still small and/or you don’t want it to grow much or to grow slowly, your plant may only need a little top dressing. If this is the case, simply scrape off the top half inch to inch (1.2 to 2.5 cm.) of soil and replace it with an equal layer of potting soil, compost, or another medium that contains slow-releasing nutrients. However, there will come a time when it is necessary to provide new space as well as nutrients to maintain the health and growth of your rubber tree plant. Potting it up is especially necessary if the rootball appears to be girdled, or growing around the sides of the pot. This tells you that you’re a bit past due for upgrading your plant to a bigger pot.
Repotting a Rubber Plant
Pick a pot that is somewhat larger than your current one without being excessively bigger. Usually increasing the pot size by 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) in diameter is sufficient for a large potted plant. If you use a pot that is too much larger than the current rootball, the soil may stay wet for too long after watering because there are no roots in the added soil to draw out the water, which can lead to root rot. This is also a good time to consider the plant’s growth since the last time it was put in a pot. When repotting a rubber plant that has gained a lot of top growth, you may need to choose a heavier pot or weigh down the pot by adding some sand to the growing medium to prevent tipping over, especially if you have children or animals that may occasionally pull on the plant. If you do use sand, be sure to use a coarse builder’s sand and not a fine child’s play sand. You’ll need the mix to contain a good amount of fertility in order to support the growth of the rubber plant for the next few months. Compost and potting soil both contain a good mix of slow-releasing nutrients that will help your rubber plant to thrive.
How to Repot Rubber Tree Plants
Once you have everything you need for repotting your rubber plant, it’s time to change pots. Remove the plant from its current pot and tease the roots some. This is also a good time to inspect the roots and perform any necessary root pruning. Add a fair amount of your soil medium to the base of the new pot. Situate the rubber plant on top of this, adjusting as needed. You want the surface of the root ball just below the rim, and simply fill in around and over the root ball with soil. Be sure to leave about an inch (2.5 cm.) or so of space from the rim of the pot for watering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
When it comes to indoor plants, a variegated ivy plant can add some sparkle and jazz to an otherwise boring room, but care of a variegated ivy differs somewhat from the care of other kinds of ivy. Read on to learn more about variegated ivy care.
Basic Care of a Variegated Ivy Plant
Variegated ivy leaves will typically have green and white or yellow markings. The white and yellow areas on the variegated ivy leaves lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves many purposes, the main ones being producing food for the variegated ivy plant and protecting the plant from the rays of the sun.
This means that because of the variegation, variegated ivy care is slightly different than normal green ivy care. First, a variegated ivy plant needs less sunlight and it must be placed out of direct sunlight. Proper care of a variegated ivy requires that you place the ivy plant in indirect or filtered bright sunlight. Variegated ivy leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight. Variegated ivy will do best on a window sill behind a sheer curtain.
The second secret to variegated ivy care is to significantly reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant. Because variegated ivy leaves have less chlorophyll, the plant produces less energy for growth. This means variegated ivy plants grow much slower than their all green cousins. Because they grow slower, they need much less food in the soil. The best fertilizer care of a variegated ivy is to fertilize only once a year, at most. Even then, do so only lightly. If you fertilize your variegated ivy any more than this, excess fertilizer will build up in the soil and can kill your plant.
Keeping Variegated Ivy Leaves Variegated
Variegated ivy leaves are caused by a genetic factor in the ivy plant, but, without proper variegated ivy care, a variegated ivy plant can revert to the more standard green leaves. One key factor is sunlight. While a variegated ivy plant can’t take direct sunlight, they do need bright sunlight. Without bright sunlight, the plant cannot make enough food from its chlorophyll to support itself. In order to survive, the plant will start to grow leaves with more green area. If left like this, the plant will eventually grow only green on the leaves. If this occurs, move the plant to brighter sunlight. The variegated ivy leaves should return over time. Occasionally, a variegated ivy plant will spontaneously revert to green leaves. You will know if this occurs because only part of the plant will be growing green leaves while the rest is fully variegated. If this happens, simply trim off the non-variegated ivy leaves to encourage growth of the right colored leaves.
Basic Care of a Variegated Ivy Plant
Variegated ivy leaves will typically have green and white or yellow markings. The white and yellow areas on the variegated ivy leaves lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves many purposes, the main ones being producing food for the variegated ivy plant and protecting the plant from the rays of the sun.
This means that because of the variegation, variegated ivy care is slightly different than normal green ivy care. First, a variegated ivy plant needs less sunlight and it must be placed out of direct sunlight. Proper care of a variegated ivy requires that you place the ivy plant in indirect or filtered bright sunlight. Variegated ivy leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight. Variegated ivy will do best on a window sill behind a sheer curtain.
The second secret to variegated ivy care is to significantly reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant. Because variegated ivy leaves have less chlorophyll, the plant produces less energy for growth. This means variegated ivy plants grow much slower than their all green cousins. Because they grow slower, they need much less food in the soil. The best fertilizer care of a variegated ivy is to fertilize only once a year, at most. Even then, do so only lightly. If you fertilize your variegated ivy any more than this, excess fertilizer will build up in the soil and can kill your plant.
Keeping Variegated Ivy Leaves Variegated
Variegated ivy leaves are caused by a genetic factor in the ivy plant, but, without proper variegated ivy care, a variegated ivy plant can revert to the more standard green leaves. One key factor is sunlight. While a variegated ivy plant can’t take direct sunlight, they do need bright sunlight. Without bright sunlight, the plant cannot make enough food from its chlorophyll to support itself. In order to survive, the plant will start to grow leaves with more green area. If left like this, the plant will eventually grow only green on the leaves. If this occurs, move the plant to brighter sunlight. The variegated ivy leaves should return over time. Occasionally, a variegated ivy plant will spontaneously revert to green leaves. You will know if this occurs because only part of the plant will be growing green leaves while the rest is fully variegated. If this happens, simply trim off the non-variegated ivy leaves to encourage growth of the right colored leaves.
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