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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
Description: This annual plant is 1–2½' tall, branching occasionally. It has a tendency to sprawl in the absence of supportive vegetation. The dark green stems are grooved and hairless. The opposite leaves are 1-3" long, dark green, and linear. They have smooth margins and a prominent midvein. The leaves are usually hairless, although new growth may be slightly pubescent. Secondary leaves may develop from the axils of the primary leaves along the central stem, but they are smaller in size than the latter. Some of the upper stems develop racemes of flowers. These flowers are up to 1" long and across, and vary in color from lavender to purple.
The corolla of each flower is tubular and has 5 spreading lobes that are ciliate, consisting of 2 upper lobes, 2 sides lobes, and a lower lobe. Within the throat of the corolla there are specks of dark purple and 2 patches of pale yellow. There are abundant white hairs within the corolla where the reproductive organs are located. The anthers are pale yellow and the narrow style is white. The green calyx is tubular and divided into 5 triangular lobes. These lobes are one-half the length of the calyx tube or less. The calyx is hairless and has little or no reticulation. The blooming period occurs from late summer until the fall, and lasts about a month. There is no noticeable floral scent. After the flowers are fertilized and wither away, there develops rounded capsules that are a little longer than the calyx tube. These capsules contain numerous tiny seeds. When the capsules split open at the top, gusts of wind can distribution the seeds a considerable distance. The root system is fibrous and possibly parasitic on other species of plants. Purple False Foxglove spreads by reseeding itself, and does not reproduce vegetatively.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and moist soil that is sandy or peaty. Because the seeds are small, young plantlets may wither away if they are allowed to become too dry. A soil with an acid pH is preferred.
Stem & Leaves
Range & Habitat: Purple False Foxglove occurs occasionally throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is native. This is one of the more common Agalinis spp. in the state. Habitats include moist sand prairies, sandy savannas, paths and openings in sandy woodlands, boggy areas, and interdunal sandflats near Lake Michigan. This plant appears to thrive in areas with occasional disturbance as this removes some of the competing vegetation.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees, digger bees (Melissodes spp.), and leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.) visit the flowers for nectar and pollen. The caterpillars of the butterfly Junonia coenia (Buckeye) feed on the foliage. A flea beetle, Kuschelina fallax, feeds on a very similar species, Agalinis fasciculata (Beach False Foxglove), and it is possible that this flea beetle feeds on other Agalinis spp., including Purple False Foxglove. Very little appears to be known about the relationships of these plants to mammalian herbivores as sources of food.
Photographic Location: Along a path in a sandy savanna at Hooper Branch Savanna Nature Preserve in Iroquois County, Illinois, where this plant species is locally abundant.
Comments: The flowers are quite attractive and produced in abundance during the late summer or fall. At one time the scientific name for this species was Gerardia purpurea, but the purple-flowered false foxgloves were reassigned to the genus Agalinis, while the yellow-flowered false foxgloves were reassigned to the genus Aureolaria. Distinguishing the different Agalinis spp. can be tricky as they have similar foliage and flowers. Purple False Foxglove has larger flowers (up to 1" long and across) than some other Agalinis spp. and they occur on pedicels (flowering stalks) that are shorter than the tubular calyx (the pedicels are about 1/8" long). The flowers are always some shade of purple or lavender, while the flowers of some Agalinis spp. are often pinkish in appearance. Purple False Foxglove is quite similar in appearance to Agalinis fasciculata (Beach False Foxglove), however this latter species has secondary leaves that are nearly as large as the primary leaves (i.e., the leaves appear to be whorled along the major stems). If they are present, such secondary leaves are smaller in size than the primary leaves in Purple False Foxglove.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
1. Compact Cameras are Fine
The first thing people tell me when they see my photographs of flowers is that my DSLR makes them possible. They're wrong. You do not need to have big cameras to make nice photographs of flowers.
I've photographed flowers for my collection with everything from full frame DSLRs to compact cameras. Let me say this: I prefer DSLRs, but it's not the gear that is important. It's the photographer.
Compact cameras are good for photographing flowers, and some of them can focus so close, you'll beat out the DSLR photographers that need to spend lots of money in macro lenses to achieve the same effect.
I carry a small compact in my pocket all the time. Most modern compact can focus on things just a few inches away from the lens. Some days I take a Micro 4/3 with me, and it never stopped me from getting the shots I want. You just have to adapt to the gear you've, because your best camera is always the one you have at the moment things happen!
The picture above, of a California poppy, taken at the roundabout of a circular junction, was made with a cheap compact camera. I just stopped the car close by and went on to photograph it, surprising the drivers passing by, as they saw me lying on the ground. I did it because I wanted to take a picture that was different from what most people do.
2. Get Down on Your Knees
One of the most important things to remember is to change your point of view. As I am a frequent visitor to public gardens and other places with flowers, I see how many amateurs photograph flowers: they come close to it, look down from above and shoot then they move on to another subject. Wrong move!
Getting down on your knees shows a different perspective of the world, and opens a new horizon for your flower photography.
To really photograph flowers you can not just take a snapshot and go away. Try to sit down at the level of the flowers and really look at them. It’s when you sit and watch that you discover more than the casual photographer does. You'll start to really see.
3. Sit, Meditate and See
Photographing flowers is a good excuse to meditate. Sit down, try to find a spot away from people (if it’s possible) and relax. Don’t grab your camera and start shooting immediately. Take your time to sense the odors, examine the structure, colors and shapes.
Look around and try to spot a few possible images around you without moving from the same place. That works for me. Visualize possible framings and how it will all come together in the end.
4. Play With Your Lens
Start playing with the lens you want to use. Explore it to understand how to achieve different results. Forget the full automatic programs and choose one that lets you control your aperture. It is crucial for flower photography.
Find how close you can go to the flower. Every lens has a different minimum focusing distance.
Compact cameras are excellent in this area because they let you go very close, so close that sometimes you just get a little bit of the flower. Do it, sometimes less is more. You don’t need to have the whole flower in the frame to tell people what you want.
5. My Best Lens for Flowers
People will many times associate a macro lens with flower photography, but it does not always have to be so. In fact, my favorite lens for flower photography is a 100-400mm lens used at the longer end of the zoom. I like the way it renders flowers and backgrounds, easily separating the subject from the rest.
