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ritau
2020年08月09日
ritau
1. Purchase whole, untreated mung beans. Do not use beans packaged in gardening packets, which have probably been chemically treated. Check the label to make sure you’re purchasing whole and untreated beans which are made for sprouting and eating. 2. Measure out your desired amount of mung beans. Consider the size of the bowl or jar you plan to soak them in—the beans should fill about ¼ of the container. Mung beans get much bigger once they sprout, so be careful not to use too much. -The yield for sprouting mung beans is about 2 to 1, meaning if you use 1 pound of seeds you’ll end up with 2 pounds of sprouts. 3. Rinse your mung beans using a colander or strainer. Run clean water over the beans until it runs clear. They may be dusty, since the majority of mung beans are grown in China and are often left to dry on gravel roads. -This will help protect you from anything which might have been in the soil, like metals and toxins. -It will also wash away things like mites that may have made their way into the dried beans. 4. Place the beans in a clear, wide-mouth jar. Mason canning jars are a great option, but you can also reuse jars that held peanut butter or pasta sauce, for instance. The beans should fill up about a quarter of your container. 5. Submerge the beans in water and cover the jar with a mesh lid. Fill the jar partway with cool water, roughly 2-3 times the volume of the beans. Then, cover your jar with some type of breathable lid. -For a homemade option, you can use a piece of cheesecloth secured with rubber band. You could also punch holes into an existing metal or glass lid. -You could also purchase a specialized sprouting jar, which is sold with a pre-made strainer lid. -If you don’t have cheesecloth or a mesh lid, you can also soak your beans uncovered in a bowl or jar. 6. Soak the beans for 8-12 hours until they swell up. How long they have to soak will depend on the beans. Generally, larger beans will require a longer soak. You can place the jar on the countertop or in a cabinet—just make sure it’s not positioned in direct sunlight. -The beans should be soaking at room temperature, not in the fridge. 7. Drain and rinse the beans through the mesh lid. Drain away the excess water through the lid of your jar by flipping it over in the sink. Then, rinse the swollen beans with fresh water and drain it again. -If you don’t have a mesh lid or cheesecloth, you can also hold a strainer against the opening of your jar to drain the water.
8. Put the jar in a cool, dark place for 12 hours. Find a place that gets little to no sunlight where the beans will not be disturbed. Place the jar upside down and at an angle on a dish rack or cooling rack so the moisture can continue to be released. -Although the beans should not be exposed to direct sunlight, there’s no need for the storage location to be completely dark. A shadowy corner of your countertop would work well. 9. Repeat this process every 12 hours for 2-5 days. Rinse and drain the beans through the mesh lid approximately every 12 hours (or twice a day). Return them to their dark storage spot after each rinse session. -The beans should continue to grow in size and sprout thin white tails. 10. Give the sprouts a rinse once they’ve reached your desired length. Pour the sprouted beans into a colander and give them one last rinse before draining them thoroughly. Generally, mung beans taste good when they’re about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) long—but it’s mostly a matter of personal preference. -he green shells may have started to come off the white bean sprouts at this point. You can remove some of these empty shells from the mix with your hands if you like. 11. Spread the sprouted beans across a baking sheet lined in paper towels. Cover a baking sheet with two layers of dry paper towels, then pour the rinsed and drained beans on top. Spread them out in a thin layer with your hand and press gently to absorb any excess water. Once you’ve patted them dry, they are ready to be stored. -Pick out any unsprouted beans and throw them away. -To dry the beans even more thoroughly, cover them with another paper towel and press gently.
12. Place the sprouts into a bowl and store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Line the bowl with paper towels, then use your hands to transfer handfuls of sprouts into the container. Plan to eat the sprouts within 2 weeks. -Mung bean sprouts are a great base for a chilled salad, or a classic addition to a stir-fry.
