文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
The Aeonium genus includes about 35 succulent plants, mostly hailing from the Canary Islands. Members of the Crassulaceae family, these generally follow the growth recommendations for most succulents: lots of light, perfect drainage, and not too much water. Like other succulents, these are also highly prized for their beautiful foliage. On the most popular variety, the leaves are held on a nearly bare branch and grow in attractive rosettes that turn a deep, burgundy red in the summer time.
They are not especially common in cultivation, and if do see one, it's likely to be an immature plant. When they are young, it's easy to confuse Aeoniums with the closely related Echeverias, which are much more common in the nursery trade. It's easier, however, to tell adult plants with adequate light as the most popular species offer their spectacular leaf coloring.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like plenty of bright light, but dislike intense direct light, especially in the summer. These plants are not very tolerant of heat, so try to avoid locations where they are exposed to harmful direct heat radiation, whether from the sun or a light.
Water: When grown in containers, Aeonium like a regular supply of moisture during the growing season, which will typically be in the summer time. It's best to let the plants dry slightly between waterings, but because Aeonium have small roots, they are a bit less drought tolerant than other succulents and appreciate a steady supply of light water with good drainage.
Fertilizer: A typical cactus fertilizer can help them look their best, especially in older plants where the potting media is getting older and lost some of its nutrients.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect. Cactus soils allow more latitude with watering because they hold less water, but regular potting soils can also be used.
Propagation
Many kinds of Aeonium do not clump as freely as more familiar succulents, which partially explains why they are less common in the trade (propagation is somewhat harder). However, they do root readily from leaf cuttings. Take a single leaf, allow it to dry out slightly, then place it in a seedling potting soil and keep barely moist and warm. New growth will eventually emergy. In some varieties, it's only possible to propagate from seed; this is more typical of the plants that do not branch but grow only single rosettes.
Repotting
These will not need frequent repotting. They are usually weakly rooted, so when you're repotting, be careful not to damage the roots or fragile leaves. Repot in the beginning of the growing season and keep in a warm, bright place until new growth begins to emerge.
Varieties
Collectors enjoy finding rarer Aeoniums, which grow in fantastic leaf forms and colors. Here are a few types of Aeonium that you might see:
A. arboreum. A fairly common species with mint green colored rosettes and branching growth habitate. This plant grows up to 5 feet and is easily propagated from leaf or branch cuttings. It has been extensively hybridized.
A. arboreum 'Atropurpureum'. This variety of the A. arboreum features the same green leaves that transition to purple or burgendy when exposed to sunlight. This is a very beautiful and relatively common Aeonium, compared to some of the more esoteric plants.
A arboreum 'Zwartkop.' Similar to the other two varieties, with the exception being that its leaves are dark purple and almost black. This plant is exceptionally beautiful when grown in masses.
Grower's Tips:
Aeonium are wonderful succulents that can really add visual interest to a succulent collection. They are relatively cold and heat sensitive, however, and do best in a faily temperate range. The same is true for watering: they dislike intense droughts or too much water. Ideally, Aeonium thrive in a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and mild summers, and regular but not overwhelming water. Aeonium is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
They are not especially common in cultivation, and if do see one, it's likely to be an immature plant. When they are young, it's easy to confuse Aeoniums with the closely related Echeverias, which are much more common in the nursery trade. It's easier, however, to tell adult plants with adequate light as the most popular species offer their spectacular leaf coloring.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like plenty of bright light, but dislike intense direct light, especially in the summer. These plants are not very tolerant of heat, so try to avoid locations where they are exposed to harmful direct heat radiation, whether from the sun or a light.
Water: When grown in containers, Aeonium like a regular supply of moisture during the growing season, which will typically be in the summer time. It's best to let the plants dry slightly between waterings, but because Aeonium have small roots, they are a bit less drought tolerant than other succulents and appreciate a steady supply of light water with good drainage.
Fertilizer: A typical cactus fertilizer can help them look their best, especially in older plants where the potting media is getting older and lost some of its nutrients.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect. Cactus soils allow more latitude with watering because they hold less water, but regular potting soils can also be used.
Propagation
Many kinds of Aeonium do not clump as freely as more familiar succulents, which partially explains why they are less common in the trade (propagation is somewhat harder). However, they do root readily from leaf cuttings. Take a single leaf, allow it to dry out slightly, then place it in a seedling potting soil and keep barely moist and warm. New growth will eventually emergy. In some varieties, it's only possible to propagate from seed; this is more typical of the plants that do not branch but grow only single rosettes.
Repotting
These will not need frequent repotting. They are usually weakly rooted, so when you're repotting, be careful not to damage the roots or fragile leaves. Repot in the beginning of the growing season and keep in a warm, bright place until new growth begins to emerge.
Varieties
Collectors enjoy finding rarer Aeoniums, which grow in fantastic leaf forms and colors. Here are a few types of Aeonium that you might see:
A. arboreum. A fairly common species with mint green colored rosettes and branching growth habitate. This plant grows up to 5 feet and is easily propagated from leaf or branch cuttings. It has been extensively hybridized.
A. arboreum 'Atropurpureum'. This variety of the A. arboreum features the same green leaves that transition to purple or burgendy when exposed to sunlight. This is a very beautiful and relatively common Aeonium, compared to some of the more esoteric plants.
A arboreum 'Zwartkop.' Similar to the other two varieties, with the exception being that its leaves are dark purple and almost black. This plant is exceptionally beautiful when grown in masses.
Grower's Tips:
Aeonium are wonderful succulents that can really add visual interest to a succulent collection. They are relatively cold and heat sensitive, however, and do best in a faily temperate range. The same is true for watering: they dislike intense droughts or too much water. Ideally, Aeonium thrive in a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and mild summers, and regular but not overwhelming water. Aeonium is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月28日
Is your knowledge of succulent plants based on that dusty jade plant in the office corner? The popularity of succulent plants has exploded in recent years, due not only to the low care requirements of these sun lovers, but also because of the diversity these fascinating plants. Special anatomical adaptations and colors make some succulents look like they belong more on another planet than on our windowsill. Here are ten unusual succulents that will add personality and distinction to your garden or houseplant collection.
1.Mexican Hens and Chicks 'Topsy Turvy'
The Echeveria genus of succulents, also known as Mexican hens and chicks, encompasses hundreds of rosette-forming plants native to Mexico, Central America and South America. The squared-off leaf tips of Echeveria 'Topsy Turvy' give it a sea urchin appearance and look handsome when planted in groups or combined with other succulents in a dish garden. Plant 'Topsy Turvy' in a chartreuse pot to show off its pale bluish-green leaves.