Me and my favorite lens for flower photography shot "at work." This picture is by my older son, Miguel Antunes.
Most of the time I do not use a tripod, so, I need to use a high shutter speed, and that means a wide aperture, as I try to stay at low ISOs, mostly 100-400 ISO. In fact, I rarely try to have the whole flower in focus, so it does not matter.
I always try to photograph from an angle that gives me a fairly good plane of focus on the best angle of the flower, and that's all I have to care about.
6. Isolate Your Subject
Pictures like the one below of a white poppy in a field of poppies only work if you can keep the background out of focus. The distance from your main subject is crucial, as well as aperture and the lens in use. Longer lenses compress planes of focus and are excellent for this. Working close to the flower also helps.
The aperture used is paramount in flower photography. Always check the aperture you're using and use the option to preview the depth of field if your camera has it.
It is at times like this that I love the effect my 100-400mm zoom offers me. As long as my subject is against a background that can be thrown out of focus, results like this one can be achieved.
From my experience, though, sometimes there is no way to get everything in balance, and then I give up and look for another flower that might fill all the conditions needed to get the picture I want.
7. Use Contrasting Backgrounds
Using a background that has a different colour than the main subject helps to define what is important in the picture, and in these situations the solution for what could be a busy background is achieved another way.
Kneeling or even lying on the ground will help you to find all these relations between the main subject and the environment that otherwise would not be perceived.
8. Get the Whole Picture
I always tell students in my workshops to follow the "peel the onion" approach when it comes to photographing flowers (and other themes too). I rarely shoot a single photo of a flower or a series from just one angle.
I can start by doing the photo that attracted me first, but then I go back to general views and move towards getting more detail again. From my experience I've found that the more you stay with a subject, the more you can discover about it.
"Peeling the onion," which means methodically removing each layer of the onion, is a good working solution when you are facing a subject you feel has potential, but you seem to not be able to get a good picture of.
Slowly moving from general shots to more intimate images helps to, eventually, reach a moment when everything fits in place and you get your picture of the day.
Again, remember that with modern cameras, mainly compacts and some "mirrorless" systems, you can get rather close with the kit lenses, so there is no reason to envy DSLR users and their macro lenses that cost much more money!
9. Control Your Depth of Field
When photographing flowers, many of us want everything in focus. When you get everything in focus, you often get a messy image.
With flowers it is wise to keep them separated from the background, unless you're looking for a specific result. You have various ways to do this: use a macro and/or a long lens, open the aperture and go around the flower, as a hunter does to its prey, to check if there's a better angle to shoot from. Don't shy away from trying different solutions and accept that sometimes it is better to give up and look elsewhere.
Armed with these suggestions – and the hint of the photographs published with this article – I bet you’ll soon be taking home very different photographs of flowers.
10. Develop Your Own Recipe
Look carefully at my images and you'll learn a lot. I know, because I've done the same looking at the work of photographers such as George Lepp, famous for his California poppies images and tulips. I learned a lot looking at his photographs of flowers and trying to apply the same techniques to my work.
I do not think there is anything special, a hidden trick, to make pictures like I do. I have common gear. I usually shoot with a Canon EOS 50D, although I have access to other equipment.
My most important tip when it comes to photography is time. Take the time to be patient, sit down, listen to the flowers. I even talk with flowers everywhere I go.
This image is a composite of two images shot sequentially. There is little movement between shots, taken at different exposures too, for a kind of HDR result with some softness mixed with good detail.
Flower photography is not a mechanical thing. Once you understand how light works, flower photography is the result of sitting and watching. And waiting. And returning over and over to the same spots. My pictures are examples of that practice. Now go and try it for yourself.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Aphids
Aphids can weaken peanut plants as well as spread disease. The 1/16-inch-long light green bugs multiply rapidly, and by sucking sap from plants can cause considerable damage in a short time. Check the plants regularly and control aphids with insecticidal soap sprays.
Leaf Spot
Leaf spot is a fungus that's especially prevalent in areas where the weather is warm and moist. Small spots with light centers appear on plant leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. To control leaf spot, rotate crops, plant certified disease-free seeds, remove and burn damaged leaves, and stay away from plants when they're wet.
Nematodes
Nematodes are microscopic eel-like creatures that can be beneficial or harmful. Several species of nematodes plague southern gardeners, stunting plant growth, killing root systems and cutting down yields. In addition to feeding on plant roots, they may also carry and spread disease. Stunted, yellowed and wilted plants are symptomatic of nematode damage. Preventive measures include crop rotation and adding loads of organic matter to your garden before planting. For information on nematode control in your area, contact your Extension Service agent.
Leafhoppers
Potato leafhoppers suck on the undersides of leaves, spreading diseases and causing the tips of peanut leaves to turn yellow. These tiny green insects are sometimes referred to as "sharpshooters" because of their wedgelike shape. To prevent leafhopper damage, control weeds around your garden and cover plants with floating row covers. If leafhoppers succeed in infesting your plants, spray with pyrethrum.
Rootworms
Southern corn rootworms bore into young plants and feed on peanut pegs and pods in the soil. These insects can slow healthy growth or even kill entire peanut plants. They're about 1/2 inch long, slender and yellowish white with a brown head. This pest is the larval stage of the spotted cucumber beetle. To control corn rootworms, treat your soil with beneficial nematodes.
Thrips
Thrips are microscopic pests that can transmit diseases among vegetables - especially in hot, humid climates. If you notice damage in the form of whitish patches on leaves, control with insecticidal soap or destroy severely infested plants.
Grubs
White grubs live in the soil and feed on the underground parts of peanut plants. The larvae are smooth and grayish white with hard brown heads. Mature grubs have curved 1/2- to one-inch-long bodies with six prominent legs. Control grub damage by growing green manure crops and by not planting peanuts where grass recently grew. Treat the soil with beneficial nematodes or milky spore powder.
Wireworms
Wireworms vary in color from dark brown to pale yellow and reach 1/2 to 1-1/4 inches long when fully grown. Their segmented bodies are hard and shiny, and like white grubs, wireworms feed on roots and other underground parts of peanut plants. Control wireworms with beneficial nematodes.