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ritau
2020年08月05日
ritau
Mimosa pudica (from Latin: pudica "shy, bashful or shrinking"; also called sensitive plant, sleepy plant, action plant, Dormilones, touch-me-not, shameplant, zombie plant, shy lady or shy plant) is a creeping annual or perennial flowering plant of the pea/legume family Fabaceae and Magnoliopsida taxon, often grown for its curiosity value: the compound leaves fold inward and droop when touched or shaken, defending themselves from harm, and re-open a few minutes later. In the UK it has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit. The species is native to South and Central America, but is now a pantropical weed, and can be found in Southern United States, South Asia, East Asia and South Africa as well. It is not shade tolerant, and is primarily found on soils with low nutrient concentrations Mimosa pudica is well known for its rapid plant movement. Like a number of other plant species, it undergoes changes in leaf orientation termed "sleep" or nyctinastic movement. The foliage closes during darkness and reopens in light. This was first studied by the French scientist Jean-Jacques d'Ortous de Mairan. Due to Mimosa's unique response to touch, it became an ideal plant for many experiments regarding plant habituation and memory. The stem is erect in young plants, but becomes creeping or trailing with age. It can hang very low and become floppy. The stem is slender, branching, and sparsely to densely prickly, growing to a length of 1.5 m (5 ft). The leaves are bipinnately compound, with one or two pinnae pairs, and 10–26 leaflets per pinna. The petioles are also prickly. Pedunculate (stalked) pale pink or purple flower heads arise from the leaf axils in mid summer with more and more flowers as the plant gets older. The globose to ovoid heads are 8–10 mm (0.3–0.4 in) in diameter (excluding the stamens). On close examination, it is seen that the floret petals are red in their upper part and the filaments are pink to lavender. Pollens are circular with approximately 8 microns diameter.
The fruit consists of clusters of two to eight pods from 1–2 cm (0.4–0.8 in) long each, these being prickly on the margins. The pods break into two to five segments and contain pale brown seeds about 2.5 mm (0.1 in) long. The flowers are insect pollinated and wind pollinated.The seeds have hard seed coats which restrict germination and make osmotic pressure and soil acidity less significant hindrances. High temperatures are the main stimuli that cause the seeds to end dormancy. The roots of Mimosa pudica create carbon disulfide, which prevents certain pathogenic and mycorrhizal fungi from growing within the plant's rhizosphere. This allows the formation of nodules on the roots of the plant that contain endosymbiotic diazotrophs, which fix atmospheric nitrogen and convert it into a form that is usable by the plant. Wilhelm Pfeffer, a German botanist during the 17th century, used Mimosa in one of the first experiments testing plant habituation.Further experimentation was done in 1965, when Holmes and Gruenberg discovered that Mimosa could distinguish between two stimuli, a water drop and a finger touch. Their findings also demonstrated that the habituated behavior was not due to fatigue since the leaf-folding response returned when another stimulus was presented. Electrical signaling experiments were conducted on Mimosa pudica, where 1.3–1.5 volts and 2–10 µC of charge acted as the threshold to induce closing of the leaves. This topic was further explored in 2017 by neuroscientist Greg Gage who connected Mimosa pudica to Dionaea muscipula, better known as the Venus flytrap. Both plants had electrical wiring connecting them and were linked to an electrocardiogram. The results showed how causing an action potential in one plant led to an electrical response, causing both plants to respond.
Experiments were made on how anesthetics for animals could affect Mimosa pudica. These experiments showed that anesthetics cause narcosis of the motor organs, which was observed by the application of volatile ether, chloroform, carbon tetrachloride, hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, formaldehyde, and other substances. In 2018, two research groups from the Universities of Palermo (Italy) and Lugano (Switzerland) demonstrated the feasibility of using such plant as a building block for creating plant-based controllable two-color displays, exploiting air jets instead of electrical or touch-based stimulation.
