文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chives are low-maintenance denizens of the herb garden, and they’re handy when you want to snip a few for use in recipes or topping baked potatoes. The only problem is that these easy-to-grow plants aren’t always well behaved and before you know it, they can escape their boundaries and pop up in places where you don’t want them – including your well-tended lawn. Read on for helpful tips for controlling chives and ridding lawns of chive plants.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fusarium oxyporum is the name of a fungus that can affect a wide range of plants. It’s common in vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes, but it’s also a real problem with cacti. Keep reading to learn more about signs of fusarium wilt in cactus plants and methods for treating fusarium on cactus.
What is Cactus Fusarium?
While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants
Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
What is Cactus Fusarium?
While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants
Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Bacterial soft rot disease is an infection that can devastate a crop of fleshy vegetables such as carrots, onions, tomatoes and cucumbers, though it is most widely known for its attacks on potatoes. Soft rot disease is most easily recognized in these vegetables by soft, wet, cream to tan colored flesh surrounded by a dark brown to black ring. When conditions are right, these necrotic spots begin on the outside or skin of the potato and works inward. Initially, there is no odor, but as the soft rot disease progresses, secondary infections invade and the blackened potato emits a foul smell. These symptoms are similar in most other affected plants as well with small, water-soaked, translucent spots on leaves, stems or underground parts.
What is Bacterial Soft Rot?
Soft rot bacteria, or Erwinia cartovorum is, unfortunately, found everywhere. It survives in soil and water sources, even oceans, and is found all over the globe. Almost all commercial crops are affected to some degree by soft rot. Bacteria in the home garden can be introduced by insects, wind blown rain, or leftovers from the previous year’s crop. One of the most common culprits on potatoes is the seed potato itself. The soft rot bacteria can be found on almost all tubers but most commonly affects potatoes. The infection occurs through skin damage due to growth cracks or injury and high soil temperatures combined with excess water provides the perfect growing conditions. Very often, signs of bacterial soft rot will not occur until after harvest. This is largely due to improper handling of the newly harvested potatoes. There is no completely effective soft rot treatment, but there are things you can do to minimize the damage.
Tips for Controlling Soft Rot Bacteria
Once soft rot bacteria have infected plants in the garden, there is no effective treatment. You will need to remove and dispose of infected plants as soon as possible to avoid further damage to other plants. Prevention is key in controlling soft rot bacteria. The following steps can be taken to help avoid this problem in the garden: Avoid wet conditions. Make sure plants are in well-draining soil and properly spaced. Keep track of watering to prevent too much moisture. Rotate crops with rot-resistant vegetables. Crop rotation goes a long way in managing or preventing problems in the garden. When rotating crops, select varieties that are less susceptible to soft rot like corn, snap beans and beets. If you have had previous issues with soft rot disease in the past, wait at least three years before growing susceptible crops in that area. Use caution during garden maintenance. As you go about normal weeding tasks, or even harvesting, take care not to damage plants or veggies. Harvest only when conditions are dry and closely examine vegetables for any signs of problems that may affect storage, which should be in a cool, dry and well ventilated location. Keep the garden and tools clean. Be sure to clean garden tools thoroughly before and after use to avoid spreading any potential disease and always remove any infected/damaged plant debris remaining in your garden once the season is over.
What is Bacterial Soft Rot?
Soft rot bacteria, or Erwinia cartovorum is, unfortunately, found everywhere. It survives in soil and water sources, even oceans, and is found all over the globe. Almost all commercial crops are affected to some degree by soft rot. Bacteria in the home garden can be introduced by insects, wind blown rain, or leftovers from the previous year’s crop. One of the most common culprits on potatoes is the seed potato itself. The soft rot bacteria can be found on almost all tubers but most commonly affects potatoes. The infection occurs through skin damage due to growth cracks or injury and high soil temperatures combined with excess water provides the perfect growing conditions. Very often, signs of bacterial soft rot will not occur until after harvest. This is largely due to improper handling of the newly harvested potatoes. There is no completely effective soft rot treatment, but there are things you can do to minimize the damage.
