文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月20日
Coral aloe (Aloe striata) is a strikingly beautiful, hardy and easy-to-grow succulent.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月13日
Few houseplants can boast blooms as vibrant as the fire lily (Clivia miniata). After your winter holiday when plants like poinsettias and amaryllis have faded, the fire lily fills a gap when the days are short and spring still seems far off. Despite its exotic appearance, the fire lily is easy to grow as a houseplant, producing large clusters of blooms in the dry environment of the typical home. This tropical perennial can also be grown as an outdoor landscape plant in USDA zones 10 to 11, where it is often massed in large drifts, much the way daylilies are used.
The Clivia genus is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family of plants, a group that includes the amaryllis—the popular winter houseplant. They can be introduced into the home as potted nursery plants at any time; if planted in the garden in warm climates, they are best planted at any time other than the hottest part of summer. These slow-growing plants can take several years to flower when they are planted from seeds.
Botanical Name Clivia miniata
Common Name Fire lily, natal lily, bush lily, clivia
Family Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Winter
Flower Color Orange, yellow, cream, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Highly toxic in large quantities
Fire Lily Care
Like many South African plants, the fire lily is a tough and resilient specimen. Too much sun or water, though, will cause the plant's demise. If you've purchased a fire lily and it won't bloom, it is usually due to a lack of winter dormancy or immaturity. Fire lilies will grow for years in the same pot with little intervention.
Light
Fire lilies prefer partially shady conditions, which makes them valuable as a houseplant. If you grow your plant indoors all year, place it in a bright window. If you give your plant an outdoor location in the summer months, put it in a spot with dappled sunlight or morning sun.
Soil
Good drainage is important to a healthy fire lily plant. A chunky soil mix full of shredded bark, like those used for orchids, is suitable for a container-grown plant. A sandy cactus mix is also a good choice.
Water
Fire lilies need moderate water. Allow the soil to dry between waterings. When it's time for the early winter dormancy period, reduce watering to keep the soil just short of bone-dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Average room temperatures and low humidity help fire lilies look their best. A cool dormancy period increases the beauty of fire lily flowering. You can achieve this by keeping the plants in an unheated shed or garage in November and December. Plants should be kept between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during this time.
If moving fire lilies back and forth between indoors and an outdoor location, it's best to acclimate them slowly if the temperature range is substantial. Make sure to bring them back indoors before the weather approaches freezing.
Fertilizer
A slow-release houseplant fertilizer can help your fire lily thrive. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer from January until August, then use a fertilizer designed to increase blooming in September and October. Do not fertilize in the winter months leading up to bloom time.
Types of Fire Lily
Most fire lilies sold in garden centers are orange, fewer are yellow, and the rare and expensive cream or pink varieties are usually found through specialty nurseries.
'Doris' is dark orange with a yellow throat.
'Jenny' is orange with a yellow stripe.
'Tiny Tim' has shorter leaves and miniature orange blooms with white throats.
'Solomone Yellow' is a bright yellow.
'Vico Yellow' is a very pale yellow.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary for the fire lily. You can remove dead foliage as needed to keep the plant tidy.
Potting and Repotting Fire Lily
Fire lilies will grow happily in a container for years. A porous terra cotta pot will help with air circulation around the roots, preventing rot. Do not place a saucer under the pot; instead, you should use pot feet to let extra water drain away.
Fire lilies are slow-growing and like to be a little bit rootbound, so you won't need to repot them often. However, if the soil mix you used is getting compacted over time, give the fire lily a fresh pot of soil to maintain good aeration.
Propagating Fire Lily
You can propagate fire lilies by gently digging and dividing them. The base of the plant will branch off into thick roots that are easy to cut apart. Remove the plant from its pot and wash away the soil with a hose or sink sprayer. Each division should have one fan of leaves. If your plant doesn't have at least a dozen leaves, it won't flower.
How to Grow Fire Lily From Seed
Growing the fire lily from seed takes patience, as it may take several years for the slow-growing plants to bloom. Plant fresh seed collected from the fruiting capsule after bloom. Press seeds lightly into moist, sandy potting soil, and keep warm. Germination takes about three weeks.
Overwintering
When grown as houseplants, fire lilies require a rest period of about two to three months in fall and winter. For the first month, give them a temperature between 40- and 60-degrees Fahrenheit. After this, water just barely for six to eight weeks. When new flower stalks appear, you can give them more water and gradually acclimate them to normal room temperatures.
Common Pests
Mealybugs sometimes infest fire lilies. The fuzzy white pests will hide in the crown of the plant and suck out its juices. Dislodge them with a spray of water or use insecticidal soap.
FAQ
What is the difference between fire lilies and amaryllis?
Fire lilies are in the same plant family as the popular winter holiday gift plant amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Both have the same strappy foliage, and both are from South Africa. The amaryllis has larger flowers and blooms earlier in the year. The amaryllis has several hundred cultivars, so you can find a greater diversity in size, shape, and color within the amaryllis group than you can in the fire lilies.
How long does a fire lily live?
These hardy plants can survive for 10 years or so with proper care. Keep in mind that they might not bloom during the first season or two.
How can I keep animals away from my fire lily?
When growing the fire lily as a houseplant, keep it out of reach of curious dogs. When it's growing outside, consider covering the bed with wire mesh just underneath the soil, with appropriate-sized holes cut for the plant to grow through to prevent animals from digging up or munching on the bulbs.
The Clivia genus is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family of plants, a group that includes the amaryllis—the popular winter houseplant. They can be introduced into the home as potted nursery plants at any time; if planted in the garden in warm climates, they are best planted at any time other than the hottest part of summer. These slow-growing plants can take several years to flower when they are planted from seeds.
Botanical Name Clivia miniata
Common Name Fire lily, natal lily, bush lily, clivia
Family Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Winter
Flower Color Orange, yellow, cream, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Highly toxic in large quantities
Fire Lily Care
Like many South African plants, the fire lily is a tough and resilient specimen. Too much sun or water, though, will cause the plant's demise. If you've purchased a fire lily and it won't bloom, it is usually due to a lack of winter dormancy or immaturity. Fire lilies will grow for years in the same pot with little intervention.
Light
Fire lilies prefer partially shady conditions, which makes them valuable as a houseplant. If you grow your plant indoors all year, place it in a bright window. If you give your plant an outdoor location in the summer months, put it in a spot with dappled sunlight or morning sun.
Soil
Good drainage is important to a healthy fire lily plant. A chunky soil mix full of shredded bark, like those used for orchids, is suitable for a container-grown plant. A sandy cactus mix is also a good choice.
Water
Fire lilies need moderate water. Allow the soil to dry between waterings. When it's time for the early winter dormancy period, reduce watering to keep the soil just short of bone-dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Average room temperatures and low humidity help fire lilies look their best. A cool dormancy period increases the beauty of fire lily flowering. You can achieve this by keeping the plants in an unheated shed or garage in November and December. Plants should be kept between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during this time.
If moving fire lilies back and forth between indoors and an outdoor location, it's best to acclimate them slowly if the temperature range is substantial. Make sure to bring them back indoors before the weather approaches freezing.
Fertilizer
A slow-release houseplant fertilizer can help your fire lily thrive. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer from January until August, then use a fertilizer designed to increase blooming in September and October. Do not fertilize in the winter months leading up to bloom time.
Types of Fire Lily
Most fire lilies sold in garden centers are orange, fewer are yellow, and the rare and expensive cream or pink varieties are usually found through specialty nurseries.
'Doris' is dark orange with a yellow throat.
'Jenny' is orange with a yellow stripe.
