文章
ritau
2020年02月19日
Many related plants also share the name "daisy", so to distinguish this species from other daisies it is sometimes qualified as common daisy, lawn daisy or English daisy. Historically, it has also been commonly known as bruisewort and occasionally woundwort (although the common name woundwort is now more closely associated with Stachys). Bellis perennis is native to western, central and northern Europe, but widely naturalised in most temperate regions including the Americas and Australasia.
It is a perennial herbaceous plant with short creeping rhizomes and rosettes of small rounded or spoon-shaped leaves that are from 3/4 to 2 inches (approx. 2-5 cm) long and grow flat to the ground. The species habitually colonises lawns, and is difficult to eradicate by mowing – hence the term 'lawn daisy'. Wherever it appears it is often considered an invasive weed.
The flowerheads are composite, in the form of a pseudanthium, consisting of many sessile flowers about 3/4 to 1-1/4 in (approx. 2-3 cm) in diameter, with white ray florets (often tipped red) and yellow disc florets. Each inflorescence is borne on single leafless stems 3/4 – 4 in (approx. 2-10 cm), rarely 6 in (approx. 15 cm) tall. The capitulum, or disc of florets, is surrounded by two rows of green bracts known as "phyllaries". The achenes are without pappus.
Bellis perennis generally blooms from early to midsummer, although when grown under ideal conditions, it has a very long flowering season and will even produce a few flowers in the middle of mild winters.
It can generally be grown in USDA Zones 4 – 8 (i.e. where minimum temperatures are above −30 °F (−34 °C)) in full sun to partial shade conditions, and requires low or no maintenance. It has no known serious insect or disease problems and can generally be grown in most well-drained soils. The plant may be propagated either by seed after the last frost, or by division after flowering.
Though invasive, the species is still considered a valuable ground cover in certain garden settings (e.g., as part of English or cottage inspired gardens, as well as spring meadows where low growth and some color is desired in parallel with minimal care and maintenance while helping to crowd out noxious weeds once established and naturalised).
Numerous single- and double-flowered varieties are in cultivation, producing flat or spherical blooms in a range of sizes (1 cm to 6 cm) and colours (red, pink & white). They are generally grown from seed as biennial bedding plants. They can also be purchased as plugs in Spring. The cultivar 'Tasso series' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
It has been reported to be mostly self-fertilizing, but some plants may be self-sterile.
It is a perennial herbaceous plant with short creeping rhizomes and rosettes of small rounded or spoon-shaped leaves that are from 3/4 to 2 inches (approx. 2-5 cm) long and grow flat to the ground. The species habitually colonises lawns, and is difficult to eradicate by mowing – hence the term 'lawn daisy'. Wherever it appears it is often considered an invasive weed.
The flowerheads are composite, in the form of a pseudanthium, consisting of many sessile flowers about 3/4 to 1-1/4 in (approx. 2-3 cm) in diameter, with white ray florets (often tipped red) and yellow disc florets. Each inflorescence is borne on single leafless stems 3/4 – 4 in (approx. 2-10 cm), rarely 6 in (approx. 15 cm) tall. The capitulum, or disc of florets, is surrounded by two rows of green bracts known as "phyllaries". The achenes are without pappus.
Bellis perennis generally blooms from early to midsummer, although when grown under ideal conditions, it has a very long flowering season and will even produce a few flowers in the middle of mild winters.
It can generally be grown in USDA Zones 4 – 8 (i.e. where minimum temperatures are above −30 °F (−34 °C)) in full sun to partial shade conditions, and requires low or no maintenance. It has no known serious insect or disease problems and can generally be grown in most well-drained soils. The plant may be propagated either by seed after the last frost, or by division after flowering.
Though invasive, the species is still considered a valuable ground cover in certain garden settings (e.g., as part of English or cottage inspired gardens, as well as spring meadows where low growth and some color is desired in parallel with minimal care and maintenance while helping to crowd out noxious weeds once established and naturalised).
Numerous single- and double-flowered varieties are in cultivation, producing flat or spherical blooms in a range of sizes (1 cm to 6 cm) and colours (red, pink & white). They are generally grown from seed as biennial bedding plants. They can also be purchased as plugs in Spring. The cultivar 'Tasso series' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
It has been reported to be mostly self-fertilizing, but some plants may be self-sterile.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
graf 4
Most people are only familiar with the top heavy doubles which tend to flop in the wind or rain, and explode all over when the blossoms age. For some people this is unsightly and for others the masses of petals dappling the lawn is beauty itself and natural. For those who do not like the bad habits of the heavy peonies, there are singles, beautiful semi-doubles, anemone, Japanese and new doubles bred specifically with strong upright stems, available. It is a matter of searching for the right variety to fit your taste and garden style.
staking grafs 1-2
Each person has their own method for staking peony plants, some work, others not so well. The longer stems of many peonies, especially the heavy doubles, will blow down by the time the flowers are fully open. This habit often keeps people from purchasing and enjoying these beautiful and often lovely scented plants which is a shame.
Peony staking need not be a chore. I stay away from peony rings as I find them often disappointing in their ability to hold up the plant. For me, I use the method suggested by Allan Rogers in his informative book "PEONIES". He advises a single pass of heavy-duty garden twine around the plant, about a foot from the top, after the buds are enlarging in size. This gives sufficient support, tie snuggly but do not cinch in too tight as this affects both the look of the plant form and may damage the stems. Alternatively two lines, one twelve inches from the top and the other twelve inches below that. This method works for me and I find it is quick to apply. The twine is biodegradable so in the fall it is cleaned up and discarded with the foliage.
Peonies. Their voluptuous blooms often drag these bushy plants down, especially after rain. The best cure is a peony cage, a sort of grid on stilts that you install over the early shoots in spring. The stems will grow up through the spaces of the grid so it supports the plant when the blooms get heavy.
graf 4
Grow-through grids are invaluable, and if they were made in enough sizes, they would solve most staking problems. For robust, clump-forming plants, like peonies ( Paeonia spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 3–8), Siberian irises ( Iris cvs., Zones 3–9), globe thistles ( Echinops spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), coneflowers ( Rudbeckia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–11), and ornamental grasses, they are the ideal form of support. Their evenly spaced tic-tac-toe pattern of steel rods allows two or three stems to grow through each opening. Grow-through grids come in different shapes—round, square, or rectangular—with legs that are 18 inches to 3 feet tall. Most are made of stout steel wire coated in green plastic, which makes them virtually invisible if properly installed
For the best results, set the grid a few inches above a plant early in the season, before the leaves mature. Attach the legs one at a time—they hook around the rim of the grid—and push them into the ground. Space the legs equidistant from each other if possible. When well placed and installed at the right time of year, the grid will disappear completely beneath the expanding foliage. You will have to revisit the plant periodically during the season and, in some cases, raise the grid and replace the legs with longer ones to keep pace with new growth.
Most people are only familiar with the top heavy doubles which tend to flop in the wind or rain, and explode all over when the blossoms age. For some people this is unsightly and for others the masses of petals dappling the lawn is beauty itself and natural. For those who do not like the bad habits of the heavy peonies, there are singles, beautiful semi-doubles, anemone, Japanese and new doubles bred specifically with strong upright stems, available. It is a matter of searching for the right variety to fit your taste and garden style.
staking grafs 1-2
Each person has their own method for staking peony plants, some work, others not so well. The longer stems of many peonies, especially the heavy doubles, will blow down by the time the flowers are fully open. This habit often keeps people from purchasing and enjoying these beautiful and often lovely scented plants which is a shame.