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ritau
2020年08月02日
ritau
1. Purchase a mint seedling. Mint plants are notoriously difficult to begin from seed. Instead, visit your local nursery (or even sometimes your local grocery store) and purchase a mint seedling. Look for a seeding that is already at least 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) tall. -Some varieties of mint include sweet mint, chocolate mint, spearmint, lemon mint, apple mint, and peppermint. -Spearmint and peppermint are the most common. Spearmint is often used in baking and cooking. Peppermint is used more often for drinks, like mojitos and hot chocolate. 2. Propagate a new mint plant from a cutting. Trim a 4 in (10 cm) sprig from an existing mint plant, about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) above a junction. Place the trimming in a glass of water, and wait about 1 week. Small white roots should begin appearing under water. Wait another 2-7 days to allow the roots to develop. -Add water to the glass as necessary. -Change the water every 4-5 days to keeping your trimming healthy. 3. Use a “runner” from an existing outdoor mint plant. If you have a friend with an existing outdoor mint plant, you may be able to use one of their runners. “Runners” are long stems that grow away from a mint plant. Runners set their own roots in the ground, which means they can be carefully removed and transplanted into a new pot. Look for a runner, and use a trowel to gently remove it from the ground. 4. Find a container with a wide surface. Mint plants needs a lot of width to grow effectively, but they don’t need a great deal of depth. For each mint plant, look for a container at least 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) wide. -Ceramic planters are porous and lose moisture easily. Your mint might be happier in a plastic container. -You can repurpose a plastic container by drilling a hole in the bottom for drainage. 5. Fill your container with potting soil. You can pick up some potting soil from a local nursery, home improvement store, or big box store. Mint plants enjoy soil that drains well, so don’t pack the soil too tight. 6. Test your soil for a pH of 6-7.5. Mint plants are not super finicky, so they will accept a relatively wide pH range. Use a test kit to make sure your soil falls within this optimal range. -To lower the pH of your soil, add some compost, composted manure, or acidic mulch. -To raise the pH of your soil, add pelletized lime or wood ash.
7. Place your mint seedling in the container. Using a small trowel and/or your fingers, make a small opening in the soil. Carefully place your mint seedling into this opening. Move the soil around your seedling so that the roots are no longer exposed, and your seedling can stand up. -Indoor mint plants do not require fertilizer or mulch. 8. Water your seedling immediately after planting. Once you've gotten your mint plant in the soil, give your seedling a generous watering. For one mint plant, offer around 6–8 fluid ounces (180–240 ml) of water. Caring for: 1. Place your mint plant so it receives indirect sunlight. Choose an area that receives morning sun and partial afternoon shade. You want the plant to get some light without drying it out completely. Rotate your plant every 3-4 days. Mint plants will grow in the direction of sunlight, and rotating the plant helps to keep it from growing unevenly. Some good options include: -A windowsill that faces north. -A shelf across the room from a south-facing window. 2. Water your mint frequently. Water your mint at least every 2-3 days, or more if you live in a very dry climate or your mint is getting a lot of direct sunlight. Check the soil with a finger each day to ensure that the soil is moist. -Add around 1–2 cups (240–470 ml) to your mint plant at each watering. -Humidity can be important to the growing process, so consider misting your plant with water in between waterings. 3. Use water soluble fertilizer if desired. Mint plants do not often require fertilizer, but it can help improve your plant's growth if used occasionally. The best time to use fertilizer is in the spring when plants first start the new growing season. -Choose a water soluble, time-release fertilizer. -Too much fertilizer can alter the taste of your mint.
4. Harvest your mint leaves. Give your new mint plant anywhere from 2-6 weeks to get established. Then begin plucking off leaves as you need them. Avoid harvesting more than ⅓ of the plant at one time, as this can prevent proper regrowth. -Hang mint stems upside down to dry them. -Save mint leaves in an airtight container, like a jar or a small plastic bag. 5. Remove any flower buds before they open. Although the flowers that appear at the top of your mint plant are pretty, you’ll need to trim them off as soon as they appear. Use a pair of sharp scissors to clip the flowers off at the stem to prevent fewer, blander mint leaves. This prevents the plant from “going to seed.” When a mint plant starts producing seeds, it puts less energy toward leaf production.