'Tiny Tim' has shorter leaves and miniature orange blooms with white throats.
'Solomone Yellow' is a bright yellow.
'Vico Yellow' is a very pale yellow.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary for the fire lily. You can remove dead foliage as needed to keep the plant tidy.
Potting and Repotting Fire Lily
Fire lilies will grow happily in a container for years. A porous terra cotta pot will help with air circulation around the roots, preventing rot. Do not place a saucer under the pot; instead, you should use pot feet to let extra water drain away.
Fire lilies are slow-growing and like to be a little bit rootbound, so you won't need to repot them often. However, if the soil mix you used is getting compacted over time, give the fire lily a fresh pot of soil to maintain good aeration.
Propagating Fire Lily
You can propagate fire lilies by gently digging and dividing them. The base of the plant will branch off into thick roots that are easy to cut apart. Remove the plant from its pot and wash away the soil with a hose or sink sprayer. Each division should have one fan of leaves. If your plant doesn't have at least a dozen leaves, it won't flower.
How to Grow Fire Lily From Seed
Growing the fire lily from seed takes patience, as it may take several years for the slow-growing plants to bloom. Plant fresh seed collected from the fruiting capsule after bloom. Press seeds lightly into moist, sandy potting soil, and keep warm. Germination takes about three weeks.
Overwintering
When grown as houseplants, fire lilies require a rest period of about two to three months in fall and winter. For the first month, give them a temperature between 40- and 60-degrees Fahrenheit. After this, water just barely for six to eight weeks. When new flower stalks appear, you can give them more water and gradually acclimate them to normal room temperatures.
Common Pests
Mealybugs sometimes infest fire lilies. The fuzzy white pests will hide in the crown of the plant and suck out its juices. Dislodge them with a spray of water or use insecticidal soap.
FAQ
What is the difference between fire lilies and amaryllis?
Fire lilies are in the same plant family as the popular winter holiday gift plant amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Both have the same strappy foliage, and both are from South Africa. The amaryllis has larger flowers and blooms earlier in the year. The amaryllis has several hundred cultivars, so you can find a greater diversity in size, shape, and color within the amaryllis group than you can in the fire lilies.
How long does a fire lily live?
These hardy plants can survive for 10 years or so with proper care. Keep in mind that they might not bloom during the first season or two.
How can I keep animals away from my fire lily?
When growing the fire lily as a houseplant, keep it out of reach of curious dogs. When it's growing outside, consider covering the bed with wire mesh just underneath the soil, with appropriate-sized holes cut for the plant to grow through to prevent animals from digging up or munching on the bulbs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月24日
Catawba rhododendron is a member of the heath family, making it a relative of such landscape plants as:
Winter heath (Erica x darleyensis)
Heather (Calluna vulgaris)
Andromeda (Pieris japonica)
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
FEATURED VIDEO
An even closer relative is the azalea, which also belongs to the Rhododendron genus. This multi-stemmed plant is grown mainly for its large clusters of lavender flowers. But a secondary feature worthy of consideration is its large, attractive, evergreen leaves, which are glossy and a dark green color.
Botanical Name Rhododendron catawbiense
Common Name Catawba rhododendron
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size Will stay 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide for many years but can eventually get larger
Sun Exposure Partial shade to full shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time April to June
Flower Color Most commonly lavender-pink but does come in other colors
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8
Native Area Southeastern United States
How to Grow Catawba Rhododendron
One key to growing Catawba rhododendron bush successfully is realizing just how sensitive its root system is and taking appropriate steps to protect it. For example, the root system does not like to be exposed to heat, which is one reason why it should be grown in the shade.
But locating the plant in the shade is just the beginning of pampering its roots. You can't let the roots dry out, so Catawba rhododendron would not be an ideal plant to grow in regions prone to drought. On the other hand, Catawba rhododendron does not like having wet feet (which is likely to happen if you are trying to grow it in a clayey soil), so good drainage is essential. In ground with poor drainage, the plant can suffer from root rot.
Moreover, this bush has a shallow root system, meaning that its roots are easily damaged (for example, by weeding too vigorously around it and accidentally striking its roots with a shovel). Some of these concerns can be addressed by applying 3 inches of mulch around your Catawba rhododendron. A layer of mulch will:
Reduce the amount of heat that permeates down to the root system
Help retain moisture
Cut down on weed growth and furnish a protective buffer between you and the root system
Catawba rhododendron is attacked by many kinds of insect pests. Happily, hummingbirds also like it.
Prune your Catawba rhododendron just after it is done flowering. Tardy pruning could cause a reduction in flowers for next year. As always when pruning shrubs, start by pruning off dead or damaged branches. Next, trim off any branches that are sticking way up above the rest, thereby spoiling the overall shape of the bush. Yearly pruning will promote a more compact shape.
Light
Give Catawba rhododendron a little morning sun at the northern end of its range. At the southern end of its range, give it full shade.
Soil
Make sure that the soil for these shrubs drains well. If the soil does not currently drain well, amend the soil with organic matter.
Water
Catawba rhododendron has average water needs, but try to keep its soil evenly moist.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Catawba rhododendron in spring yearly by working compost into the soil.
All parts of this bush are poisonous, so do not allow small children around it since they may be tempted to nibble at its foliage or flowers.
Uses for Catawba Rhododendron Bushes
Catawba rhododendron, with its rounded habit, nice foliage, and colorful flowers, is impressive enough to function as a specimen plant in spring. Alternatively, mass several Catawba rhododendron shrubs together to create an attractive living privacy screen. Gardeners with a lot of shade in their landscapes will value Catawba rhododendron as a plant that tolerates almost full shade (a growing condition that many plants simply will not put up with). It is an ideal plant for woodland gardens, particularly those with excessive shade.
Catawba Rhododendron Cultivar for Moon Gardens
If you are seeking shrubs for moon gardens and wonder if there is a white-blooming Catawba rhododendron, you are in luck. A cultivar of this popular flowering shrub with white flowers is Rhododendron 'Catawbiense Album.' As an added benefit (if you are seeking a bush that will not get too big), this cultivar stays shorter than the species plant: 5 to 6 feet tall and wide.
Winter heath (Erica x darleyensis)
Heather (Calluna vulgaris)
Andromeda (Pieris japonica)
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
FEATURED VIDEO
An even closer relative is the azalea, which also belongs to the Rhododendron genus. This multi-stemmed plant is grown mainly for its large clusters of lavender flowers. But a secondary feature worthy of consideration is its large, attractive, evergreen leaves, which are glossy and a dark green color.
Botanical Name Rhododendron catawbiense
Common Name Catawba rhododendron
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size Will stay 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide for many years but can eventually get larger
Sun Exposure Partial shade to full shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time April to June
Flower Color Most commonly lavender-pink but does come in other colors
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8
Native Area Southeastern United States
How to Grow Catawba Rhododendron
One key to growing Catawba rhododendron bush successfully is realizing just how sensitive its root system is and taking appropriate steps to protect it. For example, the root system does not like to be exposed to heat, which is one reason why it should be grown in the shade.
But locating the plant in the shade is just the beginning of pampering its roots. You can't let the roots dry out, so Catawba rhododendron would not be an ideal plant to grow in regions prone to drought. On the other hand, Catawba rhododendron does not like having wet feet (which is likely to happen if you are trying to grow it in a clayey soil), so good drainage is essential. In ground with poor drainage, the plant can suffer from root rot.