Peony staking need not be a chore. I stay away from peony rings as I find them often disappointing in their ability to hold up the plant. For me, I use the method suggested by Allan Rogers in his informative book "PEONIES". He advises a single pass of heavy-duty garden twine around the plant, about a foot from the top, after the buds are enlarging in size. This gives sufficient support, tie snuggly but do not cinch in too tight as this affects both the look of the plant form and may damage the stems. Alternatively two lines, one twelve inches from the top and the other twelve inches below that. This method works for me and I find it is quick to apply. The twine is biodegradable so in the fall it is cleaned up and discarded with the foliage.
Peonies. Their voluptuous blooms often drag these bushy plants down, especially after rain. The best cure is a peony cage, a sort of grid on stilts that you install over the early shoots in spring. The stems will grow up through the spaces of the grid so it supports the plant when the blooms get heavy.
graf 4
Grow-through grids are invaluable, and if they were made in enough sizes, they would solve most staking problems. For robust, clump-forming plants, like peonies ( Paeonia spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 3–8), Siberian irises ( Iris cvs., Zones 3–9), globe thistles ( Echinops spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), coneflowers ( Rudbeckia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–11), and ornamental grasses, they are the ideal form of support. Their evenly spaced tic-tac-toe pattern of steel rods allows two or three stems to grow through each opening. Grow-through grids come in different shapes—round, square, or rectangular—with legs that are 18 inches to 3 feet tall. Most are made of stout steel wire coated in green plastic, which makes them virtually invisible if properly installed
For the best results, set the grid a few inches above a plant early in the season, before the leaves mature. Attach the legs one at a time—they hook around the rim of the grid—and push them into the ground. Space the legs equidistant from each other if possible. When well placed and installed at the right time of year, the grid will disappear completely beneath the expanding foliage. You will have to revisit the plant periodically during the season and, in some cases, raise the grid and replace the legs with longer ones to keep pace with new growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
Lawn-grass professionals divide the United States into four main zones of grass adaptation based on climatic conditions. The Northeast region of the country falls into what's known as the cool, humid zone. Lawn grasses that do best in the Northeast are hardy, cool-season grasses that tolerate humidity in addition to cold.
Because most lawns have areas that vary in moisture as well as sun and shade exposure, a mixture of cool-season grasses normally delivers the best overall lawn. Using a mixture allows different, complementary grass types to dominate in various areas and conditions that fit them best. The major perennial lawn grasses that flourish in cool, humid Northeast conditions are:
Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 6. Although slow to establish from seed, Kentucky bluegrass spreads vigorously via underground stems known as rhizomes once it gets settled into sunny lawns. That spreading behavior also helps it repair itself when damaged by foot traffic or other injuries. Known for its green color and fine texture, Kentucky bluegrass flourishes in cool temperatures with the consistent soil moisture common in Northeast lawns.
Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne, USDA zones 3 through 6), which establishes quickly and greens up fast in spring, making it a welcome complement to Kentucky bluegrass. Some perennial ryegrass varieties have improved longevity over older, traditional varieties and offer a finer texture that mixes well with other cool-season grasses. This versatile lawn grass tolerates sun exposure, some shade and adapts well to changing Northeast conditions, but it does not tolerate overly wet soil.
Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea, USDA zones 4 through 7), once considered only forage pasture grass but recognized by
turf breeders for its potential as a resilient lawn grass. Fairly new varieties known as turf-type fescues retain tall fescue's clumping growth habit and its ability to thrive in poor, droughty soil. Deep-rooted, turf-type tall fescues stand up well to foot traffic and bring Northeast lawns improved texture, color and drought tolerance.
Fine fescues (Festuca spp.), such as creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra var. rubra, USDA zones 3 through 7). They excel in well-drained shade and dry areas that challenge other Northeast lawn grasses. Although these low-maintenance lawn grasses establish faster than Kentucky bluegrass, they don't tolerate the wear and tear that tall fescues can. So they work best when confined to low foot-traffic areas.
Bentgrass (Agrostis spp., USDA zones 4 through 6), historically the grass favored on golf-course greens. Newer varieties have increased the use of bentgrass by homeowners looking for dense, cushiony, golf-greenlike turf -- or a backyard putting green. Spread by above-ground stems, known as stolons, bentgrass offers a low-growth habit, fine texture and rich-green color. Bentgrass thrives in the Northeast's cool, humid climate and fertile soil.
Because most lawns have areas that vary in moisture as well as sun and shade exposure, a mixture of cool-season grasses normally delivers the best overall lawn. Using a mixture allows different, complementary grass types to dominate in various areas and conditions that fit them best. The major perennial lawn grasses that flourish in cool, humid Northeast conditions are:
Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 6. Although slow to establish from seed, Kentucky bluegrass spreads vigorously via underground stems known as rhizomes once it gets settled into sunny lawns. That spreading behavior also helps it repair itself when damaged by foot traffic or other injuries. Known for its green color and fine texture, Kentucky bluegrass flourishes in cool temperatures with the consistent soil moisture common in Northeast lawns.
Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne, USDA zones 3 through 6), which establishes quickly and greens up fast in spring, making it a welcome complement to Kentucky bluegrass. Some perennial ryegrass varieties have improved longevity over older, traditional varieties and offer a finer texture that mixes well with other cool-season grasses. This versatile lawn grass tolerates sun exposure, some shade and adapts well to changing Northeast conditions, but it does not tolerate overly wet soil.
Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea, USDA zones 4 through 7), once considered only forage pasture grass but recognized by
turf breeders for its potential as a resilient lawn grass. Fairly new varieties known as turf-type fescues retain tall fescue's clumping growth habit and its ability to thrive in poor, droughty soil. Deep-rooted, turf-type tall fescues stand up well to foot traffic and bring Northeast lawns improved texture, color and drought tolerance.
Fine fescues (Festuca spp.), such as creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra var. rubra, USDA zones 3 through 7). They excel in well-drained shade and dry areas that challenge other Northeast lawn grasses. Although these low-maintenance lawn grasses establish faster than Kentucky bluegrass, they don't tolerate the wear and tear that tall fescues can. So they work best when confined to low foot-traffic areas.
Bentgrass (Agrostis spp., USDA zones 4 through 6), historically the grass favored on golf-course greens. Newer varieties have increased the use of bentgrass by homeowners looking for dense, cushiony, golf-greenlike turf -- or a backyard putting green. Spread by above-ground stems, known as stolons, bentgrass offers a low-growth habit, fine texture and rich-green color. Bentgrass thrives in the Northeast's cool, humid climate and fertile soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月05日
Mushrooms are the product or fruit of fungus-infested soil and can produce rather quickly taking over a lawn. The fungus feeds off decaying substances in the soil, such as old rotting mulch, dying tree stumps and animal feces. Removal of lawn mushrooms can be difficult, once the fungus has infested a large portion of the yard. Chemical products are one way to rid the yard of the mushrooms and fungus, but are more likely to work once the matter the fungus is feeding on is removed.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月01日
Mushrooms are collectibles and mushroom hunting is a venerable pastime. The fungi grow in woods on rotting logs, in the middle of a green lawn overnight and on clumps of decomposing cow dung in pastures. For thousands of years, people have been finding and consuming mushrooms for their taste, nutritional value and sometimes for their psychotropic effects. The mushrooms that grow on cow dung cover the spectrum from common edibles to exotic hallucinogens.