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ritau
2020年07月30日
ritau
1. Dampen a paper towel and smooth it out on a flat surface. Start by soaking a paper towel with water, then squeeze out the excess water. Place the damp paper towel on a flat surface and smooth out any wrinkles. - The paper towel should fit inside your plastic zippered or resealable bag. If the paper towel is too big, then fold it in half or into quarters. 2. Pick out 5 to 10 plump seeds from an organic lemon. Seeds from non-organic lemons will not always sprout, so it is a good idea to prepare at least 10 seeds to ensure you have a healthy selection. Look for seeds that are large and plump. Skip the ones that look shriveled or like tiny, white specks. These will either not sprout, or they won't grow into a healthy seedling. - Even if you only plan on growing one lemon tree, it is a good idea to start with several seeds. Not all seeds will sprout, and not all seedlings will survive. - Take care to not crowd the seeds. They should be at least three inches apart, so that they have room for their roots as they germinate. 3. Consider keeping the seeds in a cup of water overnight. This will keep the seeds from drying out while you work. The seeds must stay moist. If they dry out, they will not sprout.
4. You can also peel the other white layer off to reveal a brown-colored seed. Start peeling from the pointy end. You can use your finger nail or a craft knife to nick the tip, and then peel the outer shell down. This will make it easier for the seeds to sprout and speed up the process, but is not necessary for germination to occur. 5. Peel the brown seed cover off as well. You may notice that your seed is covered with a thin, brown film. Use your fingernail to scratch this coating off. 6. Place the seeds onto the damp paper towel. Try to spread the seeds out as evenly as you can, so that the roots don't become tangled when they sprout. 7. Repeat the peeling process for the rest of the seeds and place them down onto the towel. Once the seeds are on the paper towel, they should stay damp. If you notice them starting to get dry out, consider covering the paper towel with another damp paper towel, or folding the first one overtop of them. 8. Repeat the peeling process for the rest of the seeds and place them down onto the towel. Once the seeds are on the paper towel, they should stay damp. If you notice them starting to get dry out, consider covering the paper towel with another damp paper towel, or folding the first one overtop of them. 9. Slip the paper towel into a plastic zippered or resealable bag, and close the bag tightly. Don't use a plastic grocery bag. You want the bag to be zippered or resealable; this will help trap the moisture and retain heat. Your seeds will need both in order to sprout. 10. Keep the plastic bag in a dark, warm location until the seeds sprout. Keep the temperature between 68 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. It will take one to two weeks. Some seedlings will need up to three weeks to sprout.
11. Transplant the seedlings when the tails are about 3.15 inches (8 centimeters) long. Make a shallow hole (a half inch deep) in a pot of damp, well-drained soil, and tuck the seedling, tail-side-down into the hole. Gently pat the soil around the seedling. 12. Move the pot to a warm, sunny location. Remember to water the plant and to keep the soil damp; do not allow the soil to become soggy or dry. Click here to learn how to take care of your seedling.
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ritau
2020年07月29日
ritau
1. Prepare your potting soil in a separate bucket. Pour some soil into a large bucket and add water to it until it is damp. Mix the soil with your hand or a trowel until it is evenly damp. Do not allow the soil to become soggy, or the seeds will rot. You will need a well-draining soil. Lemon trees love water, but they hate to sit in it. -Try to get a pasteurized soil mix. Pasteurization gets rid of any bacteria that can kill seeds. -Consider getting a soil that is a blend of peat, perlite, vermiculite, and organic fertilizer. This will give your seedling proper drainage and nutrients. 2. Choose a small pot with drainage holes. The pot should be about 3 to 4 inches (7.62 to 10.16 centimeters) wide, and 5 to 6 inches (12.7 to 15.24 centimeters) deep.This pot will be enough for one seed. Some people like to plant several seeds in one pot at a time. If you want to do this too, choose a larger pot. Your pot must have drainage holes. If your pot does not have any, you will need to drill some. 3. Fill the pot with soil. Stop when the top of the soil is about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) from the rim. 4. Make a ½ inch (1.27 centimeter) deep hole in the soil. You can do this using your finger or a pencil. 5. Choose a plump-looking seed from a lemon. It may be necessary to use an organic lemon because seeds from a non-organic lemon may not sprout. Also, avoid taking any seeds that look too tiny (like a grain of rice) or that look shriveled (like a raisin). These seeds either won't sprout or won't grow into healthy seedlings. Consider planting 5 to 10 lemon seeds at one time, in case some of the seeds don't sprout or don't make it past seedling-hood. Keep in mind that trees that come from seeds are not identical to the parent tree that they came from. Sometimes, the fruit that the new saplings produce is of a lesser quality. Other times, they do not produce edible fruit at all. This does not prevent the young tree from being visually pleasing. Keep this in mind when growing your tree.