Moreover, this bush has a shallow root system, meaning that its roots are easily damaged (for example, by weeding too vigorously around it and accidentally striking its roots with a shovel). Some of these concerns can be addressed by applying 3 inches of mulch around your Catawba rhododendron. A layer of mulch will:
Reduce the amount of heat that permeates down to the root system
Help retain moisture
Cut down on weed growth and furnish a protective buffer between you and the root system
Catawba rhododendron is attacked by many kinds of insect pests. Happily, hummingbirds also like it.
Prune your Catawba rhododendron just after it is done flowering. Tardy pruning could cause a reduction in flowers for next year. As always when pruning shrubs, start by pruning off dead or damaged branches. Next, trim off any branches that are sticking way up above the rest, thereby spoiling the overall shape of the bush. Yearly pruning will promote a more compact shape.
Light
Give Catawba rhododendron a little morning sun at the northern end of its range. At the southern end of its range, give it full shade.
Soil
Make sure that the soil for these shrubs drains well. If the soil does not currently drain well, amend the soil with organic matter.
Water
Catawba rhododendron has average water needs, but try to keep its soil evenly moist.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Catawba rhododendron in spring yearly by working compost into the soil.
All parts of this bush are poisonous, so do not allow small children around it since they may be tempted to nibble at its foliage or flowers.
Uses for Catawba Rhododendron Bushes
Catawba rhododendron, with its rounded habit, nice foliage, and colorful flowers, is impressive enough to function as a specimen plant in spring. Alternatively, mass several Catawba rhododendron shrubs together to create an attractive living privacy screen. Gardeners with a lot of shade in their landscapes will value Catawba rhododendron as a plant that tolerates almost full shade (a growing condition that many plants simply will not put up with). It is an ideal plant for woodland gardens, particularly those with excessive shade.
Catawba Rhododendron Cultivar for Moon Gardens
If you are seeking shrubs for moon gardens and wonder if there is a white-blooming Catawba rhododendron, you are in luck. A cultivar of this popular flowering shrub with white flowers is Rhododendron 'Catawbiense Album.' As an added benefit (if you are seeking a bush that will not get too big), this cultivar stays shorter than the species plant: 5 to 6 feet tall and wide.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月25日
Butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) is a type of winter squash. The fruit starts out with a light green skin, but its skin, or shell, turns beige when the squash is ready to be harvested in fall. The flesh is dense and rich-orange in color. Some people roast butternut squash and use it in soups, while others boil it, mash it, and serve it in place of mashed potatoes. This nutritious vegetable (technically a fruit) is high in vitamin A.
Butternut squash plants are annuals that grow in almost any climate. They are planted in spring, following the last frost of the season. Their vines grow quickly, but the fruits may not be ready to harvest for three to four months from planting time.
Botanical Name Cucurbita moschata
Common Names Butternut squash, Butternut pumpkin, Gramma
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 9 to 18 inches tall, 10 to 15 feet wide (vine length)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 2 to 11
Native Area Central America, South America
How to Plant Butternut Squash
If you want an instant garden, you can sometimes find butternut squash seedlings for sale in peat pots at the garden center. Peat pots break down naturally when planted in the ground, so there is no need to do any transplanting. Butternut squash also is very easy to grow from seed.
Commonly, gardeners plant butternut squash in groups of three, forming a so-called "hill." Hills should be spaced at least 8 feet apart and should be amended ahead of time with compost, manure, etc. Plant seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, in groups of four or five seeds. When the seedlings emerge, thin them to the spacing interval specified for the variety.
When the seedlings are young, they are susceptible to drought (so keep their soil moist) and to damage from slugs and snails. Be sure to take control measures against these pests. Later in the season, Japanese beetles can become a problem. You can dust the leaves with garden lime to discourage them or simply pick them off by hand.
During the summer, butternut squash vines profit from regular watering and fertilizing. As fruits form on the vines, place something under them so that they do not have direct contact with the soil. This will keep them dry and help prevent rotting. You can place small boards, flat stones, bricks, or straw mulch under them.
Butternut Squash Care
Light
Butternut squash needs full sun, ideally 6 hours per day. More time in the sun is fine, provided the plants are not overheated.
Soil
The soil should be rich in organic material, and it must drain well. It can be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0.
Water
Seedlings must not be allowed to dry out. As the summer progresses and the vines get bigger, your plants will need even more water. During hot, dry weather, leaves may wilt on a daily basis but will revive as the day cools. If leaves are wilted in the morning, water the plants right away.
Fertilizer
Butternut squash is a heavy feeder. Start with rich soil, and side dress with organic compost or aged manure in the middle of the growing season. In addition, apply a compost tea or liquid fertilizer at two- to three-week intervals.
Temperature and Humidity
Squash are cold-sensitive and will not germinate unless the soil is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants love the sun, but they can overheat. During the hot days of summer, it's normal for the leaves to wilt in the afternoon, then revive after the sun goes down. If your plants are not reviving, try giving them some afternoon shade.
Winter Squash vs. Summer Squash
A "winter squash" is defined as a kind of squash that has a hard enough skin that it preserves well if stored in a cool place. Thus, if you were to harvest one in October, it would keep until December (winter) if stored in a suitable place, such as un unheated basement or root cellar.
Butternut squash is just one of several winter squashes that are commonly grown. Another popular winter squash is Hubbard squash (Cucurbita maxima), which has a gray, bumpy exterior.
In contrast to winter squashes, there are also summer squashes, such as zucchini squash (Cucurbita pepo var. cylindrica). Summer squashes have a soft skin and perish quickly.
Harvesting
Use the color of the fruits to determine when to harvest them. As summer winds down, their skin will begin to turn light beige. They are ready to harvest when that beige color becomes deeper; the skin will often have bronze highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Three other indicators will help you determine maturity:
Check the stem where it meets the fruit; it turns a brownish color (as if drying out) at maturity.
The skin should have a dull appearance (no shine).
Thump the fruit with your knuckle; it should be hard and produce a hollow sound.
How to Grow Butternut Squash From Seed
Most gardeners purchase butternut squash seed packets (available at grocery stores, hardware stores, online, and from seed catalogs). Once you have the seeds, you can start them indoors to get a jump on the season, or you can wait until danger of frost has passed and direct-sow outdoors. Direct seeding in the garden is easier, but starting seeds indoors can be helpful to those in areas with short summers.
To start seeds indoors, plant them about three weeks before the last frost in spring. Fill peat pots with potting soil, and plant two seeds in each pot. Water, and place the pots in a sunny window. Do not let the soil dry out completely. If both seeds in a pot germinate, select the healthiest seedling as the one to keep and pinch out the other.
Now begins the hardening off process. On warm days, set the pots outdoors for a few hours at a time. Bring them back indoors at night. Gradually increase the number of hours that they stay out. This process helps them adjust to the transition from an indoor environment to an outdoor environment. Plant the peat pots in the ground once the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit and all threat of frost has passed.
If you choose to direct seed, simply skip to the step where you create hills and plant four or five seeds in each hill, thinning them out later.
Butternut squash plants are annuals that grow in almost any climate. They are planted in spring, following the last frost of the season. Their vines grow quickly, but the fruits may not be ready to harvest for three to four months from planting time.
Botanical Name Cucurbita moschata
Common Names Butternut squash, Butternut pumpkin, Gramma
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 9 to 18 inches tall, 10 to 15 feet wide (vine length)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 2 to 11
Native Area Central America, South America
How to Plant Butternut Squash
If you want an instant garden, you can sometimes find butternut squash seedlings for sale in peat pots at the garden center. Peat pots break down naturally when planted in the ground, so there is no need to do any transplanting. Butternut squash also is very easy to grow from seed.