Tips for Controlling Soft Rot Bacteria
Once soft rot bacteria have infected plants in the garden, there is no effective treatment. You will need to remove and dispose of infected plants as soon as possible to avoid further damage to other plants. Prevention is key in controlling soft rot bacteria. The following steps can be taken to help avoid this problem in the garden: Avoid wet conditions. Make sure plants are in well-draining soil and properly spaced. Keep track of watering to prevent too much moisture. Rotate crops with rot-resistant vegetables. Crop rotation goes a long way in managing or preventing problems in the garden. When rotating crops, select varieties that are less susceptible to soft rot like corn, snap beans and beets. If you have had previous issues with soft rot disease in the past, wait at least three years before growing susceptible crops in that area. Use caution during garden maintenance. As you go about normal weeding tasks, or even harvesting, take care not to damage plants or veggies. Harvest only when conditions are dry and closely examine vegetables for any signs of problems that may affect storage, which should be in a cool, dry and well ventilated location. Keep the garden and tools clean. Be sure to clean garden tools thoroughly before and after use to avoid spreading any potential disease and always remove any infected/damaged plant debris remaining in your garden once the season is over.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Ipomoea batatas
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Sweet potatoes are a good choice for a garden because they are easy to grow, drought- and heat-tolerant, and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is also very nutritious and low in calories.
PLANTING
Sweet potatoes are typically grown from slips, which are sprouts that are grown from stored sweet potatoes. You can buy slips from garden centers, nurseries, or local farmers.
You can also grow your own slips to plant in the spring. In November (this is when the best of the new harvest will be out), go to your supermarket and look for unblemished and uncracked medium-size sweet potatoes. One potato should yield about 12 plants.
Store these potatoes in a well-lit room with a temperature between 65° and 70°F. Keep them there until about 90 days before the last spring frost date. They will then need to be embedded in soil for 90 days and kept continuously warm and moist.
Use a 1-½ gallon pot for every two potatoes. Remember to poke drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and fill it with 3 inches of mulch, followed by garden or potting soil. Plant the potatoes in the pot at a 45° angle so that the sprouts will grow above the soil. When the slips are 6 to 12 inches tall, you can plant them outdoors, as long as all danger of frost has passed.
After you have grown your own slips or bought them, till the area of the garden you will be using to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Create raised mounds 6 to 8 inches tall and about 12 inches wide. Use fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant the slips 12 to 18 inches apart in the bed, after the last spring frost date. Plant the slips deep enough to cover the roots and about ½ inch of the stem. Water the slips with a starter solution that is high in phosphorous, then water generously for a few days to make sure that the plants root well.
CARE
Side-dress the potatoes 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. If you have sandy soil, use 5 pounds.
Hoe the beds occasionally to keep weeds down. Remember to reshape the beds with soil or mulch.
For good harvests, do not prune the vines, because they should be vigorous.
Remember to keep the potatoes watered. Deep watering in hot, dry periods will help to increase yields, although if you are planning to store some of the potatoes, do not give the plants extra water late in the season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Sweet potato scurf
White blister
Fungal leaf rot
Stem rot
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Sweet potatoes are a good choice for a garden because they are easy to grow, drought- and heat-tolerant, and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is also very nutritious and low in calories.
PLANTING
Sweet potatoes are typically grown from slips, which are sprouts that are grown from stored sweet potatoes. You can buy slips from garden centers, nurseries, or local farmers.
You can also grow your own slips to plant in the spring. In November (this is when the best of the new harvest will be out), go to your supermarket and look for unblemished and uncracked medium-size sweet potatoes. One potato should yield about 12 plants.
Store these potatoes in a well-lit room with a temperature between 65° and 70°F. Keep them there until about 90 days before the last spring frost date. They will then need to be embedded in soil for 90 days and kept continuously warm and moist.