2.Plover Eggs
Sometimes called plover eggs plant, Adromischus cooperi sports pudgy little leaves dotted with purplish-grey speckles. The plants are especially sensitive to frost and must not be exposed to temperatures lower than 45 F. The speckles on plover egg plants will become more pronounced in bright sunlight. Plants are easy to propagate by leaf cuttings. Twist off a leaf from the stem and insert into moist cactus mix. Roots will form in four to six weeks.
3.Crinkle Leaf Plant
A South African relative of the kalanchoe, crinkle leaf plants (Adromischus cristatus) feature triangular leaves with lightly ruffled tips. Crinkle leaf plants tolerate a light frost, but grow best in a cool sunny spot with infrequent waterings. Red and white flowers may peek out between the two-inch leaves on mature plants.
4.Pebbled Tiger Jaws
Faucaria felina is the kind of plant that both attracts and repels the temptation to touch the strangely serrated leaves. In addition to the fascinating leaf form of pebbled tiger jaws, the plants may produce golden yellow flowers that nearly obscure the plant in fall and winter. Pebbled tiger jaw plants fill a niche for those who need a shade-tolerant succulent, but they also require more irrigation than most succulents. If the plants become too dry and the leaves separate from the stems, you can use them to start new plants if you act quickly.
5.Baseball Plant
Euphorbia obesa is just the plump character to beef up your indoor container garden. Its spherical shape adds heft and textural interest to plantings, but don't bear the spines one would expect on a round succulent. A weekly watering is pleasing to the baseball plant, and will help it to live a long life in your home. Petite flowers may appear on the top of the globe, giving you a signal that the plant is thriving.
1.Mexican Hens and Chicks 'Topsy Turvy'
The Echeveria genus of succulents, also known as Mexican hens and chicks, encompasses hundreds of rosette-forming plants native to Mexico, Central America and South America. The squared-off leaf tips of Echeveria 'Topsy Turvy' give it a sea urchin appearance and look handsome when planted in groups or combined with other succulents in a dish garden. Plant 'Topsy Turvy' in a chartreuse pot to show off its pale bluish-green leaves.
2.Plover Eggs
Sometimes called plover eggs plant, Adromischus cooperi sports pudgy little leaves dotted with purplish-grey speckles. The plants are especially sensitive to frost and must not be exposed to temperatures lower than 45 F. The speckles on plover egg plants will become more pronounced in bright sunlight. Plants are easy to propagate by leaf cuttings. Twist off a leaf from the stem and insert into moist cactus mix. Roots will form in four to six weeks.
3.Crinkle Leaf Plant
A South African relative of the kalanchoe, crinkle leaf plants (Adromischus cristatus) feature triangular leaves with lightly ruffled tips. Crinkle leaf plants tolerate a light frost, but grow best in a cool sunny spot with infrequent waterings. Red and white flowers may peek out between the two-inch leaves on mature plants.
4.Pebbled Tiger Jaws
Faucaria felina is the kind of plant that both attracts and repels the temptation to touch the strangely serrated leaves. In addition to the fascinating leaf form of pebbled tiger jaws, the plants may produce golden yellow flowers that nearly obscure the plant in fall and winter. Pebbled tiger jaw plants fill a niche for those who need a shade-tolerant succulent, but they also require more irrigation than most succulents. If the plants become too dry and the leaves separate from the stems, you can use them to start new plants if you act quickly.
5.Baseball Plant
Euphorbia obesa is just the plump character to beef up your indoor container garden. Its spherical shape adds heft and textural interest to plantings, but don't bear the spines one would expect on a round succulent. A weekly watering is pleasing to the baseball plant, and will help it to live a long life in your home. Petite flowers may appear on the top of the globe, giving you a signal that the plant is thriving.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月27日
1.Aeonium Plants
Aeoniums are odd looking succulent plants, with long, arching stems and rosettes of leaves that can often look so perfect, you might think they were fake. You'd be forgiven if you had to touch one to tell if it was real or rubbery plastic. There are about 35 species and most are native to the Canary Islands. They prefer a Mediterranean climate - not too hot, not too cold, not too dry.
The plants form fleshy rosettes and you will notice a similarity between Aeoniums and several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum, the popular Hens and Chicks. Aeoniums can be low growers or branching plants that grow into shrubs.
Leaves: Rosettes with somewhat rounded leaves. Stems can be short and stubby or long and branched. Leaves can be solid colors or variegated in white, yellow, red and green.
Flowers: Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The small, star-like flowers grow in clusters.
Botanical Name
Aeonium
Common Names
The genus Aeonium does not have a common name.
Hardiness Zones
Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 – 11, although they can withstand occasional frosts down to about 25̊ F (-4̊ C).
Sun Exposure
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to partial shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary greatly with variety. Some Aeonium varieties are low growing and get only a few inches tall, with rosettes an inch or two across. Others will branch out and grow 3 – 4 feet tall with plate-sized rosettes.
Bloom Period
Most Aeonium bloom in late winter or spring.
Using Aeonium in Your Garden Design
When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby. You can trim them if they get leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums make great container plants. You can get a closer look at their unique features in containers, and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them, although they do need regular water. Keep close tabs on them and use your judgment. Using a regular potting soil, rather than a fast draining soil for succulents, will help maintain their moisture level.
Suggested Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum – Widely available. Bright green rosettes on a branching stem.
Aeonium arboreum "Atropurpureum:: Maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum "Zwartkop": Very dark, almost black leaves.
Aeonium "Garnet": A hybrid of "Zwartkop", with red leaves.
Aeonium davidbramwelli "Sunburst'": Rosettes up to 1 foot across. Pale yellow, white and green stripes, with pink tips. Can handle some frost.
Aeonium haworthii "Tricolor" or "Kiwi": Easy growing. 4-inch flowers have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
2.Growing and Caring for Aeoniums
Aeonium Growing Tips
Water: Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss.
Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75 F.) and damp.
In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Soil: A sandy loam or regular potting mix is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeonium need some moisture. If you are growing them in containers, re-pot every 2 –3 years with fresh potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer, every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Caring for Your Aeonium Plants
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeonium will take care of themselves and actually thrive on neglect. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again or moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeonium have underdeveloped root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. They have the ability to produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants.
Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off, from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Most Aeoniums die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to periodically start new plants from cuttings. You can also start new plants from the seed.
Pests and Problems:
Few pests bother Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage and the occasional bird may take a bite.
Here are More Drought Tolerant Succulent Plants to Grow.