Commonly, gardeners plant butternut squash in groups of three, forming a so-called "hill." Hills should be spaced at least 8 feet apart and should be amended ahead of time with compost, manure, etc. Plant seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, in groups of four or five seeds. When the seedlings emerge, thin them to the spacing interval specified for the variety.
When the seedlings are young, they are susceptible to drought (so keep their soil moist) and to damage from slugs and snails. Be sure to take control measures against these pests. Later in the season, Japanese beetles can become a problem. You can dust the leaves with garden lime to discourage them or simply pick them off by hand.
During the summer, butternut squash vines profit from regular watering and fertilizing. As fruits form on the vines, place something under them so that they do not have direct contact with the soil. This will keep them dry and help prevent rotting. You can place small boards, flat stones, bricks, or straw mulch under them.
Butternut Squash Care
Light
Butternut squash needs full sun, ideally 6 hours per day. More time in the sun is fine, provided the plants are not overheated.
Soil
The soil should be rich in organic material, and it must drain well. It can be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0.
Water
Seedlings must not be allowed to dry out. As the summer progresses and the vines get bigger, your plants will need even more water. During hot, dry weather, leaves may wilt on a daily basis but will revive as the day cools. If leaves are wilted in the morning, water the plants right away.
Fertilizer
Butternut squash is a heavy feeder. Start with rich soil, and side dress with organic compost or aged manure in the middle of the growing season. In addition, apply a compost tea or liquid fertilizer at two- to three-week intervals.
Temperature and Humidity
Squash are cold-sensitive and will not germinate unless the soil is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants love the sun, but they can overheat. During the hot days of summer, it's normal for the leaves to wilt in the afternoon, then revive after the sun goes down. If your plants are not reviving, try giving them some afternoon shade.
Winter Squash vs. Summer Squash
A "winter squash" is defined as a kind of squash that has a hard enough skin that it preserves well if stored in a cool place. Thus, if you were to harvest one in October, it would keep until December (winter) if stored in a suitable place, such as un unheated basement or root cellar.
Butternut squash is just one of several winter squashes that are commonly grown. Another popular winter squash is Hubbard squash (Cucurbita maxima), which has a gray, bumpy exterior.
In contrast to winter squashes, there are also summer squashes, such as zucchini squash (Cucurbita pepo var. cylindrica). Summer squashes have a soft skin and perish quickly.
Harvesting
Use the color of the fruits to determine when to harvest them. As summer winds down, their skin will begin to turn light beige. They are ready to harvest when that beige color becomes deeper; the skin will often have bronze highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Three other indicators will help you determine maturity:
Check the stem where it meets the fruit; it turns a brownish color (as if drying out) at maturity.
The skin should have a dull appearance (no shine).
Thump the fruit with your knuckle; it should be hard and produce a hollow sound.
How to Grow Butternut Squash From Seed
Most gardeners purchase butternut squash seed packets (available at grocery stores, hardware stores, online, and from seed catalogs). Once you have the seeds, you can start them indoors to get a jump on the season, or you can wait until danger of frost has passed and direct-sow outdoors. Direct seeding in the garden is easier, but starting seeds indoors can be helpful to those in areas with short summers.
To start seeds indoors, plant them about three weeks before the last frost in spring. Fill peat pots with potting soil, and plant two seeds in each pot. Water, and place the pots in a sunny window. Do not let the soil dry out completely. If both seeds in a pot germinate, select the healthiest seedling as the one to keep and pinch out the other.
Now begins the hardening off process. On warm days, set the pots outdoors for a few hours at a time. Bring them back indoors at night. Gradually increase the number of hours that they stay out. This process helps them adjust to the transition from an indoor environment to an outdoor environment. Plant the peat pots in the ground once the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit and all threat of frost has passed.
If you choose to direct seed, simply skip to the step where you create hills and plant four or five seeds in each hill, thinning them out later.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月19日
The Buttercup Winter Hazel is a medium-sized deciduous shrub in the witch hazel family that is a native of Japan. It grows no higher than six feet tall with a spreading form that fills out to a branchy width that is as wide as it is tall. The foliage is not particularly spectacular in the spring and summer, and can often be lost in these seasons, though it does provide an excellent nesting habitat for birds and small mammals. It is in the fall and especially the winter, as its common name suggests, that the species truly shines. In the fall the leaves turn bright fiery yellow that is much brighter in color than the muted yellow that will be on display later. These fall leaves shed to make way for ghostly gray branches that will. for a short time, exhibit no sign of life at all. That is when the show begins.
Depending on how mild a winter you experienced, new growth will start to develop along the branches of the Buttercup Winter Hazel in the form of reddish flower buds. Soon, these burst open and reveal a pendulous cluster of translucent buttercup-shaped and colored flowers. These pale-yellow little flowers will linger for a few weeks to a few months, depending on the weather. While in bloom, be sure to take advantage of their lovely fragrance as much as possible, too.
As the weather warms and other plants soon start to show signs of life, the Buttercup Winter Hazel will continue to be of interest. You will notice the plant’s blossoms wilting and falling off and new leaf buds forming. The spring beckoning flowers will make way for the leaf buds. Shoots that appear as green growth emerge, and the other plants around the Buttercup Winter Hazel enter the limelight to a much more crowded spring stage.
Botanical Name Corylopsis pauciflora
Common Name Buttercup Winter Hazel
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Tall 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Wide
Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Type Rich, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late Winter- Early Spring
Flower Color Pale Yellow
Hardiness Zone 6 to 8, USA
Native Range Japan, Taiwan
Winter Hazel Care
Picking the perfect place for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is important. Aesthetically, this is a gorgeous plant on its own, there is no doubt about it. Adding elements can and will highlight and add to its features by using a few things to enhance the beauty that is already there.
First, consider selecting a place to take advantage of its translucent flowers. With the sun shining through the blossoms, it will almost create a yellow stained-glass effect. For this, you want a low sun angle.
Second, consider color theory and negative space. Remember during the fall, winter, and early spring, you will have yellow branches. Consider backdropping the shrub with a conifer to give the colors a boost and to work the lighter colored bones of the Buttercup Winter Hazel against the darker conifer. Finally, think about putting some colorful winter blooming herbaceous flowers under the Buttercup Winter Hazel such as Hellebore, Snowdrops, or Winter Aconite.
When you have found a visually appealing place, it is time to get planting. It will be a good idea to test the soil before planting. You can add any amendments now if the soil is deficient or in need of some help.
Planting your Buttercup Winter Hazel will be done as usual for a shrubby tree. Dig a hole wider and deeper than the root ball. Add compost to the hole, then place the plant so that the root ball is even with the soil line. Fill in the hole with a mix of compost, the soil you removed, a few heaping handfuls of perlite, and then cover with mulch to the drip line. You will want to water your plant weekly, deeply, and thoroughly for the first growing season. Once your Buttercup Winter Hazel is established, enjoy the hope it instills every year with the beautiful smells it unleashes into the crisp winter air.v
Light
Planting the Buttercup Winter Hazel in full sun to part shade will help your plant thrive. More sun will increase the number of blooms on your shrub. As stated above, consider using the sun as a design element when placing the tree in your landscape.
Soil
The ideal soil for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is acidic, light, organically rich, and well-drained, not compact. It does not tolerate heavy, compact clay soil.
Water
Once established, watering the Buttercup Winter Hazel can be left to nature unless you live in an especially dry area, or you are experiencing a drought.