Aphids can weaken peanut plants as well as spread disease. The 1/16-inch-long light green bugs multiply rapidly, and by sucking sap from plants can cause considerable damage in a short time. Check the plants regularly and control aphids with insecticidal soap sprays.
Leaf Spot
Leaf spot is a fungus that's especially prevalent in areas where the weather is warm and moist. Small spots with light centers appear on plant leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. To control leaf spot, rotate crops, plant certified disease-free seeds, remove and burn damaged leaves, and stay away from plants when they're wet.
Nematodes
Nematodes are microscopic eel-like creatures that can be beneficial or harmful. Several species of nematodes plague southern gardeners, stunting plant growth, killing root systems and cutting down yields. In addition to feeding on plant roots, they may also carry and spread disease. Stunted, yellowed and wilted plants are symptomatic of nematode damage. Preventive measures include crop rotation and adding loads of organic matter to your garden before planting. For information on nematode control in your area, contact your Extension Service agent.
Leafhoppers
Potato leafhoppers suck on the undersides of leaves, spreading diseases and causing the tips of peanut leaves to turn yellow. These tiny green insects are sometimes referred to as "sharpshooters" because of their wedgelike shape. To prevent leafhopper damage, control weeds around your garden and cover plants with floating row covers. If leafhoppers succeed in infesting your plants, spray with pyrethrum.
Rootworms
Southern corn rootworms bore into young plants and feed on peanut pegs and pods in the soil. These insects can slow healthy growth or even kill entire peanut plants. They're about 1/2 inch long, slender and yellowish white with a brown head. This pest is the larval stage of the spotted cucumber beetle. To control corn rootworms, treat your soil with beneficial nematodes.
Thrips
Thrips are microscopic pests that can transmit diseases among vegetables - especially in hot, humid climates. If you notice damage in the form of whitish patches on leaves, control with insecticidal soap or destroy severely infested plants.
Grubs
White grubs live in the soil and feed on the underground parts of peanut plants. The larvae are smooth and grayish white with hard brown heads. Mature grubs have curved 1/2- to one-inch-long bodies with six prominent legs. Control grub damage by growing green manure crops and by not planting peanuts where grass recently grew. Treat the soil with beneficial nematodes or milky spore powder.
Wireworms
Wireworms vary in color from dark brown to pale yellow and reach 1/2 to 1-1/4 inches long when fully grown. Their segmented bodies are hard and shiny, and like white grubs, wireworms feed on roots and other underground parts of peanut plants. Control wireworms with beneficial nematodes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Family - Asteraceae
Stems - To 1m tall, erect, herbaceous, fro a vertical caudex and slightly thickened roots, terete, glabrescent basally, hispidulous with multicellular hairs in the apical 1/2.
Leaves - Alternate, the basal and lower-most petiolate, sessile above. Petioles of the basal leaves to +20cm long, with a very narrow adaxial groove, mostly glabrous but with some hairs in the groove. Blades to +/-20cm long, +/-8cm broad, scabrous above and below, greyish because of dense hairs below, elliptic-lanceolate, shallow serrate, acute, tapering slightly at the base. Cauline leaves sessile, quickly reduced upward, shallow crenate-serrate, densely pubescent (with a greyish cast), scabrous, those in the middle of the stem oblanceolate. Leaves in the apical 1/3 of the stem reduced to bracts, ovate to orbicular.
Inflorescence - Terminal corymbiform arrangement of flowerheads. Peduncles densely hispidulous. Each division of the inflorescence subtended by a small foliaceous bract.
Involucre - To +8mm long (tall), 5mm in diameter, cylindric. Phyllaries imbricate, appressed, unequal, the longest to 6mm long, 2mm broad, rounded at the apex, greenish (mostly at the apex), scarious below, with a green midrib, glabrous internally and externally, with ciliolate margins, oblong.
Ray flowers - Flowers 8-10 per flowerhead, fertile, pistillate. Corolla tube 4mm long, glabrous, yellowish. Ligule 4mm long, 2mm broad, yellow, glabrous or with a few sparse hairs, rounded at the apex. Style purplish, glabrous, thin, 5mm long, bifurcate. Stigmas 1mm long. Pappus of capillary bristles, white, 5mm long. Bristles antrorse barbellate. Achene green in flower, 2.2mm long, ribbed, glabrous.
Disk flowers - Disk corollas yellow, contracted and thin in the basal 2/3, expanded in the upper 1/3, 5mm long, 5-lobed, glabrous or with a few small hairs. Lobes acute, spreading, 1.1mm long. Stamens 5, adnate in the basal 1/3 of the corolla tube. Filaments glabrous, compressed, thin, glabrous, yellowish. Anthers yellow, 2.5mm long, connate around the style, partially to wholly exserted, acute at the apices. Style exserted, purplish, bifurcate for about 1mm. Stigmas erect (mostly). Pappus and achenes as the ray flowers.
Flowering - August - October.
Habitat - Prairies, glades, rocky open ground, thickets, borders of wet meadows.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This showy species can be found throughout most of Missouri but is apparently absent in the southeast corner of the state. The plant is easy to identify in the field because of its big basal leaves and large, showy flowerheads. It has larger flowerheads than any other Solidago species in Missouri. This is a characteristic plant of prairies and is certainly worthy of cultivation as it is drought tolerant and requires little care.
Stems - To 1m tall, erect, herbaceous, fro a vertical caudex and slightly thickened roots, terete, glabrescent basally, hispidulous with multicellular hairs in the apical 1/2.
Leaves - Alternate, the basal and lower-most petiolate, sessile above. Petioles of the basal leaves to +20cm long, with a very narrow adaxial groove, mostly glabrous but with some hairs in the groove. Blades to +/-20cm long, +/-8cm broad, scabrous above and below, greyish because of dense hairs below, elliptic-lanceolate, shallow serrate, acute, tapering slightly at the base. Cauline leaves sessile, quickly reduced upward, shallow crenate-serrate, densely pubescent (with a greyish cast), scabrous, those in the middle of the stem oblanceolate. Leaves in the apical 1/3 of the stem reduced to bracts, ovate to orbicular.
Inflorescence - Terminal corymbiform arrangement of flowerheads. Peduncles densely hispidulous. Each division of the inflorescence subtended by a small foliaceous bract.