Edible
About 3,000 of the known 14,000 types of mushrooms are edible and one of the most common edible mushrooms is the simple 'button" mushroom, the Agaricus bisporus. Today those mushrooms are grown as a commercial cash crop in China and farmers use compost on bamboo shelves with steam humidity to force the fungi to grow. The compost can be made of easily obtained local materials and one simple mix is a base of paddy straw mixed with cow dung. In the U.S. button mushroom farmers use composts of decomposing plant matter with horse or poultry manure. White button mushrooms are sold fresh, canned, pickled and marinated and in soups and sauces.
Inedible
Mushrooms are fungi and some of them are highly poisonous, so it is safest to consume market mushrooms from a reputable source. The Cyathus striatus is one you should photograph and leave in the field. The mushrooms are brownish to reddish-brown on the exterior and black inside, under the cap. Younger Cyathus striatus are slightly shaggy or hairy looking but the cone-shaped caps smooth out with maturity. They grow very densely in North America on organic debris, all kinds of dung including cow patties, on wood chips, sawdust and even on soil that has been fertilized with manure. Their season is July through October and they should not be eaten so, if you stumble across them on a mushroom hunt, keep searching.
Illegal
The most famous cow dung fungi are members of the Psilocybe cubensis family – so-called psychedelic mushrooms or 'shrooms. They spring up all over the world where cattle have been grazing and prefer to grow directly on cow patties, most often those that are decomposing in the field. The 'shrooms grow in warm climates and appear from February to November. They have large yellow-brown caps that lighten as they mature and when bruised they turn blue. Their spores are spread by cattle egrets, Crested Caracara birds, the wind and by the feet of humans and cattle moving around the field. Traditionally, native tribes used, and still use, hallucinogenic mushrooms in rituals and P. cubensis is the most widely cultivated and consumed of the psychedelics. The mushrooms were extremely popular in the sixties and people still hunt for them at night in cattle pastures. It is illegal to possess P. cubensis in the United States.
Edible
About 3,000 of the known 14,000 types of mushrooms are edible and one of the most common edible mushrooms is the simple 'button" mushroom, the Agaricus bisporus. Today those mushrooms are grown as a commercial cash crop in China and farmers use compost on bamboo shelves with steam humidity to force the fungi to grow. The compost can be made of easily obtained local materials and one simple mix is a base of paddy straw mixed with cow dung. In the U.S. button mushroom farmers use composts of decomposing plant matter with horse or poultry manure. White button mushrooms are sold fresh, canned, pickled and marinated and in soups and sauces.
Inedible
Mushrooms are fungi and some of them are highly poisonous, so it is safest to consume market mushrooms from a reputable source. The Cyathus striatus is one you should photograph and leave in the field. The mushrooms are brownish to reddish-brown on the exterior and black inside, under the cap. Younger Cyathus striatus are slightly shaggy or hairy looking but the cone-shaped caps smooth out with maturity. They grow very densely in North America on organic debris, all kinds of dung including cow patties, on wood chips, sawdust and even on soil that has been fertilized with manure. Their season is July through October and they should not be eaten so, if you stumble across them on a mushroom hunt, keep searching.
Illegal
The most famous cow dung fungi are members of the Psilocybe cubensis family – so-called psychedelic mushrooms or 'shrooms. They spring up all over the world where cattle have been grazing and prefer to grow directly on cow patties, most often those that are decomposing in the field. The 'shrooms grow in warm climates and appear from February to November. They have large yellow-brown caps that lighten as they mature and when bruised they turn blue. Their spores are spread by cattle egrets, Crested Caracara birds, the wind and by the feet of humans and cattle moving around the field. Traditionally, native tribes used, and still use, hallucinogenic mushrooms in rituals and P. cubensis is the most widely cultivated and consumed of the psychedelics. The mushrooms were extremely popular in the sixties and people still hunt for them at night in cattle pastures. It is illegal to possess P. cubensis in the United States.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月28日
Mushrooms are the product or fruit of fungus-infested soil and can produce rather quickly taking over a lawn. The fungus feeds off decaying substances in the soil, such as old rotting mulch, dying tree stumps and animal feces. Removal of lawn mushrooms can be difficult, once the fungus has infested a large portion of the yard. Chemical products are one way to rid the yard of the mushrooms and fungus, but are more likely to work once the matter the fungus is feeding on is removed.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月27日
Mushrooms are the product or fruit of fungus-infested soil and can produce rather quickly taking over a lawn. The fungus feeds off decaying substances in the soil, such as old rotting mulch, dying tree stumps and animal feces. Removal of lawn mushrooms can be difficult, once the fungus has infested a large portion of the yard. Chemical products are one way to rid the yard of the mushrooms and fungus, but are more likely to work once the matter the fungus is feeding on is removed.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Crabgrass is an annual grassy lawn weed that spreads along the ground creating a dense mat that smothers desirable grasses. It was introduced from Eurasia and is widespread throughout the United States.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
There are three crabgrass species commonly found as weeds in lawns - hairy crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis), southern crabgrass (Digitaria ciliaris) and smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum). All three species are pale green, have a prostrate or ascending growth habit, and have flat 5-10 mm wide blades. The seed heads have 2-6 branches with 2 rows of seeds along each branch. Crabgrass may be found in a wide variety of landscape settings but grows best in full sun.
Life Cycle
Crabgrass is a warm season annual grass that overwinters as seeds and germinates when soil temperatures in mid spring consistently remain at 50 to 55 degrees for a number of days in a row. Seeds can continue to germinate throughout the summer if soil temperatures and moisture conditions are adequate. It grows during the heat of summer, sets seeds and is killed by the first frost.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Practice good cultural techniques to keep lawns healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Cool season grasses fertilized in the fall and mid to late spring will go into mid-summer dormancy later and will compete better with the crabgrass.
2. Set the lawnmower at 3 inches high. Taller grass will shade the soil and decrease the germination rate of crabgrass seeds.
3. Pull crabgrass plants before they set seed. One plant can produce 150,000 seeds.
4. Overseed existing cool season lawns in the fall. A thick turf in the spring will shade the lawn, retard seed germination and better compete with any germinating weed plants.
5. Apply corn gluten meal herbicide about two to three weeks before crabgrass seeds begin to germinate. In Missouri, this would be between mid March to mid April or about the time when forsythia first begins to bloom. Corn gluten will inhibit the germination of turf grass seeds and should not be used within six weeks of reseeding a lawn. Corn gluten is only about 65% effective compared to synthetic products but is an organic control.
6. Apply a pre-emergent crabgrass herbicide about two weeks before crabgrass seeds begin to germinate. In mid-Missouri, this would be between mid March to mid April or about the time when forsythia first begins to bloom. Applying a pre-emergent herbicide after the crabgrass has begun to germinate will not provide good control but may inhibit seedlings at the 2-leaf stage or seeds that are slower to germinate. Products that combine pre-emergent herbicides and fertilizer are not recommended. Read and follow label directions carefully.
7. Apply a post-emergent crabgrass herbicide if a pre-emergent herbicide was not used or if it was ineffective and control is warranted in early summer. Read and follow label directions carefully.