Aeoniums are odd looking succulent plants, with long, arching stems and rosettes of leaves that can often look so perfect, you might think they were fake. You'd be forgiven if you had to touch one to tell if it was real or rubbery plastic. There are about 35 species and most are native to the Canary Islands. They prefer a Mediterranean climate - not too hot, not too cold, not too dry.
The plants form fleshy rosettes and you will notice a similarity between Aeoniums and several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum, the popular Hens and Chicks. Aeoniums can be low growers or branching plants that grow into shrubs.
Leaves: Rosettes with somewhat rounded leaves. Stems can be short and stubby or long and branched. Leaves can be solid colors or variegated in white, yellow, red and green.
Flowers: Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The small, star-like flowers grow in clusters.
Botanical Name
Aeonium
Common Names
The genus Aeonium does not have a common name.
Hardiness Zones
Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 – 11, although they can withstand occasional frosts down to about 25̊ F (-4̊ C).
Sun Exposure
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to partial shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary greatly with variety. Some Aeonium varieties are low growing and get only a few inches tall, with rosettes an inch or two across. Others will branch out and grow 3 – 4 feet tall with plate-sized rosettes.
Bloom Period
Most Aeonium bloom in late winter or spring.
Using Aeonium in Your Garden Design
When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby. You can trim them if they get leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums make great container plants. You can get a closer look at their unique features in containers, and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them, although they do need regular water. Keep close tabs on them and use your judgment. Using a regular potting soil, rather than a fast draining soil for succulents, will help maintain their moisture level.
Suggested Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum – Widely available. Bright green rosettes on a branching stem.
Aeonium arboreum "Atropurpureum:: Maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum "Zwartkop": Very dark, almost black leaves.
Aeonium "Garnet": A hybrid of "Zwartkop", with red leaves.
Aeonium davidbramwelli "Sunburst'": Rosettes up to 1 foot across. Pale yellow, white and green stripes, with pink tips. Can handle some frost.
Aeonium haworthii "Tricolor" or "Kiwi": Easy growing. 4-inch flowers have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
2.Growing and Caring for Aeoniums
Aeonium Growing Tips
Water: Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss.
Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75 F.) and damp.
In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Soil: A sandy loam or regular potting mix is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeonium need some moisture. If you are growing them in containers, re-pot every 2 –3 years with fresh potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer, every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Caring for Your Aeonium Plants
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeonium will take care of themselves and actually thrive on neglect. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again or moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeonium have underdeveloped root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. They have the ability to produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants.
Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off, from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Most Aeoniums die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to periodically start new plants from cuttings. You can also start new plants from the seed.
Pests and Problems:
Few pests bother Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage and the occasional bird may take a bite.
Here are More Drought Tolerant Succulent Plants to Grow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月27日
1.Agave Plants
Agave plants are best known as succulent plants with large leaves that end in spiny tips. At first glance, you probably wouldn’t call agave plants rosettes, although they are. So many of the common ones are spiny succulents, with leaves that jut out in often dangerous spikes. There is actually a lot of variety in the agave genus. There are the large, stiff specimens that can grow to 20 feet in diameter. There are also small dish-sized agaves, and agave plants with soft leaves and no spines, although most do have leaves that end in a sharp point.
Leaves: Agaves are all stemless, or nearly so, with strappy, succulent leaves that end in sharp points. Foliage tends toward a blue-green in hardier varieties and a gray-green in warm climate varieties. There are also some that are variegated with gold or white markings.
Flowers: When the plant matures, a tall, flower-stalk grows out of the plant’s center. The flowers are bell-shaped and long-lasting, in shades of white, yellow and green. For most agave species, once the flowers produce the berry seed pods, the plant dies.
Botanical Name
Agave
Common Names
Agave plants are generally referred to as agaves. Agave americana as the Century Plant and that common name is sometimes confusingly used for all species of agave.
Cold Hardiness Zones
Most agave plants are not frost-hardy, but there are some, like Agave parryi, that are reliably perennial to USDA Hardiness Zone 5. However, the majority of them are only hardy in USDA Zones 8 or 9 and up.
Light Exposure
Agave plants need a spot in full sun to partial shade. The hotter the climate, the more shade they can handle.
Mature Size Of Agave Plants
There is a lot of variety in the size of agave plants. They can mature from a few inches tall to 20+ feet in diameter.
Agave Bloom Period
Agaves are grown for their dramatic foliage, not their flowers. That's a good thing because they bloom only once when they are fully mature. That can be anywhere from 5 to 40 years. Agave plants tend to bloom earlier in cultivation than they would in the wild. Most plants die after flowering, however, there are usually small offset plants at the base that can be replanted.
Garden Design Tips for Agave Plants
One large agave is all that is needed to make a sculptural focal point. Just make sure there is plenty of room to walk around it, so no one gets stabbed.
They can also make a nice border grouping, either by planting several of the same species or a tapestry of different varieties. They are textural and sculptural and make a vivid contrast with other plants. Pairing them with ornamental grasses softens their hard edges.
In warm climates, agaves are popular around pools and patios. Their leaves don’t brown and drop frequently and they stay attractive all year. A spineless variety, like the Foxtail Agave (Agave attenuata), is a safe bet around heavily used areas.
Smaller agave plants are excellent for containers, indoor or out.
Suggested Agave Varieties
Agave attenuata - A popular spineless variety also known as the Foxtail or Dragon-Tree Agave. Grows about 4 - 5 feet tall and a bit wider.
Agave parviflora - Leaves have white, graphic markings and curling filaments that give it a hairy look. It only gets about 6 inches tall and blooms in 6 - 8 years with green flowers on a 4 - 6 ft. spike.
Agave tequilana azul - Weber's Blue Agave is used to make a tequila, in Jalisco, Mexico, but it is also a very attractive garden plant, reaching upwards of 6 ft. tall and flowering in 6 - 8 years with a 15 ft. spike of yellow blooms.
Agave victoria-reginae - As the plant matures, the broad leaves cup inward, forming a dome. Reaches a height of about 12 inches. Cream flowers appear in 20 - 30 years
2.Growing and Caring for Agave
Agave Growing Tips
Agaves thrive on neglect. They grow quickly and remain attractive all year. Here are some tips for getting your agave plants established.
Propagation: Since it can take years for an agave plant to produce seed, most are propagated by offsets or tissue culture.
Soil: Agave will tolerate any well-draining soil, but their preference is rocky or sandy soil. They are not particular about soil pH.
Water: Although mature plants are very drought tolerant, when you are first establishing a plant outdoors, water it every 4 - 5 days for the first month. Then once a week, gradually spacing watering to every other week, depending on the weather.