Involucre - To +8mm long (tall), 5mm in diameter, cylindric. Phyllaries imbricate, appressed, unequal, the longest to 6mm long, 2mm broad, rounded at the apex, greenish (mostly at the apex), scarious below, with a green midrib, glabrous internally and externally, with ciliolate margins, oblong.
Ray flowers - Flowers 8-10 per flowerhead, fertile, pistillate. Corolla tube 4mm long, glabrous, yellowish. Ligule 4mm long, 2mm broad, yellow, glabrous or with a few sparse hairs, rounded at the apex. Style purplish, glabrous, thin, 5mm long, bifurcate. Stigmas 1mm long. Pappus of capillary bristles, white, 5mm long. Bristles antrorse barbellate. Achene green in flower, 2.2mm long, ribbed, glabrous.
Disk flowers - Disk corollas yellow, contracted and thin in the basal 2/3, expanded in the upper 1/3, 5mm long, 5-lobed, glabrous or with a few small hairs. Lobes acute, spreading, 1.1mm long. Stamens 5, adnate in the basal 1/3 of the corolla tube. Filaments glabrous, compressed, thin, glabrous, yellowish. Anthers yellow, 2.5mm long, connate around the style, partially to wholly exserted, acute at the apices. Style exserted, purplish, bifurcate for about 1mm. Stigmas erect (mostly). Pappus and achenes as the ray flowers.
Flowering - August - October.
Habitat - Prairies, glades, rocky open ground, thickets, borders of wet meadows.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This showy species can be found throughout most of Missouri but is apparently absent in the southeast corner of the state. The plant is easy to identify in the field because of its big basal leaves and large, showy flowerheads. It has larger flowerheads than any other Solidago species in Missouri. This is a characteristic plant of prairies and is certainly worthy of cultivation as it is drought tolerant and requires little care.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Family - Asteraceae
Stems - To -1m tall, branching in upper 1/2, herbaceous, erect, short pubescent, minutely winged (ribbed) from leaf bases, from rhizomes.
Leaves - Alternate, sessile, linear, 3-5 nerved, entire, slightly scabrous, acute to acuminate, to +/-10cm long, 8-9mm broad, reduced upward by inflorescence, glandular-punctate (use a lens to see).
Inflorescence - Corymbose arrangement of flower heads. Peduncles winged and pubescent to strigose on wing margins.
Involucre - 5mm tall, 2mm in diameter, cylindrical. Phyllaries imbricate, glabrous, yellowish and often with green apices (viewed with a lens you can see a yellow midvein in the green tip), linear, with scarious margins. Innermost phyllaries to 3.1mm long, .6mm broad.
Ray flowers - Fertile. Ligule yellow, to -3mm long, .5mm broad, glabrous. Achene (in flower) white, .5mm long, pubescent. Pappus of capillary bristles.
Disk flowers - 15-20 per flowerhead. Corolla tube to 2mm long, pale yellow, 5-lobed. Lobes yellow, 1.3mm long, acute, glabrous. Stamens 5, adnate 1/2 way up corolla tube. Anthers yellow, connate around style, included, 1.4mm long. Style bifurcate, just exserted beyond corolla lobes. Achene pubescent, .7mm long (in flower). Pappus of capillary bristles to 3.4mm long.
Flowering - August - October.
Habitat - Prairies, fields, railroads.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - graminifolia means "grass-leaf" and indeed the leaves on this species are thin and long, much like grass blades. This species is most common in the northeastern 1/4 of Missouri but is scattered in counties through the upper 1/2 of the state.
Steyermark gives two varieties for the plant. Variety media (Greene) Harris, is pictured and described above. Variety nuttallii (Greene) Fern., has leaves which are typically pubescent and more broad than the previous variety.
Stems - To -1m tall, branching in upper 1/2, herbaceous, erect, short pubescent, minutely winged (ribbed) from leaf bases, from rhizomes.
Leaves - Alternate, sessile, linear, 3-5 nerved, entire, slightly scabrous, acute to acuminate, to +/-10cm long, 8-9mm broad, reduced upward by inflorescence, glandular-punctate (use a lens to see).
Inflorescence - Corymbose arrangement of flower heads. Peduncles winged and pubescent to strigose on wing margins.
Involucre - 5mm tall, 2mm in diameter, cylindrical. Phyllaries imbricate, glabrous, yellowish and often with green apices (viewed with a lens you can see a yellow midvein in the green tip), linear, with scarious margins. Innermost phyllaries to 3.1mm long, .6mm broad.
Ray flowers - Fertile. Ligule yellow, to -3mm long, .5mm broad, glabrous. Achene (in flower) white, .5mm long, pubescent. Pappus of capillary bristles.
Disk flowers - 15-20 per flowerhead. Corolla tube to 2mm long, pale yellow, 5-lobed. Lobes yellow, 1.3mm long, acute, glabrous. Stamens 5, adnate 1/2 way up corolla tube. Anthers yellow, connate around style, included, 1.4mm long. Style bifurcate, just exserted beyond corolla lobes. Achene pubescent, .7mm long (in flower). Pappus of capillary bristles to 3.4mm long.
Flowering - August - October.
Habitat - Prairies, fields, railroads.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - graminifolia means "grass-leaf" and indeed the leaves on this species are thin and long, much like grass blades. This species is most common in the northeastern 1/4 of Missouri but is scattered in counties through the upper 1/2 of the state.
Steyermark gives two varieties for the plant. Variety media (Greene) Harris, is pictured and described above. Variety nuttallii (Greene) Fern., has leaves which are typically pubescent and more broad than the previous variety.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Family - Asteraceae
Stems - To +2m tall, erect, stout, terete, puberulent, to +/-1cm in diameter at the base, from slender rhizomes, typically branching in the apical 1/2, herbaceous.
Leaves - Alternate, sessile or on petioles to +/-2mm long, many on the stem, widest in the middle portion of the stem. Basal leaves absent at anthesis. Blades to 15cm long, +2cm broad, shallow serrate, pubescent abaxially, scabrous adaxially from antrorse strigillose hairs or glabrous, green above, lighter below, linear-lanceolate.
Inflorescence - Terminal pyramidal paniculate inflorescence of many branches and flower heads. Inflorescence to +15cm broad , +20cm tall. Flower heads secund in few to many-flowered axillary panicles on the inflorescence branches. Each small group subtended by a linear bract. Each flower head subtended by a minute subulate bract. Bracts, peduncles, and branches of the inflorescence pubescent. Peduncles of each flower head to 1mm long.