8. Do nothing in late summer. Crabgrass is an annual grass that will be killed by frost. Applying a post-emergent herbicide in late summer may not be warranted as the first frost will kill it. Next year apply a pre-emergent in early spring to prevent new seedlings.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1 - 5 are strictly organic approaches.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
There are three crabgrass species commonly found as weeds in lawns - hairy crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis), southern crabgrass (Digitaria ciliaris) and smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum). All three species are pale green, have a prostrate or ascending growth habit, and have flat 5-10 mm wide blades. The seed heads have 2-6 branches with 2 rows of seeds along each branch. Crabgrass may be found in a wide variety of landscape settings but grows best in full sun.
Life Cycle
Crabgrass is a warm season annual grass that overwinters as seeds and germinates when soil temperatures in mid spring consistently remain at 50 to 55 degrees for a number of days in a row. Seeds can continue to germinate throughout the summer if soil temperatures and moisture conditions are adequate. It grows during the heat of summer, sets seeds and is killed by the first frost.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Practice good cultural techniques to keep lawns healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Cool season grasses fertilized in the fall and mid to late spring will go into mid-summer dormancy later and will compete better with the crabgrass.
2. Set the lawnmower at 3 inches high. Taller grass will shade the soil and decrease the germination rate of crabgrass seeds.
3. Pull crabgrass plants before they set seed. One plant can produce 150,000 seeds.
4. Overseed existing cool season lawns in the fall. A thick turf in the spring will shade the lawn, retard seed germination and better compete with any germinating weed plants.
5. Apply corn gluten meal herbicide about two to three weeks before crabgrass seeds begin to germinate. In Missouri, this would be between mid March to mid April or about the time when forsythia first begins to bloom. Corn gluten will inhibit the germination of turf grass seeds and should not be used within six weeks of reseeding a lawn. Corn gluten is only about 65% effective compared to synthetic products but is an organic control.
6. Apply a pre-emergent crabgrass herbicide about two weeks before crabgrass seeds begin to germinate. In mid-Missouri, this would be between mid March to mid April or about the time when forsythia first begins to bloom. Applying a pre-emergent herbicide after the crabgrass has begun to germinate will not provide good control but may inhibit seedlings at the 2-leaf stage or seeds that are slower to germinate. Products that combine pre-emergent herbicides and fertilizer are not recommended. Read and follow label directions carefully.
7. Apply a post-emergent crabgrass herbicide if a pre-emergent herbicide was not used or if it was ineffective and control is warranted in early summer. Read and follow label directions carefully.
8. Do nothing in late summer. Crabgrass is an annual grass that will be killed by frost. Applying a post-emergent herbicide in late summer may not be warranted as the first frost will kill it. Next year apply a pre-emergent in early spring to prevent new seedlings.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1 - 5 are strictly organic approaches.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Mushrooms growing in lawns are common occurrences especially during rainy weather. They live off decaying organic matter in the soil, often decaying tree roots, and are not harmful to the lawn. They will naturally disappear as they age or they may be collected and composted, knocked down with a rake or hoe, or mowed over with your lawnmower. Mushrooms should never be collected and eaten unless you are expert in their identification. To the novice gardener, many poisonous mushrooms can look very similar to edible ones. Don’t take a chance.
Mushrooms that develop in a ring in the lawn are called fairy rings. They will be the focus of the remainder of this sheet.
Fairy rings are caused by many different soilinhabiting fungi of the class Basidiomycetes. These fungi can cause the development of rings or arcs of deep green grass as well as unthrifty or dead grass.
Fairy ring fungi do not attack grass directly, but break down organic matter in the soil. As a result, nitrogen is released which the grass uses, causing it to grow and develop a contrasting green ring. In cases where the mycelia of the fungus get very dense and inhibit water movement into the soil, grass in the arc may turn brown. Mycelia may also deplete soil nutrients and produce toxic levels of hydrogen cyanide. The mushrooms that appear after rainfall are the fruiting bodies of the fungus.
The organic matter fairy rings break down is often old tree stumps, roots, logs, lumber, and other larger pieces of organic material in the soil below the lawn. Once this material is depleted, the fairy ring will disappear. This may take considerable time. Several fairy rings may appear relatively close together, especially on lawns that exist on sites that were previously wooded areas. When this occurs, it becomes noticeable that fairy rings do not cross each other, as fungal activity ceases when fungi from different rings contact each other.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Dark green circles, arcs, or rings of thick, fastgrowing grass develop anytime from green-up in the spring (most common) until the first hard frost in the fall. These rings are most commonly between 2 and 15 feet in diameter, although they may be larger or smaller. Mushrooms or puffballs may appear under wet conditions in the same ring pattern. In some cases, a ring of brown or dead grass may appear.
Life Cycle
Approximately 50 species of fungi are known to form fairy rings in turf, with Marasmius oreades, Agaricus campestris, Lycoperdon spp., and Scleroderma spp. being the most common. These fungi decompose organic debris in the soil and thatch.
Fairy ring starts from a piece of mycelium or spore at a single point feeding in the thatch layer or on soil organic matter. The uniform outward growth of the fungus results in the development of rings.
Under certain conditions, and with certain fairy ring fungi, a ring of dead grass develops. Some of the responsible fungi have been shown to penetrate and kill root cells resulting in dead rings of grass. In addition, the mycelia of some fairy ring fungi are reported to be hydrophobic, creating a waterimpervious layer resulting in drought-stress problems for the grass. Once the soil under this mycelial layer becomes dry, it is very difficult to wet, and the roots of the grass plant die.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Fertilizer. Use of a nitrogen fertilizer can mask the symptoms of fairy ring by causing the rest of the lawn to green up. Using a soil needle (deep root feeder) to aerate and irrigate dead and dying rings is recommended.
2. Removal. Fairy ring development can be traced to buried organic debris. Undecomposed tree roots, wood scraps from construction projects, and other organic debris are commonly colonized by the fairy ring fungi and should be removed before establishing a new lawn. Use clean, ring-free sod for a new or renovated lawn.
Destroying existing turf may be required in persistent cases. Discard or kill a strip of sod 1 to 2 feet wide on each side of the zone of lush turf with a non-selective herbicide. Cultivate the area repeatedly to thoroughly mix the ring and nonring soil. Eliminate dry spots by soaking the cultivated area with water. Reseed or install clean, ring-free sod.
3. Thatch. Eliminate thatch buildup with a dethatching program.
4. Fungicides. Some fungicides are available for suppression of fairy ring, however, they may be only temporary as the decaying material may still be present.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 2 and 3 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
Mushrooms that develop in a ring in the lawn are called fairy rings. They will be the focus of the remainder of this sheet.
Fairy rings are caused by many different soilinhabiting fungi of the class Basidiomycetes. These fungi can cause the development of rings or arcs of deep green grass as well as unthrifty or dead grass.
Fairy ring fungi do not attack grass directly, but break down organic matter in the soil. As a result, nitrogen is released which the grass uses, causing it to grow and develop a contrasting green ring. In cases where the mycelia of the fungus get very dense and inhibit water movement into the soil, grass in the arc may turn brown. Mycelia may also deplete soil nutrients and produce toxic levels of hydrogen cyanide. The mushrooms that appear after rainfall are the fruiting bodies of the fungus.