Use a 1-½ gallon pot for every two potatoes. Remember to poke drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and fill it with 3 inches of mulch, followed by garden or potting soil. Plant the potatoes in the pot at a 45° angle so that the sprouts will grow above the soil. When the slips are 6 to 12 inches tall, you can plant them outdoors, as long as all danger of frost has passed.
After you have grown your own slips or bought them, till the area of the garden you will be using to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Create raised mounds 6 to 8 inches tall and about 12 inches wide. Use fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant the slips 12 to 18 inches apart in the bed, after the last spring frost date. Plant the slips deep enough to cover the roots and about ½ inch of the stem. Water the slips with a starter solution that is high in phosphorous, then water generously for a few days to make sure that the plants root well.
CARE
Side-dress the potatoes 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. If you have sandy soil, use 5 pounds.
Hoe the beds occasionally to keep weeds down. Remember to reshape the beds with soil or mulch.
For good harvests, do not prune the vines, because they should be vigorous.
Remember to keep the potatoes watered. Deep watering in hot, dry periods will help to increase yields, although if you are planning to store some of the potatoes, do not give the plants extra water late in the season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Sweet potato scurf
White blister
Fungal leaf rot
Stem rot
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum tuberosum
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Acidic
The taste and the texture of home-grown potatoes are far superior to those of store-bought spuds, especially the early varieties. They need a cool climate, and also need to be watched to prevent sunburn. In warmer climate zones, potatoes can be grown as a winter crop.
PLANTING
How to Plant Potatoes
Plant seed potatoes (pieces of whole potato or a small whole potato, with at least 2 eyes per piece) 0-2 weeks after last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
You may start planting earlier, as soon as soil can be worked, but be aware that some crops will be ruined by a frost.
If you are cutting up potato pieces for planting, do so 1-2 days ahead of time. This will give them the chance to “heal” and form a protective layer, both for moisture retention and rot resistance.
Spread and mix in rotted manure or organic compost in the bottom of the trench before planting.
Plant seed potatoes one foot apart in a 4-inch deep trench, eye side up.
Practice yearly crop rotation.
CARE
How to Grow Potatoes
Potatoes thrive in well-drained, loose soil.
Potatoes need consistent moisture, so water regularly when tubers start to form.
Hilling should be done before the potato plants bloom, when the plant is about 6 inches tall. Hoe the dirt up around the base of the plant in order to cover the root as well as to support the plant. Bury them in loose soil.
Hilling keeps the potatoes from getting sunburned, which can cause them to turn green and produce a chemical called solanine. Solanine gives off a bitter taste and is toxic, so do not eat green potatoes.
You will need to hill potatoes every couple of weeks to protect your crop.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Flea Beetles
Leaf Hoppers
Early/Late Blight
Potato Scab: Most likely cause by a high soil pH. Remember: Potatoes like acidic soil (do not plant in soil with a pH higher than 5.2). Dust seed potatoes with sulfur before planting.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Acidic
The taste and the texture of home-grown potatoes are far superior to those of store-bought spuds, especially the early varieties. They need a cool climate, and also need to be watched to prevent sunburn. In warmer climate zones, potatoes can be grown as a winter crop.
PLANTING
How to Plant Potatoes
Plant seed potatoes (pieces of whole potato or a small whole potato, with at least 2 eyes per piece) 0-2 weeks after last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
You may start planting earlier, as soon as soil can be worked, but be aware that some crops will be ruined by a frost.
If you are cutting up potato pieces for planting, do so 1-2 days ahead of time. This will give them the chance to “heal” and form a protective layer, both for moisture retention and rot resistance.
Spread and mix in rotted manure or organic compost in the bottom of the trench before planting.
Plant seed potatoes one foot apart in a 4-inch deep trench, eye side up.
Practice yearly crop rotation.
CARE
How to Grow Potatoes
Potatoes thrive in well-drained, loose soil.
Potatoes need consistent moisture, so water regularly when tubers start to form.
Hilling should be done before the potato plants bloom, when the plant is about 6 inches tall. Hoe the dirt up around the base of the plant in order to cover the root as well as to support the plant. Bury them in loose soil.