Involucre - To 3-5mm tall, 1-1.5mm broad, light-green, pale yellow, or whitish. Phyllaries imbricate, linear, glabrous, 1-2mm long, .5mm broad.
Ray flowers - +/-5 per head, yellow, pistillate. Ligule yellow, glabrous, to 2mm long, .5mm broad, notched at the apex. Corolla tube to 3mm long, translucent-yellow, with a few translucent hairs at the apex. Style yellowish, bifurcate for +/-1mm, +3mm long, glabrous. Pappus white, uniseriate, of capillary bristles, antrorse barbellate, +/-3mm long. Achenes (in flower) retrorse pubescent. Mature achenes not seen.
Disk flowers - Flowers 1-3 per head, yellow, 5-lobed. Lobes spreading, linear-ovate to subulate, +/-1mm long, glabrous, yellow. Corolla tube +2mm long, glabrous externally and internally, pale yellow to whitish. Style 1, yellow, glabrous, exserted, to +/-3mm long, mostly undivided. Stamens 5. Anthers small, included, reddish, -1mm long, -.3mm broad. Filaments translucent, glabrous, -2mm long, adnate at the base of the corolla tube. Pappus as in the ray flowers.
Flowering - August - November.
Habitat - Fallow fields, prairies, bottoms, rocky outcrops, open woods, thickets, waste ground, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This is one the most common species of goldenrod in Missouri. The plant grows quite large ("altissima" means "tall") and can be seen along nearly every roadside of the state in the fall.
This species is in the group of tall Goldenrods which includes other similar species like S. gigantea Ait. and S. canadensis L.. These species have no basal rosettes at anthesis and have leaves which are largest in the central portion of the stem but are typically all similar in size. The best way to differentiate these species is vegetatively and Justin Thomas has written an excellent key to the Solidago species based on vegetative characters only. You can acquire a copy of this key in the 2003 issue of Missouriensis, a publication of the Missouri Native Plant Society.
S. altissima can be identified by its pubescent stems, three-nerved leaves, pyramid-shaped inflorescences, and small flowerheads, which are only about 3-5mm tall.
Stems - To +2m tall, erect, stout, terete, puberulent, to +/-1cm in diameter at the base, from slender rhizomes, typically branching in the apical 1/2, herbaceous.
Leaves - Alternate, sessile or on petioles to +/-2mm long, many on the stem, widest in the middle portion of the stem. Basal leaves absent at anthesis. Blades to 15cm long, +2cm broad, shallow serrate, pubescent abaxially, scabrous adaxially from antrorse strigillose hairs or glabrous, green above, lighter below, linear-lanceolate.
Inflorescence - Terminal pyramidal paniculate inflorescence of many branches and flower heads. Inflorescence to +15cm broad , +20cm tall. Flower heads secund in few to many-flowered axillary panicles on the inflorescence branches. Each small group subtended by a linear bract. Each flower head subtended by a minute subulate bract. Bracts, peduncles, and branches of the inflorescence pubescent. Peduncles of each flower head to 1mm long.
Involucre - To 3-5mm tall, 1-1.5mm broad, light-green, pale yellow, or whitish. Phyllaries imbricate, linear, glabrous, 1-2mm long, .5mm broad.
Ray flowers - +/-5 per head, yellow, pistillate. Ligule yellow, glabrous, to 2mm long, .5mm broad, notched at the apex. Corolla tube to 3mm long, translucent-yellow, with a few translucent hairs at the apex. Style yellowish, bifurcate for +/-1mm, +3mm long, glabrous. Pappus white, uniseriate, of capillary bristles, antrorse barbellate, +/-3mm long. Achenes (in flower) retrorse pubescent. Mature achenes not seen.
Disk flowers - Flowers 1-3 per head, yellow, 5-lobed. Lobes spreading, linear-ovate to subulate, +/-1mm long, glabrous, yellow. Corolla tube +2mm long, glabrous externally and internally, pale yellow to whitish. Style 1, yellow, glabrous, exserted, to +/-3mm long, mostly undivided. Stamens 5. Anthers small, included, reddish, -1mm long, -.3mm broad. Filaments translucent, glabrous, -2mm long, adnate at the base of the corolla tube. Pappus as in the ray flowers.
Flowering - August - November.
Habitat - Fallow fields, prairies, bottoms, rocky outcrops, open woods, thickets, waste ground, roadsides, railroads.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This is one the most common species of goldenrod in Missouri. The plant grows quite large ("altissima" means "tall") and can be seen along nearly every roadside of the state in the fall.
This species is in the group of tall Goldenrods which includes other similar species like S. gigantea Ait. and S. canadensis L.. These species have no basal rosettes at anthesis and have leaves which are largest in the central portion of the stem but are typically all similar in size. The best way to differentiate these species is vegetatively and Justin Thomas has written an excellent key to the Solidago species based on vegetative characters only. You can acquire a copy of this key in the 2003 issue of Missouriensis, a publication of the Missouri Native Plant Society.
S. altissima can be identified by its pubescent stems, three-nerved leaves, pyramid-shaped inflorescences, and small flowerheads, which are only about 3-5mm tall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Family - Brassicaceae
Stems - To 30cm tall, erect, glabrous, herbaceous, multiple from base, from taproot, fragrant.
Leaves - Mostly in a basal rosette, pinnately divided (pinnatifid), to +3.5cm long, 7mm broad. Divisions typically 3-lobed, glabrous, 13-14 pairs per leaf. Lobes acute.
Inflorescence - Terminal bracteate raceme, compact in flower, elongating in fruit to +7cm long. Pedicels to 2.5cm long(in flower), glabrous.
Flowers - Petals 4, yellow, glabrous, 1.3cm long, to 5mm broad at apex, spatulate to oblanceolate, emarginate at apex, glabrous. Stamens 6, erect, subtended by small green nectaries. Filaments to 6mm long, yellow, glabrous. Anthers 1.2mm long, yellow-orange. Ovary on small gynophore (to 1mm long), 3mm long, glabrous, green, narrowly ovoid. Style to -4mm long, greenish-yellow. Sepals 4, slightly gibbous at base, greenish at first but becoming yellow, glabrous, 5-6mm long, to 3mm broad, acute, entire. Silique erect, highly compressed, to +2cm long, +7mm broad, beaked by persistent style, glabrous, light green with darker margins.