The organic matter fairy rings break down is often old tree stumps, roots, logs, lumber, and other larger pieces of organic material in the soil below the lawn. Once this material is depleted, the fairy ring will disappear. This may take considerable time. Several fairy rings may appear relatively close together, especially on lawns that exist on sites that were previously wooded areas. When this occurs, it becomes noticeable that fairy rings do not cross each other, as fungal activity ceases when fungi from different rings contact each other.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Dark green circles, arcs, or rings of thick, fastgrowing grass develop anytime from green-up in the spring (most common) until the first hard frost in the fall. These rings are most commonly between 2 and 15 feet in diameter, although they may be larger or smaller. Mushrooms or puffballs may appear under wet conditions in the same ring pattern. In some cases, a ring of brown or dead grass may appear.
Life Cycle
Approximately 50 species of fungi are known to form fairy rings in turf, with Marasmius oreades, Agaricus campestris, Lycoperdon spp., and Scleroderma spp. being the most common. These fungi decompose organic debris in the soil and thatch.
Fairy ring starts from a piece of mycelium or spore at a single point feeding in the thatch layer or on soil organic matter. The uniform outward growth of the fungus results in the development of rings.
Under certain conditions, and with certain fairy ring fungi, a ring of dead grass develops. Some of the responsible fungi have been shown to penetrate and kill root cells resulting in dead rings of grass. In addition, the mycelia of some fairy ring fungi are reported to be hydrophobic, creating a waterimpervious layer resulting in drought-stress problems for the grass. Once the soil under this mycelial layer becomes dry, it is very difficult to wet, and the roots of the grass plant die.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Fertilizer. Use of a nitrogen fertilizer can mask the symptoms of fairy ring by causing the rest of the lawn to green up. Using a soil needle (deep root feeder) to aerate and irrigate dead and dying rings is recommended.
2. Removal. Fairy ring development can be traced to buried organic debris. Undecomposed tree roots, wood scraps from construction projects, and other organic debris are commonly colonized by the fairy ring fungi and should be removed before establishing a new lawn. Use clean, ring-free sod for a new or renovated lawn.
Destroying existing turf may be required in persistent cases. Discard or kill a strip of sod 1 to 2 feet wide on each side of the zone of lush turf with a non-selective herbicide. Cultivate the area repeatedly to thoroughly mix the ring and nonring soil. Eliminate dry spots by soaking the cultivated area with water. Reseed or install clean, ring-free sod.
3. Thatch. Eliminate thatch buildup with a dethatching program.
4. Fungicides. Some fungicides are available for suppression of fairy ring, however, they may be only temporary as the decaying material may still be present.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 2 and 3 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Several fungal diseases attack lawn grasses. Following is a short description of the most common diseases to help you sort out which one may be causing your problem. The diseases have been categorized as patches (cause dead spots or patches in the lawn), rings (cause rings of dead or affected grass), or leaf blight (affect individual blades of grass, often over a wide area and no distinct patch or ring pattern may be noticeable). Since most grass diseases affect leaves, patches and rings describe certain diseases in more advanced stages of development.
Result in Dead Spots or Patches
BROWN PATCH (Rhizoctonia solani) Round patches of turf up to several feet in diameter appear watersoaked and eventually turn brown. Dark gray smoke ring is sometimes visible on lower mowed turf.
DOLLAR SPOT (Moellerodiscus spp. & Lanzia spp. or Sclerotinia homeocarpa) Rounded, straw-colored, slightly sunken patches up to 2 inches in diameter on bentgrass greens, 4–6 inches in diameter on other lawns. Spots have a reddish margin and expand until they girdle the leaf blade. Cottony mycelium may be evident in the morning growing over dead tissue.
RED THREAD (Laetisaria fuciformis) Pinkish patches from 3 to 15 inches in diameter develop during rainy weather. The grass in the patches is pink and dead and contains coral-red masses of mycelium. The disease is more common in fescues and grows best from 60 to 70 degrees F.
SNOW MOLD (Gerlachia nivalis and Typhula spp.) Grayish white patches up to 3 feet in diameter. Grass blades are collapsed and matted. Several different fungi are responsible for snow mold disease. Dead areas appear in the turf after the snow has melted.
PYTHIUM (Pythium spp.) Rounded sunken patches up to 1 foot in diameter. Leaves appear water-soaked and shiny at first, turning tan when dry. White mycelium grows over all leaf tissue, not just dead tissue as in dollar spot.
Result in a Ring in the Lawn
FAIRY RING (Marasmius oreades and others) Dark green ring with lighter green center, 2 ft to 100 ft in diameter. A mycelium starts in one spot and spreads in all directions. At certain times of the year, the fruiting bodies, mushrooms, may develop near the outer borders of the year’s growth of mycelium. The grass within the ring may appear to be healthy but later may collapse and die.
NECROTIC RING SPOT (Leptosphaeria korrae) 1–3 patches of red or purple leaves that bleach with water stress. Many patches grow greater than 12 inches in diameter with weeds or resistant grasses forming frog-eyes in the center of the ring.
SUMMER PATCH (Magnaporthe poae) Small tan or straw-colored spots appear on the leaves in early summer. These spots enlarge and coalesce until large areas of the lawn are killed. This disease is active only during the warmest part of the summer.
Affects Scattered Leaves
POWDERY MILDEW (Erysiphe graminis) Powdery mildew appears as dirty spots or blotches on the leaf sheaths, varying in color from light gray to brownish. It is especially prone to develop in wet weather and on poorly drained lawns. The infection spreads by the numerous white spores, which form on infected leaves.
LEAF SPOTS (also called Melting out, various organisms) Many grasses are affected by leaf spot diseases. General symptoms include tan or strawcolored spots on leaves usually bordered by a darker color. Black spore-producing structures may be seen in the center of the spots of some diseases.
RUST (Puccinia graminis var. agrostis) The disease appears as small, reddish spots on the leaves. Merion bluegrass, a special strain of Kentucky bluegrass, is very susceptible to this disease.
ANTHRACNOSE (Colletotrichum graminicola). This disease is common on creeping bentgrass and annual bluegrass. The fungus causes individual grass blades and/or plants to yellow and die when it invades crown and root tissue. Black, hairy, and spiny fruiting bodies are abundantly produced on dead tissue but may also be seen on green leaves as well.
Result in Dead Spots or Patches
BROWN PATCH (Rhizoctonia solani) Round patches of turf up to several feet in diameter appear watersoaked and eventually turn brown. Dark gray smoke ring is sometimes visible on lower mowed turf.
DOLLAR SPOT (Moellerodiscus spp. & Lanzia spp. or Sclerotinia homeocarpa) Rounded, straw-colored, slightly sunken patches up to 2 inches in diameter on bentgrass greens, 4–6 inches in diameter on other lawns. Spots have a reddish margin and expand until they girdle the leaf blade. Cottony mycelium may be evident in the morning growing over dead tissue.
RED THREAD (Laetisaria fuciformis) Pinkish patches from 3 to 15 inches in diameter develop during rainy weather. The grass in the patches is pink and dead and contains coral-red masses of mycelium. The disease is more common in fescues and grows best from 60 to 70 degrees F.
SNOW MOLD (Gerlachia nivalis and Typhula spp.) Grayish white patches up to 3 feet in diameter. Grass blades are collapsed and matted. Several different fungi are responsible for snow mold disease. Dead areas appear in the turf after the snow has melted.
PYTHIUM (Pythium spp.) Rounded sunken patches up to 1 foot in diameter. Leaves appear water-soaked and shiny at first, turning tan when dry. White mycelium grows over all leaf tissue, not just dead tissue as in dollar spot.