Temperature and Humidity
The Winter Hazel is hardy to Zones 6 to 8. Flower buds can be damaged from early spring frosts. The shrub is also susceptible to damage from high winds. Placing the shrub in a sheltered area can help it thrive.
Fertilizer
Yearly feeding can help with flower production. The Buttercup Winter Hazel enjoys acidic soils, so testing the soil pH yearly to see what fertilizer will be most beneficiall should be a priority. Prune the shrub immediately after flowering in the spring.
Depending on how mild a winter you experienced, new growth will start to develop along the branches of the Buttercup Winter Hazel in the form of reddish flower buds. Soon, these burst open and reveal a pendulous cluster of translucent buttercup-shaped and colored flowers. These pale-yellow little flowers will linger for a few weeks to a few months, depending on the weather. While in bloom, be sure to take advantage of their lovely fragrance as much as possible, too.
As the weather warms and other plants soon start to show signs of life, the Buttercup Winter Hazel will continue to be of interest. You will notice the plant’s blossoms wilting and falling off and new leaf buds forming. The spring beckoning flowers will make way for the leaf buds. Shoots that appear as green growth emerge, and the other plants around the Buttercup Winter Hazel enter the limelight to a much more crowded spring stage.
Botanical Name Corylopsis pauciflora
Common Name Buttercup Winter Hazel
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Tall 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Wide
Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Type Rich, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late Winter- Early Spring
Flower Color Pale Yellow
Hardiness Zone 6 to 8, USA
Native Range Japan, Taiwan
Winter Hazel Care
Picking the perfect place for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is important. Aesthetically, this is a gorgeous plant on its own, there is no doubt about it. Adding elements can and will highlight and add to its features by using a few things to enhance the beauty that is already there.
First, consider selecting a place to take advantage of its translucent flowers. With the sun shining through the blossoms, it will almost create a yellow stained-glass effect. For this, you want a low sun angle.
Second, consider color theory and negative space. Remember during the fall, winter, and early spring, you will have yellow branches. Consider backdropping the shrub with a conifer to give the colors a boost and to work the lighter colored bones of the Buttercup Winter Hazel against the darker conifer. Finally, think about putting some colorful winter blooming herbaceous flowers under the Buttercup Winter Hazel such as Hellebore, Snowdrops, or Winter Aconite.
When you have found a visually appealing place, it is time to get planting. It will be a good idea to test the soil before planting. You can add any amendments now if the soil is deficient or in need of some help.
Planting your Buttercup Winter Hazel will be done as usual for a shrubby tree. Dig a hole wider and deeper than the root ball. Add compost to the hole, then place the plant so that the root ball is even with the soil line. Fill in the hole with a mix of compost, the soil you removed, a few heaping handfuls of perlite, and then cover with mulch to the drip line. You will want to water your plant weekly, deeply, and thoroughly for the first growing season. Once your Buttercup Winter Hazel is established, enjoy the hope it instills every year with the beautiful smells it unleashes into the crisp winter air.v
Light
Planting the Buttercup Winter Hazel in full sun to part shade will help your plant thrive. More sun will increase the number of blooms on your shrub. As stated above, consider using the sun as a design element when placing the tree in your landscape.
Soil
The ideal soil for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is acidic, light, organically rich, and well-drained, not compact. It does not tolerate heavy, compact clay soil.
Water
Once established, watering the Buttercup Winter Hazel can be left to nature unless you live in an especially dry area, or you are experiencing a drought.
Temperature and Humidity
The Winter Hazel is hardy to Zones 6 to 8. Flower buds can be damaged from early spring frosts. The shrub is also susceptible to damage from high winds. Placing the shrub in a sheltered area can help it thrive.
Fertilizer
Yearly feeding can help with flower production. The Buttercup Winter Hazel enjoys acidic soils, so testing the soil pH yearly to see what fertilizer will be most beneficiall should be a priority. Prune the shrub immediately after flowering in the spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月23日
The giant amaryllis flowers commonly grown as winter-blooming houseplants are generally carefully bred hybrids derived from various species in the Hippeastrum genus, a group of tropical plants from Central and South America. These plants have strappy leaves and huge flowers shaped like trumpet lilies. The blooms are typically are a deep red, pink, white, or blend of these colors. You can expect your amaryllis to bloom for seven weeks or longer.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月07日
Distribution and habitat: Crassula ovata is native to South Africa where it grows on rocky hillsides under the blazing sun. Rain there is infrequent and usually occurs during the winter months. Consequently, Crassula ovata plants flower during the late winter.
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月04日
Distribution and habitat: Crassula ovata is native to South Africa where it grows on rocky hillsides under the blazing sun. Rain there is infrequent and usually occurs during the winter months. Consequently, Crassula ovata plants flower during the late winter.
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
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莹723
2021年02月07日
With spring around the corner, February is the ideal time to prepare your allotment for some of the earliest outdoor sowings in March. There are also tasty harvests of winter salads like mizuna, rocket and kale to be had.
As well as the jobs listed below, there are plenty of indoor sowings you can start now, before transferring to the allotment later in the year. This includes sowing tomatoes, globe artichokes and sprouting broccoli in a propagator, while Brussels sprouts, leeks, onions and spinach can all be sown under cover.
Discover seven allotment jobs for February, below.
1.Harvest the last kale leaves
Kale leaves are delicious and nutritious, and whichever type you’re growing, from the purple ‘Redbor’ to the Italian ‘Cavolo Nero’, all are winter-hardy. In February, new side shoots appear which can be cropped for a few weeks before the plant runs to seed.
2.Pick mizuna and sow more
Mizuna, rocket and winter lettuce plants sown last autumn should now be ready to harvest, providing fresh green leaves for meals. Don’t worry if you haven’t grown any of these, as you can sow all three in the greenhouse in February where they’ll respond well to conditions of low light and cool weather.
3.Prepare beds for sowing
Preparing beds before sowing begins in spring is one of the most important February allotment jobs. In doing so, you’ll help to aerate, drain and warm the soil. When digging over, be sure to incorporate plenty of homemade compost or composted manure. Alternatively, give beds a dressing of organic matter, then cover in plastic for a few weeks to reduce weeds and warm the soil.
4.Clean and set up cloches
Now’s the time to get cloches ready to warm the soil for early sowings, and provide protection for seedlings and young plants. Clean the sides with a scourer and warm soapy water, before rinsing off. For early crops, prepare and rake level the soil, before putting the cloche in place a few weeks before sowing.
5.Plant rhubarb
For tasty harvests of rhubarb, choose a bright, open position and prepare the soil by digging deeply and incorprating plenty of rich, homemade compost. Plant the crowns so that the buds are level with the soil surface, so make sure your the hole is big enough to allow this. Firm in and water well. Let plants establish for two years before harvesting.
6.Prune autumn raspberries
By pruning away the old canes of autumn-fruiting raspberries now, you’ll give the new shoots plenty of time to grow and strengthen, to hold the fruit crop. Prune old canes hard back to the ground, to avoid damaging the new shoots that’ll emerge between them. You can also plant new canes now.
7.Sow broad beans undercover
Broad beans are easy to sow under cover, and will provide a rewarding harvest in late spring. Sow indoors now in deep pots or modules, before placing in a cool, frost-free location, such as an unheated greenhouse or cold frame.
As well as the jobs listed below, there are plenty of indoor sowings you can start now, before transferring to the allotment later in the year. This includes sowing tomatoes, globe artichokes and sprouting broccoli in a propagator, while Brussels sprouts, leeks, onions and spinach can all be sown under cover.
Discover seven allotment jobs for February, below.