Hilling keeps the potatoes from getting sunburned, which can cause them to turn green and produce a chemical called solanine. Solanine gives off a bitter taste and is toxic, so do not eat green potatoes.
You will need to hill potatoes every couple of weeks to protect your crop.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Flea Beetles
Leaf Hoppers
Early/Late Blight
Potato Scab: Most likely cause by a high soil pH. Remember: Potatoes like acidic soil (do not plant in soil with a pH higher than 5.2). Dust seed potatoes with sulfur before planting.
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文章
Andrea
2017年03月27日
Plant potatoes in your home garden and grow one of the most popular vegetables eaten today. Each American eats about 30 pounds of potatoes a year.
To begin growing potatoes, buy certified seed potatoes at nurseries or garden centers. The ones in supermarkets have usually been treated with growth retardants.
Ten to 14 days before planting, place seed potatoes in a warm area so they begin sprouting. Then, a day or two before planting, use a sharp knife to cut the sprouts, or eyes, into pieces. Each piece should contain 2 or 3 eyes. The bigger the piece, the more food the young potato plant will have to start growing.
About a week or two before the last frost date in your area you can plant the potatoes. Select a site that receives full sun.
Dig up the soil so that it’s loose and drains moisture well. Make rows about two and a half to three feet apart. Plant the potato pieces every 15 inches with the cut side down.
Potatoes are susceptible to frost so if they should be growing when frost conditions are imminent cover then with straw or a blanket or other light covering.
As the plants grow, mound additional soil around the plants every week or two. Continue to add soil or mulch or black plastic around the plants throughout the growing season. The potatoes should not be exposed to sunlight or they will obtain a green coloring which is toxic.
Water well throughout the summer. The most critical time is when the plants are flowering and for a short time afterward as that is the time when they are producing the young potatoes. Water in the morning so that the plants dry before nightfall. Potatoes are very susceptible to fungal diseases.
Fertilize every two to four weeks with a good root crop fertilizer.
Potatoes don’t have many pests but the most common one is the potato beetle which can be controlled with vigilance.
When foliage turns yellow and dies back, discontinue watering. The young potatoes will now mature. Harvest follows in about two weeks. But harvesting can occur at any stage of growth for small baby potatoes.
For winter storage let the potatoes dry either outside or in a dry, cool area for a few days.
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文章
Martha
2017年02月17日
Learn how to grow #peanuts in this article. Growing Peanuts in containers is fun as well as easy to do and somewhat similar to #potatoes .
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Arachis hypogaea (Scientific Name), Groundnut
Soil pH— 6 – 6.5
Peanut (Arachis hypogaea) is an annual plant belonging to the Fabaceae family, a legume. It is a hardy plant that requires minimal attention. Peanut, which is also called groundnut contains many trace elements like copper, zinc, manganese and vitamin B and is very nutritious.
How to Grow Peanuts in ContainersPropagation and Planting Peanuts in containers
Fill the seed tray or container with potting soil or potting mix. Sow seeds at the depth of 3 cm. Cover them up with a thin layer of soil. Also note that peanut seeds you obtain for sowing must remain in their shell and you should open them just before planting.
For proper germination and maximum yield, temperature must be above 70 F (21 ° C), 80 F is optimum. After a week or two, the seeds will germinate.
Let the seedlings grow a bit and replant them in individual pots.
If you’re growing peanuts in cooler zone you should remember that peanuts require at least 100 frost free days to mature. You’ll need to start the seeds indoors, earlier, at least 30 days before the final frost date in the spring.
Choosing Containers
Peanut develops its pod from 5 to 10 cm under the ground. So select pot at least 30 cm deep and 40 – 50 cm. wide (1 feet deep and 1 – 2 feet wide). Make sure the pots have sufficient drainage holes. You can grow 2 – 3 plants in such a pot.