Result in a Ring in the Lawn
FAIRY RING (Marasmius oreades and others) Dark green ring with lighter green center, 2 ft to 100 ft in diameter. A mycelium starts in one spot and spreads in all directions. At certain times of the year, the fruiting bodies, mushrooms, may develop near the outer borders of the year’s growth of mycelium. The grass within the ring may appear to be healthy but later may collapse and die.
NECROTIC RING SPOT (Leptosphaeria korrae) 1–3 patches of red or purple leaves that bleach with water stress. Many patches grow greater than 12 inches in diameter with weeds or resistant grasses forming frog-eyes in the center of the ring.
SUMMER PATCH (Magnaporthe poae) Small tan or straw-colored spots appear on the leaves in early summer. These spots enlarge and coalesce until large areas of the lawn are killed. This disease is active only during the warmest part of the summer.
Affects Scattered Leaves
POWDERY MILDEW (Erysiphe graminis) Powdery mildew appears as dirty spots or blotches on the leaf sheaths, varying in color from light gray to brownish. It is especially prone to develop in wet weather and on poorly drained lawns. The infection spreads by the numerous white spores, which form on infected leaves.
LEAF SPOTS (also called Melting out, various organisms) Many grasses are affected by leaf spot diseases. General symptoms include tan or strawcolored spots on leaves usually bordered by a darker color. Black spore-producing structures may be seen in the center of the spots of some diseases.
RUST (Puccinia graminis var. agrostis) The disease appears as small, reddish spots on the leaves. Merion bluegrass, a special strain of Kentucky bluegrass, is very susceptible to this disease.
ANTHRACNOSE (Colletotrichum graminicola). This disease is common on creeping bentgrass and annual bluegrass. The fungus causes individual grass blades and/or plants to yellow and die when it invades crown and root tissue. Black, hairy, and spiny fruiting bodies are abundantly produced on dead tissue but may also be seen on green leaves as well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Fairy rings are caused by a diverse family of soil-inhabiting fungi called basidiomycetes. They typically appear as dark green circles in the lawn ranging in size from a few inches to 200 feet or more in diameter. Lush rings of turf are formed by the release of nutrients, in particular nitrogen, from the activity of the fungus living on organic matter in the soil. A circle of mushrooms usually develops around the edge of the infected area.
Fairy rings grow outward at the rate of 6 to 24 inches annually depending on grass, soil and weather conditions. They are most common on sandy soils that are low in water and fertility. Thick thatch layers also contribute to this problem.
Besides being unsightly, fairy rings can cause serious damage to lawns. Often the disease will produce a thick fungal mat that prevents water from reaching the grass roots below. Once the soil becomes dry it is very difficult to wet and the grass roots eventually die. The fungus may also deplete soil nutrients and, in some cases, will release a toxic by-product that can directly kill the turf within a ring.
Note: The name “fairy ring” comes from an old folk-tale. People once believed that the mushrooms appeared where fairies had danced the night before.
Treatment
Recommended products labeled for use against this fungal problem include:
Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Use 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and thoroughly soak the problem area, repeat as needed. One pint diluted treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this turfgrass disease.
Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
Keep lawns well watered.
Encourage beneficial soil microbes by top dressing with a humus builder such as well aged manure or finished compost.
Once the disease appears it is very difficult to eliminate — there is NO natural control.
Homeowners will often mask the problem, using fertilizers rich in nitrogen, rather than eradicate it.
Mushrooms can be removed by regular mowing or raking.
Most fungicides have NOT proven to be effective.
Your mantra should be; fertilize, water, aerate and mow.
Fairy rings grow outward at the rate of 6 to 24 inches annually depending on grass, soil and weather conditions. They are most common on sandy soils that are low in water and fertility. Thick thatch layers also contribute to this problem.
Besides being unsightly, fairy rings can cause serious damage to lawns. Often the disease will produce a thick fungal mat that prevents water from reaching the grass roots below. Once the soil becomes dry it is very difficult to wet and the grass roots eventually die. The fungus may also deplete soil nutrients and, in some cases, will release a toxic by-product that can directly kill the turf within a ring.
Note: The name “fairy ring” comes from an old folk-tale. People once believed that the mushrooms appeared where fairies had danced the night before.
Treatment
Recommended products labeled for use against this fungal problem include:
Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Use 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and thoroughly soak the problem area, repeat as needed. One pint diluted treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this turfgrass disease.
Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
Keep lawns well watered.
Encourage beneficial soil microbes by top dressing with a humus builder such as well aged manure or finished compost.
Once the disease appears it is very difficult to eliminate — there is NO natural control.
Homeowners will often mask the problem, using fertilizers rich in nitrogen, rather than eradicate it.
Mushrooms can be removed by regular mowing or raking.
Most fungicides have NOT proven to be effective.
Your mantra should be; fertilize, water, aerate and mow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Deodar cedar trees (Cedrus deodara) are not native to this country but they offer many of the advantages of native trees. Drought tolerant, fast-growing and relatively pest free, these conifers are graceful and attractive specimens for the lawn or backyard. If you are thinking of growing deodar cedar trees, you will find these evergreens perfect for specimens or soft hedges. Read on for more details about deodar cedar care.
Deodar Cedar Info
This airy evergreen cedar tree rises to 50 feet or more when cultivated, and much taller in the wild. It is native to Afghanistan, Pakistan and India, and thrives in the coastal regions of the United States.
Deodar cedar trees grow into a loose pyramid shape, with 2-inch long whorled needles that give the tree a soft allure. The branches extend almost horizontally, angling slightly down, and the tips rise slightly. Needles of the deodar cedar are a slivery-green, making it a very attractive and popular ornamental. The trees are either male or female. Males grow the pollen-filled catkins, while females produce the egg-shaped cones.
Growing Deodar Cedar
If you are growing deodar cedar, you’ll want to find out how to care for a deodar cedar tree. First, you need to live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9 and have plenty of space. These trees are most beautiful when they keep their lower branches, so it is best to plant them somewhere they will not be disturbed. Deodar cedar info will help you plant these trees in an appropriate site for their growing requirements. Find a sunny site with slightly acidic, well-drained soil. The tree also grows in partial shade and accepts sandy, loamy or clay soils. It even tolerates alkaline soil.
How to Care for a Deodar Cedar Tree
Deodar cedar care for a properly planted tree will not take much of your time and energy. Deodar cedar trees are very drought resistant, so if your area gets occasional rainfall, you may not need to irrigate. Otherwise, provide moderate amounts of water in dry weather. These trees live for a long time with few, if any, pest issues. They require no pruning, other than removing broken or dead branches, and provide maintenance free shade and beauty in your garden.
Deodar Cedar Info
This airy evergreen cedar tree rises to 50 feet or more when cultivated, and much taller in the wild. It is native to Afghanistan, Pakistan and India, and thrives in the coastal regions of the United States.
Deodar cedar trees grow into a loose pyramid shape, with 2-inch long whorled needles that give the tree a soft allure. The branches extend almost horizontally, angling slightly down, and the tips rise slightly. Needles of the deodar cedar are a slivery-green, making it a very attractive and popular ornamental. The trees are either male or female. Males grow the pollen-filled catkins, while females produce the egg-shaped cones.