Feeding: Don’t feed agave plants. Agaves seem to take care of themselves. Feeding encourages flowering, which you don’t want to happen too soon, since agave plants die off after flowering.
Growing Agave Plants in Containers
As with many succulent plants, agaves are shallow rooted. You can grow them in any size container, because they don’t need much soil. Use a well-draining soil. You can mix your own with something like 2 - 3 parts potting mix and 1 part gravel.
Re-pot container grown plants every couple of years, with new soil. Agaves can produce sucker roots. If the pot is overly crowded with roots, go ahead and cut the roots back to size. Give the plant a week or so to readjust, before you water it again.
Water about once a week in the summer and monthly in the winter. Wait until the surface of the soil is dry, before watering. In extremely dry conditions your agave may need more frequent water, but agaves are very forgiving.
More on growing agave as a houseplant.
Pests and Problems of Agave Plants
Agaves have very few problems. The agave snout weevil will burrow into the plant’s center to lay its eggs, causing the plant to collapse. Unfortunately, you probably won’t notice this until it’s too late. Remove the plant and check for any remaining grubs.
Agave plants are best known as succulent plants with large leaves that end in spiny tips. At first glance, you probably wouldn’t call agave plants rosettes, although they are. So many of the common ones are spiny succulents, with leaves that jut out in often dangerous spikes. There is actually a lot of variety in the agave genus. There are the large, stiff specimens that can grow to 20 feet in diameter. There are also small dish-sized agaves, and agave plants with soft leaves and no spines, although most do have leaves that end in a sharp point.
Leaves: Agaves are all stemless, or nearly so, with strappy, succulent leaves that end in sharp points. Foliage tends toward a blue-green in hardier varieties and a gray-green in warm climate varieties. There are also some that are variegated with gold or white markings.
Flowers: When the plant matures, a tall, flower-stalk grows out of the plant’s center. The flowers are bell-shaped and long-lasting, in shades of white, yellow and green. For most agave species, once the flowers produce the berry seed pods, the plant dies.
Botanical Name
Agave
Common Names
Agave plants are generally referred to as agaves. Agave americana as the Century Plant and that common name is sometimes confusingly used for all species of agave.
Cold Hardiness Zones
Most agave plants are not frost-hardy, but there are some, like Agave parryi, that are reliably perennial to USDA Hardiness Zone 5. However, the majority of them are only hardy in USDA Zones 8 or 9 and up.
Light Exposure
Agave plants need a spot in full sun to partial shade. The hotter the climate, the more shade they can handle.
Mature Size Of Agave Plants
There is a lot of variety in the size of agave plants. They can mature from a few inches tall to 20+ feet in diameter.
Agave Bloom Period
Agaves are grown for their dramatic foliage, not their flowers. That's a good thing because they bloom only once when they are fully mature. That can be anywhere from 5 to 40 years. Agave plants tend to bloom earlier in cultivation than they would in the wild. Most plants die after flowering, however, there are usually small offset plants at the base that can be replanted.
Garden Design Tips for Agave Plants
One large agave is all that is needed to make a sculptural focal point. Just make sure there is plenty of room to walk around it, so no one gets stabbed.
They can also make a nice border grouping, either by planting several of the same species or a tapestry of different varieties. They are textural and sculptural and make a vivid contrast with other plants. Pairing them with ornamental grasses softens their hard edges.
In warm climates, agaves are popular around pools and patios. Their leaves don’t brown and drop frequently and they stay attractive all year. A spineless variety, like the Foxtail Agave (Agave attenuata), is a safe bet around heavily used areas.
Smaller agave plants are excellent for containers, indoor or out.
Suggested Agave Varieties
Agave attenuata - A popular spineless variety also known as the Foxtail or Dragon-Tree Agave. Grows about 4 - 5 feet tall and a bit wider.
Agave parviflora - Leaves have white, graphic markings and curling filaments that give it a hairy look. It only gets about 6 inches tall and blooms in 6 - 8 years with green flowers on a 4 - 6 ft. spike.
Agave tequilana azul - Weber's Blue Agave is used to make a tequila, in Jalisco, Mexico, but it is also a very attractive garden plant, reaching upwards of 6 ft. tall and flowering in 6 - 8 years with a 15 ft. spike of yellow blooms.
Agave victoria-reginae - As the plant matures, the broad leaves cup inward, forming a dome. Reaches a height of about 12 inches. Cream flowers appear in 20 - 30 years
2.Growing and Caring for Agave
Agave Growing Tips
Agaves thrive on neglect. They grow quickly and remain attractive all year. Here are some tips for getting your agave plants established.
Propagation: Since it can take years for an agave plant to produce seed, most are propagated by offsets or tissue culture.
Soil: Agave will tolerate any well-draining soil, but their preference is rocky or sandy soil. They are not particular about soil pH.
Water: Although mature plants are very drought tolerant, when you are first establishing a plant outdoors, water it every 4 - 5 days for the first month. Then once a week, gradually spacing watering to every other week, depending on the weather.
Feeding: Don’t feed agave plants. Agaves seem to take care of themselves. Feeding encourages flowering, which you don’t want to happen too soon, since agave plants die off after flowering.
Growing Agave Plants in Containers
As with many succulent plants, agaves are shallow rooted. You can grow them in any size container, because they don’t need much soil. Use a well-draining soil. You can mix your own with something like 2 - 3 parts potting mix and 1 part gravel.
Re-pot container grown plants every couple of years, with new soil. Agaves can produce sucker roots. If the pot is overly crowded with roots, go ahead and cut the roots back to size. Give the plant a week or so to readjust, before you water it again.
Water about once a week in the summer and monthly in the winter. Wait until the surface of the soil is dry, before watering. In extremely dry conditions your agave may need more frequent water, but agaves are very forgiving.
More on growing agave as a houseplant.