1.Harvest the last kale leaves
Kale leaves are delicious and nutritious, and whichever type you’re growing, from the purple ‘Redbor’ to the Italian ‘Cavolo Nero’, all are winter-hardy. In February, new side shoots appear which can be cropped for a few weeks before the plant runs to seed.
2.Pick mizuna and sow more
Mizuna, rocket and winter lettuce plants sown last autumn should now be ready to harvest, providing fresh green leaves for meals. Don’t worry if you haven’t grown any of these, as you can sow all three in the greenhouse in February where they’ll respond well to conditions of low light and cool weather.
3.Prepare beds for sowing
Preparing beds before sowing begins in spring is one of the most important February allotment jobs. In doing so, you’ll help to aerate, drain and warm the soil. When digging over, be sure to incorporate plenty of homemade compost or composted manure. Alternatively, give beds a dressing of organic matter, then cover in plastic for a few weeks to reduce weeds and warm the soil.
4.Clean and set up cloches
Now’s the time to get cloches ready to warm the soil for early sowings, and provide protection for seedlings and young plants. Clean the sides with a scourer and warm soapy water, before rinsing off. For early crops, prepare and rake level the soil, before putting the cloche in place a few weeks before sowing.
5.Plant rhubarb
For tasty harvests of rhubarb, choose a bright, open position and prepare the soil by digging deeply and incorprating plenty of rich, homemade compost. Plant the crowns so that the buds are level with the soil surface, so make sure your the hole is big enough to allow this. Firm in and water well. Let plants establish for two years before harvesting.
6.Prune autumn raspberries
By pruning away the old canes of autumn-fruiting raspberries now, you’ll give the new shoots plenty of time to grow and strengthen, to hold the fruit crop. Prune old canes hard back to the ground, to avoid damaging the new shoots that’ll emerge between them. You can also plant new canes now.
7.Sow broad beans undercover
Broad beans are easy to sow under cover, and will provide a rewarding harvest in late spring. Sow indoors now in deep pots or modules, before placing in a cool, frost-free location, such as an unheated greenhouse or cold frame.
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文章
莹723
2021年01月11日
Christmas has passed, but you don't have to pack up all your holiday decorations for the season. There are still lots of DIY winter decorations that will add festive touches to your home right on until the warmer weather.
Once you’ve decided what direction to take your winter decoration ideas, you'll probably end up adding some fun winter activities to your list.
1.Yarn-Wrapped Vases
Wrap plain glass vases with strands of yarn, and thread with wood knitting needles. For more textured strands, braid lengths of yarn and tie around vases. Add ranunculuses, baby’s breath, snowberries, and twigs.
2.Winterberries and Greenery
One easy way to spruce up any table: Arrange winterberries and evergreen branches in a galvanized bucket. Here, a simple garland also adds a wintery touch to a country hutch.
3.Wintery Wreath
A simple wreath of pine cones, fresh greenery, and a few white flowers makes a versatile piece you can showcase above a fireplace all winter long.
4. Wintertime Porch Decor
An evergreen tree, branches, and berries make for a merry welcome when styled in vintage galvanized buckets. You can even save a few bucks by using actual sleds instead of props.
5.Stoneware Crock Decoration
This bundle of birch logs, berries, and Christmas tree clippings will look perfect in the foyer. Add a string of lights for extra sparkle.
6.Snowy Pinecone Candle Jars
Snow texture paint, pinecones, Mason jars, and twine come together to create DIY winter luminaries.
7.Birch Candles
Want to add some oomph to an empty space? Create a cluster of birch candlestick holders and place on a hutch or entryway table.
Once you’ve decided what direction to take your winter decoration ideas, you'll probably end up adding some fun winter activities to your list.
1.Yarn-Wrapped Vases
Wrap plain glass vases with strands of yarn, and thread with wood knitting needles. For more textured strands, braid lengths of yarn and tie around vases. Add ranunculuses, baby’s breath, snowberries, and twigs.
2.Winterberries and Greenery
One easy way to spruce up any table: Arrange winterberries and evergreen branches in a galvanized bucket. Here, a simple garland also adds a wintery touch to a country hutch.
3.Wintery Wreath
A simple wreath of pine cones, fresh greenery, and a few white flowers makes a versatile piece you can showcase above a fireplace all winter long.
4. Wintertime Porch Decor
An evergreen tree, branches, and berries make for a merry welcome when styled in vintage galvanized buckets. You can even save a few bucks by using actual sleds instead of props.
5.Stoneware Crock Decoration
This bundle of birch logs, berries, and Christmas tree clippings will look perfect in the foyer. Add a string of lights for extra sparkle.
6.Snowy Pinecone Candle Jars
Snow texture paint, pinecones, Mason jars, and twine come together to create DIY winter luminaries.
7.Birch Candles
Want to add some oomph to an empty space? Create a cluster of birch candlestick holders and place on a hutch or entryway table.
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莹723
2020年12月15日
In the depths of winter and early spring, the flamboyant blooms of amaryllis (Hippeastrum) are welcome. They’re easy to grow, and take between six to eight weeks to flower. Planted in mid-late September, they should produce their large trumpet flowers for Christmas.
The rich red variety ‘Royal Velvet’ is great for decorating your home or to give as a gift:
Like many bulbs, including lilies, all parts of amaryllis are poisonous to cats and dogs, so please grow them in areas they can’t reach.
You Will Need
•Amaryllis bulb
•Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
•20cm diameter pot
•Pot, for soaking
Step 1
Soak the amaryllis bulbs for a few hours to help rehydrate the roots and speed up the growth process.
Step 2
Fill a pot with compost and sit the bulb on top. Don’t use a pot that’s too big: amaryllis do best when pot bound.
Step 3
Top up with compost and water in. Leave in a warm, dark place for a couple of weeks and don’t water further.
Step 4
When a shoot emerges, bring inside to a warm, light spot and water regularly. Expect flowers in six to eight weeks.
The rich red variety ‘Royal Velvet’ is great for decorating your home or to give as a gift:
Like many bulbs, including lilies, all parts of amaryllis are poisonous to cats and dogs, so please grow them in areas they can’t reach.
You Will Need
•Amaryllis bulb
•Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
•20cm diameter pot
•Pot, for soaking
Step 1
Soak the amaryllis bulbs for a few hours to help rehydrate the roots and speed up the growth process.
Step 2
Fill a pot with compost and sit the bulb on top. Don’t use a pot that’s too big: amaryllis do best when pot bound.
Step 3
Top up with compost and water in. Leave in a warm, dark place for a couple of weeks and don’t water further.
Step 4
When a shoot emerges, bring inside to a warm, light spot and water regularly. Expect flowers in six to eight weeks.
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文章
莹723
2020年11月19日
The blooms of amaryllis (Hippeastrum) are a stunning sight in the depths of winter and early spring. They’re easy to grow, and take between six to eight weeks to flower. Planted during October into an attractive container, they should produce their large trumpet flowers during the coming festive season.
You will like the rich red variety ‘Royal Velvet’, which is great for decorating your home or to give as a gift!
Like many bulbs, including lilies, all parts of amaryllis are poisonous to cats and dogs, so make sure to grow them in areas they can’t reach.
Let’s find out how to force amaryllis bulbs for a wonderful Christmas display.
You Will Need
•Amaryllis bulb
•Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
•20cm diameter pot
•Pot, for soaking
Total time:
30 minutes
Step 1
Soak the amaryllis bulbs for a few hours to help rehydrate the roots and speed up the growth process.
Step 2
Fill a pot with compost and sit the bulb on top. Don’t use a pot that’s too big: amaryllis do best when pot bound.