Growing Deodar Cedar
If you are growing deodar cedar, you’ll want to find out how to care for a deodar cedar tree. First, you need to live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9 and have plenty of space. These trees are most beautiful when they keep their lower branches, so it is best to plant them somewhere they will not be disturbed. Deodar cedar info will help you plant these trees in an appropriate site for their growing requirements. Find a sunny site with slightly acidic, well-drained soil. The tree also grows in partial shade and accepts sandy, loamy or clay soils. It even tolerates alkaline soil.
How to Care for a Deodar Cedar Tree
Deodar cedar care for a properly planted tree will not take much of your time and energy. Deodar cedar trees are very drought resistant, so if your area gets occasional rainfall, you may not need to irrigate. Otherwise, provide moderate amounts of water in dry weather. These trees live for a long time with few, if any, pest issues. They require no pruning, other than removing broken or dead branches, and provide maintenance free shade and beauty in your garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Is monkey grass invading areas of your lawn and garden? Do you find yourself asking, “How do I kill monkey grass?” You’re not alone. Many people share these concerns, but don’t worry. There are things you can try to rid this intruder from your landscape. Keep reading to find out how to get rid of monkey grass.
Ridding the Garden of Monkey Grass
Monkey grass is normally a favorite addition among gardeners, as it is extremely easy to grow and care for. But it’s also the plant’s hardiness and carefree nature that can result in its invasiveness, as the eagerly growing monkey grass begins to turn up in unwanted areas of the landscape. That’s when monkey grass control becomes necessary.
How to Get Rid of Monkey Grass
Removing monkey grass can be difficult but not impossible. There’s really no single best way to remove monkey grass. Rather, you need to find the method of monkey grass control that works best for you and your particular circumstance. That said, here are some ideas for ridding the garden of monkey grass: Dig it up – Digging up unwanted plants is the easiest way of removing monkey grass, but it may also be the most time consuming depending on how much you have. You should dig up clumps and surrounding soil to ensure that you get out as much of the root system as possible. Once it’s dug up, carefully check for any stragglers. You can treat the area (along with freshly cut roots) with Round-up as well to prevent further growth. Keep in mind though that this could take more than one application depending on how much root growth was missed.
Contain it – You can install some type of barrier of edging to keep monkey grass roots under control, minimizing its spread. These should be at least 12 to 18 inches down for best results. This can be done at the time of planting or during summer growth. When combined with digging, you’ll have a better chance of ridding the garden of monkey grass. For example, after removing monkey grass clumps, you can cover the area with plastic or landscape fabric. This should help suffocate any remaining roots or rhizomes in the ground. Call for backup – When all else fails, it’s time to call in a professional to help you get rid of monkey grass. Professional landscapers or gardeners can usually do all the dirty work for you, putting their knowledge to work as well. They can normally provide any additional tips you may need once the grass has been removed should any “jumpers” crop up.
Knowing how to get rid of monkey grass is a matter of having patience and choosing the method of removal that works best for you. With vigilance and time, your monkey grass control efforts will eventually pay off.
Ridding the Garden of Monkey Grass
Monkey grass is normally a favorite addition among gardeners, as it is extremely easy to grow and care for. But it’s also the plant’s hardiness and carefree nature that can result in its invasiveness, as the eagerly growing monkey grass begins to turn up in unwanted areas of the landscape. That’s when monkey grass control becomes necessary.
How to Get Rid of Monkey Grass
Removing monkey grass can be difficult but not impossible. There’s really no single best way to remove monkey grass. Rather, you need to find the method of monkey grass control that works best for you and your particular circumstance. That said, here are some ideas for ridding the garden of monkey grass: Dig it up – Digging up unwanted plants is the easiest way of removing monkey grass, but it may also be the most time consuming depending on how much you have. You should dig up clumps and surrounding soil to ensure that you get out as much of the root system as possible. Once it’s dug up, carefully check for any stragglers. You can treat the area (along with freshly cut roots) with Round-up as well to prevent further growth. Keep in mind though that this could take more than one application depending on how much root growth was missed.
Contain it – You can install some type of barrier of edging to keep monkey grass roots under control, minimizing its spread. These should be at least 12 to 18 inches down for best results. This can be done at the time of planting or during summer growth. When combined with digging, you’ll have a better chance of ridding the garden of monkey grass. For example, after removing monkey grass clumps, you can cover the area with plastic or landscape fabric. This should help suffocate any remaining roots or rhizomes in the ground. Call for backup – When all else fails, it’s time to call in a professional to help you get rid of monkey grass. Professional landscapers or gardeners can usually do all the dirty work for you, putting their knowledge to work as well. They can normally provide any additional tips you may need once the grass has been removed should any “jumpers” crop up.
Knowing how to get rid of monkey grass is a matter of having patience and choosing the method of removal that works best for you. With vigilance and time, your monkey grass control efforts will eventually pay off.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
With so many ground covers to choose from, picking one that serves all your needs can sometimes be tricky, especially when it comes to trouble spots in the lawn. However, there’s one ground cover that literally ‘covers’ it all. From problem areas to attractive edging, monkey grass is an easy-care, low-maintenance ground cover that offers homeowners countless possibilities for use in the lawn and surrounding landscape.
Why Choose Monkey Grass?
So what do these Asian natives provide that most other ground covers may not? For starters, monkey grass is easy to care for, it’s heat and drought tolerant, and it’s extremely hardy, growing in many types of soil and surviving under numerous conditions. This thick ground cover resists weed invasions, is rarely affected by pests and diseases, requires little or no fertilizing and performs effectively wherever it’s needed. All that’s required is finding the right one to fit your individual needs. For instance, some types of monkey grass creep and spread along, while others are clump forming. Some varieties of monkey grass enjoy sun, while others do well in shaded areas.
Types of Monkey Grass
Monkey grass has many common names including lily turf, liriope, mondo grass, and snakesbeard. There are many varieties of monkey grass, all of which belong to one of two genuses: Liriope or Ophiopogon. Monkey grass usually ranges in height from 10 to 15 inches but taller, shrub-like forms are also available and widely used for foundation plantings. Most types are evergreen, providing year-round interest. Money grass also produces spiky summer blooms followed by attractive berries in the fall. For additional interest, there are variegated varieties too.
The most commonly used variety of monkey grass is Liriope muscari. This clumping form is often used as edging for beds, borders and walkways. Most of these produce lovely purple-spiked blooms and dark purple berries; however, there is also a white-flowering variety as well. L. spicata, commonly called creeping liriope, does well in trouble areas of the lawn, such as slopes. As this form can be an aggressive spreader, it should not be used in small garden beds, as it could choke out other plantings. However, in larger garden beds, creeping liriope will effectively fill in empty spaces while adding foliage interest to the garden.
Ophiopogon japonicus, often referred to as mondo grass, is another popular form of monkey grass, and are generally considered smaller versions. This type has fine, darker colored foliage and works well in settings that are more formal. This variety also tends to perform better in shadier areas as opposed to full sun. Heights vary from two to twelve inches, depending on the particular species. Dwarf mondo grass (O. japonicus ‘Gyoku Ryu’) is great for use along paths and in between pavers or stepping stones. If you’re looking for something different or perhaps more dramatic, consider nearly black foliage of black mondo grass (O. planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’).