Pests and Problems of Agave Plants
Agaves have very few problems. The agave snout weevil will burrow into the plant’s center to lay its eggs, causing the plant to collapse. Unfortunately, you probably won’t notice this until it’s too late. Remove the plant and check for any remaining grubs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月27日
Description: This wildflower is a summer annual about 3-6' tall, branching frequently. The somewhat succulent stems are light green, glabrous, and glaucous. The alternate leaves are up to 4" long and 2" across. They are ovate, hairless, and serrated along the margins; their slender petioles are up to 2" long. From theClose-up of Flowers axils of the middle to upper leaves, short racemes of 1-3 flowers are produced. Each flower is about 1–1¼" long, consisting of 5 petals, 3 sepals, and reproductive organs within the tubular corolla. This corolla is yellow, or less often cream-colored, and consists of the fusion (or near fusion) of the 5 petals and lower sepal. The lower sepal is petaloid; it defines the conical posterior of the corolla, which tapers to a tiny nectar spur that curls downward. The upper petal defines the upper lip (or hood) of the corolla, while the two lower petals form a pair of well-rounded lobes that are rather irregular and wrinkled. Two small lateral petals define the sides of the corolla opening, although they are difficult to see when the flowers are viewed from above. There are usually reddish brown spots within the interior of the corolla, although they are sometimes absent. The upper 2 sepals are light green and ovate in shape; they are located at the top of the corolla, rather than behind or underneath. Each flower dangles from a slender pedicel about ¾" long. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2-3 months. Each fertilized flower is replaced by an ellipsoid seedpod up to 2" long. This seedpod is broadest toward the middle, tapering toward its tips; it has several dark green lines along its length. As the seedpod ripens, it splits open and ejects the seeds. The root system consists of a shallow branching taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, wet to moist conditions, and soil that is loamy or mucky. Yellow Jewelweed also tolerates full sun, light shade, and mesic conditions (if it receives some protection from the afternoon sun). This species is a little more tolerant of dry conditions than Impatiens capensis (Orange Jewelweed). It grows rapidly from seed during the summer and can achieve an impressive size.
Range & Habitat: The native Yellow Jewelweed occurs occasionally in central and northern Illinois; it is less common or absent in the southern portion of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats include muddy borders along ponds and streams (especially in wooded areas), swamps, openings in moist deciduous woodlands, and soggy thickets. Sometimes this species is cultivated in gardens.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird and bumblebees; the latter are especially common visitors. The caterpillars of various moths feed on the foliage, including Euchlaena obtusaria (Obtuse Euchlaena), Spilosoma latipennis (Pink-Legged Tiger Moth), Trichodezia albovittata (White-Striped Black), and Xanthorhoe lacustrata (Toothed Brown Carpet). The large seeds are eaten by various gamebirds, including the Ruffed Grouse, Ring-Necked Pheasant, Greater Prairie Chicken, and Bobwhite Quail. The White-Footed Mouse also eats the seeds. White-Tail Deer browse on the foliage.
Photographic Location: The photographed plants were growing along the back alley of a residential area in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Yellow Jewelweed is closely related to the more common Impatiens capensis (Orange Jewelweed). It is very similar in appearance to the latter species, except that its flowers are yellow, rather than orange. The tubular corolla of Yellow Jewelweed is broader toward its posterior, and its 2 lower petals are divided at the base, rather than fused together. Both of these Jewelweeds have attractive foliage and large interesting flowers that bloom over an extended period of time.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, wet to moist conditions, and soil that is loamy or mucky. Yellow Jewelweed also tolerates full sun, light shade, and mesic conditions (if it receives some protection from the afternoon sun). This species is a little more tolerant of dry conditions than Impatiens capensis (Orange Jewelweed). It grows rapidly from seed during the summer and can achieve an impressive size.
Range & Habitat: The native Yellow Jewelweed occurs occasionally in central and northern Illinois; it is less common or absent in the southern portion of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats include muddy borders along ponds and streams (especially in wooded areas), swamps, openings in moist deciduous woodlands, and soggy thickets. Sometimes this species is cultivated in gardens.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird and bumblebees; the latter are especially common visitors. The caterpillars of various moths feed on the foliage, including Euchlaena obtusaria (Obtuse Euchlaena), Spilosoma latipennis (Pink-Legged Tiger Moth), Trichodezia albovittata (White-Striped Black), and Xanthorhoe lacustrata (Toothed Brown Carpet). The large seeds are eaten by various gamebirds, including the Ruffed Grouse, Ring-Necked Pheasant, Greater Prairie Chicken, and Bobwhite Quail. The White-Footed Mouse also eats the seeds. White-Tail Deer browse on the foliage.
Photographic Location: The photographed plants were growing along the back alley of a residential area in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Yellow Jewelweed is closely related to the more common Impatiens capensis (Orange Jewelweed). It is very similar in appearance to the latter species, except that its flowers are yellow, rather than orange. The tubular corolla of Yellow Jewelweed is broader toward its posterior, and its 2 lower petals are divided at the base, rather than fused together. Both of these Jewelweeds have attractive foliage and large interesting flowers that bloom over an extended period of time.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月27日
Description: This plant is a summer annual that becomes 2-5' tall, branching occasionally. The round stems are glabrous and succulent, pale green to pale reddish green, and somewhat translucent. They are rather fragile and break easily. The alternate leaves are up to 5" long and 2½" across, although they are usually about half this size. The leaves are ovate, thin-textured, and hairless. There are low broad teeth along their margins. While the stems are often shiny, the leaves have a dull upper surface. The slender petioles are up to 2" long and usually shorter than the blades of the leaves.
From the axils of the upper leaves, there occurs small clusters of 1-3 orange flowers. These flowers are held horizontally on drooping pedicels. Each flower is about 1" long and has a conical shape with upper and lower lips. There are 3 sepals and 5 petals (although this is difficult to discern). Two lateral sepals are small and membrananous; they are light green to light yellow and are located behind the upper lip. The third sepal forms the conical posterior of the flower, including the small nectar spur. This portion of the flower is typically light orange and shiny; the nectar spur usually bends forward to a position underneath the rest of the flower. The petals form the front of the flower and are usually dark orange with reddish streaks or brown dots. One petal forms the upper lip, which is curved upward, while 2 fused petals form the lower lip. The lower lip often is divided into 2 lobes and functions as a landing pad for visiting insects. There are also 2 smaller lateral petals between the upper and lower lips of the flower. A cluster of stamens with white anthers lies underneath the ovary near the upper lip. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall, and lasts about 2 months. There is no floral scent. During the fall, insignificant cleistogamous flowers form seed capsules with fertile seeds without any need for cross-pollination. These oblong seed capsules are divided into 5 sections, which split apart, flinging the large seeds a considerable distance. The root system consists of a shallow branching taproot. This plant often forms colonies by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to partial sun, wet to moist conditions, and a fertile soil with an abundance of organic material. Submergence of the roots by flood water is tolerated for up to 2 weeks without apparent ill-effects. Sometimes the leaves are affected by mildew late in the year. It is easy to start this plant from seed.
Range & Habitat: The native Orange Jewelweed is a common plant that occurs in most counties of Illinois; it is less common in the NW area of the state. Habitats include openings in moist woodlands, partially or lightly shaded floodplains along rivers, edges of woodland paths, swamps, seeps and fens, and roadside ditches. This species tolerates disturbance better than most wetland plants.