Flowering - April - May.
Habitat - Glades, rocky prairies, waste ground.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This small, striking species can be found in a handful of west-central counties in the state. The plant can be found in large colonies and the brilliant yellow flowers light up their glade habitat. The plant is easy to I.D. in the field because of its pinnatifid leaves and striking flowers. S. aurea would make a magnificent garden subject in the right conditions were provided.
Stems - To 30cm tall, erect, glabrous, herbaceous, multiple from base, from taproot, fragrant.
Leaves - Mostly in a basal rosette, pinnately divided (pinnatifid), to +3.5cm long, 7mm broad. Divisions typically 3-lobed, glabrous, 13-14 pairs per leaf. Lobes acute.
Inflorescence - Terminal bracteate raceme, compact in flower, elongating in fruit to +7cm long. Pedicels to 2.5cm long(in flower), glabrous.
Flowers - Petals 4, yellow, glabrous, 1.3cm long, to 5mm broad at apex, spatulate to oblanceolate, emarginate at apex, glabrous. Stamens 6, erect, subtended by small green nectaries. Filaments to 6mm long, yellow, glabrous. Anthers 1.2mm long, yellow-orange. Ovary on small gynophore (to 1mm long), 3mm long, glabrous, green, narrowly ovoid. Style to -4mm long, greenish-yellow. Sepals 4, slightly gibbous at base, greenish at first but becoming yellow, glabrous, 5-6mm long, to 3mm broad, acute, entire. Silique erect, highly compressed, to +2cm long, +7mm broad, beaked by persistent style, glabrous, light green with darker margins.
Flowering - April - May.
Habitat - Glades, rocky prairies, waste ground.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This small, striking species can be found in a handful of west-central counties in the state. The plant can be found in large colonies and the brilliant yellow flowers light up their glade habitat. The plant is easy to I.D. in the field because of its pinnatifid leaves and striking flowers. S. aurea would make a magnificent garden subject in the right conditions were provided.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Family - Dryopteridaceae
Stems - Rhizomes scaly, horizontal, with fibrous roots, densely reddish-yellow pubescent, 3-4mm in diameter. Scales typically 5-6mm long.
Leaves - From 1-5cm behind the tip of the rhizome, densely clustered, narrowly lanceolate to oblong in outline, to +/-30cm long, 5-6cm broad. Petioles long (+/-15cm), darker brown at the base, greenish apically, with an adaxial groove, when cut transversely 2 vascular bundles are noticeable. Leaves 1-2 pinnate. Pinnae mostly alternate, at right angles to the rachis, typically bipinnatifid, glabrous, serrate.
Inflorescence - Sori originating from the lateral veins on the pinnae, globular, .3mm in diameter. The indusia originating from one side of the sorus, glabrous, small. Typically +/-15 sporangia per sorus.
Flowering - Spores produced April - July.
Habitat - Mesic and bottomland forests, rich soils of slopes, ravine bottoms, streambanks, sinkhole bottoms.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This springtime fern can be found throughout Missouri in the habitats mentioned above. It is the only member of its genus in Missouri to not grow from rock ledges or crevices. The plant typically wilts once the daytime temperatures start to really rise but plants can persist until late summer.
Stems - Rhizomes scaly, horizontal, with fibrous roots, densely reddish-yellow pubescent, 3-4mm in diameter. Scales typically 5-6mm long.
Leaves - From 1-5cm behind the tip of the rhizome, densely clustered, narrowly lanceolate to oblong in outline, to +/-30cm long, 5-6cm broad. Petioles long (+/-15cm), darker brown at the base, greenish apically, with an adaxial groove, when cut transversely 2 vascular bundles are noticeable. Leaves 1-2 pinnate. Pinnae mostly alternate, at right angles to the rachis, typically bipinnatifid, glabrous, serrate.
Inflorescence - Sori originating from the lateral veins on the pinnae, globular, .3mm in diameter. The indusia originating from one side of the sorus, glabrous, small. Typically +/-15 sporangia per sorus.
Flowering - Spores produced April - July.
Habitat - Mesic and bottomland forests, rich soils of slopes, ravine bottoms, streambanks, sinkhole bottoms.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This springtime fern can be found throughout Missouri in the habitats mentioned above. It is the only member of its genus in Missouri to not grow from rock ledges or crevices. The plant typically wilts once the daytime temperatures start to really rise but plants can persist until late summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Family - Aspleniaceae
Stems - Short scaly rhizomes, dark brown. With fibrous, dark roots.
Leaves - To 10cm long, pinnately divided twice or three times, green, glabrous. Pinnae alternate, 1-3cm long. Pinnules spatulate, erose or just toothed at the apical margin.
Inflorescence - Sori one to many on the abaxial surface of the pinnae, linear. Indusium attached along one side of the sori.
Flowers - No flowers produced. Sporangia black, with 32 spores each.
Flowering - Spores produced May - September.
Habitat - Dolomite and limestone bluffs, in cracks and holes in the rock.
Origin - Native to U.S. and Europe.
Other info. - This neat little fern can be found in the southeastern Ozark region of Missouri. The plant is very easy to ID in the field as nothing else looks like it and it has a very limited habitat. The species is, however, rarely seen by casual observers as it grows along high bluffs and on rocky outcrops.
This is a small plant which would look great in a shaded limestone rock garden.
Stems - Short scaly rhizomes, dark brown. With fibrous, dark roots.
Leaves - To 10cm long, pinnately divided twice or three times, green, glabrous. Pinnae alternate, 1-3cm long. Pinnules spatulate, erose or just toothed at the apical margin.
Inflorescence - Sori one to many on the abaxial surface of the pinnae, linear. Indusium attached along one side of the sori.
Flowers - No flowers produced. Sporangia black, with 32 spores each.
Flowering - Spores produced May - September.
Habitat - Dolomite and limestone bluffs, in cracks and holes in the rock.
Origin - Native to U.S. and Europe.