6. Wash the seed to get rid of the slimy coating. You can do this by washing the lemon seed or by sucking on it until the coating is gone. This is important. The gel-like coating contains sugars, which can cause the seed to rot. Consider leaving the lemon seeds in a cup of warm water overnight. This will help them sprout faster. 7. Drop the seed into the hole and cover it up. Make sure that the pointy tip is pointing downward into the soil, and the rounded part is pointing upward towards you. The roots will come out of the pointy part. 8. Cover the pot with a piece of breathable plastic to trap warmth and moisture. Begin by placing a sheet of clear plastic cling wrap over the pot. Wrap a rubber band around the plastic wrap to secure it to the pot. Poke a few holes into the plastic wrap. You can use a pencil, a toothpick, or even a fork. These holes will allow the plant to breathe. 9. Place the pot in a warm location. You can place the pot in a sunny location too, but sunlight is not vital at this point. In fact, too much sunlight can "cook" the young, delicate seedlings. You should see a sprout emerge in about two weeks. The ideal temperature is between 68°F and 82.4°F (20°C and 28°C).
10. Water the soil when you see it become dry. The plastic wrap should trap the moisture, and the condensation should rain down onto the soil, making it damp again. In very dry environments, this may not happen. If you see the soil start to become dry, remove the plastic wrap and water the plant. Be sure to re-cover the pot with the plastic wrap when you are done watering. 11. Remove the plastic covering once the sprout appears and transfer the pot to a warm, sunny location. Remember to keep the soil damp, but do not let it become soggy. Click here to learn how to take care of your seedling.
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ritau
2020年07月27日
ritau
1. Obtain coffee grounds. Growing mushrooms from coffee grounds is a fun project which helps to use up coffee grounds that would otherwise go to waste. Coffee grounds are a fantastic growing medium for mushrooms (oyster mushrooms in particular) as they are already sterilized thanks to the coffee brewing process and are full of nutrients. For 500 g (17.6 oz) of mushroom spawn, you will need 2.5 kg (88 oz) of fresh coffee grounds. The best way to get this amount of fresh coffee grounds (brewed that day) is to go to a cafe and ask nicely. They're usually more than happy to give it away. 2. Find a container for the mushrooms. The best thing to use is a filter patch grow bag, which can usually be purchased along with the mushroom spawn. Otherwise you can use a large, sealable freezer bag or a sterilized milk carton or ice cream tub, with four small holes poked into the sides.
3. Transfer the spawn into the container. Wash your hands thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap, then mix the mushroom spawn into the coffee grounds, breaking them up with your hands to ensure that they are evenly distributed. Place the inoculated coffee grinds into the plastic bag or container and seal tightly. 4. Put the mushrooms in the right environment. Place the bag or container in a warm, dark location, somewhere between 64 and 77°F (18 to 25°C), like in an airing cupboard or under the sink. Leave it here for two to four weeks or until it turns entirely white — this due to the mycelia colonizing the coffee grinds. -Again, cut out any dark spots of green or brown that develop on the colonizing substrate, as this can make you sick. 5. Relocate the mushrooms. Once the bag or container's contents have turned completely white, move it to a bright area (but not into direct sunlight) and cut a 2" by 2" hole at the top. Mist the contents of the container with water twice daily to prevent it from drying out — the mushrooms won't grow in too-dry conditions. 6. Harvest the mushrooms. Over the next five to seven days, tiny mushrooms will begin to sprout. Continue to mist them with water and they should double in size each day. When the cups of the mushrooms have started to turn slightly upwards, they are ready to harvest. When the mushrooms have stopped sprouting, plant the coffee grinds outdoors under bark mulch or compost and new mushrooms may develop, depending on the weather.