Caring for Monkey Grass
All forms of monkey grass can be easily lifted, divided and transplanted whenever needed. As with most plants, monkey grass requires good drainage for best results. The brownish foliage of monkey grass should be cut back prior to new growth, usually in late February or early March. Cutting back this foliage not only promotes new growth but also helps to rejuvenate the plants. Monkey grass is a great ground cover for the lawn, growing in areas where most turf grasses won’t, such as beneath trees or along steep slopes. It can even be used as a low-maintenance lawn substitute. Monkey grass looks great mixed with other foliage plants and flowers and can be successfully grown in containers.
It’s a common landscaping feature in the South but is so versatile that it can grow nearly anywhere. With so many possibilities, monkey grass is truly an exceptional choice for attractive ground coverage in the lawn and surrounding landscape.
Why Choose Monkey Grass?
So what do these Asian natives provide that most other ground covers may not? For starters, monkey grass is easy to care for, it’s heat and drought tolerant, and it’s extremely hardy, growing in many types of soil and surviving under numerous conditions. This thick ground cover resists weed invasions, is rarely affected by pests and diseases, requires little or no fertilizing and performs effectively wherever it’s needed. All that’s required is finding the right one to fit your individual needs. For instance, some types of monkey grass creep and spread along, while others are clump forming. Some varieties of monkey grass enjoy sun, while others do well in shaded areas.
Types of Monkey Grass
Monkey grass has many common names including lily turf, liriope, mondo grass, and snakesbeard. There are many varieties of monkey grass, all of which belong to one of two genuses: Liriope or Ophiopogon. Monkey grass usually ranges in height from 10 to 15 inches but taller, shrub-like forms are also available and widely used for foundation plantings. Most types are evergreen, providing year-round interest. Money grass also produces spiky summer blooms followed by attractive berries in the fall. For additional interest, there are variegated varieties too.
The most commonly used variety of monkey grass is Liriope muscari. This clumping form is often used as edging for beds, borders and walkways. Most of these produce lovely purple-spiked blooms and dark purple berries; however, there is also a white-flowering variety as well. L. spicata, commonly called creeping liriope, does well in trouble areas of the lawn, such as slopes. As this form can be an aggressive spreader, it should not be used in small garden beds, as it could choke out other plantings. However, in larger garden beds, creeping liriope will effectively fill in empty spaces while adding foliage interest to the garden.
Ophiopogon japonicus, often referred to as mondo grass, is another popular form of monkey grass, and are generally considered smaller versions. This type has fine, darker colored foliage and works well in settings that are more formal. This variety also tends to perform better in shadier areas as opposed to full sun. Heights vary from two to twelve inches, depending on the particular species. Dwarf mondo grass (O. japonicus ‘Gyoku Ryu’) is great for use along paths and in between pavers or stepping stones. If you’re looking for something different or perhaps more dramatic, consider nearly black foliage of black mondo grass (O. planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’).
Caring for Monkey Grass
All forms of monkey grass can be easily lifted, divided and transplanted whenever needed. As with most plants, monkey grass requires good drainage for best results. The brownish foliage of monkey grass should be cut back prior to new growth, usually in late February or early March. Cutting back this foliage not only promotes new growth but also helps to rejuvenate the plants. Monkey grass is a great ground cover for the lawn, growing in areas where most turf grasses won’t, such as beneath trees or along steep slopes. It can even be used as a low-maintenance lawn substitute. Monkey grass looks great mixed with other foliage plants and flowers and can be successfully grown in containers.
It’s a common landscaping feature in the South but is so versatile that it can grow nearly anywhere. With so many possibilities, monkey grass is truly an exceptional choice for attractive ground coverage in the lawn and surrounding landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
In some places dichondra, a low growing plant and member of the morning glory family, is seen as a weed. In other places, however, it is valued as an attractive ground cover or even a substitute for a small lawn area. Let’s find out more about how to grow dichondra ground cover.
Dichondra Plant Info
Dichondra (Dichondra repens) is a perennial ground cover plant (in USDA zones 7-11) that has a somewhat upright, creeping habit with circular leaves. It is not usually over 2 inches in height and retains its bright green color in temperatures as low as 25 F. (-3 C.). When this ground cover becomes full, it appears as a dense carpet-like grass and is often planted in places where other turf-type grass does not grow well.
Silver dichondra is a green-silver annual ground cover that is often used in hanging baskets and pots. The cascading habit also makes this attractive plant perfect for rock walls or window boxes. This low maintenance plant with fan-shaped foliage, does well in full sun, requires only minimal care and is drought resistant.
How to Grow Dichondra
Proper preparation of the seedbed is essential to growing dichondra plants. A weed-free raked area is best. Dichondra prefers loose, clod-free and well-drained soil in partial shade to full sun. Seed should be lightly scattered over the loosened soil bed and watered until wet but not soggy. Depending on how sunny the planting area is, seeds may need to be watered a few times a day until they begin to sprout. Covering the seeds with a light layer of peat moss helps with moisture retention.
It is best to plant seed when the temperatures are in the 70’s (21 C.) during the day and the 50’s (10 C.) at night. This can be in either early spring or even early fall. The growing dichondra seeds will sprout within 7 to 14 days depending on conditions.
Dichondra Care
Once plants are established, a deep and infrequent watering is necessary. It is best to allow the plants to dry out slightly between watering. If using as a lawn alternative, the dichondra can be mowed to a suitable height. Most people find that mowing to around 1 ½ inches in the summer is best and requires cutting every two weeks. Provide ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per month during the growing season for a healthy cover.
Apply a pre-emergent weed control on the ground cover to keep weeds at bay. Never use an herbicide containing 2-4D on dichondra plants, as they will die. Remove broadleaf weeds by hand for best results.
Dichondra Plant Info
Dichondra (Dichondra repens) is a perennial ground cover plant (in USDA zones 7-11) that has a somewhat upright, creeping habit with circular leaves. It is not usually over 2 inches in height and retains its bright green color in temperatures as low as 25 F. (-3 C.). When this ground cover becomes full, it appears as a dense carpet-like grass and is often planted in places where other turf-type grass does not grow well.
Silver dichondra is a green-silver annual ground cover that is often used in hanging baskets and pots. The cascading habit also makes this attractive plant perfect for rock walls or window boxes. This low maintenance plant with fan-shaped foliage, does well in full sun, requires only minimal care and is drought resistant.
How to Grow Dichondra
Proper preparation of the seedbed is essential to growing dichondra plants. A weed-free raked area is best. Dichondra prefers loose, clod-free and well-drained soil in partial shade to full sun. Seed should be lightly scattered over the loosened soil bed and watered until wet but not soggy. Depending on how sunny the planting area is, seeds may need to be watered a few times a day until they begin to sprout. Covering the seeds with a light layer of peat moss helps with moisture retention.
It is best to plant seed when the temperatures are in the 70’s (21 C.) during the day and the 50’s (10 C.) at night. This can be in either early spring or even early fall. The growing dichondra seeds will sprout within 7 to 14 days depending on conditions.
Dichondra Care
Once plants are established, a deep and infrequent watering is necessary. It is best to allow the plants to dry out slightly between watering. If using as a lawn alternative, the dichondra can be mowed to a suitable height. Most people find that mowing to around 1 ½ inches in the summer is best and requires cutting every two weeks. Provide ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen per month during the growing season for a healthy cover.
Apply a pre-emergent weed control on the ground cover to keep weeds at bay. Never use an herbicide containing 2-4D on dichondra plants, as they will die. Remove broadleaf weeds by hand for best results.
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