Requirements for Growing Peanuts in ContainersPosition
Peanut is a tropical plant, it loves to grow in slightly humid and warm conditions. When growing peanuts in containers place them in the sunniest but less windy spot of your balcony or terrace. The plant does not survive below 32 F (0 ° C). It flowers and fruits at a temperature between 70 – 95 F (20 to 35 ° C).
Soil
For growing peanuts in containers fertile and light soil is required, which is neutral in pH and well-drained. Best to buy a good quality organic potting mix or make your own.
Watering
When growing peanuts in pots, keep the soil slightly moist. During early growth and flowering period, increase watering. However, the plant tolerates short dry periods.
Peanut Plant CareEarthing up
The base of the peanut plant should be covered with soil to increase production. Once the plant reaches 10 inches of height earthen up the soil around the base, as is the case of potatoes, so as to favor the development of the pods.
Fertilizer
Initially it will not need any type of fertilization, but when you see the first yellow flowers forming, it is then useful to help the plant with the organic fertilizer that is rich in phosphorus and potassium as peanuts are legumes and form their own nitrogen you don’t need to fertilize them with additional nitrogen fertilizer.
Pests and Diseases
The most common diseases in addition to molds and fungi are leaf spots. In pests it is attacked by aphids, potato leafhopper and spider mites.
Harvesting PeanutsWhen and How to Harvest Peanuts?
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Arachis hypogaea (Scientific Name), Groundnut
Soil pH— 6 – 6.5
Peanut (Arachis hypogaea) is an annual plant belonging to the Fabaceae family, a legume. It is a hardy plant that requires minimal attention. Peanut, which is also called groundnut contains many trace elements like copper, zinc, manganese and vitamin B and is very nutritious.
How to Grow Peanuts in ContainersPropagation and Planting Peanuts in containers
Fill the seed tray or container with potting soil or potting mix. Sow seeds at the depth of 3 cm. Cover them up with a thin layer of soil. Also note that peanut seeds you obtain for sowing must remain in their shell and you should open them just before planting.
For proper germination and maximum yield, temperature must be above 70 F (21 ° C), 80 F is optimum. After a week or two, the seeds will germinate.
Let the seedlings grow a bit and replant them in individual pots.
If you’re growing peanuts in cooler zone you should remember that peanuts require at least 100 frost free days to mature. You’ll need to start the seeds indoors, earlier, at least 30 days before the final frost date in the spring.
Choosing Containers
Peanut develops its pod from 5 to 10 cm under the ground. So select pot at least 30 cm deep and 40 – 50 cm. wide (1 feet deep and 1 – 2 feet wide). Make sure the pots have sufficient drainage holes. You can grow 2 – 3 plants in such a pot.
Requirements for Growing Peanuts in ContainersPosition
Peanut is a tropical plant, it loves to grow in slightly humid and warm conditions. When growing peanuts in containers place them in the sunniest but less windy spot of your balcony or terrace. The plant does not survive below 32 F (0 ° C). It flowers and fruits at a temperature between 70 – 95 F (20 to 35 ° C).
Soil
For growing peanuts in containers fertile and light soil is required, which is neutral in pH and well-drained. Best to buy a good quality organic potting mix or make your own.
Watering
When growing peanuts in pots, keep the soil slightly moist. During early growth and flowering period, increase watering. However, the plant tolerates short dry periods.
Peanut Plant CareEarthing up
The base of the peanut plant should be covered with soil to increase production. Once the plant reaches 10 inches of height earthen up the soil around the base, as is the case of potatoes, so as to favor the development of the pods.
Fertilizer
Initially it will not need any type of fertilization, but when you see the first yellow flowers forming, it is then useful to help the plant with the organic fertilizer that is rich in phosphorus and potassium as peanuts are legumes and form their own nitrogen you don’t need to fertilize them with additional nitrogen fertilizer.
Pests and Diseases
The most common diseases in addition to molds and fungi are leaf spots. In pests it is attacked by aphids, potato leafhopper and spider mites.
Harvesting PeanutsWhen and How to Harvest Peanuts?
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