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ritau
2020年07月24日
ritau
The orange is the fruit of various citrus species in the family Rutaceae (see list of plants known as orange); it primarily refers to Citrus × sinensis, which is also called sweet orange, to distinguish it from the related Citrus × aurantium, referred to as bitter orange. The sweet orange reproduces asexually (apomixis through nucellar embryony); varieties of sweet orange arise through mutations. The orange is a hybrid between pomelo (Citrus maxima) and mandarin (Citrus reticulata). The chloroplast genome, and therefore the maternal line, is that of pomelo. The sweet orange has had its full genome sequenced. All citrus trees belong to the single genus Citrus and remain almost entirely interfertile. This includes grapefruits, lemons, limes, oranges, and various other types and hybrids. As the interfertility of oranges and other citrus has produced numerous hybrids and cultivars, and bud mutations have also been selected, citrus taxonomy is fairly controversial, confusing or inconsistent. The fruit of any citrus tree is considered a hesperidium, a kind of modified berry; it is covered by a rind originated by a rugged thickening of the ovary wall.
Different names have been given to the many varieties of the species. Orange applies primarily to the sweet orange – Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck. The orange tree is an evergreen, flowering tree, with an average height of 9 to 10 m (30 to 33 ft), although some very old specimens can reach 15 m (49 ft). Its oval leaves, alternately arranged, are 4 to 10 cm (1.6 to 3.9 in) long and have crenulate margins. Sweet oranges grow in a range of different sizes, and shapes varying from spherical to oblong. Inside and attached to the rind is a porous white tissue, the white, bitter mesocarp or albedo (pith).The orange contains a number of distinct carpels (segments) inside, typically about ten, each delimited by a membrane, and containing many juice-filled vesicles and usually a few seeds (pips). When unripe, the fruit is green. The grainy irregular rind of the ripe fruit can range from bright orange to yellow-orange, but frequently retains green patches or, under warm climate conditions, remains entirely green. Like all other citrus fruits, the sweet orange is non-climacteric. The Citrus sinensis group is subdivided into four classes with distinct characteristics: common oranges, blood or pigmented oranges, navel oranges, and acidless oranges. As with other citrus fruits, orange pulp is an excellent source of vitamin C, providing 64% of the Daily Value in a 100 g serving (right table). Numerous other essential nutrients are present in low amounts (right table). Oranges contain diverse phytochemicals, including carotenoids (beta-carotene, lutein and beta-cryptoxanthin), flavonoids (e.g. naringenin) and numerous volatile organic compounds producing orange aroma, including aldehydes, esters, terpenes, alcohols, and ketones. Orange squeezer for making juice Orange juice contains only about one-fifth the citric acid of lime or lemon juice (which contain about 47 g/l).
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ritau
2020年07月21日
ritau
Radishes are grown and consumed throughout the world, being mostly eaten raw as a crunchy salad vegetable with bite. There are numerous varieties, varying in size, flavor, color, and length of time they take to mature. Radishes owe their sharp flavor to the various chemical compounds produced by the plants, including glucosinolate, myrosinase, and isothiocyanate. They are sometimes grown as companion plants and suffer from few pests and diseases. They germinate quickly and grow rapidly, common smaller varieties being ready for consumption within a month, while larger daikon varieties take several months. Being easy to grow and quick to harvest, radishes are often planted by novice gardeners. Another use of radish is as a cover or catch crop in winter, or as a forage crop. Some radishes are grown for their seeds; others, like daikon, may be grown for oil production. Others are used for sprouting. 1. Decide what variety of radishes you want to plant. Like many vegetables, there are innumerable varieties of radishes at your disposal, both hybrid and open-pollinated. If you are a novice gardener, consider growing Cherry Belle radishes; they mature in just 22 days and have a pleasant, mild flavor. -Spring radishes are the types that people are most familiar (like the Cherry Belle radish, which is red on the outside and white on the inside). You want to make sure that you're growing these in spring or fall. They tend to be the fastest growing radish, as well. -Typically the summer radish is similar to the spring radish but tends to grow more slowly, taking around 6-8 weeks to mature. -The winter radish is much larger and starchier than the spring and summer radishes and takes longer to grow. It's best to sow it in late summer for a fall or winter harvest. Winter radishes include Daikon and Champions. Daikon can grow to 18 inches (45 cm) long and takes 60 days to mature, and includes some extra-spicy varieties. 2. Pick the right site for growing. Radishes should be planted in an area with full sun or partial shade, and loose, well-drained soil. Remove any rocks from the soil, as the roots will bifurcate around any rocks in their way. Add organic matter to the soil before planting, such as compost, manure, or leaf mold. -Make sure your radishes are getting plenty of sunlight. Otherwise, they will grow big on top and very small in the root section. However, too much sunlight can cause radishes to go to seed. -The soil needs to be free of rocks, well-drained and have a pH content of around 7.4. This high pH content helps prevent club root, a brassica-infecting fungus that causes plant roots to swell, misshape, crack, rot and sometimes lead to plant death. To raise the pH, add dolomite lime or agricultural lime in autumn. Use plenty of organic matter (like compost) in the soil. -For best results, conduct a soil test or send soil samples to a lab to check for proper nutrients. Make any adjustments to the soil at least one week before planting.