Other info. - This neat little fern can be found in the southeastern Ozark region of Missouri. The plant is very easy to ID in the field as nothing else looks like it and it has a very limited habitat. The species is, however, rarely seen by casual observers as it grows along high bluffs and on rocky outcrops.
This is a small plant which would look great in a shaded limestone rock garden.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月03日
1. ¿Qué es un injerto?
Consiste en unir dos partes de plantas distintas para que suelden y se queden como una única planta.
Al pie receptor se le llama patrón o portainjerto, es el que pone las raíces y parte del tallo. Sobre él va el injerto propiamente dicho. Los Cactus se injertan con facilidad unas especies con otras. Sin embargo, en las demás Plantas Crasas, es necesario que sean patrones e injertos compatibles entre sí. Generalmente, deben ser ambas del mismo género botánico o bien, especies muy cercanas.
Son típicos los injertos de Melocactus, Rebutia, Astrophytum, Echinocactus, Gymnocalycium, Mammillaria, Echinocereus...
2. ¿Qué utilidad tiene el injerto de Cactus ?
• Constituye otro método más de multiplicación aplicable a muchísimas plantas de este grupo, alternativo a las semillas, esquejes, hijuelos o división de mata.
• Los cactus de colores (rojo, rosa, anaranjado o amarillo) carecen de clorofila (pigmento verde) y por tanto, son incapaces de sobrevivir por sí mismos. Se recurre a injertarlos sobre un pie o portainjerto que les suministre el alimento. Por ejemplo, Lovibias amarillas, Gymnocalyciums de color rojo...
• Las plantas cristatas o cristaciones son unos Cactus arrugados, parecidos a cerebros; quizás los hayas visto a la venta. La explicación de sus extrañas formas no está del todo clara. Es raro que florezcan y den semillas, así que para propagarlos se esquejan o se injertan. Además, su crecimiento es más rápido injertado y la cristación no está en contacto con el substrato para evitar que se pudra.
Cristación
• Otra utilidad de los injertos es para salvar a una planta cuyo tallo o raíces se estén pudriendo. La solución: cortar el tallo e injertarlo sobre un pie sano. Se recomienda tener pies preparados por si hacen falta en cualquier momento: se pudren, un accidente, etc.
• Una especie de crecimiento lento injertada sobre un patrón vigoroso crecerá más deprisa. De esta manera se obtienen esquejes pronto o se acelera la floración y con ello la obtención de semillas. Por último, los productores los podrán vender antes.
• Los patrones o portainjertos confieren a algunos tipos de cactus mayor resistencia a la pudrición y al frío.
• Por estética, sobre un pie alto se puede injertar una especie que tienda a crecer caída.
3. Portainjertos
Las especies más indicadas como portainjertos en Cactáceas son:
* Hylocereus (Hylocereus undatus...): los más utilizados. La razón es porque crecen rápidamente y aguantan los suelos húmedos. Su inconveniente es que a los pocos años muere y con él el injerto. No duran más allá de 5 años. Se puede ir re-injertando cada 2-3 años.
* Echinopsis pachanoi, E.brigdesii, E.macrogonus, E.peruvianus son pies más duraderos, es decir, para tener un injerto largo tiempo sobre ellos.
* Trichocereus pachanoi, T. spachianus, T. macrogonus, T. fulvianus o T. pasacana: son cactus columnares muy indicados para aquellas especies que tienen que soportar climas fríos y un substrato seco en invierno.
* Myrtillocactus geometrizans también es bueno.
* Echinopsis multiplex y otros Echinopsis: todos son de fácil cultivo y tienen a su favor que producen gran cantidad de hijuelos que, a su vez, también pueden utilizarse como portainjertos.
4. Epoca para injertar
La mejor época para efectuar injertos es primavera y principios de verano. En pleno verano y hasta principios de otoño también se pueden hacer, pero es peor fecha.
El invierno es la estación más desfavorable, puesto que se necesita que las especies estén en crecimiento activo para soldarse.
Si cuentas con un invernadero o interior para controlar la luz y la temperatura (calefacción), se amplían las posibilidades.
5. Pasos para injertar Cactus
1. Una semana antes de efectuar el injerto, prepara las plantas a utilizar aportando un poco más de abono y riego. La idea es que estén un poco hinchadas y sea más fácil realizarlo.
2. El portainjerto, el que hace de receptor, debe ser de crecimiento reciente, de la misma temporada. Si utilizaras un portainjerto viejo, al secarse la parte carnosa, el esqueleto queda sobresaliendo de la planta y expulsa el injerto.
Por la misma razón que el portainjertos, la planta que vaya a injertarse no conviene que sea muy vieja, es conveniente que a lo sumo tenga 2 ó 3 años.
3. Para efectuar los cortes puedes emplear un cuchillo, un cúter, un bisturí, hojas de cuchillas de afeitar desechables... Debe estar perfectamente afilado y esterilizado. No lo metas en el microondas, déjalo en lejía diluida en agua (1 parte de lejía por 9 de agua) durante un día para esterilizarlo.
4. Haz un corte horizontal en el portainjerto y inclinados en cada costilla. Si lo haces en horizontal por todo, al secarse, la zona central se encoge y puede expulsar al injerto. Mira la 2ª foto, arriba.
5. Si no quieres que se vea el portainjertos corta a sólo 4 ó 5 cm por encima del sustrato. En posteriores transplantes vas tapando esos pocos centímetros con substrato hasta que quede totalmente oculto en la maceta.
6. Al contrario que ocurre con el esquejado, NO que hay que dejar secar los cortes, sino actuar con rapidez, con los tejidos frescos.
7. Comprueba que las superficies de unión están perfectamente limpias. Si alguna de las superficies se contamina corta una capa delgada para evitar riesgos.
8. Ahora viene un punto fundamental. Ambas piezas debes unirlas de tal manera que queden los haces vasculares superpuestos como mínimo en un punto.
El injerto debes colocarlo en posición ligeramente desplazada a un lado como se indica en el dibujo de la derecha. NO TOTALMENTE CENTRADOS, aunque te parezca haberlo visto así. Hay que cruzar las circunferencias que forman los vasos para que interseccionen, generalmente en 2 puntos. El desplazamiento es muy ligero y casi no se nota.