Faunal Associations: The flowers attract the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird and long-tongued bees, including bumblebees and honeybees. Swallowtail butterflies are less common visitors. These visitors seek nectar; many long-tongued bees also collect pollen. Sometimes bumblebees will steal nectar by chewing holes near the spur of the flower. Various smaller insects (e.g., Syrphid flies) will visit the same holes to steal nectar. The caterpillars of several moths feed on the foliage, including Euchlaena obtusaria (Obtuse Euchlaena), Spilosoma latipennis (Pink-Legged Tiger Moth), Trichodezia albovittata (White-Striped Black), and Xanthorhoe lacustrata (Toothed Brown Carpet). Upland gamebirds eat the large seeds, including the Ruffed Grouse, Ring-Necked Pheasant, Greater Prairie Chicken, and Bobwhite Quail. Among mammals, White-Tailed Deer browse on the foliage, while the White-Footed Mouse eats the seeds.
Photographic Location: A partially shaded roadside ditch along a woods near Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The attractive orange flowers glisten in the sunlight, hence the name 'Jewelweed.' The other Jewelweed in this genus is Impatiens pallida (Yellow Jewelweed). The latter has similar foliage, but its flowers are pale yellow. The Jewelweeds have a muciliginous sap that is supposed to soothe skin irritation caused by Poison Ivy and Stinging Nettle. This sap also has fungicidal properties and has been used to treat Athlete's Foot. The cultivated Impatiens of the horticultural industry have been introduced from such areas as East Africa and New Guinea. They rarely escape from cultivation and are not considered a significant threat to native habitats.
From the axils of the upper leaves, there occurs small clusters of 1-3 orange flowers. These flowers are held horizontally on drooping pedicels. Each flower is about 1" long and has a conical shape with upper and lower lips. There are 3 sepals and 5 petals (although this is difficult to discern). Two lateral sepals are small and membrananous; they are light green to light yellow and are located behind the upper lip. The third sepal forms the conical posterior of the flower, including the small nectar spur. This portion of the flower is typically light orange and shiny; the nectar spur usually bends forward to a position underneath the rest of the flower. The petals form the front of the flower and are usually dark orange with reddish streaks or brown dots. One petal forms the upper lip, which is curved upward, while 2 fused petals form the lower lip. The lower lip often is divided into 2 lobes and functions as a landing pad for visiting insects. There are also 2 smaller lateral petals between the upper and lower lips of the flower. A cluster of stamens with white anthers lies underneath the ovary near the upper lip. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall, and lasts about 2 months. There is no floral scent. During the fall, insignificant cleistogamous flowers form seed capsules with fertile seeds without any need for cross-pollination. These oblong seed capsules are divided into 5 sections, which split apart, flinging the large seeds a considerable distance. The root system consists of a shallow branching taproot. This plant often forms colonies by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to partial sun, wet to moist conditions, and a fertile soil with an abundance of organic material. Submergence of the roots by flood water is tolerated for up to 2 weeks without apparent ill-effects. Sometimes the leaves are affected by mildew late in the year. It is easy to start this plant from seed.
Range & Habitat: The native Orange Jewelweed is a common plant that occurs in most counties of Illinois; it is less common in the NW area of the state. Habitats include openings in moist woodlands, partially or lightly shaded floodplains along rivers, edges of woodland paths, swamps, seeps and fens, and roadside ditches. This species tolerates disturbance better than most wetland plants.
Faunal Associations: The flowers attract the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird and long-tongued bees, including bumblebees and honeybees. Swallowtail butterflies are less common visitors. These visitors seek nectar; many long-tongued bees also collect pollen. Sometimes bumblebees will steal nectar by chewing holes near the spur of the flower. Various smaller insects (e.g., Syrphid flies) will visit the same holes to steal nectar. The caterpillars of several moths feed on the foliage, including Euchlaena obtusaria (Obtuse Euchlaena), Spilosoma latipennis (Pink-Legged Tiger Moth), Trichodezia albovittata (White-Striped Black), and Xanthorhoe lacustrata (Toothed Brown Carpet). Upland gamebirds eat the large seeds, including the Ruffed Grouse, Ring-Necked Pheasant, Greater Prairie Chicken, and Bobwhite Quail. Among mammals, White-Tailed Deer browse on the foliage, while the White-Footed Mouse eats the seeds.
Photographic Location: A partially shaded roadside ditch along a woods near Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The attractive orange flowers glisten in the sunlight, hence the name 'Jewelweed.' The other Jewelweed in this genus is Impatiens pallida (Yellow Jewelweed). The latter has similar foliage, but its flowers are pale yellow. The Jewelweeds have a muciliginous sap that is supposed to soothe skin irritation caused by Poison Ivy and Stinging Nettle. This sap also has fungicidal properties and has been used to treat Athlete's Foot. The cultivated Impatiens of the horticultural industry have been introduced from such areas as East Africa and New Guinea. They rarely escape from cultivation and are not considered a significant threat to native habitats.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月26日
1.Crassula Plants
:Succulent plants offer low maintenance and diverse shapes and textures, both in the garden and indoors. Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well-known is Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates, it grows into a shrub.
Many other Crassula species are much smaller, including some miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder "What is that?" With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Botanical Name
Crassula spp.
Common Names
Because of the shapes and forms of their leaves, Crassula plants lend themselves to very descriptive common names. Crassula barklyi, the 'Rattlesnake Plant', looks like the tip of the snake's tail. Crassula argentea, shown here, is called ‘Living Coral’. Crassula perforata, with it's twirling leaves stacked one on top of another is known as 'String of Buttons'. This is an intriguing genus of plants.
Hardiness Zones
Most Crassula species are only reliably hardy in USDA Zones 9 - 10, but elsewhere you could bring them indoors for the winter. They won't get as large as plants grown outdoors, but they make great houseplants.
Sun Exposure
Full sun to partial shade. Most Crassula plants need some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color. A site with morning sun and afternoon shade would be perfect.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary with species and variety, from shrubs several feet tall to tiny specimens of a couple of inches.
Bloom Period
Spring and summer. Some varieties of Crassula have lovely flowers and others are insignificant. Many gardeners remove the flowers that are not particularly showy.
Design Tips for Crassula
The smaller Crassula are perfect container plants - low maintenance, evergreen and eye-catching. If you have the climate, the plants look terrific tucked into and hanging over walls.
Jade plants in their natural element will be one of the easiest to maintain plants in your garden. Their dark, glossy green color is a great foil for almost any flower color.