Step 3
Top up with compost and water in. Leave in a warm, dark place for a couple of weeks and don’t water further.
Step 4
When a shoot emerges, bring inside to a warm, light spot and water regularly. Expect flowers in six to eight weeks.
You will like the rich red variety ‘Royal Velvet’, which is great for decorating your home or to give as a gift!
Like many bulbs, including lilies, all parts of amaryllis are poisonous to cats and dogs, so make sure to grow them in areas they can’t reach.
Let’s find out how to force amaryllis bulbs for a wonderful Christmas display.
You Will Need
•Amaryllis bulb
•Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
•20cm diameter pot
•Pot, for soaking
Total time:
30 minutes
Step 1
Soak the amaryllis bulbs for a few hours to help rehydrate the roots and speed up the growth process.
Step 2
Fill a pot with compost and sit the bulb on top. Don’t use a pot that’s too big: amaryllis do best when pot bound.
Step 3
Top up with compost and water in. Leave in a warm, dark place for a couple of weeks and don’t water further.
Step 4
When a shoot emerges, bring inside to a warm, light spot and water regularly. Expect flowers in six to eight weeks.
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莹723
2020年11月03日
How could we not love Squash? It grows in many different flavors and textures, and just keeps producing and producing.
Winter squash need tons of room to stretch because their vines sprawl 10 to 15 feet in every direction; train the plants up a trellis or fence to conserve space. Harvest winter squash when the rind can’t be pierced with your thumbnail, around the time when the vines wither or even right after the first light frost.
1.Acorn Squash
Shaped like its namesake, these popular winter squash are reliable performers. They’re best baked or stuffed.
Types of Acorn Squash: Honey Bear, Jester
2.Buttercup Squash
These easy-to-grow, turban-shaped squash store well into late winter and are buttery-sweet and satiny when baked and mashed. Bake, puree, and add olive oil and romano cheese for an out-of-this-world sauce to toss with pasta.
Types of Buttercup Squash: Burgess, Bonbon
3.Butternut Squash
Butternuts are typically cylindrical with a bulb-shaped end and a classic, tan rind. You’ll need a few weeks of storage for the flavor to develop, but they last for months and months. They are prolific producers! Bake, sauté, or add to stews.
Types of Butternut Squash: Honeybaby, Waltham
4.Delicata Squash
This heirloom variety has cream and green-striped oblong fruits about three inches wide and six inches long. They’re extremely tender, with a flavor reminiscent of sweet potatoes. And unlike many winter squash, the rind is edible. Heads up: They don't store quite as long as some of the other winter squashes.
Types of Delicata Squash: Bush Delicata
5.Dumpling Squash
These multi-colored squashes with a squat little shape are both pretty and edible. They’re prolific producers, and they can be baked, grilled, steamed, or stuffed.
Types of Dumpling Squash: Sweet Dumpling, Carnival
6.Hubbard Squash
These squash, popular in New England, have a tough, bumpy rind and range in color from bright orange to a gorgeous aqua-blue color. Some varieties weigh in at 12 to 15 pounds each! Roast the medium-sweet flesh, or chunk it for stews.
Types of Hubbard Squash: Red Kuri, Blue Ballet
7.Kabocha Squash
These Japanese squash are similar in appearance to a buttercup, with a flavor that’s reminiscent of sweet potatoes. Bake, steam, or purée in soups.
Types of Kabocha Squash: Sunshine, Hokkori
8.Pumpkin Squash
Pumpkins actually are a type of winter squash. While some varieties are not particularly tasty, and are grown for carving, others are quite sweet! Bake, steam, put in stews, and roast the seeds, or of course make a pumpkin pie. They're easy to grow!
Types of Pumpkin Squash: Pepitas, Super Moon, Hijinks
9.Spaghetti Squash
These oblong-shaped squash have stringy flesh you can scrape out after cooking to create spaghetti-like strands. Use as a pasta substitute or in soups.
Types of Spaghetti Squash: Sugaretti, Tivoli
Winter squash need tons of room to stretch because their vines sprawl 10 to 15 feet in every direction; train the plants up a trellis or fence to conserve space. Harvest winter squash when the rind can’t be pierced with your thumbnail, around the time when the vines wither or even right after the first light frost.
1.Acorn Squash
Shaped like its namesake, these popular winter squash are reliable performers. They’re best baked or stuffed.
Types of Acorn Squash: Honey Bear, Jester
2.Buttercup Squash
These easy-to-grow, turban-shaped squash store well into late winter and are buttery-sweet and satiny when baked and mashed. Bake, puree, and add olive oil and romano cheese for an out-of-this-world sauce to toss with pasta.
Types of Buttercup Squash: Burgess, Bonbon
3.Butternut Squash
Butternuts are typically cylindrical with a bulb-shaped end and a classic, tan rind. You’ll need a few weeks of storage for the flavor to develop, but they last for months and months. They are prolific producers! Bake, sauté, or add to stews.
Types of Butternut Squash: Honeybaby, Waltham
4.Delicata Squash
This heirloom variety has cream and green-striped oblong fruits about three inches wide and six inches long. They’re extremely tender, with a flavor reminiscent of sweet potatoes. And unlike many winter squash, the rind is edible. Heads up: They don't store quite as long as some of the other winter squashes.
Types of Delicata Squash: Bush Delicata
5.Dumpling Squash
These multi-colored squashes with a squat little shape are both pretty and edible. They’re prolific producers, and they can be baked, grilled, steamed, or stuffed.
Types of Dumpling Squash: Sweet Dumpling, Carnival
6.Hubbard Squash
These squash, popular in New England, have a tough, bumpy rind and range in color from bright orange to a gorgeous aqua-blue color. Some varieties weigh in at 12 to 15 pounds each! Roast the medium-sweet flesh, or chunk it for stews.
Types of Hubbard Squash: Red Kuri, Blue Ballet
7.Kabocha Squash
These Japanese squash are similar in appearance to a buttercup, with a flavor that’s reminiscent of sweet potatoes. Bake, steam, or purée in soups.
Types of Kabocha Squash: Sunshine, Hokkori
8.Pumpkin Squash
Pumpkins actually are a type of winter squash. While some varieties are not particularly tasty, and are grown for carving, others are quite sweet! Bake, steam, put in stews, and roast the seeds, or of course make a pumpkin pie. They're easy to grow!
Types of Pumpkin Squash: Pepitas, Super Moon, Hijinks
9.Spaghetti Squash
These oblong-shaped squash have stringy flesh you can scrape out after cooking to create spaghetti-like strands. Use as a pasta substitute or in soups.
Types of Spaghetti Squash: Sugaretti, Tivoli
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文章
莹723
2020年10月14日
Winter is coming! But,whether you live in North or South, not everything in your garden will be asleep from December to March. Even in the coldest days, many annual flowers, perennial flowers, and flowering shrubs don’t wait to show off. And in mild climates, some winter flowers—like pansies, violas, and ornamental kale and cabbages—will bloom all season long.
Before setting your heart on any of these beauties, make sure you’ll be able to give a plant what it needs, such as full sun or shade. Pay attention to planting times too. Most winter bloomers, including bulbs, need put in the ground in the fall.
Not sure where to start? Check out our free garden plans right here.
1.English Primrose
While some varieties bloom in spring or summer, English primroses show in winter. Red, pink, purple, yellow, or white flowers with mounds of deep green foliage cover this plant.
2.Algerian Iris
Unlike other iris plants in your garden, this lesser-known variety blooms in winter to early spring! Its delicate silvery-purple blooms have a sweet fragrance.