3. Schedule your radish plantings. Radishes are a cool weather crop best planted in spring and autumn. Growing radishes during the hot summer months may cause them to bolt. You can plant your first crop a full 2 weeks before the last frost in spring, as radishes endure frost well. -Stop growing when hot weather shows up. This basically means that if you're having consecutive days of 60 °F (16 °C) or above you should hold off on your radish planting until it gets cooler. -A typical spring radish germinates in about 5 days and is ready for harvest in 3 to 4 weeks. -Because radishes grow so quickly, you can "inter-crop" them between slow-growing vegetables to make row markers. You can also "succession plant" them by sowing a new row each week, to spread your harvest over a longer period. 4. Sow the radish seeds. You will want them to be about 1/2 inch (12.5 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) apart. As they germinate, thin the successful seedlings to about 2 inches (5 cm) apart, allowing more space for bigger varieties. Rows should be planted about 1 foot (30 cm) apart. -You will want to thin the radishes when they have grown about 1 inch. Aim to just cut off their heads with a small pair of scissors, all the way down to the soil. -If you're planting a large radish you will want to plant the seeds about 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch deep. -Radishes work well as companion plants, because they keep a lot of the bugs off the regular plants and they grow more quickly. Plant them alongside carrots, parsnips, and cabbages. 5. Water the radishes as they grow. Keep the radish beds moist, but not soaked. Watering radishes frequently and evenly will result in quick growth; if radishes grow too slowly, they will develop a hot, woody taste. Add compost to the radish bed as desired to help retain moisture. -If you don't water them evenly (for example, not watering for a few days and then drowning them) the radishes can crack.
6. Harvest the radishes. Radishes are typically ready to harvest when their roots are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Check your seed packet for your variety's expected size at harvest and time to maturity. To harvest, lift the entire plant out of the ground with your hand. -You can also push back the dirt and see if a bulb has grown. If so, pull a few radishes and taste them. That will let you know if they're ready to be harvested. -Unlike many root vegetables, radishes cannot be left in the ground, as doing so will cause them to become tough and pithy.
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ritau
2020年07月21日
ritau
大暑，是二十四节气中的第十二个节气。斯时天气甚烈于小暑，故名曰大暑。二十四节气是上古先民顺应农时，通过观察天体运行，认知一岁中时令、气候、物候等方面变化规律所形成的知识体系。季风气候是我国气候的主要特点，季风气候是大陆性气候与海洋性气候的混合型。冬季受来自内陆的干冷气流的影响，天气寒冷，干燥少雨；夏季受来自海洋的暖湿气流的影响，高温潮湿多雨。季风气候的高温与多雨时期基本一致，雨热同期。高温潮湿多雨虽然不免有闷热难熬之苦，却对农业十分有利，因为在农作物生长旺盛，最需要水分的时候能有充沛的雨水供应。大暑节气，高温酷热、雷暴频繁，雨量充沛，是万物狂长的时节。（来自：百度百科）
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