Suggested Crassula Varieties to Grow
There are so many to choose from, you may become a collector. Here are a few that might catch your eye.
Crassula "Morgan’s Beauty": Thick silver leaves dusted in white, with pretty pink late spring flowers. Grows about 8 inches wide.
Crassula erosula "Campfire'": Long branching leaves turn blazing red in winter. A clump former that grows about 1 ft. tall and spreads 3 ft. wide.
Crassula pellucida subsp. marginalis "Variegata": a flowing mass of heart-shaped leaves variegated in pink, green and creamy yellow. Nice in a hanging pot.
Crassula perforata: Known as the stacked Crassula, their leaves rotate around a central stem, giving them their common name, String of Buttons'.
2.Growing and Caring for Crassula
Crassula Growing Tips
Soil: Crassula plants need very well draining soil, but they are not particular about soil pH. Sandy or even rocky soil is fine.
Water: As succulents, they don't need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Feeding: Feed sparingly. You can give your plants a little organic fertilizer in mid-spring, as they start actively growing.
Propagation: Crassula plants are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings.
Caring for Your Crassula Plants
Crassula can be sensitive to temperature. Too hot and they will go dormant and drop their lower leaves. Too cold and they will simply pout, not doing much of anything. Other than that, they laugh off both neglect and abuse.
Stacking Crassulas send out suckers, which is really only a problem when grown in the ground. However they are slow growers and can be controlled with a little effort.
When plants start to get straggly or leggy, don't be afraid to cut them back.
Pests and Problems
Keep an eye out for the usual succulent pests: aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. The biggest problem is root rot and sparse watering will help avoid that.
:Succulent plants offer low maintenance and diverse shapes and textures, both in the garden and indoors. Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well-known is Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates, it grows into a shrub.
Many other Crassula species are much smaller, including some miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder "What is that?" With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Botanical Name
Crassula spp.
Common Names
Because of the shapes and forms of their leaves, Crassula plants lend themselves to very descriptive common names. Crassula barklyi, the 'Rattlesnake Plant', looks like the tip of the snake's tail. Crassula argentea, shown here, is called ‘Living Coral’. Crassula perforata, with it's twirling leaves stacked one on top of another is known as 'String of Buttons'. This is an intriguing genus of plants.
Hardiness Zones
Most Crassula species are only reliably hardy in USDA Zones 9 - 10, but elsewhere you could bring them indoors for the winter. They won't get as large as plants grown outdoors, but they make great houseplants.
Sun Exposure
Full sun to partial shade. Most Crassula plants need some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color. A site with morning sun and afternoon shade would be perfect.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary with species and variety, from shrubs several feet tall to tiny specimens of a couple of inches.
Bloom Period
Spring and summer. Some varieties of Crassula have lovely flowers and others are insignificant. Many gardeners remove the flowers that are not particularly showy.
Design Tips for Crassula
The smaller Crassula are perfect container plants - low maintenance, evergreen and eye-catching. If you have the climate, the plants look terrific tucked into and hanging over walls.
Jade plants in their natural element will be one of the easiest to maintain plants in your garden. Their dark, glossy green color is a great foil for almost any flower color.
Suggested Crassula Varieties to Grow
There are so many to choose from, you may become a collector. Here are a few that might catch your eye.
Crassula "Morgan’s Beauty": Thick silver leaves dusted in white, with pretty pink late spring flowers. Grows about 8 inches wide.
Crassula erosula "Campfire'": Long branching leaves turn blazing red in winter. A clump former that grows about 1 ft. tall and spreads 3 ft. wide.
Crassula pellucida subsp. marginalis "Variegata": a flowing mass of heart-shaped leaves variegated in pink, green and creamy yellow. Nice in a hanging pot.
Crassula perforata: Known as the stacked Crassula, their leaves rotate around a central stem, giving them their common name, String of Buttons'.
2.Growing and Caring for Crassula
Crassula Growing Tips
Soil: Crassula plants need very well draining soil, but they are not particular about soil pH. Sandy or even rocky soil is fine.
Water: As succulents, they don't need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Feeding: Feed sparingly. You can give your plants a little organic fertilizer in mid-spring, as they start actively growing.
Propagation: Crassula plants are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings.
Caring for Your Crassula Plants
Crassula can be sensitive to temperature. Too hot and they will go dormant and drop their lower leaves. Too cold and they will simply pout, not doing much of anything. Other than that, they laugh off both neglect and abuse.
Stacking Crassulas send out suckers, which is really only a problem when grown in the ground. However they are slow growers and can be controlled with a little effort.
When plants start to get straggly or leggy, don't be afraid to cut them back.
Pests and Problems
Keep an eye out for the usual succulent pests: aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. The biggest problem is root rot and sparse watering will help avoid that.
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求助
Ksturd11
2018年06月25日
Need ID. This is my first succulent and ive had him for almsot a year. He is quite small and hasnt dont much growing!
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Fion：Echeveria desmetiana De Smet（皮氏蓝石莲）🤓
Lucky Coyote：It looks like my echeveria pellucida, do it's leaves feel like peach fuzz?
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
There are over 10,000 succulent plants, which include cacti. Many are native to South Africa and Madagascar and the Caribbean. Succulent plants have thick, fleshy leaves, stems or roots. This is one of the ways they have adapted to dry conditions by taking advantage of whatever water is available and holding onto it for later use. When full of water, the leaves can appear swollen. When they are becoming depleted, the leaves will begin to look puckered.
Other water conserving features you may find in succulents are narrow leaves, waxy leaves, a covering of hairs or needles, reduced pores, or stomata, and ribbed leaves and stems, that can expand water holding capacity. Their functioning is fascinating, but most are also quite attractive, too. They are perfect for dry climates and periods of drought anywhere, but many are not cold hardy below USDA Zone 9. Even so, they can be grown as annuals or over-wintered indoors. Several make great houseplants. Grow them all year in containers and you can just move the whole thing in when the temperature drops.
General Succulent Care
Water: During the summer, allow the soil to dry out between waterings and then water so that the soil is soaked through, but not dripping wet. Don't let the roots sit in soggy or waterlogged soil.
In winter, most succulents will only need water every month or so. They are basically dormant. If your house is particularly dry, you may need to water more often. The leaves will pucker slightly and begin to look desiccated if they need water. But just as in the summer, don't leave the plants sitting is soggy soil.
Soil: In pots, use a chunky, fast draining soil. This is one group of plants that does not thrive in the traditional loamy garden mix. There are special potting mixes sold for succulents.