3.Crocus
Sweet little cup-like flowers pop their heads up in late winter to early spring. These bulbs do tend to attract rodents, so don’t be surprised if they bloom somewhere other than where you planted them. Your rodent friends like to dig them up and replant elsewhere to store as food!
4. Pussy Willow
The little fuzzy flowers on these shrubs aren’t bright and showy like a lot of winter bloomers. But they display their considerable charms when winter snow is still on the ground，as a sign that spring is coming.
5.Pansy
Like their relatives, violas, pansies offer brilliant color in early spring. They’ll survive a light frost and bloom for most of the winter in mild climates.
6.Winter Jasmine
This shrub has pretty, yellow flowers on arching branches in late winter. It doesn’t have a fragrance like other types of jasmine, but it does offer a bright splash of sunshine in winter.
7.Cyclamen
These pretty, delicate-looking perennials in pinks, whites, and fuchsia are often sold as houseplants. But in mild climates, they do well as ground covers. They like to be under deciduous trees so they can soak up winter sun.
8.Winter Aconite
These happy little yellow blooms will pop up through the snow. Bonus: Deer and rodents usually leave these alone. Plant these bulbs in fall.
9.Viola
The brightly colored, charming violas are a welcome sight on chilly mornings. In mild climates, they’ll last all winter long. They self-seed freely, so you’ll get more baby plants in subsequent years.
10.Winterberry
When cold weather strikes, this plant bursts with bright red berries that add cheery color to the evergreen shrubs. Clip some to bring for holiday cheer, but beware the sharp leaves!
11.Snowdrop
Adorable, drooping white and green flowers appear in late winter, often while there’s still snow. Plant a bunch of them, and get these bulbs in the ground in fall for winter blooms.
12.Daffodil
Daffodils are usually seen as one of the first signs of spring, they will begin growing as early as February. Don't worry about snow or freezing temperatures harming the foliage, they're extremely cold hardy.
Before setting your heart on any of these beauties, make sure you’ll be able to give a plant what it needs, such as full sun or shade. Pay attention to planting times too. Most winter bloomers, including bulbs, need put in the ground in the fall.
Not sure where to start? Check out our free garden plans right here.
1.English Primrose
While some varieties bloom in spring or summer, English primroses show in winter. Red, pink, purple, yellow, or white flowers with mounds of deep green foliage cover this plant.
2.Algerian Iris
Unlike other iris plants in your garden, this lesser-known variety blooms in winter to early spring! Its delicate silvery-purple blooms have a sweet fragrance.
3.Crocus
Sweet little cup-like flowers pop their heads up in late winter to early spring. These bulbs do tend to attract rodents, so don’t be surprised if they bloom somewhere other than where you planted them. Your rodent friends like to dig them up and replant elsewhere to store as food!
4. Pussy Willow
The little fuzzy flowers on these shrubs aren’t bright and showy like a lot of winter bloomers. But they display their considerable charms when winter snow is still on the ground，as a sign that spring is coming.
5.Pansy
Like their relatives, violas, pansies offer brilliant color in early spring. They’ll survive a light frost and bloom for most of the winter in mild climates.
6.Winter Jasmine
This shrub has pretty, yellow flowers on arching branches in late winter. It doesn’t have a fragrance like other types of jasmine, but it does offer a bright splash of sunshine in winter.
7.Cyclamen
These pretty, delicate-looking perennials in pinks, whites, and fuchsia are often sold as houseplants. But in mild climates, they do well as ground covers. They like to be under deciduous trees so they can soak up winter sun.
8.Winter Aconite
These happy little yellow blooms will pop up through the snow. Bonus: Deer and rodents usually leave these alone. Plant these bulbs in fall.
9.Viola
The brightly colored, charming violas are a welcome sight on chilly mornings. In mild climates, they’ll last all winter long. They self-seed freely, so you’ll get more baby plants in subsequent years.
10.Winterberry
When cold weather strikes, this plant bursts with bright red berries that add cheery color to the evergreen shrubs. Clip some to bring for holiday cheer, but beware the sharp leaves!
11.Snowdrop
Adorable, drooping white and green flowers appear in late winter, often while there’s still snow. Plant a bunch of them, and get these bulbs in the ground in fall for winter blooms.
12.Daffodil
Daffodils are usually seen as one of the first signs of spring, they will begin growing as early as February. Don't worry about snow or freezing temperatures harming the foliage, they're extremely cold hardy.
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文章
A🎌王木木💮
2019年11月21日
Everything withered in the cold winter,give a feeling of loneliness.If there are still flowers blooming on the balcony,is spring not far from us?Today we are going to introduce the daffodils that are suitable for growing in winter.
Other common names:daffodil 'Nessa'
Family:Amaryllidaceae
Genus:Narcissus are bulbous herbaceous perennials with linear leaves and leafless stems bearing flowers, which may be solitary or in umbels, with 6 spreading perianth segments and a cup or trumpet-shaped corona
Horticultural Group:Jonquilla and Apodanthus daffodils have very narrow cylindrical leaves and stems with up to 5, usually fragrant, flowers per stem, with spreading perianth segments and a small cup
Details:'Nessa' is a Jonquilla daffodil producing 1-3, strongly scented flowers on each stem in mid-spring. Each 6cm flower comprises yellow, overlapping outer petals surrounding a deeply-ribbed and lightly-frilled, bowl-shaped, orange corona
How to grow
Cultivation Plant at one and a half to two times its own depth in autumn. Will tolerate most soils but prefers moderately fertile, well-drained soil that is constantly moist during the growing season. See daffodil cultivation for further advice
Propagation Propagate by removing offsets as the leaves fade in early summer
Suggested planting locations and garden types Flower borders and beds Cut Flowers Low Maintenance City & Courtyard Gardens Cottage & Informal Garden Patio & Container Plants Wildflower meadow
How to care
PruningDeadhead after flowering and allow the leaves to die down naturally
Pests Susceptible to slugs, narcissus bulb fly, narcissus eelworm, and bulb scale mite
Diseases May be affected by narcissus basal rot, narcissus leaf scorch or daffodil viruses
Other common names:daffodil 'Nessa'
Family:Amaryllidaceae
Genus:Narcissus are bulbous herbaceous perennials with linear leaves and leafless stems bearing flowers, which may be solitary or in umbels, with 6 spreading perianth segments and a cup or trumpet-shaped corona
Horticultural Group:Jonquilla and Apodanthus daffodils have very narrow cylindrical leaves and stems with up to 5, usually fragrant, flowers per stem, with spreading perianth segments and a small cup
Details:'Nessa' is a Jonquilla daffodil producing 1-3, strongly scented flowers on each stem in mid-spring. Each 6cm flower comprises yellow, overlapping outer petals surrounding a deeply-ribbed and lightly-frilled, bowl-shaped, orange corona
How to grow
Cultivation Plant at one and a half to two times its own depth in autumn. Will tolerate most soils but prefers moderately fertile, well-drained soil that is constantly moist during the growing season. See daffodil cultivation for further advice
Propagation Propagate by removing offsets as the leaves fade in early summer
Suggested planting locations and garden types Flower borders and beds Cut Flowers Low Maintenance City & Courtyard Gardens Cottage & Informal Garden Patio & Container Plants Wildflower meadow
How to care
PruningDeadhead after flowering and allow the leaves to die down naturally
Pests Susceptible to slugs, narcissus bulb fly, narcissus eelworm, and bulb scale mite
Diseases May be affected by narcissus basal rot, narcissus leaf scorch or daffodil viruses
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