9. Une las dos partes presionando para que el contacto sea bueno y evitar la presencia de aire o alguna impureza en la unión. 10. Sujeta firmemente con unas gomas elásticas, una cinta con una almohadilla de gomaespuma en el centro, una liga, etc.
11. Mantén la planta en sitio cálido y a la sombra y riega sin pasarte.
12. Si todo va bien, a los 15 días aproximadamente, el injerto ya habrá soldado y puedes quitar las gomas tensoras.
13. Si el injerto falla, la solución es volver a injertarlos cortando un poco más abajo el pie.
14. Ten en cuenta que una planta injertada es más débil. No soportan demasiadas horas de insolación y por ello necesitan una situación más protegida durante las horas de más sol.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月03日
Las principales plagas de las plantas Crasas son Cochinillas, Ácaros, Orugas, Gusanos de suelo y Caracoles, pero hay otras que también se pueden presentar esporádicamente. Esta es la lista completa:
¿Cómo prevenir las plagas?
1. Compra plantas sanas. Ten en cuenta que los productores de Cactus y demás Suculentas, para reducir costes, hacen pocos tratamientos fitosanitarios. Debes fijarte en lo siguiente:
Si en la piel ves zonas rojizas puede ser por ataques de Ácaros.
Si aprecias una especie de algodón, es Cochinilla algodonosa.
Si sacas la planta de la maceta (esto será factible cuando compres ejemplares pequeños) y las raíces presentan manchas blancas, puede ser Cochinilla de raíz. No lo confundas con residuos de cal del agua. Los ejemplares grandes los puedes inspeccionar cuando los vayas a plantar y si está infectado, descambiarlo o no volver a comprar en ese lugar.
2. Inspecciona las plantas durante el año con regularidad. Por ejemplo, gusanos o caracoles pueden acabar con una rápido.
3. Puedes hacer tratamientos preventivos para plagas como Cochinilla u hongos a las plantas Crasas del jardín. Uno en primavera, otro en verano y el tercero en otoño. Emplea productos sistémicos para que penetren en los tejidos del vegetal y el insecto al comer se envenene.
4. Si la plaga o el hongo ya se ha presentado, haz un tratamiento cada 10-15 días con el producto adecuado.
5. Los fitosanitarios que se pulverizan en verano, con el calor, se evaporan en parte, por lo que se recomienda hacerlo a ultima hora de la tarde y añadirle algún tipo de aceite fijador para que se prolongue su acción.
6. Son preferibles los productos sistémicos a los de contacto porque protegen internamente a la planta y no pierden efectividad por el riego al no ser arrastados por el agua.
Plagas de cactus y otras suculentas
• Cochinillas (Saissetia spp., Chionaspis spp., etc.)
Las Cochinillas son bastante frecuentes en plantas Crasas y Cactus. Distinguimos las que atacan la parte aérea y las que atacan a las raíces.
Las Cochinillas algodonosas (Pseudococcus spp.) producen una secreción semejante al algodón que las protege.
Para prevenir las Cochinillas, un tratamiento en primavera y otro en otoño.
Una vez detectada la plaga haz dos pulverizaciones con un intervalo de 15 días con Folithion o Baytroid (Bayer), Cuprosán (Sandoz). Si no remite, insiste.
• Cochinillas algodonosas de raíz (Rhizoecus spp.)
Para detectar Cochinillas que parasitan las raíces es necesario sacar la planta de la maceta para inspeccionar el cepellón y descubrir un algodoncillo blanco. Exteriormente se manifiesta en que la planta no crece. Si alguna planta ves que no ha crecido al terminar la primavera, comprueba si en las raíces tiene cochinillas.
El control consiste en sumergir la maceta durante 20 ó 30 minutos en una mezcla de agua con insecticidas que contengan alguna de estas materias activas: Diazinón o Folithión (Actellic 50E o Folithion 50 EL).
• Orugas
Existen multitud de larvas de insectos que pueden dañar las plantas Suculentas. Los de acción aérea suelen actuar de noche, no gustan del sol. Rocía las plantas con algún insecticida. Por ejemplo, los productos para Cochinillas anteriores también matan orugas.
• Gusanos de suelo
Gusano blanco
Las larvas que comen raíces son difíciles de detectar y combatir. Para macetas compra sustratos en sacos limpios y en el suelo aplica un insecticida para suelos.
• Caracoles y babosas
Aparecen con las lluvias o el riego y a veces, por las noches. Prefieren las zonas jóvenes de los Cactus o los brotes tiernos de las Suculentas.
Se controlan con insecticidas que poseen las materias activas Metaldehido o Metiocarb. Peparte por las macetas o el suelo el producto. Hay que tener en cuenta que con los riegos las bolitas de Metaldehido se van disolviendo hasta desaparecer por lo que hay que reponer periódicamente. Una forma ecológica es disponer en el suelo recipientes con cerveza que los atrae y donde se ahogarán o donde los puedes recoger a mano.
• Acaros (Tetranychus urticae, Tarsonemus pallidus y otros)
La Araña roja es el ácaro más común (Tetranychus urticae).
Los ácaros son difíciles de ver a simple vista. Si miras con una lupa puedes ver unas arañitas corretear. Producen con sus picaduras un aspecto plomizo, apagado, manchas marrones o amarillentas y empiezan a contraerse con malformaciones. También se pueden detectar finas telarañas entre las espinas.
Control: Acaricida KB (Kraft), Acaricida Araña roja (Asocoa), Acaricida (Compo), etc.
OTRAS PLAGAS
Pulgones
Los pulgones son raros en las plantas Crasas. Por lo general aparecen en las que tienen hojas en roseta (Aeonium, Echeveria,...). Se eliminan fácilmente con insecticida.
Mosca blanca (Trialeurodes vaporarorium)
Se da principalmente en las plantas con hojas y no es nada frecuente en Cactus.
Nematodos
Son gusanos microscópicos que afectan a las raíces, provocando unos bultos característicos. Se puede intentar controlar extrayendo la planta, recortando sus raíces que se vean afectadas y volviendo a plantar en tierra limpia o sustrato.
Saltamontes
Gracias a su capacidad de volar pueden aparecer en cualquier momento, pudiendo devorar total o parcialmente las plantas.
Roedores
Son muy aficionados a ciertas especies. Roen, por ejemplo, del género Sedum. Pueden destruir a la planta en el primer ataque.
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