In the ground, most succulents like a slightly acidic soil pH (5.5 – 6.5). Add some organic matter to very sandy soils, to retain moisture long enough for the plants to take it up. In clay soils, raised beds are your best option.
Choosing Succulents
Below are some popular succulents that are generally easy to grow.
Other water conserving features you may find in succulents are narrow leaves, waxy leaves, a covering of hairs or needles, reduced pores, or stomata, and ribbed leaves and stems, that can expand water holding capacity. Their functioning is fascinating, but most are also quite attractive, too. They are perfect for dry climates and periods of drought anywhere, but many are not cold hardy below USDA Zone 9. Even so, they can be grown as annuals or over-wintered indoors. Several make great houseplants. Grow them all year in containers and you can just move the whole thing in when the temperature drops.
General Succulent Care
Water: During the summer, allow the soil to dry out between waterings and then water so that the soil is soaked through, but not dripping wet. Don't let the roots sit in soggy or waterlogged soil.
In winter, most succulents will only need water every month or so. They are basically dormant. If your house is particularly dry, you may need to water more often. The leaves will pucker slightly and begin to look desiccated if they need water. But just as in the summer, don't leave the plants sitting is soggy soil.
Soil: In pots, use a chunky, fast draining soil. This is one group of plants that does not thrive in the traditional loamy garden mix. There are special potting mixes sold for succulents.
In the ground, most succulents like a slightly acidic soil pH (5.5 – 6.5). Add some organic matter to very sandy soils, to retain moisture long enough for the plants to take it up. In clay soils, raised beds are your best option.
Choosing Succulents
Below are some popular succulents that are generally easy to grow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
The Rules for Growing Succulent Houseplants
No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Southern Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation.
The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF.
Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 F and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 F and 55 F.
Watering
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Under-watering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An under-watered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soil
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
The Rules for Growing Succulent Houseplants
No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Southern Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation.
The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF.
Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 F and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 F and 55 F.
Watering
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Under-watering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An under-watered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soil
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
4.Succulent Plants in Tea Cup
Succulents can look great in almost anything - from a very formal container to one that is quite casual. I put these succulent plants in a tea cup that I got at a yard sale. I bought the whole set for a couple of dollars and then drilled holes in the bottoms of the cups.
For succulent plants, good drainage is essential. If you let them sit in water, succulents will quickly rot, so using a fast draining potting mix, and putting holes in your containers is the easiest way to keep your plants healthy.
To drill holes in ceramics, you need a special drill bit and some patience. It takes awhile to get through ceramics, and you have to let the bit cool down so that the heat doesn't build up from the friction and shatter your cup.
Make sure to put your cup on a firm surface. You can place a rag or flat, thin sponge on a counter, or I like to drill outside, on the ground so I don't have to clean up the dust. It's a good idea to wear safety goggles when doing any drilling, but particularly with ceramics which can shatter.
After the holes are drilled, I cut a small piece of plastic window screening and put it over the holes, to keep the soil in and let the water out. You can also use paper towel or a coffee filter.
I then fill the cup, almost to the top, with a cacti and succulent potting mix, plant my succulents and gently water, giving enough moisture so that the soil is damp. I then let the soil in the cup settle and the succulent plants take root.
5.Artist's Succulent Pot
What makes this succulent pot work so well is the spectacular concrete vessel, made by California artist, Mary Martha Collins. Mary crafts each pot by hand and then applies one of many stunning colors as a patina. This dish style of pot works particularly well with succulents because it is relatively shallow and succulents have a shallow root system.
When planting succulents, I use a potting mix designed specifically for cactus and succulents, which I buy at a nursery.
I like the strong color of the pot which sets off the interesting colors of the succulent plants.
Because of careless over-watering, when I first planted this pot, some of the original plants died. I simply pulled them out and replaced them with new plants.
Step-by-step instructions for how to make this succulent garden.
6.Vintage Tea Cup with Mixed Succulent Plants
I love stuffing succulents in small containers. This vintage tea cup and saucer was found at a second hand store and cost a dollar. I used a ceramic bit on a drill to put several holes in the bottom of the cup, to insure the good drainage that succulents need. I then filled the cup with succulent and cactus potting mix and then packed it with a mix of succulents. I water it infrequently - letting the soil dry out between waterings - especially in the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
1.Agave in a Garden Pot
Succulent plants make great, easy container garden plants.
Succulent are one of my favorite container garden plants. They are low-maintenance, beautiful and they come in stunning colors, many different sizes, textures and shapes.
I am somewhat in awe of agaves. They are beautiful, striking and somewhat lethal, given their spikes, sharp tips and potentially toxic sap. Despite their seemingly hostile appearance they are fairly good-natured plants - not difficult to care for and tolerant of cool temperatures. Though they prefer hot, full sun, agaves will tolerate some shade.
P. Allen Smith uses agaves to great dramatic affect. Potted in large, dark containers, they punctuate the landscape and add a modern, sculptural sensibility as well as vertical interest.
2.Succulents on the Half Shell
These clamshells are packed full of succulent plants. They can be used for table decorations and make great house presents. You can use a mix of succulent plants, or use one type. These are planted with a few different kinds of hens and chicks, and some tiny echeverias.
As when planting any succulent, use either a potting soil made specifically for succulents and cacti, or make your own by taking a good quality potting mix and adding either pumice or perlite. Make sure to use a container that either has drainage holes one that you can punch or drill holes in. Drainage is key to keeping your succulents healthy.
To care for these miniature container gardens, give them full sun, or if you are in a very hot climate, keep them in partial shade. Do not over-water. During the growing season, keep the soil moist, but not wet. During the winter, when succulents go into dormancy, let the soil dry out between waterings.
Hens and chicks are incredibly forgiving plants. They are extremely hardy - most of them can survive in zone 3, and can tolerate poor soil.
For Step by step instructions on making clam shell container gardens.
3.Succulents in a Lunchbox
You can plant succulents in almost anything. Because of their shallow root structure, you don't need a very deep pot. You do need good drainage though. I took a large nail and hammered so many holes in the bottom of this box, that by the time I was done, it looked like Swiss cheese.
Because the metal is pretty thin, I made sure to punch the holes with the metal sitting directly on the ground, so it wouldn't bend the box.
After I punched the holes, I lined the box with plastic also with holes, so it wouldn't rust as quickly. I then filled it with a potting mix specifically designed for cacti and succulents. I packed the box full of plants, putting the ones that I knew would drape, near the edges, and the larger plants near the back.
The box sits in full sun, and I water it enough to keep the soil moist, but not wet. I'll bring it inside in the late fall and keep it in bright, indirect light. In the winter I'll let the soil dry out completely between waterings.
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